This Guide has been compiled A Guide to Eastern Bhutan:

Mongar and Surroundings

by

Helen Hirsh Spence Consulting

helen@hhsconsulting.com

for the

Mongar Dzongkhag

Special thanks

To

Sherab Tenzin, Dzongdag

Ugyen Tshering, Guide (Sr. Forest Ranger)

Sangay Thinley, Driver

and

The Wangchuk Hotel, Mongar

Acknowledgement

This information was compiled in the spring of 2010 by Helen Hirsh Spence (helen@hhsconsulting.com) who came from Canada as a volunteer for the Mongar Dzongkhag Administration. We owe her our gratitude for doing a very good job in a short period of time. We also owe our appreciation to the Tourism Council for helping with visa and permits and to the Wangchuk Hotel for hosting Ms. Spence.

This guide is a first step. We have many plans to promote tourism in Mongar in a variety of unique ways. We will be establishing nature observatories for local flora and fauna and meditation centres for beginners to experienced practitioners. We hope to restore the Zhongar Dzong for insights into medieval Bhutan and we have already begun to facilitate treks and village stays. In the near future we hope to conduct visits for tour guides and tour operators who we hope will take full advantage of all that Mongar has to offer. Our region is still relatively undiscovered which will appeal to travelers who want to see something new, something different and something extraordinary!

Sherab Tenzin Dzongdag, Mongar

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Contents Pages

Suggested Excursions and Routes to and from Mongar

From East to West: Samdrup Jongkhar ->Trashigang -> Mongar

****stop between Trashigang-Mongar at Chaskhar and Zalaphangma Cafe 25 - 26

From West to East: Bumthang->Mongar

****stop at ruins of Zhongar Dzong for a break or spend day at Jainela Nature Trail 15-16

Single Day Excursions from Mongar within 30- 60 minutes drive

Full day Shami Goenpa- Pongchula Circuit 6 - 7

Chali Village 8 - 9

Larjap 10 -11

Korila Nature Trail 13

Tsanphu 14

Tsakaling 17

Tsakaling Naktsang 18 - 19

Jainela Nature Trail 16

Half day Wengkhar 12

Zhongar Dzong 15

Mongar 4 - 5

Single or Multiple Day Excursions from Mongar within 60-120 minutes drive away

Full day Lhuentse-Dungkhar 23 - 24

Dungkhar-Khoma 24, 22

Khoma-Domkar-Umling 22

On the King’s Trail ( Zimzorong-Kengkhar-Jurmey-Pam-Daksa- Yangbari-Decheling-Nanglam) Sershong-Yarab-Muhung-Drametse Hotels 27

Contact Sherab Tenzin, Dzondag (district governor of Mongar) at 0975 (country code) +

04641100 (within Bhutan) for additional information or go to www.mongar.gov.bt

Introduction to Eastern Bhutan

Largely undiscovered, eastern Bhutan is a region rich in

culture and sites not well known to most tourists nor their tour operators. This is due, in large measure, to the historic reality that entry was through Bhutan’s only airport at Paro in the west. This made the eastern region relatively inaccessible unless the visitor was willing to go back across Bhutan on the only highway. Recently, however, with entry and exit points at Samdrup Jongkhar and easy access through the Guwahati International airport in India, the East has opened up. Travelers can now cross Bhutan without going back over the same route. The following information about Mongar and its surroundings is intended to attract any and all visitors ---- trekkers, art historians, religious tourists, philosophers, cyclists, naturalists, or just the curious --- to visit places that are off the beaten track and not yet mentioned in most guide books. It will hopefully serve to encourage visitors to see nature at its best and enjoy the authentic Bhutanese way of life. Those who inhabit this region are eager to use their well-honed English, become your hospitable guide and host, and delight you in any way they can. Their charm and warmth is unparalleled. This guide provides information about half day /full day/ multiple day visits. Many excursions can be combined or lengthened depending on the preferences of the client. The information found here was compiled in the spring of 2010 and many of the access roads will have been upgraded when this goes into circulation. The anecdotes and stories are all accounts provided by local religious leaders, villagers and district administrators, all of whom were pleased to contribute.

Guide to references and terminology: Common terms:

Goenpa= monastery, sacred place, abbey usually found at the height of land away from settled areas Lhakhang= temple or monastery found in villages and hamlets Drupdey=medititation center and hermitage Tsechu=festival Chorten=small shrine built to house sacred relics Lama= guru, spiritual teacher

Highway= paved road Feeder road= gravel but well traveled Farm road= rougher than feeder and usually up steep inclines. Recommend 4x4 vehicles The following numerical values have been given to the level of endurance required for hikes: 1=easy 2=moderate 3=more challenging Roads:

Wamrong

En route from Samdrup Jongkhar

Mongar ( town)

Mongar is situated on a hill overlooking the

Kurichu valley and surrounding villages. It is

one of the fastest growing towns in eastern

Bhutan as is obvious by the numerous

construction sites. The original main road

continues to be central to the inhabitants’ lives

offering general stores, bars, restaurants, guest

houses, two banks, a pharmacy and several

other shops. Many appear to have similar wares

and goods to an outsider but the locals know the

differences.

Behind this older facade, a number of newer

“streets” provide tailors, handicrafts, electrical

and hardware supplies. A new central park is

under construction and will soon offer the town a

location for celebrations, meetings and an inviting

gathering place, especially for children.

