Modification SmokedBlouse ENG

8/13/2019 Modification SmokedBlouse ENG

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Smocked blouseThis style has:

o Smocking on sleeve and hem edgeo Rolled hemso Gathered collar

Fit informationo Scooped necklineo Smocked hiplineo Sleeve smocked above the elbowo Finished length of 68.5 cm can be

adjusted as wished

Fabric recommendationso Silko Crpe de Chineo Cotton batisteo Fine cotton fabrics


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Style variantFrom tunic to smocked blouse

Select modelOpen My Label Software and open the desired model in the model drawer.

Select styleIn the style drawer, under the heading Blouses, select the Tunic. Alter style propertiesas follows:o Increase hip by 10 cmo Increase waist by 5 cm to yield a harmonious line at the side seam.o Reduce sleeve length by 15 cmo Increase wrist measurement by 10 cm

Stitch variant via stitch placement.

Detailed instructions for this can be found in the Appendix.

NecklineMark the new neckline as per the illustration, on the front and back sections. Theneckline curve on the front runs approximately from the centre of the shoulder up toabout 2cm above the slit.The neckline curve on the back begins at the centre back about 2.5 cm below the neck-base line, and ends in the centre of the shoulder. Here, its helpful if front and backsections are placed opposite each other on the work table at the neckline edges. Theexcess shoulder length on the back is moved towards the neckline, so that the shoulderedges match up at the armhole.

Work table Print preview


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Smock markingAt the height of the slit marking, on both the front and back section, draw in a slightlycurved marking line for the first row of smocking.

The width of the smocked border (here, 6 rows each one centimetre apart) is based on

the number of stitch lines, and can be altered as wished.

Front Back Sleeve

Print out pattern piecesPosition, save and print out pattern pieces.For this blouse, only the sleeves and front and back sections are needed.

Cut out pattern pieces and make alterations by handBefore cutting out, check the fit of the reshaped front and back sections. If necessary,redefine height and width of marking lines.

Cut out sleeve, front and back.Cut pattern pieces in half, then add seam allowances on the redefined necklines and cutout.


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Fabric Requirement

Fabric Key

Fabric, right

sideFabric, wrong

side

Lining, right

sideLining, wrong

sideInterfacing

Symbols and Markings Key

CF

Centre Front

CB

Centre Back

B9

Sheet

numberingReference points help

in combining the

individual sheets

Grain

Marking

points on

front sections

Marking points

on back

sections

Pleating in

direction of

arrow

Marking of dart ends

(1cm before the dart

point in each case)

Button

marking

The illustration shows one way the pattern pieces can be laid out on a folded length offabric. Since the pattern pieces are created according to your own measurements andpreferences, they may differ in size and shape from the ones shown and may require adifferent layout from the one shown.

Fabric 140cm wide, to fabric fold.

Materials and miscellaneouso Elastic threado Edge tape, if neededo Depending on fabric quality, water-soluble transparent embroidery stabiliser,

embroidery film, or tissue paper.


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Cutting outo 1 x front to fabric foldo 1 x back to fabric foldo 2 x sleeveo 1 x collar strip for the neckline

width 7.0 cmlength 1.5 x neckline circumference

PreparationArrange paper pattern pieces on the fabric according to the pattern-layout illustration.Cut out, then transfer all markings onto the fabric.

The neckline and armhole can be reinforced with iron-on edge tape to prevent finefabrics from losing their shape.

Sewing Instructions

SmockingTransfer the marking line for the smocking to the fabric on the front and back sectionsas well as the sleeves with a chalk line or darning thread.Thread elastic thread through the stitch-plate hole of the sewing machine.

Now couch the elastic thread along the marking line with the universal stitch, makingsure that the elastic thread pays out evenly and is not pierced by the needle.

Add a further 5 rows of smocking spaced 1 cm apart.Only 5 rows are sewn on the sleeve.Secure, bar-tack and knot off all elastic threads in the seam allowance at one seam endin each case.Pull elastic threads to the desired length and secure the second seam end in each case.Clip elastic ends to about 1 cm.Other ways of dealing with the elastic thread are mentioned in Tips and Tricks.

Shoulder seamsWith right sides facing, place front shoulders together with back shoulders and sew.Neaten seams and press to the back.


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Gathered collarPlace collar strips together with right sides facing; sew and neaten. Neaten one longend of the collar either with the rolled hem of the overlocker, or with the vari-overlockstitch of your sewing machine.Gather the neatened collar strip (Bernina presser foot no. 16). The finer the fabric, the

more attractive the gathering will be. The density of the gather is regulated via the stitchlength and varies according to fabric thickness. We recommend that you sew a sample.

Divide neckline and gathered strips into quarters and mark.Pin collar into neckline right side to wrong side, as per the markings. Distribute anyexcess collar width evenly.Trim seam allowance to one centimetre and neaten. Edgestitch neckline and gatheredcollar on and turn.

Sleeves and side seamsInsert sleeves with right sides facing and neaten seams.

Close side seams and neaten.Neaten cuff and edge of blouse with a rolled hem.

Youll find further detailed information in your My Label program underHelp> Sewing techniques. This option offers detailed instructions on how to sew beltloops, collars, pockets, linings (and much more) properly. In addition, the basics ofsewing techniques are dealt with for newcomers.

Documents

Modification SmokedBlouse ENG