Minature Pinscher

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Miniature Pinscher Care & Training: An

Owner’s Guide

Section 1: History of the Miniature Pinscher

Section 2: Miniature Pinscher Characteristics

Section 3: Selecting The Right Dog Breed For You Where To Find Your Miniature Pinscher: Breeders, Kennels, Rescue Groups

Choosing Your Miniature Pinscher Puppy From the Litter

Section 4: Introducing The New Family Member To Others

How To Introduce a Miniature Pinscher To Your Children

How To Introduce a New Dog In the House To Meet Your Miniature Pinscher

Keeping Your Miniature Pinscher Away From Fights With Other Dogs

Section 5: Caring For Your Miniature Pinscher “Puppy proofing” your home for your new Miniature Pinscher

Feeding

Grooming

Health care Supplies needed

Safety



Traveling With Your Miniature Pinscher Exercise

Section 6: Miniature Pinscher Training

What Is Your Training Style?

House Training Quick & Easy Potty Training

Obedience Training

Use Of Control Tools

Needed Training Devices

Trick Training

Dealing With Aggression

Section 7: Dog Training For Special Situations

Assertive dogs

Passive dogs

Training Purebred dogs Non-neutered dogs

Older dogs

Assistance dogs Service dogs

Rescued dogs

Specialized Training Tests

Section 8: Online Resources

Disclaimer: The written materials are strictly for informational purposes. It is not

intended as veterinary or medical advice. All health care concerns should be directed to aveterinarian and regular veterinary contacts should be maintained for your pet’s proper

health care regiment. The publisher is not liable for any materials and/or equipment you

may purchase on the basis of this written material and/or the success or failure of your pettraining program. Only the original purchaser may use this material. The e-course is

fully copyrighted and the material is not to be used by or sold to any other parties.

©2006-2008 Mill Creek Publishing

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Section 1. History of the Miniature Pinscher (Back To Index)

The Miniature Pinscher was created by breeding the German Pinscher to a smaller breed.

The Miniature Pinscher breed was first developed in Germany by cross breeding theGerman Pinscher with Terriers. As a matter of fact, the word Pinscher means “Terrier”

in the German language.

The Miniature Pinscher was used to hunt rats out of horse stables.

Section 2. Miniature Pinscher Characteristics (Back To Index)

If you love the sleek, muscled appearance of the Doberman Pinscher, but you don't want

a big dog, you may want to consider a Miniature Pinscher. These dogs are very similar inappearance to Dobermans, but are almost one hundred pounds lighter.

The Miniature Pinscher may look like a miniature Doberman, but these dogs are not

actually directly related. In fact, the Miniature Pinscher was developed long before the

Doberman. The Miniature Pinscher was created by breeding the German Pinscher to asmaller breed. The American Kennel Club classifies the Miniature Pinscher as a part of

the Toy Group, but these dogs are not cute little lapdogs. The Miniature Pinscher was



bred to be a tough, aggressive ratter. The Min Pin weighs in at 8 to 10 pounds and stands10 to 12 inches high.

Miniature Pinschers have a compact, muscular frame. Their intelligent eyes are so dark brown that they look black. The Min Pin's short coat can

be red, stag red, black and rust, or chocolate and rust.This breed's tails are docked. In addition, some peoplecrop their Miniature Pinscher's ears, but this is not

necessary. Most of these dogs develop pricked ears as

they mature.

Check out this cute video with an adorable Min Pin

puppy.

The high energy Miniature Pinscher does well in apartment settings, as long as you are

willing to go for a long walk once a day. Of course, the Min Pin also enjoys the freedom

of a fenced yard. These dogs have a tendency to roam and they will search for ways toescape, so be sure your yard has a securely fenced exercise area. If you live in an area

with busy streets, your dog's escape could prove fatal, since the Miniature Pinscher is too

small to be easily seen from a moving car.

Miniature Pinschers are intelligent and loyal dogs, and are deeply devoted to their

owners. They are energetic, spirited, and strong-willed. Most tend to do well with otherpets an animals, although some can be overly aggressive.

While Miniature Pinschers are small, most of them are a bit stubborn and hard to control.

Your puppy should attend obedience classes and you should be careful to follow up onevery command. These dogs enjoy agility training and attending competitions gives them

a chance to shine. The Min Pin was bred to work and takes vermin seriously. If a mousegets into your house, your dog will not rest until it is caught.

The Miniature Pinscher is not for everyone, but if you want a dog who is completelyloyal to you, you may want to consider this breed.

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Section 3. Selecting The Right Dog Breed For You (Back To Index)

Where to look when shopping for a Miniature Pinscher

When searching for the right Miniature Pinscher puppy, some common sources include

online ads, newspaper ads, rescue groups, and professional as well as hobby breeders.

You have to be careful about getting a dog from a newspaper ad. Although there are

some reputable breeders who advertise in the paper, finding your Miniature Pinscher in

the classifieds is not often a good idea. Most ads in the paper are placed byinexperienced breeders who naively breed their pet thinking that they can make a quick

buck. They seldom have the resources or knowledge to produce healthy and well-

adjusted puppies.

Would you take home a rescued Miniature Pinscher? Many Miniature Pinschers are

abandoned by their previous owners and in need of new and permanent homes. Most of

these dogs will make tender, loyal, and trustworthy pets. However, a few of them mayrequire special care and attention in order to help them recover from their past

experiences.

Professional and hobby breeders who place ads in magazine or put up a site online tend to

be serious about their dogs. You can find a wide variety of quality Miniature Pinschers

from breeders who either have a web site dedicated to their dogs or those who advertise

in an all-breed or specific breed magazines.

A visit to the Miniature Pinscher Kennel

Professional breeders and hobby breeders who place their ads in all-breed dog magazines

or especially in Miniature Pinscher-only magazines are very serious about their dogs.

And since most breeders are aware of the increasing popularity of online advertisements,



many of them nowadays join the information age and set up a website to display theirads.

Whether your main source for finding your perfect puppy is through online or breed-specific magazines, you can find a wide variety of quality Miniature Pinschers from a

reputable and honest breeder.

But what makes for an honest and reputable breeder? The fact is that although a breeder

may seem professional and knowledgeable, there is still no guarantee that he or she is a

good and honest breeder. Some breeders are only motivated by profit and could not care

any less about their dogs. It is up to you to use your instinct and better judgment todetermine if the breeder of your choice is honest and trustworthy.

If possible, try to visit the facilities personally so you can take a look around and makeyour own observation. Watch how the breeders treat their dogs as well as the overall

atmosphere of the place. Keep away from Miniature Pinscher breeders who treat their

dogs like livestock. Also, if the breeder does not allow visits from prospective buyers,then you are probably better off looking some place else.

Observe the other Miniature Pinscher dogs in the kennel and watch out for any scars,particularly big ones. Old scars on dogs may indicate that they have been used for

fighting, although they could also indicate accidents. But finding a lot of dogs with scars,

especially around the area of the face strongly suggests either a fighting history, or of a

very careless breeder.

Know exactly what you are looking for. Do you want a Miniature Pinscher simply as acompanion and a playmate for your kids or one that you can train to be a show dog?

Being honest with the breeder about your intentions will get you the Miniature Pinscherthat is perfect for you and your family.

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7 Miniature Pinscher Breeder warning signs to watch out for

OK, so you have decided to get a Miniature Pinscher. You like the way they look, theway they act, and how they carry themselves. It is important for you to make sure that

you are getting a purebred Miniature Pinscher that looks like a Miniature Pinscher and

acts like a Miniature Pinscher. You also want to make sure that the dog you choose will

live a healthy life. You have to be very cautious; there are lots of unsuitable MiniaturePinscher breeders out there who care more about their profit than in proper breeding.

Since you have chosen a special breed that has the bad luck of having inappropriate

breeders, you need to take your time to carefully pick the Miniature Pinscher that youdeserve.

In order to find a good Miniature Pinscher, you need to find a good breeder. The hardpart about finding a good breeder is that almost everyone who ever let two dogs of the



same breed mate consider themselves as expert dog breeders. The disheartening reality isthat Miniature Pinschers are too often bred by the wrong people for the wrong reasons.

Below are features that you should be aware of when choosing the right MiniaturePinscher breeder. Watch out for the following:

1. Breeders who treat their dogs with cruelty, disrespect, and apparent dislike.

2. Breeders who think Miniature Pinschers should be aggressive and raise them as a

fighting dog rather than a good companion dog.

3. Breeders who are geared up and ready to send their puppies off to new buyers rather

than before the puppies turn eight weeks old.

4. Breeders who sell cheap puppies. It takes a lot of funds and other resources in order

to raise healthy puppies. Cheap puppies are usually cheap because the breeder did not

take the necessary steps to breed and raise a healthy litter.

5. Breeders who have no photos, videotapes, or pedigree of both parents and of other

relatives. An honest breeder should know about the family background of their breed.

6. Breeders who are unfamiliar with the common health problems and concerns

associated with the breed.

7. Breeders who tell you that Miniature Pinschers are perfect for everyone. Miniature

Pinschers are special dogs and need special owners.

Adopting a rescued Miniature Pinscher

Miniature Pinschers are in rescue for many reasons. The most common one is simply

because their first owners did not think things through properly when they decided to get

a Miniature Pinscher. Another reason is that the dog did not get along well with thechildren or other pets in the house. Some Miniature Pinschers were rescued from illegal

dog-fighting operations and will require extra care and rehabilitation. These dogs need

special attention with experienced owners.

There are many Miniature Pinscher rescue groups available that have these pets screened

for temperament and health problems. However, just like what you would expect from a

good breeder, there are organizations that are very picky about prospective homes forthese abandoned dogs. Experienced rescue groups evaluate the needs and special

requirements of each dog in their care and help you get a dog that fits well with your

situation and lifestyle.

Because most of these dogs in rescue have already been to too many homes, you have to

choose one very carefully to make sure that your home will be the one where he can



settle in permanently. Contact your local animal shelter and ask to be notified if aMiniature Pinscher should become available.

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Choosing your Miniature Pinscher puppy from the litter

So you have chosen to add a baby Miniature Pinscher to your family. You have learned

about its history as well as its unfair controversies. You have taken your time, searched

high and low, and finally found a number of good breeders who have perfect lovablelitters for you to choose from. Now comes the dilemma; which puppy should you pick?

Both Miniature Pinscher males and females make equally good pets. Males are a littlelarger than the females. Some males mark their territory inside your house by urinating

on your walls and furniture, a behavior that can be quite difficult to stop.

When deciding which Miniature Pinscher puppy to pick out of the litter, try to choose theone with the best parents and grandparents you can find. Keep in mind that although all

Miniature Pinscher puppies look extremely cute, their faces do change as they turn into

adults. If looks are important to you, be sure that the breeder has the look that you like.You can determine how the puppies would look like as adults by looking at their parents

and grandparents.

Consider the basic features of a good Miniature Pinscher. Miniature Pinschers are very

strong and athletic dogs. The puppy of your choice should display strength, vigor, speed,

and energy. Watching how the parents act will give you a good idea of the puppy’spotential temperament. If the parents show signs of curiosity, enthusiasm, and positive

energy, their puppies will more likely develop the same traits. In addition, if the parentsand/or grandparents have been living long, healthy lives, the puppies will also have a

very good chance of enjoying a long lifespan.

Observe how each puppy behaves with the rest of the litter. Bossy Miniature Pinscher

puppies are prone to become dominant adults. On the other hand, puppies that actsubmissive are likely to grow up into insecure adults. Choose the one with a

temperament that falls somewhere in between the two extremes. The puppy that

curiously comes to greet you with excitement and follows you around is a probablechoice. If the puppy doesn’t resist to being held and stays relaxed while you lift him up

should be the perfect puppy for you.

All Miniature Pinscher puppies look adorable. You need to spend time with as manypuppies as you can so in order to see the differences in their personalities and therefore,

pick the best one for you.

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Section 4. Introducing The New Family Member To Others (Back To Index)

Dogs, like humans, show a wide range of tolerance for others. Some are immediately

friendly with every new dog, cat or lizard. Others are forever hostile to even the oppositesex of their own breed. Considering dogs are by nature territorial the diversity is odd, but

there it is.

Naturally, animal lovers like to have more than one dog around and often several breeds

or other species. Ensuring that chairs remain upright and necks unbitten can be a real

challenge. Add to the mix the neighbor's pets or random critters who wander into your

companion's territory and your furniture, not to mention your sanity, can be at real risk.

The first step is to start the process of socializing your dog as early as possible. Like

children, puppies are much more accepting of strangers. They haven't yet distinguishedbetween friend and foe and everything is a new experience to be explored rather than

feared or chased.

If you have only one dog, expose the puppy early on to other dogs and people. Get them

used to being touched, especially between the toes, in the ears and near the eyes. Apart

from impact on interaction with animals, that will make vet visits and trips to the store alot easier.

Dogs, of course, sniff everything. When they're about to interact with another, control

them until you're confident there won't be chasing or violence, then let them explore theother dog, cat or creature.

If the dog shows a tendency to leap or bite, tolerate it to the point someone is going to getinjured. It's normal for dogs to rough house, knock one another over and even lightly bite



legs and necks. Stay close and be prepared to snatch them away, if necessary. Leathergloves may be useful during the initial experiments.

If they continually bark, distract them with a treat, a toy or a sharp command. If theyrefuse to cease pulling or barking after several attempts at control, try another day. What

works will vary widely depending on the individual dog and some will simply nevertolerate others. You'll discover what's more and less effective as you observe theirinteractions over time.