A relatively modern hospital is located in Mongar

and offers the residents of Eastern Bhutan

reliable health services. The hospital is served by

a medical team of about 7 specialists and

numerous “sisters” and/or “brothers” as health

care workers are called here. Visiting physicians

continue to be impressed with how the

Bhutanese medical practitioners manage despite

some constraints in medical equipment and

supplies.

The most celebrated site in Mongar is the Dzong

(fortress) itself. The ancient traditions of a

monastery combined with the governing

structures of modern day administrative offices

typify what Bhutan is today. Entry into the Dzong

is ritualized in that all those who work here must

wear appropriate dress which, in this case,

means more than the national dress (the kira for

women and the gho for men). The men must also

wear a kabney (shawl) and the women a rachu (a

narrow band of woven cloth over their shoulders.)

The building is ancient and requires adaptive

technologies to keep it running and in touch with

the outer world.

The monastery, also housed within the Dzong, affords young monks (usually from the countryside) an opportunity to become educated in all ways spiritual and to receive lodging and meals daily. The sounds of a Buddhist gongs and chanting reverberate within and outside the walls of the Dzong. Annually on the 6th-10th days of the

The Dzong Monastery

View from Wangchuk Hotel

11th Bhutanese month (November), the monks, mask dancers (village men) and dancers (village women) perform a tsechu (festival) which attracts people from throughout eastern and western Bhutan as well as many foreigners. It is regarded as one of the highlights of this region. On Sundays, the farmers from surrounding villages bring their fresh produce to a market adjacent to the new park. Here eggs, fiddlehead ferns, eggplant, potatoes, rice, chillies, bananas can be bought at the going rate. Needless to say, there are no supermarkets and fresh produce is purchased here.

Archery is Bhutan’s national sport. Sundays, the only full day off work for most Bhutanese, is when many friendly competitions take place. It is a cultural experience to observe a match... not only in the finer points of archery but also in the expectations of the spectators. The women who attend, bring juice, beer or the local wine, known as Ara (fermented corn with egg added). Each time, the competitors change sides, they make a stop at the sidelines to imbibe, usually non-alcoholic drinks until the end of the match.

The archery ground is 145 meters. The bows are now high tech (not unlike advances made in ski and tennis equipment due to technology) making them that much more precise. Each time a target is hit, the archer picks up a narrow cloth of various colours (white, red, blue, green, yellow) and hangs it from the belt holding his gho (men’s traditional dress) together. The archer with the most ties is considered the best. However, this is a team sport, and whenever an archer hits the target, his team performs a little dance to celebrate. It is highly entertaining once the arrows which go zinging by at extraordinary speed no longer intimidate the newcomer to the sport!

Archers’ dance

Market

View of Mongar Dzong

Ridge Shami Goenpa-Pongchula Circuit One day excursion Distance from Mongar: 15 minutes on paved road; 30 minutes on farm road Hiking time: about 3-5 hours including lunch breaks and visits to lhakhangs and goenpas; level 1-2 Elevation: ca. 2500 meters A ride up a farm road to Phejur Laptsa with a view of Drepong Geog below followed by a gentle ascent to Shami Goenpa (a 40 minute walk to an elevation of 2,407meters) offers a splendid view of the Wengkhar valley with Themnangbe and Kilikhar villages below. History Before Buddhism took hold in Bhutan, two kings of neighbouring regions invited a well-known lama from Tibet to come south and introduce Buddhist philosophy to their respective villages. The lama obliged, traveling to this particular spot

where the locals constructed a temple in his honour. Today, the site is cared for by a man who is descended from the original caretaker of the Goenpa. This honour is passed down for centuries from generation to generation along the male line. The protective deity of this temple is distinctive in that, originally, herds of cattle were clustered all around the temple. The caretaker, in his offerings, asked the deity to protect the herds from the wild dogs, leopards and tigers that lived among them in the forests. Apparently, his appeals were respected; his herds never met with disaster and cattle continue to live peacefully on the mountain and hills surrounding the goenpa. Along the route, there are two interesting rock formations to be seen. One is in the shape of a Mithum cattle head and clearly faces in one direction --- towards a nearby village, Chaskhar. According to legend, the villages that were “behind” the rock-formed head never successfully bred Mithum cattle (dairy), however, Chaskhar prospered. To this day, Chaskhar maintains a small amount of its churned butter as an offering to this temple to ensure its continued success.

View of Circuit

Another three rocks were allegedly used as a stove to cook a yak’s head. The stones are placed in a position that is representative of 3 villages below. Whenever one of these stones is dislodged or loosened, it portends bad luck for the village. Needless to say, the stones are rarely budged.

A short walk (25 minutes) and 1.27 kms further along the ridge top, brings the hiker to Jaiphu Goenpa, a very well constructed and intact temple which dates from the same era (300-500 years back). Sonam, the caretaker monk who meditates along with five others, maintains that it was the same lama who built this drupdey (meditation center) as the Shami Goenpa. Sonam explained that it is an honour for him to have left the dzong in Mongar to come up to this location. When he and the others begin their meditation ritual, they are isolated for 3 years, 3 months and 3 days. An hour and 2.41 km later, the third goenpa on the day-long trek, Pongchula Goenpa, at 2010 meters, commands a breathtaking view of the valleys below. Again, nobody really knows the precise age of this historic site, but it is believed to date from the same era as the previous two. A lama who originated from Paro but who studied in Tibet had come to settle in this region centuries ago. One day, when meditating at an

