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Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

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Page 1: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibre Processing

Micro Fibres Processing

Page 2: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingProcess Overview 1

1Normal.

RelaxHeat Set

Scour/WRDye/Print

WashFinish

2Textured

RelaxScour

ModifyDye/Print

WashFinish

3Short

Process

Heat SetScour

Dye/PrintWashFinish

There are a number of processing options for Microfibres, depending on the desired end result and material.

4Yarn

WindScourDye

WashOil / Finish

Page 3: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Relaxation is the process of shrinkage development, at low fabric tension.

Relaxation = Hot + Wet

Benefits of Relaxation Reduces potential distortion or deformation of the

fabric from residual uneven tension. (eg : slits, islands, uneven puckering ) Pre-shrinks the goods ready for correct setting. Required for Desizing woven goods before Heat Set.

RELAXATION 1

Shrinkage occurs at lower temperatures than standard fibres.

Page 4: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Relaxation Methods for Microfibres

Hot wash or scour. Say ~ 90 0C . This can be coupled with a scouring step. Hot solvent scour (continuous washer). Steaming

Steam Table Gives good relaxation.Steam Frame Front of Stenter ( Steaming and drying in a stenter should be a separate step before Heat Setting. )

Combined (Single Pass) Steam Relaxing and Heat Set gives a less uniform result compared with two separate steps.

RELAXATION 2

Page 5: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingThe best wet processing machines for Microfibres are :

Low or controlled tension,- short distance to lift roll/winch (a small rise ).- lots of water pumping action to support.

Good liquor exchange but low turbulence.

ADD TANK

SOFT - STREAM SV

Cool to 50° C before drop !

Thies Soft-StreamHisaka Cut-F Brazolli OverflowLongclose Ventura Rapide

MACHINES 1

Page 6: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

MACHINES 2

Low liquor ratio machines will work on viscose blends, or on heavier fabrics : say above 100 gm/m.

Then AirflowThies Airstream or Rotostream

These machines may not work so well on high twist and high density but lightweight fabrics.Problems => Creasing, Shrinkage, Abrasion, Air entrapment.

NEARFIL FAC To eliminate air entrapment.

Page 7: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

NEARFIL FAC

• Developed for Deaerating yarn packages after loading.• Excellent wetting efficiency.• Rapid bubble breakage.• Alkali stable.

Suitable for :• Yarn preparation• Batch dyeing of light

synthetics.

DEAERATION 1

Page 8: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Some fabrics may be prepared by bad dwell methods, but it is normal to dye polyester microfibre in Jets.

MACHINES 3

x

Useful machines for microfibre relaxation are :

Continuous Drum Scour machines.They give :

Good widthwise relaxation. Controlled lengthwise relaxation. Good scouring of fibre. Splitting of conjugates.

Page 9: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingThe best dry processing machines for Microfibres are :

Electric heated, to minimise fumes. (Critical for Nylon) Steaming capacity to facilitate relaxation. Overfeed capacity to facilitate optimum body and

fullness properties.

Steam Frame

Pad Frame

MACHINES 4

Page 10: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingProcess Overview 2

Normal Long Process

Relax

Heat Set

Scour/WR

Dye/Print

Wash

Finish

or

or

Solvent scour or jet scour to relax .

Rapid relax with Steam Frame orTable , then Set.

Scour after Setting.Weight Reduce for light silk styles.

Dye the fabric in jet machine.

Wash off well in jet.

Pad finish, dry and Cure with mild Set.

x

Page 11: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Process Overview 3.1Textured 1

Textured fabrics

: are produced by blending filaments with different shrinkage. “MICROPILE”

“MICROLOOPS”

Process Conditions : elimination of the Pre Heat Setting step allows full development of the micro loops of filament.

“Micromattique MX” from Invista

Yarn => 135 d / 200 f 175 filaments @ 0.5 dpf 34 filaments @ 2 dpf

“Maximum body and softness.”

Page 12: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Process Overview 3.2Textured 2

Micropile effects may also be achieved by varying the structure of the fibre . Differential texturising and control of crystallinity can lead to differential shrinkage properties.

