The Art of Spices

ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

No. 52, June 2010

Huajiao: The Secret to Sichuan Cuisine

A journey to China6 Bocuse d’Or

CIA hosts world-class competition14

Serious About Spices

A peek behind the doors of Le Sanctuaire17A Symphony of Spice

Learn about the magic of Indian cuisine11

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14

Across the Plaza2010 Augie Awards | Following the Presidential Trail

Faculty Amusements | CIA Students Making Memories

18

Education for LifeBook Shelf | Outdoor Herbal Classrooms | Career

Changers…Changed Lives | WOHF Takes on Big Issues

24

Gifts at WorkA Perfect Blend: McCormick and the CIA Why Give? | Giving’s Impact

29

Class NotesClass Notes | In Memoriam

32

17

4

Growing up, I had a wary relationship with herbs and spices. Oh, I was

comfortable enough with things like garlic powder, onion salt, oregano, paprika,

and black pepper. But I was suspicious of unfamiliar spices. I’d been told that

if you failed to remove the dreaded bay leaf after cooking you could choke to

death while eating it. Mace was an enigmatic spice used judiciously for purposes

that still remain a mystery to me. Star anise, while beautiful, always left me

baffled about what to actually do with it once I got it out of the jar. And clove

was the equivalent of a spicy lethal weapon. After all, it was sharp enough to

pierce the rind of an orange.

Like most Americans, my palate and culinary awareness have greatly improved

over the years, and the once unfamiliar and daunting cumin, fennel seed,

cayenne pepper, and turmeric have become some of my most cherished culinary

comforts. So it was with this open and confident mindset that I accepted the

request by Chef Shirley Cheng and Dr. Chris Loss to participate in their

Sichuan peppercorn sensory focus group—a mix of staff and faculty members

who gathered to taste dishes prepared by Chef Cheng and share

their experience.

Our first innocuous-looking cucumber amuse bouche packed a Sichuan

peppercorn electrical punch that left all our mouths, tongues, and throats

tingling and then numb. A guarded look appeared in the eyes of many

participants as they asked questions like “How long does this feeling last?” and

“Does your throat close up from this?” I even had a momentary flashback to

my bay leaf anxieties of the past. But, courage and experience helped me begin

to enjoy the spicy revelation known as the Sichuan peppercorn. Tasting small

amounts of the proffered dishes, I discovered the different treatments and taste

sensations of the foreign spice. I began to accept the possibility that one day my

tentative tolerance of this unique spice would become full-fledged acceptance.

This mise en place will take you on the road with Chef Cheng as she explores the

history, geography, and significance of the peppercorn in Sichuan cuisine. Chef

Phillip Crispo shares his understanding and love of Indian cuisine and spices.

And one of our students, Andrea Morris, writes about her visit to Le Sanctuaire,

an exclusive spice store in San Francisco, CA.

Enjoy reading this spicy edition.

Nancy Cocola, Editor

mise en place® No. 52, June 2010

Nancy W. Cocola, Editor

Leslie Jennings, Designer

Contributing WritersShirley Cheng

Phillip Crispo

Dr. Chris Loss ’93

Andrea Morris

Jennifer O’Neill

Felicia Zammit

Editorial BoardDr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Nancy Harvin Vice President for Advancement

Mark Ainsworth ’86

Brad Barnes ’87

Sue Cussen

Ron DeSantis ’81

Heather Kolakowski ’02

Chet Koulik

Chris Loss ’93

Francisco Migoya

Douglass Miller ’89

Tama Murphy

Anthony Nogales ’88

Jen Stack ’03

MissionMise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by:

Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students.

Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concern-ing the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodser-vice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community.

©2010 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved.

Photography: Shirley Cheng, Keith Ferris, Andrea Morris, John Reese, Anne Rettig

mise en place no.52, June 2010 5

It was just two years ago that the CIA

opened its third campus in San Antonio,

TX. Since then, we have graduated more

than 150 students from our 30-week

culinary arts certificate program, held

two “Latin Flavors, American Kitchens”

symposiums, provided a variety of

professional development programs focused

on Latin cuisine, and expanded our food

enthusiast Boot Camps and Weekends

at the CIA classes to our campus in the

Alamo City.

Believe it or not, all this was accomplished

in a 5,000-square-foot facility with just

one kitchen. Can you imagine what’s in

store for our students when we move into

our new building? We’ll soon have four

state-of-the-art kitchens, a bakeshop, an

outdoor kitchen, and a demonstration

theater. Over time, the culinary arts

certificate program will be expanded to

accommodate more than 150 students. As

many as 1,500 professionals a year will be

able to participate in continuing education,

industry research services, and conferences

at the new campus. Construction is in full

swing. We’ll keep you posted.

Soooo Hot!The History Channel came to Hyde Park

last December, but the crew wasn’t in town

to visit the FDR Library or Vanderbilt

Mansion. The producers wanted a CIA

expert to provide insight into things hot

and spicy like chilies, horseradish, and

wasabi, for an episode of its popular show

Modern Marvels. Our resident spicy food

expert, Associate Professor in Culinary

Arts Bill Phillips ’88, spoke at length

about the history of spices and how they

are used today. He even made some

predictions about the future of fiery foods.

The episode, Modern Marvels “Hot & Spicy,”

aired in February 2010.

Tasty AwardsIt’s only fitting that the college’s CIA

Culinary Intelligence Web site won

an award called The Tasty. It’s true.

Our monthly recipe video series won

a 2010 Tasty Award in the “Best Food

Program–Web” category. The episode,

featuring Associate Professor in Culinary

Arts Scott Swartz, provides a step-by-

step demonstration on the preparation

of Eggs Benedict. Produced in-house by

CIA Communications Manager Virginia

Muré, the series joins the New York Emmy

Award-winning series Around the World

in 80 Dishes—created in collaboration

with Epicurious.com. Check out these

two exciting recipe-filled sites and enjoy

watching your own CIA chef-instructors

create great dishes.

Greystone PLUSSan Antonio is not the only CIA campus

undergoing expansion. Out at Greystone,

the new Chocolate Laboratory is part of

a build-out of the first floor. There you’ll

find the newly designed Spice Island

Marketplace, which now includes a Flavor

Bar and oleoteca, and Viking Range

teaching kitchens. The 675-square-foot

Chocolate Laboratory was designed with

optimal conditions for confectionery work

in mind. It has temperature and humidity

controls, all-marble tables, no bright lights,

and tall ceilings. It is a self-contained

room, ensuring that no other cooking

odors impact the chocolates and other

confections. Cutting-edge equipment will

provide students with the means to create

chocolates of the highest quality using both

traditional and experimental techniques.

The Chocolate Laboratory will be used

for a three-week curriculum in chocolate

and other confectionery work for A.O.S.

students, for chocolate-related weekend

classes for enthusiasts, and to create

Greystone Chocolates for sale in the

Marketplace.

The Dream Continues/ El Sueño Continúa

66

Huajiao: The Secret to Sichuan CuisineBy Shirley Cheng, with Dr. Chris Loss ’93

Huajiao is the Chinese word for what is more commonly known as the “Sichuan peppercorn.” It translates literally to flower (hua) pepper ( jiao). This spice, which has an intense aroma and very unique flavor, is integral to Sichuan cuisine, and is used by millions of Chinese every day. However, this spice, and its strong connections to Sichuan culinary heritage, is not well known outside of China.

To better understand the culinary uses of huajiao, its cultural significance in China, and potential applications in the American foodservice industry, we conducted a research project that was sponsored through the Menu Research and Flavor Discovery Institute (MRFDI) program at the CIA. By combining culinary and food science perspectives, we carefully documented the cultivation and production of huajiao, and gained new insight into its historical and culinary significance. I traveled to the beautiful Sichuan province of China; interviewed farmers, chefs, and huajiao scholars, and collected traditional recipes and many authentic spice samples. On my return, we conducted sensory tests using American consumers and chefs, revealing the truly unique sensory properties of huajiao. What follows are some of the highlights from this flavor exploration to Sichuan, and a taste of our research results.

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com8

Varieties and Flavors of HuajiaoThere are two types or species of huajiao grown in China: a red

variety and green variety. The red is more common, and its small

fresh granule peppercorns look like pretty red flowers hanging

from the surprisingly barbed branches of the huajiao shrub. The

peppercorns are tiny in size—only .5 cm in diameter, and it is the outer

husks of the huajiao that have unique and intense flavor properties.

Huajiao is a member of the rutaceae family, which includes oranges,

lemons, and other citrus. Much like those citrus fruits, the plant has

oil-cell lumps that appear on the husk of the ripened fruit, providing

citrus, pine, and tea-like aromas commonly associated with huajiao.

Within the oils of the husk there is also a unique flavor compound

called “spilanshool” that creates an intense numbing or “buzzing”

sensation on the tongue—which is an essential component to the flavor

profile of Sichuan cuisine.

Huajiao expert Professor Meng Ye, from the Sichuan Agricultural

University, explained that there are about 18 types of huajiao in

Sichuan and a total of 40 throughout China. The most common

huajiao has green leaves, red husks, yellow inner-peel, and black seeds

inside. It looks like a pretty flower. In the past 10 years, a new green

variety has emerged called qing huajiao. Green huajiao is the same

size as the red variety but is dark green inside and out. Many people

mistakenly think that the green huajiao is simply an unripe regular

huajiao, but it is a different species entirely. Professor Ye explained

that while red huajiao plants like dry soil and hot temperatures, the

green huajiao requires rich soil and more moisture in order to flourish.

Green huajiao has become a popular spice on the culinary stage, in

part because its numbing quality is much lighter than the red huajiao.

This is an interesting indicator of the evolving flavor preferences of the

Chinese people.

A cousin to green huajiao is the newly popular tenjiao, which is used

to create flavored oil. Farm owner Li Jianfeng of Green Land Tenjiao

Farm in Mount Emei recounted that when he was young, tenjiao grew

wild in the backyard. Every year, he would pick the wild peppers

and put them in a bamboo basket, to sell at the local market for five

yuan per pound. As the Sichuan restaurant industry grew both locally

and abroad, the demand for tenjiao increased quickly, and Jianfeng

found that he could sell it for 30 yuan per pound. Now he owns 165

profitable acres. Most fresh tenjiao are refrigerated right after harvest

and transported to oil factories that manufacture tenjiao-infused

rapeseed oil. It is a favored seasoning for people in Sichuan and almost

every restaurant and supermarket carries it.

Sichuan Province—Huajiao’s Home Hanyuan county is 158 miles southwest of Chengdu, the capital of

Sichuan, and is located between the Nibashan and Daliangshan

Mountains. Qingxi is one of the small towns located in the valley of

those mountains that is famous for its huajiao. Standing in a huajiao

orchard, Mr. Wenjin Shi, director of the agricultural department in

the town of Quingxi, explains why huajiao from Qingxi is considered

the best quality. “Here at 5,400 feet above sea level, we exceed the

minimum elevation for optimal huajiao growth, which is 3,000

feet. Plus, winter here is very cold and very good for huajiao plant

hibernation. The land, air, and temperature are just right, and there

is no pollution. Today, about 500 acres are cultivated with huajiao,

which produce over 100 tons of fresh huajiao a year.” Although it can

be produced throughout the country, it is the huajiao produced in

Sichuan that is considered to have the best flavor quality. For

this reason, huajiao is referred to directly as “chuan jiao” as in

Sichuan jiao.

