Commercial Residential Agricultural

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in 25

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Tones

Helpful Hints forConstructing Post Frame Buildings

COPPERCOLOR

*

TWILIGHT BLACK WOODLAND TIMBERGOLD RUSH NORTHWEST SLATEBARKDUST BAY HARBOR BLUE

• UL Class “A” fire rated • Class 4 hail Resistance • UL580 Class 90 Wind Uplift• 100,000 PSI Minimal tensile strength

Post Frame

Not available in Copper Colored or Multi-Tone.

STEEL PANELS

* Only Available in Lifetime Products

3

Before Getting Started PageTalk to Local Building Inspector 4Items Recommended 4Traditional Post Frame ConstructionString Line Building Dimensions 5Square the Building 5Setting Corner Posts 6Post Location 7Grade Board 9Girts 10Headers 11Truss Location 12Raising Trusses 13Purlins 14Bracing 14-15Sliding Door Framing 16-17Sliding Door Accessories and Trim 18-19Tab Lock Sliding Doors 20-21Kwik Frame Sliding Doors 22Overhead Door Framing 23Bookshelf Post Frame Construction 24-27Overhangs and Trim 28-29Windows 30 Service Doors 31-33Dutch Doors 34-35Storing, handling, and cutting panels 36Panel Installation 37-39Skylite 40Wainscot and Eavelite 41Pro-Anchor™, Post covers, Coil stock trim 42Interior Liner Panel 43Insulation 44Ventilation 45Cupola Installation 46-47Horse Stalls 48-49Gutter Installation 50-51Accessories & Trim 52-54

Table of Contents

4

Before Getting StartedThis Helpful Hints Guide has been developed to help you construct your post frame building and makes no representation or guarantee that you will be able to successfully complete your building. It is important that questions be asked before you get too far into construction. Study this manual carefully before starting construction. You can use it as a guide and refer to it during construction.

Have you talked to your local building inspector? We suggest you check with your local building official regarding site location, permit procedures, safety regulations and specifications of the materials used to construct your new building.

PLEASE NOTE: This Helpful Hints Guide is intended solely to provide general knowledge as to one of the many ways that a post frame building may be constructed. Builders who utilize this guide must proceed at their own risk and are solely responsible for complying with all the building codes which pertain to their community. hereby disclaims all liability for any damages whether consequential, incidental, special or otherwise, which may result from following this Helpful Hints Guide.

has many prints available to the builder to better aid them in the construction of the post frame building: Mini-Prints, Code Exempt Prints, and Engineered Prints. See your store for details.

Before the building is delivered make sure that your site is clear. Prepare the site so it is level 6' beyond the building on all sides. Remember to make sure there is enough room for the delivery truck to move around on your site. The bigger the building, the bigger the truck delivering the building will be.

Warning: If metal is not being used immediately, store panels and trim in a dry area out of the sun. See handling instructions on page 36 for more information.

Tip: If you plan to have a concrete floor now or at a later date please make sure the material list has been adjusted properly to accommodate this feature. By putting in a concrete floor into your building you may lose the thickness of the floor from your total interior height. Check for proper turning radius and clearance for overhead doors.

Items recommended for the construction of your post frame building:

• Mason line • Post Frame Building Hammer • Tape Measure • Hand Saw • Framing Square • Level • Chalk Line • Nail Apron • Metal Snips • Pencil • Chain Saw • Circular Saw • Drill • Mini-Print

All of the above items can be purchased at your local store.

5

Traditional Post Frame ConstructionString Line Building Dimensions • Locate and stake corners of the building. Grade should be level and free of obstructions. • Drive three stakes into the ground spaced about 6' apart and approximately 4' behind each building corner stake. • Nail batter boards to the outside of the stakes, approximately 12" above the grade. • Starting at corner #1, stretch a mason line directly over the top of the corner stakes for one side of the building. Finish stretching the mason line between the remaining corners to form the outline of the building. Check for proper dimensions, making adjustments as needed.

Approx. 4'

Approx. 4'

6'

6'

Diagon

al A

Diagonal B

Batter Boards

Call your local digger’s hotline to check for underground lines before digging.

Diagonal A =Diagonal B

Corner #1

Corner #2

Corner #3

Corner #4

Width

Length

Mason Line

6'8'

10'

Square the Building • Measure 6' from any corner along the sideline and make a mark. Measure 8' from the same corner along the end line and make a mark. The diagonal distance between the marks should be exactly 10'. If not, adjust a line at the corner to fit. Repeat this process at the next three corners. • To square mason lines, measure diagonally. To be squared, their measurements need to be the same. Adjust as necessary. Make sure your sidewall and end wall dimensions are correct.

6

Set and Plumb Corner PostsDig holes at least 4 feet deep, any less may compromise your strength for wind loads and frost protection.

Dig the corner holes first. Tamp the bottom of the hole to avoid settling. Place a concrete pad in the bottom of each hole.

Secure treated anchor blocks 1⁄8" from the bottom of each post with 10d, 3" nails on each side of the post. Repeat for all posts. These anchor blocks increase the building’s wind uplift rating.

Note: If treated anchor blocks are wider than the post, use the pattern in the diagram.

Follow your print for the correct post length.

Stand the corner post vertically in the hole so the longer width sets perpendicular to the sidewall and the shorter width runs parallel to the sidewall. I.E. for 4×6 post, the 4" dimension runs parallel and the 6" dimension runs perpendicular to the sidewall.

For buildings with bookshelf girts refer to page 24.

Fit the sides of the post into the corner of mason line layout, allowing room (1½") for girts between the mason line and the post for both the sidewall and end wall. The outside of the girts is the final dimension measurements for the building.

Keep checking to make sure the post is plumb and in line with the mason line. Nail a temporary 2" × 4" brace on the inside of the corner post near the top extending to stakes in the ground. Bracing should be applied in both the sidewall and end wall directions.

- Fill the hole with dirt and tamp solid.- Repeat this with all corner posts.

/LaminatedColumns

Thickness of Footing

Width

EmbedmentDepth - 4'Minimum

POST Treated

Anchor Blocks

Concrete Footing

Grade

Check for plumb with level on two sides. Corner

Post

1½"

1½"

1½"

Endwall Corner Post

Post

Anchor Blocks

Laminated columns are an alternative to solid treated posts that can reduce the material cost of taller or wider buildings while maintaining structural strength. These columns are rivet clinched, have 20 gauge steel reinforcing plates at the joints and can be engineered to up to 60’ in length. In-stock at plant columns are available from 16’-22’ in 3 ply 2x6 made from #1 grade Southern Yellow Pine.

Laminated Columns; A Stronger Choice

7

/Laminated ColumnsLocate Sidewall PostsTemporarily tack a 2" × 4" block on the end wall side of the corner post, approximately 1' up from grade. Measure to your particular spacing along mason line, stick a nail in the ground directly under the mason line. Continue down the sidewall in the same fashion. At each nail location, dig a hole on the inside of the string for the sidewall posts.

Jamb Posts (Door Posts)Note: For overhead doors the door width is measured from inside of post to inside of post. For sliding doors the door width is measured from center of post to center of post. See pages 16-23.

Measure to your particular spacing from the temporary 2"×4" block on the corner post to the closest edge of the first sidewall post. Set in pads and posts. Allow room for girts between the mason line and post. Make sure the post remains plumb.

Fill hole with dirt and tamp solid.

Measure to your particular spacing from far edge of the second post to the closest edge of the next post. Set in pad and post. Allow 1½" between the mason line and post. Make sure the post remains plumb.

Fill hole with dirt and tamp solid. Continue down the rest of the sidewall.

Repeat procedure starting from the same endwall, on the opposite side.

Endwall PostsUsing print specifications, extend endwall posts up to the top of the roofline.

In order for stability and safety in the construction process, posts on end walls should be set an equal distance apart and are not to exceed 10' on center. (Excluding door openings.)

Sidewall Post

Sidewall Post

Sidewall Post

Level

Level

2×4 Block on Endwall

Nail

Nail

Post Spacing

Post Spacing

Corner Post

Endwall Post

Endwall Post

Endwall Post

10' Max 10' MaxCL CL CL10' Max 10' Max

8 Girts

Endwall Column Blocking

GABLE TRIM ROOF PURLIN STEEL PANEL

2X6 BLOCKING NAILER

DEPTHVARIES

ENDFRAME

STEEL PANEL

BRACE SECURED TO COLUMN W/ 30d T.H.S. NAILS.

2X4 NAILER SECURED TO TRUSS W/ 30d T.H.S. NAILS

BRACE SECURED TO TRUSS W/ 30d T.H.S. NAILS.

2X6 NAILER SECURED TO PURLINS W/ 30d T.H.S. NAILS, ACROSS 6 PURLINS

LAMINATED COLUMN

2-PLY 2X6 ENDWALL BRACE

TRUSS

ENDWALL DETAIL

ADD 2X6 COLUMN BLOCKING

2X6 CENTER BLOCK SECURED TO COLUMN WITH 30d T.H.S. NAILS @ 8” O.C.

ADD 2X6 BLOCKING NAILER (1)-EACH SIDE

OF COLUMN BLOCKING

2X6 BLOCKING NAILER SECURED TO COLUMN BLOCKING WITH 30d T.H.S. NAILS @ 12” O.C. (EACH SIDE OF COLUMN BLOCKING)

REMOVE CENTER BLOCK ADD CENTER BLOCK NAILS @ 8” O.C.

ADD SIDE BLOCKING NAILERS NAILS @ 12” O.C.

STEP 1 STEP 2

ORIGINAL COLUMN

STEP 3

Additional Material Required to Make End Wall Column

Additional ColumnLength Needed

Left ply Center ply

2'4'

6'8'*

10'*

12'*

2'4'

6'8'

10'

12'

2' 1-10'

1-10' ,1-12'

2-8'

2-8' , 1-12'

2-10' , 1-14'

2-12' , 1-16'

4'

6'8'

10'

12'

6'8'

10'12'

14'

16'

8"

8"8"

8"

12"

12"

BEARING BLOCK TO BE REMOVED

Endwall Bracing Detail

Right Ply 2x6 needed

*End Wall Bracing Required. See End Wall Bracing detail below.