It may be necessary to put the dog on it's back, then hold it down with a firm hand on the

chest. In harder cases a bark or shout in the dog's face is useful. Yes, you will look like alunatic to others, but this technique is even employed by the Monks of New Skeet. The

brothers of this upper New York State religious order are world-renown for their German

Shepherd raising practices.

Rescued or animal shelter dogs can require extra patience when socializing. These

animals have often been abused by people or injured by other dogs. Those experiencesnaturally often lead to aggression or fear. Remarkable transformations have been seen

even in these dogs, though. After repeated exposure they often learn to at least tolerate

other people and pets.

Start early, expose for short intervals leading to longer ones, repeat as needed. In every

case, be prepared to physically and mentally control the dog.

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How to introduce a Miniature Pinscher to your children

Although it is a fact that dogs can hurt babies, it is also true that they protect babies.

How you introduce your baby to your Miniature Pinscher makes a huge difference onhow well the dog will act around your baby.

When you introduce dogs and children, do it very carefully. Advise your child to begentle and offer your dog a treat. Never allow young children to sit on the dog, pull his

ears, hair, or tail. Tell them not to run from the dog, scream sharply around him, stare at

him, or hurt him. Never allow your kids to pick on your Miniature Pinscher. Here areother things that you should keep in mind before you bring a baby and a Miniature

Pinscher together:

1. Before you introduce the baby to the Miniature Pinscher, the dog should already befully trained on how to “stay,” “sit,” and “lie down” on command.

2. Make sure that the Miniature Pinscher is secured on his leash the first time that you

introduce him to the baby. You can muzzle the dog if you are still uncomfortable withthe leash. The problem with this is that you do not want him to associate muzzling with

the baby. The dog should already be familiar with the having the muzzle on beforemeeting the baby.



3. Keep the dog away from the baby during the baby’s first few days at home. Let thedog get familiar with the smell and sound of the baby. You need to be very careful

during this time because some dogs may not comprehend that you have a new small

human in the house and not a “prey animal”.4. Have the dog sit and stay before you bring the baby to the room and then reward the

dog for staying. Move the baby closer to the dog while rewarding him for his goodbehavior. Once you are secure about the dog’s comfort level, allow him to sniff the baby.But remember, you should never leave the dog and baby alone together during the baby’s

first few weeks at home.

How to introduce a new dog in the house to meet your Miniature

Pinscher

Is it wise to have more than one Miniature Pinscher in one house? Does it matter if the

other dog is a male or a female? How about a Miniature Pinscher and a dog of another

breed? The answers to these questions all depend on the following factors: Your

Miniature Pinscher, his environment, his early exposures to other pets, and yourcommitment to train your dog properly and keep the peace in your household.

You have a better chance of keeping peace in your house by getting dogs of opposite

sexes. Two male Miniature Pinschers are likely to fight with each other, so are two

female Miniature Pinschers.

Two dogs of about the same age may fight over who is going to be the leader. Having

two dogs work better if one of them is older than the other, making the older dog the

obvious leader of the pack. Senior dogs are very well respected by younger dogs, whichis the reason why puppies get along so well with their elders. In some rare cases,

problems start because a youngster may seek dominance over the older dog. When yourtwo Miniature Pinschers start fighting with each other, check to see if this “fighting” isonly common rough playing or maybe an occasional quarrel between the two which is

normal between two dogs. On the other hand, a quarrel that gets violent with one dog

that draws blood is a potential problem. If this kind of quarrel happens more than once,then you better reconsider if keeping both dogs is still a good idea.

Sometimes, having two dogs works out perfectly when only one of them is a Miniature

Pinscher. If you have an adult dog that is not used to being around other dogs, test yourMiniature Pinscher and observe how he behaves around another dog. When doing this,

make sure that both dogs are securely restrained.

The following exercises can be performed to determine the sociability of your Miniature

Pinscher around other dogs:

Place the dogs in neutral territory. Place your Miniature Pinscher in a kennel to keep him

secure and then walk the strange dog into his view. Some dogs tend to be more

aggressive when placed inside a kennel, so if your dog lets the other dog approach him



and still acts friendly, then this is a very good indication that your Miniature Pinscher willget along with other dogs.

The next exercise is to put both dogs on strong leashes and then walk them right next toeach other while letting them focus on different diversions. Give both dogs treats but do

not let them fight for the food. When you are introducing a new dog into your home, youmay need to ignore the new dog around your Miniature Pinscher. Praise your MiniaturePinscher when your new dog comes by. You need to emphasize your Miniature

Pinscher's feelings of leadership by petting her and feeding her first before you feed the

new dog. This will assure him that he is still the special one.

(Back To Index)

Keeping your Miniature Pinscher away from fights with other dogs

Even if you feel confident that your Miniature Pinscher and your other dogs are getting

along well, it is still wise to separate them when you are not around to supervise. Littlefights can and do happen, no matter how great they are getting along. Spats can occur

over possession and control of toys or one dog can irritate the other, which can lead to a

violent fight.

Unlike humans, dogs cannot choose to be polite and back off during a disagreement, so

do not give them a chance to get a fight started. All dogs and especially your MiniaturePinscher have the potential to get into a violent fight. The difference between your two

breeds is that your Miniature Pinscher was bred for many generations to win them.

Even if you are successful in maintaining peace between your Miniature Pinscher and

your other dog, it is more difficult to control aggression between your Miniature Pinscherand strange dogs, particularly if you have a male Miniature Pinscher. Although neutering

your dogs help prevent aggression, it is never a guaranteed cure.

The most effective solution is to always use a leash when walking your Miniature

Pinscher and try to avoid other dogs as much as possible. Also, when taking your maleMiniature Pinscher out for a walk, do not allow him to urinate on trees or any objects that

are sitting along your path. Doing so allow him to claim that object as his territory and is

more likely to defend it. In addition, you need to train your dog the basic commandsincluding the “come”, “stay”, and “sit” commands. And do not forget to carry some dog

treats with you. Every time your dog sees another dog, have him perform these

commands and reward him right after the exercise. Never wait for him to actaggressively to the other dog to give your commands. This will only make him think thatyou are rewarding him for his aggressive actions.

Many dog owners try to stop their dog’s aggressive behaviors by speaking to them softlyand petting them. This practice is usually not effective because it only gives the dog the

impression that what he is doing is an acceptable behavior. In addition, speaking to himin a gentle voice encourages him to be aggressive. On the other hand, you should not



scream and yell either. Doing so will give your dog the message that you are includingyourself in the fight and are also attacking the other dog. For the same reason, do not run

to the other dog or your Miniature Pinscher will think that you are starting to attack and

your dog will be more than happy to join you.

Keeping in mind about your Miniature Pinscher’s origin can help you control him andprevent aggressive behavior from ever surfacing. Remember, a confident MiniaturePinscher has no motive to start a fight and most of them get along very well with other

pets. In fact, Miniature Pinschers are among the most responsive of dogs. With proper

and positive training, you will be able to control your dog’s aggressive behavior because

there is nothing more important to him than obeying his owner’s commands.

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Section 5: Caring For Your Miniature Pinscher

How to make your home puppy-friendly for your new Miniature

Pinscher

Before you bring home your new Miniature Pinscher, you should already have thenecessary preparations made in order for your new puppy to feel safe and comfortable.

The more prepared you are before he arrives, the better your chances are of ensuring his

safety and in saving your home from destruction once your puppy gets used to it.

Since your new Miniature Pinscher puppy is naturally inquisitive, he will be fascinated

by anything and everything around your house. Without proper preparation, your cute

puppy will start chewing and playing with whatever he can sink his teeth into. Youmight need to do some home improvement tasks to make sure that your home is safe

enough for your new playful pup. Make sure that the whole family knows about the

safety efforts. Inform them about the terrible result that can happen to your puppy shouldthey become careless.

Everyplace where your Miniature Pinscher may wander must be puppy friendly. You

may want to crawl around on the ground at puppy level to see what kind of trouble awaits

him. In addition to making your home puppy-friendly for your new Miniature Pinscher,you need to be alert to the following factors:

1. One of your puppy’s favorite hobbies is chewing. If given the opportunity, he willchomp on electrical cords and lick electrical outlets. This exploration can result in deathfrom severe burns, shock, and loss of jaw and tongue tissue. Your pup can also pull

electrical appliances down by pulling the cords or pulling over heavy and unstable

objects that can fall down on him.



2. Stairs, balconies, and high decks are hazard spots. You may use temporary plasticfencing, baby gates, or even chicken wire if necessary, to keep the puppy from entering

these areas.

3. Keep your floor clean and free of anything that your puppy can easily put in his mouth.

Keep all forms of cleaners, chemicals, strings, coins, and other small objects out of hissight.

4. Invest in a good fence for your yard to prevent your puppy from roaming outside the

property. Check your yard for any sharp and broken branches within your puppy’s reach.

If you have a pool, show your dog how to find the steps where he can get out.

5. Doors can be a very dangerous area for your puppy. Everyone in your family should

be made aware of the danger of slamming the door where the puppy may be in the way.Attach stickers to your glass doors at puppy eye level to prevent him from running into it.

Finally, every door that leads to unfenced outdoor areas must be kept securely shut.

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Feeding your Miniature Pinscher

Miniature Pinschers do not consume huge quantities of

food, but they have a tendency to be a bit gluttonous. Youmay need to switch to a food that controls weight gain if

you notice your sleek Miniature Pinscher is starting to

resemble a blowfish with legs.

Check out this video with

feeding and watering tips

from an expert trainer.

A very important factor that influences your Miniature Pinscher’s health and fullpotential is the food that you give him. Puppies and very active dogs need even more

than that. You need to provide your Miniature Pinscher with a balanced meal of bothmeat and plant-based nutrients.

There are three basic types of dog food that you can provide your Miniature Pinscher:

1. Dry food is the most popular, most reasonably priced, and the healthiest form of dog

food, although it is not the most appetizing of the three types.

2. Semi-moist food is tasty and handy for traveling but contains high amount of sugar

used as a preservative and not the very best choice for a nutritional diet.

3. Canned food is the tastiest but the most expensive food compared to dry and semi-

moist food. Most Miniature Pinscher owners give their dogs a mixture of dry and canned

food and supplement the diet with treats and dog biscuits.

Give your Miniature Pinscher food with protein and fat content based on his stage of life,making any necessary adjustment for any health and weight problems. It is essential to

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put your Miniature Pinscher on a well-balanced diet in order to keep him healthy andactive. Obese dogs are susceptible to joint injuries, heart problems, and make many

preexisting problems worse. If you think that your dog is becoming overweight, you

need to give him a low fat, medium protein, and high fiber diet. Diet foods, which haveabout 15 percent fewer calories per pound, are widely available. Delicious, less fattening

home cooked diets are also available.

* Puppies need high protein and slightly higher fat level in their diets like those found in

puppy foods. The same level of nutrients goes for pregnant and nursing mothers,

* Underweight dogs, highly active dogs, and stressed dogs need a high protein diet.Giving them puppy food will supply them with this need. On the other hand, obese dogs

and dogs suffering from heart problems need to be fed a low fat diet.

* Older dogs, particularly those with kidney problems should be on an average level of

diet with high content of quality protein.

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Miniature Pinschers need to be comfortable too!

Have you thought about what kind of bed to get for your new Miniature Pinscher?

Believe it or not, a bed is one of the essential pieces equipment that you can give to yourdog. It is his place of sanctuary, where he can feel comfortable and secure. So unless

you decided to share your bed with your new pup, then it is necessary to provide him

with his own warm and relaxing bed.

Many dog owners leave their dogs wandering around the house without a bed to call hisown. It is no wonder that you often find him sleeping on the sofa or sneaking into your

bed. But even if you sometimes share your bed with your Miniature Pinscher, he stillneeds his own soft, comfortable bed.

There are several sleeping options that you can provide for your Miniature Pinscher. Hisbed can be as simple or as elaborate as you prefer. It can either be a thickly folded

blanket, a big pillow or cushion, or a small mattress. There are also fancy beds out there

that are especially designed for dogs such as a form fitting bean bag. It is also ideal forthe bed to be washable to maintain its freshness and cleanliness. The idea is to have a

place to lie on that is soft enough and warm enough for you Miniature Pinscher's comfort.

Grooming Your Miniature Pinscher

How To Groom Your Miniature Pinscher

The Miniature Pinscher has a very short and glossy shedding coat that requires very low

maintenance. Aside from regular brushing, the Miniature Pinscher should be bathed



every three or four months. The ears should be cleaned once a week and the nails shouldbe checked once every month to see if they need clipping.

Equipment needed to groom the Miniature Pinscher:

Hound GloveEar Powder (medicated)Nail Clipper (scissors type)

Scissors

Lanolin Coat Conditioner

Chamois cloth

A dog groomerdemonstrates how to give

your dog a haircut in this

video series.

1. Brush the coat thoroughly with a hound glove.2. Clean the ears by dusting the inside with medicated ear

powder.

3. Cut the nails with a scissors-type nail clipper,removing only the tips of the nails to avoid cutting the

quick.

4. Bathe and cage or towel dry.5. Scissor the whiskers on the muzzle as well as any long hair over the eyes and on the

face.

6. For a glossy coat, apply a lanolin coat conditioner by first putting a small amount on

your hands and then rubbing it onto the coat. Use a chamois cloth to rub the coat to giveit a shiny appearance.

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Eye/Ear/Nail Care

Nail trimming should be introduced to your Miniature Pinscher from the time he is a

puppy. Start by handling the feet and nails daily and then begin by gently and carefullycutting the tips of the nails every week, taking care not to cut the nerve endings. Give

your dog a treat after each cutting session.