Huajiao’s Past Huajiao has been used in China for more than 2,000 years. Ms. Li

Du, director of research and development of Sichuan cuisine at the

Sichuan Culinary Institute in Chengdu, proudly explains that China

is considered the birthplace of huajiao. As far back as 2,200 years

ago, one of the earliest books of poetry published in China, ShiJing,

includes a poem entitled “JiaoLiao” that refers to huajiao and its

shape. The first uses of huajiao were not as a flavoring ingredient

but as a coating for houses! Mixed with mud to create a kind of

paint, houses coated with the huajiao gave off a strong aroma.

It was believed that this provided good luck to the homeowner

by deterring evil. It is also noted that the huajiao seeds were

treasured as symbols of fertility.

Mr. Guanghua Shi, poet and author of My Sichuan

Culinary Memory, has spent a great deal of his time

researching the history of Sichuan cuisine. He

explained that archeologists found huajiao present

in sites that are thousands of years old; evidence

that huajiao was actively used in ceremonial and

religious offerings. The culinary uses for huajiao

emerged during the Qin (221 B.C.–206 B.C.),

Han (206 B.C.–9 A.D.), and Xin Dynasties

(9 A.D.–23 A.D). Menus from the Tang (618

A.D.–907 A.D.) and Song (960 A.D.–1279

A.D.) Dynasties also document its

culinary uses.

However, there was a period in China’s

culinary history when huajiao’s

popularity and consumption

diminished dramatically throughout

the country. During the Yuan

Dynasty (1271–1368 A.D.), the

mise en place no.52, June 2010 99

Mongolians invaded China.

They immediately began to

dictate their cultural, religious,

and social mores to the people

of their newly conquered land.

As followers of Buddhism, the

Mongols frowned upon eating

aphrodisiac-like stimulants such as

garlic, chives, and huajiao. To eat

huajiao was to commit a crime, so

naturally its consumption declined. By

the end of the Ming Dynasty (1368–

1644 A.D.) the use of huajiao throughout

most of China had completely stopped.

Huajiao’s RebirthOddly, it was an item brought great

distances from a foreign shore that gave new

life to the lost huajiao. Arriving in the seaports

of Fujian province, the chili pepper from South

America slowly made its way inland to Sichuan—a

culinary journey that took almost 50 years. The

local people responded enthusiastically to the hot

flavor profile of chilis, and began combining it with

huajiao. As it turns out, it was a perfect marriage.

Some believe you can’t find a better match on the planet

than huajiao and chili pepper. The fiery heat of the chili

complemented the calming or numbing effect of the huajiao.

This foreign chili pepper is credited with saving huajiao from

complete culinary extinction. Though inhabitants of other

provinces like Hunan and Jiangxi actually consume spicier

food than people of Sichuan, it is the fusion of huajiao and chili

pepper that gives Sichuan cuisine its unique spicy reputation.

Huajiao adds to the richness of the chili pepper, creating a

spicy flavor that is more full-bodied. This combination is

called “MaLa.”

MaLa—The Essence of Sichuan CuisineMa stands for the numbing or tingling sensation in the mouth,

lips, and tongue that results from the naturally present chemical

compound known as “sanshool” found in the oils of the huajiao

husks. Some people liken the Ma sensation like that of a low-

voltage, electronically soothing pulse. At first it can shock the

mouth, but it soon leaves a feeling of mild numbness, which can

soothe, calm, and even “super cool.” La represents a burning,

hot, and spicy sensation, coming from the capsaicin of the

chili peppers. Combined, Ma and La produce a truly complementary

combination: La provides the spicy heat and Ma provides the

numbing/cooling sensation. As a diner progresses through a meal

prepared with chili and huajiao, waves of heating, numbing, and

cooling repeat themselves and create a unique flavor experience.

Certified Master Chef Ziyu Peng, the secretary general of Chengdu

Culinary Association, says that although Sichuan cuisine is made

up of hundreds of dishes that embrace many tastes and flavors, the

most unique contribution is the taste of Ma from huajiao. Many other

regional cuisines in China, such as those from Hunan, Guizhou, and

Yunan provinces, use chili; however, Sichuan’s cuisine is the only one

to incorporate the soothing notes of huajiao. Without huajiao, Sichuan

food would be much like that of its provincial neighbors.

Executive Chef Li Yuwei, owner of Shaocheng Restaurant in Chengdu,

pointed out that huajiao powder, huajiao-flavored oil, and whole

huajiao is an essential seasoning used every day in his restaurant.

He purchases it as often as every couple of days. Mr. Yiyan Bao, a

Certified Master Chef and director of continuing education at the

Sichuan Culinary Institute, revealed the top five Sichuan dishes that

use huajiao. They include Ma Po Tofu, Water-boiled Pork (see p.10),

Huajiao Chicken, Jiaoma Chicken, and Mala Fish.

Huajiao is Good MedicineProfessor Jian Wang, an expert on Chinese pharmaceuticals from

the Chinese Medical University at Chengdu, explained that huajiao

has been broadly used in traditional Chinese medicine. In one of the

earliest Chinese books on agriculture and medicinal plants, Shen Nong

Ben Cao Jing, huajiao is described as being good for removing “evil

qi” from a person’s body. Professor Wang also indicated that huajiao

has a warm nature and its medical effect is to warm the spleen and

stomach, dispel colds, and stop pain. Huajiao is also used as part

of the prescription against roundworms. It works by numbing the

roundworm, enabling the other components of the prescription to kill

it. One of the most common uses of medicinal huajiao is to relieve the

itch of Hong Kong foot—the equivalent of our athlete’s foot!

Upon my return from China, Chris Loss and I conducted focus

groups with American consumers on traditional Sichuan dishes. The

comments from the group participants revealed that the distinctly

different flavor profiles that huajiao lends to traditional Sichuan dishes

are essentially unknown in the United States. However, carefully

designed hedonic (like vs. dislike scale) sensory tests, using a familiar

food like chicken broth and noodles seasoned with huajiao oil,

demonstrated that acceptance of the huajiao flavor profile amongst

America consumers is possible. I was delighted to learn that the spice I

have used and enjoyed for so long has the potential to reveal its special

qualities to the American palate. To that end, I’ve included a recipe of

a classic Sichuan dish. Enjoy!

www.ciaalumninetwork.com10

Water-boiled PorkThe name of this Sichuan dish sometimes

fools people into thinking it will be bland—rest

assured, it’s hot, spicy, and delicious!

Makes 4 servings

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Marinade2 teaspoons rice wine

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1 pound pork loin

Garnish1 tablespoon corn oil

2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns

½ cup dried small red chilis

Vegetables¼ pound Chinese celery

¼ pound Chinese leeks

¼ pound stem lettuce or Romaine hearts

2 tablespoons corn oil

1 tablespoon scallions, chopped

Pork2 tablespoons corn oil

1 tablespoon ginger, minced

2 tablespoons scallions, chopped

¼ cup Chinese hot chili sauce

3 tablespoons rice wine

3 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 cups chicken or beef stock

Finishing Touch¼ cup corn oil

Combine rice wine, soy sauce, and cornstarch; mix well. Slice pork into thin pieces and

add to marinade mixture. Mix well, then set aside.

Heat one tablespoon of oil in a sauté pan. Add Sichuan peppercorns and dried chilis. Cook

until chilis turn dark red (not black). Remove and cool. Place cooled chili and Sichuan

peppercorn mixture on a cutting board. Use the side of your knife blade to smash then

chop mixture into fine pieces. Set aside.

Wash or rinse vegetables, then cut into three-inch lengths. Heat oil in a wok. Add scallions

then vegetables and stir-fry for 20 seconds over high heat. Remove to a large shallow bowl.

Heat two tablespoons of oil in a wok. Add ginger, scallions, and hot chili sauce. Cook

until oil turns red. Add rice wine, soy sauce, and stock. When stock is boiling, add

marinated pork. Use a pair of chopsticks or fork to gently stir. As soon as the pork is

completely cooked, pour pork with sauce over the cooked vegetables. Sprinkle minced

Sichuan peppercorn and chili over pork. Heat up the quarter cup of oil. When oil is lightly

smoking, pour oil over the dish. Serve it immediately.

Name of the dish

Jiao Ma Shrimp and Green Onions (Served cold)

Jiao You Cucumber

Tengiao Thin-sliced Beef with Bean Sprouts

Water-boiled Pork

Stir-fried Romaine

Primary flavoring components

“Raw” chopped huajiao

Huajiao-infused oil

Tengiao-infused oil + dried tengiao

Roasted and chopped huajiao and chilis

Whole huajiao

Flavor profile

Mild, cooling, numbing (Ma only)

Pronounced numbing after taste (Ma only)

Very aromatic, citrus, pine notes, some numbing

“Fresh,” savory, salty, very spicy, numbing (MaLa)

Aromatic, perfumy

Detailed results from this MRFDI-sponsored research project can

be found at http://menuscience.ciachef.edu/research. The paper was

presented at the Research Chefs Association’s annual conference in

March 2010. MRFDI is made possible through the generous support

of CIA corporate partners Campbell Soup Company, The Coca Cola

Company, and McCormick for Chefs.

Shirley Cheng is a CIA professor in culinary arts. Dr. Chris Loss ’93 is chair

of the CIA’s Department of Menu Research and Development.

Iconic Sichuan dishes, the form of huajio they incorporate, and their flavor profiles.

mise en place no.52, June 2010 11

A Symphony of Spice

The Magic of Indian CuisineBy Phillip Crispo

To truly understand a country’s culture, one need not look much further than the foods people eat and the manner in which they are prepared, served, and consumed. As with other countries around the world, food in India is more than just sustenance—it carries a far deeper meaning. Indians strongly believe that you are physically, emotionally, and spiritually what you eat; food can almost be considered a means of providing identity to an individual or group. Food is also instrumental to rituals and traditions, religious beliefs, and the bringing together of the family unit.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com12

No country in the world can demonstrate such a complete and

unequaled mastery of the use of spices in their food as India. As

globalization in the twenty-first century is shrinking our planet, it’s

wise to explore the Indian cooking techniques, ingredients, and use

of spices now available to professional chefs. India boasts an infinite

array of spices, seeds, barks, leaves, and roots ready and waiting for

anyone who’s eager to learn.

A Land of DiversityAt an introductory level, India can be better

understood by dividing the country into five

regions: north, south, east, west, and central.

Consisting of 28 states and seven union

territories, and home to more than a billion

people, the country has 15 official languages

along with hundreds of dialects and minor

languages. As religion and food go very much

hand-in-hand in India, it is also worth noting that

there are many religions practiced across this vast

nation, from Hindu and Islam to Christianity and Sikhism to

small sects such as Animism, which worships gods and spirits.