Caution : Different fibre denier and types create shade variations. This may create desirable effects, or…..

NEARGAL HP-MF New and high temperature dyeing helps with polyester.

Invista’s nylon 6.6 ‘Tactel’ Ispira.

Differential shrinkage filament, that gives texture and shading effects.

Warp lines from unequally textured polyester filament can show

after dyeing, and can be a difficult problem to solve.

Page 13: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Process Overview 3.3Textured 3

Different fibre denier and types can create various effects.- differential depth of shade. - differential sheen or lustre.- textured effects.

The yarn can be used in fashion goods to create unusual colouration effects, with reasonable control.

Invista ‘Strata’ polyamide.

This type of yarn is mixed in denier and shape leading to potential texture and colourationeffects.

Page 14: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingProcess Overview 3.4

Relax

WR

Dye/Print

Wash

Finish& Set

Textured 4

Continuous, Jet or Solvent scour to relax .

Weight Reduce for light silk styles.

Dye the fabric in jet machine.

Wash off well in jet.

Pad finish, dry and Cure with Full Set.

oror

x

x

Page 15: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingProcess Overview 3.5

Relax

Modify

Dye/Print

Wash

Finish& Set

Textured 5

Continuous, Jet or Solvent scour to relax .

Pad, dry and emerise to loft the fabric.

Dye the fabric in jet machine.

Wash off well in jet.

Pad finish, dry and Cure with Full Set.

or or

x

Page 16: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingProcess Overview 4

Heat Set

Scour

Dye/Print

Wash

Finish

Short Process

Rapid relax with Steam Frame orTable , then Set.

Scour for dyeing;

Dye the fabric in jet machine.

Wash off well in jet.

Pad finish, dry and Cure with mild Set.

or

x

Page 17: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingNotes on Short Process

Heat setting before scouring causes scorching, and the setting of oils into the fabric. As microfibres have a high loading of process aids, this can be a real problem.

These aids may be difficult to remove Silicone oils, sizes, waxes, and mineral oil from knitters and looms.

Process Overview 4.2

This problem is worst with :- very fine fibres due to the high oil content.- cotton blends the cotton yellows and absorbs oils from

other fibres.

Padding LUBRIFIL LAF can help.

Page 18: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingPreparation 1

Objectives of Preparation

1. Remove the high level of processing aids.(Spin finish, size, wax, processing oils etc..)Before or after heat setting !

2. Control shrinkage in a gentle manner, as required.(Some fabrics require a relaxed shrinkage to develop full texture and body. ) Relaxation !

3. Minimise fabric damage and creasing.(The shrinkage step can be prone to crease generation if not performed in a relaxed state.)

Page 19: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

NEARPON KR

• Developed for removing Silicone oils from Tactel Microfibre.

• Biodegradable Solvent Scouring Detergent • Non flammable, safe, low odour, high activity.• Softens and dissolves waxes, silicone, mineral oils,

PVA, acrylic size, paint, etc...• Ideal for elastomeric and microfibre.

Recommended by Invista.• Wets rapidly for padding and continuous operations.• Low foam profile.• Rinses clear for excellent absorbency.

SCOURING 1

Page 20: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingSCOURING 2

Invista recommendationsfor Tactel.

NEARPON KR 2.0 - 4.0 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 - 1.0 g/lSoda Ash 1.0 - 4.0 g/l. Heat to 90-95 0C x 10 - 30’

Page 21: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

NEARCHEL TMC

Scouring and Dyeing Sequesterant.

For Scouring. Builds up the effectiveness of the detergent. Strong sequestering power to remove metals. Extraction of magnesium from Elastane. Gives high whiteness on bleaching. Stabilises bleach liquor when padding.

For Dyeing. Stable to high temperatures. Minimises dye aggregation for best dispersion.

SCOURING 3

Page 22: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingObjectives of MICRO-FIBRE HEAT SETTING

1. Control shrinkage during wet processing.2. Reduce creasing, abrasion and crows feet marksContamination may be burnt into the fabric.

The strength of setting may be measured by the Heat Set Efficiency (HSE).

