Mg Segovia

Maribels Guides For The Sophisticated Traveler November 2010

Maribels Guide to Segovia 1

MARIBELS GUIDE TO SEGOVIA

INDEXWeb Resources and Travel Planning - Page 2

Arriving in Segovia Page 3

Transportation Page 3

Sightseeing in Segovia Page 5

The Major Sights Page 7

Festivals in Segovia Page 12

Sightseeing outside of the city Page 13

Overnight in La Granja Page 15

Avila day trip Page 15

Sightseeing in the Segovia province Page 16 Route #1 - The Castle route Page 16

Coca Page 16 Cullar Page 17 Peafiel Page 17 Turgano Page 18

Route #2 - Three Medieval Villages Page 20

Pedraza de la Sierra Page 20 Caicosa-Matabuena Page 23 Riaza Page 24

Seplveda - Page 25

Dining in and around Segovia - Page 28

The big 3 in the City Page 28

For true gourmands and wine lovers Page 30

Ritual roast baby lamb feast in the Province Page 31

For the very adventurous Page 33

The roast lamb and wedding towns Page 34

Lodging in Segovia Page 35

Lodging in the Province Page 39 Pedraza Page 39 In the vicinity of Pedraza Page 41 In the Duratn Page 42



WEB RESOURCES AND TRAVEL PLANNING Information on the web

Info Segovia - infosegovia.com Segovia Turismo - segoviaturismo.es Turismo de Segovia - turismodesegovia.com Turismo Castilla y Leon - turismocastillayleon.com

TRAVEL PLANNING SERVICES

Exclusive Travel Planning Services by Iberian Traveler & Maribel's Guides. Contact Maribel to arrange a custom itinerary for your trip to Spain, Portugal or southwest France...

USA Tel: 206.778.0127 / 206.364.6723



ARRIVING IN SEGOVIA Beautiful, elegant, serene, graceful, light and airy Segovia, the essence of Old Castile, architecturally harmonious with its buildings of warm, honey-colored stone, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. I love this city so much more than somber, brooding, overwhelmingly tourist-driven Toledo, primarily because it impresses as a city with its own vibrant cultural life and economy, a city that does not need or want to depend so heavily on the tourist trade. And tourists visiting Segovia seem to be more easily integrated into the city rather than to overwhelm it. While I admire Toledos architectural and artistic riches, its spectacular setting and its fascinating history of three cultures/religions living together for centuries in relative harmony, I adore Segovia. I highly recommend a day trip to this lovely city, or better still a night or two. If you stay at the 3-star Infanta Isabel (ask for a room with balcony) right on the Plaza Mayor or the new 4-star Palacio de San Facundo (on the quiet square of the same name) youll be within minutes of everything wonderful Segovia has to offer. Plus both have parking for a nominal extra fee.

The Plaza Mayor is a great place to while away the evening surveying the scene at an outdoor terrace, particularly at the Art Nouveau style La Concepcin caf, with a fine restaurant serving non-traditional fare.

TRANSPORTATION Driving to Segovia Segovia lies 58 miles (93 kms) northwest of Madrid, about an hour and a half drive, an easy day trip, but do plan to spend the entire day to do the city justice. The best driving route: Take the A-6 through the Guadarrama tunnel, and then take a right onto N-603. When you arrive youll find metered parking in the blue zone directly in front of the aqueduct but for a maximum of two hours only, not an option for touring and not convenient unless you arrive at noon on Saturday, as parking is free Saturday after 2:00 pm or free all day Sundays and holidays, but then the spaces get filled very quickly. Better to follow the blue P signs to the municipal parking lot near the bus station at Fernndez Larreda. Note: due to current construction in the area below the aqueduct, much of that blue zone parking is now unavailable. Its best to park at the present in the municipal lot.

High-Speed Train The new high- speed rail line from Madrid to Segovia was inaugurated December 22, 07, making this very quick rail journey of around 30 minutes the very best and easiest way now to reach the city. These trains depart from the Chamartn rail station, in the northern section of Madrid rather than from Atocha station where one catches the high-speed lines to Barcelona, Crdoba, Sevilla and Mlaga. There are several different types of trains on this route - the AVANT which runs only to Segovia (like the AVANT to Toledo), the AVE, which travels on to Valladolid and the



Talgo & Alvia trains which go on to northern coastal cities. The latter three offer two classes of service, tourist and preferente (business class). But for the very short ride of a half hour, one doesnt need to purchase the more expensive preferente class seat-tourist class will do just fine. Although quick and very comfortable, you wont be afforded beautiful scenery on this rail journey, as most of the trip is spent passing through three long tunnels. The least expensive and most convenient of these trains is the AVANT, with a flat fare of 9 (like its Toledo cousin) with a round trip discount of 20% bringing the round trip fare

down to 14,40. The ride on the AVANT is as smooth, comfortable and just as quick as the other trains, so if the AVANT train schedule suits you (and most likely it will for your day trip), take the AVANT and save a few euros. For a full day, I suggest departing on the 8:50 am AVANT and returning on the AVANT at 5:00 pm. Or if youre a late

sleeper and only wish to hit the highlights, depart on the AVANT at 10:35 am. You can see the schedule, purchase your tickets and print them at: www.renfe.es. When choosing your destination, make sure to select Segovia-Guiomar rather than Segovia, as the high-speed trains all arrive at the new Guiomar station built exclusively for the high-speed line. There are still slow (2+hr.) Regional trains that run to Segovias in-town station. See my Tutorial on how to Purchase Train Tickets Online. Also remember that if you select a departure or return one of the other trains, the AVE, Talgo or Alvia, you should purchase two one-way tourist class fares, choosing the deeply discounted (60% off) WEB fare, of 8,60 rather than the regular 20,40 fare. These WEB discounts arent available with a round trip purchase. And these WEB fares must be purchased a minimum of 15 days in advance. They sell out quickly and are non-changeable, non-refundable, whereas AVANT tickets dont have any advance purchase requirements. At the station some sort of identification is required (but agents at times dont bother to check), so its best to bring along a photo I.D. along with your ticket print out. Again, you will arrive at the new Segovia-Guiomar AVE station, which has been built in a field, in the middle of nowhere, 4 kms outside the city. You will find bus #11 waiting for you. Take it (fare: 0,82) and the bus will drop you off directly in front of the aqueduct. Before you leave the station, note the bus schedule for your return, or print a copy from here: www.urbanosdesegovia.com/index2.htm At the top click on Mapas de Lneas y Horarios, then select lnea 11. The bus ride from station to aqueduct takes 15-20 minutes. Taxi fare runs about 8.



Bus Since the December 07 inauguration of the high-speed train line, I have switched my allegiance from bus to train because it gets me there in quickly and in style. However, La Sepulvedana still offers frequent departures to Segovia from their new location in the Intercambiador de Transportes (transportation hub) at Prncipe Po station on Paseo de la Florida (take circular, gray metro line 6). To reach the Intercambiador, take the metro to Principe Po and leave the station by the main escalator. At the top of the escalator walk across the hall and go down the bus terminal escalator, all clearly marked. On reaching the bottom of the first escalator find the Sepulvedana ticket office and purchase a round trip ticket to Segovia. Seats are assigned.

It should be noted that on arrival at the Segovia bus terminal the return ticket should be surrendered at the ticket office there in exchange for another one showing the time of departure for the return trip. The ride takes 1 hrs. (if the traffic is light, 15 minutes less) and drops passengers at the Segovia bus station on Paseo Ezequiel Gonzlez, which is a short and pleasant walk from the Aqueduct. The bus fare costs 12,86 round trip-some 2 euros less than the 30 min. high-speed train. See the schedule at: lasepulvedana.es

SIGHTSEEING IN SEGOVIA On at the aqueduct square, the Plaza del Azoguejo, your first stop should be at the newly expanded Tourist Office, the Centro de Recepcin de Visitantes, which has audio visual displays, a mock up of the city, has plenty of brochures (sites, lodging, restaurants), posters for purchase, guided tours of the city (in high season, depending on demand, some are given in English), even a tasteful museum-type store for a souvenir or two. The center is open daily from 10:00 8:00.

The tourist office offers two guided visits: 1. Segovia, Patrimony of Humanity to the principal monuments of the city for a

fee of 10 (children under 12 for 5), departs daily in summer, Holy Week and holidays and only on Sat/Sun during the remainder of the year. Tour departs at 11:00 am.

2. Sephardic Segovia, visiting the Jewish quarter and the Center for Sephardic studies. The 3-hour visit departs at 4:30 pm daily during Holy Week, holidays and during the summer, Saturdays during only the rest of the year.



THE MAJOR SIGHTS Cathedral A hodgepodge of styles (the typical Spanish architectural mess) but primarily late Flamboyant Gothic, the last great Gothic cathedral built in Spain, begun in 1525 by Juan Gil de Hontan (the architect of Salamancas new cathedral) and completed 65 years later. The first chapel on the right (#1) has an altarpiece of the burial of Christ by my favorite Baroque sculptor/painter, Juan de Juni. The cathedral boasts elaborate choir stalls and a Hispano-Flemish Gothic cloister. The cathedral museum, Museo Catedralicio, houses 17th century Flemish tapestries, gold and silver chalices, monstrances, 16th century paintings (works by Van Eyck) and other treasures.

Cathedral hours: Fall - Winter 9:30 - 5:30. Spring - Summer 9:30 6:30 daily. Sundays, holidays: 9:30 - 1:15.