So let’s sample Indian cuisine by studying the nation’s five major

regions and their sophisticated use of spices and ingredients.

The North— From Tandoori to Garam Masala Rich with luxurious ingredients, the north is where you’ll find the

Punjabi and Kashmiri styles of cooking. Often considered to be home

to the “gourmets of Indian cooking,” this area is known for an array of

sweetmeats and the popular tandoori cooking technique. In tandoori

cooking, which is done at a very high temperature, a large clay oven

is used to produce roasted meat dishes as well as breads such as naan

and sheermal. The breads are stretched and

shaped, then stuck to the inside wall of the oven

to bake.

Spices in this region are primarily in the form

of garam masalas—mixes or blends containing

cinnamon sticks, bay leaves, cumin, coriander

seeds, green and black cardamom seeds, black

peppercorns, cloves, and mace. This is where

the fun begins. When using spices, we as chefs

often look at them too one-dimensionally; we

simply accept them for what they are and the flavor they can provide.

Indian cooks, however, look beyond the “face value” of spices and use

different techniques to dramatically change their flavoring properties

and contribution to a dish. The tarka method is an excellent example

of a flavor development technique that every student of cooking should

explore. It involves using a shallow sauteuse with a small amount

of mustard, coconut oil, or ghee (clarified butter). The fat is heated

and, when hot, the dried seeds, spices, roots, and bark are added and

allowed to pop and spit; immediately after, the spices are added to

the dish. Similar to how we finish many western dishes with chopped

herbs, this method provides an amazing olfactory experience, along

with an unequaled taste sensation that helps set Indian cuisine apart.

The South—Hot, Sweet, and SourThe southern region of India is home primarily to people who practice

the Hindu faith. Because of the religion’s teachings on non-violence

and respect for animal life, it comes as no surprise that the region’s

diet is based mainly on rice and vegetables. Cows are considered

sacred in this region and are allowed to roam free in the same way

your neighbor’s cat would in the U.S. Beef as well as products from

the cow are considered taboo and are not consumed. However, Indian

cooks are masters of vegetarian cooking, and meat lovers can go to

any good Indian restaurant and not feel they missed out on anything.

Along with vegetables and rice, cooks in the south employ the

richness and decadent mouthfeel of coconut and coconut milk in their

dishes. Cooking fats are replaced with flavorful, aromatic mustard

oil and tangy tamarind. A common flavor profile of the south could

be described as hot, sweet, and sour. Chilies are used in this region,

but in a way that balances them with contrasting ingredients to

The tarka method is an excellent example of a flavor development technique that every student of cooking should explore.

mise en place no.52, June 2010 13

prevent the mouth-scorching effects we tend to associate with Indian

cuisine. Another flavorful ingredient used extensively in the south is

sambhar powder, which lends a subtle tartness that cuts the richness of

vegetable stews and rice and dal preparations.

OK, so here I go…I have to mention curry powder, and yes, it is

used in this region. However, curry powders are as unique in India

as your Italian grandmother’s Sunday gravy recipes. Curry powder

is a masala—a mix, a blend, unique to every cook’s kitchen and not a

generic blend of stale spices that are pre-ground

and have the taste of old gunpowder. (Do you

get the impression I don’t like purchased curry

powder?) Great flavor takes time and a little

effort, but what in life that’s worth anything

doesn’t? Make your own masala; have fun with

it. When it comes to spices, one size definitely

doesn’t fit all.

The East—Fish CookeryHere lies an often misunderstood part of Indian

cuisine: the mastery of fish cookery. Many species of fish, both fresh

and salt water, are abundant in Bengal and Bihar, which have access

to rivers and seas. In this region, cooks’ knowledge of fish preparation

rivals that of any other culture known for its fish dishes. With India’s

hot climate, storing and transporting fish while maintaining its

freshness is a challenge, so the consumption of fish is limited to areas

near where it is caught.

The use of spices such as mustard seeds and cumin, combined with

the perfume aromas and mouth-pleasing effects of anise and the up-

front bitterness of fenugreek, provide a unique and flavorful sauce to

accompany the East’s many fish dishes. One seed-and-spice masala

blend of the area is the panch phoron, which provides a dynamic

flavor profile to any fish, vegetable, or lentil dish. Try using the tarka

method to transform its flavor qualities.

The West—A Study in ContrastsAh, my favorite…I was once asked what my last meal would be and

yes, it comes from this region. Before “popping my clogs,” I would

gratefully accept a nice lamb vindaloo.

Vindaloo was heavily influenced by the Portuguese during their

occupation of Goa. The foods of Goa do tend to be spicy and use a

considerable amount of coconut, along with yogurt and tamarind

paste, to provide relief from the spice. Dishes in western India are

cooked for long periods—“low and slow”—allowing every gram of spice

to makes its contribution to the symphony of wonderfully rich flavor.

There’s no tastier way to cleanse the palate than to enjoy some of

the famous fruit ice creams, cold custards, and sharbats—fruit juices

blended with yogurt that are so thick you could stand a spoon upright

in them. Do you detect the cleverness of the Indian chef when it comes

to balance and palate-entertaining traditions? Hot and cold, sweet and

sour…brilliant.

The Central Region—India’s Culinary Melting PotCentral India is a melting pot of all Indian cuisines and traditions,

with a special emphasis on sophisticated techniques and ingredients.

In this region, beef and dairy products are

consumed. The region is also home to mughlai

cuisine, a culinary and cultural fusion of Indian

and Persian foods and ingredients with a lavish

use of meat and rice dishes, dried fruits, nuts,

cream, yogurt, and aromatic spices. It is truly the

haute cuisine of India.

Indian Flavors—Striking the Perfect NoteAs we often refer to our profession as “the

industry of thieves”—stealing ideas from many a source and then

adding our own twist—I encourage you to wholeheartedly dip your

hands into the pockets of Indian food and culture. Use what you

borrow wisely, passionately, and with respect in the creation of your

own interpretation of a dish. India’s cuisine, culture, and people

are here! Indian-Americans are a fast-growing group in the United

States and as a chef you will at some point in your career need to

demonstrate a knowledge of and passion for Indian flavors, and an

ability to cater to the educated palates of your guests. So put away the

pre-ground curry powder, dispel the misconception of Indian cuisine

as hot, and educate and tempt others away from the idea that Indian

food is just curry.

Phillip Crispo is an assistant professor of culinary arts at the CIA. He holds

ProChef® Level III certification from the CIA and a certified executive chef

credential from the ACF, and is a certified hospitality educator.

Curry powders are as unique in India as your Italian grandmother’s Sunday gravy recipe.

14

The clanging of cowbells. The waving of

homemade signs bedecked with glitter and

paint. The raucous shouts and screams of

encouragement. The Olympic Winter Games

at Vancouver? Nope. To those in the food

world, something even better—the Bocuse d’Or

competition at the CIA!

For two days the CIA’s Hyde Park campus was transformed into

a venue fit for the rock stars of the culinary world. The great Paul

Bocuse established the Bocuse d’Or, one of the most coveted culinary

prizes, in 1987. It is fostered by the recently established Bocuse d’Or

Foundation, which is committed to building a sustainable community

of young American chefs who are knowledgeable in their career

pursuits and will be lifelong ambassadors of quality and excellence

in the world of gastronomy. The winner of the Bocuse d’Or USA will

head to Lyon, France for the 2011 Bocuse d’Or International Culinary

Competition.

The two-day event at the CIA included book signings, panel

discussions, cooking demonstrations, and, of course, the actual

competition. On Friday, while the 12 contesting chefs and their

2010 BOCuse d’Or usA WINNer JAmes KeNT’s sAlmON CreATION

The eAGer CrOWd CAreFully WATChes The JudGes’ reACTIONs As They TAsTe eACh dIsh

The COmpeTITION KITCheNs ANd JudGes’ TABle AWAIT The sTArT OF The COmpeTITION

CheF CrIspO GuIdING A sTudeNT

15

commis prepped in the CIA’s continuing education kitchens,

the Student Recreation Center gym was turned into a formal

competition site. Four kitchens, scrupulously designed to mimic

those the winner will face in Lyon, were erected behind long

tables set up for the event judges. In front of that, only a velvet

rope would separate the judges from the bleachers filled with

frenzied CIA students, foodies, families, and friends.

Friday started with a book signing by Thomas Keller of the

French Laundry at 11 a.m. Students started lining up at

4 a.m. to ensure that they could speak to him and get him to

sign their books. Andrew Friedman, author of Knives at Dawn;

David Chang, author of Momofuku; and Charlie Trotter, author

of a number of books, were on hand to meet one-on-one with

students and sign books as well. A highlight of that first day was

Charlie Trotter’s standing-room-only demonstration. He paid

homage to the Scottish salmon and American lamb dishes the

contestants were to prepare by creating two such dishes while

sharing anecdotes about the great Julia Child and Paul Bocuse.

He told students that Bocuse had caused a schism in European

culinary circles when he sent his only son, Jerome, to The

Culinary Institute of America for his culinary education.

In the afternoon, a panel of culinary giants gathered for a

discussion on the topic “Crafting Your Career.” During the

panel, moderated by President Tim Ryan, participants were

asked to describe, “in one word,” what it takes to be successful

in this field. Each of the chefs had an interesting and different

answer. Daniel Boulud–Ambition; Michael Cimarusti

’91–Consistency; Traci Des Jardins–Perseverance; Daniel

Humm–Commitment; Thomas Keller–Determination; Walter

Manske–Will; Alain Sailhac–Curiosity; Laurent Tourondel–

Focus; and Jerome Bocuse ’94–A great smile.

Saturday began at 6 a.m. for contestants who were scheduled

to reveal their fish platters at precisely 8:20 a.m. Eager CIA

students, family, and friends filled the stands early, including the

family of alumnus Michael Clauss ’95 of The Daily Planet in

Burlington, VT—even though Michael wasn’t due to present his

first platter until 4:40 p.m. No matter; they were there for the

dIsTINGuIshed pANelIsTs shAre ThOmAs Keller’s humOr AT The “CrAFTING yOur CAreer” dIsCussION led By dr. ryAN

mIChAel ClAuss ‘95 ANd CIA sTudeNT COmmIs mArCellA OGrOdNICK plATe FIsh dIsh

www.ciaalumninetwork.com16

James Kent’s winning dishes…Salmon pave with leeks, osetra caviar,

and fumé blanc sauce garnished

with a roulade of Alaska king crab,

cucumber relish, Meyer lemon-chilled

mousse, tartare and roe, and pickled

heirloom beets with crème fraîche,

dill, and black pepper.

Bacon-wrapped saddle of lamb with

piquillo peppers and Provençal

herbs, vol-au-vent of braised leg with

sweetbreads and preserved lemon,

zucchini with Lynnhaven chèvre frais

cheese and mint, and a tart of tomato

confit with basil, niçoise olives, and

fromage blanc.

long haul armed with their cowbells, signs, fierce pride,

and sense of excitement.