More than just brushing his coat, your Miniature Pinscher needs a regular bath. Startyour bath training while he is still a puppy. Bring some treats into the tub to make

bathing more enjoyable.

When cleaning the ears, avoid using a cotton swab

because they can irritate the skin and pack debris into the

ear canal. Do not use powder in the ear which can cake,or hydrogen peroxide which leaves the ear moist. If you

see a build-up of debris, clean it out by using an ear

cleaning product that is especially made for that purpose.

These videos show howclean your dog's ears and

brush your dog's teeth.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-grooming-basics-haircut.htm


http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-health-care-ears-video.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-health-care-dental-video.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-health-care-dental-video.htm

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Miniature Pinschers normally have healthy eyes. However, just like all dogs, they can suffer from eye problems that

can rob them of their vision if left ignored. Examine your

dog’s eyes once in a while to check for any signs of abnormalities or discharge.

This video demonstrates

how to trim your dog’s

nails.

Brush your Miniature Pinscher’s teeth once or twice per week using a child or dogtoothbrush and dog toothpaste. If it is hard for you to brush his teeth, your vet can

provide a cleansing solution that helps kill plaque-forming bacteria.

Taking care of the older Miniature Pinscher

While your Miniature Pinscher may be healthy and active for a long time, one day youwill look at him and be surprised to discover that his face has silvered and his gait has

stiffened. He tends to sleep longer and more soundly now than he did when he was

younger. You also notice that he is slower than he used to be.

Keep in mind that your Miniature Pinscher has an average life expectancy of up to 15

years, though many of them have reached even older ages. Your older Miniature

Pinscher still needs an active lifestyle in order for him to stay healthy. He can enjoy afull and vibrant life as he gets older, as long as you know what extra measures to take.

Keep him active without putting too much stress on his joints. Walking with him is anexcellent exercise, but running may be a bit too much. Swimming is also a great low-

impact exercise as long as you keep him supervised and he does not get too cold.

Because he is engaging in less physical activity and has a lower metabolic rate, he willrequire fewer calories than he used to.

(Back To Index)

Supplies Needed

The best leash for your Miniature Pinscher

Because of your dog’s strength and ability, he would need a strong and sturdy leash to

keep him under control. There are many types of leashes that are strong enough to holdyour canine gladiator. You can either get him a sturdy braided leash, a cotton canvas

leash, a nylon leash, or a leather leash. All dogs are recommended to have a six-foot

leash. A four-foot leash is also ideal when walking your dog in tight places. However,whatever type of leash you decide to get, do not get one that is made of chain.

Many dog owners believe that a chain leash is the only leash that is tough enough to holdtheir strong dogs. A chain leash is not at all a good choice to use on a strong dog,

especially on a Miniature Pinscher. Although the chain part is strong, the part where thechain is attached to the handle is usually just a weak rivet, making the leash weak.

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http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-puppy-trim-nails.htm



Furthermore, it is hard to get a good grip on the chain part of the leash or wrap it aroundyour hand because it would hurt your skin if pinched.

Retractable leashes are very popular and effective, but they should be used with greatcare. A retractable leash is also not a good idea to use around other people or dogs.

Using a retractable leash on a crowded area can create a very bad tangle. It is also notwise to use a retractable leash near a street; your Miniature Pinscher is a veryadventurous dog and is inclined to hastily run out on the road, catching you off guard,

and delaying you from pulling the brakes on time.

Do not forget too, that your Miniature Pinscher is a very powerful dog that can build upan incredible amount of momentum if he runs at full speed to the end of the leash. With

most dogs, such a charge would cause them to be snapped suddenly back. But a

Miniature Pinscher can easily knock the leash from your hand and snap the line.Furthermore, if you happen to drop a retractable leash, they tend to retract toward your

dog, which causes him to think that he is being chased. He will then tend to panic and

run very fast in an attempt to get away.

Toys for your Miniature Pinscher

Toys provide two important roles for your Miniature

Pinscher puppy. The first role is to help stimulate your

dog both physically and mentally. The second is toprevent him from tearing down your home. Miniature

Pinschers, or any dog for that matter, are less likely to

destroy items in your house if given their own toys that they can play with.

This video shows how tochoose the best toys foryour dog.

Miniature Pinschers love playing with balls, especially big, colorful bouncing balls.They also enjoy a large and partially deflated ball. Hard rubber balls are good for tough-

playing puppies. Avoid using small balls such as jack balls or golf balls because dogstend to inhale or swallow them. Soft rubber balls are also not recommended because they

can easily be chewed to small pieces and then swallowed.

Miniature Pinschers also enjoy fleece toys, although some dogs tend to be too rough with

them and rip them into shreds. Keep in mind that fleece toys are not chew toys and your

dog should not be allowed to play with them while you are not around to supervise, oryour Miniature Pinscher might chew it up and swallow the material.

Rubber tug toys are also among the favorites of the Miniature Pinscher, although youmay need to have constant supervision when your Miniature Pinscher is playing withthem, especially around kids. This kind of play may promote physical competitiveness

that may not be appropriate for your Miniature Pinscher. Use this toy sporadically and

combine it with more moderate and gentler activities.

Squeaky toys that are made of plastics are not a good choice for your Miniature Pinscher.These kinds of toys can be easily chewed and swallowed or the “squeaker” can be lodged

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/choose-dog-toys.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/choose-dog-toys.htm



and also swallowed. Never leave your dog unattended with a squeaky toy. Similar tofleece toys, squeaky toys are not chew toys and should only be used when you are

playing with your dog.

Another type of toy that is your Miniature Pinscher can enjoy is a pole lure. It is

basically a stick that is about six feet long with a string of the same length tied to the endand a toy tied to the end of the string. The goal of playing this toy is for you to runaround while dragging the toy and trying to keep your dog from catching it. Avoid

letting your dog get hurt by jumping too erratically after the toy.

If a pole lure is not available, your dog will be just as happy settling for a good old-fashioned stick. Just make sure that the ends are not sharp and that it is long enough for

him to be able to jab one end to the ground while holding the other end in its mouth.

(Back To Index)

Safety

Keeping your Miniature Pinscher fenced in

Miniature Pinschers are very energetic and playful dogs. The perfect playground for

them would be in an area where they can play for hours and hours without running into

any trouble. A big back yard would be a perfect place for them. It is a place where theycan be left unattended and also get plenty of exercise at the same time.

If your Miniature Pinscher is going to be spending a good deal of his time in the yard,you need provide him with warm shelter during the winter and cool shade in the summer.

More importantly, you will need to invest in a secure and sturdy fence. A secure anddependable fenced yard is often considered the best lifesaver for a Miniature Pinscher.

Having an unfenced yard where your Miniature Pinscher is able to run free is the most

reckless thing you can do. Roaming around outside your property can cause them to bestolen, taken to the pound, or worse, hit by a car. Private fences such as stockade fences

without cracks for him to peek through are the best choice. A fenced in yarded area will

prevent your dog from being tempted to escape.

Electric Fences

Electronic fences are a control device. That said, electronic fences can be a blessing or acurse - not only for the dog but for the human as well. An 'electronic fence' is a set of

devices, usually underground wire and transmitters, that deliver a noise, shock or

unpleasant spray via a collar to a dog approaching the boundary. The wire is buried a footor so under the ground along a perimeter of 500-1000 feet and as the dog approaches it a

signal is sent to the collar, activating the deterrent.



Electronic fences are expensive, but some Home Owners Association rules or cityordinances forbid regular fences leaving few options. Useful for those who want to avoid

or can't erect a regular front yard fence, it becomes even more desirable for those with no

back yard fence at all.

The potential downsides, though, are many.

Sometimes viewed as a substitute for needed training, dogs require careful instruction in

dealing correctly with an e-fence. Shocks or disturbing noises aren't automatically and

instantaneously interpreted correctly by dogs. They have to be taught to associate the

shock or noise with the limit of allowed movement.

Systems can be shorted, by lightning strikes (unusual) or by careless digging at the

perimeter (less unusual). Flags mark the boundary after initial installation, but they'reintended to be removed after the dog has been trained. Sometimes, though, they're left in

place and get knocked down or dragged away by lawnmowers, kids and other causes.

Once down their tips can point up and have the potential to produce a harmful puncture.

Particularly assertive or unintelligent dogs chasing 'prey' will sometimes barrel past the

barrier, oblivious to the temporary shock. Being on the wrong side of the fencediscourages voluntary returns home.

And, of course, many reasonably believe that electric shocks are a cruel or at best

counter-productive way to solicit desired behavior from a friend and companion.

But, everything in life has risks that need to be weighed. Dogs confined solely indoorsexcept when leashed don't experience needed opportunities to run. In some locales, dog

parks or other areas that make possible free running can be hard to find or far away. Andrunning is a deep-seated need of almost all dog's natures. Frustrate that need and youproduce a maladjusted dog.

Accidents can occur from punctures from chain link fences, and scrapes from woodenfence tops. Even when the initial wound is minor, dogs have a tendency to worsen them

by biting and scratching, producing hot spots. That means a trip to the vet. Sometimes an

electronic fence is actually safer in the end.

No 'one-size-fits-all' recommendation is likely to be satisfactory given the wide variety of

living circumstances, breeds and individual dogs and training regimes. The best that can

be said is to consider all the facts, not least of which are the physical and psychologicalhealth needs of the dog. Then make an informed choice.

Just be prepared to disable the fence if it proves to do more harm than good.

(Back To Index)



5 Tips in case your Miniature Pinscher is lost

Miniature Pinschers are very loyal and trustworthy dogs that usually stick close to theirowners. But even the most loyal of dogs can end up missing. With Miniature Pinschers,

especially bored Miniature Pinschers, unexpected events happen and you may all of a

sudden find that you and your Miniature Pinscher are separated.

Too many dog owners take too long to realize that their dog is really not coming back on

their own. You need to search for your dog as soon as you recognize that he is missing.

These dog owners waste precious time in which they probably could have found their doghad they looked for them right away.

Once you realize that your Miniature Pinscher is lost, be sure to adhere to the following 5tips:

1. Start looking at the very worst place you can think of where your dog might be,

usually the nearest road.2. Hand out fliers with his picture in your neighborhood, parking lots, poles, vet clinics,

police departments, and the animal shelter.

3. Put up an ad in the local newspaper.4. Post large posters with his picture or a picture of a similar looking Miniature Pinscher.

5. If your Miniature Pinscher has been gone overnight, consider camping out where you

last saw him. When you have to leave the spot, leave his blanket, his cage, or some of your personal items in case your dog comes back while you are gone.

Keeping your Miniature Pinscher safe while traveling

Most dogs, including your Miniature Pinscher, get athrill of being inside the car and going for a ride. Theylove the feel of the wind against their face and the

excitement of the cars passing by as they hang their

heads out of the window to enjoy the view.

This video series showshow to have safe travel

with your dog

But while riding in a car is pure bliss for your Miniature Pinscher, accidents can and do

happen. You have a responsibility as their owners to take precautions to ensure their

safety and comfort while inside the car.

Also, having your Miniature Pinscher ride in the back of a pick-up truck is very

irresponsible. No matter how well balanced your dog may appear to be, she cannot stayin the pick-up bed if you happen to slam on your brakes, suddenly swerve into another

direction, or get into an accident. He will surely be thrown from the truck and is very

likely to be killed.

Tying your dog in place by his collar is also an unsafe move – it is just a way for him to

get a broken neck. A doggy seatbelt is a very good investment that you can provide foryour dog. It is widely available online and in pet stores.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/travel-with-your-dog-first-aid-kit.htm






Lastly, a sturdy cage is also effective in keeping your Miniature Pinscher safe inside the

car. Make sure that it is securely fastened to the car for both his and your safety.

(Back To Index)

Proper exercise tips for your Miniature Pinscher

Miniature Pinschers are active an energetic dogs that require lots of exercise. They are

most happy when they are running, jumping, and interacting with their human friends. Itis important to encourage periods of regular exercise to ensure that your Miniature

Pinscher is healthy.

Miniature Pinschers tend to get cold easily, which does not allow them to spend a great

deal of time outdoors. Keeping this in mind, a limited amount of time should be spend

exercising in cold weather climate.

You need to take certain precautions to make sure that your Miniature Pinscher’s exercise

is both fun and safe. You should always have him wear a leash whenever you take him

outside. Regardless of how smart or trustworthy he is, he should never be allowed to gooff-leash unless he is in your yard and surrounded by a tall and sturdy fence. When

excited, even the smartest and the most trustworthy of dogs will sometimes forget their

training for just a moment, which is all it takes to scare other people, run in front of traffic, or run away altogether.

You should never let your Miniature Pinscher run free in public places. No matter howgentle and friendly he is, he could be perceived as a threat or a nuisance, especially for

those who have a prejudiced opinion against his breed. Furthermore, many placesprohibit dogs, especially dogs that are off their leash. And if your Miniature Pinscher is

not wearing a leash and an accident happens that involves another human, you aremorally and legally responsible for it. Having the potential of endangering your dog’s

life and possibly endangering another human being is not worth letting your dog run

around without a leash.

There are great ways of giving your Miniature Pinscher his exercise, while keeping him

on a leash. Taking him for a walk is an excellent low-impact exercise for both you andyour dog. You can start with a short walk and then gradually work your way up to longer

distances. An adult Miniature Pinscher should get a minimum of half a mile of daily

walking, and of course more is always better.

Miniature Pinscher puppies should never be walked long distances because too much

walking can damage their developing bones. Older dogs and obese dogs should not be

forced to walk farther than they can comfortably handle. Jogging is another fun exerciseyou can do with your dog. However, you have to work up to longer distances gradually.