Museum hours: Open daily; April - October from 9:30 - 6:30, November March from 9:30 - 5:30. Admission: 3.

The Roman Aqueduct 800 meters in length, 29 meters in height, built in the first century, A.D., probably on the orders of the Roman Emperor Trajan, is constructed of granite blocks, an engineering marvel, the blocks having been put together without one ounce of mortar or metal



clamps. Its the largest and best preserved in Spain from the Roman Empire. It once transported water from 15 kilometers away and was used up until the 19th century. Several years ago, it went through a billion-peseta renovation to make it last another few thousand years or so.

Alczar The fairy tale, Disney-esque, elegant and graceful castile, the official residence of Queen Isabellas father, Juan II and brother Enrique IV, and where Isabella was proclaimed Queen of Castile in 1474, where she and Ferdinand first met, where Columbus came to receive the financing for his venture. Inside its been quite heavily restored due to a fire in 1862 when it was a military school, and the results are a bit ersatz. However, highlights include the authentic looking Throne Room, where above the thrones of the Catholic monarchs youll see the words Tanto Monta, meaning that Isabella held as much power in Aragn as Ferdinand in Castile, in other words, equal sovereignty, a room with an elaborately carved and gilded ceiling dripping with pineapple shaped stalactites (la Sala de las Pias) and an artillery museum plus the tower with its 150 huff and puff steps. If you have the energy, the views are more than



worth the workout. Longish but very doable walk down the very narrow Calle Daoz from the Plaza Mayor. Very, very crowded on weekends/holidays. Go early before the tour busses arrive. Takes 45 minute to tour. Entrance fee: 4. Visit to the tower: 2 Guide: 1.

Open daily: Fall Winter 10:00 - 6:00, except Friday & Saturday in October when it is open from 10:00 7:00. Also open Spring-Summer from 10:00 7:00.

Check current schedule at: www.alcazardesegovia.com.

The lovely Romanesque churches Iglesia de San Esteban, which has a Byzantine tower, one of the highest and best

in all of Spain. San Milln, from the 12th century, the best example of Segovian Romanesque, is

located outside the walls near the public car park at Av. Fernndez Ladreda. Iglesia de San Clemente, along Fernndez Ladreda. Iglesia de San Martn, halfway up the pedestrian thoroughfare (Calle Cervantes),

which runs from the Aqueduct to the Plaza Mayor.

Youll notice on your walk up to the Plaza Mayor the unusual Moorish plaster wall decorations on the buildings, called esgrafiado, typical of Segovia. Some say graffiti came from the term. These churches are open only during worship services except during the summer and Holy Week, when they open from 11:00 - 2:00 and 4:30 - 7:30.

Museo de Arte Contemporneo Esteban Vicente If you enjoy contemporary art, youll surely enjoy a visit to this very interesting Museum behind Plaza San Martn. In its 10th year of existence, it is currently undergoing a major expansion while it remains open to the public (museoestebanvicente.es). Esteban Vicente, born in Turgano, who became an America citizen and died in Long Island in 2001, was an abstract expressionist and a member of the New York School and a friend of Pollack, De Kooning and Rothko and greatly influenced by Mir. He donated a wonderful collection of his works to create this museum, housed in a beautiful 15th century palace. The museum also displays fine special exhibits, such as a fall - winter 08 Last works: from Titian to Tpies and a recent The Circus in Spanish Art, with works of Picasso. Cost: 2.40.

Open: Tuesday - Wednesday from 11:00 2:00 and 4:00 7:00. Thursday - Friday from 11:00 to 2:00 and 4:00 - 8:00. Saturday from 11:00 - 8:00. Sunday and holidays from 11:00 - 3:00. Special holiday hours October 12, November 1, December 6 and 8 from 11:00 -

2:00 and 4:00 - 8:00.



Closed Mondays + December 25, January 1, May 1 Free on Thursdays

Museo Zuloaga A museum for lovers of ceramics, housed in the oldest church of Segovia, San Juan de los Caballeros, on the Plaza de Colmenares. Here youll find 70 ceramic works by Daniel Zuloaga, uncle of Spanish Post-Impressionist Ignacio Zuloaga along with paintings and drawings by both artists. Admission: 1.20 Open:

July 1 - September 30, Tuesday - Saturday from 10:00 - 2:00 and 5:00 8:00. Rest of year, Tuesday - Saturday 10:00 - 2:00 and 4:00 - 7:00. Sundays and holidays from 10:00 - 2:00. Free on Saturday & Sunday Closed Mondays

La Judera In the Old Jewish quarter, wander the back streets below the main pedestrian thoroughfare to explore Sephardic Segovia. It can be found from Judera Nueva Street down to the Plaza de Socorro then up Martnez Campos to Judera Vieja Street. In the 1400s it had five synagogues (none remains) and a cemetery. They have opened a Sephardic center in this quarter, which is included in the Visit #2, offered by the tourist office. This Sephardic Center, Centro Didctico de la Judera gives visitors the opportunity to take a virtual tour of Segovias ancient Jewish culture-its calendar, its religious practices, its writing, form of life and customs. Theres also a small gift shop specializing in Sephardic products. Admission: 1,50. Open:

October - June: 10:00 2:00 and 4:00 - 7:00. July - September: 10:00 2:00 and 4:00 - 7:30. Closed Monday afternoons and Tuesdays Free on Thurs.

House-Museum of Antonio Machado For those who love the works of this Generation of 1898 poet, his home, where he lived from 1919 - 1932 when professor of French at the University, is open to visits via guided tour. A very modest abode, its maintained exactly the way it was inhabited by the poet, with the original humble furnishings. Guided visits at 11:00, noon, 1:00, 4:30, 5:30 and 6:30. Open Wednesday - Saturday only. Free on Wednesday. Admission: 1,50.

A couple of other very worthy sights below the city to consider When leaving Segovia, dont forget to drive down (direction: to the north towards Santa Mara de Nieva) below the city, following signs from the aqueduct square on your right towards La Fuencisla (pink sign) to the confluence of the 2 rivers, the Eresma and the



Clamores, where youll see a picnic area/park and usually kids playing soccer in the field. Follow the signs (if you see them) to the merendero (picnic area) or follow the ruta turstica or vista panormica. Park your car where the children play soccer at the rivers edge and take that quintessential, perfect picture postcard photo of the Alczar floating above you. This is a magical moment, particularly at sunset. Unforgettable, and most tourists miss this entirely. Segovia is actually shaped like an ocean liner (its nickname being the Stone Ship), long and narrow, protected by the two rivers on either side and anchored on a rocky outcrop above the plain, the Alczar being the prow of the ship, the cathedral the mast, the Aqueduct the stern.

Looking north from the Alczar toward Iglesia de la Vera Cruz

While youre in this area, follow the road to Zamarramala (Arvalo) to find the lovely twelve sided, 13th century Iglesia de la Vera Cruz- said to have been originally founded by the Knights Templar, it now belonging to the Order of Knights of Malta and built on the pattern of the church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem with a circular nave. Inside there is a two story inner chamber in the center where Templar secret rituals supposedly took place. This church is somber and mysterious and totally unique. On Good Friday at nightfall, the Order of Malta knights celebrate a candlelight procession from the church up to the village of Zamarramala. At one time the church held a piece of the True Cross (thus the name La Vera Cruz), but it was moved to Zamarramala.

Closed Mondays, but open Tuesday - Sunday from 10:30 - 1:30 and again from 3:30 7:00 (closes at 6:00 pm in the fall/winter). Tariff: 1.75

Go back to the main road and follow the Eresma River upstream to the Monasterio de Santa Mara del Parral, occupied by the Hieronymite order. The main reason to stop



here and ring the doorbell is for the daily mass with Gregorian chant at 1 p.m. and at noon on Sundays and holidays. Guided visits are free, but one should make a donation. If you find yourself in Segovia during Holy Week, youll find a popular late evening mass (11:30 pm) on Holy Saturday.

Open: Tuesday from 4:00 - 7:00, Wednesday-Sunday from 10:00 - 2:00 and 4:00 - 7:00. Closed Mondays.

Down in the river area theres also a caf/restaurant in neighboring Zamarramala, La Postal, right beyond the Carmelite Convent on the highway. We drive here for the panoramic views. Drive across the highway on to the meadow for spectacular photo ops of the city. Unforgettable vistas.