Four of the 12 contestants were CIA alumni: Luke

Bergman ’02, sous chef at the Modern in New York

City; Percy Whatley ’97, executive chef at Ahwahanee,

Yosemite National Park; Mark Liberman ’98, executive

chef at Roxy’s Black Sheep, West Palm Beach, FL; and,

of course, Michael Clauss. Each of them had a CIA

student serving as his commis, which added another

dimension of excitement for their fellow classmates in

attendance. “This event is what the CIA is about,” said

Associate Vice President of Business Development Victor

Gielisse. “This is a total community effort and one of our

primary goals is to inspire young culinarians to culinary

excellence. It’s also wonderful to see how accessible these

culinary giants have made themselves to our students.”

All of the chefs performed amazingly but only one could

win. That person was James Kent of Eleven Madison

Park in New York City. He and his commis will practice,

practice, practice between now and Lyon in the hopes

of bringing home the gold to the U.S. Other winners

included Percy Whatley for best meat platter; Jennifer

Petrusky, sous chef at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, for

best fish platter; and Marcella Ogrodnick, who assisted

Michael Clauss, for best commis.

WINNers JAmes KeNT ANd COmmIs TOm AlleN pOse WITh dANIel BOulud, ThOmAs Keller, JerOme BOCuse, ANd OThers

The BOCuse d’Or usA AWArds dINNer IN FArquhArsON hAll

perCy WhATley ‘97 WON BesT meAT plATe FOr hIs lAmB dIsh

mise en place no.52, June 2010 17

Serious About SpicesBy Andrea Morris

Le Sanctuaire creates an aura of mystery. It begins at the store’s front door where there

are no markings or indications of what lies within. And then once inside, the showroom

with its minimalist display of books, modern cooking and serving utensils, and

lighting make you sure you have found a very unique place. Much of the studio

space, which is painted in shades of gray, is designed to showcase the glass jars

of brilliantly colored spices. You find yourself enveloped in a world of deep

purple beet powder, golden saffron threads, and rich brown vanilla beans—still

plump and moist—as well as powders and pods that almost glow. With the

combination of these exotic ingredients and the myriad rare and unusual

kitchen tools, it is easy to see why this store has become a favorite of so

many chefs, both local to San Francisco and across the nation.

Though the store seems perfectly comfortable in its penthouse space

overlooking the copper lion-flanked gate to Chinatown, it has only

been in this location since 2007. It was originally opened in 2003

in Santa Monica, where the owner, Jing Tio, had moved from

Surabaya, near Indonesia. He came to the U.S. to pursue a

career in accounting but soon realized that his true passion was

cooking. Disillusioned by the spices he found in the grocery

store, Tio began importing them from around the world as

well as creating his own blends such as Madras curry and

Ras el Hanout—which in Arabic means “head of the shop”

or the best spice blend a seller can offer. He sold his

spices alongside high-end serving pieces and equipment.

Once chefs discovered his premium quality products,

it became clear that his business would fare better in

a more chef-centric city. Jing Tio chose to relocate to

an unmarked storefront in San Francisco, where a

visit to the showroom is by appointment only.

Despite this self-imposed “seclusion,” fans of Tio’s

well-edited selection of products keep coming

back. Elizabeth Falkner, chef and owner of

both Citizen Cake and Orson in San Francisco,

has been hooked on the store since she first

encountered the spices back in 2007. “The aroma

of the cloves, long pepper, and cardamom—I wasn’t

even sure if I had ever encountered real spices before!”

she enthused as she shopped at the store for Christmas presents.

Le Sanctuaire hand-delivers ingredients to many of the area’s top

restaurants, like Michael Mina and Masa’s.

Chefs call Jing Tio the “miracle worker” because of his reputation for

being able to find any spice. But scanning the multi-hued canisters

of spices, it’s difficult to imagine needing anything else. Irwandi

Tio, a product specialist at the showroom, revealed how they buy

directly from the farmers

to keep prices down, while

maintaining the highest

quality possible. “For years, we

got our white pepper from one

seller in Malaysia, but when he

stopped using clean, flowing water

to rinse away the black skins, we

had to switch to another plantation,”

he remembered as he reached for

particularly pungent white peppercorns.

With a selection of nine different peppers

and 15 varieties of salt, it is clear that

these two basic seasonings have been

elevated to new heights at Le Sanctuaire.

When asked about spices that are gaining a

foothold in modern cuisine, Irwandi pointed

to the row of spice blends, each one mixed

by Jing Tio himself, explaining, “These have

become so popular that we are working on a more

accessible retail line.” As for the growing interest in

more unusual ingredients such as licorice sticks and

mace blades, he said that diners on the East Coast tend

to have more adventurous palates and are comfortable

layering flavors, while the West Coast is still very focused

on the clean, pure flavors of the main ingredients.

However, a few trends have emerged across the country that

are of note. More frequently, savory spices have begun to show

up in desserts. Le Sanctuaire’s Vadouvan Golden curry powder—

containing dried onions, garlic, and shallots—is used to flavor a sweet

ice cream at Daniel Patterson’s restaurant Coi. Irwandi also foresees

salt keeping its high popularity in restaurants and households, because

it is both an accessible flavor and relatively inexpensive.

As diners become more comfortable with new flavors and as ethnic

cuisines become ever more prevalent, spices will likely become more

easily procured and widespread. The team at Le Sanctuaire hopes

that as the public becomes familiar with different spices, they will

seek out a higher-quality selection than those found on supermarket

racks. This view is hard to argue with as Irwandi crumbles a tightly

scrolled Sri Lankan cinnamon stick, filling the air with the perfume of

spiced apple cider.

Andrea Morris is a 2010 B.P.S. candidate.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com18

It was a glorious night. Friends of the CIA came

out to honor three of the culinary world’s brightest

stars and support the college’s Scholarship Fund.

It was a particularly warm and inviting event as

the honorees—Alumni of the Year Cat Cora ’95

and Chris Muller ’88, and Chef of the Year Eric

Ripert—accepted their Augies with a humility

and grace that belied their remarkable careers.

Each honoree’s acceptance speech addressed

the importance of the CIA in shaping the next

generation of culinary leaders.

When Eric Ripert, co-owner and chef at Le

Bernardin in New York City, called the CIA

“the best culinary school in America,” the crowd

politely applauded. When he elaborated by saying,

“In fact, it is the best culinary college in the

world,” a roar went up that filled the hall. And, in

a direct message to the 50 students in attendance,

Chef Ripert spoke of how an educated chef

always chooses to use ingredients that are grown

sustainably and raised humanely.

Cat Cora—whose many professional roles include,

the only female Iron Chef, executive chef at Bon

Appétit, co-founder of Chefs for Humanity, author,

and restaurateur—spoke emotionally about her

CIA experience. “Julia Child told me that I had to

attend the CIA if I wanted to become a great chef.

If not for her advice, I wouldn’t be who I am. And

if not for the great chef-instructors at the CIA, I

wouldn’t be standing here today…it’s like coming

full circle.”

Chris Muller, chef de cuisine at Le Bernardin, has

helped extend the education of more than 1,000

CIA students through his Saturday stages, exposing

them to the meticulous work and unrelenting

excellence of a 3-star Michelin restaurant. He spoke

of his gratitude to the CIA for the foundation of

skills he took with him upon graduating.

This year’s event was filled with mutual admiration,

kind words, wonderful stories about the college,

and the realization that everyone in the room was a

true believer in the mission of the CIA.

Stars Shine Bright at Augies

mAsTer OF CeremONIes KeVIN zrAly eNTerTAINs The CrOWd

CAT COrA ACCepTs her AuGIe ANd ChAmpIONs The CIA

dr. ryAN WITh ChrIs muller, erIC rIperT, ANd CAT COrA

A JuBlIANT erIC rIperT dIsplAys AuGIe

CIA sTudeNTs mAN The mCCOrmICK hOrs d’OeuVre TABle

ChrIs muller GrACIOusly ACCepTs hIs AuGIe

mise en place no.52, June 2010 19

Following the Presidential TrailThe beginning of 2010 was extremely busy for President Tim Ryan.

Between updating the entire CIA family at his annual State of

the Institute and overseeing the preparations for the Bocuse d’Or

competition on our Hyde Park campus, there was barely time to

breathe. Despite the demands of these two major events, Tim made

time to, among other things, share his experience with students and

his expertise on National Public Radio.

Live on NPR Tim was recently spotlighted in a live interview on WAMC/

Northeast Public Radio’s Roundtable program. The show chose the

CIA as the venue for a live three-hour broadcast about the college,

our student-staffed restaurants, and food trends. Several faculty

members and students were also interviewed, and the hosts gave

the school some wonderful PR by raving on air about the food

prepared by our chefs and students.

A Presidential AddressWhen Tim presented his State of the Institute address for the CIA’s

more than 600 faculty and staff, his primary goal was to ensure that

there is organizational clarity regarding our mission, vision for the

future, and strategic plan. Focusing on what staff and faculty can

do during these challenging economic times to support the college

and its mission was also at the top of the list of items Tim discussed.

At the same time, he outlined the many exciting things that are

going on at the CIA. Tim shared updates on the college’s integrated

plan, green campus initiative, new communications campaign, and

upcoming changes to our Greystone and San Antonio campuses.

Recognizing that the CIA wouldn’t have the success it does

without the help if its “family,” Tim presented an inspirational and

entertaining segment during which he presented Staff and Faculty

of the Year awards, celebrated anniversaries, and shared some fun

and highly entertaining video clips. Following the presentation, the

entire campus community enjoyed a luncheon and entertainment

by “1964: The Beatles Tribute Band” in the Student Recreation

Center.

Students Gather to Hear PrezIn February, students assembled at the Danny Kaye Theatre to

hear Tim speak about trends, food ethics, and food democracy. He

held two sessions to accommodate both a.m. and p.m. classes. The

students were a great audience and asked a number of thought-

provoking and excellent questions.

Leading Bocuse d’Or PanelOn the first day of the Bocuse d’Or event, Tim moderated a

fascinating panel discussion on “Crafting Your Career.” He

skillfully led panelists Jerome Bocuse ’94, Daniel Boulud, Michael

Cimarusti ’91, Traci Des Jardins, Daniel Humm, Thomas Keller,

Paul Liebrandt, Walter Manzke, Alain Sailhac, and Laurent

Tourondel through such topics as the qualities they look for when

hiring new staff, career advice, necessity for additional training in

Europe, classical training vs. new wave methods, the casualization

of American dining, and potential governmental monitoring/

restrictions on fat, salt, etc. Students packed the room and hung on

every word.

Stars Shine Bright at Augies

www.ciaalumninetwork.com20

The last issue of mise en place got me thinking. If our alumni have

unusual hobbies, so too must our very talented faculty. With that

in mind, I discovered just how multi-faceted some of our CIA

team really is.

