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PLAYING TO WIN In Duluth, Tavern on the Hill eyes mass appeal, combining the latest industry trends into one restaurant. DOUBLE SHIFT Oceanaire server finds real estate sales an ideal complement to his career in foodservice. WHERE'S THE FLAVOR? Our columnist's trip to Mexico reveals just how far America's influence on other cultures' food has reached. Mixing Music With Menus By Laura Michaels T HE ABILITY TO MOVE 600 PEOPLE through a restaurant in one night is no small feat. It’s a challenge the staff at Dakota Jazz Club and Restaurant regularly confronts, when two-set nights give them just 20 minutes to reset some 300 covers before then next act takes the stage—and another wave of guests arrive. “Our record is 12 minutes,” says General Manager Martina Priadka. “This is something I’m really proud of with my staff and it shows their skill level.” While dinner is becoming the show at many restaurants, for the Dakota it’s about integrating the two experiences, mixing music with a sophisticated menu—and having a team that can make it appear effortless. For Priadka that means finding servers who understand volume and the sense of urgency involved in turning hundreds of tables in just a few hours. “It’s quite an undertaking to train as a server here,” she says, noting the learning curve for each position is one year. “It’s a big commitment to train. It almost seems like madness. But it’s a concise and controlled madness that they learn to adapt to.” The learning curve involves mastering a “kittens with mittens” approach. “You move around the table in as seamless and graceful way as possible,” explains Priadka. In most restaurants the guest often looks to make eye contact with a server to indicate a need. At the Dakota, however, the guests are intent on watching the performance, leaving the server to monitor the guest and anticipate what they want. The restaurant also employs its own system: each table is set with coasters, with one side indicating “service please,” and the other, “I’m fine, thank you.” “It’s fine dining training in a tight and controlled environment,” says Priadka. That controlled environment extends to the kitchen, where Executive Chef Derik Moran and his team keep ticket times to less than 15 minutes. “We used to have 45-minute ticket times,” says Priadka. “Derik has taken great steps to The News and Information Source for Restaurants and the Foodservice Industry www.foodservicenews.net Volume 25• Issue 8 October 2014 PRESORTED STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID Permit #577 St. Cloud, MN 2808 Anthony Lane South Minneapolis, MN 55418 www.foodservicenews.net CHANGE SERVICE REQUESTED ODSERVICE NEWS FO Parking Matters By Jane McClure A LAND WAR OVER PARKING IS brewing in St. Paul’s Cathedral Hill neighborhood, as Salt Cellar prepares to open its doors at the northwest corner of Selby and Western avenues. The St. Paul City Council this fall will be asked to vote on the new fine-dining restaurant’s on-sale liquor and on-sale Sunday liquor licenses, following a September 8 legislative hearing recommendation. The vote will be the first high- profile test of new restaurant-and- bar parking regulations that were changed more than two years ago. City council members who championed the changes said it would allow restaurants to open in areas that couldn’t be used under the previous regulations. In neighborhoods where parking is tight, it can add to conflicts. In popular Parking Matters | page 16 Mixing Music With Menus | page 20 By Laura Michaels W HEN PAUL DZUBNAR THINKS about his business strategy as a restaurant owner, it comes down to diversification. “I think about it like investing in the stock market,” says Dzubnar. “You don’t want to put all your eggs in one basket.” With his sixth and seventh restaurant concepts in the works, Dzubnar stays true to that philosophy. After rising through the ranks of Green Mill Restaurants, starting as a district manager in 2002 before becoming a franchisee, company vice president and eventual president and CEO, Dzubnar went into development mode. But simply adding more Green Mills to the map wasn’t his vision. Instead his sights turned to the original Green Mill Café location on Grand and Hamline avenues in St. Paul, which offered pizza by the slice and housed the company’s delivery operations. “I decided the space was under utilized and we weren’t generating enough sales to maximize the real estate,” explains Dzubnar. He came Learning From the Pros | page 12 With his sixth and seventh concepts in the works, serial restaurateur Paul Dzubnar isn’t short on experience— and he’s willing to share. Performers such as Chastity Brown take the stage nightly at the Dakota Jazz Club & Restaurant, where the dining experience and entertainment are carefully integrated. Photo by Marcus Johnson Learning From the Pros

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Page 1: Mixing Music With Matters Menus Ato have 45-minute ticket times,” says priadka. “Derik has taken great steps to ... October 2014 • Foodservice News 3 M ODeRn plATInG HAsn'T quite

PLAYING TO WINIn Duluth, Tavern on the Hill eyes mass appeal, combining the latest industry trends into one restaurant.

DOUBLE SHIFTOceanaire server finds real estate sales an ideal complement to his career in foodservice.

WHERE'S THE FLAVOR?Our columnist's trip to Mexico reveals just how far America's influence on other cultures' food has reached.

Mixing Music With

MenusBy Laura Michaels

THe AbIlITy TO MOve 600 peOple through a restaurant in one night is no small feat.

It’s a challenge the staff at Dakota Jazz Club and Restaurant regularly confronts, when two-set nights give them just 20 minutes to reset some 300 covers before then next act takes the stage—and another wave of guests arrive.

“Our record is 12 minutes,” says General Manager Martina priadka. “This is something I’m really proud of with my staff and it shows their skill level.”

While dinner is becoming the show at many restaurants, for the Dakota it’s about integrating the two experiences, mixing music with a sophisticated menu—and having a team that can make it appear effortless.

For priadka that means finding servers who understand volume and the sense of urgency involved in turning hundreds of tables in just a few hours. “It’s quite an undertaking to train as a server here,” she says, noting the learning curve for each position is one year. “It’s a big commitment to train. It almost seems like madness. but it’s a concise and controlled madness that they learn to adapt to.”

The learning curve involves mastering a “kittens with mittens” approach. “you move around the table in as seamless and graceful way as possible,” explains priadka.

In most restaurants the guest often looks to make eye contact with a server to indicate a need. At

the Dakota, however, the guests are intent on watching the performance, leaving the server to monitor the guest and anticipate what they want. The restaurant also employs its own system: each table is set with coasters, with one side indicating “service please,” and the other, “I’m fine, thank you.”

“It’s fine dining training in a tight and controlled environment,” says priadka.

That controlled environment extends to the kitchen, where executive Chef Derik Moran and his team keep ticket times to less than 15 minutes. “We used to have 45-minute ticket times,” says priadka. “Derik has taken great steps to

The News and Information Source for Restaurants and the Foodservice Industry

www.foodservicenews.net

Volume 25• Issue 8 October 2014

PRESORTED STDU.S. POSTAGE

PAIDPermit #577

St. Cloud, MN2808 Anthony Lane SouthMinneapolis, MN 55418www.foodservicenews.net

ChANge ServiCe requeSted

ODSERVICENEWS FOParking Matters

By Jane McClure

A lAnD WAR OveR pARkInG Is brewing in st. paul’s Cathedral Hill neighborhood, as salt Cellar

prepares to open its doors at the northwest corner of selby and Western avenues. The st. paul City Council this fall will be asked to vote on the new fine-dining restaurant’s on-sale liquor and on-sale sunday liquor licenses, following a september 8 legislative hearing recommendation.

The vote will be the first high-profile test of new restaurant-and-bar parking regulations that were changed more than two years ago. City council members who championed the changes said it would allow restaurants to open in areas that couldn’t be used under the previous regulations.

In neighborhoods where parking is tight, it can add to conflicts. In popular

Parking Matters | page 16

Mixing Music With Menus | page 20

By Laura Michaels

WHen pAul DzubnAR THInks about his business strategy as a restaurant owner, it comes

down to diversification. “I think about it like investing in

the stock market,” says Dzubnar. “you don’t want to put all your eggs in one basket.”

With his sixth and seventh restaurant concepts in the works, Dzubnar stays true to that philosophy.

After rising through the ranks of Green Mill Restaurants, starting as a district manager in 2002 before becoming a franchisee, company vice president and eventual president and CeO, Dzubnar went into development mode. but simply adding more Green Mills to the map wasn’t his vision. Instead his sights turned to the original Green Mill Café location on Grand and Hamline avenues in st. paul, which offered pizza by the slice and housed the company’s delivery operations.

“I decided the space was under utilized and we weren’t generating

enough sales to maximize the real estate,” explains Dzubnar. He came

Learning From the Pros | page 12

With his sixth and seventh concepts in the works, serial restaurateur Paul Dzubnar isn’t short on experience—and he’s willing to share.

Performers such as Chastity Brown take the stage nightly at the Dakota Jazz Club & Restaurant, where the dining experience and entertainment are carefully integrated. Photo by Marcus Johnson

Learning From the Pros

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2 Foodservice News • October 2014

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Page 3: Mixing Music With Matters Menus Ato have 45-minute ticket times,” says priadka. “Derik has taken great steps to ... October 2014 • Foodservice News 3 M ODeRn plATInG HAsn'T quite

October 2014 • Foodservice News 3

MODeRn plATInG HAsn'T quite made it to new ulm.

A recent weekend getaway took me to this adorable Minnesota town where the German heritage is so strong I half expected the locals to don lederhosen on a daily basis. And if you, like me, didn't know the story of Hermann the German, a visit to new ulm's towering 102-foot monument of the legendary chieftain will certainly do the trick.

but back to the plating. so used to the more artistic presentation practiced by a seeming majority of our Twin Cities restaurants, I couldn't help but notice the difference when the kaiserhoff German sampler arrived at the table. A signature menu item at veigel's kaiserhoff, a mainstay in new ulm since 1938, the sampler featured a slab of the restaurant's famous ribs, a landjäger sausage, bratwurst, red cabbage, German potato salad and house-made sauerkraut. not exactly the most attractive items you could put together (see my photos on the Fsn Facebook page) but the authentic flavor was unmistakable.

In chatting with our waitress, who's been serving up the schnitzel for more than 30 years, I learned what's trendy isn't what's important at the kaiserhoff, which feeds just as many (if not more) locals as it does tourists. Instead, they stick to their classics, keep the menu familiar and they do it well.

The experience was fresh in my mind as I headed to st. paul for the expansive fall culinary expo that is us Foods' Food Fanatics live show, where chef demos are a popular draw. In the afternoon,

borough chef nick O'leary took the stage to talk about, you guessed it, modern plating techniques.

As he prepared a tuna crudo dish (pictured below), he talked about the importance of contrasting colors in both the food and the dishware itself. For the tuna dish, nick purposefully chose a blue-gray plate to set off the rich redness of the tuna.

From landscape plating to free form plating to yes, even organic plating the art of food presentation is always evolving. The same goes for just about every kind of restaurant trend, something I learned more about during the first Minnesota Hospitality expo. Hearing from industry experts on the research side and from those with years of hands-on experience in the kitchen and developing restaurant concepts proved both interesting and informative. (Flip to page 21 for more expo coverage.)

In this issue we also dive deeper into the advice pool, covering lessons

learned from developing multiple restaurant concepts, to hosting a grand opening or what goes into finding that ideal piece of real estate. All that wisdom couldn't fit into one story. Thus, some outtakes from my talks with paul Dzubnar, Andrea Christenson and vincent Francoual.

In case you didn't know, restaurant ownership isn't glamorous. "but for some unbeknownst reason, everybody wants to open a restaurant," says Andrea Christenson, who since 2001 has worked with restaurateurs on finding the right locations. "They think they're on the glamorous side, where they're just hanging out, greeting people and shaking hands."