As a safety measure, avoid jogging with your dog during hot weather. MiniaturePinschers are not built to be marathon runners; they cannot cool themselves as well as

humans can and might suffer from heatstroke. Also avoid jogging your dog on hard

surfaces, which are bad for their joints. Always check the footpads for abrasions, tearing,gravel, or blistering from hot concrete. During winter, check in between the pads for

balls of ice.

(Back To Index)



Section 6. Miniature Pinscher Training

What Is Your Training Style?

Contrary to popular belief, there are not as many training styles as there are trainers.Despite individual differences, people handling dogs fall into clearly recognizable

categories. And no matter your individual style or that of your dog, there remain certain

truisms.

The Too-Easily Frustrated

No activity apart from human childrearing requires as much patience as developing

cooperative behavior in a dog. And most individuals don't spontaneously possess thatmuch. So, along with training the dog, self-training is usually necessary.

Check out this video

that shows how to getyour dog to recognize

his/her name.

Be prepared to invest the time daily, at least half an hour

but preferably an hour, to developing the desired

behavior in your companion. And when you feel you're atyour limit of patience, whether at 10 minutes or an hour,

end the session.

Strive to lengthen that 'time to boiling point' a little each day. Remind yourself you are

dealing with a dog. Even the most easily trained breeds or individual dogs understand at

roughly the level of an average two-year old human. Of course, there are those rareexceptions.

The Too-Ready To Surrender

Dogs by nature are pack animals that develop in a hierarchical social structure. There are

alphas (leaders) and omegas (passive, sometimes fearful) and those in the middle. For

any training program to succeed it's essential that the human (male or female) be the

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http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-tips-labrador-name.htm



alpha male of the pack. You are training the dog, not the reverse. Though it canunderstandably feel like the latter, sometimes!

Be firm, but not harsh. Have the patience not only to avoid the anger prompted byfrustration at failure to obey, but to persist. Don't surrender your authority. Training a dog

to obey isn't for the purpose of ego-gratification or feeling superior. The benefits areincreased safety for your dog, your children and neighbors, and a well-adjustedcompanion.

This won't always be easy - some dogs are natural alphas. But even in purely wild packs

that role can and does change among individuals, when the more assertive individualinsists on taking it. Be consistent, don't give up, and your dog will follow your

instructions.

The Unreasonable

Even the best-trained dogs will not always do what you want when you want. Expecting adog to too-quickly understand a new command or to unfailingly remember a previously

learned one is a recipe for frustration. Dogs' memories work very differently from

humans, even two-year-old humans. Take the time to learn your individual dog's capacityand limitations.

Some breeds are inherently more easily trained, and individuals vary. Some are more

naturally energetic (terriers, retrievers, dalmatians) and some more low-key (bassethounds, collies). Age obviously makes a difference. Ten-week old puppies will invariably

display less attention than a three-year old dog.

Work with your dog's nature, not against it. Harsh tones at the least provocation, strongphysical punishment for less-than-instant obedience, and other tactics are self-defeating.The goal is to build trust so the alpha (you) will be obeyed by preference, not fear.

Training styles differ, but some traditional techniques have proven their worth.

Training styles are sometimes divided into those that use both positive and negative

reinforcement, or rewards and punishment and those that rely solely on rewards. Usingthe word 'punishment' naturally turns off many who want to treat their companion with

care. Substitute the word with 'discouragements' and you have the more accurate sense.

Rewards run the gamut from praise - which should be lavish and frequent when the dogexhibits a desired behavior - to petting and belly rubs or back scratches, to treats. All

these are useful for rewarding learned behavior.

But when using treats, don't go overboard. High in calories and packed with flavor, dogs

will often eat as many treats as are offered. Dogs prone to weight gain can have too

many, and too many treats can produce fussy eaters when regular food is served. Thegoal is to eventually elicit the behavior solely from verbal commands and hand signals.



Leash and collar training are essential, at least for a time, for almost every breed and

individual. Like young humans, dogs have a natural desire to do what they want when

they wish. Self-restraint doesn't develop spontaneously.

When training a 'sit', a short and gentle pull on the leash can encourage slow-learners orthe reluctant to comply. Pull back, not up. But not hard, you don't want to bruise a throat.When training to exit - not jet - the house a restraint is imperative, especially if something

interesting (like a rabbit or cat) just zoomed by.

Discouraging unwanted behavior also involves a large variety of techniques, somerequiring considerable creativity. Stopping plant chewing, for example, can often be

accomplished with a little cayenne pepper paste applied to the leaves. Harmless to most

plants, be sure to check with your gardening expert before applying.

But the same technique can't be used for, say, shoe or furniture chewing. Most dogs aren't

leashed inside the house, so that tool isn't available either. Creativity and experimentationis called for. Sometimes it's necessary to substitute with rawhide bones, cotton chew

balls, ropes and other more esoteric objects.

Wrapping an old cotton-shirt around a 'peanut butter bone' - a pigskin or rawhide toy

suffused with peanut butter odor - has rescued me more than once. But those who keep

laundry within dog's reach won't want to encourage chewing on t-shirts.

Common sense will help individuals avoid bad training techniques.

If you were slapped with a newspaper when you vomited on the rug, would you regard

that as an appropriate response? Dogs are not humans, but they are aware and have somereasoning capacity. Physical punishment or loud, harsh words for unavoidable accidentsinjures trust and creates fearful dogs. Fear is counter-productive, except in extreme

emergencies, where the dog or a person is in danger.

Dogs can be trained to do amazing things. One well-known woman has a dance routine

with her companion that goes on for several minutes. Few would have said it was

possible before she spent the years of attention needed to create that range of behaviors.

Find a style that generates trust and attention, that leads a dog to want to cooperate, and

you've reached an important goal: leading your willing 'pack'.

(Back To Index)

House training your Miniature Pinscher puppy

To begin the house training process with your Miniature Pinscher puppy, you need to

first determine a suitable place outside your house where he can relieve himself. Once



you have found that place, give your puppy a little tour around to let him get acquaintedwith the new area.

The next step is to restrict his freedom inside the house.Your Miniature Pinscher puppy is less inclined to relieve

himself near his sleeping quarters. By restricting him tocertain areas in your house, he will be more likely to holdhimself. However, do not make him wait too long. Even if your Miniature Pinscher

puppy is physically strong, he still has very weak control over his bladder and bowel

movements.

Check out this video on

potty training your puppy.

If you do not find the time to take him outside often enough, and whenever he needs to

go, then you leave him with no other choice but to relieve himself on your carpet. Once

you notice that he needs to use the bathroom, take him outside immediately and stay withhim until he has finished relieving himself. As soon as he is finished doing his deed,

remember to reward him with praise and plenty of treats to let him know how pleased

you are.

Do not expect more from your Miniature Pinscher puppy than he is physically able to do.

A good rule of thumb to keep in mind is that a puppy can hold his bowels for as manyhours as his age in months. For example, a three-month old puppy can hold it in for

about three hours.

There is however, a limit to this rule. It is sensible not to expect your twelve-month oldpuppy to hold his bladder or bowel movements for twelve hours. If he is forced to stay

inside the house for longer than you can reasonably expect him to hold it in, you arecausing an accident to happen. At the same time, you are teaching your puppy to go in

the wrong place. Installing a doggy door is a very effective way to house train yourMiniature Pinscher puppy. Once he gets the idea and becomes familiar with where heneeds to go, he will usually let himself out to do his deed while you are gone.

When he relieves himself inside the house, he labels that area as his bathroom and willlikely to go there again. If your Miniature Pinscher puppy does have an accident in your

house, clean and deodorize the area thoroughly and then block his access to that area. If

you catch him in the act, say “no” in a firm voice and rush him outside. Punishing himfor relieving inside your house will not help him learn any faster and in fact can hinder

progress.

(Back To Index)

5 Reasons why your Miniature Pinscher may have “an accident” inside

the house

If your adult Miniature Pinscher unexpectedly soils your

house, the reason could be some kind of physical or

emotional problem. Keep an eye out on your dog to see

In these videos, A trainer

explains how to recognize

when your puppy needs to

pee and poop.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-puppy-housebreaking.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/housebreaking-dogs-video-how-to-pee.htm

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if there is any change in his physical appearance and/or his behavior. A physicalexamination is often necessary when a formerly housebroken dog suddenly begins to soil

the house. When accidents happen, consider the following possibilities:

1. Older dogs simply do not have the bladder control that

they once had when they were younger. The mosteffective solution for this is installing a doggy door.2. It is quite common for older spayed females to

dribble. When this occurs, ask your vet about drug

therapies.

3. Submissive dogs, particularly young females, may urinate because of excitement upongreeting their owner. Punishment in this case only makes the situation worse. To

eliminate the problem, keep greetings calm so as not to overly excite your dog.

Submissive urination usually stops as your dog gets older and gains more confidence.4. If you notice several small urine spots, especially if they are dark or bloody, this could

indicate a bladder infection. This type of problem causes the dog to urinate often.

5. Accidents can happen due to bouts of diarrhea. If this is the case, restrict the dog’saccess inside the house. Clean and deodorize the area thoroughly and go back to house

training 101.

Benefits of using a crate with your Miniature Pinscher

A dog crate is a useful and popular piece of trainingequipment that you can use for your Miniature Pinscher.

You can use it either as a dog bed or a training tool.

Although some dog owners, especially novice dogowners, think that the idea of putting their dog in a crate

is cruel and ruthless, using a crate is in fact a great way to provide security for yourMiniature Pinscher puppy, especially during his first few days in your new home.

Placing your puppy inside a crate in an open area of your house allows him to investigatehis new environment without having to run into potential danger.

How to handle catching

her in the act and dealingwith accidents you didn't

see

These videos demonstrate

how to use crate training

with your puppy.

Think of the crate as the dog equivalent of a baby’s crib. It is a great place for him totake naps and breaks. It is also an ideal place for you to leave your Miniature Pinscher

puppy without having to worry about him getting hurt. Never think of a crate as a place

for punishment or a storage box for your puppy when you are done playing with him. Heshould be able to associate the crate as a place of comfort and security, not as any form of

negativity.

If you are thinking about getting a crate to leave your puppy in everyday for a long periodof time, or if you are thinking about putting him in a crate while you are at work, then

you might as well think twice about getting a dog. Locking an intelligent and active

creature in a crate for a long period of time, especially without any means for him torelieve himself, is a very cruel practice. In addition, confining your puppy, particularly

an active and sociable Miniature Pinscher puppy, to a crate can lead to serious behavioralproblems.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/housebreaking-dogs-catching-accidents.htm


http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/housebreaking-dogs-not-watching-video.htm


http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/housebreaking-dogs-crate-training-video.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/housebreaking-dogs-crate-training-video.htm







When using a crate for your puppy, place it in an area where he will not feel secluded

from the rest of the family. Placing him inside the crate on a soft sheet when he starts to

fall asleep is a great way for him to associate the place as his sleeping quarters. Puttinghis favorite toy or a chew bone inside will make him feel more comfortable and “at-

home” as well.

Most crates come in either the wire form or one of several plastic varieties. Wire crates,

particularly the suitcase models, provide a better view and ventilation for your dog. Wire

crates are easy to fold up and pack away for transportation or storage. One known

drawback of choosing a wire crate is that they can be drafty and do not offer the comfortand coziness that plastic crates provide.

Whatever type of crate you decide to get for your Miniature Pinscher, make sure that it islarge enough for him to stand up in but not too big for him to walk around in, or he will

be inclined to use it as a bathroom.

(Back To Index)

Obedience Training

Pros and Cons of Control Tools

Sometimes the distinction between training and control is too easily lost. Usingcommands and hand gestures, with leashes or treats, to solicit desired behavior is

training. Using choke or 'no-bark' collars, electronic fences and similar devices is for

control.

Control isn't necessarily a bad thing. Dogs naturally have

and seek a social hierarchy in which one is the alpha

(leader) and in any human-dog pair the human has to takethat role. The alternative is property destruction, unsafe

conditions for dogs and humans, human frustration and a

maladjusted dog.

These videos demonstrate

how to handle puppy

biting and chewing.

Choke collars were invented to assist in gaining control. Dogs, like humans, are

individuals. Some are naturally more assertive or slower to learn. For ones that don'trespond to a normal leather or nylon collar, a metal choke collar can provide extra

discouragement from pulling and leaping.

The potential downside is that, used improperly - all too easy to do - they can be counter-productive and even dangerous. Choke collars fit only one way and when fitted should

allow from one to three fingers gap between the neck and the collar. Three for larger

dogs, one for smaller. Generally a collar two inches longer than the neck circumferencewill do.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-puppy-biting.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-puppy-chewing.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-puppy-chewing.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-puppy-biting.htm



Used improperly, though, choke collars can pinch the skin - producing hot spots that

scratching will make worse. They can also accidentally compress the trachea. An

instantaneous pull-and-release isn't harmful, though by design produces discomfort, butfor dogs that tend to pull against the leash this movement is difficult to do. Generally not

recommended, especially for smaller dogs.

Prong collars are less dangerous than they appear, but - in this trainer's view - have

almost no positive characteristics. The only good aspect of the design is their limited

diameter - they can only close down so far. However, an animal with such a strong

tendency to pull that prongs look attractive needs more than a quick fix consisting of choking and poking. That animal needs committed attention and behavior modification

training.

Halter collars, which wrap around the neck and the muzzle, but don't prevent panting or

impair drinking, can give extra control. The downside is, since they don't restrict biting or

grasping, half their potential value is gone. An ordinary leash and collar, or even a chesthalter might be preferable.