Rudolf Spiess, Beekeeper Lecturing Instructor in Baking and Pastry Arts

It started out as a casual favor for a colleague. Chef Rudy Spiess

offered to store some of Chef Mark Ainsworth’s honeybees while

he sold his house. Little did Rudy know that the keeping

of honeybees would become his passion. And now, not

only does he keep bees at home, he also generously

volunteers with students from the CIA’s Chefs Sustaining

Agriculture Club to maintain hives on the Hyde Park

campus. At home, he lives on three wooded acres

that provide plenty of wildlife for him to observe. As

a result, he’s become quite an expert on the habits of

honeybees. Finding a swarm and relocating it is one of

the main ways to build a hive. It is easier said than done,

however, and Rudy has climbed his share of trees in

pursuit of lively swarms, only to be thwarted by bees with minds

of their own. Not only is it complicated to catch a swarm, he has

discovered many predators on his property, waiting to pounce

on his precious bees. One afternoon he spied a bullfrog in his

pond that managed to munch on 10 bees within 20 minutes. Rudy

would have none of this, however, and developed a sort of reverse

“witness protection program” for his bees by relocating the frog

several different times to keep it from making a meal out of them.

Now we ask you, could anyone “bee” more devoted to a hobby?

Elana Raider, Cyclist Associate Professor in Liberal Arts

As a child growing up in Los Angeles, Lani

Raider was forced to ride a bike to school.

Then, while a student at UC Santa Cruz, a

bike was a necessity in order to navigate the

mammoth campus. Her dorm room was at

the top of a huge hill, and with the aid of an

upgraded mountain bike, Lani got into good

enough shape to climb the mountain with

ease. Years went by when Lani didn’t think

much about cycling. It was while watching

the Tour de France three years ago that her

Faculty AmusementsBy Jennifer O’Neill

mise en place no.52, June 2010 21

interest in cycling was rekindled. She met a personal trainer—

now her cycling partner—and a group of other CIA faculty who

loved cycling. Lani began taking 65- and 100-mile bike rides. As

someone who eats only unprocessed, organic, and “clean” foods,

Lani prides herself—while out on a ride—on maintaining a balance

of calories in/calories out and of keeping a regimen for staying

hydrated. At a rest stop during a particularly hot and grueling 100-

mile ride, however, Lani found herself freezing—something was

very wrong. She realized that she wasn’t taking in enough calories

to fuel her body. Lani’s cycling partner handed her an energy

drink. At first, Lani resisted drinking the processed beverage.

But realizing what she had to do, she drank it and was able to

finish the race with no problem. Only after the race did

Lani realize she had drunk a Rockstar caffeinated

energy drink—something she would never have

dreamed of touching since it is one of the

most artificial and processed drinks one can

consume. A realist, Lani discovered that

though she chooses to live “clean,” there is a time

and a place for an “artificial” boost!

Richard Coppedge, Jr., C.M.B., Lumberjack Professor in Baking and Pastry Arts

When Chef Rich Coppedge isn’t proofing yeast or developing

gluten-free flour mixtures, you may find him in the woods scoping

out trees to fell. An amateur lumberjack for the past 10 years, Rich

has been cutting down trees and chopping wood both as a hobby

and as fuel for his home. He also “spreads the warmth around”

by selling cords of wood to other CIA employees. Lumberjacking

hasn’t always been a “piece of cake” for this baker, though. Once

while he was taking down a tree, it dropped in an unexpected way

and caught Rich in the face—breaking it in eight places. Recovery

was slow and he had to subsist on a liquid diet. Frustration reached

its peak at a Memorial Day barbecue when he was unable to

partake in the classic picnic fare. He decided there was “more than

one way to skin a cat” and put a hot dog with mustard and beer

in the blender and drank it. Much to his surprise, the concoction

actually tasted good!

John Fischer ’88, Spinner Associate Professor in

Hospitality and Ser-

vice Management

Upon hearing that

John Fischer is

into “spinning,”

I had visions of

him pedaling away on a bike in an

exercise studio, working up a sweat to bass-heavy rock

music. But I was wrong. John Fischer is a spinner of wool, not

bicycle wheels. His hobby started when he accompanied

his wife Nathalie, an avid knitter, to the New York

State Sheep and Wool Festival. As he waited for

Nathalie to do her shopping—a scene he likens to

hanging around outside a dressing room holding

your wife’s purse—John became entranced with the

wool spinning demonstration. He investigated and

found a spinning guild in nearby Red Hook, NY.

The vice president of the guild, Mary Kelley, took John

under her wing and tutored him every Tuesday for several

months in this old-fashioned art. John became Mary’s star pupil.

He explains, “Once you’ve figured out what it’s supposed to feel

like, spinning, like cooking, requires ‘touch.’” Though John is

comfortable participating in a hobby enjoyed mostly by women, he

firmly states, “To retain my manhood quotient, I often spin while

drinking beer and watching football.”

Jennifer O’Neill is a CIA alumni relations officer.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com22

CIA Students Making Memories

mise en place no.52, June 2010 23

It’s said t

hat memories

from our

college y

ears are

often th

e most vivid

. Maybe it’s

because

the

world seem

s to revo

lve aroun

d you—your

interest

s, passion

s, and

personal

dramas. L

ots of m

oments com

e togeth

er to fo

rm the impres

sion

you carr

y away w

ith you w

hen you

graduate

. At the CIA the

se memories

might inclu

de a knif

e skills le

sson, cre

ating a w

edding ca

ke, servin

g a patro

n in

the Escof

fier Resta

urant, making

a terrine

for the

first time, or

receiving

sage adv

ice from a fa

vorite fac

ulty member.

Or maybe it’s

the shar

ed

moments of p

ure joy a

nd relaxat

ion that

take plac

e outside

of class

that

forge th

e memories of a

lifetime an

d friends

hips that

last. Here

are a few

of those

memories, made

by CIA stu

dents in

2009.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com24

Book Shelf

Artisan Breads at HomeBy Eric W. Kastel ’90

This addition to the CIA’s

“At Home” series is perfect

for the home baker in

your life who wants to

go beyond the basics

to create delectable

artisan breads. In this book, Certified

Master Baker Eric Kastel leads readers through both

simple and challenging recipes, including baguettes, peasant bread,

ciabatta, cheddar onion rye rolls, coffee cake, and sourdough.

Featuring troubleshooting tips and nearly 170 full-color photos

of techniques and finished breads, this book covers the basics of

bread making as well as advanced techniques.

The Big Sur Bakery Cookbook: A Year in the Life of a RestaurantBy Michelle Wojtowicz

’98 and Philip

Wojtowicz ’98

Serendipity brought Michelle

and Philip Wojtowicz to Big Sur to open their

restaurant behind a gas station. But it was a combination of

vision, experience, and, ironically, the ability to relax and enjoy

their surroundings that has made their restaurant a success. In

their book, they share a seasonal look at the food they so expertly

prepare. Each chapter highlights an ingredient like honey or

focuses on a specific holiday. Throughout, there are short Q&As

with their purveyors and friends. This book offers a unique look

into the heart of Big Sur.

The Modern CaféBy Francisco Migoya

This professional guide to

every aspect of the launch

and management of a

modern, upscale café is

the first comprehensive

reference for the

aspiring restaurateur

or café owner

who wants to get

every detail just right. An exquisitely

illustrated volume, The Modern Café offers expert

advice and nearly 250 contemporary recipes for breakfast pastries,

artisanal sandwiches, truffles and treats, and much more. The book

focuses its attention on the key areas of a café—the bakery, the

pastry shop, the savory kitchen, beverages, and the retail shelf—

offering invaluable information on finances, human resources, food

production, recipe/menu development, and even décor. The Modern

Café offers both inspiration and instruction for anyone who wants

to operate a successful café.

Mother’s Best: Comfort Food That Takes You Home AgainBy Lisa Schroeder ’95

In Lisa Schroeder’s one-

of-a-kind book, Mother’s

Best, she has gathered 150

recipes seasoned generously with wisdom and

tips that teach how to become a more confident cook. Scattered

throughout the book are “love notes” that help demystify

ingredients and explain the “why” and “how” of different

techniques. This is perfect for the chef or food enthusiast who is

interested in preserving the home cooking traditions of mothers

from around the world.

mise en place no.52, June 2010 25

Spring is here and it’s the perfect time to celebrate the herb gardens

that come to life on the CIA’s Hyde Park and Greystone campuses.

As the ultimate in outdoor classrooms, the herb gardens provide our

students with the opportunity to learn the art of cultivating and cooking

with more than 60 types of culinary herbs.

At Greystone, the Cannard Herb Garden was established in 1989 with

a generous gift from the Cannard Fund. It was donor Bob Cannard’s

deep and abiding love of the Sonoma/Napa Valley and long-standing

wish to be involved with the CIA that prompted his gift. His generosity

made it possible for the CIA to install the necessary staircases,

terracing, and plantings that grew into the glorious herb garden that

exists today outside the main facility on the Greystone campus.

In 2000, the Hyde Park campus was abuzz with construction trucks as

the Colavita Center for Italian Food and Wine was slowly emerging

from the barren ground. The resulting Tuscan-style building cried out

for a garden in front. It was with support and sponsorship from Durkee,

a worldwide herbs and spices company, that a beautiful herb garden

was created. Opened in May 2001, the Durkee Herb Garden Plaza

resides on the building’s south side adjacent to the al fresco dining area.

The garden provides over 8,700 square feet of space for herbs, edible

flowers, heirloom vegetables, and ornamental

flowers, and is a dynamic part of life and

education for our students.

Of course, these two garden classrooms can’t

possibly fulfill the herb and spice needs of a

three-campus college. Every year the CIA

receives approximately $50,000 in donated

spices for our students’ use. You can only begin

to imagine the scope of our sponsors’ generosity

when you understand that every year they send

us 1,500 pounds of whole black pepper, 88

pounds of star anise, 320 industrial-size jars of

cinnamon sticks, and 200 jars of whole cumin

seeds—just to name four of the 55 spices they

donate to the CIA.

We appreciate all our donors who make such a

huge difference in the quality and consistency

of the educational experience we provide for

each who passes through our doors—and wish

to thank them.

Outdoor Herbal Classrooms

sTudeNTs hArVesT herBs FrOm The CANNArd herB GArdeN ON The GreysTONe CAmpus

The durKee herB GArdeN ON The hyde pArK CAmpus

www.ciaalumninetwork.com26

Sheila Stone ’03Right out of high school, Sheila

Stone enlisted in the Navy to

follow her dream of adventure

and to see the world. And she

did! Landing a plum position

as photographer’s mate on the

White House television unit,

she traveled the world recording

history and documenting the

President’s day-to-day activities. “It was addictive to watch world

events unfold before your eyes,” she explained. But it was those same

events that pulled her from her photography job into combat duty in

both Haiti and Somalia.

Retired from the service after 20 years, Sheila got a job on the NBC

show Politics with Chris Matthews and then with the White House Press

Corps for ABC News. However, family obligations meant a return

to her native Washington State. She found a job in a restaurant and

simply fell in love with cooking. But it was only after the tragic events

of September 11 that she decided to act on her passion for food. A

former shipmate, who had always talked about wanting to be a chef

and attend the CIA, died during the attack on the Pentagon. Inspired

by his memory, Sheila took courage in hand and enrolled.