HEAT SETTING 1

HSE = Final Width After Dyeing = FW Heat Set Width HSW

Many microfibre fabrics are dyed without pre heat setting, to allow the full development of shrinkage during wet processing.

Page 23: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingHEAT SETTING CONDITIONS

Silk styles 185 oC x 30” Active sportswear 180 oC x 30”

or maybe No pre setting. Textured styles No pre setting.

Cationic Dye types 165 oC x 30”

HEAT SETTING 2

Follow your fibre supplier’s recommendation !!Using a Steam Frame or Steam Table before setting,

can give some relaxation effect without a wet process.This may be beneficial in shortening the process path.

Page 24: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingHEAT SETTING CONDITIONSUse of Auxiliary.

HEAT SETTING 3

The Pad application of Auxiliaries can help reduce scorching and setting of oils during pre-heat setting.

The use of a padding application before pre-set also allows some movement and relaxation of the fibres.

Maximum Heat Set Efficiency is achieved.

Page 25: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

LUBRIFIL LAF A problem solver.

An anionic multipurpose product.

HEAT SETTING 4

Detergent Emulsifies and restrains oil from burning into fabric.Cleans during subsequent wet processing.Disperses particles including dyes, dust and fibres.

AnticreaseLubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. (Less return.)Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease.

Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and all types of micro-fibre fabrics.

Page 26: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

NAISTAT 1350 The POLYESTER friend.

A fine dispersion of polymer.(Please refer to Finishing later.)

HEAT SETTING 5

Detergent Scavenges and restrains oil from polyester and elastane.Cleans during scouring, after heat set. Anti-redeposition.

AnticreaseLubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. (Less return.)Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease.

Ideal for Heat Setting polyester elastane and microfibre.

Helps reduce scorching of elastane by a protective film.

Page 27: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

NEARCAND LT 75 The Anti-scorch.

A nylon substantive antioxidant.

HEAT SETTING 6

NEARCAND LT 75 adsorbs rapidly onto nylon or amide- likesubstances to form an antioxidant film. This reduces the scorching of nylon and elastane polymers, and limits yellowing of softeners as high temperatures.

Used for Heat Setting, Finishing or Wet Bleaching of nylon and nylon blends.

Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and nylon fabric.

Low dose required : 1 to 3 % owf.Needs to be dispersed or dissolved hot before application.

Page 28: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

Some RECIPES. 65% Pick up.

HEAT SETTING 7

Nylon Polyester TC

25-30 g/l -- -- -- 15 g/l -- -- 10 - 20 g/l

NEARCAND LT 75NAISTAT 1350LUBRIFIL LAF

Maximum settling of fibres for optimum Heat Set, scorch protection, easier cleaning and trouble free dyeing.

=> Less distortion and better dyeing and finishing.

Page 29: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing NEARPON KR See Scouring 2

Developed for removing Silicone oils, ideal for elastomerics. Recommended by Dupont.

Powerful Green Scouring Detergent for all oils.

NEARCHEL TMC Powerful High Temperature sequesterant. Bleach Stabiliser, Cotton Protector and Whiteness Booster.

BLEACHING

Suggested Cotton-Microfibre bleach after Heat Set . @ 110 0C x 20’

NEARPON KR 0.3 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lCaustic Soda 50% 4.0 g/lH. Peroxide 50% 5-10 g/l

Page 30: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingWeight Reduction 1

Traditional Imitation Silk Made with ‘fine’ polyester filament that is reduced in size and weight by the process of Weight Reduction, (WR).

Typically, filaments of 1.2 to 2.0 dpf are used, with the final fibre size depending on the structure and required features.

Imitation Silk

Imitation silks can now be achieved through use of Microfibre technology, without the need for WR.

Weight reduction is still applied to Microfibre fabrics, to achieve additional handle benefits.The finer dpf leads to - more open weave with reduced stiffness and improved drape.- enhancement of differential dpf properties like lofted yarns.- splitting or shocking of “conjugate” fibres to Microfibres.

