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8/8/2019 Merck Chemicals - COS Magazine 2.09
1/16
Color ForecastA frst look at Autumn/Winter 10/11
Where service and
expertise intersectA new center, a new kit
and applications galore
Wanted: youthul-looking skin
New products to keep complexions glowing
magazinecos2.09
V
ol.
8/8/2019 Merck Chemicals - COS Magazine 2.09
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02 / From the editors & what s ins ide cosmagazine@merck .de
Dr. Matthias Lergenmller, let
and Dr. Hansjrgen Driller, right.
Dear cosmetics proessionals,
Welcome to the latest issue o COSmagazine! We hope you fnd it ull o inspiration
and insight.
Along with our Color Forecast, this issue explores the ever-popular concern o skin thatlooks young. Youll also fnd a related special report on application technology and dis-
cover whats in our unctional fllers and application kits or you. And o course, we have
plenty o news or you not just at Merck, but regulatory aairs too.
You may notice that many more websites are eatured in this issue. These links make it
easier or you to fnd the inormation you need online. Naturally, youre also welcome to
contact your local sales representative should you have any questions about the products
and services you see here.
Do you have a topic youd like to see covered in the next issue? Tell our editorial team
about it at [email protected]
Sincerely,
Dr. Hansjrgen Driller
Director Global Business Cosmetic Actives
Dr. Matthias Lergenmller
Director Global Business Pigments or Cosmetics
02 FROM THE EDITORS &WHATS INSIDE
Your guide to this edition o COSmagazine.
03 MERCK NEWSLearn how our new peptide, pigment, and updated CD beneft you.
04 SPECIAL REPORT:YOUTHFUL-LOOKING SKINThe glow o youth desirable at any age. We examine how to
keep skin looking younger, longer.
07 MERCK ON THE CASE
The latest developments in REACH, NaTrue, and EU regulation.
08 COLOR FORECASTA summary o color choices and trends or Autumn/Winter 10/11.
10 SPECIAL REPORT:CHILDRENS SKINSkin thats young in years needs special care.
12 SPECIAL REPORT:ENTER A WORLD OF OPPORTUNITY
A compact tour o our Cosmetic Technology Center,a new kit, and unctional fllers.
16 EXCLUSIVES & EVENTSAn introduction to our Simply Pink! kit plus a schedule
o upcoming events.
8/8/2019 Merck Chemicals - COS Magazine 2.09
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Merck news / 03www.merck4cosmetics .com
THE LATEST SHAPE IN ANTI-AGING
RINGING IN A UNIQUE BREAKTHROUGHPEPTIDE: RONACARE CYCLOPEPTIDE-5
HOW RONACARE CYCLOPEPTIDE-5 IS DIFFERENT
Merck is delighted to announce RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5,
the frst homodetic cyclic biomimetic peptide or cosmetic
applications. Thinking o peptides as keys and skin cell surace
receptors as locks helps explain what makes RonaCare
Cyclopeptide-5 such a design breakthrough: its cyclic structure.
It represents the ideal key or particular skin cells surace
receptors. Providing the best ft in the lock-and-key model,
this revolutionary peptide delivers high selectivity to the
biological target site. Equipped with the outstanding edge o
RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5, you can create cosmetic products
that work with the ultimate in precision. Welcome to a new
dimension in eective anti-aging.
Whats more, RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5 is the frst cyclic peptide
known to cosmetics in which all o the covalent linkages between
the amino acids are natural peptide bonds (ie, homodetic).
HOW RONACARE CYCLOPEPTIDE-5 WORKS
As skin ages, it undergoes three main physiological changes.
The epidermis thins and dermal compacting diminishes. Skin
also loses the distinctive wave structure typical o the dermo-
epidermal-junction (DEJ). Enter RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5.
It counteracts the aging process by mimicking natural processes
o skin communication and repair. Skin turns more elastic and
frmer and appears to have ewer wrinkles.
Learn more about the benefts o the unique RonaCareCyclopeptide-5 at
www.merck4cosmetics.com/RonaCareCyclopeptide-5
And i youd like to use the RonaCarebrand name on your packaging, write to us
THE ALLURE OF COLOR TRAVEL
Xirona Moonlight Sparks
A luminous moonlight glow that casts a mysterious spell:
rom subtle silver to gorgeous gold, dotted with the sparkle
o the nights stars throughout. Welcome to Xirona
Moonlight Sparks, a brand-new cosmetic pigment rom
Merck. Inspired by the moons golden and silver shimmer
in the night sky, XironaMoonlight Sparks is the only pigment on the market that
helps you create such subtle yet striking color travel and make the competition glow
with envy. The secret: very thin, smooth, and uniorm calcium aluminum borosilicate
platelets encapsulated by metal oxide layers.
Transparent & versatile
With XironaMoonlight Sparks, you can highlight cosmetic ormulas without
changing the ormulations base color the pigment is that transparent. Whats more,
a little goes a long way in recreating the moons color travel plus exceptional glitter.