Today, Sheila is a private chef who often gets the opportunity to live

in the home of her clients. She’s worked for timber kings in the Puget

Sound area of Washington State and renowned East Coast lawyers,

to name a few. Sheila loves the challenge of “taking what might look

on paper like a boring diet or controlled nutritional limitation and

turning it into something tasty and appealing,” she explains. Always

experimenting with flavor and texture, Sheila can still be found

traveling the world, one dish at a time.

Anne Haerle ’08No matter how hard you looked,

you’d be hard-pressed to find

anyone who loves learning

more than Anne Haerle. Before

she even set her sights on

studying at the CIA, she had

already earned three degrees—a

bachelor’s in fine arts in graphic

design from the University of

Kentucky in Lexington, KY; a

Career Changers…Changed LivesMost career changers will tell you that they always knew they had an

interest in the culinary arts but detoured through other, often very

satisfying, careers before acting on their passion for food. The CIA

has a long history of embracing the career changer. We wanted to

introduce you to a few of them…

Andy Nusser ’95Standing at the intersection of

“art” and “commerce” you’ll

find Andy Nusser, partner and

executive chef at Tarry Lodge in

Port Chester, NY. The route he

took to get there was illuminated

by the influences of family,

science, serendipity, and his own

inevitable passion.

Andy came from a family that was serious about both eating (his

father founded The Santa Barbara Eating Society) and the arts (his

family members were painters, actors, and musicians). He began his

work life at General Motors where he filed design drawings in his

position as clerk. That led to subsequent jobs as draftsman, CAD

operator, and finally associate engineer. But as Andy tells it, even

after 10 years at GM, he still had nothing in common with his cubicle

buddies. To his way of thinking, he had not fulfilled the Nusser family

artistic legacy!

Downsizing at GM translated into opportunity for Andy. He took a

chance and headed straight to the CIA, where he found his artistic

expression in the culinary arts. Always a fan of multitasking, he

thrived on “having six burners on high, loaded with sauté pans, and

cranking out food.” After graduating at the top of his class, Andy

worked to help create culinary gems in the miniscule kitchen at Po,

Mario Batali’s Greenwich Village restaurant in New York City. In

1998, Andy opened the kitchen of Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich’s

Babbo Ristorante. He helped earn the restaurant a three-star review

from The New York Times and the title of Best New Restaurant from the

James Beard Foundation. In 2003, Andy and his partners Batali and

Bastianich opened Casa Mono and Bar Jamón. Zagat rated the bar the

number one Spanish restaurant in NYC.

Andy is always looking for the next artistic challenge. No doubt he

will find it and succeed. With two children of his own, he is pretty sure

that the Nusser family artistic legacy will make its way into the next

generation.

mise en place no.52, June 2010 27

master of science in communication design from Pratt Institute in New

York City; and a master of business administration from the University

of Westminster in London, England.

After a number of years working in the field of design, and feeling

that her life was sedentary, Anne began a regimen of exercise and

nutritious eating that helped her to not only trim down, but also

recognize her passion for healthy food and the art of cooking. Her

quest to feed that newfound passion meant leaving her family behind

on the west coast and entering the A.O.S. program on the CIA’s Hyde

Park campus. A seasoned student, Anne immediately became a class

leader, deeply involved in many projects on campus both in and

outside the kitchens and classrooms.

Upon graduation she returned to Seattle where she landed a dream

job at The Herbfarm. This celebrated restaurant and inn showcases

the exceptional food and wines of the Pacific Northwest. As a rounds

cook, Anne is being allowed to try her hand at working with a wide

variety of ingredients. In fact, she is encouraged to take part in cheese

making, preparing charcuterie, and working in the vegetable garden.

“What I really love about this job is that it lets me take my creativity

and channel it in a different way,” Anne explains. “It’s like being in

graduate school. You get from it as much as you put into it.” That’s

vintage Anne Haerle—always passionate about learning!

Dennis Pitchford ’08Dennis Pitchford loves a good

symphony. And it really doesn’t

matter to him if it’s a symphony

of sound, of movement, or of

flavor—he’s there, enjoying and

working. When he served as

marketing director for the Dallas

Symphony Orchestra, he also

took the time to coordinate with the venue’s restaurants to create

menus that were in sync with the musical program. It was there that

the chef encouraged him to pursue a degree at the CIA, explaining

to Dennis that the college always delivered great professionals.

“Attending the CIA was an enormous leap of faith for me,” Dennis

explained. “But I felt I really couldn’t go wrong if I pursued what

I loved.”

No stranger to education when he enrolled at the CIA, Dennis

had already earned a bachelor’s degree in music at Florida State

University, and both a master of business administration and a master

of arts from Southern Methodist University in Dallas, TX. Already in

his thirties, he brought vast professional and life experience with him

that informed everything he did. So, it was no surprise that he was

chosen by his fellow students as their group leader and that he was the

recipient of a number of scholarships and awards for both scholastic

and management excellence.

These days, Dennis is corporate chef at Noble/The Food Channel

Culinary Center and Studios in Springfield, MO, a company that

specializes in recipe and product development, food styling, and

photography, as well as trend analysis for the foodservice industry.

Dennis loves his work because at last, his interests in business, the arts,

and food are in perfect harmony.

Steve Swofford ’97Steve Swofford says he learned all

about mise en place when he was

quartermaster in charge of food

for his Boy Scout troop’s camping

trips. “You had to be organized

and decide what pots and pans

you needed and the quantities

of food you had to buy. When I

helped cook using Dutch ovens over the open fire, and I knew I had

found something I loved to do.” But he never really imagined having a

professional life that centered on food.

Steve earned a business degree from Baylor University in Waco,

TX, and upon graduating he began a long and satisfying career at

American Airlines (AA). From his modest start in reservations, he

became an instructor in the air cargo division. That ultimately led

to his job as base manager for flight service out of Boston’s Logan

Airport. In that job he oversaw supervisors, instructors, and 850 flight

attendants. He was responsible for what happened in the cabin of the

aircraft—from catering discrepancies to passenger complaints, from

personnel issues to in-flight menu cycles. At that time, many members

of the food and beverage department at American Airlines were CIA

grads. Knowing Steve’s ongoing interest in food, they encouraged him

to attend the college.

The decision to leave AA was frightening, but Steve recalls how

amazing it felt to be in class and finally be doing something he so

completely loved and had a passion for. “I had great classmates.

We all got along so well. And, most of us were career changers,” he

explains. After graduating with an A.O.S. degree in culinary arts,

Steve immediately enrolled in the 30-week baking and pastry arts

certificate program. He came to the attention of then-chef-instructor

Markus Farbinger, and assisted him in rewriting the baking and pastry

curriculum. Loving the work and the place, Steve never left the CIA.

He took a job in Career Services for two years and then transferred

over to Alumni Relations, where he has been ever since. Over the

years, he’s worn many hats and had many jobs within the department,

but one thing is sure—Steve Swofford couldn’t be happier that he

decided to make the change and follow his first love into a satisfying

second career.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com28

WOHF Takes on Big Issues

ObesityAccording to Dr. Sonya Angell, director of the cardio-

vascular disease prevention and control program for the

New York City Department of Health and Hygiene, two-

thirds of Americans are either overweight or obese. One of

the many ways to reduce obesity is to limit calorie intake. At

the conference, volume foodservice operators discussed ways

they could play a leadership role in this effort by providing

nutrition and calorie information on menus and offering

smaller portions and a broader choice of reduced-calorie

items. But the consumer needs more education to benefit

from these changes, according to Dr. Angell. In a survey of

customers at chain restaurants where calorie information

was posted, only 56% said they saw the information and

only 15% said they used that data to make a healthier

food choice.

Carbohydrate QualityDr. Walter Willett of Harvard School of Public Health–

Department of Nutrition stressed the importance of making

the change to whole grains at every foodservice point of

entry. Many of the refined carbohydrate-rich foods and

beverages on American menus are quickly digested and

convert to blood sugar. High glycemic load diets are closely

associated with increased risk of diabetes and heart disease.

Lilian Cheung, also of the Harvard School of Public Health,

walked participants through a tasting of four commercially

available beverages that meet Harvard’s beverage guidelines

of no more than one gram of sugar per fluid ounce.

SodiumA presentation by Dr. Lawrence Appel from Johns Hopkins Medical

Institutions provided a disturbing look at the effects of sodium on blood

pressure and heart disease. With the realization that almost 69% of

the population is susceptible to sodium, it is essential that foodservice

providers take sodium reduction seriously. Dr. Appel explained that,

for the other 39% of the population, the upper limits of daily sodium

consumption is 2,300 mg (one teaspoon) and that for the high-risk person

who is older, hypertensive, African American, or diabetic, that number

is only 1,500 mg. He explained that it is not the saltshaker on the table

that is of concern—it only provides about 6% of our intake. It’s not salt

added during cooking that worries him—that accounts for only 5% of our

intake. Rather, it’s the salt used in processed foods that gives us 77% of

our dietary sodium. Dr. Douglas Balentine, director of nutrition capability

at Unilever NA, spoke eloquently of the journey his company is taking

to reduce salt in its products. They have set goals to help their customers

make a 10% sodium reduction in their diets per year until 2015. Unilever is

also investigating natural salt replacements and breakthrough technologies

for stabilization and preservation purposes—a huge issue for purveyors of

processed foods. With the stakes being so high, governments all over the

world are getting involved in the issue of salt reduction, with the United

Kingdom and Finland successfully leading the way. Dr. Appel expects that

the U.S. will see major salt policies being enacted in the next 12 months.

After three days of lectures, discussions, and sampling delicious world-class

food that met or exceeded the criteria for healthy eating, participants at the

conference went away inspired and recommitted to addressing key health

issues for Americans.

For further information and access to presentations made at this year’s

Worlds of Healthy Flavors conference, visit www.ciaprochef.com/wohf2010.

Obesity, carbohydrate quality, and sodium were the hot topics of discussion at the 2010 Worlds of Healthy Flavors (WOHF) conference at Greystone in January. The initiative, begun in 2004 by the CIA and the Harvard School of Public Health–Department of Nutrition, brings together leading nutrition scientists, corporate chefs, foodservice menu decision-makers, world-class culinary experts, and media representatives to share information that will increase the scope of healthy menu choices available to consumers through American foodservice.

Though this conference is by invitation only, the topics discussed and solutions presented are of interest and use to all in the foodservice industry. It was clear from the gathering that foodservice must turn its expertise to helping address chronic diseases by changing the way America eats.

GreG dresCher, exeCuTIVe dIreCTOr OF sTrATeGIC INITIATIVes, INTrOduCes Key speAKers

mise en place no.52, June 2010 29

A Perfect Blend

What do you get when you mix McCormick

and Company, Inc., a global leader in spices,

herbs, and seasonings, and The Culinary

Institute of America? You get the perfect blend

of expertise to create a long-term and strategic

alliance. In just two short years, we’ve succeeded in

forming a truly unique partnership with McCormick

that supports culinary education on every level. Not only is

McCormick a major contributor in the areas of food science,

career services, and leadership conferences, the company also

donates herbs, spices, and a variety of products through our Gift-

in-Kind program, as well as participates in CIA Consulting and

the CIA’s annual leadership awards gala.