Instead, as paul Dzubnar knows, it's more than a full-time commitment and one that involves constantly assessing your success—or lack thereof.

Don't be afraid to take action if you see something within the operation isn't working. "you can't be afraid to make those tweaks and changes once you're open and learn from what's working and what isn't," says Dzubnar. "It's survival of the fittest."

Hiring the right people is a key part of any restaurant's success, says vincent Francoual, as is making sure to cultivate the talent you have, something that's becoming more and more important as the next generation of chefs is more dependent on receiving positive feedback. "[back in France or in new york], if the chef doesn't talk to you, you're doing a good job," says Francoual. "but here they need that pat on the back."

staying relevant in the minds of diners is also more important than ever, especially with the abundance of restaurant openings and the desire, as Francoual puts it, "to always hear about the new place." For him that means maintaining a visible presence through various marketing efforts and effectively utilizing social media channels. "After 13 years, you need to remind people that you're there."

Laura

Michaels Managing Editor

From the editor

October 2014, Volume 25 Issue 8

EDITORnancy Weingartner

[email protected]

MANAGING EDITOR laura Michaels

[email protected]

ADVERTISINGAmy Gasman

[email protected]

GRAPHIC DESIGN stephen p. Hamburger

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WEBMASTERJenny Worland

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PRODUCTION MANAGERGreg DeMarco

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CONFERENCE SERVICES MANAGERGayle strawn

ADMINISTRATIVE STAFFDanielle IaniroAbbi nawrocki

liz Olson

ACCOUNTINGJill evans

CONTRIBUTING WRITERSMecca bos

Danielle McFarland Dan “klecko” McGleno

Jonathan lockeJulie brown-MickoJoey Hamburger

Jane McClure

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SUBSCRIPTIONSsubscription rate is $35 per year; $59 for two years. To subscribe, change address or other customer service, call 612-767-3200. Foodservice news is published 10 times per year (monthly except combined Jan/Feb and June/July issues) by Franchise Times Corp.

entire contents copyright 2014. All rights reserved.

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A lesson from the plating playbook and advice from others in the know

Chef Nick O'Leary's plated tuna crudo dish.

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4 Foodservice News • October 2014

1 Jon ColePostion: Thespian's character/bartender Years in the industry: NewbieBedlam Theatre, St. Paul

If anything, we'd want to win the award for local good. As a theater group, we opened up a restaurant as a way to further community engagement. The food and beverage program is really good, but it’s not the only thing that we're about; we became a restaurant to be open seven days a week—not just for shows. We keep menu items down in price to support our community. We're here building and trying to be a part of the next era for lowertown in a real, quality way.

2 Lenny RussoPosition: Chef/OwnerYears in the industry: Immeasurable by timeHeartland, St. Paul

I’m excited for the lifetime achievement award. [My vote is for] brenda langton. she has profoundly influenced what I’ve done over the years, and she’s been a successful restaurateur for 40 years. she’s an icon for those of us who are interested in sustainability and local farmers, and she has mentored many people who have gone through her kitchen.

3 Ella AmesPosition: ServerYears in the industry: 7Brasa, Northeast Minneapolis

I think Alex Roberts should win a humanitarian award—it is a James beard Award category. I love that man. Alex supports his staff in ways that are untouchable. He buys dishwashers bikes so they can get to work. If a staffer has a wedding, he will largely contribute to the reception. He is an exceedingly giving dude. He understands ... that the reason

brasa is successful is because of the people who are there every day ... We’re showing up because of our own pride and because of our own involvement … It’s an institution.

4 Shirenee GhanatabadiPosition: ServerYears in the industry: 13Bulldog NE, Minneapolis

I think eli’s east should win an award, not for just one category. every time I go there, the servers are amazing, the food is great, the bartenders remember, the managers are on it, and everything is organized. It’s wonderful. Their chocolate tiramisu is the best. It’s where

my boyfriend and I had our first date and our first kiss.

5 Terry Koenck, Jessica Raygor, Jordan HermannPosition: Chef, Server, BartenderYears in the industry: 34, 17, 12Whitey’s, Northeast Minneapolis

We’re just a regular bar—a good neighborhood bar. We are blue-collar industry people who work here and get along with the people who come in here. Whitey’s opened when the area was still a ghost town, and we’ve been one of the longest standing places in the neighborhood. We should win the test-of-time award.

Danielle McFarland

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Jonathan HuntPosition: Chef/ownerYears in the industry: 28 yearsAl Vento, Rinata, SparksMinneapolis

I bought a certificate for a tattoo at a charity auction. I didn’t know, at the time, any tattoo that I wanted. Then one night at Rinata, the tattoo artist came in—he was a regular (Josh edwards of Rose of no Man's land—and we decided over a bottle of red wine that I wanted a tattoo of a swine head. We decide I’d come in the next week and get it done. He had a sketch ready for me when I arrived. It’s the forbidden meat.

1 5

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 5

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6 Foodservice News • October 2014

Robb Jones is the latest to join chef Gavin Kaysen's Merchant restaurant team as it prepares for its november opening. Jones, formerly of saffron, will lead the bar crew and create the cocktail menu. He's joined by Cafe Maude's Elliot Manthey. back at saffron, Nikola Govich from eat street social is taking over Jones' position.

The Minneapolis north loop is getting a new sushi restaurant as Shag prepares to open at 730 Washington Ave. n., with 1970s décor and a vegas-style bar and lounge. It’s the second sushi

spot for restaurateur and Minnesota native Michael McDermott, who owns sushi on shea in scottsdale, Arizona. McDermott is also behind Rojo Mexican Grill in st. louis park’s West end, and the recently opened ling & louie’s on nicollet Mall.

Landon Schoenefeld, chef and co-owner of HauteDish in Minneapolis, is opening his second restaurant, this time on south nicollet Avenue in the former shorty & Wags Original Chicken Wings location. Calling it Nighthawks, the concept will offer classic versions

of diner fare, with schoenefeld’s own twist, plus rotating craft beers and an apertiff drinks list from Robb Jones (saffron). part of the space will become Birdie, a separate 20-seat speakeasy-style restaurant. planned opening for nighthawks is early 2015.

Red Wagon Pizza is making its move from the farmers market to brick-and-mortar restaurant next month. Owner Peter Campbell is opening his pizzeria in the former In season space near the corner of 54th street and penn Avenue in southwest Minneapolis. He’s brought in

chef de cuisine Sean Little (Tilia, Travail, pig Ate My pizza) to run the ovens and help develop the menu.

Alan Bergo, a longtime sous chef at lenny Russo’s Heartland restaurant in st. paul, is making the move to head chef at The Salt Cellar, opening in the city’s Cathedral Hill neighborhood at selby and Western avenues next month. bergo and owners Joe kasel and kevin Geisen of eagle street Grill are planning a steakhouse and seafood concept.

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CoFFee talk

MN Cooks winner, plus James Beard dinnersSince Tracy Singleton opened The

Birchwood Café in 1995, the Minneapolis restaurant has kept its focus on fresh, local and sustainable food. singleton and chef Marshall Paulsen were recognized for that commitment during the Minnesota state Fair when they were presented with the Minnesota Cooks Jon Radle Award. Given by the Mn Farmers union during Minnesota Cooks Day, August 24, the award recognizes “a loyal commitment to further awareness and education around local foods and sustainable agriculture.”

Kim Bartmann, a James beard Outstanding Restaurateur semifinalist, and executive Chef TJ Rawitzer are teaming up with several local chefs to host a Friends of James Beard Benefit Dinner sunday, October 5, at bartmann’s Red stagg supperclub in Minneapolis. Rawitzer and guest chefs Doug Flicker of piccolo, erik Anderson of brut, sarah Master of barbette, and the Travail team of Mike brown, bob Gerken and James Winberg will prepare assorted hors d’ouevres and a five-course dinner. The menu will include wine pairings by five-time James beard award winner Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl and Annette peters of bourget Imports. Tickets are $150 ($120 for James beard Foundation

members), with proceeds supporting the foundations scholarship fund and various culinary programs. seating is limited; call 612-767-7766 for tickets.

Fellow JbF award winner Andrew Zimmern is hosting a second benefit dinner Wednesday, October 29, at the Minneapolis City Center. Chefs steven brown (Tilia), vincent Francoual (vincent A Restaurant), Jamie Malone (brut), Tim Mckee (la belle vie) and Jp samuelson (6smith) are collaborating on the menu. Tickets are $150 ($130 for James beard Foundation members); call 612-372-1234 to reserve.

Two more local chefs were welcomed to the norwegian seafood Council’s Chef’s Culinary board, joining Minneapolis chef

Jamie Malone, who helped launch the board last year. Tilia owner and executive culinary director steven brown, along with chef de cuisine paul backer are among the new members and recently traveled to new york City to cook during nORTH, a nordic Food Festival. They’ll launch a nordic-inspired menu at the restaurant this fall.

The Xcel energy Center’s Headwaters Bar & Restaurant is getting a makeover after the Minnesota Wild agreed to a deal with Jack Daniel’s. Calling it the Jack Daniel’s Old no. 7 Club, the 220-seat restaurant will debut a new menu—incorporating Jack Daniel’s products—before the nHl seasons starts this month. The agreement will also bring a Jack Daniel’s drink cart to the concourse. levy Restaurants s the food and beverage operator at Xcel.

Birchwood chef Marshall Paulsen (left) and owner Tracy Singleton (right) accept the Jon Radle Award from Doug Peterson, president of the Minnesota Farmers Union. ]

Chef and food personality Andrew Zimmern.

Paul Backer and Steven Brown.

Executive Chef TJ Rawitzer

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 7

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8 Foodservice News • October 2014

CuliNary Q & a

Todd Walker Dishes on the Local Dining Scene

TODD WAlkeR, FOX 9’s “MAn About Town” entertainment reporter, closely follows the Twin

Cities’ restaurant scene—while also taking part as a diner, of course. He can often be found hosting or emceeing a variety of events in the area, and his professional work has also included time as an executive in the corporate sector at best buy, periscope Advertising Agency, Mcnally smith College of Music, and as a talent agent, representing well-known clients in the entertainment industry. He can also be heard and read on WCCO Radio as a contributor to the “Jordan Green show,” and as a columnist for Mpls.st.paul Magazine.

Where is your favorite spot in the Twin Cities and what makes it so special?

Corner Table. Chef Thomas boehmer is a master with combining interesting and unpredictable flavors. every fork is filled with an unexpected surprise.

Where's the best place to get brunch?

Hands down it’s Hell’s kitchen for me. perfect spot to enjoy a great bloody Mary at the bar—while listening to live music—and waiting for the iconic lemon-ricotta hotcakes.

Who has the best happy hour? Forepaugh’s in st. paul has an amazing

happy hour. It runs from 4-7 p.m. and all day on sundays. Tap beer is $4 and wine and rail drinks are $5. It also has great prices on non-traditional and very tasty happy hour small plates. The setting is terrific to relax with friends or colleagues; they often have music as well.

Are you a coffee or tea drinker? Is there a place you go to that's your favorite?

It’s caffeine free for me.

What type of food does Minnesota do best?

pork! From the sausages at butcher and the boar to a Coney Island at the Gopher bar—we’ve got you covered.

What do you wish we had more of in Minnesota?

korean noodle houses—essentially Japanese soul food. simply put, we need more interesting ramen options!

What's your go-to food for the fall season?