FESTIVALS IN SEGOVIA The festivals of San Juan and San Pedro, held between June 24th and the 29th, include fireworks, concerts, dances and at least one, if not two major bullfights, part of a two-day Feria de San Pedro, with Spains leading matadors, which the King and his daughter usually attend. Check the schedule the week before at: portaltaurino.com/segovia/segovia_index.htm

The feast day of Segovias patron saint, San Frutos, is celebrated on October 25th. The International Puppet Theater Festival, Titirimundi, takes place on the Plaza Mayor in May. Enjoy the Music and Dance Festival, with performances held in the Teatro Juan Bravo on the Plaza Mayor, in July. The unique festival of Las guedas in Zumarramala is held on the Sunday following Feb. 5. It has been declared a festival of National Tourist Merit. This almost 800 year tradition dictates that the married and widowed women of the village have the privilege of governing the town for 24 hours, and two village women are named co-mayors, alcaldesas, for the day. This festival in honor of Santa gueda (Saint Agnes) is celebrated with a procession carrying the image of the saint, with the village women all dressed in native costume, followed by a solemn mass (the priest being the only male allowed to walk in the procession), ritual dances (only the women can participate), a burning of the pelele, a straw figure representing men, and food stands are placed around the church for participants to partake of tajada, a sausage braised in white wine. If a man of the village attempts to participate in the celebration, he is surrounded by the women and poked with knitting needles call men-killers, matahombres. The same happens to any foreigner who isnt willing to pay the toll or peaje collected by the women as a fee to partake of the festivities! The religious processions during Holy Week (Semana Santa) have been declared of Regional Tourist Merit and are more solemn, somber than their counterparts in southern Spain. On Palm Sunday there is a special concert in the cathedral, and the first



procession of the week begins from the cathedral at 12:30 pm followed by a procession each day. The religious fervor of Holy Week reaches its zenith on Maundy Thursday in the evening to Good Friday, when there are several daily processions, culminating with the final Resurrection of Jesus procession beginning at 11:45 am on Easter Sunday, ending in the cathedral. See www.semanasantasegovia.com then click on procesiones for the 08 schedule and photos of the processions. During Holy Week all of the citys churches and monasteries are open to visitors to contemplate the beautifully decorated floats or pasos that will be carried in the weeks processions. Holy Week opening hours are from 10:00-2:00 and 4:00-7:00.

SIGHTSEEING OUTSIDE THE CITY The Royal Route The Bourbon dynasty 18th century Baroque-Rococo palace of San Ildefonso de la Granja is located eleven kilometers from Segovia on the N-601. This is truly a must-see monument. Along with the Bourbon Palace of Aranjuez, it was built as a miniature Spanish Versailles, and its easily tour-able, as its on a small scale and feels quite homey. It was a conceived as summer palace for the Bourbon kings to relax and escape the intense Castilian heat. It was commissioned in 1721 by Felipe V, grandson of Louis XIV, and Spains first Bourbon king and is a blend of Spanish Baroque and French Neoclassical styles. It was used as a summer palace for Felipes successors until the reign of Alfonso XIII. Felipe V and wife are buried here rather than at the Royal Pantheon in El Escorial. The interior has been lavishly restored and the Flemish tapestries, which you can see on your own in an annex, are worth the trip alone. Many date back to the reign of Charles V. Some of these tapestries went on tour in 02 at a special exhibit at New Yorks Met. Note: The Tapestry Museum is currently closed for renovation. Some of these tapestries are on display at Madrids Royal Palace in a special free exhibit, Threads of Splendor: Tapestries of the Baroque, running until June 1. The visits to the royal apartments with their stunning crystal chandeliers produced in the local royal glass factory are by bilingual guided tour that lasts under an hr. and costs 5, and the tour is actually quite informative.

After your visit you can wander through the majestic formal gardens and exquisite fountains at your leisure. Unfortunately, the entire collection of 26 elaborately designed fountains, based on classic mythology, only are allowed to perform a three times a year, at 5:30 pm on May 30, July 25 and August 25. But four of these fountains are turned on for exactly ten minutes at 5:30 pm on Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday and holidays in the spring (starting usually on Maundy Thursday), summer and fall if water supply permits (but in July and August the water supply may be too low to allow for their display). Admission to the fountain water show is 3.40.

The palace is closed Mondays when only the gardens are open. I strongly advise being at the door at 10:00 am to catch the first guided tour!!



Opening hours for palace visits: October - March:

Tuesday Saturday from 10:00 - 1:30 and 3:00 - 7:00 Sundays and holidays from 10:00 - 2:00

April September: Tuesday Sunday from 10:00 8:00

Opening hours for garden visits: November - February from 10:00 - 6:00 October and March from 10:00 - 6:30 April from 10:00 - 7:00 May, June 1-14 and September from 10:00 - 8:00 June 15-30, July and August from 10:00 - 9:00

See pictures of the extraordinary gardens at patrimonionacional.es/granja/granja.htm

Near the palace is the Royal Glass Factory of La Granja, the Museo del Vidrio de la Real Fbrica de Cristales de la Granja. You can watch a demonstration of glass blowing, purchase an item in the shop and tour the crystal gallery, containing crystal from La Granja Palace from the 18th and 19th centuries and other European bottles and glass items from the 16th century. Cost: 3,50 (www.fcnv.es)

Opening hours: June 15 September 14:

Tuesday - Friday from 10:00 - 6:00 Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 10:00 - 7:00

September 15 - June 14: Tuesday Saturday from 10:00 - 6:00 Sundays and holidays from 10:00 - 3:00

Closed Mondays and September 29, December 25, January 1 and 6

To visit San Ildefonso La Granja by public transportation from Segovia, you must take a La Sepulvedana bus from the station at Ezequiel Gonzlez 12. Currently there is a departure at 10:30 arriving at 10:50 and returns to Segovia in the afternoon at 2, 3:30, 4:30, 5:15, 6 and 7:30. One-way fare: 10. Check: www.lasepulvedana.es.

For lunch in the area, particularly in warm weather, if you have a car, I suggest that you head to Valsan on the CL 601, km. 124, to locally famous and family run La Hilaria. They serve a full lunch men del da for 25 and run a little 15-room rural hotel as well. (www.eljardindehilaria.com).



OVERNIGHT IN LA GRANJA Although La Granja and Segovia are next-door neighbors (only 11 km apart), lovers of Spains Parador system might enjoy the bragging rights of spending a night in the newest Parador in the network at La Granja. It was inaugurated in June of 07 by King Juan Carlos, and is part of the Bourbon palace complex, a 35-million Euro re-conversion of the 1770 Casa de los Infantes. This new Parador has 127 large rooms, including 14 suites, a spa, indoor paddle court, putting green, 2 pools (one heated, part of the spa complex and one outdoors, not heated), a solarium and state-of-the-art convention center in a separate building, the former Royal Guard barracks. Early reports snipe about the poor signage (very difficult to find), the lack of parking directly in front of the hotel and the service, but the breakfast buffet gets rave reviews. You may want to wait a while longer for the staff to polish its service and iron out the kinks. I think the faux mosquito netting over some of the beds strikes an odd note, but the rest of the guest quarters design, in soft tones of grey and white, is quite modern-stylish. I would book a night or two here only at a special promotional rate of 110 from Sunday to Thursday or book on the 5-night plan. Look for specials at: www.parador.es.

A DAY TRIP TO AVILA The Auto-Res bus company runs daily bus service from Segovia to the walled city of Avila (which also boasts a lovely Parador). Currently there is a 10:30 am departure arriving at 11:25 am and afternoon returns at 3:00 and 7:00. Round trip ticket costs about 8. You can purchase your ticket online at: www.auto-res.net. Once in the walled city, you should first visit the cathedral, a late Romanesque-Early Gothic construction with its sanctuary built into a section of the medieval city walls, making it a defensive fortress. Inside youll find a magnificent altarpiece, a museum of religious art, and in the ambulatory a delicate and beautiful alabaster tomb of El Tostado, Alonso de Madrigal, the 15th century writer and Bishop of Avila. Cost: 3.

Opening hours: November 1 - March 3: Monday - Friday 10:00 5:00, Saturday 10:00 6:00 and

Sunday and holidays from 12:00 5:00 April, June, October: Monday - Friday 10:00 6:00, Saturday 10:00 7:00 and

Sunday and holidays from 12:00 6:00

Make sure to walk a portion of Avilas 11th century defensive walls. These walls, 2-1/2 kilometers in length, with 88 defensive towers and 9 gates constitute the best-preserved example of military architecture of Spains Romanesque period. To walk a portion of these walls is an experience not to be missed! Theyre open Tuesday through Sunday; April 1 October 16 from 11:00 6:00, October 17 - March 30 from 11:00 - 5:15. Closed Mondays. Admission: 3,50 For more information about the city and its patrimony, see www.avilaturismo.com



SIGHTSEEING IN THE SEGOVIA PROVINCE Theres plenty to see here of merit, from medieval castles to Bourbon dynasty palaces to well preserved medieval villages to exquisite Romanesque churches. In fact the province has so many hidden treasures, that a visitor could easily spend 3-5 days discovering and savoring them. Segovia province is my very favorite in all of Castile. Below youll find my two favorite daylong touring routes in the province, north of the capital.

See all your touring options on the English page of the web site of the Tourist Board of Castilla-Len at www.turismocastillayleon.com

ROUTE 1 - THE CASTLE ROUTE From Segovia depart on the C-605 to Santa Mara la Real, taking the SG-341 to Coca. A full daylong loop could be Segovia Coca Cullar Peafiel - Turgano. One could also do the castles of Coca-Cullar-Peafiel-Turgano from Avila if staying at its Parador, and from Segovia, do the Pedraza-Riaza-Duratn gorge-Seplveda tourist route. About Segovias mudjar designed castles: The term mudjar refers to the Muslims who remained in Castile after the Re-conquest and worked as architects under Christian rule-their art characterized by Islamic horseshoe arches and geometric designs in brick.

COCA The granddaddy of these Mudjar-designed castles is the rose-colored brick castle of Coca of typical Hispano-Arab military design, built in the mid fifteenth century for the formidable Fonseca family (Castiles Medicis). Although it never saw a single battle, it was sacked during the War of Independence by Napoleons troops - just spectacular, 4-stars. Opening hours: Fall and winter:

Monday - Friday from 10:30 - 1:00 and 4:30 - 6:00. Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 11:00 - 1:00 and 4:30 6:00

Spring and summer Monday - Friday from 10:30 - 1:00 and 4:30 - 7:00 Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 11:00 - 1:00 and 4:30 7:00 Closed first Tuesday of every month

45-minute guided visits only. Costs 2,50

From Coca, take the back road through Fuente el Olmo de Iscar up to the C-111 where youll turn right (east) to Cullar.