'No-bark' collars can sometimes help with those animals that persist in barking long afterthe initial impetus is gone. Barking is a natural response to potential threats and is also

used to attract attention when one becomes separated from the pack. But, for reasons not

well understood, some individuals continue barking for long periods or at the slightest

provocation.

Electronic collars that discourage barking come in two types: noise and shock. Noisecollars produce a short, unpleasant sound that distracts and tends to discourage continued

barking.

Shock collars generate a short but painful electric shock that can be repeated and lengthy

during prolonged or persistent barking. Objective tests of their effectiveness show varied

results, though. As with prong collars, any dog needing one would benefit more fromcareful, professional help.

Sometimes quick fixes are tempting and useful... until they become substitutes for morebeneficial (both to trainer and dog) long-term training. Taking the time to learn to get

your dog's attention and compliance without excessive reliance on control devices is

preferred. The results are saner trainers and happier dogs.

(Back To Index)

Needed Training Devices

The creativity of trainers and those who supply them with additional tools is never-

ending. To the new or casual trainer there appears a dizzying array of devices. Thoughmany are useful, they shouldn't be viewed as substitutes for training knowledge.



Before using any of the tools discussed below, be sure your dog is in good health. Even

the gentlest of collars or training regimes can do harm if the dog has a skin sore or

twisted dew claw.

Clickers

An excellent attention-getting device, the clicker is a palm-sized, hand-held plastic and

metal unit, which emits a loud 'click-clack' noise when pressed and released. It can save a

lot of wear on the trainers voice and is distinctive and readily audible, even against

common background noise.

The trainer can use a clicker to draw the attention of a distracted dog. It's more commonly

used, though, as a reward or 'begin' sound when the animal exhibits desired behavior or tostart a behavior.

Leashes and Collars

The variety of leashes available is astounding, running

the gamut from two-foot control leashes, usually of nylonor leather, to the 30-foot extendable-retractable nylon

cord type.

For near work, such as training 'sit', 'stay' (for example,'don't run after the cat' or 'don't go out the door before me') the two to four foot leash is an

excellent tool. The extendable leash is useful only by trainers who want to obey their dog.The human (whether male or female) should always be the 'alpha male' of the pack and

the alpha always leads.

Video demonstrates "leash

dragging" technique

useful in house training.

Collars come in a variety of buckle, snap, nylon, and leather combinations. Provided the

snaps and nylon are good quality they can be fully strong enough for even large dogs.

They should be adjusted carefully, though, so they don't slip off easily when the dogmoves a head toward the ground and away to escape.

This trainer is adamantly opposed to spike collars - which can easily damage a smallerdog and tend to engender fear even in larger ones. Similarly, choke collars are

discouraged. Dogs have very strong neck muscles, but a sharp tug on the front of the

throat can bruise or even collapse a trachea. Also, too often choke collars are put on

backwards (an easy mistake to make), which makes them counter-productive anddangerous.

Vests

Similar to leashes, chest halter leashes and even full vests can help to strengthen the

trainers advantage while avoiding excessive pressure on the dog's throat.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/housebreaking-dogs-dragging-leash.htm






The potential downside is that the animal experiences no discomfort from pulling, so thislimits training completely to positive re-enforcement. Originally designed to be used with

seeing-eye and other aid dogs, the chest-halter can encourage pulling - the opposite of the

usual goal.

Nevertheless, for those who need extra control over a strong dog or when regular collarsand leashes won't serve they're valuable.

Muzzles

For short-term barking and biting control muzzles may sometimes be helpful or evennecessary. The downside to using one is the dog never learns through other means to

suppress barking. The muzzle becomes a substitute for the more difficult, long-term

solution of obeying 'no-bark' commands.

There are dozens of other dog-related items: no-bark collars, electric fences, chemical

sprays, head collars, etc. But these are as much control devices as training tools.

And, of course, there are the training tools that remain perpetual and highly effective

favorites: love and respect. Treat your dog as you would a loving companion and it willbe much easier to produce desired behavior.

(Back To Index)

6 Miniature Pinscher training tips

Since dog training techniques of today are easier and more effective than ever, there is no

reason why your Miniature Pinscher cannot be the friendliest and the most intelligent dogon the block.

1. Remember that all dogs live in the present moment.

Every time you reward or punish your Miniature

Pinscher, he can only assume that it is for his behavior atthe time of the reward or punishment. For example, if

you happen to find a mess that he did a few hours ago, do

not drag him to it from his nap and then start scolding him. He will only think that he isbeing scolded because of taking a nap.

How to praise your puppy

for successful

housetraining.

2. You have to be consistent with your rules. If he was not allowed to sleep in your bedlast night, then he should not be allowed to sleep in it tonight or any other night for thatmatter, regardless of how much he begs. By giving in to his begging, he will only learn

that begging sometimes pays off. This will then create a behavior pattern that is difficult

to change.

3. Your Miniature Pinscher will repeat actions that bring him rewards, whether therewards are intentional or otherwise. Letting him out of the cage to make him stop

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/housebreaking-dogs-praise.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/housebreaking-dogs-praise.htm



whining may temporarily work. However, in the long run you will end up with aMiniature Pinscher who continuously whines whenever he is placed in a cage. Be sure to

only reward behaviors that you want to see repeated.

4. Keep in mind that your Miniature Pinscher is very eager to please you. All you have

to do is to show him the way. Forcing your dog can distract and even intimidate him,thus slowing down his learning process.

5. It is not necessary to repeat a command over and over or to yell louder and louder.

Doing so will not make your dog understand what you are trying to get across. Your

Miniature Pinscher is not deaf, and if he behaves like he is, you just need to steer himtoward the right direction. This will probably mean taking a step back in your training.

6. Above all, be patient. Although things may not go as smoothly as you hoped it wouldbe, it is still possible to train your dog. You just need to be realistic, firm but gentle,

consistent, and always maintain a good sense of humor with your pet.

(Back To Index)

Teaching your Miniature Pinscher to “come”

If there is only one command that you can teach your

Miniature Pinscher that command should be to “come” toyou when he is called. Aside from being a neat trick,

being called on command can actually save your dog’s

life. You can never be sure that he will not bolt throughthe door or escape from his collar. For this reason, getting him to come back to you is

very important and should be the first training lesson that he gets.

Watch this video

showing a trainer teachinga dog to come when

called.

If you think about it, your Miniature Pinscher already knows how to come. Heautomatically comes every time he sees you holding the food bowl, his favorite toy, or

his leash. You may have even used the word “come” to get his attention, which gives

you a good head start. The trick is to have him respond to “come” all the time with thesame excitement that he has during mealtime.

You should always associate the command “come” with good things. Think for amoment what excites your dog that makes him run towards you. For most Miniature

Pinscher puppies, playing chase will definitely do it. And of course, no Miniature

Pinscher will say no to their special treat. Using the two examples gives you theadvantage when teaching your Miniature Pinscher the command “come.”

Miniature Pinschers are very smart dogs that respond well to proper training. And

although the best time to start training your Miniature Pinscher is while he is still apuppy, it is never too early or too late. Have someone to help you with the exercise. You

will need and enclosed area. A hallway is perfect for a young puppy. Ask your helper togently restrain the puppy. At the same time, slowly back away while you entice the dog.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-tips-labrador-come.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-tips-labrador-come.htm



Make him come to you by offering his favorite treat or his favorite toy. Do whatever youcan to get the dog to focus on you, while making him struggle to get away from your

helper in order to get to you.

At this point, you should only call him by his name, followed by “come.” Do this with

great enthusiasm while turning around and slowly moving away. Once your helperreleases the dog, let him catch up to you. Play with him for a while and then reward himby giving a special treat. Perform this exercise several times a day. Gradually increase

the distance that he has to travel to get to you. In addition, do not perform the exercise if

you think that your dog is tired, otherwise it will not be fun for him and he will lose

interest in the training.

Dogs aren't really stubborn. But they often don't clearly know what's wanted. Make it

clear by quickly establishing alpha (dominant leader) status. Be willing to exercise thepatience and modest, firm force to get the desired behavior. This can be particularly

challenging when training a 'come'.

Dogs naturally want to explore the environment. They sniff everything, turn things over,

dig and snatch small objects. As with any training session, minimize the distractions by

arranging to be as alone and far from other voices as possible. A backyard with a cleararea or a large room with few small objects on the floor is best.

Take advantage of spontaneous behavior by observing when the dog is heading toward

you and execute a voice-command/hand gesture pair that's unique for this behavior. Tryto select a hand-gesture and word that you wouldn't normally use except during training.

Start by facing the dog, putting it in a sit. Execute the 'stay!' command, and then back

away a step or two. Issue the hand-gesture and voice command. Praise lavishly for thecorrect behavior, but never reward 'partial' or incorrect ones.

Repeat, stepping further away. If the dog comes too soon, put it in a sit/stay and try again.

If the dog won't come at all, encourage with a treat or favorite toy.

For the slow learners or the, well let's not say stubborn but just reluctant, leash and collar

training can be a useful supplement. Put the dog in a sit/stay and back off a few feetreeling out the slack leash. If the dog refuses to come, give a gentle but unmistakable tug

while executing the voice command and hand gesture.

For the dog that comes a little to readily, get a long leash or rope and wrap around a treeor post. As the dog lifts off too early, give the leash a tug and execute a 'stay' command.

If you don't have a tree handy, try to find a partner to help with the training. The

downside to using a partner is the dog will more readily become confused about whom toobey. Focus on a single person is always more efficient.

As with any training, patience and consistency are essential. Dogs don't spontaneouslyunderstand the usefulness of 'come' or any other human-induced behavior. Speaking



harshly when the dog commits errors or is willful is usually counter-productive. Establishalpha status by firmness of voice, body posture and willingness to wait for compliance.

Physical restraint or leading is a less helpful technique.

Most dogs quickly prove themselves eager to please and responsive to praise following

the correct behavior. Just make sure they're the ones 'coming', not you. If necessary,prove that you're the stubborn one.

(Back To Index)

Teaching your Miniature Pinscher to sit and stay

Now that your Miniature Pinscher has learned to followthe command “come,” he is ready for his next trick.

Another very useful behavior that you can teach your dog

is to learn how to “sit.” “Sit” is one of the simplest tricks

to teach. Learning this behavior is vital because it is aneffective way to control your dog and also help you set

the foundation for other training to follow.

Watch these videosshowing a trainer teaching

a dog to "stay" and "sit"

It is very easy to teach your Miniature Pinscher how to “”sit.” Stand right in front of him

while holding a treat slightly above his eye level. Say, “sit” and then move the treat

closer to him until it is just above his eyes. You may have to put your other hand on hisrump to prevent him from jumping up. If he takes a step back instead of sitting down,

place his rear against a wall. When he begins to look up and bend his hind legs, say

“good” and then give him the treat. Repeat this process again. Have him bend his legsmore and more this time until he is in a full “sit” position before saying “good” and

giving him the treat.

Dogs can learn an amazing variety of behaviors, but few so fundamentally important asthe 'sit'. Beyond the basic need to establish that the human of the pair is the alpha

(leader), it has a number of practical benefits.

When a dog sits he's more attentive, making it easier to follow further commands. His

eyes are on you, the alpha.

As important as what the dog is doing, is what he is not. In a sit, he's more or less

stationary. There are still those wagging tails, after all. That means he's not chasing the

cat, knocking over the furniture, running through the garden or out into the street.

But getting there can be easier or more difficult depending on breed, individual and

training style. Fortunately, almost every dog can and will learn this basic move in short

order.

First, take advantage of the dog's spontaneous behavior by observing him closely. Theidea is to catch him in the middle of performing the behavior and say 'sit' and gesture.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-tips-lab-stay.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-tips-lab-sit.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-tips-lab-sit.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-tips-lab-stay.htm



That way a dog associates the behavior with the command. Always associate a uniquehand signal and tone with the command. Praise the dog lavishly. Hold off on food treats.

Save the bribes until you really need them.

At first the dog will have no idea why you're so happy. But dogs tend to be happy when

the alpha is, and upset when he is. With repetition comes understanding.

When you want to initiate a sit, stand and face the dog then issue the command, then wait

for the desired response. Some will get it after the first couple of tries, some will take ten

or more. Some won't get it without further prompting. Now bring out the other

techniques.

With a treat or a favored toy, face the dog and place it above his head and slightly behind

the forehead, but still visible. The dog will tend to look up and stretch its chin slightlybackward. When you have his attention move the treat slowly back toward the tail.

Some dogs will respond by backing up. If so, try the technique near the couch or a fencewhere he has nowhere to go. When the dog starts to sit, give the command and hand

signal. At the completion of the sit, praise lavishly and give the reward.

Voice commands aren't the only sound that will work. Many trainers use a 'clicker' - a

small plastic and metal device that makes a 'click-clack' sound when pressed and

released. Dogs can distinguish the sound over surprisingly long distances and amidst

other moderate background noise.

As a last resort, for the stubborn or slow learner, give the command and at the same timepush gently on the back near the tail as you lift his chin. Praise and reward anyway, even

though you had to 'force' the sit. Take special care with young hips - don't force acompletely uncooperative dog this way.

Repetition, consistency (reward only for the proper action), and enthusiasm will quickly

lead to learning the 'sit'. Don't be harsh, but don't give up easily either. And never let himtrain you.

Once your Miniature Pinscher knows how to “sit,” he then needs to learn how to remainin the sitting position for as long as necessary. The way to do this is to teach him to

“stay,” which is another very useful command that you can teach your dog.