Page 31: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingWeight Reduction 2

Techniques for WR

3. WR in Jet machine. (A method used in some places.)

Dip batch in (Easy to control.)

NaOH x%1 g/l accelerator@ 130 oC x 60’

1. Pad Roll batching. (Difficult to control)

2. WR by Pad Steam IR heat and Steam must be controlled well.

The key to success is consistency. => Complete control.

Temperature, Time, Purity, Liquor Ratio, Accelerants, Steam, and Excellent Washing .

x

Page 32: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingWeight Reduction 3

Control for WR

% Reduction in Weight can be theoretically calculated.

2 equivalents of NaOH break up one ester monomer unit. Molecular weight of 2 x NaOH = 80 Molecular weight of ester monomer = 192 Machine factors must be used in practice. = ‘f’

So, %WR = 192 x %NaOH (owf) x f 80

For Pad applications, the pick-up must be accounted for.

Typical Fabric % WRCrepe Georgette 25-30%Pongee De Chine 15%Textured Wovens 15%

Accelerants must WR in an even or “level” manner.

Page 33: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

NEARGAL DN High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer. Proven performance as a machine cleaner.

NEARCLEAR VL Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent. Proven performance in Reduction Clear. Lifts surface and disperses residues.

Weight Reduction 4

Wash @ 900C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/l NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l

The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, and leaves large amounts of polyester fragments and oligomer on this rough surface.

These residues MUST be removed before dyeing.

Page 34: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingDyeing 1Key Issues

The 2 most important factors in dyeing polyester microfibres.• Build-up properties.• Washfastness.

BUILD-UP

WASHFASTNESS

1 Depth of shade 1/ fibre dpf.Finer fibres need more dye.

2 Dye buildup properties can vary with finer fibres.

DYE & AUXILIARYSELECTION

1 High dye applications needed.2 Washfastness relates to surface

dye. Microfibres have very high surface area.

DYE & AUXILIARYSELECTION

Problems Causes Remedies

Page 35: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing

NEARGAL DN High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer and Dye. Proven performance as a machine cleaner and dispersant.

NEARCLEAR VL Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent. Proven performance in Reduction Clear Lifts surface dye and disperses residues.

Reduction Clear

@ 920C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/lNEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l

(& when ready to give up, add ..) NEARPON KR 0.3 g/l

The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, which can trap large amounts of surface dye. The high surface area alone

creates wash fastness problems for microfibres.

Page 36: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingTEXTURE from SHRINKAGEThe differential shrinkage of microfibres provides the potential for novel texture effects.

Additional Loft. “Micromattique XF”Peach Skin effect. Medium shrink.Suede effects. High shrink.Emerising and Brushing of these fabrics.

Texture Modification 1.1 Emerising 1

EMERISINGRaising the “microloops” created by differential shrinkage, creates a fullness and warmth in the fabric.

Emerising is usually done before dyeing, to reduce shade variation, but may be carried out after dyeing on light shades.

Page 37: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingTexture Modification 1.2

Emerising 2

EMERISING PROCESSFactors to consider ….• Emery grit grade• Roller speed and direction.• Pressure applied.• Cloth tension and run speed.

Pad Lubricant Dry Emerise Post Set Wash DyeLubricate with a non permanentsoftener.

Scour & Relax FIRST

Dry gently to about7% .

Moisturewill moderate the effect.

Control ofparametersto desired effect.

A heat setstep may beincludedfor dimensionalstability.

Wash/Scourto removelubricant, fluff, and lint.

Versatile - wide range of effects.Runs best on filaments.Can damage fabric, spun yarns.Runs about 8 m/min.(Spirotto Rimar / Curtain Herbert)

High run rates - tuned to effect.Good for spun yarns.Easy to run continuously.Runs about 15 m/min.(Spirotto Rimar / Sucker Mueller)

Single roller

Multi roller

Page 38: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingBREATHABLE SHOWER PROOF Fabrics

Microfibres can form high density woven fabrics that :- block wind effectively, but allow vapour to diffuse through.- allow easy barrier coverage. (Polyurethane or Fluorocarbon.)- maintain appealing drape and handle characteristics.