ancient chorten, he heard voices chanting “om ma ni pad me hung” and realized that it emanated from the chorten. The god to whom the “on ma ni pad me hung” was dedicated was called Chenrizig and his abode was called Potola. For this reason, he named this location Potola which was transformed through oral accounts to Pongchula. On the descent towards Mongar, 40 minutes and 3.31 kms later, the final destination for the day, Yakang Lhakhang, is reached. This lhakhang is memorable for its collection of artifacts and religious relics: masks, musical instruments, swords, rifles, armour, wooden blocks for printing prayer flags, and statues. The most valuable relic is a statue of Buddha that was found by Pema Lingpa, the treasure discoverer, and it is known as one of the three statues discovered from Membartso in Bumthang. Yakang has an annual 3 day tsechu (festival) on the 8th, 9th and 10th day of the 5th month, one of the oldest festivals in the East. Very few, if any, foreigners have ever stepped into the inner sanctums of these temples. The monks are open, obliging, and very friendly serving tea at Pongchula. This day long hike gives the visitor insight into the spiritual life of times past as well as an enjoyable walk along the way.

Chorten along the way

Yagang

Chali Village One day excursion Distance from Mongar: 30 minutes on paved road. Hiking time: several hours over course of day at Level 2-3. A new farm road will soon bring visitors (who choose not to climb) to the lhakhang. They can either walk or drive down at the end of the day. Elevation: 1421 meters at geog center About a 30 minute drive from Mongar on the paved road to Lhuentse, visitors can stop at Thalapang and climb 1.8 km up to reach the first of many stops along the day’s route, Dechencholing Lhakang. The ascent took 60 minutes to reach Chali. The village tour lasts as long as desired with another climb up to the geog (administrative) buildings and school, a distance of 1km straight up which takes another 40 minutes. Returning downhill (1.84 kms) in 50 minutes is quick according to most! Much of this is optional as the farm road nears completion. History Dechencholing Lhakang (monastery) was built by the third Karmapa Rangjung Dorje in the 14th century. Two temples were built in this geog (sub-district): this one which served as Karmapa’s winter residence, and a second, built by his disciple, a two hour climb higher which served as the summer residence. The lhakhang is cared for by Gangtey Trelku, a lama and the 15

monks who live here and study under him. At the nearby goenpa, another 25 monks study with yet another master teacher. The monastery is 3 storeys high with one section remaining identical to its 14th century roots --- with relics, statues, and altar dating from this period. The most sacred statue was sculpted by the original lama who constructed the monastery. On the third floor, the quarters of the senior monk (who has his M.A. in Buddhism) another remarkable altar and the 108 volumes of Buddha’s original teachings can be viewed. One of the distinguishing features of this lhakang is the wall mural depicting the 1000 Buddhas and the stone with the original scripture of “on ma ni pad me hung” carved by the third Karmapa Rangjung Dorje himself. According to lore, if one can lift this very heavy stone over one’s head 9 times, their good fortune in life is guaranteed. Village life The beauty of this tour was the glimpse into a local Bhutanese farmer’s life in addition to the visit of the magnificent monastery mentioned above and several distinctive chortens. Chali village, consisting of 270 households and 2,200 people, is typical of Bhutanese agricultural society. Village life is rich and the locals invite the rare foreigner in for tea, Ara (home brewed wine), and lunch despite the fact that they have much less to eat than westerners. Their homes are old, characterized by rough hewn wooden planks used as shingles on roofs and stone walls with wooden windows with NO nails used anywhere (typical of Bhutanese style architecture).

Ploughing the earth

Farm land

Along the narrow paths between village homes visitors will see the manufacture of corn chips (using old stone or wooden implements); fields being ploughed with oxen; men taking a break and playing Degor (a Bhutanese version of bocci or boules) where a round stone is thrown 30 meters to reach a target; soon to flower mango, orange, peach, guava, pomegranate, banana trees; chilli pepper and potato gardens; the brewing of Ara; an introduction to the health and geog administrative center, the natural resource extension center, and of course, the local village school. Here the children marvel at the sight of a new face and are as curious and friendly as their teachers and principal. If fortunate, young school children will perform traditional Bhutanese songs in dialect to the delight of peers and visitors. It is believed that the dialect spoken in Chali is one of the most difficult to understand. According to oral history, when God was distributing dialects throughout Bhutan, he ran out at Chali. To solve the problem, he placed all the remnants of the various dialects into a sack, shook it up and gave the village of Chali this hard-to-understand dialect. When Chali villagers speak, their words are recognizable to Bhutanese from across the country. Commentary A visit to Chali or another similar village is the kind of tourism that brings one infinitely closer to

the heart of Bhutanese life. Bhutan boasts 80% of its population as rural/agricultural. It has a unique and progressive conservation policy that dictates that the country remains 60% forested at all times, regardless of the economic advantage it might bring if the trees were exported. This day- long excursion enables the observer to grasp the essence of Bhutanese life in a rural, somewhat remote village.