One of the significant areas of support is McCormick’s and the

CIA’s involvement in cross-disciplinary collaborative research

programs. In 2007, McCormick established The McCormick

Science Institute, an organization led by nutrition scientists that

conducts and disseminates research on the health benefits of

herbs and spices and their potential impact on the public. This

group has positioned McCormick at the cutting edge of the

food industry. Similarly, the CIA’s Menu Research and Flavor

Development Initiative (MRFDI) provides valuable knowledge

to culinary educators and the food industry. Their joint initiative

applies “the scientific method” to culinary research, thereby

advancing the profession. The outcomes of this research are then

applied to assist in solving complex business and societal issues.

McCormick’s partnership with MRFDI distinguishes it as an

industry leader that recognizes food as a valuable medium for

problem solving, discovery, and innovation. Dr. Chris Loss

’93, chair of the CIA’s Department of Menu Research and

Development, states, “The culinary field is inherently cross-

disciplinary and benefits greatly from partnerships such as the one

with McCormick, which recognizes the synergies of collaborative

efforts.”

According to Phil Kafarakis, vice president of Food Away

From Home for McCormick, “This CIA partnership is a prime

opportunity to celebrate the passion of the professional chef and

expose the culinary community to

McCormick’s experts and tool kit

of professional-grade products and

solutions. Flavor helps chefs express

culinary creativity and offer on-trend

dishes that appeal to their customers.”

Yet another way that McCormick shows

support to the CIA is by providing an

approved externship site for our students.

“We’re committed to helping prepare the

next generation of foodservice professionals

to be successful. Providing an in-depth view

into our suite of services, unique products, and

manufacturing perspective gives students a better

understanding of what it takes to offer unrivaled

flavor solutions, product innovation, and culinary

leadership,” explains Kafarakis. During the externship,

CIA students are encouraged to create recipes based on

real results from McCormick R&D scientists.

McCormick went above and beyond the role of externship host

by taking four CIA students with them to the annual National

Restaurant Association Show in Chicago in May 2009. By

working with McCormick at the influential industry event,

students were able to interact and network with many different

companies representing all aspects of the restaurant business.

It was a win-win for all involved as McCormick benefited from

fresh ideas and therefore plans on having students attend the show

again this May.

And finally, McCormick participates in and sponsors some of our

annual leadership conferences. These events bring manufacturers,

industry decision-makers, and customers together to create a

dynamic dialogue about all aspects of food and health. “Our

partnership enables us to maintain the leadership position within

our product categories. It’s truly a privilege to be aligned with the

world’s foremost authority in culinary education,” explains Phil

Kafarakis.

Lee Ellen Hayes, senior advancement officer at the CIA and

lead prospect manager working with McCormick, echoes those

sentiments. “It is through successful partnerships, such as the one

with McCormick, that the CIA is able to leverage our impact on

the foodservice industry. We greatly appreciate McCormick’s

participation in these collaborative efforts.”

Felicia Zammit is the CIA corporate relations manager.

By Felicia ZammitThe CIA & McCormick For Chefs

www.ciaalumninetwork.com30

Ed and Joanne ShapoffLead Donors for Taste of the CIA Endowed Scholarship Fund

What Motivates You to Give?Over our 14-year association with the CIA—whether celebrating a

special birthday with dinner at one of the restaurants or attending

a week-long Boot Camp—Joanne and I have noticed that every

student we’ve met has been special and enthusiastic. We know

it’s a lot of hard work to go through the program and that there

are good days and bad, but everyone we encounter is upbeat and

positive. The students take something that is within them and

let it flourish; they truly find themselves at the CIA. That excites

us. Every time we have dinner, we ask the students the same

questions—why did they come here? What do they like about

the school? What do they hope to do when they graduate? They

all beam! They are excited and proud of the education they are

receiving. This school makes a difference in their lives.

What Makes Giving Meaningful?We understand it can be an expensive proposition to attend the

CIA and that for some it is quite a reach to afford the tuition. A

substantial number of students are going to finish school with

large loans to satisfy. We know, too, that there is a high percentage

of students at the school who need support—almost 90 percent.

So it seems natural to want to contribute. This scholarship might

make a difference between someone being able to attend and not

being able to attend.

How Do You Give?It takes a minimum of $100,000 to endow a

scholarship at the college. You have got to begin

somewhere. We were fortunate to be able to do our

part to jump-start the scholarship fund with a pledge

of $25,000. We worked with the Advancement

Office to pledge this lead gift hoping that other food

enthusiasts who have experienced a taste of the CIA

would contribute the same. Gifts and pledges may be

added to the fund at any time. As the fund grows, so

does the amount available to CIA students who have

financial need.

If you would like to contribute to the Taste of the

CIA Endowed Scholarship Fund to benefit CIA

students, please contact Mame Dimock, director of

individual giving, at 845-451-1460 or m_dimock@

culinary.edu. You may also go to www.ciagiving.org.

Why Give?

JOANNe shApOFF (CeNTer) eNJOyING The CAmArAderIe AT A CIA BOOT CAmp

mise en place no.52, June 2010 31

Nadia Israwi ’09A.O.S. in Culinary Arts Current Baking and Pastry Arts Certificate student

Recipient of the Chipotle Mexican Grill Scholarship, Hiram Walker Foundation Endowed Scholarship, Robert W. Finkmann ’82 Working Chef Bursary Scholarship, and James F. Kleisner ’77 Scholarship

College HighlightsAttending the CIA gave me the opportunity to work with Lani

Raider, who is the faculty mentor for Chefs Sustaining Agriculture

(CSA). She opened my eyes to the role I play in the evolution

of gastronomy and how I can effect change. She advocates that

students think about what they place on a plate and how that meal

impacts the world around them. Participating in CSA was a life-

changing experience for me.

Through CSA I got to meet several Hudson Valley farmers who

viewed the CIA as the gateway to the next generation of great

chefs. The exchange of ideas we shared—and their excitement

at working together to create high quality food that doesn’t

compromise integrity—was enlightening. These relationships

fostered my interest in creating meals that use local and

sustainable ingredients.

Outside Interests/HobbiesAside from food and wine, traveling is my passion. I did my

externship in New Zealand. Before my externship I thought you

had to take time off from what you were doing to travel and then

return to your life. I now realize that it’s simple to intertwine my

life of food and my love of travel. Now I can go to completely

foreign cultures, learn their food, study their ingredients, and try

to grasp the culinary history through the people I meet. It never

ceases to amaze me that, despite our cultural differences, we’re all

pretty much the same.

Hopes for the FutureI’m hungry to keep learning. My decision to pursue a baking and

pastry arts certificate at Greystone is a result of what I learned on

my externship. In the mornings, I did pastry and at night I was on

the line. When I returned to Hyde Park and took pastry with Chef

George Higgins ’78, I learned more, but also had unanswered

questions. So, I decided to pursue baking and pastry to round out

my education.

When I’ve completed this program, I’m going to travel. I’m a “roll

with the punches” kind of person so I’m hoping to see the world

and write a cookbook centered on my travels. I see the book as a

window to the places I’ve been for those who can’t go. But truth be

told, I’d eventually like to come back and teach at the CIA.

The ImpactThe scholarships I received were a godsend. They allowed me

the time to take advantage of everything the CIA had to offer

like attending the Dooley Lecture series, going to on-campus

demonstrations, and spending time on Brooks Farm in New Paltz.

Additionally, financial aid gave me the means to pay for my baking

and pastry certificate. In short, scholarships opened up the world

for me and I am truly thankful.

Giving’s Impact

32

’79 Gary S. Walter has retired.

’80 Todd Stroher is sous chef

for Vincent Guerithault in

Phoenix, AZ. He also received his A.O.S.

degree in theology from Central Arizona

College.

’81 Peter Caddoo is brewmaster

for the New Orleans Lager &

Ale Brewing Company in New Orleans,

LA. Robert DeSantis is certified

executive chef and sales representative

for Points West Sales and Marketing in

Tempe, AZ. He is also a consultant for

Life Care Medical Center in Rosean,

MN.

’82 Philip Costner is the chief

operating officer for la Mad-

eleine in Dallas, TX. Shaun Kirby has

been promoted to senior vice president

of operations for Crestline Hotels and

Resorts in Fairfax, VA. Reed Van Den

Berghe is sous chef for Greenbrier

Sporting Club in White Sulphur Springs,

WV. Reed has three children, Saman-

tha, Owen, and Wyatt, and a brand-new

grandson, Xavi.

’84 Christopher Fritz is

foodservice manager with

Restaurant Associates at the U.S. Senate

in Washington, DC.

’85 Jeffrey Charles Decko is

the executive chef for Kellogg

Hotel and Conference Center in Wash-

ington, DC.

’87 Martin Lespier is execu-

tive chef for Compass Group

in West Grove, PA, where he has won

Account of the Year for the second time

in 10 years. He has two children, Lauren

and Lindzee.

’88 Robert A. Margolis is

chef/manager for Keystone

Senior, Inc. in Westminster, CO. Brian P.

Pouchak is general manager of

Gershon’s Deli and Catering in

Schenectady, NY.

’71 Thomas A. Scott, Jr. is

retired. Thomas now has time

to enjoy his three grandchildren.

’73 Vincent A. Colucci is execu-

tive chef for Rome Memorial

Hospital in Rome, NY.

’76 Seth Simmerman has

opened his own fine dining

restaurant, the Echo Bistro and Wine Bar

in Knoxville, TN.

’77 Patti Christian is chef/owner

of Upper Crust Crumbs Des-

sert Co. in Pilot Mountain, NC. Upper

Crust is a wholesale bakeshop approxi-

mately 35 miles from Winston-Salem.

Ben Sutton is the chef/owner of Ben’s

Catering and Events in Georgia. Ben

has two daughters, Nora and Maureen.

Maureen is a sophomore at the CIA and

has just returned from her externship at

The Hotel Hershey.

’65 Marshall L. Faye has retired

after 32 years as the executive

pastry chef for Trapp Family Lodge.

Walter H. Pulsifer has retired.

’67 Mark E. Girard retired in

2006 and started teaching part-

time at Pathfinders Regional Vocational

Technical High School District.

’69 Bernard W. Bredbenner,

Jr. works in the transporta-

tion division of Step Inc. in Williamsport,

PA. He is also the founder/organizer of

the motorcycle miracle tour that benefits

the Janet Weis Children’s Hospital at

Geisinger Medical Center in Danville, PA.

He is the 1998 recipient of the Miss Judy

Award given by the Geisinger Foundation

for outstanding community work.

’70 Ronald Alterio is team

leader/chef for Compass

Group in Wilton, CT.

You Make Us Better… one volunteer at a timeThank you to all of our alumni volunteers

who have supported the CIA by

participating in college fairs, hosting

admissions receptions, mentoring our

students, and hiring our graduates. Your

dedication makes us better.

We’d love to see you on campus to share

your expertise with our students by lecturing to a class, conducting a

demo, or recruiting at a Career Fair.