Dogs have a dangerous habit of running off through open doors, whether from the houseor from a car. It is very important to teach your dog to sit and stay until you give him the

signal that it is ok to get back up. Only then can he walk through the door or exit the car.

Get your dog to sit and then say, “stay” in a calm and soothing voice. If he tries to get up

or lie down, immediately gently place him back into position. Have him maintain the

position for a few seconds and then give the release word “ok.” Do not forget to praiseand give him his favorite treat for doing a great job.



Repeat the process again, gradually increasing the amount of time that he has to sit and

stay. However, do not ask your Miniature Pinscher puppy to stay longer than 30 seconds.

The goal is to let your pet succeed, not push him to the limit. Remember to be patientand to increase time and distance in small increments.

Avoid staring into your dog’s eyes if you think that it will help him to focus his attentionon you. Doing so only creates the opposite effect. Your dog will sense the staring as a

threat and can be intimidating.

Dogs have a significant capacity for training their trainers. Apart from making us waveour hands and bark odd words, we regularly fetch treats and run after tennis balls. Not

useful to us, but the dog enjoys it.

To put things back the way they're meant to be, assert your alpha status. One of the

foremost methods is a frequent use of 'the stay'. Just what it sounds like, the stay requires

the dog to remain stationary, in place, while you move about. Just the reverse of theusual situation in too many cases.

First, train the dog to 'sit' on command using the word and hand signals. I snap my fingersand simultaneously flip my extended index finger down at an angle to the ground. This

gets the dog's attention - without tying up my hands with a clicker - and shows the proper

direction for the dog's rear. It works surprisingly well.

Then with the pup, teen or mature dog in the sit, I thrust a hand in the dog's direction

palm first and fingers raised giving the voice command 'stay!'. Not yelling, just distinctand audible over other noise and distractions. Hand movements should be precise and

unique to a particular command/behavior.

Take one step back.

The dog will tend to follow, so repeat the hand gestures for sit and stay. If the dog fails tocomply, take a treat or toy and move it over the dog's head and slightly back of the eyes.

Still visible, but in a direction that forces the chin up. Some dogs will rotate around.

Repeat until you get the correct behavior then praise lavishly.

Now try again.

Once the dog will remain stationary after one step back, take two. Then four, then eight.Usually the further you are away the less control you have. The dog naturally wants to

follow the alpha (leader).

One trick for overcoming this is to leash the dog on a collar and long leash or rope. Wrap

the leash around a tree or post a few feet behind the dog and hold the leash as you face

the dog. As the dog stands and steps forward, give a tug on the rope and issue the voicecommand and hand gesture. Don't pull so hard as to unbalance the dog. You want to



restrain not punish. A partner can be used instead of a tree, but dogs can becomeconfused about whom to obey, making that a secondary choice.

Some dogs will tend to lie down during the exercise, especially as you back away a fewfeet. You may have to train an 'up'-'sit' combination before mastering 'stay'. Breeds and

individuals will vary in how long - how many repetitions over how many days - it takesthem to consistently obey, but almost all get it eventually.

After the stay has lasted a few seconds, issue 'come' with a unique tone and hand gesture.

Make it something you can do precisely, but aren't likely to do during normal activity.

Command gestures should be unique and reserved for specific behaviors.

When the dog comes, praise lavishly and repeat the exercise, making the stay last longer

as the dog learns. You'll have succeeded completely when you can go back into the houseand the dog will 'stay'. Don't forget to release him after a minute.

Of course, he'll be expecting you to bring back treats and a tennis ball. Don't disappoint.

(Back To Index)

Training your Miniature Pinscher to “down” and “heel”

There will be many occasions when you will need yourMiniature Pinscher to stay in one place for more than 30

seconds at a time. It is easy for him to get impatient after

a while on a sit and stand position. Teaching him the“down” command can come in really handy for this type

of situation.

Watch this video trainerteaching a dog to “lie

down.”

Begin teaching “down” by getting your dog in a sitting position. Say “down” whileshowing him a treat. Move the treat below his nose and toward the ground. Give it to

him as soon as he reaches down to get it. Go over the process again, this time requiring

him to reach farther down without lifting his rear from the ground, until he eventuallylowers his elbows to the ground. Never try to force him into the down position. Doing

so can scare a submissive dog and cause a dominant dog to resist. As soon as he is

familiar with the “down” command, practice “down-stay” the same way as “sit-stay.”

Walking on-leash is probably the exercise that your Miniature Pinscher does most often.

In this case, teaching him to walk right beside you should be fairly easy. But if walkingon-leash is new to him, he will more likely resist the leash or freeze in his tracks once herealizes that his freedom is being restricted. If your dog is not used to walking on leash,

do not try to drag her along. You have to coax your dog a few steps at a time with food.

Reward and praise him as he follows you. This helps him realize that following youwhile walking on-leash is a good experience.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-tips-lab-down.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-training-tips-lab-down.htm



When he gets used to walking alongside you, he is ready for his next step. Teaching yourMiniature Pinscher the command “heel” creates for a more enjoyable and relaxing walk

with him by not having the pull the leash. It is also a way of letting your dog know that it

is your turn to lead the walk.

Having your dog heel means making him walk on your left side with his shoulder evenwith your knee. Lining up your feet and your dog’s front paws is also ideal. Say hisname followed by “heel,” then step off with your left foot first and keep on walking.

During the few practices, stay on a short lead, hold him in the heel position, and continue

with the praise.

If your dog still tries to walk ahead of you after showing him what he is supposed to do,

gently pull him back to position with a quick light tug and then take the lead. As you

progress with the training, try walking at different speeds and turning right and left toyour walks. Practice in different locations and around different distractions.

'Nature to be commanded, must be obeyed' said Francis Bacon. Nowhere more true thandog training. Dogs have a natural tendency to seek and adhere to a hierarchy with an

alpha (leader) at the top on down to an omega at the bottom. 'Down' is one effective

technique for enforcing your alpha status.

It also has practical benefits. When a dog is in the 'down' position, it isn't knocking over

the furniture or small children. It also leads naturally to subsequent behaviors such as

'rollover', 'crawl' and other keen tricks.

Fortunately, the behavior is usually very easy to train. Take advantage of spontaneousbehavior whenever possible, by observing the dog and waiting for a movement from

standing or sitting to down.

When you see it occurring, execute a unique voice command and hand gesture pair.

Every behavior should be associated with a unique hand gesture, not used spontaneously

during the day, as well as a clear, precise word and tone.

After the command when the behavior is complete, praise lavishly. At first, the dog will

have no idea why it's being praised. It doesn't matter. With repetition the behavior willfollow the command. It's results you're after.

Most dogs won't perform the desired behavior on command the first few times. Be patient

and clear and consistent. As with all training, minimize noise and movement distractionsduring the training session. Try to be alone with the dog as far from other voices as

possible.

Encourage the behavior by taking a treat or favored toy and putting the dog in a 'sit', and

then move the treat or toy all the way to the ground just in front of the nose.



After several repetitions with the treat or toy, try just using a 'waving down' handmovement, palm toward the floor or ground. Never reward with praise or treat until the

behavior is complete and correct, but also don't become tense or angry after failure.

For the slow learner or assertive dog, it may be necessary to supplement training with a

collar and leash. Use a short nylon or leather leash - two to four feet is best - and put thedog in a sit and kneel down facing him.Watch this video showing

a trainer teaching the

“heel” command.Make the hand gesture, issue the voice command and

move a treat or toy from the dog's chin to the ground

while pulling gently on the leash. The goal is toencourage, not to punish.

In the really hard cases, kneel down and put the leash loop under one foot and slide itunder the knee of the opposite leg, facing at a slight angle to the dog. Pull the leash loop

with your foot, sliding it over your leg. Simultaneously, gently take both the dog's

forelegs and pull toward you, issuing the voice command.

When the dog is in position, praise lavishly even though you executed the movement not

the dog. You want the dog to associate the position with good feelings - his and yours.

Patience and commitment to regular sessions is key to training any behavior.

(Back To Index)

5 neat tricks that you can teach your Miniature Pinscher

Now that your dog is familiar with basic practical commands, he is ready to learn somemore fun and flashy tricks. Tricks such as “Roll over,” “play dead,” “shake hands,”

“catch,” and” speak” that will sure to impress your friends and everybody who catchessight of him. These tricks are simple and easy to teach along with the help of the same

concepts used in basic command training.

Teaching your pet tricks is easiest when you work with

their nature, not against it. Most dogs are eager to please

and respond enthusiastically to rewards. Teaching tricksis often as much a matter of simply using those rewards

to direct or build on a spontaneous behavior as it is

teaching an entirely foreign one.

Check out this dog trainerdemonstrating a series of

tricks you can teach your

dog.

Watch for spontaneous behavior close to the one desired. A dog will sometimes crawl on

its belly for no apparent reason. It may be scratching, it may simply be having fun. If this

is a desired trick, watch for the beginnings of the behavior, then be prepared to associateit with a hand gesture and voice command, then reward immediately.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-train-ret-heel.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-tricks-speak.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-tricks-speak.htm

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-train-ret-heel.htm



Teaching the basic 'sit', 'come', etc commands is usually simple. A few repetitions with atreat or verbal praise and the dog learns rapidly. Teaching tricks can sometimes be as

easy as expanding on the basic behaviors. 'Come' can easily be transformed into 'walk in

a circle'. Abbreviate to one word, such as 'circle' or 'spin' for example.

At first it might be helpful to use treats to encourage wanted actions, but don't overdo it.Diets spoil easily, and ultimately you want the dog to respond to verbal command andpraise without food rewards. After the command-behavior pair becomes automatic, treats

can be withdrawn.

Favorite toys are a good way to encourage certain tricks. Take a short rope the dog lovesto play tug with and encourage a jump by moving it rapidly up and down, just out of

reach. Then, after the command-behavior pair is established forgo the rope and just use

your hand.

Hide-and-seek is another game easily taught using a favorite bone or chew ball. The dog's

sense of smell is keen not only close up but at surprising distances. Take advantage of itby hiding the toy under a box a few feet away, then lengthen the distance, remove the box

to another room or place it up on a table. Proceed in stages.

Dogs' affection is a useful trick training aid. Many spontaneously want to offer a paw to

express themselves. Put the dog in a 'sit', then kneel down in front of him. Hold up your

own 'paw' and give a command 'five' (for 'high five' or 'give me five' or 'paw', whatever

works).

Sometimes the paw comes up right away, for others you may have to gently pull it upusing the voice command at the same time. Praise anyway, once you're in position. Put

the paw back down and try again.

Extending tricks is easy, too. Start with one 'high five', then extend into 'sit pretty' by

taking the paw and lifting gently. The other will often come up spontaneously. Hold both

and praise and reward. When sitting at the desk and I want mine to sit pretty, I often patmy chest and up he comes followed by lavish praise.

Training tricks should be fun, both for you and the dog. Other training is for safety,control, discouraging property destruction, etc. Tricks are strictly to give you and your

friend something to laugh about. Enjoy!

Keep in mind that when training your dog the following tricks you can teach him to dothem on demand. Be patient, be creative, and above all, make sure that you and your dog

are having fun in the process.

1. Roll over: To teach your dog to roll over, start by telling him to lie down, and then say

“roll over” while luring him on his side with a treat. Once he is familiar with rolling on

his side, use the treat to lead him onto his back. Lead him the rest of the way, eventuallygiving the treat only when he is has rolled all of the way over.



2. Play dead: Teach your Miniature Pinscher how to play dead by teaching him to lie

down from a standing position. Start by guiding him with his favorite treat. Make him

drop quickly in order to get it. As soon as he is in the down position, lure him over on hisside, requiring him to stay down for longer periods before giving the treat. To get his

head down, try placing the treat on the floor and not give it unless he places his head low.You may have to use your hand to give him a little help.

3. Shake hands: In teaching this trick, the first thing that you need to do is to command

your dog to “sit.” Then say, “shake” and hold a treat in your closed hand in front of your

dog. Most dogs will pick up a foot and paw at your hand to get the treat. However, somedogs need a little nudge on the leg. You can also lure his head to one side, which makes

him lift the leg up on the opposite side. Reward him as soon as his paw leaves the

ground. Once he is familiar with this trick, have him lift his leg higher and longer.

4. Catch: Teach your dog how to catch by tossing a ball or a treat in a high arc over his

face, making it land just behind his nose. If your dog refuses to catch it, pick it up beforehe tries to grab it. He will eventually figure out that in order for him to beat you to the

treat, he will have to grab it before it reaches the ground. One of warning, do not try this

technique with a dog that has a tendency to be possessive of his food.

5. Speak: This trick can be taught by saying “speak” when it appears as if he is about to

bark, followed by a trick. Do not reward the barking unless you have first said, “speak.”

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Dealing With Aggression

It is a common trait for all Miniature Pinschers to demonstrate some level of aggressive

behavior toward a strange dog. It is in their inherent nature to do so. It is a trait that wasemphasized to them during their early breeding as fighting Miniature Pinschers and one

that is difficult to possess in today’s society. Miniature Pinschers were bred for many

generations to be fighting dogs. But just because they were originally bred to fight doesnot mean that they are vicious dogs. That is not the case at all. However, it is accurate to

say that many Miniature Pinschers are naturally inclined to behave confidently and

sometimes aggressively toward other dogs. It is also accurate to say that most of themare naturally inclined to win a fight should another dog start it.