Grade 2 class room

Brewing Ara

Farmer

farmhouse

e

Larjap One day excursion Distance from Mongar: 30 minutes on paved road Hiking Time: 90 minutes up; 60 minutes down. Level 2-3. Elevation: 2808 meters The hike up to Larjap begins in an unusually open meadow at Chompa. An hour up the mountain to an altitude of 2808 meters and a 30 minute descent to the other side, the visitor will come to one of Bhutan’s celebrated sights----a drupdey (a hermitage and meditation center) clinging to a cliff, overlooking a splendid gorge surrounded by mountains looking into the Pemagatshel district. History Kinzang Richen, who studied under the great guru, Shacha Rinchen, was instructed to leave Punakha for the East to spread Buddhism. It was prophesized that after 15 days he’d meet a tiger and he would show him a path. True to his guru’s word, Kinzang met a tiger on the 15th day of his journey that led him to a spot on a mountain, near a cliff and then disappeared. It was here that Kinzang chose to rest and meditate. On his departure for the East, the great lama Shacha had given Kinzang a relic ---- the statue of the god of long life which had been carved into a rhinoceros horn. While meditating at the designated spot chosen by the tiger, he noticed that the shape of the cliff in front of him was

identical to the shape of the rhinoceros horn carving. Consequently, he chose this site for the temple. Unlike other lhakhangs, goenpas and drupdeys, this special place was allegedly built by a goddess. Kinzang Richen observed that without human intervention, first one layer of stone appeared as a foundation, and each morning thereafter, other layers were added. To verify if he was being fooled, he placed a wooden plank a few meters above the original layers of stone. On his return the next day, he found that it had been covered with even more layers of stone. Today, this plank can still be seen jutting out from the foundation. Kinzang’s next challenge was to find water, which he did, however the protective deity of this body of water begged him not to “subdue” his spirit. He promised that if Kinzang left him alone, he would send him a sign through meditation that would not only provide him with the necessary water but would also help him complete his temple. While meditating, Kinzang was advised to roll an earthen container over the cliff of the building site. He did so. Evidently, the container hit the rock below with such force that it imprinted itself into the rock and water was found. The local deity had provided water, helped with the completion of the drupdey as promised and also protected all who visited or meditated here from falling off the cliff. To this day, no one has ever fallen to their death here. On the completion of the temple, 108 monks arrived to meditate. Their caves and other places of refuge are still evident to the close observer according to the host monk, Tashi. The son of Kinzang, the well known Sangay Zangpo, became the envy of other monks who came here for meditation. To avoid strife, he chose to leave this temple and to found another meditation center nearby known as Tsanphu.

Meadow at Chompa

View up cliff

Mural paintings of all three of these revered lamas can be found on the murals of the temple entry hall. Currently, there are 8 gomchen (lay monks) from all regions of Bhutan who reside here in deep meditation and are isolated for 3 years, 3 months and 3 days. Their provisions come from the Mongar Dzong (fortress) where monks travel up to this meditation center on a regular basis. On the 15th day of the 4th month of the Bhutanese calendar, the sacred relics are taken out of their storage place next to the altar and are shown to all who come from afar. The sacredness, quietness, and solitude is perfect for those who are interested in meditation---from beginners to serious practitioners. Shacha Rinchen

Travelers with host monk, Tashi

Approach to Larjab

Wengkhar Lhakang Half day excursion Distance from Mongar: 30 minutes on paved road Hiking time: 0-50 minutes, depending on destination after the Lhakhang Elevation: 1779 meters History It is unknown when the temple was constructed but its date of restoration is recorded as 1942. This temple is extremely well known and revered as it is the birthplace of ZhabdrungJigme Drakpa, the third incarnation of Zhabdrung (lama) who was both a political and spiritual leader and unified Bhutan. This temple is sacred and very special to the Bhutanese. It has relics and artifacts that are unique because it is related to Bhutan’s founder. . Currently, seven monks reside here and care for the temple and its ancient relics which are safely stored in a metal cabinet adjacent to the altar. Within the cabinet are five container-like drawers which hold: the religious scriptures written in gold; the Zhabdrung’s statues and religious objects; his personal rosary, head gear, monk’s attire; and the carpet on which he prayed. Annually, on the 10th day of the 3rd month of the Bhutanese calendar (which marks the death of the third Zhabdrung), a religious ceremony takes place at this location. The various relics are showcased and the public has an opportunity to view them all. The three storey stone and wooden temple consists of a ground floor partitioned and originally used for prisoners on one side and as horse stalls on the other; the middle storey for grain storage; and a third floor which was used as the living space and temple of the Zhabdrung. A short hike through beautiful forest brings the visitor to the actual birthplace of the third Zhabdrung. A monument is expected to be built at the site of this ruin.

Korila Nature Walk Half day excursion Distance from Mongar: 30 minutes on paved road Hiking time: two or more hours down a trail. Level 2 Elevation: 2389 meters at chorten At the Korila ridge top, near the chorten, a nature path can be found that leads the visitor through the woods on a 5.57km nature walk which once

The wildlife and serenity of the landscape is well worth the visit. This is ideal habitat for bird-watching and picking fiddlehead ferns. One can see martens trying to catch eagles and other than the curious interlude with capped languor monkeys, it is very peaceful and solitary. The variety of species of trees provides firewood, construction materials and agricultural implements for the local villagers.

served as the original route from Mongar to Trashigang.

Depending on the season and the interest of the nature lover, this gentle descent can last anywhere from 2- 4 hours.

Trail

Orchid

Monkey

Capped langur

Tsanphu Drupdey One day excursion Distance from Mongar: 90 minutes (30 minutes on paved road and 60 minutes on the new farm road, when the road is passable) Hiking time: 25 minutes to the chorten above the drupdey (meditation center and hermitage) Visitors may choose to hike in from the main road or any point along the farm road. Level 2 Elevation: 2852 meters At the chorten at the Korila pass, a new farm road winds its way along the ridge 8.77 km to the Tsanphu Drupdey which appears high on the mountain top magically at the last turn in the road. Depending on the time of year, the road may be blocked by rock or landslides making the 50 minute ride considerably longer. The time, however, can be well spent admiring the magnificent views of Mongar and Trashigang districts as well as the four species of rhododendron; magnolias, orchids, strawberry and other flowers that line the drive (March-May). On arrival at the meditation center and hermitage, a small path winds its way 665 meters (25 minutes) up to a chorten with a magnificent view of the mountains and valleys below.

