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IndexAAbbaye St-Benoît-du-Lac
(Eastern Townships) 205accommodations 15, 208-
20, see also Sleeping subindex
Downtown 213-16language 260-1Old Montréal 210-13Plateau Mont-Royal
218-20Quartier Latin & the
Village 216-18activities, see Sports &
Activities subindexAéroport International
Jean-Lesage de Québec (Québec City) 251
Aldred Building 53ambulance 256American Revolution 204,
224, 245Aquarium du Québec
(Québec City) 171Arcade Fire 236Arcand, Denys 240architecture 18-19, 242-4art galleries 20, see also
museumsFonderie Darling 26, 54Galeries d’Art
Contemporain du Belgo 94
Musée d’Art Contemporain 26, 81
Musée d’Art Contempo-rain des Laurentides (the Laurentians) 203
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal 13, 26, 80, 7, 80, 88
Artillery Park (Québec City) 158
arts 236-41arts (Québec City) 246-8Ascenseur du Faubourg
(Québec City) 169ATMs 257Ave Châteaubriand 113Ave du Mont-Royal 112Ave Monkland 144
Bbabysitting 24Back, Frédéric 102bagels 133Bank of Montréal 53bars 35, see also Drinking &
Nightlife subindexBasilique Notre-Dame 52,
9, 52Basilique Ste-Anne-de-
Beaupré (Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré) 196
Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Québec (Québec City) 159
B&Bs 213beer 22, 66Bell Centre 97Belvédère Camillien-Houde
113Bibliothèque et Archives
Nationale du Québec 101bicycle travel, see cyclingBiennale de Montréal 21Bill 101 233Biodôme 24, 145, 148Biondi, Fabien 112Biosphère 24Bixi 13, 91, 252Black & Blue Festival 23books 222, 227, 230Boulevard St-Laurent
112, 123Bourassa, Robert 227budgeting 14, 26, 31, 35,
209bus travel
to Montréal 250-1
to Quebec City 252within Montréal 252within Quebec City 253
business hours 31, 35, 45, 255
CCabane à Sucre Au Pied du
Cochon 202Cabane à Sucre Bouvrette
202Cabane à Sucre Millette 202cafes 18, 35calèche 253-4calèche (Québec City)
190, 253Canadian Pacific Telegraph
Chambers 58Canadiens de Montréal
(NHL) 24, 25, 97Canal de Lachine 25, 96,
143, 96, 11, 149car travel 205, 252-3, 253-4Carré St-Louis 112-13Carrier, Roch 241Cartier, Jacques 224, 245Cathedral of the Holy Trinity
(Québec City) 159Cathédrale de l’Assomption
(Trois-Rivières) 200Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-
Monde 81cathedrals, see churchescell phones 14, 258Centre Canadien
d’Architecture 81, 89Centre des Sciences de
Montréal 24Centre d’Histoire de
Montréal 54Centre d’Interprétation de
Place-Royale (Québec City) 163
Chalet du Mont-Royal 113chanson 238-9Chapelle du Sacré Coeur 52Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-
Bonsecours 54, 56
Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes 101
Charest, Jean 222, 229, 232Charlottetown Accord 228Château Dufresne 146Château Frontenac (Québec
City) 156, 27, 156, 184Château Ramezay 53-4Chemin des Cantons
(Eastern Townships) 205chemists 257children, travel with 24Chinatown 50, 64-5Christ Church Cathedral 82Church of St James the
Apostle 84churches
Basilique Notre-Dame 52, 9, 52
Basilique Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré (Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré) 196
Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Québec (Québec City) 159
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Québec City) 159
Cathédrale de l’Assomption (Trois-Rivières) 200
Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde 81
Chapelle du Sacré Coeur 52
Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours 54, 56
Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes 101
Christ Church Cathe-dral 82
Church of St James the Apostle 84
Église Madonna Della Difesa 129
Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (Québec City) 163-4
Église St-Jean-Baptiste 112
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
See also separate subindexes for:
5 EATING P273
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P274
3 ENTERTAINMENT P275
7 SHOPPING P275
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P276
4 SLEEPING P276
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
269269Église St-Jean-Baptiste
(Québec City) 164Église St-Michel et St-
Antoine 129Église St-Pierre-Apôtre
101Église St-Roch (Québec
City) 169-71Église St-Viateur
d’Outremont 129Emmanuel Congregation
Church 85Oratoire St-Joseph 26,
142, 143St James United Church
84St Patrick’s Basilica 84
Churchill, Winston 226Cimetière Mont-Royal 115Cimetière Notre-Dame-
des-Neiges 115, 125cinema 39Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve 76Cirque du Soleil 24, 67, 144,
241, 239Cirque du Soleil (Québec
City) 183Cité-du-Havre 76classical music 237climate 15clubbing 35-6, see also
Drinking & Nightlife subindex
Cohen, Leonard 231, 238Colline Parlementaire
(Québec City) 164-6Confederation, Canadian
224, 225Conservative Party 228Cosmodôme 24, 147costs 14, 31, 35, 209Côte-des-Neiges 144Cours Le Royer 55courses 255Croix du Mont-Royal 115cruises 253culture 223, 232-5culture (Québec City)