CULLAR Here youll want to pay a visit to the 15th century Ducal Palace-Castle of the Duque of Albuquerque. Although you can see its 4-star majestic Renaissance exterior year around, during the week from October to June it functions as a high school. From June 1 - September 30 its open to the public on Monday to Friday from 10:30 - 2:00 and 4:30 - 7:30. On weekends and holidays it closes at 8:00 pm. It is another castle that was sacked by Napoleons troops and during the Spanish Civil War it functioned as a tuberculosis hospital. See pictures at: www.castillosdejirm.com. Again, guided visits only on weekends when guides also do a two-hour tour-theatrical spectacle, for those with a prior reservation. If you would like to experience this, have your hotel call ahead to (+34) 921 142 203. Cost is 6,70.

There are also three important churches in the town of Cullar built in the brick mudjar style: San Martn (which has a centro de interpretacin del mudjar, an audiovisual guide to this distinctive architecture), San Esteban and San Andrs, which are all located around the castle.

Cullars other claim to fame-the hosting of the oldest encierros (Running of the Bulls, Pamplona style) in Spain, celebrated on the last Sunday in August ever since 1499. Notice the statue of a bull runner on the square. These encierros are also Spains longest, lasting a full hour, while Pamplonas last only from 2 to 3 minutes on the average.

If you arrive in Cullar at lunchtime, the Hostal Mesn San Francisco, on the main drag, route N-601, is THE place to dine (hmsanfrancisco.com). Its specialties include puff pastry filled with leeks, hojaldre de puerros, foie, duck confit in orange sauce and a dessert of hazelnut crme with dark chocolate and of course, roast lamb. It offers a set priced lunch for only 12 and 29 inexpensive bedrooms in the inn. Tel: (+34) 921 140 009. After Cullar you leave the Segovia province on the SG-223 entering the Valladolid province on the VA-223, which will take you directly to Peafiel.

PEAFIEL The enormous and powerful 10th century Castle of Peafiel (castle of the faithful rock), another 4-star, looms imposingly above the town of the same name and looks like a giant shipwreck (www.museodelvinodevalladolid.es). Although much of the inside is devoted to a very expensively designed Wine Museum to showcase the fine wines of this Ribera del Duero region, you can opt for the guided tour only (but in Spanish) of the castle itself and skip the wine museum. Groups form frequently because its one of the most visited monuments in the Valladolid province, and you dont need to follow your guide, just look around on your own, but the guided tour is your only option to get up to



the top for the views of Peafiel. While the castle is usually closed on Monday, if you visit during Holy Week it may be open. Normal hours are Tuesday Sunday from 11:30 am - 2:30 and from 4:30 - 8:30. The guided tour lasts only thirty minutes, and for those who dont speak Spanish, brochures are provided in English. There are tremendous views of the town below and the Castilian plain from the high ramparts. Terrific!

Once you reach the top, note to your left within the town below a small square, the Plaza del Coso filled with sand and surrounded by two-story balconied houses. In medieval times the owners of the homes sold viewing rights for the balconies to other villagers so as to view the jousting tournaments in the square. This custom still remains; so all the houses in the square have dual ownership, the actual owners of the dwellings themselves and the owners with the balcony viewing rights. During fiestas of Nuestra Seora y San Roque, August14-18, they still celebrate these medieval jousting tournaments and novice bullfights in the sandy square.

This prosperous and atmospheric town is quite interesting to visit. Market day is Thursday. If you need sustenance while in Peafiel, try the Asador Mauro on Calle Ataranzanas (closed Tuesdays) on the road leading up to the castle (www.asadosmauro.com), or a local hangout, the Molino de Palacios (molinodepalacios.com), on Avenida de la Constitucin 16 in a pretty 16th century stone flour mill overlooking the Duratn river with a 15 men del da (closed Sunday night, Mondays and from Christmas through January15). The mill and its female chef were featured in a Travel & Leisure article about touring the Ribera del Duero wine-producing region. It offers a menu in English. Both restaurants serve the ubiquitous roast baby lamb, wild mushrooms and home made desserts, and both belong to the Association of Asadores de Lechazo of Castilla-Len. From Peafiel youll return to Cullar in the Segovia province where you will turn east on the C-112 to Cantalejo, then south on the C-603 for the final visit to Turgano.

TURGANO This is the final town for castle aficionados, where the medieval rose-colored castle was built on the remains of an Arab fortification. Its a box of surprises because inside the castle walls youll find not the usually Patio de Armas but instead the Romanesque



church of San Miguel Arcngel from the 12th century, to which military elements were added in the 15th century. Then the Baroque belfry was added in the 18th century.

If youre hungry, the family-run Hostal El Zagun (el-zaguan.com) on the Plaza Mayor is a great place to stop with a varied menu including fish, also a bargain men del da. They also offer pleasant and inexpensive rooms. Ive recommended it to those on a budget who cant find lodgings available in Segovia city or just want to stay in the countryside in style but for a low tariff. Its a member of the Estancias de Espaa group, a kind of poor mans Parador system, whose properties weve enjoyed in Cantabria, Picos de Europa and Santiago de Compostela. (10% discount to holders of Estancia de Espaas frequent guest card). Also recommended in Alistair Sawdays Special Places to Stay/Spain. It gets superb reviews on toprural.com. Guest quarters have telephones TV, a/c, and some rooms have castle views. This is quite a nice little inn for the price.

We have done this castle route from our perch at the Posada del Duratn in tiny Seblcor in early November (www.posadadelduraton.com). We combined our castle touring with a walk to the Hermitage of San Frutos in the Las Hoces del Ro Duratn Nature Park.



ROUTE 2: THE MEDIEVAL VILLAGES A tour of three charming medieval villages and the Duratn Nature Park/Canyon: Segovia Pedraza Riaza Seplveda - Hoces del Duratn This full day driving tour can most easily be accomplished with an overnight in Pedraza, one of Spains most perfectly preserved and highly photographed medieval villages-the set of movies and the place of dreams. You can reach this charmer in about an hour-its 35 km. northeast of the capital following the N 110. I highly encourage you to include an overnight (or even two) in this most delightful of little towns in your Spain itinerary! In fact, it makes a perfect final stop for rest and relaxation after a long tour before heading home. The drive from the village to Madrids Barajas airport takes only about an hour and 20 minutes, so if you have an early afternoon flight, you can spend your last night in Spain in this magical spot and take away lasting memories.

About Pedraza(www.pedrazainfo.com) a slight digression from the driving tour.

PEDRAZA DE LA SIERRA This picturesque village gets every Spaniards vote as the most beautiful, movie-set perfect, dramatically situated small village in Spain that appears high on the arid plain, above the River Cega, frozen in time in the 16th century. Its a fortified fortress town and the supposed birthplace of Emperor Trajan, complete with castle surrounded by moat, with a single entrance through a medieval gate and a picture-perfect irregularly shaped square (where novice bullfights, novilladas, are still held in early September), with Renaissance homes with their ancient wooden doors, iron balconies and family coats of arms intact. This striking square is filled with yantares, or roasting taverns, where Madrid denizens flock to on weekends for the ritual roast lamb feast, to shop at the sophisticated boutiques, to buy custom-made Castilian furniture, pewter and antiques and to spend a romantic weekend in one of the atmospheric, designer decorated inns. I cant describe adequately just how atmospheric and relaxing this little gem of a village is, but it may appear to you quite sleepy mid-week.

Pedraza only comes alive on weekends and holidays and does so with a vengeance. The silent little hamlet you experience on Friday night, once the day-trippers move in and tour bus or two arrive, gets filled to the rafters just explodes, on Saturday and Sunday afternoons. On a recent two-night stay, we could hardly believe the difference when we



returned from our excursion to the country on Saturday at 5:00 pm, to find the parking lots overflowing, streets jammed with visitors staggering out of the dozen restaurants after devouring their succulent roast lamb. In the 16th century Pedraza became the residence of several noblemen of the powerful House of Velasco, and the village began to fill up with noble homes covered with coats of arms. The village reached its moment of splendor in the 16th and 17th centuries thanks of the wool trade. The woolen workshops of Pedraza became famous in all of Europa and provided the Castilian merino wool to the tapestry looms of Bruege and Florence.

And speaking of that ritual roast lamb feast, there are a dozen restaurants in this tiny town where one can sample this unique culinary delight. We enjoy this hearty meal most at the Yantar de Pedraza right on the square. Although it does have a printed menu, all diners seem to order the same meal: the house salad or a plate of white asparagus, the famed lechazo, a forequarter of suckling lamb, served in a terra cotta cazuela, a clay carafe of Cariena red wine (although other wines are available by the bottle), crusty bread, pan de pueblo and a homemade ice cream goblet for dessert. For weekends, reservations are absolutely of the essence, especially if you want to secure one of the 4 or 5 highly coveted tables for two on the upstairs balcony. This delightful, quintessentially Segovian

roasting tavern is a member of the Association of Asadores de Lechazo de Castilla y Len, always a good sign (www.yantardepedraza.com). Its open for lunch only from 1:45 - 4:30. Tel: (+34) 921 509 842. Closed Monday except for holidays and August; closed 2nd and 3rd weeks of June. After a long, leisurely lunch that may last until 6:00 pm, head over to the highly atmospheric 150 year-old Taberna de don Mariano (belonging to the family who owns the Posada de Mariano),

Pedrazas oldest and most character-filled bar, across the square for a cozy post-dinner coffee or drink by the fireplace. (Youll see a sign that says vinos above the open entrance, then as you go through the huge entryway theres a sign above the door to your left that indicates the tavern). In warm weather you can have your vinito on the wooden bench out on the square.