No limitations on use level have been placed on XironaMoonlight Sparks, so dont
hold back when it comes to creativity! XironaMoonlight Sparks is suited or all
cosmetics applications rom decorative products such as color cosmetics to
indulgent personal care products such as shower gels.
XironaMoonlight Sparks is approved or use around the world. I youd like your products
to cast a spell, order a complimentary sample rom your local sales representative today.
Visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/XironaMoonlight Sparks or more details.
UPDATED CD OFFERS EVEN MORE
RECIPES FOR SUCCESS
Looking to help revitalize your cosmetic ormulas with
pigments? Our popular Recipes or Success collection
available as a CD since last year is packed with updates.
The 2009 CD edition contains ormulation examples and
extra inormation or color cosmetics and personal care
now also including sun care and mens products. Users
will also fnd materials on new kinds o applications plus
a wide range o basic ormulas and innovative ideas or
using pigments. As an added bonus,
the updated CD contains our general
application guidelines or
emulsions, rinse-o products,
and much more.
Ask your local sales
representative or more
inormation, or get in
touch with your Merck
contact to order the
Recipes or Success CD
directly.
8/8/2019 Merck Chemicals - COS Magazine 2.09
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04 / Specia l report : youthul- looking sk in cosmagazine@merck .de
T H E T I M E L E S S A P P E A L O F
YOUTHFUL-LOOKING SKIN
When Queen Elizabeth I ruled sixteenth-century England, she used white lead paint to keep her
complexion looking youthul. Although todays cosmetics made the switch to skin-riendly
ingredients a long time ago, were still attracted to skin that appears to be in its prime. The latest
help in our quest or youthul-looking skin: breakthrough unctional fllers and innovative flters.
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Specia l report : youthul- looking sk in / 05www.merck4cosmetics .com
YOUTHFUL-LOOKING SKIN NEVER GOES
OUT OF STYLECosmetics has made amazing advances in helping skin glow and appear young.
Whats more, skin that looks like this is desired by people at every stage o their lives.
So cosmetics proessionals have that many more reasons to create and take advantage o
solutions that help us look the way we want.
CAN WE DEFINE THE YOUTHFUL LOOK?In tangible terms, there are three traits common to skin that appears young. The frst:
a smooth complexion. Second: youll also notice that youthul-looking skin is almost
completely ree o shine. And the third characteristic? Skin looks younger when it diuses
light, resulting in a resh, appealing glow. Accomplishing all three with your products
may sound like a tall order but you dont have to tackle the challenge alone.
ANSWERS FROM EVERY ANGLEAt Merck, weve developed a range o unctional fllers and flters to help skin retain its
youthul radiance. Our latest unctional fllers now grouped under the uniorm brand
o RonaFlair are designed to minimize shine and help skin look its best.Well explore each one. And although you may be amiliar with our UV pearls,
we caught up with Sabine Hitzel here at Merck to fnd out why
UV protection is an essential part o young-looking skin.
RonaFlairSotshade
A FILLER TO BALANCE SKIN TONE
A pure white iller, RonaFlair Sotshade contains no intererence
eects. Although the skins tone remains unchanged, RonaFlair
Sotshade helps skin look matte and in perect balance.
THE IMPROVEMENT. Thanks to a small particle size and a unique
surace structure, this iller delivers a very satisying compromise
between coverage and transparency. RonaFlair Sotshade is
lexible enough to allow endless color combinations without
dramatically impacting the products inal shade.
THE YOUTHFUL GLOW.As the particles have a slightly rough surace,
the fller diuses light. This is known in the industry as the sot ocus
eect.
This means skin looks more even and natural, complexions smoother.
THE DIFFERENCE. RonaFlair Sotshade combines unique
properties to stand out rom other illers. Its matte inish helps
skin glow without the shine. Its transparent, yet oers just the
right coverage. And it glides on beautiully.
RonaFlair Sotshade is perect or make-up especially in
concealers and selected applications in personal care. Ask your
local sales representative to learn more. Flip to our special
section on application technology or urther details, too.
Discover RonaFlairSotshade at www.merck4cosmetics.com/
RonaFlairsotshade
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06 / Specia l report : youthul- looking sk in cosmagazine@merck .de
YOUTHFUL SKIN IS SKIN THATS SHIELDED FROM THE SUNAN INTERVIEW WITH SABINE HITZEL, TECHNICAL MANAGER AT MERCK
COSmagazine:What makes Mercks Eusolex UV-Pearls such a
good choice or daily skincare that helps keep skin looking
young?
Hitzel:These flters screen out UV radiation at its frst point ocontact the outermost part o skin! So you shouldnt go a day
without protection, even i you have sensitive skin. Our Eusolex
UV-Pearls are actually UV flters encased in sol-gel silica this
reduces and can even prevent the chance o active ingredients
coming into direct contact with skin.
COSmagazine:In other words, the chemistry underlying UV
protection doesnt make your skin eel uncomortable.
