Important 31.12-carat fancy vivid yellow, internally flawless diamond by Moussaieff. POA.

www.moussaieff-jewellers.com

MICRO TREND: KITE SHAPE GEMSTONES TAKE US TO NEW HEIGHTS

Have you ever marvelled at a diamond-shaped kite high in the sky, or even played with one? This precise shape is actually what makes it stable enough to ride on different air pres-sures. A diamond-shaped kite is a heavier-than-air object that can fly. Certainly, the same physics apply to kite-cut gemstones if not literally. The kite shape is indeed one of the oldest of the ‘fancy’ or unusual shapes. Sometimes referred to as the ‘diamond shape’ for it evokes the side view of a dia-mond, the kite shape has five or six sides, often including two longer ones which elon-gate the overall shape from the middle sec-tion. Part of the larger family of step cuts – i.e. stones whose outlines are either square or rectangular and whose facets are rectilinear and arranged parallel to the girdle are known as step- or trap-cut stones – the kite shape is rather unusual and expensive due to the high rough wastage when cutting. A reason why the Green Borealis Necklace by Piaget is more than impressive: the pear-shaped em-eralds were re-cut into kite shapes, a risk-tak-ing endeavour that paid off since, but for the kite cut, this could have been just another di-amond / emerald parure.

Green Borealis transformable Necklace by Piaget in 18K white gold set with one pear-shaped emerald from Colombia (approx. 7.50cts), 33 kite-shaped emeralds from Colombia (37.39cts), 8 trapeze-cut diamonds (approx. 8.97cts) and 760 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 17.46ct); one of a kind; Dancing Nights, Sunlight Escape collection. POA.

www.piaget.com

It is said that the kite shape is often used to ornament the shanks of rings, however it seems that this supporting role has recently evolved taking this fancy shape into front and centre place in high jewels. Take the kind of toi et moi ring by G, a simple mirroring pattern of two kite-cut diamonds that are positioned back to back. The inherent elongation of the kite is here celebrated by doubling its impact. The simple paving of diamonds and soft rose gold cement this minimalist beauty. The same applies to the torque cuff that also features two kite-shaped diamonds. This time the two gems face each other almost in a stand-off posture, set on patinated bronze, the base for the cuff itself. The overall power of the design is un-derlined by a delicate paving of brown diamonds.

One unique Bangle by G in bronze set with 2 kite-shaped diamonds (7.05cts and 6.95cts) and 100 round orange brown diamonds (0.69cts). POA.

www.glennspiro.com

One unique Ring by G in 18K satin red gold set with one 1 5.01-carat kite-shaped diamond (I -VVS1), one 14.01-carat kite-shaped diamond (I-VS1), 44 brilliant-cut diamonds and one round diamond. POA.

www.glennspiro.com

When it comes to rare gems in special cuts, look no fur-ther than to Moussaieff. As I’ve said before in previous ar-ticles, their repertoire is endless, and each time you can be sure that the special-cut exceptional gemstone is the hero of the piece. Case in point with two stunning cre-ations that each celebrate the kite shape. First a tie pin, an unfussy jewel set with a particularly fine kite-shaped diamond. The simplicity of the design belies its vigour. One can only imagine how head-turning this precious token must be when attached to a lapel. Then comes the pièce de resistance neckpiece set with two ingredi-ents only: baguette-cut diamonds and one spectacular kite-shaped emerald. It is all about angles and lines mi-nus the sharpness. It is as if a clear stream was flowing down towards a luscious verdant pool.

A Tie Pin by Moussaieff in platinum set with one 5.61-carat kite-shaped diamond. POA.

www.moussaieff-jewellers.com

High jewellery Necklace by Moussaieff in platinum set with 21.45 carats of diamonds and one 21.33-carat kite-shaped Colombian emerald pendant. POA.

www.moussaieff-jewellers.com

The emerald cut being a step cut, it is only logi-cal that emeralds would lend themselves well to the sub-group of the kite cut. We have seen ear-lier a prime example of a splendid neckpiece by Moussaieff. In the same vein, the Stephen Silver’s custom designed handmade pendant that fea-tures a show-stopping Colombian shield-cut nat-ural emerald with an internally flawless, E colour kite-shaped diamond uses the same formula. Each splendid gem is mounted in platinum and framed by a glittering halo of pavé-set diamonds. String the pendant on an opera length diamond necklace for a deco-inspired look or wear it on a short chain to complement the neckline of a for-mal gown.

Testament that the cut highlighted in this article is one of the most ancient, comes from a genius modern rendition by Santi Jewellery. Composed of an unusually shaped historical old-mine em-erald, whose corners are each held by a kite-shaped diamond-set prong. For an article about the kite shape it does not come better than that! The emerald has an almost kite shape yet with rounder angles. And so, the diamond-set prongs seem to reconstitute and suggest the missing sharp edges of what a kite shape would be.

Ring by Santi Jewels set with one Very unusual shaped historical old-mine Columbian emerald of 6.66 carat weight set with 1 carat weight of diamond kites on platinum. POA.

contact Info@santijewels.com - By appointment only.

Pendant Necklace by Stephen Silver in platinum set with one 6.59-carat Colombian

shield-cut natural emerald, an internally flawless 1.61-carat E colour kite-shaped diamond, and pavé-set diamonds. POA.

www.shsilver.com

How fitting! Some of Avakian’s high jew-els are under the umbrella of ‘Graceful Motion’. It includes a delightful pair of ear-rings featuring none other than a duo of kite-shaped diamonds. Daydreaming while looking at kites high in the sky, one can only describe the sight as indeed graceful motion as the paper toys effortlessly glide over air waves. Moreover, the colours of this Avakian rendition reinforce the sense of softness as a ravishing paving of pink diamonds double frame the large kite-shaped stones. Geometry meets delica-cy in spectacular fashion! And as if these were not hypnotising enough, the ‘mo-tion’ is real as the upper parts (set with the smaller kite-shaped diamonds) swing like pendulums. Avakian keep confirming their expertise at kinetic jewels, re-invent-ing what transformability can mean.