Texture Modification 2 Air Permeable Water Proofs

BARRIER

Fluorocarbon Repellant. Applied as a standard finish and cured.and / or

Polyurethane solution. The application is made from a volatile solvent (DMF, MEK) which is boiled off

to leave a porous film. (The film is gas permeable but repels water.)

Hoechst ‘Trevira’

Akzo ‘Sympatex’ & ‘Sportex’

Page 39: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingVISCOSE BLENDS Light with excellent drape.High Twist Polyester and Nylon Microfibres blended with Viscose :- much reduced shrinkage.- anticreasing and dimensional stability properties.- tensile strength and durability.

Imitation Effects Microfibre enhancement

COTTON BLENDS Enhanced TC properties.

Polyester Microfibre staple blended with cotton for shirting :- enhanced softness and drape.- enhanced moisture absorbency.- added warmth.

WORSTED BLENDS Durability

Multi false twisting and air texturising on warp/weft blends producesinterlaced (structured) fabrics. These are similar to the felting on worsted and woollen fabrics. Microfibre Suits are available !

Page 40: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingTechnical Effects 1

Microfibres wick moisture better.

This technical effect is due to capillary transport created in

the small gaps between many more filaments. This effect,

combined with polyester stability and microfibre handle,

imparts several unique benefits.

1. Comfort in normal apparel like polyester-cotton.Soft & Dry feeling apparel. Not clammy or sticky.

2. Specialty Sportswear.Rapid drying, and body cooling effects.

3. Towels and Wipes.For cleaning lenses, glasses etc… lint free !

4. High oil pickup with polyester.

R

‘Toraysee

’ &

Montefibre

‘Zero

4’

Page 41: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingTechnical Effects 2

Microfibres act as barriers to bacteria.

This technical effect is due to the small size of the gaps

between many filaments, which acts like a filter. This effect,

combined with polyester stability and microfibre handle,

imparts several unique benefits.

1. Filter Membranes without contamination.2. Hospital specialty medical wear.3. Clean room garments, camera bags, instrument

covers..

All lint free !

Page 42: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingFINISHING 1

Imitiation Silk.

Emerised.

Air perm / water proof.

Cotton/Viscose blends.

Worsted blends.

Technical

Spandex blends.

Microfibres naturally have appealing ‘handle’ features.

• High softness, greater than cotton or conventional polyester.• High degree of drape and fluidity, (this varies with structure).• High surface smoothness, (mainly unbrushed filament fabric).• Moisture transport that aids coolness and comfort.Microfibres should be finished according to the requirements for the outlet.

Silky soft with stenter finish

Soften to suit and light post brush.

Fluorocarbon / Coating and hot callender.

Fashion softener and stenter finish.

Wool feel soften and shrink press.

Hydrophilic / no softener, light stenter finish.

Spandex safe finish, to suit the target market.

Page 43: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre Processing1. Exhaust Softener Application

(Suitable where a stenter does not have a pad mangle.)

Cool to 40°C, adjust pH if required.Add softener eg : NEARFINISH MR JET 2%Hold 40°C x 20 min.Drop and hydro-extract.Stenter Finish as below.

2. Pad Softener.

(A general process.)

Set Stenter frame for width control.Pad softener @ ~ 60% PU . eg : NEARFINISH M88 30 g/lDry @ ~ 120oC x 30”Heat Set Finish at correct tension @ 160 - 190 oC x 30”

Process

FINISHING 2

Page 44: Micro Fibres Processing. Process Overview 1 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish

Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingNEARFINISH M88 Soft silky handle. High twist

Imitiation Silk.NEARFINISH CF 511 Soft, smooth and dry. Cotton blends.

Elastic Viscose blends.

NEARFINISH MR JET Resilient, soft, warm. Worsted blends.

Elastic Cot / Vis blends.

NAISTAT 1350 Hydrophilic, durable.Technical & Sportswear Antistat, Soil release.Spandex safe.NEARFINISH CF 511 Hydrophilic, dry. Technical & Sportswear

Elastic Spandex safe.