Or do a little gift shopping (On weekends the shops usually dont close until 8:00 pm or later). Pedraza is renowned among the cognoscenti as the best place in the province to do high quality gift shopping. For gourmet goodies (oils, vinegars, sweets, tinned vegetables) and local wines go to Atalantar on Calle Real; for prints and original paintings of the town, stop in at Snchez Muoz on the Calle Mayor near the Posada de Mariano; for scented candles look for Ms que velas across the street; for artisanal breads, puff pastry, ponche segoviano and soplillos (extremely light treats made of egg yolk, wheat flour, oil and sugar that melt in your mouth) head to the bakery



extraordinaire, La Tahona (www.latohona.net), Calle Calzada,4, whose products are also sold at Atalantar. For striking hand-crafted dinner plates, coasters, pitchers, candelabras and other decorative items all made of pewter, which make fine wedding gifts, head straight to Estaos de Pedraza (www.estaosdepedraza.com) at Calle Calzada, 9; for cute toys, stop in at Crepundia at number 9 on the Plaza Mayor and for scented candles at Ms Que Velas on Calle Mayor. Muebles Artesanos, Calzada, 12, has been providing well-to-do madrileos their hand-carved rustic Castilian furniture for years. And next door, at number 8, a shop housed in a three-story barn-like home, De Natura is where their decorators shop for embroidery, blankets, country dishware, candles and other home decorating items straight out of House & Garden.

If you happen to land in Pedraza between Wednesday and Sunday, youll have the chance to view the inside of the Castle (via guided tour, but a very short one), said to be one of the most impregnable in its time in all of Spain and one of the oldest in all of Europe. Once inside the caretaker will allow you to view two rooms filled with paintings by Ignacio Zuloaga, the Basque post-impressionist and friend of ToulouseLautrec. Hes one of my favorite Spanish impressionist painters (dark and brooding, but a fascinating portrait artist much like John Singer Sargeant). In 1926 Zuloaga acquired the castle, then in ruins and abandoned and restored one of the towers to use as his atelier. Upon his death his descendents took it over and restored the second tower as a small museum to house the familys art collection (a Goya and an El Greco among their possessions) and the paintings of Zuloaga, which rotate between here and the Zuloaga Museum in Zumaia in the Basque Country. The castle now is run by the Zuloaga foundation.

Open from Wednesday to Sunday, 11:00 - 2:00 and from 5:00 8:00, and in winter from 4:00 - 6:30. Entrance fee: 5, but inquire at the tourist office regarding the times of the guided tours (www.ignaciozuloaga.com). Also, the medieval city jail, Crcel de la Villa, is open most of the year only on Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 11:30 - 2:00 and 3:30 - 7:30. But from July 15 - August 31 it opens daily from 11:30 - 2:00 and 4:00 - 7:30. Another required guided tour that will show you the ancient dungeons, but very fast. Entrance: 2.50 Pedrazas local fiestas are held September 7-12, in honor of la Virgen del Carrascal with the procession carrying the image of the virgin on the 8th, on the 9th the town celebrates its encierros, bringing the herd of young bulls to be fought that afternoon up from their grazing land and through the village. On the 9th and 10th bullfights take place in the square, and on the final day of the fiesta, the 12th a gigantic caldereta, lamb stew, is prepared on the square for the enjoyment of all. On the first two Saturdays in July, Pedraza celebrates its nationally renowned Noche de las Velas when 35,000 candles illuminate the town, and classical music concerts are celebrated both inside the castle and on the Plaza Mayor. This is a truly magical experience! For evening dining in Pedraza I also like the pretty, very friendly, family owned La Olma. Its not on the square, but housed in a lovely 16th century mansion on the Plaza del Alamo near the parking lot. It has an printed menu (posted at the door) that offers



diners other gastronomic delights beyond the ubiquitous roast lamb and suckling pig. The restaurant is a member of the Confrrie de la Chane de Rtisseurs and his and his wifes creations are far more gourmet than the usual roasting tavern fare, and the service is most attentive. Upstairs dining, with well spaced tables. We enjoyed dinner there on a Saturday night off -season and were impressed with our starter of white bean stew (judiones de la Granja) and main courses of loin of venison in a chestnut puree and crayfish wine. Delicious desserts include crepes filled with homemade turrn ice cream. We chose a red Valtravieso Crianza from the Ribera de Duero region to accompany the venison. Our total for three courses each, plus bread, mineral water, coffee and wine, came to 80. The Hospedera de Santo Domingo sends their guests here. This is a great bet on a Saturday or Sunday night when many of the traditional roasting taverns, such as El Yantar, are closed.

See photos of the dining rooms and peruse the menu (in Spanish only) at: www.laolma.com Closed Tuesday, except in summer, and the 2nd half of September. Recommended in the Jaguar, Gourmetour and Campsa Guides.

CAICOSA-MATABUENA Located just 4 kms outside of Pedraza, in the tiny village of Caicosa-Matabuena, youll find one of the finest gourmet dining spots in the province, the Codex Calixtinus***, well worth the very short detour (www.restaurante-calixtinus.es) Its been honored with 1 sol, equivalent to a Michelin star, in the dependable Campsa guide and has been given a rating of 7/10 in the 08 Gourmetour. Chef Juan Manuel Petrel brings you highly imaginative cuisine, with beautiful presentations, not your traditional roast-driven menu. His degustation menu costs only 39. This is a special place for romantic dining, with a fireplace, stonewalls, soft lighting and background music. And the chef offers a 250 bottle wine list. The downstairs is reserved for sampling wines and tapas or small plates, and picnic tables are set outside in summer. Again, this is Segovia provinces best gastronomic address. Just about to be opened is the chefs new venture- the 4-star Hotel Codex Calixtinus right off the N 110 highway to Segovia at km 115,8 near the hamlet of Gallegos. It will have 39 luxurious rooms, 11 suites, pool, convention center, sauna, Wellness spa and beauty salon, disco and a gourmet restaurant with chefs trained at the 3 Michelin star Martn Berasategui in the Basque Country. In the neighboring village of Navafra, found off the N-110 between the first and second turnoffs to Pedraza, on Saturday and Sunday only from 11:00 2:00, right at the river Cegas edge, one can visit an Ethnographic Museum containing the last remaining copper water-wheel powered martinete (drop hammer) in Europe, dating from 1850. And just two kilometers from the village, one can take a beautiful walk through a pine forest up to the waterfall named El Chorro, a perfect spot for a weekend picnic. At the parking area there are picnic tables and barbeque pits, restrooms, a childrens playground and a rustic restaurant plus a natural swimming hole.

But back to driving tour #2-Segovia-Pedraza-Riaza-Seplveda-Duratn Park



Upon exiting the medieval gate of Pedraza, follow the signs towards Rades de Abajo and Matabuena, which will take you to the N-110 where you will turn left.

In Prdena the artwork of nature can be seen in all its splendor at the Cave of the Enebralejos. Open April September, Tuesday - Friday from 11:00 -2:00 and 4:30 8:00. On Saturday, Sunday and holidays its open from 11:00 2:00 and 4:00 9:00. From October - March, its open Tuesday - Friday for guided visits only at 1:00 and 5:00, then on Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 11:00 2:00 and 3:30 - 7:30. Closed Monday.

From Prdena continue on the N-110 to the motorway A-1 and go north on it for a few kms until you reach the exit for Cerezo de Arriba and Soria. Take this exit and youll find yourself once again on the N-110 heading northeast. Continue for about 12 kms, past the turn off to the ski slopes of La Pinilla, to the village of Riaza and park in the municipal lot.

RIAZA This village has always been a must stop on a driving tour through the province due to its highly photogenic, irregular shaped, porticoed and sand covered Plaza Mayor. Here during the festival days throughout the first two weeks of September, la fiesta de Nuestra Seora del Manto, bullfights are held in the square, as well as encierros (Running of the Bulls Pamplona style) and contests of recortadores, a game of gymnastics in which the bulls are not fought but instead are vaulted over, and rings placed on their horns. You can see photographs of these festival events in the tourist office on the square. Riaza has always been noted for the quality of its meats and is a beacon to those on the suckling pig, suckling lamb trail. One of the best spots in town to sample these two specialties is La Taurina right on the square at #6. Average check: 28. Closed Monday, except on holidays. Mondays and Fridays are market days.



Before you leave the town, dont forget to visit the gothic church to see its beautiful poly-chromed wood Piet from the 16th century. A charming inn to spend an overnight: El Molino de la Ferrera on the Riaza-Villacorta road. A converted flourmill with 10 antique-filled rooms surrounded by an oak and beech forest, an idyllic place to spend a chilly autumn night in front of the fireplace- a member of Posadas Reales de Segovia (www.molinodelaferreria.es).

Now back to driving tour #2, which continues on to our third impressive medieval town of note - Seplveda.