Swinging Diamond Earrings from Avakian’s High Jewellery range are set with white and pink gold, white

tapered baguette diamonds, 2 large kite-shaped white diamonds,

2 small kite-shaped white diamonds, and white and pink

paved diamonds. POA.

www.avakian.com

Of course, kite shapes are also increasing-ly used alongside other fancy and basic cuts in highly geometric compositions. It even allows the designs to be more com-plex and layered; sometimes it is also the perfect shape to fit a space around oth-er types of cuts, in the manner of jigsaws. There are some exceptional examples out there, and a few have already been re-viewed in some of my previous articles. So it is time to bring them back into the light for the purpose of this report. First is the KANAGA set from the Cartier Coloratura Collection. The design seamlessly com-bines the roundness of rare spinel beads with the angular attributes of baguette, triangular step and kite cuts. The effect is both tribal and futuristic. Of course, you have to look closely to identify the kite shaped diamonds as they flawlessly blend into what looks like marquetry.

KANAGA Earrings in 18K white gold, set with two orangey pink spinels (5.49 carats), two F/G triangular-shaped step-cut diamonds (3.15 carats), spinel beads, triangular-shaped diamonds, and brilliant-cut diamonds; Vincent Wulveryck ©Cartier. Cartier Coloratura Collection. POA.

www.cartier.com

KANAGA Necklace in 18K white gold, set with two orangey pink spinels (7.58 carats), two G triangular-shaped step-cut diamonds (8.39 carats), spinel beads, triangular-shaped diamonds, baguette-cut diamonds, and brilliant-cut diamonds; Vincent Wulveryck ©Cartier. Cartier Coloratura Collection. POA.

www.cartier.com

I have mentioned that the kite-cut be-longs to the step-cut family and although the latter is more commonly used by high jewellers, both firmly belong in their rep-ertoire. In this and the following spreads, I will present renditions by leading private high jewellers, one with a kite shape and the other with a step-cut, side by side. First is David Morris with a gorgeous pair of ear pendants that are a feast of cuts: round brilliant, pear, trillion, tapered ba-guette and of course kite! Only the lat-ter could allow the design to be so well balanced. On the right is a fantastic soli-taire with a step-cut yellow diamond with its larger facets. It is elegant, has perfect proportions which reveal the perfect clar-ity of the central gemstone. It also helps that when delving into the main stone, one feels transported into a room full of mirrors.

Peacock Earrings by David Morris set with white shield (GIA certified central diamonds:

modified shield brilliant. Respectively 5.02cts and 4.09cts – both D colour), triangle, pear-

shape and brilliant-cut white diamonds, as well as 4.44 carats of brilliant-cut and micro-set

pink diamonds, all mounted in 18K white and rose gold. Total carat weight: 41.48 carats. POA.

www.davidmorris.com

Important Ring by David Morris in 18K white gold set with one 4.18-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow emerald-cut diamond (VVS2) and micro paved band. POA.

www.davidmorris.com

The same may be said of these two cre-ations by David Webb. A splendid step-cut aquamarine on a cocktail ring and kite-shaped yellow sapphire as part of a cascade of coloured gems on superb ear-rings. Once again, the clarity of the aqua-marine is fully revealed by the step cut. The clear blue colour evokes a pool of pristine water, while the tight diamond paving on each side could be likened to sea foam. The contrast is genius and oh so intoxicating. Also intoxicating is the riot of colours in the earrings. At the forefront is a layer of oval-cut sapphires framed by round-cut rubel-lites and kite-shaped yellow sapphires; in the background is a second layer of emer-ald-cut citrines framed by kite-shaped yel-low sapphires, marquise-cut chrome tour-malines and cushion-cut rubellites. The chromatic composition is artistic and the positioning of various cuts almost sartori-al. These earrings are so ‘couture’ that they paradoxically could go with anything.

Step Ring by David Webb in 18K gold and platinum set with one

rectangular step-cut aquamarine, and baguette- and brilliant-cut

diamonds. POA.

www.davidwebb.com

Streamer Earrings By David Webb in 18K gold and platinum set with round- and cushion-cut rubellites, oval-cut blue sapphires, kite-shaped yellow sapphires, marquise-cut chrome tourmalines, emerald-cut citrines and brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

www.davidwebb.com

Lastly and to demonstrate one more time the benefits of a step cut, here are two sublime creations by Tiffany & Co. It just take a quick glimpse to grasp the great clarity of the gems. Of course, step cuts may not bring the same kind of sparkle as provided by brilliant-cut di-amonds but the vastness of the open table en-sures that it has greater clarity. Among famous step cuts is the emerald cut that confers in-stant sophistication and is the reason why it has

always been a favourite among royalty. In the stylised toi et moi ring, the experience of the deep blue colour from the Sri Lankan sapphire is enhanced. The gaze is invited to dive into this flawless saturation. In the case of the tanza-nites used for the earrings, the step cut allows every shade within the gem to shine through. The blue, pink, and purple hints bounce off each other. They are precious berries at the end of a diamond-set and -paved branch.

Ring by Tiffany & Co in platinum set with an esteemed Sri Lankan sapphire and diamonds; 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection. POA.

www.tiffany.com

Earrings by Tiffany & Co in platinum set with tanzanites and diamonds; 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection. POA.

www.tiffany.com