NEARSOPHT BC9 Soft & full cationic. Cotton blends.Spandex safe.

Purpose Finishes

FINISHING 2

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Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingSPANDEX requires special consideration.

No standard NONIONIC EMULSIFIERS should be used inthe finish recipe, including softener emulsions.

FINISHING 3

NEARSOPHT BC9 Low yellowing, full body cationic.Good for cotton application.

NAISTAT 1350 Hydrophylic polyester finish.Antistatic, soil release, durable.(Not for dark shades.)

NEARFINISH CF 511 Hydrophylic elastic silicone.Good for synthetics or cotton towel.

Use NEARCAND LT 75 on Nylon, @ 2 % owf

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Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingFINISHING 4

Nylon Recipe

NEARSOPHT BC9 30 g/lNEARCAND LT 75 20 g/l

Polyester Recipe

NAISTAT 1350 60 g/l For full soil release.or

NEARFINISH CF 511 30 g/l Dry hydrophilic softness. for dark shades.

TC Recipe

NEARSOPHT BC9 15 g/lNAISTAT 1350 20 g/l

orNEARFINISH CF 511 30 g/l for dark shades.

Some General Recipes : Pad @ 60% PU

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Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingProcess Options 1

Light Weight Silk and Rayon Wovens.

Desize / Scour & Relax

Pre Heat Set

Weight Reduce

Dye

Finish with Dry Mild Set

Normal Process

Desize / Scour & Relax

Pre Heat Set

Weight Reduce

Dye

Finish with Dry Mild Set

Simple Process

Desize / Scour & Relax

Weight Reduce

Dye

Finish with Full Heat Set

Very Simple Process

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Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingExample 1Light Weight Silk

Pre-steam if possible.Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2% Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 30”.Wash and scour with

NEARFIL FAC 0.3 g/lNEARPON KR 1 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l

Rinse, and refill.Weight Reduce to calculated %WR.Use accelerant. ~ 1 g/lRinse @ 90 C, then wash @ 95C with

NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/lNEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l

Hot rinse again until neutral.Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l

NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE levelling problems.

RC as for WR Washing.

Finish by padding @ 60% PUNEARFINISH M88 20 g/l

Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40”.

Heat Set improverOil Scorch Protector

Silicone & Set oil Scour system

Dispersing and Washing system.

Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering.

Bodied Finish Softener

Desize / Scour & Relax

Pre Heat Set

Weight Reduce

Dye

Finish with Dry Mild Set

Simple Process

Wash off

RC

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Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingExample 2

Sports Wear - Spandex

Wash, scour and relax withNEARFIL FAC 0.2 g/l NEARPON KR 1 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lLUBRIFIL LAF 1.5 g/l

Rinse, and refill.Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2% Dry @ 120oC then Set at 195oC x 1’.Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l

NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE levelling problems.

Rinse @ 90 C, then RC @ 90 C with

NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/lHot rinse againFinish by exhaust @ 80oC

NAISTAT 1350 4% owf

Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40’.

Heat Set improverOil Scorch Protector

Silicone & Set oil Scour system

Dispersing and Washing system.

Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering.

Soft hydrophilic, soil releaseantistatic finish.

Desize / Scour & Relax

Pre Heat Set

Dye

Finish with Dry Mild Set

Normal Process

RC

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Micro Fibre ProcessingMicro Fibre ProcessingThe Products The Process The AdvantageNEARFIL FAC Dearation No foam wetting. LUBRIFIL LAF Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch

Scour & Dye Scour-Dye & Anticrease

NEARPON KR Scour Efficient Cleaning NEARCHEL TMC Scour Removal of soaps

Dyeing Disaggregator NEARCAND LT 75 Setting & Finish Reduce scorching

Bleach White nylonNEARGAL DN Dyeing Dispersant and cleaner.NEARGAL SD-PE Dyeing Dispersant & Leveler NAISTAT 1350 Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch

Finishing Hydrophilic, soil release

NEARFINISH CF 511 Finishing Hydrophilic, elastic NEARSOPHT BC9 Finishing Full body cationic. NEARFINISH MR JET Finishing Bodied effect.