T.H.S.= Threaded Hardened SteelUse ringshank nails 230-1435

Custom built, full length columns are available, lead time may vary.

9

Install Grade BoardComposite Grade Board:1. Locate the corner post with the highest grade.

2. Place nail at post, setting building grade.

3. Establish a level line around the perimeter.

4. Place a nail in each post at the level line.

5. Install grade board to posts with 30d - 4½" ring shank nails on top of level line nail. Nails should be placed in the three built-in grooves extruded in composite grade board.

6. Keep boards flush with end of post to allow for corner cap to be applied. (Boards can also be mitered and butted together at ends.)

7. Remove grade nails once grade board is attached.

For proper spacing between boards see chart.

Treated Grade Board:1. Locate the corner post with the highest grade.

2. Place nail at post, setting building grade.

3. Establish a level line around the perimeter.

4. Place a nail in each post at the level line.

5. Install grade board to posts with 30d (4½" ring shank) nails on top of level line nails.

6. Remove grade nails once grade board is attached.

Note: Treated grade board may require plastic flashing.

Composite Grade Board Accessories:Outside Corner

Inside Corner

Endcap Connector Expansion Spacer

Sidewall Post

Plastic Flashing

Grade Nail

Grade Board

Nail at base of post where grade is highest

Sidewall Post

Sidewall Post

Nail at line level mark

Line Level

Mason Line

End Gap distancE for EvEry 16' of plankCurrentTemp 70 80 90 100 110 120 40 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 7/32" 1/4" 50 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 7/32" 60 1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 70 --- 1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 80 --- --- 1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 90 --- --- --- 1/32" 1/16" 3/32"

Maximum expected temperature

Grooves

10

Place Wall GirtsCut three 2x4 spacer blocks at correct size using girtchart below:

Note: Make any adjustments as necessary to girts to accommodate any special options such as eavelite and wainscot panels. See page 41 for details.

Rest the spacer blocks on top of the grade board, temporarily tack the blocks into place.

Rest a girt (two bays at once) on top of the spacer blocks and nail girts into place using 30d - 4½" ring shank nails.

Tip: Keep posts plumb while installing girts.

Remove the spacer block above the grade board and place spacer blocks on top of the first row of girts, and nail second row of girts into place on both sidewalls and end walls. Repeat.

Special Note: If you have a sidewall overhang: The overhang soffit nailer is not installed at the same time as the girts and should be installed when the overhangs are being framed. See page 28. Allow room for jamb material when placing girts on a jamb post. See door framing details page 16-17. Before installing the last girt, set all headers.

2×6 Girts Wall # Rows Spacer On Center Height of Girts Block Size Spacing 7' 2 25.5" 31.0" 8' 2 29.5" 35.0" 9' 3 23.5" 29.0" 10' 3 26.5" 32.0" 11' 3 29.5" 35.0" 12' 4 25.0" 30.5" 13' 4 27.5" 33.0" 14' 4 30.0" 35.5" 15' 5 26.0" 31.5" 16' 5 28.0" 33.5" 17' 5 30.0" 35.5" 18' 6 26.5" 32.0" 19' 7 28.5" 34.0" 20' 7 30.0" 35.5”

SidewallGirt

SpacerBlocksGradeboard

10d 3" Galvanized 75/lb.30d 4½" Galvanized 29/lb.60d 6" Oil Quenched 21/lb.Ring shanks for holding power.Hardened shank for easy application.

Bay

SpacerBlocks

30d - 4½" Ring Shank Nails

Gradeboard

Ring Shank NailsGalvanized for Long Life

Headers on Sidewalls for Openings or Overhead DoorsHeaders are to be installed under the truss for direct bearing.

Measure from the bottom of the grade board up each post to the height of your wall, put a mark.

Measure from the previous mark down the post, the depth of the header and place another mark. This will be your header bearing location.

See pages 16-17 for Sliding door header information.

Notch jamb posts for headers greater than 2-ply,or as needed. Install stub columns between plys at each truss to ply location.

Tip: Dimensional lumber is 1½" thick. LVL headers are 1¾" thick. Adjust header notches as needed.

11

2 Ply Header

3 Ply Header

4 Ply Header

Header

Truss

HeaderDepth

BuildingHeight

StubColumn

12

Truss LocationMeasuring from the bottom of the grade board up each post, the height of your wall, put a mark. This is where your truss bearing will be located. For example: If your wall height is 10' tall, the measurement from the bottom of your grade board to the bottom of the truss would be 10' (120").

Warning: If you are planning to have a concrete floor now or in the future make sure the material list has been adjusted properly for this particular feature. To maintain the interior clearance from the top of the finished floor to the bottom chord of the truss, the thickness of the slab will have to be added on to the height of the building.

Solid Posts

Warning: Do not notch corner posts or end wall posts.

Double check your measurements from bottom of grade board to the bottom of truss notch. It should be the same as the sidewall height.

Use a square to mark post for notching.

Notch Posts 1½" for single ply truss so entire truss can rest on notch.

Laminated ColumnsThe truss will sit in the saddle of the laminated column. The bearing block will need to be cut to the proper length and secured to column to bring the truss bearing height equal to the building’s wall height.

Mark for Truss Bearing

Sidewall Height

Bearing BlockSecured to column with 30d- 4½" ring shank nails.

Truss

Truss to Post connection

Saddle

Bearing Block- Field cut to proper length

Bottom of Gradeboard

1½"

13

Raising TrussesBefore raising trusses, mark the top edge of the truss for the proper purlin spacing, starting at the peak of the truss and move towards the eave. Place the mark for the bottom edge of the peak purlin. See diagram.

Note: Purlins will not exceed 24" O.C. for agricultural buildings. For engineeredbuildings please refer to Engineered Prints.

Raising the End FramesAt one end of the building, raise an end frame on the outside of the end wall posts. The bottom edge of the truss must align with the building height you marked on the post. The heel of the end frame should extend 1½" past the outside edge of the post. Nail the end frame to the corner post first, checking to be sure the corner post and endwall posts are plumb. Finish nailing the end frame to the endwall posts at each frame to post location.

Use 30d - 4½" ring shank nails to attach end frame to posts.

Note: Endwall posts shall be cut off just above top chord. Endwall Laminated columns are 3' nail free at the top for ease of cutting and shall be nailed together at jobsite after cut has been made.

Raising the main trussesTruss will rest directly on top of the notch in the post. Fasten starter purlins at approximately 8' apart using 60d - 6" ring shank nails to hold them in place. Starter purlins can be premarked for proper spacing. Use 30d - 4½" ring shank nails to attach trusses to posts.

Eave 24" 24"24"

24" 6" with 13" Ridgecap8" with 20" Ridgecap10" with RidgeLite

Peak Dimension

Endframe

Building Height

1½"

Endframe

Starter Purlin

Hang Truss past post 1½".

Truss Bearing Mark

14

Applying BracesKnee BracesAfter all trusses are raised and purlins are in place, use a mason line to see if both sidewalls are straight and plumb. After the wall is straight, secure 2×6 knee braces to posts using 30d - 4½" ring shank nails and the knee brace to truss using 10d - 3" ring shank nails.

Peak Purlins Butted Together

Inside Purlins are Over-lapped-Nail together

Edge Purlin

Knee Building Brace Brace Height Depth Length 8' 1' 6" 6' 9' 1' 6" 6' 10' 2' 0" 6' 11' 2' 0" 6' 12' 3' 0" 8' 13' 3' 0" 8' 14' 4' 0" 10' 15' 4' 0" 10' 16' 4' 0" 10' 17' 4' 0" 10' 18' 4' 0" 10' 19' 4' 0" 10' 20' 4' 0" 10'

Braces Secured to Bottom Chord

2×6 Knee Brace

Braces Secured to Column

3 Ply Laminated Column

Braces Secured to Post

Knee Brace Depth

Braces Secured to Top Chord

Note: Buildings with laminated columns, using a center notch, require 2 ply 2x6 knee braces.

Roof PurlinsUsing 60d - 6” ring shank nails, attach purlins to trusses.

For buildings with side wall overhangsfirst consult the side wall overhang details on page 28.

Nail all other purlins into place where you put the marks on the top edges of the trusses.

Peak purlins and edge purlins should be butted together, all the other roof purlins should be overlapped and nailed togetherat the trusses a minimum of 6".

For buildings with a sidewall overhang, do not install the edge purlin, and refer tosidewall overhang details on page 28.

Edge purlins can be nailed to the sidewall posts and must be in line with roof purlins.

6"

6"

15

Applying Braces ContinuedCorner Braces

The 2×6 corner braces are applied from the bottom of the first post to the top of the corner post.

Do this to all corners. Use 10d - 3" ring shank nails to secure brace at each girt to brace location.

Wind Braces

These 2×4 braces are installed under the roof purlins, angled from the first pole on the sidewall to the end trusses at a point approximately 2' from the peak.

After nailing both ends of the wind brace, nail to each purlin using 60d - 6" ring shank nails.

Buildings wider than 40' will require 2 or more bays of wind bracing.

Lateral Braces

These 2×4 braces are installed with 60d -6" ring shank nails to the tops of the bottom chords, approximately 10' on center across the bottom chords and designated webs of the trusses.

Lateral braces are to be placed at stamped locations on the truss. See the truss specification sheets for more information.

Corner Post

SidewallPost

SidewallPost

Endwall Post

End Frame

2×4 WindBrace

2×4 LateralBrace

Truss Bottom Chord

2×6 Corner Braces

16

Endwall and Sidewall Sliding Door Framing

Endwall Sidewall

On sidewall and/or endwall measure 5½" up from the bottom of the header at each jamb post.

Snap a chalk line from mark to mark across the header and/or 2×12.

2×6 track board is placed so the top edge is flush with the chalk line, starting from the center of post jamb to center of the other post jamb, secured with 10d 3" nails.

2×4 track board is placed so the top of a 2×4 is flush with the line extending from the center of the post jamb to end of the door in its open position secured with 10d 3" nails.

Note: For sliding doors on end walls the 2×4 track board shall extend from end to end.

Note: Track board shall stop 45⁄16" from the corner to allow for corner trim.

2×4 door jambs are cut to fit between girt rows and secured flush to the inside face of the post at the door opening secured with 10d 3" nails.