Head to st. paul’s urban jewel Meritage for the perfect fall setting overlooking Rice park in the charming classic French bistro dining room. Menu must-haves

and my fall go-to is to indulge in an evening of moules frites (oysters and fries with béarnaise sauce, matzo ball soup, a nice bottle of wine, and of course Chef Russell klein’s amazing lamb shank topped off with a perfect crème brûlée and a cappuccino.

If you were to open up a restaurant, what would it be called and what would it serve?

I haven’t turned on my oven yet this year so I would never, eveR be foolish enough to even consider opening a restaurant!

Burger joints are plentiful in the Twin Cities. In your mind, what makes a perfect hamburger?

A burger that serves to only enhance the memory senses of what you are craving. I like a burger to be traditional but solid. save the Mexican, Italian and Asian burger for their rightful home and give me a bacon cheeseburger with barbecue sauce at the nook in st. paul.

What’s your favorite food memory from covering the industry over the years?

Attending the Food and Wine Weekend for the past two years at Madden’s in brainerd. The show brings some of

the industry’s finest chefs, mixologists and pastry wizards to Madden’s resort each August for a splendid culinary and cocktail experience. An event not to be missed!

— By Laura Michaels

Todd Walker

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 9

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By Laura Michaels

IT WAsn’T unTIl sARAH MAsTeR left barbette in 2010 to lead the kitchen at downtown Minneapolis’ Hotel Ivy

and porter & Frye restaurant that the realization struck her.

“The corporate structure just was not for me,” says Master of the hotel gig that had her dealing with room service and banquets on top of running the restaurant. After two years she made her return to uptown as barbette’s executive chef. “This place is unique because people can—and do—work here forever. It’s more of a family.”

That family atmosphere comes into play with barbette’s ever-evolving menu that relies heavily on fresh, seasonal ingredients—many of them grown on farm plots specifically for restaurateur kim bartmann’s collection of Minneapolis restaurants. “We’re very specials driven,” explains Master. “We have a lot of people who are regulars who come here two or three times a week who rely on us always to have something new.”

One such item is Master’s smoked whitefish timbale, a modern new salad-like dish she developed as fall began to set in.

barbette’s menu changes are often

collaborative. “usually my sous chefs and I sit down and have a couple beers and sort of hash out what we’re doing with the next menu,” says Master. she also continually pulls inspiration from her experience competing on AbC’s “The Taste” earlier this year.

“I can get really set in my ways with my French bistro-inspired bubble,” she says. “The experience helped remind me that every bite off that plate needs to be the most perfect bite. It really refreshed my attitude toward cooking.”

8 ounces smoked lake superior whitefish4 slices rye bread1 Tbsp butter2-3 ounces dill vinaigrette (recipe follows)4 Tbsp caper cornichon relish (recipe follows)1 orange, skin and pith removed and pulled into segments4 Tbsp creme fraiche

skin and pull apart the whitefish, discarding any grey pieces of the bloodline left on the fish.

With a cookie cutter, cut the rye bread into rounds, 2 per slice. Heat up a non-stick sauté pan and add the butter until melted. When the foaming subsides, add the cut rounds to the pan, cooking until golden brown and crispy. Flip the rounds (you may have to add a little more butter for this step) and do the same to the other side. Carefully remove from the pan and set aside.

Dill Vinaigrette1 shallot, minced1 clove garlic, minced1 Tbsp sugar2 Tbsp whole grain mustard

1/4 cup rice wine vinegar1 Tbsp vermouth1/2 cup canola oil1/4 cup olive oil2 tsp fresh dill, minced

Mix everything together in an airtight container. you will need to be able to shake it up just before plating the salad.

Caper Cornichon Relish2 Tbsp capers, minced4 Tbsp cornichons, minced1 shallot, minced1 Tbsp chives, minced1 Tbsp olive oil

Mix everything together.

To build the salad:Toss the whitefish with the vinaigrette

and the orange segments.  On 4 plates, put one tablespoon of creme fraiche and thinly spread out as a base for the timbale.  next, place on round of rye on the creme fraiche. Top it with the whitefish, another round of rye, another dollop of whitefish, then the caper relish.

serve immediately.

Executive Chef Sarah Master keeps the menu fresh at Barbette with ever-changing specials.

Smoked Whitefish Timbale, Rye Croutons, Dill Vinaigrette, Caper Cornichon Relish, Orange (serves 4)

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10 Foodservice News • October 2014

CuliNary Curiosities

Cheers to YouAnother version of bread and wine, or why we toast the physical health of our family and friends

by Julie Brown-Micko

IT WOulD be sAD TO THInk THAT THe only toasts we hear anymore occur at weddings. Really, it’s a rich and

convivial tradition that surely deserves to be enjoyed in more than a chilly reception hall or at an overcrowded new year's eve party. Raising a glass to the health and wealth of those dear to us has been with us since the first hollowed out gourd. let’s brush the dust off and reclaim this celebratory act before it ossifies with that questionable slice of wedding cake in the back of the freezer.

When we toast someone, we honor them with words of praise and good wishes while drinking. We can guess that the first toasts stemmed from offering a sacrifice to the gods, pouring out a bit of the liquid while asking for blessings. Greeks and Romans had specific rituals to venerate gods and men—particularly the emperor—with words and wine. Toasts for the ancients were uttered at weddings, funerals, the birth of children and the like, important ways to mark love, grief, victory and loss.

but why do we call it a “toast?” That

goes back to the 17th century when bread, often stale and sometimes burned, was added to wine. some historians argue that the blackened crust would add charcoal to the wine, cutting down the acidity, making it more palatable. Most likely the loaf was spiced or studded with fruit that gave the drink more flavor. supposedly when gentlemen would drink to a lady’s good health, they “toasted” her, suggesting that she, like the bread, gave a boost to the beverage. (you’ve heard the phrase “the toast of the town.”) If a man were in love with a woman, he might even cut his arm, adding his blood to the cup as a gesture of his adoration. Then somewhere along the line someone slurped champagne out of a woman’s shoe … you can see how this would get out of hand.

It was only natural, then, that a “toastmaster” would emerge: someone to organize a long night of toasting, making sure no long-winded speeches or wild behavior derailed the celebration. so important was this role that “toastmaster’s glasses” were made: they were the same size as the guests' but with a thick glass bottom that limited the amount the cup could

hold. Apparently, a sober master of ceremonies makes for a smoother party. Toastmasters International still exists today, focused on helping people master the art of public speaking.

some traditions believe it’s rude to refuse to drink, to have an empty glass or to not touch glasses with everyone at your table. nowadays it’s perfectly acceptable to toast with water or a non-alcoholic beverage. And in many cases it’s near impossible to tap your glass to every other, so depending on logistics, do your best.

The tradition of clinking glasses is one that’s difficult to parse. Apocryphal tales suggest the noise of the glasses touching would scare away evil spirits, or would be a guard against poisoning—the knock of the cup would cause the wines to slosh and mingle, preventing a host from poisoning a guest or vice versa. but there is no evidence to support this. some have offered that drinking touches on all the senses but one—sound. This may or may not be true, but who can argue that the clink of glassware raises one’s spirits?

I believe there is no celebration too small or humble that cannot benefit

from a toast. so, if you are enjoying a holiday meal, a special dinner, or even taco Tuesday at home, consider making a toast. A simple “cheers” will do, or say a few words from the heart. If nothing springs to mind, borrow from the past. I’m partial to the poet lord byron’s suggestion: “let us have wine and women, mirth and laughter/sermons and soda-water the day after.” Or, even better, as the great writer and humanist Rabelais put it, “Come, let us drink!”

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 11

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12 Foodservice News • October 2014

up with Twisted Fork Grille and in 2010 converted half the space to a concept more focused on sandwiches and upscale entrées than pizza. “It’s in the exact same location but they each have totally different customers,” says Dzubnar. “We’re able to capture more customers with different offerings.”

That same year Dzubnar met pete Rifakes, the founder of Town Hall brewery at the seven Corners intersection in Minneapolis, and a partnership formed. They’ve since opened two similar brewpubs, slightly re-concepted and with different names: Town Hall Tap near Minnehaha Falls and Town Hall lanes, a bowling alley in the lake nokomis area. each is tailored to the neighborhood’s demographics, says Dzubnar, with a fourth iteration in the works in northeast Minneapolis.

That aforementioned diversification continues with Crooked pint Ale House (downtown Minneapolis and Apple valley), which Dzubnar owns with some of his Green Mill partners, and sweet pea’s public House in st. paul. Concept no. 6, however, is a departure from that neighborhood approach.

“What this concept is going to be, uptown doesn’t have,” says Dzubnar of the 7,500-square-foot restaurant he’s installing in The Walkway, the mixed-use development at lake street and Girard Avenue that’s also home to Coup d'état.

Calling it scena on lake, Dzubnar says the 300-seat restaurant will offer American fare with Italian and Mediterranean influences at multiple price points. The space will include two bars and two patios spread over two levels.

“I’ve spent more than 100 of my own hours researching this concept,” says Dzubnar. “It’s going to be different than Coup d'état, which is mostly small plates, and have a menu with broader appeal.”

The original plan called for scena to open before the end of the year, but delays make an early 2015 debut seem more likely, something Dzubnar isn’t too worried about.

“I’d rather do it right the first time rather than rush it,” he says.” He’s also working on a seventh concept, Harriet’s at 40th and lyndale in south Minneapolis, which is shaping up as a

pub similar to sweet pea’s.Dzubnar says the creation of each

concept provided its own learning experiences, and after 12 years he’s picked up some wisdom he’ll gladly share with others considering a restaurateur’s life.

• know the neighborhood. Dzubnar, a White bear lake native living in st. paul, says he wouldn’t be as successful if he selected sites outside the Twin Cites. “Around here I know what the price per foot should be and I know based on my concept what I can afford … you really need to understand the neighborhood. That’s maybe the most important of all.”

• Once you know the area, choose the right site. “Whether you buy or lease your real estate, choosing the site is probably one of the

most important decisions you’ll ever make,” says Dzubnar. know your kitchen and cooler needs, and the demographics and foot traffic necessary to be successful, then find a site that meets those criteria. “And you’ve gotta get it at the price you know you can afford. Think about it as keeping occupancy costs at X percent of your sales.”

• learn the business from the inside out. As a Green Mill district manager, Dzubnar worked every position, from bartender to pizza cook, among others, and relies on that experience often. “The best way to be successful in the restaurant business is to know every nook and cranny, every nuance of your business,” he says. “It will help you down the road when you run into problems and you can help guide the people in those positions because you’ve been there.”

• understand the financials. “At the end of the day it’s a business,” says Dzubnar. “look at the balance sheet as a tool to improve your businesses. It shows your strengths as well as your weaknesses.”

• love hospitality. “no matter what you’re doing, no matter what your price point is, you really have to be focused on making people happy. you have to be a diehard customer-service person.”

keep reading for more tips and advice from some of the Twin Cities’ best in pR and real estate—plus some management wisdom from chef and owner vincent Francoual.

Skip the Grand Opening Party

Alexis Walsko of Lola Red Public Relations in Minneapolis is the Chief Officer of Fun around her office, so for her to tell you not to have a party is advice you might want to heed. Here is why you shouldn’t plan a party to coincide with your grand opening.

• your staff—and yes, even you—are not ready. your first few opening weeks should be reserved for getting in the groove of doing business and fine-tuning operations.  Find the A-game for your business and show that off post-grand opening.