245-8currency 14currency exchange 257customs regulations 255cycling 20
Eastern Townships 205Quebec City 253rental (Bixi) 13, 91, 252
Ddance 40, 240dangers 258
de Champlain, Samuel 167, 245
de Maisonneuve, Paul de Chomedey 224
Dion, Céline 236disabilities, travelers with
251, 259Divers/cité 23Downtown 49, 78-97, 284-
5, 288-9accommodations 213-16drinking & nightlife
79, 90-1entertainment 79, 91-3food 79, 85-7highlights 78, 80, 78shopping 93-7sights 80, 81-5sports & activities 97transport 79walks 83, 96, 83, 96
Drapeau, Jean 226, 228drinking & nightlife 34-7,
see also individual neighborhoods, Drink-ing & Nightlife subindex
driving, see car travelDuplessis, Maurice 167, 225d’Youville, Marguerite 55
EEastern Townships 204-7Écomusée du Fier Monde
101economy 223Édifice Ernest Cormier 58Église Madonna Della
Difesa 129Église Notre-Dame-des-
Victoires (Québec City) 163-4
Église St-Jean-Baptiste 112Église St-Jean-Baptiste
(Québec City) 164Église St-Michel et St-
Antoine 129Église St-Pierre-Apôtre 101Église St-Roch (Québec
City) 169-71Église St-Viateur
d’Outremont 129electricity 256emergencies 256, 262Emmanuel Congregation
Church 85En Prison (Trois-Rivières)
200entertainment 38-41,
see also individual neighborhoods, Enter-tainment subindex
Espace 400 (Québec City) 164
Expo ’67 75, 226, 243
Ffashion 42-3, 44, 234-5Fennario, David 240Ferguson, Maynard 237Ferron, Marcelle 102Festival du Nouveau
Cinéma de Montréal 23Festival International de
Jazz de Montréal 23, 238, 8, 22, 37
Festival International des Musiques Sacrées de Québec (Québec City) 171
festivals 13, 19, 42-3festivals (Québec City) 248Fête Arc-en-Ciel (Québec
City) 181film festivals 39-40films 39, 222, 239films (Québec City) 247fire 256FLQ (Front de Libération
du Québec) 229folk music 238Fonderie Darling 26, 54food 25, 30-3, see also in-
dividual neighbor-hoods, Eating subindex
costs 31, 209courses 255festivals 42-3language 119, 261-2, 264opening hours 31tipping 31websites 31
Fortifications of Québec (Québec City) 158
Fortin, Marc-Aurèle 241free attractions 26Frelighsburg (Eastern
Townships) 206French language 233-4,
248, 260-4Front de Libération du
Québec 229Fur Trade at Lachine
National Historic Site 143
Ggardens, see also parks
Governor’s Garden 54Jardin Botanique 144-5,
149Jardin des Floralies 76
Jardin des Gouverneurs (Québec City) 158
Morgan Arboretum 147Gare Windsor 82gay travelers 256
accommodations 215drinking & nightlife
(Québec City) 181festivals 23
George-Étienne Cartier monument 115
Gillis, Margaret 240Governor’s Garden 54Granby Zoo (Eastern Town-
ships) 206Grand Prix du Canada
22, 77Grey Nuns 55Grimes 236Guardian Trust Building 53
HHabitat 67 76, 243history 224-31
early settlement 224 industry &
immigration 225modernisation 226-7postreferendum
Montréal 228-31separatist
movement 227-8war, depression &
nationalism 225-6history (Québec City)
245-6hockey 24, 25hockey (Québec City) 191holidays 258Holocaust Memorial Centre
144horse-drawn carriages
(calèche) 190, 253-4Hôtel de Ville 55, 57Hôtel du Parlement
(Québec City) 166-8Houde, Camilien 228Hutchinson, AC 243
IIacurto, Francesco 246ice architecture 243ice hockey, see hockeyice hotels (Québec City)
196ice storm (1998) 229, 230ice wine 206Île d’Orléans 196Île Notre-Dame 76Île Ste-Hélène 75-6
INDEX E-I
270270Illuminated Crowd 84infrastructure 222-3Insectarium 24, 145insurance, health 257internet access 256-7Irish immigrants 227Iroquois people 224, 245itineraries 16-17
JJardin Botanique 144-5,
149Jardin des Floralies 76Jardin des Gouverneurs
(Québec City) 158jazz 38, 237, see also
Festival International de Jazz de Montréal
Jones, Oliver 237Just for Laughs festival
23, 22
KKrall, Diana 237Krieghoff, Cornelius 246
LLa Citadelle (Québec City)
155, 155La Domaine Joly de Lot-
binière (Ste-Croix) 200La Fête des Neiges 21La Maison Henry-Stuart
(Québec City) 167La Palme, Robert 102La Ronde 24, 75-6Lac Brome (Eastern
Townships) 206Lac des Castors 113, 122Laferrière, Dany 241Laliberté, Guy 241language 14, 233-4, 248,
260-4courses 255food 119
Laporte, Pierre 229Laurentians, the 201-4Le Château 84-5Lee, Ranee 237legal matters 257Lemieux, Jean-Paul 246Lepage, Robert 248Les Colocs 236
Les Halles du Petit Quartier (Québec City) 189
Lesage, Jean 229lesbian travelers 256
accommodations215
drinking & nightlife (Québec City) 181
festivals 23Lévesque, René 227Lewis Building 58Liberal Party 226Librairie Olivieri 145Lieu Historique de Sir
George-Étienne-Cartier 55
L’International des Feux Loto-Québec 23, 75
literature 240Little Italy 127-39, 296-7
drinking & nightlife 128, 136-7
food 128, 129-36highlights 127, 127shopping 128, 137-9sights 129sports & activities 139transport 128
live music 19, 38, 42-3local life 25, see also indi-
vidual neighborhoodsLoco Locass 247Lost Fingers 236
MMaison Alcan 85Maison Drouin (Île
d’Orléans) 196Maison Smith 113-14Maison St-Gabriel 143maple syrup 138, see
also sugar shacksmaps 257Marché Atwater 82,
109, 88Marché Bonsecours 55, 70Marché Côtes-des-Neiges
145Marché de Maisonneuve
109Marché Jean-Talon 109,