2×4 treated door runner, for Kwik Frame doors only, is placed so the bottom of the door runner is flush with the bottom of the grade board to the side which the door is to open. Door track is screwed to the top of the 2×4/2×6 track boards. The top of the door runner is flush with the steel rise. The door track should start at the jamb post and run a distance equal to ¾ of the door opening on each side of the jamb post.

For Endwall: Use the 2×8 bottom chord of the end frame as the header for the door

For Sidewall: A 1 ply 2×12 door track support board is placed to the side in which the door opens.

Chalkline5½" up

Chalkline5½" up

2×8 Bottom Chordof End Frame

2×12 Door Track Support Header

Jamb Posts with 2×4 door jambs cut to fit and secured between girts

Door opening

Jamb Posts with 2×4 door jambs cut to fit and secured between girts

Door opening

Chalkline

Track BoardSupport

Truss

Jamb Post

5½"

ChalklineTrack Board

Support

Corner Post

Track Board

EndTruss

45⁄16"

5½"

2×4 Track Board 2×6 Track Board

2×8 Bottom Chord or 2×12 Track Board Suppport

Jamb Post

Door Opening

17

Sliding Door Framing2×4 Stop

Block

2×4 Stop Block

5½"

Door Track Cover

¼ Door Width

¼ Door Width

¼ Door Width

¾ Door Width

¾ Door Width

Track board support

Track cover support bracket

Chalkline

Headers

2×4 Door Jamb

2×4 Track Board

2×6 Track Board

To Open Door

Door Shown Closed

Door Track

Track Board

Support

2×4/2×6 Track Board

Track

Track BoardSupport

Sliding Door Track

2×4 Stop Block

Track Cover

Support Bracket

TrussPost

Post

2×4 stop blocks are placed at the ends of the door track to help keep the door from sliding off the track.

Track Cover Support Brackets are nailed to the top of the track board to secure the track cover where there is no sliding door track.

Track Cover is placed on top of the door track and track brackets and nailed on the vertical lip above the door track.

Optional Special Order Track board trims are available to cover any exposed wood on a sliding door. See page 19.

Split Slider on Side Wall

Same steps as listed above except place a 2×12 on each side of the door opening.

DOOR JAMB TRIM

18

Sliding Door Accessories

STEEL DOOR CENTER GUIDE

SINGLE DOOR STOP

SLIDING DOOR JAMB STOP

UniversalCENTER LATCH

DOOR TRACK

ADJUSTABLE DOOR STOP

HEAVY DUTY DOOR HANDLE

SLIDING DOOR LATCH

• Used on a steel frame sliding door.• Stops door in open position.

• Installed back to back.• Used on all steel frame doors.• Meets bottom door lateral in open and closed positions holding door firmly against the building.• 2 required per door, 2 per sku

• Stops and holds all steel frame sliding doors in both open and closed positions.

STAY ROLLER

Kwik Frame Wood

Tabloc Steel

WOOD DOOR CENTER GUIDE

• Slots in frame provide adjustment for holding sliding doors.• Extra-Heavy wheel.

• Floor mounted, adjustable for single and double sliding doors.• Heavy duty shock resistant design.

• Holds split sliding doors tightly secure.

• Galvanized for long life.• 6" Heavy duty handle.

• Cam action latch holds door firmly against the jamb.• Includes 7" hook, and latch.

• Adjustable for door thickness 2½" to 3¹/8".• Used on single or split sliding doors.

• 16 Gauge galvanized steel with mounting/flashing brackets for mounting on 2×6 track board.• Used for doors weighing up to 400 lbs. 8'-20' in 2' increments; Stock/SO

2¼" 1¾"

19

Optional Sliding Door Trim

Track Cover Support

DOUBLE TRACK COVER

DOOR LATERALS

DOUBLE TRACK BRACKET ¾"

5¾"

2¾"

2½"

2¼" Minimum3¼" Maximum

41⁄8"

115⁄16"

7⁄16"Holes

TRACK COVER SUPPORT BRACKET

SINGLE TRACKBOARD

DOUBLETRACKBOARD

SLIDING DOORTRACK COVER

OVERDOOR TRACKBOARD

20

Sliding Door Components

Door Widths Brackets 3' up to 6' 2 6' up to 16' 3 16' up to 20' 4

Door Laterals Spacing of Height Required Laterals 7' 4 27" 8' 4 32" 9' 4 36" 10' 5 30" 11' 5 32" 12' 5 36" 13' 6 30" 14' 6 34" 15' 6 36" 16' 7 32" 17' 7 34" 18' 8 30'' 19' 9 28" 20' 9 30"

STEEL DOOR LATERALS

STEEL DOOR VERTICALS

GUIDE RAIL

GUIDE RAIL BRACKET

DoorTrack

Track CoverTrolley Hanger

2×8 or Larger

2×6

End view of door at bottom.

Steel Door Lateral

2×6 Treated or Larger

GUIDE RAIL

GUIDE RAIL BRACKET

781

382 3

41121

278

58

38

12

1

STEEL DOOR

LATERAL781

382 3

41121

278

58

38

12

1Note: We recommend tabloc stiffeners for 16' wide or tall for added rigidity.• Fast, simple, strong assembly• Tabloc design• Galvanized for long life

• Steel roller bearing for long life.• Can be used on wood or steel frame sliding doors.• Threaded adjustment both vertically & laterally.

STEEL BEARING TROLLEY HANGERS

STAPTROLLEY HANGERS• Can be used on wood frame sliding doors.• Threaded adjustment vertically.• Slotted adjustment laterally.• Designed for horizontal mounting to the door.

Steel door verticals are part of the Tab-Loc sliding door system.Used with door laterals to make sliding doors. Galvanized for long life, tab system makes assembly a snap.

STEEL DOOR

VERTICAL

21

Step 4 Step 5 Step 7

Tab-Loc Sliding Door Assembly1. Important! Check opening size prior to assembling. If vertical members need to be shortened, it must be done at this time. Verticals may be shortened to almost any desired length.2. Select level assembly area with clearance to turn door and lay out members.3. Align the vertical tabs with the lateral member cutouts keeping the open channel of door laterals towards bottom of door. Install Tab-Loc stiffeners if needed.4. With laterals and verticals in place, bend tabs loosely.5. After assembling loosely, bend tabs to tight position, working from center lateral toward top and bottom of door.6. Square door frame.7. Pry tab in final lock position with a screwdriver. This aligns all members and holds frame square.8. Turn door frame over and repeat steps 4 - 7.9. After completely assembling door frame, fasten panels to frame.

Installation of Trolley Hangers • Trolley hangers to be located at the top of the door. • For placement of the trolleys divide the door width by 4 and this will equal the trolley inset from each side of the door. • Drill a 9⁄16" hole in the top of the top steel door lateral at the trolley inset if it falls where there is no predrilled hole. • Insert trolley drop bolt through 9⁄16" hole in top lateral. • Adjust flange nut to provide 1" between top door lateral and bottom of the door track. • Hang door - make vertical adjustments with flange nut and tighten lock nut. • To adjust door in and out, turn the lateral adjustment bolt with a wrench to obtain desired clearance.

Installation of Guide Rail BracketsAttach guide rail brackets to guide rail loosely with 3⁄8" × ¾" bolts. One bracket and one bolt is furnished for each hole in guide rail. Align end of guide rail with inside of door opening. Important! To prevent the wind from lifting doors away from the building, fasten guide rail brackets to the gradeboard with 5⁄16" carriage bolts or 3⁄8" lags. Do not use Nails. Hold the bottom of guide rail approximately 1¼" below the bottom of the door.

Make adjustments so doors operate properly. Tighten all fasteners to secure brackets and guide rail in its final position.

Tips: Continuous guide rail engages bottom lateral of door and guides the door along building keeping it secure and away from the siding. Slotted holes in guide rail bracket allow lateral and vertical adjustments.To adjust door in and out, turn the lateral adjustment bolt with wrench to obtain desired clearance.

Bottom Chord of End Frame(For endwall applications)2×12 Header(For sidewall applications)

Door-Track

2×6 Track BoardTrolley Hanger

Top Steel LateralFlange Nut

Lock Nut

End view of door at bottom

Steel Door

Vertical

Guide RailGuide Rail Bracket

Steel Door

Lateral

Grade Board

Grade

22

Kwik Frame Sliding Door Assembly

Use a standard 2" × 6" for the top girt and a treated 2" × 6" for the bottom girt. Cut those 6" longer than the door opening. Remaining door girts should be cut ½" shorter than top and bottom girts.

Lay Kwik Frame verticals on a flat surface and nail top and bottom girts horizontally to frames. The bottom girt should extend 2" below the end of the Kwik Frame. Girts should be spaced the same as the other sidewall girts, measuring from the top down.

Installation of trolley hangers. • For placement of the trolleys divide the door width by 4 and add 3". This will equal the trolley inset from each side of the door. • Drill a 9⁄16" hole in the top of the 2" × 6" top girt for the trolley inset.

KWIK FRAME

DOUBLE COUPLE

• Serves as the side frames for sliding doors. • Designed as a receiver for 2 × material. • Built in J-Trim for self-flashing.

• Eliminates gap between split sliding doors. • Built in Astragal to seal a double/split door system. • Designed as a receiver for 2 × material. • Built in J-Trim for self-flashing.

2×4 or 2×6 Lateral

2×4 or 2×6 Lateral

1-¾"

1-½"

1-½"

2"

Trolley Inset Trolley Inset2×6 Top Girt

2×6 Door Girt

2×6 Door Girt

2×6 Door Girt

2×6 Treated Girt Bottom

Hang the door in the track and square with the door opening. Lift door up 1" so weight is taken off the hangers. Nail temporarily on bottom corners making sure the door is plumb.

Apply door steel keeping each sheet flush with the top girt. After all steel is applied, remove temporary nails from bottom corners.

• Insert trolley drop bolt through 9⁄16" hole in top door girt. • Adjust flange nut to provide 1" space between top girt on the door and bottom of door track. • Hanging the door - make vertical adjustments with flange nut and tighten lock nut. • To adjust door in and out, turn the lateral adjustment bolt with a wrench to obtain desired clearance.