If you can’t make it back to campus, we can come to you! Host an

alumni reception or student scholarship event in your city. Whether

it’s meeting for a baseball game, a golf outing, or a trip to an

amusement park—your involvement makes us better.

Have ideas for an alumni event in your area? Please send us your

ideas to alumni@culinary.edu. We look forward to visiting you!

Patty Hamilton

Senior Alumni Relations Officer

’89 John Piliouras is executive

chef/partner of Nisi Estiatorio

in Englewood, NJ. Nisi was voted one of

the top 100 restaurants in the 2009 Zagat

Online and also received an “Excellent”

rating in The New York Times on June 26,

2009.

’90 Melinda A. Fox is vice

president of development for

the National Breast Cancer Coalition in

Washington, DC.

’92 Denise Detwiler Baxter is

culinary arts instructor at the

Mountain View High School in Stafford,

VA. In 2007, Denise was named Chef

Educator of the Year by her ACF National

Chef’s Chapter. In 2008, she was named

her chapter’s Chef of the Year. She also

earned the Certified Secondary Culinary

Educator designation from the ACF in

2010 and was named the chapter’s presi-

dent that same year.

’93 Andrea Berry-Benson is

executive chef for Aramark,

in Columbus, OH. She is married with

four children. John Jurey is store team

leader for Whole Foods Market in Santa

Barbara, CA. Anthony Leganame is

executive chef for Sodexo at Marist Col-

lege in Poughkeepsie, NY. He recently

received a New York State Employment

Recognition Award.

’95 Dawn Altomari is a licensed

social worker for Phelps Me-

morial Hospital in Westchester, NY. She

has also published two cookbooks: The

Everything Mediterranean Cookbook and The

Everything Italian Cookbook, which were

both published by Adams Media Corpo-

ration. Sean Blakeslee is executive chef

of Cu29 Wine and Bistro in Sayville, NY.

Shalom Buskila is executive chef for the

Milano Caffe in Rehovot, Isreal. He is

married with three kids, Maor, Lipz, and

Shalev.

’98 Andrew Cain is executive

chef for the Santé Restaurant

in the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn,

in Sonoma, CA. Andrew had a great

2009. In September, he married Angela

Bettinelli. In October, Andrew and his

restaurant received one Michelin star

and three out of four stars from Michael

33

The Next Great ThingBrant Worrell ’94 believes he has one of the

best jobs on earth. In his role at Illes Seasons

and Flavors, he gets to take what the company

calls “Illes Dine Around.” He and his team

travel to different countries to drill down deep

into regional cuisines and capture flavors and

seasonings unique to those areas. You might

find him dining at world-renowned elBulli,

where he’s savoring the unique flavor notes of

innovative cuisine. He might be walking down

the back roads of a Brazilian town, sampling

street food straight from a vendor’s cart. Or

he could be found strolling a coastal town in

Peru to experience what he calls the “next great

spice”—the aji panca chili. And he should know

what’s coming down the pike; he’s the director

of culinary in the Research and Development

Department at Illes in Dallas, TX.

He started his research and development career

after spending a few years as sous chef for Hilton and then a private county club. But with a baby

on the way, he simply wasn’t making enough money. He looked into the job of research chef and

found one at Simmons Foods, a business-to-business poultry company that focuses on customizing

chicken products for foodservice and retail companies. “I spent the first several months like a deer

in the headlights,” he explained. But he soon got his feet under him and went on to create flavor

profiles and develop a line of five chicken wing flavors. He also learned the fine art of public

relations, providing on-site demonstrations of how to prepare the various chicken recipes. Brant was

hooked on R&D and became a member of the Research Chefs Association. In 2002, he was one of

the first 10 chefs to receive the Association’s Certified Research Chef accreditation.

Interestingly enough, Illes Seasonings and Flavors, his current employer, supplied seasoning to

Simmons Foods. That’s how Illes knew they wanted to “steal” Brant away for their R&D department.

After approaching Simmons about it, they offered Brant the position and he headed for Dallas.

Despite what some might think, Brant doesn’t spend all his time traveling the world and sampling

regional flavors; he is often back in Texas directing bench development of flavor profiles for national

accounts. He sees his role as part problem solver, part innovator, and part scientist. There are now

five full-time food scientists working at Illes, and the small company has built a reputation as a

culinary problem solver for its customers.

Over the years, Brant has stayed in touch with many of his CIA friends. He remembers his times at

the college as some of the best in his life. And while he speaks fondly of his chefs and externship

employer, he remembers most the sense of camaraderie with his classmates. As for how the CIA has

impacted his career, he explains, “My CIA degree has done nothing but help me along the way!”

Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle. Chris

“Koz” Kozlowski has just been elected

chairman of the board of the New Hamp-

shire Lodging & Restaurant Association.

The Union Leader named his restaurant,

The Orchard Street Chop Shop, one

of the “Top 3 Restaurants in New

Hampshire.”

’00 Carolyn Bond is con-

troller for the San Diego

Private Bank in La Jolla, CA. Jason M.

Giordano is executive chef for Hotel

Griffou in New York, NY. Timothy

Hazen is executive chef for CRL Senior

Living Communities. He was recently

featured in Preserving Your Memory, a

quarterly magazine for the Fisher Center

for Alzheimer’s Research Foundation.

Charles Kirkwood married in July

2009. He is wine operations manager at

Block 7 Wine Company in Houston, TX.

Michael Kyle is the managing partner

at Bravo! Cucina Italiano in Homestead,

PA. Michael married in August 2008.

’02 Michael Anderson is chef/

owner of Bow Valley Gour-

met, a private and personal chef service

company. Keith Vixie successfully

passed the Certified Dietary Manager’s

Association exam and is now a certified

dietary manager for Las Ventanas, a life-

care facility in Las Vegas, NV.

’03 Christine (Russell)

Alderman is crew member

for Trader Joe’s in Arlington Heights,

IL. She had a baby girl in January 2009.

Brandi N. Stephens is restaurant

manager for Nordstrom in Los Angeles,

CA. She is also a cancer survivor and a

“warrior chick.”

’05 Karina Gordon and Nico-

las Massaro ’05 married at

The Hershey Hotel in May. They have

been together since they met at the CIA

in 2004. Jorge Guzman is chef de

cuisine for the Corner Table Restaurant

in Minneapolis, MN. Jorge became

engaged in July 2009. Sonya Trifilo and

Taylor Kneubuhler ’05 married in Ra-

leigh, NC. Taylor works as front of house

manager for Kildare’s Irish Pub in Chapel

Hill, NC. The Kneubuhlers are expecting

their first child in May 2010.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com34

Fred Yamashita ’53

Charles Fournier ’62

Carroll S. Heydt ’64

Cleveland A. McGee ’71

Ralph J. Wirthlin ’71

Charles Brower ’73

Walter Hessling ’74

Frida (Bericic) Koci ’74

Thelma King ’76

Gerald Andolora ’78

Michael Setzer ’81

Gregory Yucisin ’82

Robert James Fox ’94

James VanDong Hatter ’95

Margaret Votta ’97

John Francis Brown (attended ’98–’99)

Susan Swanezy ’02

Vicky Chen (attended ’09)

In Memoriam

The Spice of LifeAs you wend your way through the aisles

of the century-old West Side Market in

Cleveland, OH, you are assailed by aromas,

colors, and sounds that seduce you to try

and buy. For the Market’s approximately 100

vendors, their stalls in the massively arched,

yellow-brick building are home. And it’s at

stall E-2 where Dion Tsevdos ’94 found the

spice of life.

After graduating from the CIA, Dion took

what he called the “typical route,” working his way up from sous chef, to banquet chef, and finally to executive

chef at his own place. But his wife was keeping banker’s hours and Dion was working 24/7—not the life he

wanted. He found CIA alum Gary Thomas ’87, owner of the wholesale and retail operation called Ohio

City Pasta. Dion took a job working the retail arm of the company at the West Side Market. He also began

managing Ohio City Pasta’s Urban Herbs stall at the market. Eventually Dion bought that business from

Gary and now provides 350 herbs and spices to the wholesale and retail market.

It was another CIA alum and friend who presented Dion with an opportunity to enrich his life by helping

aspiring culinarians. Tim Michitsch ’84, who teaches at Cleveland’s Lorain County Joint Vocational High

School, tapped Dion to help him train students for the ProStart® competitions that can help them win

scholarship dollars. That affiliation has expanded to include annual CIA recruitment events that bring

together 300–400 students. Topping the bill are usually CIA Ambassadors like Fritz Sonnenschmidt and

a host of CIA alumni like Iron Chef Michael Symon ’90, owner of Cleveland’s famed Lola and Lolita

restaurants. What Dion might be proudest of is his part in recruiting a couple dozen students who have gone

on to attend the CIA.

Love MatchWhen Frank Saporito ’08 noticed that

Sarah Ann Marriott ’08 was in all of his

B.P.S. classes, it crossed his mind that he

would like to get to know her better. And

he did. Their common interests and shared

values made it a CIA love match. They

received their bachelor’s degrees in February

and 18 months later, in August 2009,

they were married on Martha’s Vineyard.

Happily, they are now both working at

jobs they love. Frank is sous chef at Pond

House Restaurant in West Hartford, CT, and

Sarah is operations specialist with Marriott

International in New England.

’07 Brittany Frick is executive

pastry chef for Red Velvet

Cupcakery in Washington, DC.

’08 Bree Brown-Rosa is a

personal chef and baker for

Baking By Bree in Bronx, NY. She got

married in May 2009. Jarrod Mar-

kowski can be found in Chongquing,

China working as executive pastry chef

for the bakery/cake shops of Couture

Cakes. It’s the only company in China

that makes fondant cakes—something new

to the Chinese people. John D. Pickett

is sous chef for Blue Pear Bistro in West

Chester, PA. He is married to Katrina

Schmidt-Pickett ’08. Lauren Welsch is

supervisor at Cameron Mitchell’s Ocean

Prime restaurant. She recently received

her B.S. in hospitality management from

Ohio University.

’09 Antonio Ibanez is chef

tournant at Fig and Olive in

New York City. Logan Ronkainen is

executive chef for Krazy Kate’s Landmark

Inn in Boiceville, NY.

Win! a FREE TickET To alumni homEcoming 2010!

Submit captions online at www.ciaalumninetwork.comor by snail mail to: The Culinary Institute of America,Alumni Relations Office, 1946 Campus Drive, Hyde Park, NY 12538

Write a clever caption to go with this picture and win free admission to this year’s

alumni homecoming on September 24–25 at the Hyde Park campus.

DEADLINE for entries: June 15, 2010.

The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

Alumni Relations Admissions Advancement CIA Web Sites Career Services Conrad N. Hilton Library Professional Development General Information 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 845-905-4275 ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1270 1-800-888-7850 845-452-9600 ciaalumninetwork.com ciagiving.org ciaprochef.com

Calling All Alumni

Join us for ALUMNI

HOMECOMING 2010

Friday and Saturday September 24–25

at the Hyde Park campus

Hope to see you in September2010

Log on to www.ciaalumninetwork.com for details about Homecoming as they become available.

HOMECOMING