From Riaza return west on the N-110 for 3 km until you reach the SG-911that will lead you directly east to Seplveda, a distance of about 21 km. Another dramatically perched, steeply terraced, stunning-to-view from-afar Segovian treasure perched high above the meandering Duratn river, the town of Seplveda comes alive on weekends when droves of day trippers from Madrid come up to guess what? - Indulge in the traditional lamb feast. So on a day trip from Pedraza you should time your arrival carefully, either avoid the 1:00 - 500 pm crush or to join in. (I highly recommend the latter!). Street parking is always problematic in Seplveda, so you should follow the P signs and the steady stream of cars to the parking area above the town square. I dont recommend a visit to Seplveda on Monday or Tuesday because the hornos de asar will be shut tight and the town quite dead.

SEPLVEDA An aside Seplveda, along with Riaza, is quite proud of its bullfighting tradition and its corridas take place the last weekend of August. These events are not associated with any religious holiday. They are called Las Fiestas de los Santos Toros. On Thursday a parade of the peas (local societies that support the fiesta) initiates the festivities. These peas have their headquarters in the caves that youll see along the city streets. As these festivities are know as the San Fermines de Castilla y Len, just like in Pamplona, a rocket is ignited by the mayor to indicate the start of the 3 day long party. In the mornings the encierros (running of the bulls through the town) take place followed by the afternoon corridas, then evening dances in the town hall square. Monday is the day of the mozos, the young men of the town who participate in an amateur bullfight with young cows, the vaquillas, in the afternoon. One of Seplvedas native sons was the matador Victoriano de la Serna who fought in the 30s along with Juan Belmonte.

In addition to Seplvedas dozen roasting houses, Romanesque churches, bullfighting tradition and medieval fueros, its other claim to fame is its pastry-making tradition. The town is filled with pasteleras and panaderas that sell local sweets such as soplillos, florones and rosquillas. Try some at the Bollera La Pea on the Plaza Mayor. Before lunch pick up a map of the town at the tourist office next to the town hall and make sure to pay a visit to the Iglesia de los Santos Justo y Pastor. From the town hall square you will walk north on Calle de la Barbacana and through the medieval gate Puerta del Ecce-Homo, to the church, which will be on your right. This lovely



Romanesque church with three naves, a handsome mudjar coffered wooden ceiling and crypt, has been recently restored and converted into a museum, the Museo de los Fueros. Signage is in Spanish only, but you can enjoy the displays of ancient keys, tombs, poly-chromed sculptures, beautifully sculpted capitals and paintings, and archaeological finds dating from the 12th to the 18th centuries. (The fueros refer to the special privileges and charters given in the 11th century to the town by King Alfonso VI.) The church is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10:30 - 2:30 and 4:30 - 7:30. Entrance: 2. Admission is free on Wednesday.

If your timing is right, lunchtime should now be approaching. I suggest that you head back to the square and around the corner past the souvenir shops down Calle Sancho Garca to # 3, Casa Romn for an aperitivo and glass of wine. This rather fancy asador and member of the Association of Asadores de Lechazo of Castilla-Len serves nice wines by the glass and tapas in an atmospheric setting, making it a nice preamble to your roast lamb feast in one of Spains most legendary figones-the much loved and heralded Fign Zute el Mayor. And after your lamb banquet I suggest that you return here for an after lunch coffee.

See my full description of this ber-famous but totally unpretentious eatery below, under In the province - doing the weekend ritual roast baby lamb ritual feast.

After your lunch, its time for a vigorous walk to fight off the inevitable soporific effect of that roast lamb banquet. I highly recommend the unforgettable (but easy) walk down to the tiny 11th century Ermita de San Frutos, on an island floating above the truly spectacular Duratn canyon in the heart of the Duratn National Park. Upon exiting Seplveda, follow the signs to San Frutos. This route will take you through the park towards Villar de Sobrepea and up to the village of Villaseca. There youll see an Ermita de San Frutos sign on your left immediately before the church and before leaving town. Turn left and follow a gravel 5 km track (wide enough for tour busses) down to the parking lot. The Ermita is a 1-1/2 km pleasant downhill walk from there. Youll see it in the distance on its island floating between the canyon with its 100-meter drop and the hundreds of griffin vultures soaring on the warm air currents above you, an amazing sight! There is sheer and utter total silence except than the sounds of the bells of the sheep grazing on what is said to be the best sheep grazing land in the world! San Frutos, the patron saint of Segovia, was a Visigoth nobleman, born in 642, who, upon entering middle age, decided to renounce his worldly goods and, along with his brothers, headed up here amidst the rocky terrain high above the river for a life of reclusion. The story goes that he confronted attacking Moors by brandishing a cross, and with it drawing a mark on the ground, and when he rammed the cross into the ground, a huge chasm opened up, creating this island and thus impeding its crossing by the invaders. The saint died in 715. In the 12th century, the Benedictine Monks of Silos built the Hermitage in the saints honor. Each year on October 25, a pilgrimage is celebrated to this holy site. See photos at: www.fuenterrebollo.com/fotos100.html



The appropriate season for this walking adventure is really from April to November. It might be far too muddy and cold in the dead of winter. Weve here both in early April and early November and enjoyed glorious sunny skies for our walk.

Now retrace your steps to the village of Villaseca, turn right and drive down to the town of Seblcor, where youll pass the Posada del Duratn (a lovely place to stay in this blip on the road town) and an adventure sports shop that rents kayaks for trips down the Duratn gorge. Then continue on west to Cantalejo where you follow the CL 603 to the SG 231. Turn east and in a few km. youll come to the turn off for the SG-V-2311 which will take you through Rebollo and on down to Pedraza.



DINING IN AND AROUND SEGOVIA Gastronomic specialties of the Segovia province

Cochinillo asado: roast suckling pig Judiones de la Granja: tender white haricot beans Cordero lechal: roast baby lamb, served in quarters in a clay casserole Cabritillo: roast baby goat Truchas de Valsan: local trout Nscalos a la Segoviana: Wild mushrooms sauted with garlic and parsley Sopa castellana: a garlic soup with ham, topped with poached egg Chorizo de Cantimpalos: the local spicy cured sausage Ponche segoviano: a moist-sugar glazed sponge cake

IN THE CITY The big three legendary roasting taverns Mesn de Cndido Theres great roast lamb along with Segovias star gastronomic attraction, roast suckling pig, to be had at the atmospheric and world famous Mesn de Cndido, a favorite of King Juan Carlos and Antonio Banderas, to name just two. The current chef, Alberto, is the legendary Cndidos grandson, who is busily bringing the familys famed eatery back into culinary glory. Four generations of the Cndido family have run this atmospheric roasting tavern (horno de asar) since 1905. The 15th century building was declared a national monument in 1941, and it stands in the shadow of the Roman aqueduct on the Plaza del Azoguejo. Its divided into cozy rooms with rustically charming Old Castilian dcor and tons of memorabilia and photos of the celebrities and royalty who have dined here over the years (my first visit was in 1970, and Ive returned once each year since). I most enjoy sitting upstairs at a table overlooking the aqueduct. The star attractions here are the roast lamb and roast suckling pig, cochinillo asado (called tostn at Cndido), but other dishes shine as well, such as the sea bass (lubina) and wild mushrooms (setas confitadas). They still carve the roast suckling pig with the edge of a plate rather than a knife; two thrusts of the plate are given along the spine and four across. According to legend, this unusual carving method began when a plate accidentally slipped out of the master roasters hand just as he was holding it over a piglet straight out of the oven. Check the web page ((www.mesondecandido.es) to read all about its history, peruse the menu, see the dining rooms and make a reservation.

Mesn Duque Equally good but not quite as scenically located, is the almost equally famed Mesn Duque on pedestrian Calle Cervantes between the aqueduct and the Plaza Mayor, on the left side going up (www.restauranteduque.es). Another Master Roaster that has won numerous culinary awards, this mesn is the oldest in the city, dating from 1895. Its now in the hands of the daughter and son of Dioniso Duque. The bar downstairs has won several tapas competitions, and the upstairs dining rooms are cozy and attractively



decorated in Old Castilian style. Their typical Segovian menu of sopa castellana, cochinillo asado and ponche segoviano for dessert runs slightly less than the competition.

Jos Mara If youre not a great suckling pig aficionado, then choose Jos Mara, to the east of the Plaza Mayor on Cronista Lacea 11, for your nice sit down meal, as the menu is more varied (including roast porgy, besugo), and the wine list from Castilla-Len and the Ribera del Duero regions is superb. It is less tourist frequented but less atmospheric (no romantic views of the aqueduct). The owner calls his wine cellar-museum el altar del vino. Also yummy croquettes are served at the bar. In fact, with your drink at the bar, youll be offered a free tapa and will be asked to choose among several offerings, including croquetas, or a slice of a special omelet, tortilla. As does Cndido, Jos Mara serves one of the best roast lambs (critics actually prefer his over Cndidos) and suckling pigs in the region. And his lemon sorbet (sorbete de limn) is for me the best in town. All three of these venerable roasting taverns, Cndido, Duque and Jos Mara receive one sol (sun) from the reliable Campsa guide and a 6.75 or 6/10 in the 08 Gourmetour. You cant go wrong with any of the three competitors, so its a matter of choosing which one suits your personal taste-the product delivered will be essentially of the same high quality.

For the above-mentioned restaurants, one must reserve, particularly on the weekends.

Or, if you are watching your budget, choose the more casual and less expensive Narizotas with a youngish feel, eclectic menu and outdoor terrace dining in the summer.