The caretaker monk, maintains the temple along with 11 others who practice deep meditation. This sacred monastery was built by Sangay Zanpo (12th rabjung) in 1730. He was born in 1697 and was one of the devotees of Sangay Rinchen and Shacha Rinchen. After his death, other lamas over the centuries took charge up to 1977 when the monastery fell into disrepair and was abandoned. In 1992, the Mongar Rubdy (monk administration) and dzongkhag (district administration) took it back and renovated it. This relatively small temple has a commanding view and is very accessible. Several animals have been set free on this mountain top as part of a religious ritual—among them some goats, chickens and roosters which are easy prey for predators. Leopard tracks were found on the newly disturbed earth in April. The caretaker acknowledged having seen leopards on many occasions trying to take the animals at night. Wildlife is abundant here.

Tsanphu

Leopard track

View towards Trashiyangtse

Zhongar Dzong Half day excursion Distance from Mongar: 45 minutes on paved road; 5 minutes on feeder road Hiking time: 20 minutes to ruins; level 2 Elevation: 730 meters

The short drive from Mongar to Jangdung leads to a dirt road where a gentle ascent on foot to the ruins takes the visitor through marijuana bushes, a lush forest with song birds and the roar of the Moi Ri (river) in the valley not far below. Orchids, lizards and other flowering trees make for a beautiful walk. This now ruined Dzong which commands an extraordinary view both up and down the valley was once district headquarters for Mongar.

As one story goes, the Dzongpon suffered from serious sinus problems which resulted in him losing his nose. He was in love with a beautiful girl who lived in a distant village but was frustrated because he didn’t have a clear view of her home from his living quarters at the Dzong. In order to remediate the situation he ordered his followers to cut down the mountain that stood between him and his beloved (still can be seen today). This was, of course, a very challenging, if not impossible feat. A displeased citizen chose to cause an uprising by suggesting that the subjects cut down their ruler, the Dzongpon, rather than cut down the mountain. If trails are upgraded and if sections of the ruins are restored, this site will give tourists a view into Bhutan’s feudal past. Presently, it is a nice walk and break on the road to Jainela.

Ruins

Ruins with valley Cut down mountain on right

Jainela One day excursion

Distance from Mongar: 2 hours (45 minutes on paved road; 70 min from ruins of Zhonghar Dzong on farm road)

Hiking time: Any length from 10 minutes to 2 days There is potential for camp sites here.

Elevation: 1790 meters

From the same turn-off at Jangdung, a farm road above the village and the Sengor Chu ( river) valley leads up through a forest that is is being logged in accordance with the high standard of Bhutanese conservation policies. Depending on the season, this refuge for rufous-necked hornbills, a globally endangered bird, and the samber deer, is also home to many other species of birds, flowers, and plants. This site lends itself

to very comfortable walks through the cool broad leaf forest. The paths are well maintained and wide. Chortens and prayer flags adorn the mountainside. This spot is ideal for all naturalists, especially bird watchers and botanists. The intent is to establish permanent camping facilities here for groups who plan their stays in advance.

Philedendron climbers

Chortens

Local store at top of pass

Magnolia trees in bloom

Tsakaling Village and Naktsang One day excursion Distance from Mongar: 35 minutes on paved road Hiking time: full day, much of hike is at level 3 Elevation: 1853 m at Naktsang A wonderfully full and long day begins at Palangphu village on the road (890 m) at 8:15 a.m where a 40 minute hike straight uphill (1.25 km in the shade) brings the visitor to Brengpaling Chorten at 1214 meters. From here, the walk through the various hamlets is less strenuous. Visiting with farmers, watching women sorting grains and children playing with their grandparents, brings the tourist 90 minutes and 3.27 kms later to Tsakaling School (1,594 m) where classroom visits and conversations with the school principal and teachers are welcomed. The principal of this primary school spent two years studying in Australia. He is able to provide excellent insight into the advantages of traditional Bhutanese education and comment on the benefits of new technology and how it is integrated into the curriculum. The starting salary of a new teacher is between 10,000-13000 Nu/ month ($200-225). The school, built in 1982, is well maintained and accommodates 37 students as boarders and educates another 120 (pre-primary to grade 6). Having to climb to the school and learning that equally as many hamlets are located yet higher on the mountain, it is clear why some children board here. Education has a high priority in modern Bhutan. The present government, during its campaign, promised that children will not have to walk more than an hour to attend school. As a result, some temporary schools with qualified teachers are built in local hamlets to accommodate the pre-primary and younger children.

Students in classes are well behaved, standing at attention on entry, greeting all with respect and remaining standing until signalled to sit. Generally children are shy and although they understand some English, they do not venture to say much more than “good afternoon”, “yes” and “no”. Their libraries are filled with interesting and varied books and the teachers who are provided living quarters reflect a true appreciation for their charges and the responsibility to educate the next generation. Mostly smiling faces and runny noses greet the rare visitor.