Temporary Nail

1" Rise

Bottom Chord of End Frame(For endwall applications)2×12 Header(For sidewall applications)

Door Track

2×6 Track BoardTrolley Hanger

2×6 Top GirtLateral Adjustment Bolt

Flange NutLock Nut

Tip: For best results the L-8 is installed before the wall steel. The J-Trim and Hem Trim are installed after the steel is up. Do not fasten the steel panels around the opening until the J-Trim and Hem Trim are in place.

If the door is located on the sidewall and the height of the door is 1' less than the sidewall height, then the header will be used as the nailing surface of the trim instead of the 2"×6" headers.

Warning: For buildings with concrete floors the height of the opening needs to be adjusted to accommodate the thickness of the concrete floor and the turning radius of an overhead door.

Note: 2"×6" door mounting board to be adjusted asnecessary for the type of overhead door selected.

23

ENDWALL

End FrameTreated Post

Torsion Spring

J-Trim

J-Trim

L-8 Trim

WeatherSeal

Overhead Door

Door Track

Pin and Mounting Bracket

Door Path

Roller

Door Mounting Board

2 Ply Door Frame-Out

Pro-Rib Steel Panel

SIDEWALL

Roof Purlin

Roof Purlin

Edge Purlin

Eave Trim

Treated Post

Torsion Spring

L-8 TrimWeatherSeal

Overhead Door

Door Track

Pin and Mounting Bracket

Truss

Door Path

Roller

2 Ply Door Header

2 Ply Door Frame-Out

Pro-Rib Steel Panel

Pro-Rib Steel Panel

12" Minimum

12" Minimum

L-8 FASCIA HEM TRIML-8 DOOR

Overhead Door FramingOverhead Door on a SidewallOverhead door 2"×6" frame outs are to be placed so the bottom of the frame outs to the top of the finished floor is the height required for the door.

Door jambs - Outside jamb is typically a 2"×4". Inside jamb is typically a 2"×4" or 2"×6" depending on the door size. See trim detail for more information.

24

Bookshelf Post Frame ConstructionFollow the same steps for Traditional Post Frame Construction from Page 6 to Page 7; Except, the sidewall posts DO NOT require 1½" between the post and the mason line when plumbing the posts.

Check for plumb with level

on two sides. Corner Post

1½"1½"Endwall Corner Post

Sidewall Bookshelf

Gradeboard to be Installed between posts Gradeboard

Install Grade Board1. Locate the corner post with the highest grade.

2. Place a nail in the post at the grade at the corner post on the sidewall and on the outside of the end wall to set the grade of the building.

3. Use a line level or transit to establish a level line where the nails are located.

4. Install grade board keeping the bottom of the gradeboard on top of the nails securing with 30d - 4½" ring shank nails at each post location. Toe-nail when on sidewall.

5. Once all the grade boards are in place, remove grade nails.

Note: Treated gradeboard may require plastic flashing.

For Bookshelf Girt styled building, sidewall grade boards are placed between the columns and end wall grade boards are placed on the outside of the columns.

BOOKSHELF GIRT AND GRADE BOARD ON

SIDEWALL APPLICATION

BOOKSHELF GIRT AND GRADE BOARD ON

END WALL APPLICATION

Pro-Rib Steel Panel

Pro-Rib Steel Panel

Sidewall Post

Sidewall Post

Treated InteriorGrade Board

Treated InteriorGrade BoardTreated

Grade Board

2x6 TreatedBookshelf Girt

2x6 TreatedBookshelf Girt

TreatedGrade Board

Girt

25

Bookshelf GirtsNote: Make any adjustments as necessary to girts to accommodate special options such as eavelite and wainscot panels. See page 41 for details.

Cut 2 spacer blocks 22½"in length. The Girt chart shows how many rows of girts areneeded depending on yourwall height.

Rest the spacer blocks on the grade board and temporar-ily tack into place between the posts. Rest a girt on top of the spacer block and toenail girts into place using 30d - 4½" ring shank nails.

Tip: Keep posts plumb while installing girts.

Remove the spacer block above the grade board and place spacer blocks on top of the first row of girts, and nail second row of girts into place on both sidewalls and end walls. Repeat.

Special Note: If you have a sidewall overhang: The overhang soffit nailer is not installed at the same time as the girts and should be installed when the overhangs are being framed. See page 28. Allow room for jamb material when placing girts on a jamb post. See door framing details pages 16-17. Before installing the last girt set all headers.

22½"Space

Gradeboard 1st Row of Sidewall Girts

2nd Row of Sidewall Girts

22½"Space

Gradeboard1st Row of

Sidewall Girts

2nd Row of

Sidewall Girts

Bookshelf buildings’ sidewall headers get notched into columns, and are flush with the inside and outside face.

Header

2×6Girts # Rows of Girts 7' 3 8' 3 9' 4 10' 4 11' 5 12' 5 13' 6 14' 6 15' 7 16' 7 17' 8 18' 8 19' 9 20' 9

WallHeight

26

Truss LocationTo mark the bearing block height, measure the wall height from the bottom of the grade board and mark onto the bearing block.

For example: If your wall height is 10' tall, the measurement from the bottom of your grade board to the bottom of the truss would be 10' (120").

Warning: If you are planning to have a concrete floor now or in the future make sure the material list has been adjusted properly for this particular feature. To maintain the interior clearance from the top of the finished floor to the bottom chord of the truss, the thickness of the slab will have to be added on to the height of the building.

Post NotchWarning: Do not notch corner posts or endwall posts.

Solid Posts - Double check your measurements from bottom of grade board to the bottom of truss notch. It should be the same as the sidewall height.

Use a square to mark post for notching.

Trusses will sit in notch and may not extend beyond post.

Laminated ColumnsThe truss will sit in the saddle of the laminated column. The bearing block will need to be cut to the proper length and secured to column to bring the truss bearing height equal to the buildings wall height.

Bookshelf Truss Placement

Bearing Block secured to column with 30d-4½" ring shank nails

TrussTruss placed into column

Field cut exterior plies of laminated column 3" above top of truss. This will allow nailing area for edge purlin or overhang jack.

Bearing Block- Field cut to proper length

Building height measured

from bottom of gradeboard to bottom of truss

Hang truss flush with post

Corner Post

End Truss

Mark truss bearingwith square

Gradeboard

Building Height

27

Bookshelf Trusses, Purlins, and Braces

Edge Purlin PlacementINSTALL OVERHANG JACKS FIRST. SEE PAGE 28. Notch posts if necessary, but do not notch truss. Secure edge purlins on top of trusses and flush with outside of posts.

Corner Brace PlacementCorner braces are notched into the girts on bookshelf buildings.

Eave 24" 24"24"

24"

Edge purlins to be secured on top of

truss and flush with outside of post.

Edge Purlin

outside of the end wall posts. The bottom edge of the truss must align with the building height you marked on the post. The heel of the end frame should be flush with the outside edge of the post. Nail the end frame to the corner post first, checking to be sure the corner post and endwall posts are plumb. Finish nailing the end frame to the endwall posts at each frame to post location.

Use 30d - 4½" ring shank nails to attach end frame to posts.

2×6 Corner brace secured at each end and each brace to girt

Note: Number of wall girts on this detail may not apply to your building. Corner brace shall extend from grade

board at first sidewall post to top corner post at truss.

End Truss

End Frame Truss

Corner Post

Corner Post

Sidewall Post

6" with 13" Ridgecap8" with 20" Ridgecap10" with RidgeLite

Peak Dimension

Raising TrussesBefore raising trusses, mark the top edge of the truss for the proper purlin spacing, starting at the peak of the truss and move towards the eave. Place the mark for the bottom edge of the peak purlin. See diagram.Note: Purlins will not exceed 24" O.C. for agricultural buildings. For engineeredbuildings please refer to Engineered Prints.

Raising the End FramesAt one end of the building, raise an end frame on the

28

Sidewall Overhang

Endwall Overhang

Note: Don’t install edge purlins at this time.

First install overhang jacks on your end frames. The distance of the overhang is measured from the outside edge of the girt less 1½" to the end of the overhang jack.

With your jacks on your end frames, run a mason line from end overhang jack to end overhang jack along the sidewall. Then install overhang jacks on trusses, making sure the ends of overhang jacks are flush with mason line. When all of your jacks are in place install your 2"×4" soffit nailer and fascia board.

For endwall overhang, extend the purlins past end frame, 1-½" less than the desired overhang. Attach fascia board. Install small J-trim with frieze as shown. Install boxed end fascia after installing roof steel. Install the soffit.

Roof PurlinRoof Steel

Truss

Sidewall SteelSidewall Post

Overhang Jack

Overhang length less

1½"

FasciaBoard

FasciaTrim

Soffit Panel

Inside Closure Strip

Sidewall Steel2x4 Soffit Nailer

SoffitSmall J-Trim with Frieze

Note: Do not notch truss to install soffit nailer.Soffit nailer to be secured between trusses.

Overhang length less 1-½"

Small J-Trim with Frieze

BoxedEnd Fascia

2×4Fascia Board

Endwall Steel

Truss End Frame

Roof Purlin

Roof Steel

Corner Post

Soffit

BOXEDENDFASCIA

Soffit

J-Trim with FriezeSmall

Sidewall Steel2x4 Soffit Nailer

Soffit

Truss

Small J-Trim with Frieze

Bookshelf Sidewall Overhang

Sidewall Post

Truss

29

Gives quick, clean, easy cut

155-8659

155-8630

Trims

L-4 FASCIA

Soffit NailSteel Soffit Panel

Frieze Starter

Fascia Trim

1¼" SOFFITNAILS

All Colors Available

• Covers 2x4 Fascia board on Eave• Supports Soffit

SOFFIT PANELS

VENTED

SOLIDPrecut Sizes

SOFFIT SHEAR

PANEL SHEAR

FRIEZE STARTER

FASCIA CAP

CORNER & GABLE

TRIMEAVE TRIM

30

Post Frame WindowsInstall window unit before steel is applied. For best results, the side of the window should be located between the ribs of the steel.

Frame out openings as shown. For traditional window framing, cut out girts between vertical 2×4’s last.

Insert the window into the frame-out and fasten it in place from the outside.