129, 12, 135Marché St-Jacques 109markets 20
Marché Atwater 82, 109, 88
Marché Bonsecours 55, 70
Marché Côtes-des-Neiges 145
Marché de Maisonneuve 109
Marché Jean-Talon 109, 129, 12, 135
Marché St-Jacques 109Québec City 189
McGill University 82measures 256media 234medical services 257Meech Lake Accord 228melons 77metro 102, 252Mile End 127-39, 296-7
drinking & nightlife 128, 136-7
food 128, 129-36highlights 127, 127shopping 128, 137-9sights 129transport 128walks 130, 130
mobile phones 14, 258Molson Bank Building 53money 14, 31, 35, 209,
255-6Montcalm (Québec City)
164-6Montréal Beer Festival 22Montréal en Lumière 21Montréal International
Dragon Boat Race Festival 77
Montréal Stock Exchange Building 58
Montréal World Film Festival 23
Mont-Tremblant (the Laurentians) 202
Monument Maisonneuve53
Morgan Arboretum 147Morin, Frédéric 151motorcycle travel 205,
252-3, 253-4Moulin Fleming 143Mousseau, Jean-Paul 102MS Jacques-Cartier
(Trois-Rivières) 200Mulroney, Brian 228Musée d’Archéologie et
d’Histoire Pointe-à-Callière 54
Musée d’Art Contemporain 26, 81
Musée d’Art Contemporain des Laurentides (the Laurentians) 203
Musée de la Civilisation (Québec City) 163
Musée de Lachine 26, 143
Musée De L’Amérique Française (Québec City) 159
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal 13, 26, 80, 7, 80, 88
Musée des Soeurs-Grises 26, 58
Musée des Ursulines (Québec City) 159
Musée du Fort (Québec City) 159-63
Musée Ferroviaire Canadien 24
Musée Marguerite-Bourgeoys 54
Musée McCord 81Musée National des
Beaux-Arts du Québec (Québec City) 166
Musée Québécois de Culture Populair (Trois-Rivières) 199-200
Musée Redpath 26, 81Musée Stewart 24museums 19, see also art
galleriesBiosphère 24Centre Canadien
d’Architecture 81, 89Centre des Sciences de
Montréal 24Centre d’Histoire de
Montréal 54Centre d’Interprétation
de Place-Royale (Québec City) 163
Château Ramezay 53-4Cinémathèque
Québécoise 26, 108Cosmodôme 24, 147Écomusée du Fier
Monde 101Fur Trade at Lachine
National Historic Site 143
Holocaust Memorial Centre 144
La Domaine Joly de Lotbinière (Ste-Croix) 200
Lieu Historique de Sir George-Étienne-Cartier 55
Maison St-Gabriel 143Moulin Fleming 143Musée d’Archéologie et
d’Histoire Pointe-à-Callière 54
Musée de la Civilisation (Québec City) 163
Musée de Lachine 26, 143
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
INDEX I-M
271271Musée De L’Amérique
Française (Québec City) 159
Musée des Soeurs Grises 26, 58
Musée des Ursulines (Québec City) 159
Musée du Fort (Québec City) 159-63
Musée Ferroviaire Canadien 24
Musée Marguerite-Bourgeoys 54
Musée McCord 81Musée National des
Beaux-Arts du Québec (Québec City) 166
Musée Québécois de Culture Populair (Trois-Rivières) 199-200
Musée Redpath 26, 81Musée Stewart 24Ursuline Museum (Trois-
Rivières) 200music 75, 236-41, 247, see
also individual styles
NNelligan, Émile 63New York Life Insurance
Building 53newspapers 234nightclubs 35-6nightlife, see drinking &
nightlifeNordiques (NHL) 191North Hatley (Eastern
Townships) 205Notre-Dame-de-Grâce 144Nunavik Information
Centre (Québec City) 169
OObservatoire de la Capitale
(Québec City) 167Old Customs House 58Old Lower Town (Québec
City) 163-4Old Montréal 48, 50-72,
280-1, 6-7accommodations 210-13drinking & nightlife
51, 65-7entertainment 67-70food 51, 61-5highlights 50, 52, 50shopping 70-1sights 52, 53-61sports & activities 71-2
transport 51walks 59, 59
Old Port 24, 60-1, 11Old Upper Town (Québec
City) 158-63Olivier, Anne-Marie 248Olmsted, Frederick Law 113Olympic Park 144, 226Olympic Stadium 145-6opening hours 31, 35,
45, 255opera 237Oratoire St-Joseph 26,
142, 143Orford Arts Centre (East-
ern Townships) 205Orford Festival (Eastern
Townships) 205Osheaga Festival Musique
et Arts 23, 75Outer Montréal 49, 140-53
drinking & nightlife 150entertainment 150-1food 141, 150highlights 140, 142, 140sights 142, 144-7sports & activities 141,
151-3transport 141
Outremont 127-39, 296-7drinking & nightlife 128,
136-7entertainment 137food 128, 129-36highlights 127, 127shopping 128, 137-9sights 129transport 128walks 130, 130
Ppainting 241Palais de Justice 58Palais des Congrès 58-60Parc de la Chute
Montmorency 196Parc de la Cité-du-Havre
60Parc de la Gorge de
Coaticook (Eastern Townships) 205
Parc des Champs de Bataille (Québec City) 164-6
Parc des Écluses 60Parc des Rapides 143Parc du Bassin Bonse-
cours 60Parc du Bois-de-Coulonge
(Québec City) 171
Parc du Mont-Royal 24, 25, 8, 68, 123
sights 113-15walks 117, 117
Parc du Portugal 113Parc Jean-Drapeau 48-9,
73-7, 296, 12, 68entertainment 76food 76highlights 73, 73sights 75-6sports & activities 76-7transport 74
Parc La Fontaine 112, 18Parc Maritime de St-
Laurent (Île d’Orléans) 196
Parc National du Mont-Orford (Eastern Town-ships) 205
Parc National du Mont-Tremblant (the Laurentians) 201-2
Parc Nature du Cap-St-Jacques 24
Parc Outremont 129, 68, 134
parking (Québec City) 195parks 20, see also gardens
Parc de la Chute Montmorency 196
Parc de la Cité-du-Havre 60
Parc de la Gorge de Coaticook (Eastern Townships) 205