The principal explained how fortunate his school is to receive funding from the World Food Program (WFP) which feeds the children here and in other rural schools both breakfast and lunch while at school. This serves as a great incentive to get children to school in the mornings.

Farm house

School

Naktsang After visiting the school, passing through the geog center (local district admin offices), an hour and 3.31 kms further up the mountain, one arrives at the famous Naktsang, (a private lhakang, home of famous or noble proprietors) and a community lhakhang. At this point, the hiker will have climbed a total of 7.83 km and may be very tired, however, at the Naktsang, the 41 year old owner, Tenzin Dendup, his wife and children are willing to share stories about their home’s history. Tenzin is the the 13th generation of noble family members to live in the Naktsang. Regrettably, his father died when he was still young and never got around to passing down much of the local lore. What follows is the history as he knows it. History The founding lama originally from Yongphula came through the forest on his way to find a new place to settle. He was wearing a hat which was caught by the prickles of a cane plant. Unable to free it from the prickles, he believed this to be an omen prophesizing that he settle here-- which he did--- naming the area Tsakaling which means “hat” in the local dialect.

The lama built both the Naktsang and the temple across the courtyard 15 meters away. This lhakhang (temple) has been extended 3 times to reach its present size, the latest renovation being 78 years back. The Naktsang (home of the lama and now of Tenzin and family) consists of a ground floor which stores grains; a second floor used for the living quarters of the caretaker and his family; and a third floor where the temple is located. Unfortunately, the recent earthquake seriously damaged the third floor and the shrine was removed to the neighbouring temple across the courtyard. The Naktsang and the temple are well known for the annual festival on the 8th month of the Bhutanese calendar which takes place over 3 days on the 8th,9th,and 10th days. Mask dances and songs are performed by the local gomchen (lay monks) and apparently, these festivities differ greatly from those ceremonies performed at the Dzong. This incredible temple has a very rich and rare collection of artifacts, paintings and its shrine and altar are unique. A visit to this Naktsang is a must!

Naktsang

Mural

Every three years, another festival is performed here in addition to the annual festival. It takes place in winter and lasts for 4 days. The religious offerings and scriptures recited are quite different from those celebrated annually. They consist of walking around the temple clockwise throughout the night, reciting prayers and singing ritualistic songs. All local villagers (ca. 1000) attend, however with a new farm road being built, it is anticipated that more than locals will attend in the future. The annual festival pays tribute to the protective deity and ensures that no harm comes to the village nor to the caretaker’s family. The caretaker explained that although Buddhism is practiced throughout Bhutan, here at the Naktsang, a different sect, Peling, is practiced. Even the great lama, Gangtey Trulku, who visited 3 years ago, found that the practice of the local gomchen was distinctive.

A packed lunch and informative visit to the two temples lasts more than two hours which makes for a quick and steep descent to the road before dark. The 2.5 hour descent through beautiful village landscapes, oak forests, orchids flowering, rhododendrons beginning to flower, pheasants hiding in the bush, wild goats, and a very steep trail is worth enjoying. Spending more time at either the Naktsang or in the village is recommended. All in all, this day’s hike consisted of 14 kms on the mountain and an outing of 11 hours which can easily be broken into two segments. Here again, a farm road is under construction and will soon be completed which will provide greater access to those who do not wish to hike.

Red chillies drying in the sun

Lhakhang

Interior

Farmer and wife

Khoma and Domkhar One day excursion Distance From Mongar: 2 hours on paved road Distance from Dungkhar: 2 hours on feeder road Hiking time: one hour from road. Level 1 Elevation: 1359 meters From Dungkhar to Khoma or from Mongar to Khoma affords the observer another wonderful perspective on the Kurichu (river) along the two hour drive.

Khoma is well known for its weavers of silk on silk, who sell their extraordinary and detailed patterned kira, gho, and table cloths at handicraft shops in Thimphu. It is a delightful, colourful, clustered village with friendly inhabitants who are as keen to offer the newcomer to tea as they are to sell you their magnificent wares. One villager well respected for her talent and design had been in New York City demonstrating at the Museum of Modern Art for a three month period. The many intricacies involved in weaving a three piece kira easily take over a year to complete. Some designs require the artistic weavers an entire day to complete two rows. Their art is one that hopefully will continue despite the trend toward machine woven cloth in many countries.

Once at the famous suspension bridge which is only suited to people, animals, and very light/small cars, the ascent on a newly built farm road along the Khomachu (river) takes the average trailblazer about 75 minutes. Coming down can be quicker if one doesn't stop to talk with the locals who are always interested in knowing where you are coming from and why you are visiting their village.

View of Khoma

Woven wares

Demonastration with silk thread

In addition to the weaving community, Khoma has a primary school, a basic health unit, a renewable national resource extension center, a park ranger office and a lhakhang. The wildlife and scenery which is typical of a raging river makes Khoma that much more distinctive! This is an ideal spot for mountain biking, cycling, and birding (and even white water rafting, kayaking or canoeing if available in the future). Where the Khomachu joins up with the Kurichu, a well known cremation center can be seen from the road along with the two colours of these fast-moving rivers. Khoma may become the site for a hydro power plant which would change the character of the village's environment considerably. A bridge is also being built to replace the suspension bridge that now goes over the Kurichu. This too will impact the community. No hotels or guest houses currently exist. A home stay arrangement is required or else tenting facilities can be arranged to overnight in Khoma. It is a perfect place for day hiking.