• Built in J Channel on screen units.• Frame and Sash are completely weather stripped with woven pile.• A durable baked enamel finish is standard, and is available in white or brown.• Shipped ready to install.• Center mullion for a sturdier window.• Nylon track for an easy sliding sash.

NOTE: Windows with built in J Channel are flashed in white or brown. Windows with no J flashing allow you to order color matched J-Trim to flash around window.

Bookshelf Window Framing

Traditional Window Framing

Built in “J” channel

31

Service DoorsDoor units should be installed before the steel is applied. For best results, the side of the door should be located be-tween the ribs of the steel.1. Nail (2) 2×4 vertical nailer onto the inside of the girts (R.O. width +3").

2. Nail a 2×4 horizontal nailer onto the outside of the vertical nailer (R.O. height+1½").3. Cut out girts between verti-cal nailer.4. Nail a 2×4 horizontal jamb to the bottom of the horizontal nailer.

5. Nail 2×4 vertical jambs to insides of the vertical nailer.6. Add 2×4 spacer blocks, cut to fit, between girts.Insert the door into the frame-out and fasten it in place from the outside.

Traditional Door Framing

Bookshelf Door Framing

DOUBLE ANGLE TRIM

DRIP CAP

32

Prehung in jambLow maintenanceBaked on enamel finishR-10 insulation factorSelf flash J-trim side panelEase of installationUniversal swingInswing or outswingAttractive textured door panelBored for lockset - lockset not includedCustom door sizes available special order.

Baked on enamel finishR-16 insulation factorHeavy duty 16 gauge galvanized steel frame jambs24 gauge smooth steel panelsCode approved ½" low profile threshold Thermopane nine-lite windowBored for lockset - lockset not includedCustom door sizes available special order

Service Doors - Continued

36"×80" RO 405⁄16"×811⁄8"Commercial Grade Service Door

White 9 lite with crossbuck

White blank

36"×80" RO 381⁄16"×8015⁄16"Post Frame Service Door

White or brown with 22"×36" lite

White or brown blank

HEM TRIM

J-TRIM

33

Service Doors - Continued

1. Place the door on saw horses with the hinge knuckles up.

2. After removing the retaining clip and frame spacers, open the door.

3. Remove the nine hinge screw from the door panel.

4. Lift and turn the panel end for end. Do not move the frame.

5. Flip the panel over to re-attach the hinges.

6. Install the nine hinge screw which were removed in step 3.

Install the parting stop at the top of the door frame. Install the sweep at the bottom of the door panel.

8. Close the door panel back into the frame and replace frame spacers.

Door units should be installed before the steel is applied. For best results, the side of the door should be located between the ribs of the steel.

1. Nail (2) 2x4 vertical nailer onto the inside of the girts (RO width +3”).2. Nail a 2x4 horizontal nailer onto the outside of the vertical nailer (RO height +1-1/2”).3. Cut out girts between vertical nailer.4. Nail a 2x4 horizontal jamb to the bottom of the horizontal nailer.

5. Nail 2x4 vertical jambs to insides of the vertical nailer.6. Add 2x4 spacer blocks, cut to fit, between girts.7. Insert the door into the frame-out and fasten it in place from the outside.

NOTE: Doors without lites may be rotated and turned to achieve the desired swing without removing the frame.

NOTE: If 2x4 framing is not followed or the door is not installed for inswing application, additional trim may be required.

1.

3.

4.

6.

5.

7.

1. 5.

6.

7.

2.

3.

4.

2.

Hinge Reversing Procedure forPrehung 4-Way Doors with Factory Installed Window

Service Door Installation

www.midwestmanufacturing.com

2x4 Spacer Blocks

Vertical Nailer

Horizontal Nailer

Rough Opening

RoughOpening

Girt

Girt

Treated Post

2x4 Vertical Jamb

TOP VIEW FRONT VIEW

34

Dutch Doors

Traditional Dutch Door Framing

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Dutch Doors are much heavier than typical service doors so 4x6 posts or larger are required.

Open the boxes and place the door halves on the floor wih the fronts facing up. Place the hinges over the holes in the door halves. Drill through the wood using the holes in the hinge side as guides. Insert bolts into the holes. Make sure that the hinges are level and then fasten using a washer and nut.

Place the bottom half of the door into the door jamb. Make sure the door is level and there is a ½" gap from the bottom of the door to the floor. When the door is level, place the hinges on the door jamb. Use the holes on the hinges as a guide for pre-drilling. After pre-drilling the holes insert the screws and fasten.

Place the top half of the door on top of the lower half. Make sure the door is level and ¼" above the bottom half of the door. When the top half is in place, put the hinges on the door jamb as a guide for pre-drilling. When the holes are completed insert the screws and fasten.

Predrill holes and insert screws

Predrill holes and insert screws

Predrill holes and insert screws

Door Jamb

Door Jamb

½"

¼"

Dutch Door RO 49¼" × 87 3⁄8"

Dutch Door with Crossbuck 156-8282 Optional Dutch Door Jamb Frame 156-8284

Dutch Doors - Continued

Bookshelf Dutch Door Framing

Step 4 Step 5 Step 6Place the astragal between the two halves of the door with the double sided edge to the front. Keep it flush with the front of the bottom half of the door. Hold it in place and open the top half of the door. Pre-drill holes and fasten it in place.

Place the barn latch on the bottom door as shown. Use the latch holes for a guide when pre-drilling the holes for the latch. Make sure the latch is level when fastening. Use the supplied plastic caps to plug the remaining holes in the door.

Place the bolt latch on the back of the door. Place the receiving end on the bottom half of the door. Make sure that the latch is level and the crack between the door halves lines up with the separation of the latch. Use the holes of the latch as guides for pre-drilling the holes and fasten in place.

Door Latch Bolt Latch

Top Half

Astragal

Bottom Half

Top Half

Astragal

Bottom Half

View of Back of the Door

BoltLatch

Back side of door

35

Backside of the door

16 gauge one piece perimeter door with crossbuck. Available in all colors.Backer panels available in all colors.

36

Storing, Handling, and Cutting Steel PanelsStoring• Specifically check your quantities, colors, and lengths• All materials should be used as soon as possible• Steel bundles should be stored indoors with enough of a slope to allow any moisture from condensation to drain out of the bundle• Bare galvanized panels should be installed immediately and not be stored outside• Condensation or rain water trapped on bare galvanized panels can form a wet storage stain, also known as white rust.

Handling• Do not slide steel panels across each other.• To properly lift a panel from the bundle place hands underneath the under lap side of the panel and lift up and away from the bundle.• Lifting steel onto roof or building grab the panel in the flat of the panel and not in the rib.• Bending steel is best done with a hand seamer or a brake press.

Scratches• A scratch in the panel may only cause rust if it is deep enough to cut through the paint and zinc coat.• Color-matched touch-up paint is available if you happen to scratch a panel.• Perfect for scratches and nicks• Beveled brush great for tiny spots or thin lines.• Color matched spray paint available for accessories• 25 colors: 1 oz 156-7869

Cutting Panels

Nibbler TinSnips

Shears

Panel Shears

Touch-Up Paint

Color Matched Spray can

Do not use a circular saw to cut steel panels.

Cutting steel is best done with a panel shear, tin snips, nibblers, or panel shears.Cut edge does not require paint touch up.

37

Steel Panel Installation:

Screwing of Steel Panels Roof Sheets -Use 2" Woodgrip screws on rib top or 1" screws in the flat. Peak & Eave of roof sheets -Use 1" Woodgrip screws installed in the flat surface Wall sheets -Use 1" Woodgrip screws installed in the flat surface

Note: Screw lengths may need to be adjusted.

Note: If an alternative fastening method is used, then the material list may have to be altered for proper fastener lengths.

Proper lapping of steel panel is very important in the panel’s ability to prevent leaking.

The anti-syphon drain channel must be clear of debris and obstructons for the panel’s ability to minimize the potential of capillary action of water from getting under the steel panel.

Fastener tightness is critical in the longevity of the fastener’s ability to help prevent leaks and structural load carrying capacity. Over-torquing of screws will reduce the screw’s withdrawal capacity, regardless of the construction materials involved. Under-torquing of screws will increase the potential of roof leaks.

Fastener location is critical for installers to minimize the potential of oil canning, dimples, and other appearance related issues.

Note: Both professional and first time installers have fewer problems with oil canning, dimples, and other appearance related fastener seating problems if they install them on top of the rib.Fastener Specifications: Roof: Nails must be installed on top of the rib. Screws can be installed on top of the rib or in the flat surface of the panel between the ribs. Wall: Nails or screws can be installed on top of the rib or in the flat surface between ribs.

Nailing of Steel Panels Roof Sheets -Use 2½" E-Z Seal nails installed on top of the rib. Top & Bottom of wall sheets -Use 1½" Neoprene nails installed in the flat surface Wall sheets -Use 2½" E-Z Seal nails installed on top of the rib

UndertightProper Fastener Tightness

OvertightProper

UnderseatProper lapping of Steel OverseatProper

Overlap

38

Hanging Sidewall SteelNote: Optional Bottom Trim May be installed at this time.

Note: Positioning of the first panel is critical. The first panel installed establishes the alignment and layout of the entire wall. It is very important that the first panel is accurately positioned and squared before fastening it in place.

Tip: When laying out the steel panel have the overlap side of the panel away from the main line of sight.Tip: You may want to start at a corner away from the prevailing wind.

Cut the first rib off leaving ¼" of rib on the first sheet of side steel (Fig. 1). Position the first panel so it is square in the corner. Make sure the first sheet of sidewall steel is level and the top of the sheet is even with the top edge of the edge purlin. This should leave approximately 3" of grade board exposed at the bottom.

Using 1½" washer nails or 1" screws, secure the top and bottom of the steel panel at the lap next to the rib, to assure proper lap and seating of the steel panel. Securing the panel in this manner will assure all laps to be seated and will not allow the steel to grow or stretch as you are running it. Once all the panels are in place and secure only at the lap, snap a chalk line at each mid-girt location and finish fastening the wall. At the top and bottom of the panels use 1½" fasteners on both sides of each rib, for the length of the building.

Note: Do not put fasteners on the rib at the top and bottom of the panel. Doing this may crush the end of the panel.