Parc des Champs de Bataille (Québec City) 164-6
Parc des Écluses 60Parc des Rapides 143Parc du Bassin Bonse-
cours 60Parc du Bois-de-
Coulonge (Québec City) 171
Parc du Mont-Royal 24, 25, 113-15, 117, 117, 8, 68, 123
Parc du Portugal 113Parc Jean-Drapeau 48-9,
73-7, 286, 12, 68Parc La Fontaine 112, 18Parc Maritime de St-
Laurent (Île d’Orléans) 196
Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier (Québec City) 191
Parc National du Mont-Orford (Eastern Townships) 205
Parc National du Mont-Tremblant (the Laurentians) 201-2
Parc Nature du Cap-St-Jacques 24
Parc Outremont 129, 68, 134
Place du Canada 82Parti Québécois 227,
228, 231Pavilion du Bassin
Bonsecours 60Pellan, Alfred 246Peterson, Oscar 237pharmacies 257Pierre Elliott Trudeau
Airport 13, 250Piknic Électronik 75Place des Arts 81-2, 22Place du Canada 82Place d’Youville 60Place Jacques-Cartier 54-5Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle
58Place Royale 58Place Vauquelin 55Place Ville-Marie 85Place-d’Armes 13, 53Place-Royale (Québec City)
163, 247Plains of Abraham (Québec
City) 164-6planning
budgeting 14, 26, 31, 35, 209
children, travel with 24drinking & nightlife 35entertainment 39festivals 43food 31itineraries 16-17local life 25Montréal & Quebec City
basics 14Montréal’s
neighborhoods 48-9, 48-9
repeat visitors 13travel seasons 15websites 14, 15
Plateau Mont-Royal 49, 110-26, 292-3
accommodations 218-20drinking & nightlife 111,
119-24entertainment 111, 124-5food 111, 115-19highlights 110, 110shopping 125-6sights 112-15
INDEX M
-P
272272Plateau Mont-Royal
continuedsports & activities 126transport 111walks 114, 117, 114, 117
police 256politics 222, 232-3population 223postal services 257poutine 120Promenade du Vieux-Port
61, 56protests (2012) 222, 232-5Proulx, Maurice 239public holidays 258
QQuai Alexandra 60Quai Jacques-Cartier
60, 56Quartier Latin 49, 98-109,
290-1accommodations 216-18drinking & nightlife 99,
104-5entertainment 99, 108food 101-4highlights 98, 100, 98shopping 99, 108-9sights 100, 101transport 99walks 103, 103
Québec City 154-97, 160-1, 168-9
accommodations 192-7drinking & nightlife
180-2entertainment 182-7food 171-80highlights 154, 155, 156shopping 187-9sights 155, 156, 158-71sports & activities
189-92tours 167transport 157-8walks 165, 165
Quiet Revolution 227, 228, 229
Rradio stations 234rental accommodations
211
reservations 31Richler, Mordecai 240Riopelle, Jean-Paul 241river cruises 253rock music 236Route des Vins (Eastern
Townships) 205Routhier, Sir Adolphe
164-6Royal Bank Building 53Rue de la Commune 60-1Rue de l’Hôpital 58Rue Sherbrooke Ouest
82, 89Rue St-Denis 100, 112, 10,
100, 106Rue Ste-Catherine Est
101, 107Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest
84Rue St-Jacques 53Rue St-Paul 58
SSafdie, Moshe 243, 244safety 258Sailors’ Memorial Clock
Tower 61-2secession 228separatist movement
228-31, 233Seven Years’ War 224Shatner, William 238Shaughnessy House 81Sherbrooke (Eastern
Townships) 206Shoofey, Frank 152shopping 44-5, see
also individual neigh-borhoods, Shopping subindex
smoking 256Southwest Montréal 49,
140-53entertainment 150-1food 141, 150highlights 140, 140sights 143sports & activities 141,
151-3transport 141
spoken word 40sports 235, 235, see also
hockeySquare Dorchester 82Square Victoria 58squares
Carré St-Louis 112-13Cours Le Royer 55Place d’Youville 60
Place Jacques-Cartier 54-5
Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle 58
Place Royale 58Place Ville-Marie 85Place-d’Armes 13, 53Place-Royale (Québec
City) 163, 247Square Dorchester 82Square Victoria 58Westmount Square 94
St James United Church 84St Lawrence River 225St Patrick’s Basilica 84Stadacona 245St-Cyr, Lili 226Ste-Adéle (the Lauren-
tians) 203Ste-Agathe-des-Monts (the
Laurentians) 202Ste-Foy-Sillery (Québec
City) 171St-Jean Baptiste (Québec
City) 164St-Louis Forts & Châteaux
National Historic Site (Québec City) 158-9
St-Roch 169-71St-Sauveur-des-Monts (the
Laurentians) 202sugar shacks 202Sutton (Eastern
Townships) 206
Ttam-tam concerts 26, 115taxes 45taxis 252taxis (Quebec City) 253telephone services 14, 258television 234, 239Terrasse Dufferin (Québec
City) 158theater 240-1theater (Québec City) 248time 14, 258, 263tipping 31, 35TOHU 144Tour de l’Île 22tourist information 14, 259tours
Montréal 254Québec City 167, 254shopping 44-5
train travel 251, 252, 253Transatlantique Montréal
240travel to Montréal 15, 250-1travel to Québec City 251-2
travel within Montréal 15, 252-3
travel within Québec City 253
traveler’s checks 257-8Treaty of Paris 224Tremblay, Gérald 232Trois-Rivières 199-201Trudeau, Pierre 227, 229
UUnion Nationale party 225Université de Montréal
144, 145Université du Québec à
Montréal 101urban planning 244urban planning (Québec
City) 246Ursuline Museum
(Trois-Rivières) 200
VVal-David (the Laurentians)
202Vieux Palais de Justice 58Vieux Séminaire de St-
Sulpice 53Vigneault, Gilles 239Vignoble l’Orpailleur
(Eastern Townships) 206
Village des Neiges 13, 21, 75
Village, the 49, 98-109, 290-1