• Most likely, you do not have enough square footage to properly entertain all the people you’ll want to invite. service rooms, break rooms and offices are not places where people want to linger and schmooze at a cocktail party.

• If you are tempted to get a tent for the parking lot: stop, drop and roll immediately. This is an unnecessary expense that will impact paying guests coming to your location. Consider a tent two to three months post opening when you have a rhythm of business and something to celebrate.

So when is the right time to party?

According to Walsko:• At least three weeks after opening,

when you’ve worked out the kinks and made sure everyone is comfortable with business operations so you can charm and impress all of your guests.

• When you, as the owner, can confidently say all elements of your location are “done.”  you are not waiting on additional signage, lights, products or collateral. 

And when you do party Walsko suggests setting goals to help you curate the invite list, such as do you want media coverage, new customers, current customers, or community members? And then plan accordingly.

Find Real Estate Gold

since joining Cassidy Turley Commercial Real Estate Services in 2001, Andrea Christenson has worked on hundreds of retail and tenant transactions, representing some of the Twin Cities top restaurant operators. Among her clients are 123 sushi, barrio, Masu, new bohemian and Dunn bros, and she’s also handled projects for parasole Restaurants and buffalo Wild Wings. The real estate pro knows the types of sites owners are looking for, and with more than a decade of local experience she also knows how and where to find them. Here’s how she approaches this all-important process.

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Learning From the Pros | page 13

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 13

• For starters, says Christenson, she needs to know her client’s financial plan, consider demographics and how much traffic is necessary to turn a profit. Once she provides a list of sites, it becomes a game of pros and cons. “I need you to tell me what you do and don’t like about every site,” she says. “because in 30 days I need to think like you think.”

• Don’t take the first offer.

Christenson tells her clients to have their architect and construction manager review the site before the lease is signed. “Have these experts lined up so you can price out the project and go back to the landlord with a counteroffer you know is reasonable.”

• stay ahead of the game. Christenson keeps an eye on the market and is constantly asking about tenants who perhaps are paying rent late or otherwise on the verge of closing. “The best thing you can do for the client is be out in front of it,” she says. “I want to know about [a site] before it goes to market.” This helps her find real estate “gold,” those coveted second-generation restaurant spaces that already have the proper plumbing, HvAC and electricity.

• provide added value. In a business that’s all about relationships, says Christenson, “I network, network, network. you need to have roots in each relationship. I’m able to make introductions for my clients to other people who can help them. I don’t make money off that, but it’s something extra I can do for my clients.”

• Her last piece of advice? Don’t overextend yourself. “I see

operators who knock it out of the park with their first one, then they open a second location without the reserves to make it.”

Success Means Showing Up

The term “micromanagement” usually comes with negative connotations. not so for Vincent Francoual.

“I don’t know what people are

afraid of about that,” says the chef and owner of vincent, A Restaurant, which celebrated its 13th anniversary this summer. “I start with a lot of micromanagement [when hiring someone new in the kitchen]. Then you kind of back off that a bit and it’s more leadership than management. As you go you enlist new leaders.”

Francoual learned that finding those eventual leaders means starting with the right attitude. From there, “I can teach you,” he says. so what makes a cook’s attitude “right” to Francoual? enthusiasm, ambition, respect and, ultimately, real-time experience. “you never know how good they are until they’re under fire,” he says.

Food-cost management is equally important to the restaurant’s success and requires not only a tight inventory—Francoual uses Food-Trak software to manage this—but also a deeper appreciation for the food itself. “There’s a misconnection between how food is produced and the people who prepare it,” says Francoual. Food is sacred, he continues, and imparting that philosophy to the kitchen staff means less food waste as they understand its implications.

In the end, says Francoual, a restaurant’s success is earned. “If you want to keep it tidy and tight, you have to be there. There’s a human factor you have to take into consideration. On a busy night, I’m still on the line. you need to have that connection.”

Learning From the Pros | from page 12

Andrea Christenson, vice president at Cassidy Turley. Vincent Francoual, chef and owner

of Vincent, A Restaurant.

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14 Foodservice News • October 2014

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By Robert Lillegard

WHen yOu AlReADy OWn One of Duluth’s largest restaurants (black Woods on london Road,

which seats 350), it’s a fairly aggressive move to open an even larger one. but with 500 seats, Tavern on the Hill is black Woods Group’s not-so-subtle declaration that it’s playing to win.

The company already owns three locations of black Woods, the Greysolon ballroom event space, and a catering division, along with cocktail lounge black Water. Tavern GM Travis Thoreson, who spent four years in that role at the london Road location, says the new spot has its sights set on, well, everyone.

“Any age demographic, any background, can find something on the menu they like,” Thoreson says. “We haven’t pigeonholed ourselves into one ideology.”

That much is apparent with a glance at the menu. It reads like a consultant’s dream, or a “10 trends in dining” article come to life. To wit: homemade moonshine in mason jars, made-to-order pizzas, and beers that range from exotic to hipster to local. A fresh juice bar, a grab-

and-go counter, curbside dining and a loyalty program. you just know the vegan and gluten-free items are assiduously marked on the menu and the art on those walls is local. even the ingredients are trendy: chayote squash, sriracha, quinoa, chia, bison.

There are also subtle touches. On the way to the outdoor dining area there’s a basket of blankets for those “cool patio nights” (even early fall in Duluth may mean 46-degree temperatures). In the men’s room, the hip-looking jet-black urinals are stacked with ice, which seems to remove odor. If you work in or write about the industry, it all comes across as tightly calculated. According to Thoreson, that’s far from a coincidence.

“bryan [Flaherty], the owner, is continually forwarding us articles on new trends from restaurants east to west,” Thoreson says. “The office receives every restaurant/foodservice publication. [It’s] travel, research in person.”

Choosing the restaurant’s staff was equally rigorous. The company held two separate multi-day job fairs, one at Greysolon ballroom and another at the Tavern itself, which attracted nearly 1,000 applicants. In addition, Thoreson has been speaking with applicants in person daily since spring. He hired more than 150 people, including several young people attending one of the two colleges within two miles of the restaurant.

“As soon as I accepted the position as general manager was when I started interviewing,” Thoreson says. “six months long of interviewing every single day, saying no a lot more than you say yes.”

The company hires year-round and doesn’t staff up or down seasonally. Duluth restaurant traffic typically sees a bump during the summer tourist season and some restaurants staff accordingly, but with Tavern’s close proximity to colleges and the upscale, youth-oriented bluestone lofts housing development, it’s likely to see substantial year-round traffic. That’s bolstered by college-friendly amenities like the grab-and-go fresh marketplace.

“I fully expect it to be a rather large portion of our business,” Thoreson says of the marketplace. “[Otherwise] it’s a whole lot of real estate square footage that’s not getting you any sales. The plan is to make that a focal point of the business.”

The restaurant hasn’t been without its missteps. At press time, TripAdvisor rated it 166 out of 229 with three votes for “average” and two for “poor.” When a friend tells you she’s dined there three times and had some major issue each time, or you’re put on hold for 11 minutes trying to follow up on an interview (with no results), or when each visit brings an entertaining new service flaw, it’s easy to see why. On the other hand, the

restaurant’s only been open a month. “When you throw 150

employees into a building there’s no real way

to test that

volume until you’re in it,” Thoreson says. “We knew going into it there were going to be hiccups.”

Hiccups or not, the restaurant is often packed. The list of new arrivals in Duluth is growing, and the big players often get the biggest accolades: Chipotle, Qdoba, a second location of starbucks, buffalo Wild Wings and others have all arrived to great fanfare. For the small independent Duluth restaurant, the arrival of Tavern on the Hill may be a comforting reminder that a local restaurant group can still stand up against the national chains. Or, it may be a troubling warning that the smallest independents will be the next to fall.

“We don’t single out,” Thoreson says. “Anybody that’s in the foodservice industry in a town of this size is a direct competitor.”

GM Travis Thoreson says Tavern on the Hill has something for everyone.

Power PlayTavern on the Hill asserts dominance, but not without stumbles

Photo by Robert LillegardPhoto from

Ttavern on the Hill Facebook page

Tavern on the Hill’s menu offers options with trendy ingredients,

such as the coconut and chia shrimp.

Black Woods Group packs the latest trends into its newest restaurant, Tavern on the Hill in Duluth.

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 15

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16 Foodservice News • October 2014

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Cathedral Hill there are already nearly a dozen restaurants and coffee shops on selby Avenue from Dale street to Western Avenue. Throw in the st. paul Curling Club’s seasonal operations and parking is at a premium. but despite pleas for parking relief from residents and neighboring restaurant owners, the city council isn’t being asked to add a license condition that would require a lease for off-site valet parking. salt Cellar has just 13 off-street parking spaces, even though it could have as many as 150 seats.

“We’ve reached a tipping point,” said John Rupp, owner of restaurant W.A. Frost. He and Charles senkler of Fabulous Fern’s said the neighborhood is getting to the point where restaurant owners will have to police their lots, and possibly tag and tow violators.

“you’re creating a range war for parking in the neighborhood,” senkler said.

More than three dozen project foes and supporters packed a september 4 legislative hearing to debate the area’s parking situation and to call for a city-led parking study. salt Cellar will open in a building that housed laska Drugstore for many years. It also housed gallery and teaching space for the College of visual Arts. The college closed in June 2013 and the building has been vacant since.

The new restaurant is owned by the same partnership behind seven Corners’ popular eagle street Grill.

Daniel scott, attorney for the owners, said his clients have met all of the city regulations. The owners plan to lease parking from the northern star Council boys scouts of America, who own property to the north at Marshall and Western avenues. That 86-space lot will be used for valet service.

“My clients have done everything they’re legally required to do,” scott said. He objected to the idea of adding

an off-site parking lease as a license condition, saying that goes above and beyond what is required.

nhia vang, the city’s legislative hearing officer, however, favored adding the lease as a license condition. “Obviously we have heard that parking is an issue,” she said. “What I have heard is an overwhelming need for parking.”

City staff confirmed salt Cellar’s site plan for 13 spaces meets requirements, when the previous college use and the city’s current, less stringent parking requirements for restaurants and liquor licenses are factored in. Department

of safety and Inspections (DsI) staff also opposed making the valet lease agreement one of the conditions because of concerns about how it would be monitored and what would happen if a lease ended.

The issue stems from a May 2012 regulation change when parking requirements for restaurants were altered. previously restaurants serving alcohol were required to provide one off-street parking spot for every 100 to 125 square feet of total floor area. With the change, only one parking space per 400 square feet of floor area is required. Factor in previous building uses and grandfathered in parking variances, and new restaurants have to provide much less parking than they did before. For example, a restaurant measuring 10,000 square feet would now need to come up with 25 parking spots, instead of the 80 needed under the old regulations. (For bars, it’s one space for every 150 square feet, instead of one for every 100 to 125 square feet.)

Council member Russ stark originally brought forth the change, in response to concerns from constituents and prospective business owners who wanted dining spots to walk to in their neighborhoods. At the time, stark said the change “does a nice job of delineating between the kinds of institutions that can cause late-night issues, from those that are mostly just serving wine with dinner.”

There are only a handful of cases

where the regulations have kicked in. Council members said they have not heard complaints about restaurants opening or expanding under the new regulations, including Groundswell in Hamline-Midway, which expanded into a former yarn shop.