Very popular with the locals is lively tavern/restaurant behind the Plaza Mayor, Cuevas-Mesn de San Esteban on Valdelguila, 7, owned by Luco del Campo who won the Golden Nose award in 02 as Spains top sommelier. It serves tapas and raciones at gentle prices in a slightly bohemian cave-like ambiance of rustic wooden tables in front, plus it has a dining room in the back built from a former aljibe or Moorish cistern. A three-course meal with two choices each of starter, fish or roast lamb, dessert or fruit, bread, wine or beer costs only 12,15, but you must do your own translation and you need to like whats on the menu! Some dishes on the bargain menu are the cheapest cuts of meat that might not appeal to everyones palate. Wines by the glass for 1,40 or 3,60.

If youre looking for a nice selection of interesting wines by the glass accompanied by some delicious tapas, you should head to Segovias best wine bar, Restaurante Bar Vinoteca La Tasquina, Calle Valdeguila, 3, which runs behind (north of) the Plaza Mayor and the Teatro Juan Bravo. Its quite popular among the locals, and our choice for a glass of wine and tapa before a meal. Its owner, Francisco Plaza, has won the best sommelier of Castilla-Len award in 07. And for budgeters, this vinoteca serves a bargain priced men del da for only 15 in its small dining room.



True gastronomes and wine lovers looking for a sit down, gourmet meal, however, should head straight to one of the following:

Di Vino The chic gastronomic outpost of this wine crazed Luco del Campo, just a few steps down the street (restaurantedivino.com). He created this new designer done space to house his collection of 11,000 wines and to offer creative gourmet fare. We dined at the large table to the left of the bar this past April and were delighted by their offering of very

reasonably priced gourmet tostas (like very large canaps) with highly interesting wine pairings, a unique concept. We shared five large tostas (four would have done the trick nicely), the tosta de Pays with foie paired with a sauterne from Zamora, a Tosta de Chapata y Tiznao de Bacalao (cod) with black olives paired with a hard to find Rioja red, a Caneln Frito de Rabo de Toro (oxtail) y Crema de Patata paired with a local Duratn red, a Tosta de Tramezinin con Torta del Casar (creamy Extremadura cheese) y Champin paired with a Tarragona red and a Tosta de Chapata y Revuelto de Salmn paired with a ros from the Peneds. All a real delight, since each yummy dish came paired with unusual Spanish wines that we had never tried before. And the price for this feast is extremely reasonable-each tosta with its accompanying glass of wine costs under 5 DiVinos female sommelier, Henar Puente, won the Spain sommelier of the year award

in 04, the first woman ever to have earned this honor. The dining room, in an ancient brick cellar, is decorated in a very contemporary style and will be the very next place we dine in Segovia. A place for dedicated gourmands-highly recommended. They offer a fixed price lunch menu for 20, including wine and coffee, a six-stage degustation menu for 44 and a degustation menu with wine pairings for only 65. Highly recommended. Closed Tuesday.

Villena Located on the Plaza Mayor at #10, is on the same side as the Castilla-Len tourist office. The kitchen here is expertly manned by Chef Julio Reoyo who honed his craft at his Michelin starred Mesn de doa Filo in Colmenar de Arroyo (Madrid province). His cuisine will provide a very pleasant alternative to the typical Segovian artery clogging roast lamb, suckling pig fare. Those who seek something more modern, more daring in a contemporary setting should head here or to Di Vino. Here they serve very creative desserts rather than the usual ponche segoviano, such as an orange savarin with chocolate



and mango ice cream. Count on an average check of 40/person. English menu. Villena receives one sol from the Campsa guide, a 7/10 rating from Gourmetour and has been anointed with a Michelin star in the 08 red guide. Closed Sunday night, Monday and the last 2 weeks of July.

Casamacario If youre lodged at the Parador, you have a new and attractive option close by, Casamacario, in La Lastrilla, across from the entrance drive up to the Parador. Inside youll enjoy well-spaced tables, a pretty and tranquil environment and lovely city views along with dishes that venture beyond the usual roasting tavern fare. Recommended by the staff of the Hotel Palacio de Facundo. Tel: (+34) 921 444 908.

IN THE PROVINCE Doing the weekend ritual roast baby lamb feast Regardless of how one feels about suckling roast lamb, which here is baby lamb of the ancient churra breed, long-legged with black noses and ears, famed for the superb quality of its meat and slaughtered when between 18-25 days old, its a Segovia ritual. Spaniards from all parts of the country come to Segovia city, or to the province, on weekends and holidays to do the medieval banquet roast baby lamb feast at the many hornos de asar (roasting taverns) where the lamb is prepared in clay pots, roasted for 2+ hours in adobe ovens fired with Holm oak. Weve done this ritual both in the city and in the province.

The traditional feast is simple: a lettuce/tomato salad, rustic bread, a clay casserole dish of tender baby lamb called lechazo, looks simply like a plate of bones, but so tender that it can be cut with a plate rather than a knife, and for dessert, a lemon sorbet (sorbete de limn) which is refreshing and serves to cut the grease. The famous Segovian dessert specialty, ponche segoviano is an orange liqueur soaked, custard filled cake topped with marzipan, cloyingly sweet for me. A red wine, a tinto, either a crianza or reserva from the Ribera de Duero region, should accompany a proper roast lamb meal. I recommend the following labels: Abada Retuerta, Alin, Carmelo Rodero, Gran Valtravieso, and Hacienda Monasterio. This lamb feast is the quintessential Segovia experience, the non-plus ultra.

In Pedraza weve dined at El Yantar on the square. You must reserve and reserve well in advance for the few highly coveted outdoor tables on the 2nd floor balcony.

In Turgano, weve enjoyed El Zagun on the square, which also served impeccable fish with a Basque touch, seafood crepes and steaks. Female chef. Its also a simple but pleasant 15 room hostal. See: www.el-zaguan.com.



BUT THE NON-PLUS-ULTRA IS FOUND HERE: Fign Zute el Mayor In Seplveda youll find an extraordinarily famous, greasy spoon (the rough translation of a fign) dating from 1850 that is a legend throughout the country, commonly referred to as Tinn, located on the town square at #6. Martn Antorn and his family serve a simple menu of truly remarkable, melt-in-your-mouth roast lamb (28 for a quarter), a lettuce and tomato salad (5.50) and cheese with quince paste, cuajada (milk curd) or ponche segoviano for dessert (4). No wine list, just the young Ribera de Duero house red served cool (10). We had a memorable feast for four here on a Saturday in April for the very reasonable tariff of 28 per person. On weekends, due to its fame, its wildly popular, so one muse reserve in advance. When you call, you will be told when to arrive rather than your choosing your dining time, as Tinn staggers its reservations so that each partys lamb will be perfectly cooked and ready upon arrival. We were told to arrive promptly at 2:00 pm, which we did, we were immediately seated and our succulent lamb was ready and waiting for us. And it was thoughtfully served in two portions, first the front quarter then the hindquarter, so that it didnt get cold. This fign is proud of its mention in all the prestigious gourmet guides, including its top rating of 7.5/10 in The Best of Spanish Gastronomy. Closed Tuesdays and is only open for lunch until 4:00 pm. Tel: (+34) 921 540 165 E-mail: [email protected]

Roast baby lamb at Fign Zute el Mayor (the first serving)

N.B.: If you do happen to arrive without reservations on a weekend, Martn will call down to his new annex, the Fign de Tinn (run by the sixth generation) to try to accommodate you at a table there. See www.portalsegovia.com/zutemayor



FOR THE VERY ADVENTUROUS Mesn Gonzlez In November we journeyed to tiny Sacramenia from the Duratn Nature Park after an invigorating walk to the Ermita de San Frutos (see above) above the Duratn gorge to dine in a butcher shop, yes, a butcher shop!! The reason for this gastronomic pilgrimage - Several cordero lechal experts assured us that actually Sacramenia, not Segovia, not Seplveda, not Pedraza, not Riaza nor Lerma, nor Aranda de Duero, was where the suckling lamb was truly king. (This, of course, is a very arguable point, as each true connoisseur has his/her own lechazo shrine). Sacramenia is a nondescript small village with seven flocks of some 400 sheep each, far more sheep than inhabitants. What gives the village its competitive edge is that nowhere else are so many fine churra breed sheep to be found. The renowned butchers of Sacramenia, Javier and Jos Carlos Gonzlez also run the towns hostal, the Mesn Gonzlez. All these gentlemen do with the meat is to rub it with pork fat, salt and a bit of water. They say the flavor comes for the ewes milk because she has grazed in the hills on thyme, rosemary and lavender. We called ahead, as you must reserve, as the butcher only prepares exactly the number of lechazos that are ordered ahead of time, and we were told to be there at 3 pm. We saw no menu but were brought a delicious lettuce and tomato salad, a loaf of country bread, and our lechazo and custard for dessert, plus two rounds (on the house) of the wifes very potent homemade liqueur as a digestif- a totally unique and unforgettable experience. Tel: (+34) 921 527 300. While the Mesn Gonzlez (right on the Sepulveda road, #7) in Sacramenia does have a formal restaurant, part of the Hostal, in low season mid-week the restaurant doesnt open, so one dines in an annex of the butcher shop downstairs, the Carnicera Hermanos Gonzlez, in a tiny, no frills dining room.

Most Segovia province hornos de asar (roasting taverns) are closed Sunday evenings and all day Monday. Again, its essential to reserve for Saturday and Sunday lunch. Traditionally, the roast lamb ritual is served from 1:00 pm on. Better still from 2:30 4:00 pm. No orders are ever taken after 4:30 pm.