Hanging Endwall SteelEndwall panels are fastened in the samemanner as the sidewall panels. The only difference is the gable sheets are always started from the middle of the building and run towards the corners. The panels should be measured and the gable angle cut off of the top before installing the panels.

¼"

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

SteelPanel

CompositeGradeBoard

Grade

Post

Start

BOTTOM TRIM

39

Installing Roof SteelNote: Install optional Eave Trim before roof steel is installed.

Note: Install optional inside closure strips before placing each roof panel. Be careful not to stretch the closure strips.

Nail a temporary 2×4 block on the outside of each end trussextending 4" to 6" beyond the heel of the truss on both ends.The length that you extend the 2×4 will determine the overhang length.

Run a mason line the full length of the building between these blocks. This mason line determines the length of the eave.

Cut the first rib off leaving ¼" of rib on the first roof sheet of roof steel. Lay down the first roof steel panel, squaring it with the mason line. The roof panels are installed similar to the wall panels in layout.

Using washer nails or screws, fasten roof at top and bottom of the sheet in the flat next to each rib. All intermediate fasteners can be put on the rib or in the flat when using screws; on the rib only when using nails.

Corner and Gable TrimCorner trim: Level the face of the trim with one side holding it up tight to the roof steel. Fasten into place when level.

Gable trim: When applying the gable trim, make sure the top side of the trim is in line with the roof and the side of the gable trim is in line with the end wall.

Fasten the top part to every purlin and the bottom part to the ribs on the end wall steel.

DesiredSteelOverhang

Temporary 2×4

Nail

EndTruss Edge

Purlin

MasonLine

InsideClosure Strip

Edge Purlin

CORNER & GABLE

TRIMEAVE TRIM

40

Skylites

Clear Polycarbonate

Roof Steel• Same configuration as Pro-Rib® panels.• 20 Times Stronger than 5 oz. fiberglass• Highest light transmission• Class “A” Fire Rating• 10 Year Limited Warranty

Mastic sealants help

provide a weatherproofseal and stop water from

siphoning between sheets.

• Polycarbonate• 36" coverage 3' 155-8739 4' 155-8742 7' 155-8755 9' 155-8769 11' 155-8771

Pro-Sky® Ridgecap

Pro-Sky® Ridgecap is a translucent polycarbonate cover. This

cover has 100% light transmittance.

Snow Retention

Lap skylite over roof steel minimum of 12"

Skylite PanelPeak Purlin

Roof Purlin

Truss

Outside Closure Strip

Universal Ridgecap

Clear as Glass

Strong as Steel

Crystal clear Polycarbonate with UV stabilizersAdded strength due to a three to one base to blade ratioProvides maximum protection against roof avalanches and ice damage to gutters, plants, cars and pedestrian walkways.Dimensions: 3½" wide × 6" long × 2½" highSnow Jacks are located in the flat between the ribs located approximately 1'-2' up from the eave on the roof. Every other Jack should be staggered for maximum effectiveness. The number of pieces and spacing will vary depending on building width.

SNOW JACK

UNIVERSAL SNOW BAR

41

WainscotLower decorative panel, usuallya contrasting color from main building and matches trim

EaveliteTranslucent panel placed atthe eaves

TrussEdge Purlin

Roof Steel Panel

Wall Steel Panel

Sidewall Steel Panel

Grade Board

EaveliteLength

WainscotLength

EavelitePanel

SteelWainscotPanel

Eavelite Panels over 36" require a 2×4 placed between eavelite nailer and edge purlin.

Wainscot Panels over 36" require a 2×4 placed between wainscot nailer and grade board.

Treated Post

Treated Post

2×6 Eavelite nailer

2x6 Wainscot nailer

D-2 Trim

D-2 Trim

42

Post Covers

You Design it.We bend it.

Go to: midwestmanufacturing.com

for details.

PRO-ANCHORPRO-ANCHORTM

Professional engineered anchor Economical Powder coated finish Cutting edge technologyFlexible - Wet set or drill set Lightweight, quick, and easy to installDesigned specifically for post frame buildings Brackets4x6 Post .............. 110-49706x6 Post ..............110-49823 Ply 2x6 .............. 110-49744 Ply 2x6 .............. 110-4978

6" L-Bracket.........110-49963 Ply 2x8 ..............110-49864 Ply 2x8 ..............110-49908" L-Bracket.........110-5000

Hardware included with bracket for drill set application

6"Series

8" Series8"Universal

6"Universal

13"

18"

½" ½"

½" ½"

5/8" 5/8"

5/8"5/8"

5/16" 5/16"

5/16"5/16"

18"

13"

5"5"

7" 7"

3½" 3½"

3½" 3½"

Easily installed on new or existing buildingsExterior or interior useComes in 2 halves for easy installationGives a professional clean finished lookAffordable one time fix

MEASURE,CUT,

FASTEN

Midwest offers coil stock in all 25 colors. This steel is not roll formed and thus will have no ribs. All trim coil stock is .018 inches nominal thickness after painting.

43

Interior Liner Panel

Dura-Panel™ Offers:• Significantly more durable than waferboard or drywall when used as a liner.• Matches Pro-Rib® configuration.• Light and easy to handle.• Economically priced to save money with great results.• Virtually maintenance free.

WHITE ACRYLIC COATEDGALVANIZEDWhite Acoustical Panel

• Perforated between the ribs• Sound deadening liner• Used for walls and ceilings

J-TRIM WITH FRIEZE

LARGE

STEEL

Large J-Trim with FriezeDesigned for lining inside buildings with steel panels.

Available in these 2 finishes

INSIDECORNER

TRIM

5 12

512

1316

34

INSIDE CORNER TRIM

INSIDE CORNER HEM TRIM

DOUBLEJ-TRIMOPTION

Insulating Building

44

Double Girt Insulating method utilizing fiberglass batts of insulation up to 72" wide. 2×6 girts, applied flat, are used on the outside of the building and 2×4 girts, applied flat, are used on the interior of the building. Most common method of insulating an existing building.

Bookshelf GirtsInsulating method utilizing fiberglass batt insulation 24" wide. 2×6 girts are applied flat between the posts, and are used to finish off the outside and inside of the building at the same time.

Pro-Therm™ gives you these advantages:• Condensation control• R-8 Insulation value (estimated)• Lightweight, quick, and easy to install• Fire rating UL-723• Facing meets ASTM C1136• 87% light reflectance• Brite white facing for easy cleaning• 6" taped tabs allow easy lapping of insulation rolls.

Pro-Therm™ Condensation Blanket

R-40 Ceiling

R-19 Walls

R-19 Walls

R-40 Ceiling

OutsideGirts

2x4 InsideGirts

Bookshelf Girts Laid flat &

“Sandwiched” between posts

Insulation

Insulation

Ventilation

Gable Vent

Fasten ridgecap and closure strip to the rib of the roof steel.

Repeat on both sides, making sure the cap runs straight with the peak. Lap cap approximately 6" over each other, using 2 beads of silicone sealant in the lap.Overhangs (See Page 28)

•Square inches of free area:14"×18" = 54"18"×24" = 90"

•Size is actual rough opening size•Nailing flange on all 4 sides •All steel construction

45

Premium Vented Closure Strips • 40 year limited warranty • 8 square inches per lineal foot of closure strip • Conforms to roof pitch 2/12-20/12 • Industrial strength adhesive for permanent installation • Will not crack, clog or rust • Will not dent or scratch paint finish

PREMIUM

ACRYLIC

Outside Vented Closure Strip directly over

the Peak Purlin

8"

Roof Steel

Ridge Cap

Economy Vented Closure StripsNote: 1' overhangs intake approximately 7 square inches of air per foot. Vented closure strips exhaust 6 square inches of air per foot. Therefore, continuous vented closure strips equal a 1' overhang system.

MW-35 Ridge Vent•3½" throat•36 square inches of free area per lineal foot. •Approximately 500 cfm of air exhausted when equal air is provided.•Special fiberglass rain diverter to allow natural light inside building•Splice plate and end flashing included.

46

Roof Cupolas

Weather Vanes

24" or 36" AvailablePre-painted .018 steel construction.Slide on metal connectors for roof & wall sections.Weatherproof louver side vents.Bird screen included for mounting over roof cutout.4/12 pitch flashing includedSpecial pitch availableShipped unassembled.Mix or match any color of roof, corner post, louvered sides, and flashing color.Includes threaded base for weather vanes.

Hand cast aluminum with satin black enamel finish for maintenance-free service. 18" arrow length 4 lbs. Overall Height 205⁄8"5⁄8" NC threaded (male) to attach to cupola’s Will not attach directly to roof

24x24x30 4/12 156-940136x36x45 4/12 156-942724x24x30 Special Pitch 156-943536x36x45 Special Pitch 156-9445

Carriage 156-9508Cow 156-9472Duck 156-9480Eagle 156-9476Hog 156-9474Horse 156-9469Pheasant 156-9470Retriever 156-9478Rooster 156-9485Sailboat 156-9524

⁵⁄8" threaded top plate included

Slide on Roof Sections

4/12 Pitch stockedOther pitches available

Corner Post

Bird wire mesh included

Choose color combinattion to match your building

Reverse flashing nail flange on the inside

Standard flashing nail flange on the outside

47

Flashing AssemblyLay out the six pieces as shown and bend the designated pieces* to conform to the pitch of the roof.

Assemble the end pieces as shown with sheet metal screws. The flashing is pre-cut to a 4/12 pitch. Trimming the designated areas (*) may be required for other pitches.

Attach the side pieces as shown tocomplete the flashing assembly.

Base AssemblySlide the four corner posts trim on the side assemblies.

Once all four sides are connected, turn the base over so the roof connecting flange is up.

Roof AssemblySlide the roof sections into the roof connecting flange of each side assembly.

Screw the roof cap to each of the roof sections using the steel plate provided.

Slide each roof connector 4-6" at a time until all of the connectors are under the roof cap.

CupolaInstallation

Fasteners

Fasteners

*

*

*

* *

*

*

*

*

*Reverse Flashing Nail Flange on the inside.