St. Paul Roundup

Saint Dinette, a new spot from owners Tim niver and chef J.D. Fratzke of The strip Club restaurant, will open in the retail space of the Rayette lofts, kitty corner from the lowertown Farmers Market on Fifth street.

Bad Weather Brewing is preparing to open a new brewery and taproom in a former West 7th street tire installation and sales business. Founders zac Carpenter and Joe Giambruno are moving from the space they share with lucid brewing in Minnetonka.

Café Latte celebrated 30 years on Grand Avenue last month, with owners peter and linda Quinn hosting a party september 21 to mark the anniversary. since opening in 1984, the bakery and cafeteria has tripled in size and added a pizza and wine bar.

Roundtable Coffee Works has opened on Territorial Road, following a successful fundraising campaign. The coffeehouse also does coffee roasting and whole bean sales.

Parking Matters | from page 1

“You’re creating a range war for parking in the

neighborhood.” — Fabulous Fern’s owner Charles Senkler

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 17

Join us August 10th, 2015 for the 30th annual Tournamentat the Minnesota Valley Country Club.

Thank you to all that supported us this year anda special thank you to our hole sponsors!

Money raised for the 2014 Toby Tournament was over $25,000! Over the past 29 years, Toby has generated money for scholarships that benefit our local culinary and hospitality students at UW Stout and all of Minnesota.

Thank you to all of our loyal Toby supporters who sponsored a hole this year!

To get involved, please contact Andrea Gustafson, Toby Chair952-594-4046 • [email protected]

www.TobyTournament.org

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18 Foodservice News • October 2014

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 19

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Pairing ProfessionsReal estate and waiting tables takes advantage of delayed and instant gratification

By Nancy Weingartner

THeRe’s MORe MysTeRy TO restaurants than just spoons disappearing in the trash. There’s

the sleight of hand where dishes miraculously appear just as the guest is starting to check his watch—or the replacement napkin discreetly shows up before the guest realizes it's fallen off his lap.

While for some people serving is a way station on their journey to another career, for John bares of Oceanaire in downtown Minneapolis, it’s a magical way to blend the consistency of foodservice with peaks and valleys of real estate sales.

“A server’s challenge is to find a restaurant busy enough where you can budget for your family and lifestyle,” he says. Finding financial stability via restaurants isn't always easy to do in today’s economy, which is why many servers string together several serving gigs along with a second career.

The irregularity of closing real estate deals—just like an empty restaurant—can be hard to bank on.

but when a contract needs to be presented or a house shown, it’s not difficult to find someone to cover at your “day job.” “everyone is looking for more shifts,” bares says.

The commission from real estate sales is delayed gratification, he adds, while a tip is instant gratification.

pairing waiting tables with real estate sales is becoming more common in the Twin Cities, bares says, in part because he’s been an evangelist for blending the two careers and in part because technology has made it easy to both multi-task and stay in touch with clients. plus, when you’ve worked as an owner, manager, wine captain and opener for a host of the tony restaurants in and out of town for almost 40 years, the list of contacts in your smartphone becomes a who’s who of Twin Cities diners. “What’s that movie… oh, yes, 'six Degrees of separation,'” he says, about the people he knows.

bares didn’t start out to claim foodservice as his career, but in retrospect, he says, every twist and turn has led him to become a better server.

He grew up in a German Catholic family with seven brothers and sisters in st. Cloud and then sauk Rapids, Minnesota. He comes from a politically connected family; his father was in the House of Representatives and uncles held elected positions in their communities. In high school bares started as a busboy at a perkins restaurant with a fancy name—perkins in the pines—and worked his way through all the stations. He attended the university of Minnesota with the intent to become a music teacher, concentrating his studies in piano and voice. (We think he’s wasting his talents working at a restaurant where they won’t let him sing “Happy birthday” to the guests, but he just laughs and says “no one wants a scene,” except perhaps if you’re at a family-style dining establishment. “I do sometimes sing ‘Happy birthday’ very quietly (to regulars on their birthdays),” he adds, quietly.)

In college he made the trek between the perkins he managed in st. Cloud and the university. “Fortunately the speed limit was 70 mph then,” he says, grinning.

Music was his passion, but he “fell in love with the restaurant business,” he says. “There’s a great deal of gratitude that comes with the people you work with and also in the guest relationships over the years,” bares says.

And it’s a small community. During his career he’s worked with some of the same people in numerous different venues.

Customers also become part of the family. An attorney he’s served regularly for years offered to do his legal work when he went into real estate—gratis. “And he still tips well,” bares says with a laugh. The same guest just bought a house from him and bares is hoping the attorney will take him up on his offer to cater his housewarming party as an instance of paying backward.

bares has spent a lot of shifts in management over the years. His switch

from boss to server isn’t unique—especially once a manager notices how much servers make in much fewer hours. He joined lakes Area Realty, but didn't go on to get his broker's license, he says, because that would be too much like management. Manage, no; mentor, yes.

In his 30s, bares discovered real estate, when his marriage ended and he sold his share of a restaurant and bought a fourplex. He also went back to college.

He took a year-and-a-half of advanced-degree classes with the intent to become a clinical psychologist, then decided that relationships in restaurants were much more enriching than therapy sessions could ever be.

“It’s a big extended family,” he says of foodservice: A family that’s addicted to the rush of a new restaurant opening and the promise of lots of money.

“I'm not motivated by money,” he says, although he does like good wine. “I like the exhilaration” of serving a crowd of people experiencing a new restaurant. “If you do things well the money will follow.”

Tips for serving

Just like every guest is unique (as is every real estate client), so are servers. so when we asked what motivates the

younger generation, he shrugged his shoulders. not everyone should be a server, he points out. “some don’t belong and the manager needs to be more aware of moving them along to the next career,” bares says.

Good servers, however, do the following:

• learn to read each table. If a guest is shy, tone it down. If the guests want to play, turn up the personality.

• Anticipate needs. A guest pushing away a plate means he or she is finished. but if everyone at a business lunch waits for the last person to finish their meal, remove all the plates at once.

• If a regular is having a business meeting, you can talk before their guests arrive, but once they do, it’s time to retreat to the background and not be intrusive as you take orders and bring dishes.

• Remember regulars' preferences—such as no straw in their drink; black coffee, no sugar, after a meal, etc.

• Micromanage your section of the dining room, but never the restaurant.

John Bares, who has been a server at Oceanaire for three years, has found waiting tables and real estate complement each other.

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20 Foodservice News • October 2014

build dishes where we haven’t had to compromise the quality of the menu.”

Doing so involved a top-to-bottom menu redesign when Moran joined the Dakota in 2011. smaller plates were added, he explains, with carefully prepared ingredients ready for smooth pickup off the line. For example: “by picking an item like pork tenderloin sourced from a small farmer in Iowa, the portion size is already cut smaller and we’re able to get it out in less than 8 minutes, with proper cooking technique.” Accompanying the tenderloin is a grain side of millet, chia and quinoa, with a beet puree and créme fraîche. “They’re essentially all cold or room temperature,” says Moran of the additional ingredients, “so we’re able to basically use one pan.”

Moran, who spent time at porter & Frye, Trattoria Tosca and led the kitchen at nick and eddie, also knows the Dakota kitchen requires a specific kind of cook. “We look for cooks that are high energy, excited to learn and can replicate things very quickly,” he says.

pairing music with food creates an environment with its own unique set of challenges, some which begin before a guest even enters the restaurant.

“It’s a work in progress to help them understand they can make an evening of it,” says Jason Mclean, who owns loring pasta bar and the varsity Theater in Dinkytown. “We like it if people can connect going to a show [at the varsity]

with having dinner here.”because the two are separate venues,

co-branding becomes even more important and it’s something Mclean said is an ongoing effort. Those who bring in their show ticket can get 10 percent off dinner at the restaurant, and each venue's website promotes the other. pre-shift briefings involve educating restaurant servers on show details, adds Mclean, so they in turn can educate guests.

That guest education comes into play

daily at the Dakota. “some of our box office calls can last a half hour,” says priadka, with questions ranging from if a show ticket includes dinner [no, but a premium dinner seating package is available] to how early should they arrive. “Getting people to come at 5:30 or 6 p.m. [to eat] when a show is at 7 is an education process, definitely.”

And like Mclean in Dinkytown, the Dakota also faces a perception problem.

“The typical challenge is that people don’t think of you as a restaurant,” says priadka of the Dakota’s mainly music venue reputation. “We fly under the

radar. people don’t think, ‘Oh, I want to go to dinner, why don’t I go to the Dakota.’ ”

The Dakota’s “Foodie nights” and wine lunches are part of the effort to draw attention to the food and drink. During both, it’s what’s on the table—not on stage—that’s the focus. Foodie nights offer no cover shows and chef specials from Moran while the lunches bring together a musician and winemaker in a more intimate setting.

“It is music first, food second most days,” says Moran. “… but when people do eat I want them to enjoy it.”

Mixing Music With Menus | from page 1

Executive Chef Derik Moran executes a high quality menu at the Dakota while averaging 12-minute ticket times.

Set for a show at the Varsity Theater.

Photo by Travis Anderson

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 21

mN hospitality expo

Building BusinessIndustry leaders showcase their best products and talk latest trends

For more expo photos visit FSN’s Facebook page.

THe ATMOspHeRe AT THe sT. pAul RiverCentre was most hospitable Tuesday, september 16, as nearly

200 booths filled the exhibit hall for the inaugural Minnesota Hospitality expo.

With vendors offering services from accounting and payroll to marketing, design and real estate, attendees were able to learn about the local companies ready to help them build their businesses. Foodservice distributors, including platinum sponsor upper lakes Foods, were on hand to showcase their offerings, as were other restaurant suppliers and beverage companies.

The day was also one of education, with several seminars providing insight on ways to grow sales and attract customers with the latest menu trends. stuart Gray of 4 Remarkable service discussed server training tactics and the importance of guiding guests from the moment they walk through the door. some of Gray’s tips were: Hold a pre-shift meeting to set the tone and address server questions; don’t approach a table with negative thoughts; and as a subtle upsell, ask guests what special occasions they’re celebrating in the next month, then suggest adding a gift card.

keynote speaker Jackie Rodriguez, a senior manager with foodservice researcher Technomic, focused her talk on understanding the consumers who drive the nearly $450 billion in restaurant sales nationwide.

• Research shows affordable price, fresh and high quality food, value of overall experience, prompt service, and accurate orders are the five most important factors for diners. “value doesn’t necessarily mean low prices,”

noted Rodriguez, “but instead was the meal and experience worth the price paid.”

• Consumers attach meaning to words such as “artisanal” and “handcrafted.” using those and other descriptors on menus increase perceived value. Calling out sustainable and responsible sourcing of ingredients is also smart, said Rodriguez, as 60 percent of consumer say they want to know the meat or poultry is hormone- or steroid-free.

• Rodriguez noted only 21 percent of consumers surveyed said technology—ipad, kiosk ordering, etc.—was a factor when choosing a restaurant. If it’s there, however, 83 percent said they’d use it and appreciate the convenience and speed, particularly when paying the check.

Minnesota’s craft beer industry was another expo attraction, with seven local brewers competing for awards and offering samples in The brewhouse. The Top Mug award for best overall beer went to Flat earth brewing for its Cygnus X-1 porter, while lift bridge brewing took the beste bier stein award for its Oktoberfest brew. Also participating were brau brothers, excelsior brewing, summit, Third street and Tin Whiskers; 2 Gingers Whiskey and Chankaska Winery rounded out the alcoholic offerings.