Miniature Pinschers that stem from genetic lines that were producing fighting dogs aremore inclined to have this tendency than Miniature Pinschers from lines that were notselected for fighting in recent a generation. In any case, regardless of how long it has

been since your dog’s ancestors were used for fighting, his instinct and ability to fight

another dog remains with him. It is in his blood and one of his original reasons forexistence. So keep in mind that the gentlest and calmest of Miniature Pinschers who will

never dare start a fight will also never dare back down from one that another dog hasstarted.



Each breed of dog has a tendency to do what its genes tell it to do. Refusing to accept

that fact is not only unfair but irresponsible. Denying that your Miniature Pinscher’s

heritage is one of gameness and toughness is like denying that a Golden Retriever has atendency to retrieve. On the other hand, retrievers are not the only breed that is inclined

to retrieve, just as the Miniature Pinschers are not the only breed that is inclined to fight.If you are adamant about not getting a dog that carries the possibility of being aggressiveor fighting with another dog, then it is wise to not get more than one Miniature Pinscher.

With all types of dog breeds out there, there is always a great deal of variation. Many

Miniature Pinschers get along wonderfully with other dogs while some may not get alongwith them at all. There are also many breeds out there that are far less tolerant of living

with other dogs than Miniature Pinschers are. Although Miniature Pinschers that were

brought up in a fighting environment and came from fighting lines are most likelyinclined to be aggressive toward other dogs, other breeds that were raised in the most

friendliest of homes and came from the gentlest of lines may not get along with other

dogs.

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Maintaining the “leader of the pack” with your Miniature Pinscher

When it comes to dogs, aggression towards people is the most dangerous of all of thebehavioral problems that a dog can have is.

Dogs can either display aggression toward family members or toward strangers. Becauseof the seriousness of this problem, you need to consult your vet and ask for a

recommendation of a certified “companion animal behaviorist” if your dog displays anysigns of aggression toward humans.

Under no circumstances should you take any chances in regards to this issue. You need

to take immediate action if you think that your dog shows anger and aggression with

people. Seek the help of a behaviorist, a vet experienced in behavior, or from anexperienced dog trainer.

Although it is very important to establish dominance over your Miniature Pinscher,bullying your way into training is never the right answer. The way to place yourself as

the “leader of the pack” is by treating your dog gently, but at the same time letting him

know that you are in charge. Besides, you control what goes on in your territory (yourhome) including his food and attention. Never let your dog think that he is leading thepack in your household.

For example, you should not pet him every time he asks for it, nor should you allow himto go first through doorways. Do not feed him before eating your own meal. Refrain

from letting him win at games. Never let him have his way every time he actsaggressively. And of course, you are never to let him think that you are scared of him.



The most common reason for dominant aggression occurs as a result of rivalry over a

resource. Whenever you try to take away your dog’s food or toy, intrude his sleeping

area, or even try to step past him in a narrow hall, your Miniature Pinscher may read youractions as being antagonistic. He will then more likely respond to you in the same

manner. Sometimes, your dog may show more dominance and aggression towards youand your family than he would with strangers. This may include standing over you,walking stiffly, staring, and ignoring your commands. These are definite signs that you

need to work with a professional to re-established control over your Miniature Pinscher.

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Section 7: Dog Training For Special Situations

Training Assertive Dogs

As descendants from wolf packs, dogs have and seek a natural hierarchy in which someare dominant (alphas) and others follow. Struggles among young pups to sort of out the

hierarchy can start in as early as three weeks after birth.

Apart from human society, wild dogs will fight - sometimes to the death - to maintain or

achieve the alpha status. Losers are occasionally expelled from the pack entirely.

But in any human-dog pair the human has to take the leader role. The alternative isproperty destruction, human frustration and usually a maladjusted dog. Naturally, that's

sometimes easier said than done.

Pups display early in life the tendency to want to lead or acceptance of a subsidiary role.

For those who insist on being alpha, several techniques can help adjust the dog's

behavior. But first you have to identify it.

Put the pup on its back with a firm hand placed in the middle of the chest. No need to

press hard, just enough to keep the dog from wiggling away. Monitor the strength andlength of time the dog takes to submit, signaled by pulled back paws, averted eyes, and

general relaxing.

Most individuals will struggle at the unfamiliar position and submissive role. The

strength of the struggle and the length to relaxation will vary from breed to breed -



Golden Retrievers may submit relatively quickly, where terriers may never stopstruggling.

Dogs learn by cue and repetition so to assist curing excessive assertiveness lean your faceclose to the dog's and growl, bark or even shout when required. Don't expect completely

satisfactory results the first few times, but gradually most will learn to accept theirsecondary role.

A variation has the person stand or kneel in front of the dog, then lift it at the chest using

one or two hands. Most dogs, especially dominant ones, dislike this but they quickly

learn who's the boss. Alternatively, grasp both front paws and lift up. Don't be tooaggressive. The goal is to encourage acceptance of their role, not to punish.

For those inclined to leap up on people, there are several useful techniques.

First, try to distinguish between dominance and the desire for affection. Many dogs leap

in order to get closer to the human face. Dogs that height have eyes that see at that level.Eye contact and face rubbing is used by them to encourage bonding and establish social

roles. They may just be trying to communicate. Kneel down and allow non-biters to get

close to the face.

Maintain enough eye contact to establish dominance by waiting for them to look away.

Try not to blink. When the dog accepts its role, praise lavishly with ear rubs and leaning

your forehead into the dog's head. Keep your head higher until your role is well-established.

For those who need extra discouragement, try the following.

Watch the dog's face and body carefully for tell-tale signs signaling an imminent jump.Discourage the behavior with voice commands ('stay' or 'down') and a palm thrust out and

down into the dog's face. If they're already in mid-flight, raise a knee slightly into the

dog's chest. To keep them off and put them off-balance, NOT to pummel the dog orthrow it backwards, except in emergencies.

Establishing the alpha role takes patience and commitment and repetition. Assertive dogswill test you throughout their lifetimes. Be prepared to defend your role.

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Training Passive Dogs

Like humans, dogs are individuals. Some, through a combination of genetics,

circumstances and self-development display assertive characteristics and others are morepassive.



Assertive dogs seek alpha (leader) status, forcibly remove rawhide bones or toys fromothers, try to enter doors first and are generally more demanding of attention. Passive

dogs - either with, without or despite training - will tend to eat last, enter last and wait to

be noticed.

At first blush, it may not appear that passive dogs really require much training sincemuch of it takes the form of restraining dogs from unwanted behavior. Assertive dogs areleashed and corrected when they pull ahead during a walk or training exercise. Assertive

dogs are taught not to rush out the door after every passing cat. Even fetch and release is

often more a matter of redirecting behavior than encouraging it.

By contrast, passive dogs spontaneously wait to exit after others and show less tendency

to dig, chase cats and perform other unwanted behaviors. Passive dogs will often separate

themselves a short distance from other dogs in the house.

But some passive behavior is undesirable and can even put the dog at risk. Willingness to

allow any stranger to approach unchallenged can, unfortunately, sometimes be an unsafepractice. Accepting treats from anyone who offers can be bad for the diet or even

dangerous. There are, regrettably, sick people who will poison a dog or steal it this way.

Teach the passive dog that boundaries need to be respected both by the dog and unknown

humans. Discourage treat taking from people you meet only once. Paranoia would be

misplaced, but you're training the dog not judging every stranger.

To optimize your chance of success, as with any dog, work with the dog's nature not

against it. Even passive dogs enjoy play and welcome rewards. 'Passive' and 'fearful' arenot the same thing.

If you have multiple dogs, take the less assertive one out by itself from time to time. Thatway the only more dominant member of the pack nearby is you. Allow and encourage it

to enter the house first occasionally. Feed it while the others are not around sometimes.

When multiple dogs are fed together, ensure the passive one is not chased away fromfood.

Find one or more objects the dog enjoys - a favored stuffed cotton ball or rope or a beef-treated rawhide bone, for example. Perform the same 'sit' then 'up' maneuver with the dog

you would with any other, but don't keep it waiting as long as you would a more assertive

dog. A more encouraging, friendly voice is helpful, too.

Passive behavior is, to some extent, unchangeable - either physiological/genetic or

'chosen' (to the extent dogs have free will). Expectations about modifying the behavior of

passive dogs shouldn't be too high. Nevertheless, with patience and persistence somedegree of change is possible.



As with any training program, consistency and commitment are key. Expect to have todevote an hour a day for some weeks or months to encouraging a particular habit. Don't

give up at the first or even the tenth failure.

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Training Purebred Dogs

The term 'purebred' is relative. No breed has been so isolated that it's never mated with

another.

But taken over the last hundred years or so, there are populations of Golden Retriever,

German Shepherds and many others that have bred only with their own kind. As with anyinbreeding program, the results tend to produce extremes, both good and bad.

The bad aspect is that, for technical reasons, genes that lead to undesirable conditions will

occur more frequently the narrower the population. Instances of hip dysplasia in GoldenRetrievers are more likely to be passed on if programs are careless. Fortunately, they

rarely are.

The other extreme produces show dogs or simply companions that tend to have a higher

capacity for learning and stronger bodies. But even in these 'better' types, training is

challenging.

Along with superior physical capacity comes the confidence to tackle larger obstacles,

the need for more interaction, and - there's no other way to put it - a more finickycharacter. Mutts, on the whole, are more relaxed than purebreds.

As a consequence, be prepared to commit extra time and attention to the standard 'sit',

'stay', 'come' basics. Expect a greater capacity for attention, but also a higher likelihood of willfulness. Purebreds tend to be more independent.

Both mixed and purebreds love exercise and play. But the purebred will often want toplay 'his' way. Increased repetition and a refusal to compromise will help you maintain

and reinforce your alpha (leader) status. Fortunately, as can be seen from show trials on

television, purebreds can exhibit a wide variety of complex behavior flawlessly.

That behavior comes, though, from the many hours over many months or years of

focused training. A superior potential is just that - a capacity. To bring out that capacity,focus on the dog's strengths.

One well-known woman on the show circuit has trained her companion to perform a

complex dance routine lasting several minutes. The dog backs up, shoots through herlegs, winds around in a circle, and much more but always in a pattern. Taking what

would be random movements and turning them into choreography requires breakingdown the routine into short segments.



Focus on a specific, say moving backwards as you move forward. Face the dog, who

starts in a sit position. Then 'up' and step forward. Even highly intelligent dogs don't

spontaneously back up on command. Encourage the behavior by holding a treat or toyabove the head and slightly beyond the eyes, moving forward in steps.

Try one step, then two, then six, then twelve. Repeat the exercise daily until the dog has itcompletely automated and executes flawlessly.

Accompany your movement with a unique tone and word combination. Praise lavishly

for correct execution and display firm patience, not harsh condemnation, for errors.

Consistency will eventually lead to the desired results.

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Training Non-neutered Dogs

Not every dog gets spayed (removal of female reproductive organs) or neutered (removal

of male organs). Whether through an intention to breed or other motive, many individualsleave their companions intact. Left with a full complement of nature's hormones, these

dogs can react differently than their surgically altered counterparts.

Males with the normal amount of testosterone tend to be prone to seek alpha (leader)

status, and when exposed to a female in heat will often ignore commands. Licking

behavior increases, the male will gently head butt a female in the neck, and eventually tryto mount.

Separated from the female, they'll exhibit rapid breathing and pacing, often going without

eating for two days or more. They'll often even refuse water after hours of not drinking.

Females left unaltered will experience a menstrual cycle about twice per year. During that

roughly three week interval, there's an increased tendency to wander and a greaterwillingness to accept the attention of strange dogs. Previously passive females will dig

under a fence and display their hind parts with tails lifted to males of almost any breed.

Getting compliance to commands during these times is difficult, but not always

impossible. If you've consistently retained the alpha (leader) role in the 'pack', you have a

say in who mates who when. You'll need to be especially assertive during these times, buteven excited males will obey up to a point.

Even outside of mating periods, unneutered males will typically exhibit a stronger push

toward dominance, especially in the first year or two. The counter for this is simply arefusal to accept anything less than alpha status. But far from being harsh, there are

several alternatives.



Most dogs love to play. Distracting that assertive male with a tennis ball, a short rope orother favorite toy decreases tension on both sides of the equation. You control the ball,

you hand out or take away the toy, and you ensure compliance with your wishes by leash,

treat and firm voice command. All these help remind the dog that you're in charge.

When leash training or walking, these assertive males will have a stronger tendency topull ahead. To counter this, keep the leash a couple of inches BEHIND you. If the dogstrains at the leash, initiate a sharp, firm jerk to the right (NOT back) accompanied by a

strong 'HEEL'. That assumes the dog walks on your left and the leash is held in your left

hand, as is usually the case. Reverse directions as needed.

Unless your dog is very small this won't injure them. Dogs have very strong neck

muscles. The goal is to put them off balance and to control, not to punish.

Untreated dogs require extra patience - as if the normal amount weren't already

enormous. But they're also less likely to be fearful in stressful situations and more willing

to take risks. For people with certain lifestyles who enjoy taking their friend with them,that can be a big plus.

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Training Older Dogs

Of course, 'you can't teach an old dog new tricks' is a myth. Like humans, or many other

species, dogs learn new things every day throughout life. My ten-year old Golden is still

mentally alert and eager to 'play' in new ways.

But, also like humans, learning new behavior is often as much a matter of unlearning oldways. Dogs do have a strong tendency toward habits, and modifying or extending those

habits after years of repetition takes extra patience and focused guidance.

Physical limitations should always be taken into account. The three-year-old dog has a

huge capacity for running, jumping, retrieval, obstacle course maneuvers and so forth.The older dog may still want to do all those things, even learning new configurations, but

tires more easily and loses interest more rapidly.