Roof Connecting Flange

Corner Post Trim

RoofSection

RoofCap

Roof Connectors

After all of the roof connectors are driven under the roof cap, tighten the bolts and trim the roof connectors off to create a finished appearance.

Attach the cupola to the flashing assembly withsheet metal screws. Attach weathervane.Place the bird screen underneath the flashingassembly and attach the unit to the roof.

48

Horse StallsLumber Requirements The first step in building your stall is to decide on your finished dimensions, which determines the lengths of lumber required. The following specifications cover the lumber requirements for each wall model. Lumber listed is for 12' wide walls. Should your needs be different, just change the lumber lengths accordingly. Treated lumber is recommended if using 2×6 × 12'. Lumber from front wall can be used for door bottom rather than plywood.Front Wall with Grillwork and Door:• 1 pc. ¾" × 48" × 96" plywood (smooth 1 side) - for bottom half of sliding door.• 1 pc. 2×6 × 48" door header board• 9 pcs. 2×6 × 96" wall boards• 1 pc. 2×12 × 144" track board• 2 pcs. 2×2 × 36" door channel filler

Solid Front Wall with Door:• 1 pc. ¾" × 48" × 96" plywood (smooth 1 side) - for bottom half of sliding door.• 1 pc. 2×6 × 48" door header board• 9 pcs. 2×6 × 96" wall boards• 1 pc. 2×12 × 144" track board• 2 pcs. 2×2 × 36" door channel filler• 11 pcs. 2×6 × 144" wall boards

Solid Side Wall:• 17 pcs. 2×6 × 144" wall boards

Typical corner posts are standard 4×4 lumber. Five (5) posts are required for the first stall and three (3) additional posts for each stall thereafter, when constructed side-by-side. Note: All 4×4 posts should be 8' in length above the ground. Longer posts are required if they are to be anchored in the ground.

Front Wall System Door dimensions are 48" wide, 86" high.Overhead clearance must be at least 94½" to accommodate the door, trolley, and track.System comes complete with the following:

Grillwork sections: 10' front includes 1 - 24" & 1 - 48" 12' front includes 2 - 48"• 2 End channels• 4 Header channels• 1 Wall Brace Assembly Screws

Side Wall System System comes complete with the following:

Grillwork sections: 10' sidewall includes 2 - 48" & 1 - 24" 12' sidewall includes 3 - 48"• 2 End channels• 2 Header channels• 1 Wall brace assembly screws

Partition or RearWall System System comes complete with the following:

• 4 End channels• 2 Wall brace assembly screws

49

Post Installation After making your lumber list, the next step is to layout the stall. Install all corner posts with 8' of length above ground and lateral dimensions at 10' or 12' on centers, depending on the width of the walls you have selected. Be sure they’re all plumb, level and true. Next, install the center door post wall with a 4' dimension (on centers) from the corner post on the side that you want the door (see Stall Arrange-ment drawing).

Take note of the 1½" offset of the center post, which is necessary so that the sliding door can open past the post. The front wall and center post must all be flush. With all posts in place, you are now ready to install the walls you’ve selected. Unpack each carton as you’re ready for installation and account for all parts on the packing list. Review the assembly drawings to familiarize yourself with parts placement and read all instructions carefully.

Door KitA. 1-8' round track

B. 1-pair trolley hangers

C. 1-45"x36" welded grille section

D. 2-86" lumber fit vertical channel

E. 1-sliding latch

F. 1-door pull

G. 1-4' bottom guide

H. 1-bottom guide retainer

I. 1-door stop

XY

Stall Arrangement

X = 10' or 12'Y = 4'Z = 6' or 8'

Note post offset - flush with wall

X

Z

A

B

B

C

E

G

H

D

I

F

D

Horse Stalls Assembly Instructions

50

GUTTER SYSTEMS1.Lap gutter 6" overlap (min.)(Relief cut up stream section) A. Make relief cut on gutter lap. B. Bead of silicone in lap joint. C. Interlock gutter. D. Pop rivet or screw together.2.End caps A. Apply sealant to end cap channel. B. Attach end cap.3.Downspout outlet A. Mark and cut outlet hole. B. Apply sealant to outlet. C. Rivet or screw outlet to gutter.

4.Install gutter A. Place hidden hangers 24" o.c. B. Place gutter against fascia. C. Install hex head screw into fascia board.5. Install downspout A. Assemble downspout and elbows as required. B. Rivet or screw assembly together. C. Attach assembly to gutter and downspout. D. Attach downspout bands as needed to downspout and wall.

Contractor Grade Jumbo Gutter Systems

6" Jumbo gutter

Hidden hangers2' O.C.

• Available in all matching 25 colors• Premium paint system• Made with heavy duty 28 gauge steel• 58% more volume than 5" gutters• Quick and easy to install• All the right accessories available give the professional finished look• Downspouts offer twice the volume as standard, reducing clogs• Designed to fit with 6" fascia

Left end cap

Outside corner

Notch upstreamBead of lap sealant

Applysealant

in channel all the way

around.

* **

*Placement of pop rivets or srews

Inside corner

Front elbow2 per downspout

Side Elbow

Downspout bands

2 per downspout

Downspout

Rightend cap

To properly lap 2 pieces of gutter, make a relief cut on the gutter lap. Be sure this relief cut is on the upstream portion of the gutter. Apply a bead of silicone between the overlapped gutter portions. This will prevent the seam from leaking. Finally, apply two pop rivets in the designated locations.

Mark and cut out hole using jig saw or snips.

51

Gutter InstallationDetermine your downspout locations. Mark and cut outlet hole for downspouts outlet. Apply silicone to the bottom side of the downspout outlet. Place the outlet from the top side of the gutter. Using four pop-rivets rivet the downspout outlet to the gutter.

It is also possible to install the downspout outlet before attaching your gutter to the fascia board.

To attach the downspout to the outlet, slide the downspout over the bottom of the outlet. Rivet the downspout to the outlet using four rivets.

To install the end cap to the gutter apply a generous bead of silicone sealant. The cap will slide onto the end of the gutter.

It is also possible to install End Caps before attaching your gutter to the Fascia Board.

Apply silicone sealant on the interior channel of the end cap

Laminated columns are an engineered product designed for use on large or tall building applications. They feature a CCA treated base for all areas that are below ground and an untreated top portion. Thread locked wires are driven straight through all of the layers of a laminated column and then rivet clenched on both sides to provide superior holding power. Galvanized thread lock wire is used in all areas of the column except for the treated portion that will contact the ground. This area uses stainless steel wire.

Each splice joint includes a 20-gauge stainless steel plate which helps provide maximum strength at the joint.

Columns are designed with a bearing block notch in the center, which provides an area for the truss to rest, which eliminates notching of a timber with a chainsaw.

In-stock laminated columns are available in 3 ply 2”x6” columns made from #1 grade Southern Yellow Pine and are available in 16’-22’ lengths. Special order columns can be designed to meet your building needs in 3, 4 or 5 plys and up to 60’ in length.

20 gauge stainless steel platesat all joints

Pro-Rib® is the leading steel panel in the post frame industry offered at competitive prices and is comparable with nearly all of the standard panels on the market today. Pro-Rib® is also increasing its usage in the residential and light commercial markets.

Premium Pro- Rib® is one of the most versatile members of the Pro-Rib® family of quality products. It is truly a premium wall and roof panel whose applications span a tremendous variety of residential, commercial, and industrial construction projects. The superior performance of the Premium Paint System sets this panel apart from the crowd.

Pro-Rib® One Hundred Square Foot CalculationLength ...................................96"Number of pieces ................. ×20Equals ................................ 1920100 sq ft conversion ....×.002639Equals ......................... 5.067 SQ100 square ft. conversion factor is based on the overall formed 38" width of the Pro-Rib® panel.

Pro-Snap® One Hundred Square Foot CalculationLength ...................................96"Number of pieces ................. ×20Equals ................................ 1920100 sq ft conversion .....×.001215Equals .......................2.3328 SQ100 square ft. conversion factor is based on the overall formed width of the Pro-Snap® panel, 17½".

29 Gauge PanelActual .0142" minimum thickness before painting .0165" nominal thickness after paintingG-60 Galvanized Coating plus Zinc PhosphateLimited 40 Year Paint Warranty

28 Gauge PanelActual .0157" minimum thickness before painting .018" nominal thickness after paintingG-100 Galvanized Coating plus Zinc PhosphateLimited Lifetime Paint Warranty

Premium Pro-Snap® is an excellent choice for your residential or light commercial applications. Premium Pro-Snap® is an economical, snap together, concealed fastener roofing panel. Premium Pro-Snap® offers ease of installation, longevity, energy savings and exceptional durability. The superior performance of the Premium Paint System sets this steel roofing panel apart from the crowd.

Available in 24 Panel Colors -Plus Copper Colored in Lifetime ProductsTrim Available in All ColorsZinc Phosphate Pre-TreatmentCoil Coating “Paint” Process ASTM-A755Structural Strength ASTM-A653

Grade 80 (Full Hard Steel) 100,000 p.s.i. nom.Tensile StrengthUL 2218 Class 4 Hail Resistance UL 790 Class A Fire ResistanceUL 580 Class 90 Wind UpliftFor Underwriters Laboratory Product Certifications see www.ul.com

Steel Colors: Ash Gray, Beige, Black, Brite Red, Brite White, Bronze, Brown, Burgundy, Burnished Slate, Charcoal Gray, Colonial Red, Emerald Green, Forest Green, Galvanized, Ivory, Lt. Gray, Midnight Gray, Ocean Blue, Patina Green, Pinewood, Prairie Wheat, Red, Slate Blue, Tan, WhiteCopper colored & Multi-Tone steel avialable in Premium Products

28 Gauge PanelActual .0157" minimum thickness before painting .018" nominal thickness after paintingG-100 Galvanized Coating plus Zinc PhosphateLimited Lifetime Paint Warranty

9" On CenterOverlap

Underlap36" Nominal

38" Nominal3/4" high

9" On Center steel panel profile

16’ 110-581018’ 110-581320’ 110-519622’ 110-5206

53

1 # Box - Specify color 156-4396

1¼" SOFFIT NAILSA 1# box covers 150' or 112 pieces of soffit.