Domkhar and Umling Distance from both Mongar +/or Khoma: 60 minutes on paved road + 60 minutes on farm road Hiking: Level 2 if visitor doesn’t take car Elevation: 1995 meters Another hour from Khoma along and back towards Mongar, a farm road off Phawan leads 14.5 km up (43 curves and another hour later) past Domkhar to the end of the road at Umling. Here, at 1995 meters, the caretaker of the lhakhang enabled a visit to the interior of the old but well maintained village lhakhang. Depending on the day, if foggy and cloudy, the magnificent views may not be seen but the fog lends itself well to the mystical, magical feel of this place high up. The ambitious visitor can either walk up this mountain (4 hours) or use the very new and, not for the faint of heart, farm road. Returning via the road requires another hour but once back on the paved road, Mongar is again only an hour away. This day visit can be combined with the tour of Lhuentse and Dungkhar to make for a two day circuit which offers a variety of experiences to the uninitiated in Bhutan. It is definitely worth the time required to reach the destinations by car and by foot.

Shrine

View Home in Umling

Lhuentse and Dungkhar One day excursion Time from Mongar to Lhuentse: 2 hours on paved road; 2 more hours on feeder road to Dungkhar Hiking time: up to Dzong, 5 minutes. Level 1. Elevation: 2047 m Two hours (73 km) from Mongar will bring those interested in seeing a remote region and a very isolated "village" to Lhuentse. Village is in quotation marks as there is little more than an alley of wooden barrack-style shops which serve as the local center of commerce with a handful of bars/restaurants. There are very few homes here to accommodate those who work at the government offices or at the Dzong which was unfortunately damaged during the recent earthquakes. Here the main road ends high on a hill where an imposing Dzong (fortress) occupies a prominent place in the landscape, overlooking the Kurichu valley on one side and a view towards snow capped peaks in Tibet on the other. When looking north, a small trail can be seen climbing

up the valley into the mountains. This is the feeder road which leads to Dungkhar. The approach to the Dzong is unusually steep and the building is equally as tall once one enters the main courtyard. Finding a monk to open the lhakhang was a challenge but once inside, there is a collection of ancient masks, hats, treasures from the tsechu (festival) as well as an altar with equally as ancient statues of Buddha. After visiting the Dzong, down the road past the Lhuentse hospital, a turn to the left leads to the Phuyum Higher Secondary School where students and staff can be observed relaxing on a Sunday morning. Road to Dungkhar The 40 km dirt and gravel "feeder" road leading to Dungkhar is one of the most scenic in the country. It, too, meanders along the Kurichu (river), changing heights dramatically (height of pass at 2047 meters) and shifting from one climatic zone to another rather abruptly. Various birds (magpies among many others), deer, forest

Lhuntse Dzong

View of Kurichu valley

Horses grazing at height of pass

types (virgin, cool broad leaf), philodendron climbers, horses and cattle grazing at high Elevations are part of the enjoyable landscape.

History Dungkhar is literally the end of the road in the north and only foot trails can be found leading from there into Tibet. This small village is reknowned for its two Naktsang (a temple belonging to a noble family or protective deity): one which was the home of the father of the first king, Jigme Namgyal, born in 1825 in the village; and the second, overlooking the village, where another brother lived. At the age of 16, Jigme Namgyal, left home to become the Trongsa penlop (governor and leader). He is the father of the first king, Ugyen Wangchuk who founded the Wangchuk dynasty. Gengup, the senior monk currently in charge of the Naktsang, had just been transferred to this temple from Lhuentse. He is in charge of about 20, 13-17 year old monks who either study under his tutelage or relax on Sundays playing volleyball, washing their robes, or landscaping the courtyard.

When democracy was introduced to Bhutan in 2007, the fifth king came to Dungkhar to demonstrate to the villagers in this remote region the importance and actual process of selecting a candidate in a mock election process. The well known "holy" mountain, Rinchen Bumpa, across the valley where the Guru Rinpoche meditated in 700 AD, can be seen from here. The mountain has numerous caves and meditation spots. This village and Rinchen Bumpa are at the confluence of 3 rivers joining to make the Kurichu one of Bhutan's biggest rivers. A primary school is also to be seen on the grounds of the Naktsang above the village. If fortunate, an archery competition between rivaling but friendly competitors can be observed on a Sunday. This naturally beautiful landscape lends itself to wonderful walks and hikes in the hills, and down into the Kurichu valley. It would be a perfect location to pitch a tent as no guest houses or hotels are available. If a return to Mongar is required, travelers should ensure an early departure in order to take advantage of the breathtaking scenery on their return.

Dungkhar Naktsang

Second Naktsang

Feeder road to Dungkhar

Monks drying their robes

Chaskhar Village and Zalaphangma (Monkey’s Shoulder) Café /Restaurant Half day excursion or en route to /from Trashigang Distance from Mongar: 45 minutes(35 km) on paved road + 30 minutes on feeder road- recommended visiting en route to Trashigang or vice-versa. Trashigang is 51 km and 75 min from Café Hiking time: minimal, depending on visit in village and surrounding lhakhangs Elevation: 1356 m at café

Chaskhar is another of Eastern Bhutan’s interesting and noteworthy villages, famous for its successful breeding of Mithum (dairy) cattle. Chaskhar boasts three community lhakhangs (temples) and three private temples. Two community temples are immediately accessible by road and the others are all within a walkable distance. Further construction of the farm road is underway and will make the other temples that much more accessible. In addition to lhakhangs, tourists can visit a typical Bhutanese household observing where and how food is prepared and eaten; viewing the bedrooms, living areas and household altars. All the old utensils, pots, pans, bedding with local woven tapestries are on display in this home adjacent to the road. This typical rural village of 430 households (3000 inhabitants) has two government schools and four non-formal education centers. Its villagers are welcoming and gracious hosts.