accommodations216-18
drinking & nightlife 99, 104-5
entertainment 99, 108food 101-4highlights 98, 98shopping 99, 108-9sights 101transport 99
visas 14, 259visual arts 241visual arts (Québec City)
246
WWainwright, Rufus 236Walker, Horatio 241walks
Downtown 83, 96, 83, 96
Mile End 130, 130Old Montréal 59, 59Outremont 130, 130
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
INDEX P
-W
273273Parc du Mont-Royal
117, 117Plateau Mont-Royal
114, 114Quartier Latin 103, 103Québec City 165, 165
Watson, Patrick 236weather 15websites 14
children, travel with 24drinking & nightlife 35entertainment 39festivals 43food 31planning 14, 15shopping 45
weights 256Wendake 196Westmount City Hall 94Westmount Conserva-
tory 94Westmount Park & Library
94Westmount Square 94Winter Carnival (Québec
City) 248, 184women travelers 259WWI 225
Zzoos
Aquarium du Québec (Québec City) 171
Biodôme 24, 145, 148Granby Zoo (Eastern
Townships) 206Insectarium 24, 145
5 EATING
AAlati-Caserta 136Au Festin de Babette 119Au Petit Extra 102Au Pied de Cochon 116Aux Anciens Canadiens
(Québec City) 173Aux Vivres 118
BBagels on Greene 94Beauty’s 116-18Beaver Club 85Beijing 65Bevo 62Bistro B (Québec City)
178-9
Bistro Isakaya 87Boris Bistro 62-3Boustan 86Brynd (Québec City) 175Buffet de l’Antiquaire
(Québec City) 175
CCafé Babylone (Québec
City) 179Café Krieghoff (Québec
City) 178Café Méliès 86Café Santropol 118Caffè Italia 132Calories 94Casse-Crêpe Breton
(Québec City) 173Chez Ashton (Québec
City) 173Chez L’Épicier 62Chez Lévêque 132Chez Queux 62Chez Temporel (Québec
City) 173Chez Victor (Québec
City) 176Ciccio Café (Québec
City) 176Cluny Artbar 63-4, 67Conti Caffe (Québec
City) 172Cuisine Szechuan 85-6
DDa Emma 63Dépanneur Le Pick Up
131Dunn’s 87
EÉpicerie Européenne
(Québec City) 176Éric Borderon (Québec
City) 177Euro Deli 118
FFairmount Bagel 136Ferreira Café 86Furusato 86
GGambrinus (Trois-Rivières)
201Gandhi 64Garde-Manger 61, 65Gibby’s 63
Gibeau Orange Julep 150Graffiti (Québec City) 178
HHélène de Champlain 76Hoang Oanh 65Hosaka-Ya Ramen (Québec
City) 179
IImadake 86
JJano 118Jardin de Jade 65Joe Beef 85Juliette et Chocolat 102-3,
132Jun I 131
KKazu 85Kitchen Galerie 131Kitchenette 101
LLa Banquise 118La Binerie Mont Royal
119La Boîte à Pain (Québec
City) 177La Cuisine (Québec City)
179La Forge Bar & Grill (the
Laurentians) 203La Gargote des Antiquaires
86La Khaïma 132La Louisiane 150La Maison Kam Fung 64La Panthère Verte 132La Paryse 102La Petite Cachée (the
Laurentians) 203La Sala Rosa 118L’Affaire est Ketchup
(Québec City) 179Largo Resto-Club (Québec
City) 179Laurie Raphaël (Québec
City) 174Lawrence 131Le 48 Saint-Paul (Québec
City) 175Le Bilboquet 133Le Billig (Québec City)
176-7Le Buffet 76
Le Café du Clocher Penché (Québec City) 178
Le Café du Monde (Québec City) 175
Le Cafetier (Eastern Town-ships) 207
Le Cagibi Café 133, 137Le Club Chasse et Pêche
62Le Cochon Dingue (Québec
City) 175-6Le Commensal 102Le Commensal (Québec
City) 176Le Creux du Vent (the
Laurentians) 203Le Croquembouche
(Québec City) 179Le Faubourg 87Le Filet 115-16Le Grain de Sel 102Le Grill (Trois-Rivières) 201Le Gros Jambon 62Le Hobbit (Québec City)
176Le Lapin Sauté (Québec
City) 174Le Local 62Le Mistral Gagnant
(Québec City) 175Le Pain Béni (Québec
City) 173Le Paingruel (Québec
City) 177Le Panetier Baluchon
(Québec City) 177Le Patriarche (Québec
City) 173Le Petit Alep 132Le Petit Cochon Dingue
(Québec City) 176Le Petit Coin Latin (Québec
City) 173Le Poivre Noir (Trois-
Rivières) 200Le Postino (Québec City)
179-80Le Relais (Eastern Town-
ships) 207Le Saint-Amour (Québec
City) 172Le Taj 86Le Tire-Bouchon (Eastern
Townships) 206L’Échaudé (Québec City)
174Leméac 131-2Les Sucreries de l’Érable
(Eastern Townships) 207
Les Trois Petits Bouchons 116
INDEX E
ATIN
G
274274Lester’s 133L’Express 116, 30Lion d’Or (Eastern
Townships) 207Liverpool House 86Lola Rosa 87L’Orignal 61, 67
MMa-am-m Bolduc 119Magnan 150Mai Xiang Yuan 64Mango Bay 87Marché Milano 136m:brgr 87Milos 131Misto 118Moishe’s 116Morena (Québec City) 77-8
NNoodle Factory 64-5
OOlive + Gourmando 64Orange & Pamplemousse
(the Laurentians) 203O’Thym 101-2
PPaillard Café-Boulangerie
(Québec City) 172-3Panache (Québec City) 174Patati Patata 119Phayathai 87, 132Pho Bang New York 65Pho Cali 65Picardie (Québec City) 178Pilsen (Eastern Townships)
206-7Pintxo 116Pizzeria Napoletana 132-3Pommery Ice Restau-
rant 75Première Moisson 82
QQueue de Cheval 85
RRestaurant Globe 86Restaurant Holder 63
Reuben’s 87Robin des Bois 118
SSchwartz’s 116So-Cho (Québec City) 175SoupeSoup 64Stash Café 64St-Viateur Bagel 131, 135St-Viateur Bagel & Café 119Su 150
TThali 86Titanic 64Toast! (Québec City) 174Toqué! 61-2Tuck Shop 150Tutto Gelato (Québec
City) 177
VVan Horne 129-31Voodoo Supperclub
(Québec City) 178
WWilensky’s Light Lunch
133
YYuzu (Québec City) 179
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
1000 Grammes 104
AApollon 105Aux Vieux Canons (Québec
City) 181Aviatic Club (Québec
City) 180