THE ROAST LAMB AND WEDDING TOWNS Closer to the city of Segovia are the roast lamb and wedding towns of Torrecaballeros and Sotosalbos, where Madrid brides come to get married at the lovely 12th century galleried Romanesque churches of San Miguel in Sotosalbos and San Nicols in Torrecaballeros, and have their wedding reception at one of the roasting taverns here.

I recommend the following:

In Sotosalbos El Porche de las Casillas Receives a 7.5/10 rating from The Best of Spanish Gastronomy, only opens its doors on weekends and holidays (but everyday in August).

In Torrecaballeros La Portada de Medioda Receives equal ranking (7/10) in the prestigious Best of Spanish Gastronomy guide. Their quarter of lechazo, serving two, costs 37 and 34,50 respectively (www.laportadademediodia.com). Tel: (+34) 921 401 011.

La Posada de Javier Is housed in an 18th century beautifully restored rectory next to the Romanesque church. La Posada de Javier is located in a pretty rural home just off the highway. Tel: (+34) 921 401 136.

Both close tight on Sunday night and Monday.



LODGING IN SEGOVIA While there is no 5 star luxury property in the city to date, there are several fine moderate-to-budget options (featured in Rick Steves Spain guide, and thus, very popular). The hotel scene, however, is due for a change, and more new properties will be appearing after the beginning of 08, when the new AVE bullet train from Madrid is up and running.

Moderately expensive Eurostars Plaza Acueducto This is the newest 4-star to be opened in Segovias burgeoning hotel scene, with an enviable location just 200 meters from the aqueduct. Initial reviews have been fairly favorable, although the area in front of the hotel is undergoing a major construction project, so there is no on-street parking. The hotel does have a garage and the charge is 14 a night. The 72 simply furnished guest quarters sport the usual creature comforts: safe, mini bar, a/c, sat. TV, 2 phones, work desk, lounge chair and queen beds but no pillow menu and closets are quite small. 24-hr. room service is provided. Some baths have Jacuzzi showers. Some rooms are non-smoking, some have aqueduct views, and 8 are triples. Within the hotel youll find a coffee shop, and a buffet breakfast is served for 11. Stays here can be quite inexpensive, as low as 70 a night, by using Bancotel discount coupons, which can be purchased online or individually at any branch of a Viajes Iberia travel agency in Spain. See www.bancotel.com. Or for online direct booking see www.eurostarshotels.com

Palacio de San Facundo*** This truly lovely and stylish 3-star boutique hotel (hotelpalaciosanfacundo.com), new in 06, is housed in a converted 16th century palace on a quiet square in the heart of Segovias old quarter, just 100 meters from the Plaza Mayor and mid-way between the Plaza Mayor and the Aqueduct-a very handy, enviable location. It has 29 guest quarters, all equipped with safe, a/c, hair dryers, free Wi-Fi, flat screen TV, some 4 poster beds and glistening baths. The hotel also has an elevator, a handy garage and a bar-caf found in the beautiful former cloisters, surrounded by granite columns and covered with glass roof. Its become quite popular due to its really convenient location (and parking), and youll notice that the guest book has been filled with comments and pictures of celebrities, local and international, who have recently been guests. Prices do run on the high side compared to the properties listed below, but theres a lot to like here.



Parador de Segovia For families with small children, I also recommend the state run 4-star Parador, which has an enviable perch with fantastic views of the city, 2 kms outside Segovia. Follow the C-601 toward Valladolid and youll see the Parador sign on your right just when you reach the city limit sign. Its an easy choice for families, particularly in the summer, as theres an outdoor pool (as well as an indoor one), ping pong table, plenty of garden space for kids to play and thus very popular. No discernable charm, no designer touches, wont win any design awards (the furnishings need an update as the dcor is quite dated) not stunning to contemplate, unlike the historic Paradors. It just looks very much like a purpose-built, large, rather ugly brick French Alpine ski lodge (think Chamonix) with a vast lobby. But theres plenty of free parking, a very decent dining room (even has a Eurotoque chef and notable wine list) with fantastic panoramic views of the city from the large floor-to-ceiling windows and a childrens menu. Plus the Parador rooms are predictably large, always pleasant, with great baths and are a good value.

This Parador often has rooms available through the Paradors own discount programs, such as the 5-night Plan, and it offers specials during the slow months of November through February. Rack rates for 08 are 138-149 (www.parador.es). Add 15/person for the buffet breakfast.

Moderate Hotel Cndido Segovias newest 4 star superior property (opened 06 by the owners of famed Mesn Cndido) offers 94 rooms and 10 suites, all well appointed with the usual 4 star amenities, including a pillow menu, internet access, flat screen TV, a free mini bar (soft drinks, juices, water), some 4 poster beds, baths with separate shower, plus restaurant, free Spa with indoor pool, Jacuzzi and gym. This is now my lodging of choice for families arriving by car. However, its not within the old quarter but instead located in the new section of the city on Avenida Gerardo Diego, about 2 km from the Aqueduct. So its location doesnt make it handy for those who come by train. It best serves families or couples with a car who want spacious grounds, attractive public rooms, plush accommodations, a restaurant and a pool in the summer.

This 4 star is also very competitively priced-can sometimes be as economical as staying at the Parador. It does accept Bancotel coupons (which can be purchased at any branch of Viajes Iberia travel agencies) or online at: www.bancotel.com. With the Bancotel coupons one can often find rooms as low as 90 on weekdays, rising to 120 on weekends. And the rooms are more sumptuously appointed than the Paradors. See rooms at: www.candidohotel.es

Hostera Ayala Berganza A 3-star, converted 15th century palace and former atelier of the 20th century Impressionist painter Zuloaga. Not a picture perfect location, in the once Moorish (and now somewhat scruffy) San Milln quarter, next to the Romanesque church of San



Milln, but only a five-minute walk from the aqueduct, 300 meters away. The 15 rooms and 2 suites are designer-pretty and very spacious, particularly the suites. Ive toured the hotel, been impressed by the elegant rooms, but have never spent the night. If you need garage parking, a nearby public garage gives a discounted rate of 6 to hotel guests. If youre in need of wine and tapas without venturing further beyond, the hotel offers an adjacent Taberna. Not much public space here save a small sitting area and breakfast room (breakfast costs an additional 11), but theres a pleasant interior garden. Nevertheless, theres very positive client feedback at www.innsofspain.com, which handles bookings. It has also been chosen as a selection of Secret Places and of JP Moser. www.partner-hotels.com

Hotel Alczar This is a small, 8-room, 4-star property that would please lovers of antiques and B&B fans. Its located on the highway below the city, in the Eremsa valley, with the fairy tale Alczar looming straight above. The upstairs rooms (no elevator) have antique headboards, antique wardrobes but modern marble baths with Jacuzzi tubs. All rooms come with mini bar, a/c, safe and free Wi-Fi. I would certainly specify a room with view of the Alcazar, such as the Reina Ana de Austria or the Reina Isabel II, as the other rooms overlook the highway. There is a formal antique-filled parlor downstairs furnished with antiques, surrounded by marble columns and with chandeliers made at the Royal Glass Factory of La Granja and rugs woven at Royal Tapestry Factory in Madrid, plus a bar/breakfast nook, which is the extent of the public space (alcazar-hotel.com). There are pretty gardens where breakfast is served in summer with those magical views of the Alczar and a small car park for 4 cars. While a car is not absolutely essential, it is a twenty-minute steep walk up to town. JP Moser includes the hotel along with the Infanta Isabel and Hostera Ayala Berganza in its Segovia selection.

Lower moderate to upper budget Infanta Isabel* If you want to be smack in the heart of the town, choose this well maintained property with 38 rooms, some with balconies overlooking the Plaza Mayor. Its a perfect Rick Steves sort of lodging (in a good sense), not luxurious but dependable, serviceable, functional, friendly, with a very handy caf downstairs. A reconverted 18th century home, its wrought iron balconies look out on both the Cathedral and the lively Plaza Mayor. The guest rooms have reproduction French Empire style furnishings, parquet floors, pretty, unique headboards with all the necessary amenities: a/c, satellite TV, mini bar, Internet connection and safes. The corner rooms are said to be the most capacious. It is a JP Moser selection and now belongs to the Sercotel marketing group (www.hotelinfantaisabel.com). The downstairs caf and restaurant, Casares, is an inexpensive and attractive spot to have coffee, drinks and tapas or a full meal of the famous cochinillo asado. See www.restaurantecasares.com.



Los Linajes My other budget to moderate choice is tucked away into a corner at Doctor Velasco 9, some 300 meters from the Plaza Mayor and near the Iglesia de San Esteban. Some of the 53 rooms have very pleasant views of the valley and some have terraces, but its both older looking and very Old Castile in dcor, with beamed ceilings and tile floors. Its recommended in Karen Browns Charming Hotels of Spain guide as her favorite budget property and at the present rated #1 on Trip Advisor. It has a garage (with limited space so best to book a spot along with your room), bar/cafeteria, meeting/banquet rooms (it does weddings) and a disco (beware of noise). The hotel accepts Bancotel coupons, lowering the tariff to 60 during certain periods. These coupons are available for purchase individually at any branch of Viajes Iberia throughout Spain, including the branch at Gobernador Fernndez Jimnez, 18, in Segovia. But when reserving your room, you must alert the hotel that you will be paying with these discount coupons,

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