Mark your calendars: The expo, put on by Hospitality Minnesota and its restaurant, lodging, and resort and campground associations, will return to the RiverCentre next year on Tuesday, september 29.

Story and photos by Laura Michaels

Saint Agnes Baking CEO Dan “Klecko” McGleno talks about the importance of a good hamburger bun during his expo demo.

Ready to talk with attendees at the Heartland Payment Systems booth are Lorin Wilson and Dre Barthel.

Hospitality Minnesota’s Dan McElroy (left) presents the Top Mug award to Flat Earth Brewing.

Lift Bridge takes the Beste Bier Stein award for its Oktoberfest brew.

The family behind Upper Lakes Foods debuts its updated traveling kitchen at the expo. Left to right: Mitch Ryan, Susan Ryan, Pat Sorensen, Craig Ryan and Scott Sorensen.

The American Fish & Seafood team ready for action at the expo.

Joe Horwath, Jasmin Whiting and Mark Erdman offer website development and online marketing services with Evolve Systems.

*Chef Stewart Woodman Talks Food & Menu Trends• IN: shareable menu items. “They’re

huge and they’re going to stay huge.”• IN: House-cured meats. “Charcuterie

plates are popular in just about every market.”

• IN: sides menus. “by selling sides you can add to your check average and potentially control your entrée portion size.”

• IN: korean ingredients. kim chi, gochuang, short-grain (ssal) rice “are the next big opportunities.”

• ON THEIR WAY OUT: Tacos. “They might be more like flatbread—they’re here for awhile but kind of losing their appeal.”

• OUT: Healthy kids menus. “I don’t know that I would go all-in on this one.”

*Woodman is the culinary director for Kaskaid Hospitality.

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22 Foodservice News • October 2014

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 23

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24 Foodservice News • October 2014

WHen We THInk AbOuT government actions that impact our business, it’s logical

to think first of decisions made by the federal government in Washington, D.C., or by the state government in st. paul. The national Restaurant Association spends an enormous amount of time and energy working with Congress and federal agencies on a wide range of issues including health care, immigration, taxes, food and nutrition regulations and many others. The Minnesota Restaurant Association spends much of its attention at the legislature and before state agencies.

lately, however, tracking activity in Washington and st. paul doesn’t cover all the bases. We’ve been paying a lot of attention to and spending time on city government issues that impact restaurants. Minneapolis has had the most recent activity. some of the local issues you should know about include:

• Two Minneapolis City Council members, Alondra Cano and Jacob Frey, have announced an interest in raising the minimum wage in the city to $15 an hour, following the example set in seattle. Council member Frey has asked the city attorney for an opinion on whether the city has the authority for a local minimum wage. The MRA board hasn’t taken a position on this yet, but we will likely be part of a broad coalition of business groups that will be engaged in this discussion and will have concerns.

• The Minneapolis City Council on september 19 voted 12-0 to replace

the current food-to-alcohol ratios that required at least 60 percent of revenues come from food with new language that better defines a restaurant as opposed to a bar or nightclub. Restaurants will follow new rules regarding the hours they must serve food and provide specific alcohol service training. The MRA has been very engaged on this issue, along with other restaurant owners, for almost two years.

• The Minneapolis Charter Commission has placed a question on the november election ballot to remove the 70/30 food-to-alcohol ratio and other restrictions on neighborhood restaurants. Regardless of whether your restaurant is affected, please support “vOTe yes On 2.” This is an important step for the entire industry, as we work to strengthen our growing national reputation as a great foodie community.

• Minneapolis passed an environmentally Friendly packaging (envAp) ordinance in May that is effective on earth Day, April 22, 2015. envAp requires all packaging for ready-to-eat food in restaurants and other foodservice outlets be reusable, recyclable or compostable. Further, guests must be provided an easy way to separate their waste in the restaurant. There is a working group that has been formed to write detailed rules and regulations for implementing this ordinance.

• The City of Richfield is considering changes to its ordinance that requires odor control equipment for many restaurants.

• Red Wing is developing an ordinance on grease handling to prevent sewer blockages in the city.

• edina is expected to take up changes in its food to alcohol regulations later this year.

When one city passes an ordinance on a particular issue, it increases the chance of other cities, counties or the state following its example. smoking bans started as city initiatives and spread fairly quickly, ending in the adoption by the state of the Freedom to breathe Act in 2007. The same thing is happening now with restriction on e-cigarettes.

City restrictions often cause competitive problems and an unlevel playing field for businesses in neighboring communities. Restaurants that could allow guests to smoke in Anoka or Dakota counties had a temporary advantage over competitors in Ramsey and Hennepin counties. There is also a real challenge for those with locations in multiple communities to run some restaurants under a different set of rules. The environmentally friendly packaging ordinance will have supply chain issues for companies with units in Minneapolis and in other communities.

It is helpful when our members let us know about local issues and proposals.

We watch the media carefully, but don’t always know about issues when they first surface. The sooner we can get engaged, the most helpful we can be. Reach me via email at [email protected].

Hopefully you had a chance to attend the first Minnesota Hospitality expo at the st. paul RiverCentre last month. Our thanks to upper lakes Foods, the platinum sponsor, and to the other great companies that were sponsors and exhibitors. please mark your calendar now for the 2015 Hospitality expo at RiverCentre on Tuesday, september 29, 2015. Member committees will develop the education program. your suggestions are welcome and are very helpful.

dan Mcelroy is executive vice president of the Minnesota restaurant Association and president and CeO of hospitality Minnesota, which also includes the Lodging and resort & Campground associations. Find hospitality Minnesota online at www.hospitalitymn.org.

miNNesota restauraNt assoCiatioN report

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 25

Commodities report

Authorized Service and Parts forFoodservice Equipment, Refrigeration and HVAC

Call: (952) 944-5800 / (800) 279-9980email: [email protected] Those Who Feed the Nation

BEEF-prices are by the pound and based on f.o.b. Omaha carlot. 8/28/14 7/31/14 Difference 8/29/13Ground beef 81/19 2.58 2.66 <0.08> 1.92168 Inside Round (ch.) 2.90 3.15 <0.25> 2.07180 1x1 strp (choice) 5.59 6.00 <0.41> 4.41112a Ribeye (choice) 7.24 7.17 0.07 6.80189a Tender (select) 10.53 10.24 0.29 8.58189a Tender (choice) 11.28 10.26 1.02 9.44veal Rack (Hotel 7 rib) 8.97 9.25 <0.28> 8.23veal Top Rnd(cp. off) 15.60 15.33 0.27 14.80

OIL AND RICE-prices per pound based on usDA Reports. 8/28/14 7/31/14 Difference 8/29/13Crude soybean Oil .345 .370 <0.025> .436 Crude Corn Oil .380 .380 - .385 Rice, long Grain .283 .286 <0.003> .291 DAIRY-prices are by the pound and based on usDA reports.Cheese 8/28/14 7/31/14 Difference 8/29/13American 2.34 2.13 0.21 1.87 Cheddar (40#) 2.31 2.09 0.22 2.07 Mozzarella 2.45 2.23 0.22 1.92 butter(AA) One pound solids 2.74 2.47 0.27 1.43 Class II CreamCream 3.53 3.54 <0.01> 1.87

PORK-prices are by the pound and based on f.o.b. Omaha carlot. 8/28/14 7/31/14 Difference 8/29/13belly (bacon) 1.11 1.32 <0.22> 1.55 spare Rib (3.5& down) 1.72 1.82 <0.10> 1.58 Ham (23-27#) 0.94 1.45 <0.51> 0.92 bbybck Rib (2-1.75#) 2.44 2.60 <0.16> 2.19 Tenderloin (1.25#) 2.69 2.87 <0.18> 2.24 POULTRY-prices are by the pound except for eggs (dozen) and based on usDA reports.Chicken 8/28/14 7/31/14 Difference 8/29/13Whole birds (2.5-3#) 1.13 1.13 - 1.07Wings 1.46 1.41 0.05 1.46 bone In breast 1.27 1.29 <0.02> 1.23 bnless skinless breast 2.16 2.20 <0.04> 2.05 Eggs large 1.15 1.41 <0.26> 1.16 Medium 0.89 0.95 <0.06> 0.96 Miscellaneous Whole Turkeys (8-16#) 1.10 1.09 0.01 1.02 Whole Ducks (4-5#) 2.09 2.09 - 2.04

PRODUCE-prices are by the case and are based on usDA reports. 8/28/14 7/31/14 Difference 8/29/13limes (150 ct.) 13.00 8.00 5.00 14.00lemons (200 ct.) 28.90 28.90 - 20.78Cantaloupe (18 ct.) 6.00 4.63 1.37 5.50strawberries (12 pts) 15.00 12.00 3.00 14.50Avocds (Hass 48ct.) 33.25 37.25 <4.00> 40.00Idaho potato (70 ct.) 7.50 6.00 1.50 17.50yellow Onions (50 lb.) 6.38 9.00 <2.62> 6.25Red Onions (25 lb.) 14.46 10.71 3.75 10.09White Onions (50 lb.) 19.35 19.25 0.10 19.15Tomatoes (5X6-25lb.) 10.45 10.95 <0.50> 14.45Roma Tomatoes 8.26 9.95 <1.69> 11.96Green peppers 6.71 12.33 <5.62> 10.98Iceberg lettuce 16.84 11.35 5.49 9.01leaf lettuce 11.29 7.15 4.14 12.36Romaine lettuce 13.84 13.47 0.37 9.22broccoli (14 ct.) 15.35 6.89 8.46 9.72

Cautiously Optimistic OutlookStrong crop ratings improve feed prices, expect inflation in protein and dairy to wane

IT's been A DIFFICulT yeAR FOR commodity buyers, no doubt. Cheese, beef and pork prices all set

new record highs in recent months while butter reached its most expensive

level since 1998. However, there is noteworthy optimism moving forward because of the 2014-15 grain and oilseed crops. both the domestic corn and soybean crops continue to progress under relatively favorable conditions, with crop ratings for both at some of their best levels in the last 20 years. The usDA is anticipating record harvests and overall feed supplies for the 2014-15 crop year to be the best in eight years. Assuming no major weather events during the next two months, feed prices during the next several months should be very attractive for protein and dairy

farmers. Add to the equation relatively inflated protein and dairy prices, and margins should be some of their best for producers on a consistent basis in years. Thus, protein and dairy output expansion is anticipated. As we noted last month, this will take some time as the industry overcomes challenges around the chicken breeding flock, porcine epidemic diarrhea virus and the hog supply, and historically tight dairy and beef supplies. but there is reason to think that the worst of the inflated price levels may be behind us ... at least in most of the protein and dairy

markets. The exception in beef. There are signs that cattle herd expansion is underway but progress has been slow. It is expected that it will be at least 2016, and more likely 2017, that the industry in the u.s. will experience an annual increase in beef production. However, the usDA is forecasting noteworthy increases in output for the chicken, pork and dairy industries in the coming year, which should weigh on the appropriate markets. It is hoped that the better supply of alternative proteins will limit the upside price risk in beef. Time will tell.