WOODGRIP SCREWS1" Galvanized @115/# 230-14931" Painted @115/# 230-16131½" Galvanized @95/# 230-15291½" Painted @95/# 230-16422" Galvanized @75/# 230-15582" Painted @75/# 230-16712½" Galvanized @65/# 230-15872½" Painted @65/# 230-1707• Preferred siding & roofing screw used to fasten steel panels to wood structures• No Predrilling required #10 Diamater• ¼" Hex Head• Neoprene washer for water tight seal• Available in all 25 colors• All Galvanized for long life

SELF TAPPING SCREWS¾" Galvanized @85/# 230-1736¾" Painted @85/# 230-18201" Galvanized @75/# 230-17651" Painted @75/# 230-18591½" Galvanized @60/# 230-17941½" Painted @60/# 230-1888• Used to attach steel panels to steel structure and steel frame sliding doors• No Predrilling required #12 Diamater• ⁵⁄16" Hex Head• Neoprene washer for water tight seal• Available in all 25 colorsSTITCH SCREWS

¾" Galvanized @100/# 230-1914¾" Painted @100/# 230-1943• Used to stitch at overlap location and to plug holes in steel panels• Neoprene washer for water tight seal• #12 diameter, ¼" Hex Head

L-4 FASCIA

L-6 FASCIA

FASCIA CAP

L-8 FASCIA

• Used as Fascia on 4" wide material• Used for overhang flashing• Used as snow guard on endwall purlins10' Lengths; SO 10' 156-459012' 156-4370 12' White 156-6828

• Used as Fascia on 6" wide material• Used for overhang flashing12' Lengths; SO12' 156-4587 12' Wht 156-6831

• Supports Soffit Panel• Used to cover 2x4 fascia board on eave of building12'3" Lengths; SO 156-5670

• Used as Fascia on 8" wide material• Used for overhang flashing8'6" 156-6857 10'6" 156-6886 SO12' 156-6912 12' Wht 156-6844

• Used to cover gable ends on overhangs• Supports soffit panels9' 156-5599 14' 156-5641

• Covers cut steel edge around openings10' Lengths; SO 156-6721

RING SHANK POLE BARNNAILS, HARDENED SHANK10D (3") Galvanized @75/# 230-137030D (4½") Galvanized @29/# 230-143560D (6") Oil Quenched @21/# 230-1464• Ringshank for holding power• Hardened Shank for easy application

Snow guard must be installed before roof steel & gable steel

Soffit

Soffit

SoffitPanel

J-Trim

Soffit

Soffit

SteelPanel

DoorJamb

DoorJamb

DoorJambTrim

Weatherstrip

DOOR JAMB TRIM

FRIEZE & “J” TRIM SMALL

FRIEZE STARTER SOFFIT

FRIEZE & “J” TRIM LARGE

HEM TRIM

DoorJamb

• Used as trim for sliding doors and service doors9'156-5269 10'156-5272 10' Wht 156-524312' 156-5285 14' 156-5298 16' 156-5308

CORNER AND GABLE TRIM

END CAPS

PREMIUM GABLE TRIM

UNIVERSAL RIDGECAP

RAKE TRIM

RESIDENTIAL RIDGE

SNAP RIDGE

REVERSE “J”

EAVE TRIM

“J” TRIM

⁷⁄16" “J” TRIM

• Cover and trim outside siding corners and gable ends. White Brown SO Colors 8' 156-388910' 156-3520 156-3708 156-391512' 156-3546 156-3724 156-393114' 156-3562 156-395716' 156-3973

• Used as alternative to rake and gable trim to create a 6" overhang.14' Lengths SO Colors 156-5645

• Top edge of roof panel flashing• Used with outide closure strips• 20" wide 10' White 155-8412 SO Color 155-8425 SO Galvanized 155-8409

• Rake trim flashes the endwall edge overhangs of the steel of the roof.12' Lengths SO Colors 156-4040

• Ridge cap for the peak of the roof• Hip of a roof10' Lengths; 4, 5, 6, 8, or 10/12 pitch4/12 pitch All Colors 156-42155/12 pitch All Colors 156-42576/12 pitch All Colors 156-42288/12 pitch All Colors 156-423110/12 pitch All Colors 156-4244Specify color on order

• Used as alternative to rake and gable trim to create a 6" overhang.12' 3" Lengths SO Colors 156-4615

• Used as closure and trim along the top edge of a sidewall and around door and window openings 39.5" 156-6284 8'6" 156-631010' Wht 156-6336 10' 156-634910'6" 156-6378 12'6" 156-640416'3" 156-6433

• Covers overhangs at top of the wall VENTED: 1'×16" 156-43092'×16" 156-4312 12'×16" 156-4325 SOLID: 12'×16" 156-4406

• The small is a great time saver when installing an overhang.• The large is designed for lining inside buildings with steel panels.

• Used at the top of the wall to support the soffit

• Used as alternative to rake and gable trim to create a 6" overhang.10' Lengths SO Colors 156-4163

• Reverse “J” is used on the hip of a roof with snap ridge.10' Lengths SO Colors 156-4150

12' Small 156-4354

12' 156-4341

12' 156-4338

12' Large 156-4367

Soffit Steel

BOXED END FASCIA

• J-Trim used with soffit

• Available in 3/12 or 4/12 pitch3/12 155-5965 4/12 155-5978

54

SIDEWALL FLASHING VERTICAL DOOR TRIM

POST FRAME WINDOWS

DOUBLE ANGLE TRIM

DRIP CAP

THERMOPANE INSULATED WINDOWS

SINGLE TRACKBOARD TRIM

DOUBLE TRACKBOARD TRIM

SINGLE SLIDING DOOR TRACK COVER

ASTRAGAL TRIMOUTSIDE & INSIDE

GAMBREL BREAK TRIM

END WALL FLASHING

40" VALLEY FLASHING

18" VALLEY FLASHING

VALLEY CAP

RIDGE VENTILATIONPremium vented closure strip

ROOF EDGE

UNIVERSAL SNOW BAR

SNOW JACK

• To be used where there is a lean-to type roof sloping, away from the vertical wall.

• Roof Edge flashes the top edge of sidewall overhangs10' Lengths; SO 156-4095

• Used as a break on vertical wall steel for eavelites/wainscot 10' Lengths; SO 156-4765

• Used for flashing and breaks in sidewall panels 12'3" Lengths; SO 156-5861

• Flashing for window and door headers 10' Lengths; SO 156-4574

• Coceals single 2x4 trackboard header10' Lengths; SO 155-5871

• Coceals sliding door header10' Lengths; SO 155-5907

• Used to trim openings on Mini-warehouse overhead doorways6'6" 156-6909 9'6" 156-70057'6" 156-6967 10'6" 156-70218'6" 156-6983

• Coceals door track• Serves as sliding door flashing• Hemmed edge locks into tab brackets10' Lengths; SO 155-5842

• Coceals double door track• Serves as sliding door flashing• Hemmed edge locks into tab brackets10' Lengths; SO 155-5855

Midwest offers coil stock in all 25 colors. This steel is not roll formed and thus will have no ribs. All trim coil stock is .018 inches nominal thickness after painting. 4" 155-6773 11" 155-6841 6" 155-6799 15" 155-6860 8" 155-6812 18" 155-687010" 155-6812 40.625" 155-6896

• Coceals double 2x4 trackboard header and stopblock10' Lengths; SO 155-5897

• Universal snow bar 10' Lengths; SO 156-6740

• Helps prevent snow avalanches 157-2676

• Attractive detail inside corner trim - Hidden fasteners 10' SO 156-4710

8' 156-7076 10' 156-708912' 156-7092 14' 156-7144

SO Colors

• An attractive detail trim for inside corners • Provides larger coverage

• Used for roof valley flashing10' Lengths 155-1066

• Used for roof valley flashing10' Lengths 155-1037

• Used to cover roof valley flashing10' Lengths 155-0999

GambrelTruss

OverhangJack

Roof SteelPanels

2x4 SPFPurlins

438

1316

150° 150°

155° 343

Hem14

34

10' SO 156-7173

10' SO 156-7209

• Used at the hip and flared joint on a gambrel roof 10' SO

• To be used with Midest all steel frame sliding door systems• Covers the edge of the door 10' 156-6653 14' 156-6679 12' 156-6666 16' 156-6682

• To be used with Midest all steel frame sliding door systems• Use to seal where doors meet 10' 156-6527 14' 156-6543 16' 156-6556

Sidewall flashing

End wall flashing

Outside 156-7267

Inside 156-7238

Valley cap

INSIDECORNER

TRIM

5 12

512

1316

34

INSIDE CORNER HEM

INSIDE CORNER TRIM

OUTSIDE CLOSURERegular or vented

INSIDE CLOSURE

Valley flashing

End wallPro-Rib® Inside 4 pk

SO 155-8616 Stock 155-8577

Pro-Rib® 155-8595

Pro-Rib® Outside 4 pk SO 155-8603 Stock 155-8580Pro-Rib® Outside Vented 4 pk SO 155-8593

• Built in “J” Channel on screen units.• Frame and Sash are completely weather stripped with woven pile.• A durable standard baked enamel finish available in white or brown.• Shipped ready to install.• Center strong mullion• Nylon track for easy sliding sash.

NOTE: Screen units are to be installed on the exterior of the bldg. Storm units are installed on the inside of the building. Therefore when ordering windows you generally just order a screen unit. Sometimes you may order a screen and a storm, but it is highly doubtful that you would be using a storm unit alone.

48" W × 36" HRough OpeningStorm unitWhite only

48" W×36" H 60" W×20" HWht w J 403-3730 403-3756Brn w J 403-3772 403-3785Wht Strm 403-3743 403-3769

4' × 2' 403-3824 4' × 3' 403-38403' × 4' 403-3837 5' × 4' 403-3853

HEMMED D-2 TRIM

MINI-WAREHOUSE TRIM

DOUBLE SLIDING DOOR TRACK COVER

FLAT STEEL

OVERDOOR TRACKBOARD TRIM

CLOSURE STRIPS

60" W × 20" HRough OpeningScreen unitWhite or Brown

• To be used where flashing is needed to go behind the wall steel and on top of the roof steel

55

Sku# 101-7835 9/14 www.midwestmanufacturing.com