Take training sessions in shorter time chunks and expect to carry out many more

repetitions. Make obstacles lower and runs shorter. Throw the ball two or three times,

rather than twenty. Hearing loss occurs in dogs, too. Don't assume they're ignoring youwhen far away and facing away.

Allow for longer recovery periods between sessions. An active game of fetch is still a

possible source of enjoyment, but keep in mind the dog will often want to go longer thanis safe or healthy. Ligaments get stretched more readily and injuries more likely if you

over do it.



Restrain food rewards for older dogs. The desire to reward an older dog for a newbehavior is even more pronounced than for younger dogs, of whom we expect more. But

older dogs can also more easily be 'over treated'. They gain weight more readily and shed

pounds slower.

As with younger dogs, consistency is still essential. Specific play periods that begin andend around the same time of day help cue the dog. Similar areas for specific activitieshelp provide a sense of familiarity as background for new lessons.

When working with my Goldens the backyard is for tennis ball fetch, the forest never.

But that fetch behavior in the yard can be extended to the forest to retrieve fallen deerantlers.

Conversely, digging - a natural behavior in many breeds, almost impossible to eradicateentirely - can be channeled into harmless areas even in older dogs.

For those not lucky enough to have a forest in the backyard, a ten-by-twelve foot area of the pen or yard where the dog is allowed to indulge can help release the urge. The

boundary can be marked by variation in scent or ground composition. Even older dogs

can learn what is theirs to play with and what isn't and their sense of smell remains keen.

Focus more on building on the dog's existing strengths, since older dogs are less

malleable. One individual will be excellent at fetch and release, the other more inclined to

hang onto the ball. One does well with a Frisbee, the other never gets the hang of it.Rather than force desired behavior, work with each one's unique nature.

The dog more inclined to hang onto a ball is a good candidate for learning to pull a

wagon by a rope. The better 'fetch and release' dog can more easily be taught to get aplastic food container. Handy things, since trainers get older too.

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Training: Assistance Dogs

Once upon a time, seeing-eye (guide) dogs were almost the only type of assistance dog

around. Over the last few decades, the field has widened considerably.

Today, dogs help the hearing impaired, the blind, wheelchair bound and bedridden.

Others simply provide a new kind of therapy for prisoners, burn victims, the clinicallydepressed or merely homebound.

Training starts before birth by careful selection. It's no accident that certain breeds tend to

be more useful for these roles than others. German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers, and afew others are favored both for intelligence and temperament.



Even within breeds some individual dogs are more keen on training than others. Theydisplay not only the ability to perform a simple task on command, but a confidence and

eagerness that's essential to the job.

After a year of in-house training and bonding with a person who also receives special

training, the dog 'graduates' to the next level. Then, depending on the intended role, theyreceive an additional two months to two years of intensive, specialized instruction.

Dogs in these programs learn everything from simple barking to alert the deaf to a door

knock or telephone ring to fetching containers of food or drink, opening doors, and - of

course - providing vision-information to the sightless.

A seeing-eye guide dog may lead their blind companion around obstacles on the street or

at the mall. The hearing-guide dog may alert their friend to an oncoming fire truck. Thewheelchair assistant may even help the occupant off the floor or into bed.

These special animals are trained to stay focused in crowds and deal with varyingenvironments. Some go to urban areas where they're used to see a curb as a boundary,

others find homes in rural areas where they learn that turning on a garden hose is more

important than chasing a fox from the property. Try teaching that to Chauncy the terriersome time! Possible, but not easy.

Besides the traditional sit, stay, come these working dogs must learn to jump on

command to deliver a cup of water without spilling to a paraplegic. They turn on or off lights, change the volume on the stereo, and bring bags containing medicines. Some are

even trained to recognize and react to heart attacks and strokes and call 911!

Learning such beyond-the-norm behaviors takes months of dedicated concentration byboth trainer and dog. Patience beyond what most individuals possess is required to teacheven the most willing students.

Dogs learn by cue and repetition. Though they can learn to recognize sounds and graspsimple meanings, they don't possess even the three-year old humans understanding of

language. Teaching them to associate the sound 'water' with 'fetch me a cup' is many

times more difficult than for the average toddler.

Yet these amazing creatures, with the guidance of their talented and dedicated trainers,

learn to carry out a range of behavior well beyond their peers. So, when you see one

accompanying its partner, respect the sign they carry that says 'Working. Please don'tdistract'.

Just give a silent bow of admiration to these hard-working dogs and the dedicated peoplewho train them.

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Training: Service Dogs

And you thought normal dog training was difficult. Sit, stay, down, come, heel... allrequire weeks or more of dedicated trainer and dog effort to master. Now, consider the

months or years needed to train a police, search and rescue, guide or other service dog.

Training these special animals starts with careful selection. It's no accident that certainbreeds - German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers and others - tend to be selected. Others

may be just as loving as pets, but don't usually have the physical characteristics nor

temperament needed to carry out the wide range of complex behavior these working dogsperform.

Even within breeds some individuals early on display an aptitude for the rigoroustraining, while others are dropped from the program or moved into different areas.

Assertiveness is needed, but not aggression. Except in emergencies and on command

only. Confidence is essential, but not willfulness. Strength is important, but intelligence is

key.

Once selected, trainers deepen the bonds needed to build trust and perform on command.

Police, search and rescue and even guide dogs can easily find themselves in dangeroussituations. Like humans, such individuals don't always spontaneously put themselves in

harm's way. Some though, with proper training, will take on challenges even trained and

athletic humans would think twice about undertaking.

Search and rescue dogs, for example, have been known to ford freezing rivers to snatch

and extract drowning children. Others have pulled half-buried avalanche victims fromotherwise certain death, while the ice cracks beneath their canine feet.

Training consists of a year or more of acclimatization in the trainer's home or facility to

learn basic commands and trust. Once the animal is certified as trainable, the real effortbegins.

Depending on the job, service dogs receive from 6 to 18 months of additional training,spending hours per day in special instruction. Sometimes the behaviors taught are those

you wouldn't want your average pet to learn.

Everything from simple light switch flipping to pulling open doors to fording water,

locating buried objects and more are covered. Service dogs learn to tolerate gun shots,

avoid obstacles, remain calm and focused on the task in crowds. They may learn toaggressively protect the handler while being gentle with victims.

Some of these extraordinary creatures learn to tolerate smoke, run through burning

buildings or even chase vehicles. Exactly what you wouldn't want Charles the chihuahuato do.

Less dangerous, but no less important tasks are taught to other categories of service dogs.



Seeing-eye or hearing (guide) dogs assist sightless or deaf persons to carry out daily tasks

safely and more conveniently. Whether guiding the blind or wheelchair bound through a

shopping mall, fetching a container of food or drink, or just answering the doorbell theseassistants prove their worth every day.

So, next time you see one of those working dogs at the mall or on the street, rememberthey ARE working. They're carrying out needed chores for which they've been

intensively trained. Let them carry out those important duties and just say a silent 'thanks'

to them and their trainers for a job well done.

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Training Rescued Dogs

Normal dog training requires patience that is greater nowhere else but childrearing.

Training rescued dogs takes even more.

Though sterilizing dogs - spaying (removing female organs) and neutering (removing

male organs) - has been common practice for decades, birth rates continue to outpaceownership. Add to that a percentage that are lost or wander away and the problem grows

larger.

The inevitable result is a large number of dogs that often end in facilities where they're

either adopted or terminated.

But, some of these unfortunate animals get a second chance. Either picked up off the

street or taken home from shelters they find homes with compassionate and committedindividuals who want to help them achieve a decent life. Such caring people can find

themselves with more than they bargained for.

Rescued animals have often been physically and mentally abused by former owners, or

experienced horrendous conditions before being found. Sometimes, because of impatientor unrealistic owners who found their temperament undesirable, they were simply

released to get by as best they could.

Even wild dogs don't do well isolated from a pack. Untrained dogs, on their own with no

other to teach them, fare even worse. But with patience and skill such animals can usually

be trained to at least tolerate touching, to refrain from barking at the slightestprovocation.

The first step is restoring physical health. Get the dog a thorough examination. No animal

is going to be amenable to learning if it's diseased or the training is painful. Anymalnutrition, common in rescued dogs, must first be overcome.



Try to obtain any history. Often this will be impossible, but knowing about any pastabuse, temperament or medical history and general conditions is helpful.

Next, try to establish trust slowly. Don't force physical contact on the dog. Offerinducements to let them seek it from you. At first, instead of offering a treat at close

range to a potential biter lay the treat on the floor then step back several feet. Praise thedog lavishly for taking it.

When you've worked up to physical contact, which happily some will seek immediately,

try rolling them over and placing a hand on the chest. Aggressive dogs will resist and

passive dogs will accept this fearfully. Neither response is desirable. Unlike normaltraining, don't immediately force the aggressive to accept a secondary role. Take it slow.

For the fearful, provide a belly rub and soothing tone to show that being on their backs is

not a prelude to punishment.

Rescued dogs tend to be older, mixed breed, have temperament difficulties and come

from painful circumstances. All these tend to work against the dog learning the usualrange of desired behaviors, and generally more slowly. Some conditions are such that full

recovery never occurs.

Exercise even greater patience and care, but don't let the dog run the household. Even

with rescued dogs it's important that the human be the alpha (leader).

The reward of the greater expense in dollars and time is often a completely devoted andloving companion. Even dogs can exhibit gratitude toward kindness.

It's no accident that some breeds are more commonly found as working dogs. Retrievers,

Shepherds and a few others tend to have the physical characteristics, intelligence andtemperament needed to perform the complex behaviors even they need several years tomaster.

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Specialized Training

Specialized training for service, assistance or even therapy dogs begins before birth andcontinues for several years after.

After the pups have matured a few weeks to a few months, selector-trainers run a seriesof tests to determine stamina, aptitude and overall personality. Candidates first receive athorough physical to check for diseases or potentially debilitating conditions such as hip

dysplaysia or weak joints. Then come the personality tests.

Alpha or Omega?



Dogs are social animals with a natural hierarchy. Through in-built characteristics andearly circumstances they take on varying roles from alpha (leader) to beta (second in

command) to omega (submissive, sometimes on the periphery of the pack).

In any human-dog pair, the human must always take the alpha role, but service dogs still

need to have a fair amount of assertiveness to perform their duties. A common indicatorfor this is the dominance-submission test.

Puppies six to twelve weeks old are placed on their backs and the evaluator places a hand

on its chest. They observe to what degree the puppy protests being placed in that

submissive, vulnerable position and how long the dog struggles before pulling back itspaws and tilting its head to indicate surrender.

Variations involve having the dog stand on all four with the evaluator in front. Theperson then lifts the dog by the chest and monitors how much the dog struggles and for

how long.

Dogs that are too assertive may never make suitable working dogs since they'll tend to

ignore commands. Dogs that are too passive will also be poor candidates, since they need

the confidence to take on the role of guide, rescuer or some other requiring someinitiative and risk-taking.

Noise Sensitivity

Working dogs are often placed in noisy, potentially distracting environments. The

average canine would react fearfully or playfully to all the stimulus, but working dogsneed to focus on a task.

To test for the dog's potential, evaluators clap hands in front of the face or near the ears,bang pots together, rattle chains and so on. Preferred candidates will exhibit a curious

sniff. Frightened running and hiding or excessive barking flunks the dog before they pass

freshman class.

Foreign Objects

Many working dogs have to deal with a variety of objects large and small that others

might find intimidating. Be they moving cars and equipment or simply coat racks,

curiosity signaled by approach and sniffing followed by acceptance is needed. Fear of the

unknown puts them out of the working dog category.

Stamina

Service dogs need to ford rivers, open doors, hurdle obstacles, herd sheep or cattle and be

on the go for long periods. Some breeds and individual dogs naturally have a higher

capacity and even eagerness for long periods of activity. Testing the dog's reaction to or



willingness to surmount a board or pole is just the first test among many to test forstamina.

Motivation

The most essential characteristic for any working dog is the desire to work. Like humans,individual dogs vary in their eagerness to carry out assigned tasks. A variety of exercisestest the intelligence and willingness to jump an obstacle, retrieve an object, return on

command, focus on a task and so forth.

Dogs that are quick to learn and eager to please demonstrate the motivation to take on thecomplex roles performed by service dogs.

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Section 8: Online Resources

Pet Information Links

ASPCA

Humane Society of the United States

The American Kennel Club

The American Veterinary Medical Association

Animal Database Searchhttp://www.seaworld.org/index.asp

Animal Rescuehttp://www.petstation.com/central.html

Animal Rightshttp://www.aldf.org/ http://www.peta-online.org/

Dogshttp://www.dog-play.com/

Pet Magazines Onlinehttp://www.petpublishing.com/dogken/ http://www.petbusiness.com/

©2006-2008 Mill Creek Publishing

http://www.aspca.com/

http://www.hsus.org/

http://www.akc.org/

http://www.avma.org/

http://www.seaworld.org/index.asp

http://www.petstation.com/central.html

http://www.aldf.org/

http://www.peta-online.org/

http://www.dog-play.com/

http://www.petpublishing.com/dogken/

http://www.petbusiness.com/

http://www.petbusiness.com/

http://www.petpublishing.com/dogken/

http://www.dog-play.com/

http://www.peta-online.org/

http://www.aldf.org/

http://www.petstation.com/central.html

http://www.seaworld.org/index.asp

http://www.avma.org/

http://www.akc.org/

http://www.hsus.org/

http://www.aspca.com/



http://www.dog-breed-picture.com

(Back To Index)



Documents

Minature Pinscher