David Maloni

*Covered party (as defined below) shall not be liable for any direct, indirect, incidental, special or consequential damages of any kind whatsoever (including attorney’s fees and lost profits or savings) in any way due to, resulting from, or arising in connection with the Monthly Commodity Report, including its content, regardless of any negligence of the covered party including but not limited to technical inaccuracies and typographical errors. “Covered party” means the American Restaurant Association Inc. and the employees of. © 2013 American Restaurant Association Inc.

Market information provided by David Maloni of the American Restaurant Association Inc. The American Restaurant Association Inc. publishes the “Weekly Commodity Report,” and provides food commodity market information to over 200,000 food service professionals. For more information call 1-888-423-4411, email at [email protected] or on the Internet at www.AmericanRestaurantAssociation.com.

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26 Foodservice News • October 2014

FOR THe pAsT 10 DAys I HAve been crashing at my sister's pad in playa del Carmen, Mexico. she and

I began traveling here about eight years ago. seven years ago she met a local guy. Today there is a five year old. you do the math.

And so, every now and then I get to come down and chill out rent free, poke the kid in her belly, watch her slowly grow into a beach soccer player, take in some sights and of course, some of the food and drink.

each time I travel here, it’s impossible not to take note of the changes and modern “progress” (depending on how you see it) taking place in this once tiny, beloved beach town.

Ask anyone who began traveling here a couple of decades ago, and they are sure to get a wistful expression on their face recalling the days of dirt roads, tangles of jungle brush, snakes and tranquility. To many of their minds, this place was ruined far before I ever began coming here.

And yet, I remember it as a hip, chill place for cool people who seemed to have it all figured out. There was a distinctive Italian district where impossibly beautiful women with golden skin sauntered down the avenue looking as though they were born in their swim wear. Topless on the beach, they frolicked with their matching boyfriends in between riding waves. now, there are sweaty Americans perambulating down the promenade in search of a Cuervo-laden frozen margarita. preferably strawberry.

As I write, I'm sitting in a frigidly air-conditioned starbucks. A couple of

American tourists just walked in and unironically began shopping for coffee mugs with “Mexico” emblems on them. progress. In place of the chilled-out beach vibe there are obnoxiously aggressive street hawkers with the sole purpose of separating you from your money in exchange for worthless baubles.

One of my favorite things about playa del Carmen was the cuisine. back in my day (says the old timer) it seemed as though wherever you landed, with few exceptions, you were bound to be served a plate of exceptionally fresh, beautiful food, for little more than six or seven bucks. snappy ceviches on tostadas with lime green slices of plump avocado. Taco setups with caddies of salsas, countless in their colors, spice levels and textures. simple egg dishes with butterscotch-colored yolks and fruit smoothies on the side, singing with just-picked freshness.

In place of my Italian ogling spot there is now a real estate agency offering American-style condos, and instead of ceviche tostadas, new york-style pizza. The hungry tourist can also treat herself to burger king, McDonald’s, Häagen-Dazs and countless burger joints. Many of my beloved tacos al pastor (think gyros-style cones of spinning meat, only instead of lamb, pork) have turned into “sirloin” tacos, ostensibly to pander to the American lust for beef (see my August column, “The burger Chronicles”). Others have removed the al pastor altogether to make room for more conventional Mexican-American dishes such as burritos and nachos, and menus touting “beach cuisine”— basically all-things-for-all-people junk food like French fries. And gone is the customary pre-meal basket of lovely fried tortillas and a couple of handmade salsas.

And while some of the once-wonderful eateries of playa still exist, many of them seem to push out food faster and of lesser quality. Once upon a time, it was commonplace to put in an order and then wait, and wait for it some more, on island time, as each batch of pico de gallo, or guacamole, or salsa was made

to order. no matter, we had nowhere to go and not much to do. Order another margarita. now ticket times must keep up with the American urge to go, go, go, vacation be damned.

And meanwhile, prices have gone up, up, up.

What is it with us? Why are Americans so willing to accept mediocrity (and in many cases, pure garbage) when it comes to what we put into our mouths? so much has been said (and continues to be said, every minute of every day) about American food politics, and I don't have the space to give it justice here. These are just a few opinionated observations, from afar.

It's impossible not to notice the Americans are the fattest ones on the beach (I'm looking inward here, too. I just succumbed to a starbuck's croissant, after all).

In 2013, Mexico surpassed us in becoming the fattest nation in the world. Is it only access to American style chains, industrialized agriculture and the dumbing down of food culture

that is making Mexico obese? probably not; the culture has always loved its rich masas laden with lard, constant access to street food, sugary snacks and of the omnipresent bottles of Coca-Cola.

but the globalization of food culture—from the McDonald’s-ification of Japan (3,000 stores nationwide, second only in numbers to the u.s.), to starbucks and kFC, along with the pervasiveness of Coke—is a phenomenon that cannot be denied.

I realize it may come off as trite for the American tourist to whine that her foodie travel experience is not authentic enough to suit her taste, especially with food scarcity being a problem the world over (poverty being one of the major indicators for obesity).

And yet, if not to immerse ourselves in other cultures—food being one of the most delectable ways of doing it—why travel at all? How far will we have to go to get away from home and eat something truly surprising?

I'll continue to report from the road and let you know.

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 27

I OnCe ReCeIveD A MeDIA pAss TO the national Restaurant Association show in Chicago, and ever since I've

gotten the most amazing junk mail. under the mistaken impression that my opinions are important (or unwilling to take the chance that they aren’t), I have been invited to restaurant openings in sydney, wine tastings in Catalonia and fried tarantula festivals in my neighbor’s back yard. I suppose publicists for these things don’t worry much about who gets the invite. I’m promised free admission, but no one has yet offered me a plane ticket. My neighbor did say he’d drive me to the hospital if I had a coronary.

On rare occasions, however, the junk mail turns into a junket, and I, of course, am always ready to climb aboard. This happened in mid-August, when, with my finger poised over the “delete” key, I

noticed the word “cheese.”The word has a special resonance with

me; my past-life therapist told that in my previous incarnation I was either a dairyman or a mouse. I clicked on the link, and behold, I was invited by the publicist for The Cheeses of europe to host a cheese tasting at the editorial offices of Foodservice news.

Regretfully, I explained that I am a freelancer and show up at those offices every three years, on average, just to see if they’re still standing. A better bet would be to contact my editor. I gather she appears there somewhat regularly.

I did offer an alternative: a tasting for my freshman culinary arts students, with all the publicity that would thus attend it, including student snapshots and a powerful rumor mill. To my mild astonishment, they accepted—and gave my students a lovely show. beautiful products, clear explanations by our Francophone cheesemongers Rachel and Celyne (there’s got to be a prettier word for “cheesemonger,” wouldn’t you think? Maybe in French), and tidy logistics by Heather, the publicist. I ate myself silly, took the leftovers home, and had more cheese at midnight. And butter. If you ever want to bribe me, by

the way, I’d suggest a couple hundred pounds of Isigny ste-Mère butter, half salted, half unsalted, delivered to my refrigerated safe in blaine.

If you have a product to sell, you could do worse than taking a lesson from these women. There was never a sense from our presenters that my students were not professionals worthy of their time, something I greatly appreciated. both smart salespeople and smart politicians (assuming there is a difference) recognize the importance of cultivating their future constituencies as well as their present ones, and show the same attention and respect to each.

so, respect for the customer. next comes a quality product, without which any demonstration of respect is moot. The cheeses were quite nice, by the way. Third comes the presentation of attributes and benefits. Did you know there’s a square cheese in the soft-ripened family? True fact. pont-l'Évêque. stinky. scrumptious. And the shape is part of its 900-year-old identity.

Then afterward there’s the follow-up. This is particularly important to a writer who would leave his head behind if it weren’t screwed on; all of my notes from the tasting are at school, and locked up

for the weekend. Conveniently enough, Heather emailed me every link I needed. My kids are right; brains are superfluous when you have a smartphone. by following the links, not only did I “remember” (ahem) everybody’s name, but the names of the cheeses and what they looked and smelled like.

I am a neophyte in the world of social media marketing, so it was quite educational to see the details of the way the entire campaign is bundled together with as many hooks to media tweeters as possible. The cheeses they choose are listed on the website at cheesesofeurope.com, of course, with a picture, description, tasting and pairing notes, and a little clickable recording of the pronunciation.

you may not be bringing a product to market in gourmet stores and groceries, but here is a lesson in successful rollouts that also applies to recipes and menus. When you’ve come up with a quality product you believe in, support it by preparing the infrastructure. If you’re uncertain about method, let me know and I’ll give you a couple phone numbers to call. you may have to buy some cheese along with your advice, but they pair well, believe me.

Jonathan Locke

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Say CheeseLearning from dairy purveyors, and the importance of the follow-up to overall success

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28 Foodservice News • October 2014

WHen I WAs A kID, I WAs sO introverted that my mother became worried and forced

me to take up a hobby. I think her hope was social interaction might draw me out of my shell.

I signed up for magic lessons, and my teacher introduced me to Harry Houdini. While all the kids in my class were fascinated with his legacy of magic tricks and escape techniques, all I cared about was that Harry was obsessed with returning from the dead.

For years, people in fashionable cities have tried to return Houdini’s spirit to earth, but with no success—at least to my knowledge.

Today I am going to tell you the key component these people have overlooked. In the spirit world, it is said that everything travels in circular patterns. so it only makes sense that Harry would resurface in our capital city.

Why is that you wonder?Houdini’s career was launched in st.

paul.After five years of failure in the

entertainment world, he was just about to call it quits, but fate selected a different path.

In a small beer hall on Wabash Avenue, Martin beck, the owner of one of san Francisco’s biggest theaters, had stopped in for a drink and ended up catching Houdini’s set. It is said beck wasn’t impressed by the production value, but he did think Houdini had an interesting vibe so he paid him $60 and signed him to a contract.

Over the next 27 years, Harry Houdini would go on to become one of the world’s most beloved celebrities.

Ok, let’s shift gears now. several months ago I was looking

at my calendar when I noticed that Halloween landed on Friday this year. At first I mulled over how that was going to impact my workplace, but after a moment I realized it would be a great night to have a party of my own.

Houdini died on October 31, so traditionally this is the evening when people try to make contact with him.

I decided I wanted to host a Houdini séance with the help of some of my friends from the Twin Cities literary community. The more I thought about it, the more I began to realize that we could put on a mystical variety show, but a proper venue would be essential.

One of my friends suggested the university Club of st. paul and I agreed this would be the perfect spot. I don’t know how mojo works, but they just celebrated their 100-year anniversary so you’d think that might be some kind of omen. If you have never been there, you really should. In my opinion it offers the best view of st. paul; and don’t quote me on this, but I am pretty sure it was designed by the architect that created Grand Central station in new york City. but in the time it takes to say “Abracadabra” I realized I might have a problem: I am not a member of the university Club.

so I contacted my friend Carol Connolly, st. paul’s poet laureate. she has run her reading series out of the u-Club for years. she told me Julia struve was not only my contact person, but also a woman who performed miracles on a daily basis.

Julia is the catering manager of Commonwealth properties and Hospitality. This is the parent company of W.A. Frost, The university Club of st. paul, The st. paul Athletic Club, the Commodore bar and a handful of other concepts.

When I got Julia on the phone I knew within a minute that Carol’s assessment was spot on.

After telling her about my situation she let me know that all of their event spaces are available for public events and they could meet the needs of any group consisting of 2 to 400 people. And the nice thing about working with Julia is that you don’t need to be a member to host your event at one of these spaces that are so rich in history and charm.