History The Yakdue Goenpa is over 300 years old. The original builders were nobles and it is believed that it was built on a lake/pond. Presently, there is no lake, but above there are two and it is believed that under the foundation of this goenpa water can still be found. Sacred relics brought from Tibet are housed in this temple and are showcased on the 10th day of the 5th month of the Bhutanese calendar, the birthday of Guru Rinpoche. This one day tsechu (festival) celebrates the 8 manifestations of Guru Rinpoche in a mask dance. A second festival takes place on the 14th, 15th, and 16th days of the 10th month of the Bhutanese calendar with community participants in the mask dances. Kadam Lhakhang, where monks receive a formal education, Shedra, is the site of a third festival, one month later on the 14th, 15th, and 16th days of the 11th month of the Bhutanese calendar.

Zalaphangma, Monkey’s Shoulder Cafe

Following a visit to Chaskhar coming from either directions, Mongar or Trashigang, a stop at the Monkey’s Shoulder Café is a natural break point for the trip. The Café is directly on the highway near the cut-off to Chaskhar and can accommodate many visitors at the same time for a delicious lunch or dinner in a contemporary setting with ideal seating both inside and outside. It is likely the cleanest and most western of restaurants in the eastern region all the while maintaining strong Bhutanese architecture and traditions, inside and out. Tasteful handicrafts are for sale and the host has a wonderful library of books on view for visitors to read while waiting for lunch. The food is delicious and the toilets are very clean!

Entrance from road

Exterior seating

Interior seating

Ordering lunch

Addendum: The Beautiful Yarab Drametse Trek

(Sershong, Yarab, Muhung, Dremtse)

This circuit can be done as a nine to ten day programme with Samdrup Jongkhar as both the entry and exit

points. It is a beautiful trek which can be combined with several festivals in and around Mongar which take

place throughout the year (see festival dates on page 31). The festivals in this part of Bhutan follow the

Peling tradition established by the treasure revealer, Pema Lingpa. The villages of Sershong, Yara, Thiling,

Muhung are home to the very rare hornbill.

Day 1: The trek from Sershong to Yarab takes about four hours. The climb is gentle until Khabrak at which

point the climb becomes steep for an hour up to Yarab. In between, the trail passes through the village of

Soenakhar, Rilling and Bomey. The visitor has the option of pitching a tent or being a guest in one of the

houses for the night.

Day 2: Yarab Muhung: The trail will pass through the villages of Thramo and Thilling and is considered an

easy hike. This is an ideal opportunity to spend time bird watching and discovering village life. The village

of Muhung itself is a beautiful one and consists of about 100 households overlooking the Sherichu (river)

and the villages of Senakhar and Sershong on the opposite bank. It is tradition for villagers to receive

guests with ara (home brew) and dance in the evening.

Day 3: The route to Drametse from Muhung via Drupchu has steeper climbs but is more interesting in terms

of places to visit. The route via Bagang is easier but longer.

Drametse lies at an altitude of 2300 m. It is 18 kilometers and thirty sharp turns to the Mongar Trashigang

highway. The Monastery is the glory of Drametse. It was founded by a highly accomplished nun, Ani

Choeten Zangmo in the 16th century. She was the granddaughter of the famous treasure revealer, Pema

Lingpa (1450-1521).

It is said that Ani Choeten travelled via Aja in Mongar, a holy site, in search of this prophesized place.

While meditating, her conch shell produced a melodious sound which led her to believe that this was the

said location. She named it Drametse, “the place free of enemies”. From this point forward, Ani Choeten

Zangmo entered into countless religious retreats propagating the teachings of Pema Lingpa.

Drametse is known for its dance of the drums. According to legend, when Kuenga Wangpo was in a deep

meditative trance he saw a vision of three beautiful celestial women (dakini) dressed in silken gowns,

adorned with garlands of precious ornaments. They guided him to the abode of Guru Rinpoche who was

seated on a throne surrounded by celestial heroes and heroines performing this now famous dance of the

drums. When Kuenga Wangpo came out of his contemplative state, he carefully noted the choreography of

the dance and introduced it to Drametse in order to transmit the Mahayana Tantric teachings through the

sacred and esoteric movements of the deities. The dance is believed to have the power to establish peace,

prosperity, tranquility and good fortune in the community.

Festivals in Mongar 2010

Yakgang 21 June

Thangrong 19 June

Thangrong 20-22 November

Yadhi 21 June

Chaskhar 21 June

Chaskhar 20-22 November

Drametse 21 May 1 August

Drametse 1 August

Drametse 19-21 November

Depong 22-23 September

Depong 19-21 November

Thidangbi 19-21 December

Sengor 17-19 August

Kengkhar 21 June

Kengkhar 21 Novemebr

Jurmey 13- 17 October

Gongdue 15-17 September

Tsakaling 14-17 September

Closing Ceremony on Sports Day, Higher Secondary School, Monga

Hotels in Mongar

(Bhutan Country code 0975)

Wangchuk Hotel 04641522

Zhongar Hotel 04641588

Druk Yul Hotel 04641456

Dolma Hotel 04641508

Druk Zom Hotel 04641206

Photos of Wangchuk Hotel, Mongar