BBains Douches 67Baldwin Barmacie 136Bar Plan B 120Bar Salon La Porte Rouge
120-1Barfly 120Bières & Compagnie 121Bifteck 121Bily Kun 119Blizzarts 121Bluedog Motel 121
Brasserie la Korrigane (Québec City) 182
Brutopia 90Bu 137Burgundy Lion 90
CCafé Différance 66Café Olimpico 137Café Santé Veritas 66Candi 119-20Chez Dagobert (Québec
City) 181-2Chez José 120Chez Maurice (Québec
City) 181Chez Serge 136-7Circus 105Club Date Piano-Bar 105Cluny Artbar 63-4, 67
DDieu du Ciel 136Dominion Square Tav-
ern 90
EEdgar Hypertaverne 121Electric Avenue 91Else’s 120
GGalerie DomaHom (Québec
City) 181Garde-Manger 61, 65Gogo Lounge 121
HHolts Café 93Hurley’s Irish Pub 90
IInox (Québec City) 181
KKoko 124
LLa Barberie (Québec
City) 182La Buvette Chez Simone
136La Croissanterie Figaro 137L’Assommoir (Outremont)
136L’Assommoir (Old
Montréal) 67
Le Boudoir (Québec City) 182
Le Cagibi Café 133, 137Le Club Social 137Le Drague (Québec City)
181Le Drugstore 105Le Magellan Bar 105Le Moine Échanson
(Québec City) 180Le Pape-Georges (Québec
City) 180Le Sacrilège (Québec City)
180-1Le Saint-Bock 104Le St-Sulpice 104, 34, 107Le Vieux Dublin Pub &
Restaurant 90Les Folies 121Les Salons d’Edgar
(Québec City) 182Les Soeurs Grises 66L’Escogriffe 121L’Île Noire 104L’Oncle Antoine (Québec
City) 180L’Orignal 61, 67
MMcKibbin’s 90Microbrasserie La Diable
(the Laurentians) 203
NNelligan’s Irish Pub
(Québec City) 181Notre Dame des Quilles 36NYKS 90
PPhilémon 65Pikolo Espresso Bar 90Pub St-Alexandre (Québec
City) 180Pub Ste-Élisabeth 90-1Pub St-Paul 67Pullman 90
QQuai des Brumes 121Quartier Latin Pub 105
RReservoir 119
SSalon Officiel 121Saloon 105
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
INDEX D
RIN
KIN
G &
NIG
HT
LIFE
275275Saphir 124Sir Winston Churchill 91Sky Pub & Club 104Stereo 105Stud Bar 105
TTaverne Gaspar 66Terrasse Nelligan 65Terrasse Place d’Armes 66Time Supperclub 67Toi, Moi & Café 137Tokyo Bar 124Typhoon Lounge 150-1
UUN 67Unity 105Upstairs 90
VVelvet 65
WWhiskey Café 136Wunderbar 67
ZZiggy’s 91
3 ENTERTAINMENT
AAgora de la Danse 124Agora (Québec City) 183
BBistro à Jojo 108
CCabaret Mado 108Casa del Popolo 124Casino de Montréal 76Centaur Theatre 70, 240Cinéma Banque Scotia
Montréal 92Cinéma Cartier (Québec
City) 186Cinéma Excentris 92Cinéma IMAX du Centre
des Sciences de Montréal 70
Cinéma Quartier Latin 108Cinémathèque Québécoise
26, 108
Cirque du Soleil 24, 67, 144, 241, 239
Cirque du Soleil (Québec City) 183
Club Soda 92Colisée Pepsi (Québec
City) 187Comedyworks 93
FFou-Bar (Québec City) 183Foufounes Electriques 93
HHouse of Jazz 92
II Musici de Montréal 93Image Mill (Québec City)
182-3
KKiosque Edwin-Bélanger
(Québec City) 183
LLa Rotonde (Québec
City) 186La Tulipe 124Largo Resto-Club (Québec
City) 186L’Astral 13, 91Le Balmoral 91Le Cercle (Québec City) 186Le Clap (Québec City) 186-7Le Divan Orange 124Le Grand Théâtre de
Québec (Québec City) 183
Le Lieu (Québec City) 186Le National 108Le Nouveau Cinéma Du
Parc 92Le Piano Rouge 67Le Théâtre Capitole
(Québec City) 183Le Théâtre du Trident
(Québec City) 186Les Grands Ballets
Canadiens 124, 240Les Gros Becs (Québec
City) 182Les Voûtes de Napoléon
(Québec City) 186L’Espace Contemporain
(Québec City) 183L’Orchestre Symphonique
de Québec (Québec City) 186, 247
MMainline Theatre 124Metropolis 92Montréal Impact 150Monument National 92
OOpéra de Montréal 93Opéra de Québec 183Orchestre Métropolitain
93, 237Orchestre Symphonique de
Montréal 92, 237
PPalais Montcalm (Québec
City) 183Place des Arts 81-2, 91, 22Pollack Concert Hall 93
SSalsathèque 93SAT 93Scanner (Québec City) 186Seagal Centre 150Sharx 93
TThéâtre de Quat’ Sous 124Théâtre de Verdure 112Théâtre du Nouveau
Monde 92Théâtre du Rideau Vert
124Théâtre La Chapelle 124Théâtre Outremont 137Théâtre Périscope (Québec
City) 183Théâtre Petit-Champlain
(Québec City) 183Théâtre St-Denis 108Théâtre Ste-Catherine 108
UUsine C 108
WWheel Club 151
7 SHOPPING
AAdrenaline 97Archambault 109Au Papier Japonais 138
Aux Quatre PointsCardinaux 108
BBenjo (Québec City) 189Birks Jewellers 95Boutique Anne de Shalla
71Boutique Eva B 95Boutique Kettö (Québec
City) 188-9Boutique Spoutnik 109
CCamellia Sinensis 108Centre Eaton 95Chlöe & Justin (Québec
City) 188Choco-Musée Éric (Québec
City) 188Coffre aux Trésors du
Chainon 125Cruella 126
DDHC Art 70Drawn & Quarterly 138Duo 125
FFriperie St-Laurent 126
GGalerie 2000 70Galerie Art Inuit (Québec
City) 187Galerie CO 139Galerie d’Art Beauchamp
(Québec City) 188Galerie Le Chariot 70Galerie Simon Blais 138Galerie St-Dizier 70Galeries d’Art
Contemporain du Belgo 94
Gérard Bourguet Antiquaire (Québec City) 188
HHolt Renfrew 93Hudson Bay Co 94
JJA Moisan Épicier (Québec
City) 188JB Laliberté (Québec
City) 189Jet-Setter 139
INDEX EN
TER
TAIN
MEN
T
276276Joaillerie Jules Perrier
(Québec City) 188John Fluevog (Québec
City) 189
KKanuk 125
LLa Fromagère (Québec
City) 187La Guilde Graphique 70La Petite Cabane à Sucre
du Québec (Québec City) 188
Le Cartet 70Le Marché des Saveurs du
Québec 138Le Rendez-Vous du Col-
lectionneur (Québec City) 188