Over the years I have had the pleasure of working with what, about a million catering companies? let me tell you, when I saw the pricing on these venues and amenities, to be honest I was a little shocked at how reasonable they were.

Most of you are familiar with these Commonwealth properties and Hospitality spaces and know how impressive they are, but truth be told, the real value you’re going to get is Julia struve. she is professional, thoughtful and lives to make you and your event look top notch.

you guys know I don’t often give personal endorsements, but she is simply too humble to tell you she is the best.

When our business had concluded I asked how things were going over at the Commodore. If you live in Minneapolis, you might not know of

this capital city treasure. In 1920 it was built as an elegant art deco bar that attracted literary figures like F. scott Fitzgerald and sinclair lewis. Gangsters like Al Capone and Fred barker hung out here as well, and legend has it that the Commodore is where Ma barker met her son’s girlfriend.

How can you not want to hang out in a place like this that has so much history?

Anyway, I’ve been told this space is scheduled to be open to the public and be available for private events as soon as December.

With that said, I will close by issuing a formal guarantee that Danny klecko will find the portal and Harry will cross over and make contact at the Houdini séance on Halloween night. (Admission is free; doors open at 7 p.m., with showtime at 8 p.m.) you have my word on it!

dan “Klecko” Mcgleno is the CeO at Saint Agnes Baking Company in St Paul and can be reached electronically at [email protected], at the office at 651-290-7633, or on his cellular device at 651-329-4321.

Klecko

haNgiN’ with kleCko

Coming Soon: The 4Th AnnuAl ChArlie AwArdS

CelebrATe The Twin CiTieS’ reSTAurAnT, food And beverAge induSTrieSwiTh The ChArlie AwArdS!

Sunday, November 16, 2014 at the Pantages Theatre (710 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis)

Awards begin at 3:30 p.m. The afternoon will continue with a post-party in the idS Crystal Court, followed by a 6 p.m. chefs dinner at windows on minnesota.

Buy tickets for the 2014 Charlie Awards online at www.charliesexceptionale.com and at the box offices of the State, orpheum and Pantages theaters.

Tickets for the main awards show and after-party are $35 ($25 for members of the food community).

Tickets for the awards, after-party and chefs dinner are $150.

A portion of the proceeds benefits open Arms of minnesota, a nonprofit organization that cooks and delivers free meals tailored for those living with life-threatening illnesses.

Practical MagicPlanning a Houdini séance with help from a catering manager whose skill is no illusion

Truth be told, the realvalue you're going to

get is Julia Struve. She is professional, thoughtful and

lives to make you and your event look top notch.

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 29

[email protected]

Fanatical About FoodUS Foods’ fall culinary expo spotlights dynamic food concepts

With a focus on hot menu trends, popular ingredients and building business sense, us Foods brought its Food Fanatics Live show back to the st. paul RiverCentre september 8, with hundreds of booths providing opportunities to explore, taste and learn.

Chef John Byrne, the company’s Minnesota Food Fanatic, along with Chicago division chef Rocco Paradiso, led numerous culinary demos and were joined on stage by a handful of the Twin Cities’ own culinary talents. Nick O’Leary, chef at Borough and Coup de etat in Minneapolis, discussed modern plating and the importance of contrasting colors; Peter Botcher of Butcher and the Boar talked meat and announced the restaurant’s specialty sausages are now available through us Foods.

The show floor was also home to several pop-ups, with the likes of Forepaugh’s Donald Gonzalez, Cossetta’s Ryan Caulfield and Red Cow’s Trevis Langley serving up tasty bites using ingredients supplied by us Foods. A craft beer hall showcased brews from Summit, Lucid, Big Wood, Badger Hill and NorthGate breweries, with many attendees discussing the popularity of food-beer pairings.

Photos by Laura Michaels

Jack Witherspoon serves up veggie potato pancakes with a sour cream chipotle lime sauce. The 14-year-old discovered cooking while battling leukemia and now shares his passion during appearances around the country.

Chef Donald Gonzalez hard at work at his Forepaugh’s pop-up during the US Foods fall show.

Lucid Brewing’s Jon Messier (left) and Mike Wehling talk—and sample—beer with attendees.

US Foods Marketing Specialist Jessica Martin (left) with FSN's Amy Gasman.

show seasoNFor more show photos visit FSN’s Facebook page.

Amy Gasman Account Executive—Foodservice News

Team Fsn recently attended sysco Minnesota’s Ingredients for success event, where we met with Chef Robert Irvine, a sysco partner and the host of Food network’s “Restaurant: Impossible.” upon taking the stage, Irvine shared what he believes are the key ingredients for building—and maintaining—a successful restaurant: quality product, service, resources and technology. He also hit on hot topics such as the impact of social media on the restaurant industry, the direction of payment platforms, managing feedback, menu design and business reviews. Irvine has teamed up with sysco because he believes the company represents the future of the foodservice industry.

“The main goal is making restaurants succeed—their success is our success” says Tim peterzen (president, sysco Mn), whom I recently met along with Mike Meyer (vp sales, sysco Mn). They have partnered with local purveyors to help maximize crop outputs and track fresh ingredients from seed to table. It is a transparent process that allows people to know exactly where their food came from. sysco also offers complimentary business reviews. It is crucial to analyze every aspect of the menu including layout, design, descriptions, ingredients and cost. Irvine emphasized the fact that your bottom line can be saved by keeping the menu simple. peterzen also suggests, “In tough business climates, we see portion and quality reduced to save money. My advice would be to charge appropriately for a higher quality product and manage that.”

For more coverage of sysco Mn and its Ingredients for success event—plus advice from Robert Irvine—check out Fsn online at www.foodservicenews.net.

upcoming editorial highlights in Fsn: The november issue will feature restaurant design, equipment and larger scale operations. The December issue offers an opportunity to have your business aligned with the best in the industry as our annual Top Chefs book highlights the culinary talents behind the Twin Cities leading restaurants.

Are you interested in promoting your business to buyers and decision makers in the foodservice and hospitality industries? Contact me for more information on advertising and brand marketing strategies.

Robert Irvine and Team FSN hanging out backstage before his presentation.

Tim Peterzen (left) and Mike Meyer of Sysco MN at the Ingredients for Success event in Minneapolis.

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30 Foodservice News • October 2014

Minneapolis Chapter

Wizardz Chili Cook-OffSaturday, October 11; 4 p.m.Oak Crest Elementary: 1101 West Commerce Dr., Belle Plaine, MN

This third annual event raises money for the Wizardz special Olympics team. Tickets are $9.50 for adults and $4.50 for children under 12; a family four-pack is $20. Attendees can taste as much chili as they want and will vote on a people’s Choice winner. There will

also be category winners for Judge’s Table and Table Design. Contact Chef scott parks at 952-270-6351 or [email protected].

Kids Feed-a-ThonTuesday, October 28; 4 p.m.Bearpath Golf & Country Club: 18100 Bearpath Trail, Eden Prairie, MN

This annual community service project will take place before the October meeting. Members and friends will mix, bag, seal and box meals to help children in need of nutritious meals. visit the chapter website, www.acfmcc.com, for more information and to register.

Monthly MeetingsThe October meeting is scheduled

for Tuesday, October 28. Meetings are held on the last Tuesday of every month. visit www.acfmcc.com for information and signup.

eveNts CaleNdar

aCF News serviCes direCtory

All ACF chapters are invited to send event listings and story ideas [email protected].

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Chefs Make Kitchen MovesAfter four years at Mendakota

Country Club in Mendota Heights, Chris Dwyer left his post as executive chef to lead the culinary staff at bearpath Golf and Country Club in eden prairie. Dwyer, also the board president of the ACF’s Minneapolis chapter, said he’s had the opportunity to completely revamp the club’s menus and is overseeing a complete kitchen upgrade.

Among Dwyer’s goals in the kitchen are to bring back basic preparation and seasoning techniques and incorporate more fresh ingredients into the menu. Fellow ACF chefs sean Cooke and emily slaughter have since joined Dwyer’s staff.

several other chefs within the chap-ter have also found new digs over the past few months. scott parks is the new executive chef at Faribault Country Club; Chef Daniel Cleary is leading the kitchen at Dellwood Country Club and patrick Conway is now executive chef

at st. Anthony senior living Facility. keith Huffman is also in a new role after being promoted to executive chef with luzette Catering.

ACF Minneapolis Chef’s Chapter President Chris Dwyer is now the executive chef at Bearpath Golf & Country Club.

October 6National Restaurant AssociationPolitical Action Committee Golf Fundraiserbrackett’s Crossing Country Club,lakeville, MnFMI: www.hospitalitymn.org

October 8ServSafe CertificationHospitality Minnesota Officest. paul, Mn8 a.m.-4 p.m. (exam follows)Cost: $145 (members); $170(non-members)FMI: www.hospitalitymn.org

October 9MN Food Manager RecertificationHospitality Minnesota Officest. paul, Mn8 a.m.-noonCost: $55 (members); $75 (non-members)FMI: www.hospitalitymn.org

October 14Women Who Really Cook MeetingMidtown Global MarketMinneapolis, Mn9-11 a.m.

October 15Performance Fall Food ShowThe Wilds Golf Clubprior lake, Mn10 a.m.-3 p.m.

October 28Upper Lakes Fall Food ShowThe DeCC, Duluth, Mn9 a.m.-4 p.m.FMI: upperlakesfoods.com

November 3Feast Local Foods TradeshowMayo Civic CenterRochester, Mn9 a.m.-5 p.m.FMI: www.local-feast.org

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October 2014 • Foodservice News 31

BROILERS BRING OUT THE BEST FLAVORS PLUS ENERGY SAVINGS

GIVING MOREINSPIRED ENERGY SAVINGSY U

Pictured at 6Smith are Randy Stanley (left), president, 6Smith; Paul Slack, principal of Vader and Landgraf and manufacturer’s representative for U.S. Range/Garland; and JP Samuelson, executive chef, 6Smith.

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Chefs at 6Smith, a 445-seat restaurant and bar located in Wayzata on the shores of Lake Minnetonka, cook artisan inspired meat and seafood dishes in bold and fresh ways with the new Garland Infrared Upright Broiler. Paul Slack of Vader and Landgraf, principal and manufacturer’s representative for U.S. Range/Garland, recommends this broiler for operations that need an easy-to-use, durable and effi cient broiler that delivers high productivity and menu fl exibility.

Cook to perfection. Infrared rays create super-heated energy that quickly sears in natural juices for meat, poultry and seafood, producing distinct fl avor, texture and eye-appeal. First-time infrared broiler user, JP Samuelson, 6Smith’s executive chef, likes the perfect charring and temperature that seal in prime steak fl avors, both inside and out.

Add variety to menu. Prepare steaks, burgers, fi sh, ribs, pork and more. Randy Stanley, president of 6Smith said the two double deck broilers deliver high quality consistently to 6Smith’s expansive menu.

Cut energy costs. Reduce fuel costs by 50 percent versus conventional broilers. “We chose natural gas equipment where possible for lower operating costs and superior equipment performance,” said Stanley.

6Smith’s broilers and water heater qualifi ed for $5,850 in CenterPoint Energy rebates. To add more energy-effi cient equipment to your kitchen, contact Vader and Landgraf.

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32 Foodservice News • October 2014

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• MSDS in every case and on every pail

• Dispensing equipment provided

• Site survey to determine the best systems for your establishment

• AND MORE!