L’Émouleur 138Les 3 Tours (Québec
City) 187Les Antiquités Grand
Central 95Les Branchés Lunetterie
(Québec City) 187-8Les Cours Mont-Royal 94Les Touilleurs 138Librairie Michel Fortin 125Lola & Emily 125Lucie Favreau Antiques 95
MMarché Bonsecours 55, 70Marché du Vieux-Port
(Québec City) 187Monastiraki 137Mountain Equipment Co-op
(Québec City) 189My Cup of Tea 70Myco Anna (Québec City)
189
OOgilvy 95Original Boutik 125
PParisian Laundry 95Phonopolis 139Priape 109
QQuincaillerie Dante 139
RReborn 70Renaud Bray 95Rooney 71Roots 95
SScandale 125Sillons (Québec City) 189Simons (Québec City) 187Style Labo 138
UU&I 125Un Amour des Thés 139Underworld 109
VVêtements 90 Degrés
(Québec City) 188
ZZéphyr 109Zone 126
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
AAcro-Nature (the Lauren-
tians) 204Action 500 152AML Cruises 72AML Cruises (Québec
City) 190Aquatic Complex 76-7Ashtanga Yoga Studio 97Atrium Le 1000 97Aveda Montréal Lifestyle
Salon Spa & Academy 126
BBattlefields Park (Québec
City) 190Bota Bota 71
CÇa Roule Montréal 71Canadiens de Montréal 97Centre Aquatique 153
Centre d’escaladeHorizon Roc 153
Centre Luna Yoga 72Corridor du Littoral/
Promenade Samuel-de-Champlain (Québec City) 190
Croisiére Patrimoniale du Canal 151-2
Croisières le Coudrier (Québec City) 190
Cyclo Services (Québec City) 190
GGlissade de la Terrasse
(Québec City) 190, 29Grand Prix du Canada
22, 77
HH20 Adventures 152
LLa Maison des Cyclistes
126La Patinoire des Quais
72Le Bateau Mouche 72Le Grand Cycle 126Le Massif de Charlevoix
(Québec City) 191Le Pavillon 113Le Petit Navire 72Le Train de Charlevoix
(Québec City) 192L’École de Voile de Lachine
152-3Lévis Ferry (Québec City)
190
MMont St-Sauveur (the
Laurentians) 203Montréal Alouettes 97Mont-Ste-Anne (Québec
City) 191Mont-Tremblant Ski Resort
(the Laurentians) 203Moretti Studio 97My Bicyclette 97
NNascar: Napa Auto Parts
200 77
OOlympic Basin 77Ovarium 139
PParc de La Rivière-des-
Mille-Îles 152Parc National de la
Jacques-Cartier (Québec City) 191
Place d’Youville (Québec City) 190
Plage de l’Horloge 13, 71Plage des Îles 77P’tit Train du Nord (the
Laurentians) 203
RRafting Montréal 152Running Room (Québec
City) 191
SSaute-Moutons 71Skyventure 24, 151Station Touristique Stone-
ham (Québec City) 192Strøm Nordic Spa 151Studio Bliss 126
VVélopiste Jacques-Cartier/
Portneuf (Québec City) 191
Vélos Roy-O (Québec City) 190
Village Vacances Valcartier (Québec City) 191
4 SLEEPING
AÀ la Bonne Heure B&B 219Alacoque B&B Revolu-
tion 216Alexandre Logan 217Anne Ma Soeur Anne
219-20Armor Manoir Sherbrooke
215Atmosphere 217Au Gît’ann 218Au Petit Hôtel (Québec
City) 194Au Piano Blanc 220Auberge Alternative 212-13Auberge Bonaparte Inn &
Restaurant 212Auberge Bonsecours 212Auberge Café Krieghoff
(Québec City) 197
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
INDEX S
PO
RT
S &
AC
TIV
ITIES
27 727 7Auberge de Jeunesse
Maeva 220Auberge de la Fontaine 219Auberge de la Paix (Québec
City) 194Auberge de St-Venant (the
Laurentians) 204Auberge du Centre d’Arts
Orford (EasternTownships) 207
Auberge du Quartier (Québec City) 197
Auberge du Vieux-Port 212Auberge Internationale de
Québec (Québec City) 194-5
Auberge Internationale de Trois-Rivières (Trois-Rivières) 199
Auberge JA Moisan (Québec City) 197
Auberge Le Jardin d’Antoine 217
Auberge Le Vincent (Québec City) 197
Auberge Place d’Armes (Québec City) 193
Auberge St-Antoine (Québec City) 195
Aux Portes de la Nuit 219
BBienvenue B&B 220Bob & Mariko’s Bed &
Breakfast 219
CCastel Durocher 214Château des Tourelles
(Québec City) 197Château Versailles 214Chez Hubert (Québec
City) 193
FFairmont le Château
Frontenac (Québec City) 193
Fairmont Le Reine Eliza-beth 213
GGingerbread Manor B&B
219
HHI Auberge de Montréal
216HI Montréal St-Antoine 216Hilton Montréal Bonaven-
ture 213Hostel Montréal Central
218Hôtel 71 (Québec City) 195Hôtel Abri du Voyageur 215Hôtel Acadia (Québec
City) 193Hôtel Belley (Québec City)
195-6Hôtel Casa Bella 215Hôtel de l’Institut 219Hôtel de Paris 218Hôtel des Coutellier
(Québec City) 195Hôtel du Fort 214-15Hôtel du Vieux-Québec
(Québec City) 194Hôtel Gault 211Hôtel Gouverneur Place
Dupuis 217Hôtel Le Germain 214Hôtel Le Germain-
Dominion (Québec City) 195
Hôtel Le Roberval 217Hôtel Le St-James 210Hôtel Lord Berri 218Hotel Maritime Plaza 215Hôtel Nelligan 210-11Hotel Parc Suites 215Hôtel Place-d’Armes 212Hôtel St-Denis 218Hôtel St-Paul 211
IIce Hotel (Québec City)
194InterContinental Montréal
211
KKutuma Hotel & Suites 219
LLa Loggia 217La Maison de Bavière
(the Laurentians) 204La Maison Demers (Québec
City) 193La Maison Pierre du Calvet
210La Marquise de Bassano
(Québec City) 192Le Bocage (Eastern
Townships) 207Le Château du Faubourg
(Québec City) 197Le Clos Saint-Louis
(Québec City)193
Le Fleurvil (Trois-Rivières) 199
Le Gîte 220Le Gîte du Parc LaFontaine
218Le Gîte du Plateau
Mont-Royal 216Le Gîte Loiselle
(Trois-Rivières) 199Le Jazz Hostel St-Denis
217Le Petit Hôtel 211Le Petit Prince 214Le Rayon Vert 220Le Relais Lyonnais 217Les Bons Matins 214Les Passants du Sans
Soucy B&B 212L’Hôtel du Capitole
(Québec City) 196Loew’s Hotel Vogue
213
MMaison Brunet 212Manoir Ambrose 215Manoir d’Auteuil (Québec
City) 193
Manoir Hovey (Eastern Townships) 207
Manoir sur le Cap (Québec City) 193
McGill University Resi-dence Halls 216
Montréal Espace Confort 218
Mont-TremblantInternational Hostel(the Laurentians)204
OOpus Montréal 214
PPierre et Dominique B&B
220
RRelais Charles-Alexandre
(Québec City) 197Ritz-Carlton Montréal
213
SShézelles 220Sofitel 214Studios du Quartier
Latin 211
TTrylon Apartments
211Turquoise B&B 218
UUniversité Laval (Québec
City) 192University Bed & Breakfast
Apartments 213UQAM Residences 212
YY des Femmes 216
INDEX S
LEEPIN
G
BASILIQUE NOTRE-DAME
These symbols help you to quickly identify listings in the text and on the maps:
1 SIGHTS
5 EATING
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
3 ENTERTAINMENT
7 SHOPPING
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIESReviews are ordered by author preference to help you get the most out of the city.
These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:
S Sustainable Option
% Telephone Number
h Opening Hours
p Parking
n Nonsmoking
a Air-Conditioning
i Internet Access
W Wi-Fi Access
v Vegetarian Selection
s Swimming Pool
E English- Language Menu
c Family-Friendly
# Pet-Friendly
g Bus
f Ferry
m Metro
b Subway
j Tram
d Train
Top Sights features provide in-depth coverage of the city’s very best sights.
How to Use This Book
Plan Your Trip
Your planning tool kit – Photos, lists and suggestions to help you put together your
perfect trip.
Survival Guide
Your at-a-glance reference – Vital practical information to help you have a
smooth trip.
Get more from your trip – Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of
the city.
Understand
Your complete city guide – Top Sights features, in-depth reviews and
local tips.
Explore
4easy-to-use
sections
plusfull-color
map sectionp280
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Rue Ste-Catherine Est
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Champ-de-Mars
NavettesMaritimes
Old PortTourist Kiosk
Old MontréalTourist Office 15
24
82
89
92
16
64
33 36
35
44
85
88
91
75
70
72
13
89
29
107
103
106
96
95
66 7
90
25
jiSee mapp298
ji
See mapp290
FE G
FE G
5
4
3
1
7
6
2
H
H
#e
0 0.2miles0 400 m
OLD M
ONTRÉAL
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265
Behind the Scenes
OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Robert Bingham, Pauline Cordier, Charles-Etienne, Bruno Falardeau, Colin Hulmes, Chris Owens.
AUTHOR THANKS Timothy N Hornyak My heartfelt thanks to my foodie friends and family whose restaurant suggestions and companionship made research so delightfully filling: my mother Jennifer Hornyak, stepfa-ther Pierre Boudreault, stepbrother Charles Boudreault, cousin Rebecca Bloom-Geddes, faithful tomodachi Marie Murai, my beloved NSS mates, especially Dimitri Antonopoulos, Felix Gutierrez and Aris Piliguian, and also Yvan Marcoux and Kelly Yee, as well as Marie-Jose Pinsonnault of Tourisme Montréal.
Gregor Clark Un grand merci to the countless people who shared their love and knowledge of Québec City, the Eastern Townships, Trois-Rivières and the Laurentians with me, especially Nicole O’Connor, Lucien Beaumont, Julien Lapointe, Anne Minnerly, Beth Stanway and Jori Jaco-beit. Back home, big hugs and thanks to my wife Gaen and daughters Meigan and Chloe, who helped me immeasurably in researching Québec City’s best bakeries and honing my technique on the ice slides at the Ice Hotel.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Cover photograph: Ave St-Denis and Château Frontenac, Québec City; Denis Corriveau/Getty Images.
266
THIS BOOK This 3rd edition of Lonely Planet’s Montréal & Québec City guidebook was re-searched and written by Timothy N Hornyak and Gre-gor Clark. The 2nd edition was written by Regis St Louis and Simona Rabinovitch. The 1st edition was written by Eilís Quinn. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following: Commissioning EditorHeather Howard Coordinating Editors Jessica Crouch, Pete Cruttenden
Coordinating Cartographer Xavier Di Toro Coordinating LayoutDesigner Joseph Spanti Managing Editor Martine Power Senior Editors Andi Jones, Susan Paterson Managing Cartographers Shahara Ahmed, Alison Lyall Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Samantha Forge, Laura Gibb, Kim Hutch-ins, Charlotte Orr Assisting Cartographers Eve Kelly, Alex Leung
Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Nicholas Colicchia Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Lucy Birchley, Melanie Dankel, Frank Diem, Ryan Evans, Jennye Garibaldi, Mark Griffiths, Annelies Mertens, Anna Metcalfe, Kathleen Munnelly, Wayne Murphy, Trent Paton, Jacqui Saunders, Laura Stansfeld, Gerard Walker, Juan Winata, Emily K Wolman, Wendy Wright
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
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