Hitzel:Thats right. Eusolex UV-Pearls oer protection rom
the sun with a no-uss flter. Our Eusolex UV-Pearls B-O in
daily skincare products can ward o UVB rays as well as
hazardous UVA radiation that can penetrate glass windows and
clothing. Whats more, Eusolex UV-Pearls is an ingredient
with a demonstrated, excellent sensory profle compared to
non-encapsulated UV flters.
COSmagazine:Tell us about the role that RonaCare AP plays in
youthul-looking skin.
Hitzel:RonaCare AP is the perect complement to our UV pearls.
An incredibly efcient and remarkably stable antioxidant, it
orms the second line o deense in preventing UV damage.
COSmagazine: RonaCare AP is a cosmetic oil. How does it work?
Hitzel:As a three-phase mechanism and it has incredible
staying power. While RonaCare AP dims oxidative stress, it
builds up protection. At the same time, it prevents additionalreactive species rom orming. RonaCare AP is at work even
ater the suns sets. The ewer ree radicals that aect your skin,
the better your skins chances are at looking younger, longer.
COSmagazine: Can you give us an update on Mercks boost in
Eusolex UV Pearls production?
Hitzel: Production is up and running, and were excited to
announce that we now oer not only a variety o UV flters
but plenty o preservative systems in aqueous suspensions, too,
such as phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, and EDTA. We can also
accommodate regional dierences. No matter where you are in
the world, well fnd the right system or your UV flter.
For urther inormation and ormulation examples or RonaCareAP
and EusolexUV-Pearls, visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/AP
and www.merck4cosmetics.com/UVPearls
SABINE HITZEL,TECHNICAL MANAGER AT MERCK
RonaFlair Balance Colors
MATTE MEETS FRESH COLOR
RonaFlair Balance Red, RonaFlair Balance Blue, and RonaFlair
Balance Gold represent a quantum leap in cosmetics these brand-new
illers combine mattiying and intererence eects that can be used as skin
tone correctors.
THE IMPROVEMENT. Until now, all other manuacturers have provided
shiny intererence pigments or use in skin corrector products such as ace
lotions. This creates shine not always a welcome appearance when ap-
plying products on the ace. RonaFlair Balance Colors avoid this problem
entirely by relying on matte intererence eects.
THE YOUTHFUL GLOW.These illers relect light, so skin appears radiant
and resh.
THE DIFFERENCE. No other fller on the market
oers this combination o matte intererence,
transparency, excellent color strength, and outstanding skin eel
o RonaFlair Balance Colors. RonaFlair Balance Red, RonaFlair
Balance Blue, and RonaFlair Balance Gold are ideally suited or ace powders,
oundations, and ace care products. You can also use them individually or
blend them to match any skin tone in the world. Other uses: alter unwanted
or natural skin tones in any direction and conceal skin imperections. For
urther inormation, ask your local sales representative and dont miss our
special eature on applications with our new fllers!
Visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/RonaFlairbalance or essential inormation
on RonaFlair Balance Colors.
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Legal news / 07www.merck4cosmetics .com
Always at the oreront o regulatory
aairs, Merck would like to alert its
customers to a new EU cosmetic regulation
on the horizon. Passed by the European
Parliament in March, this regulation willsoon go into eect. Our goal: to make sure
your products comply with the latest
requirements. Here is some initial inorma-
tion regarding:
CLEAR TERMS AND INFORMATION
Individual terms such as nanomaterials are clearly
defned.
Product inormation, product saety, and evidence o
product claims must adhere to strict guidelines
(publication orthcoming).
Technical details such as GMP or analytical methods
must reer to ISO standards.
AN EU-WIDE DATABASE
Existing national cosmetic databases will be merged
into an exhaustive database o products and materials.
EXISTING MATERIALS AND ADVERTISING
Existing nanomaterials must be listed as nano on
labels.
Product claims must meet criteria set by the
EU Commission.
Should you have any speciic questions about how this impending
regulation could impact your Merck products, please contact us
directly at [email protected]
TAKING THE LEADUNDER REACHMerck has once again moved ahead o the crowd in bringing our
materials in line with new regulations. Acting as lead registrant,
we have registered our frst ingredient dihydroxyacetone (DHA)
under the EUs REACH regulation.
As well as handling the bureaucracy or our customers, were
actively involved in consortia that aim to optimize and accelerate
registration procedures in numerous areas, such as UV flters.
Further confrmation o our work comes rom the regulatory aairs
authority: Merck KGaA is well prepared and successully proceeds
in taking the lead to register DHA under REACH. The necessary
toxicological studies required or the REACH registration have been
perormed well in advance. Thereore, DHA rom Merck can be
considered as uture-proo with respect to European regulatory
compliance and product saety.
Products already registered under the existing ELINCS legislation
only have to be registered under REACH ater surpassing the
projected volume.
Learn more on how Merck can support you with REACH at
www.merck4cosmetics.com/reach
MAKING HEADWAY WITH NATRUE AND ECOCERT
Merck has good news or those capitalizing on the natural trend.
Nearly 95% o the pigments and fllers in our portolio ulfll
NaTrue criteria.
A number o Merck active ingredients also meet NaTrue and EcoCert
requirements. Ask your local sales representative or inormation.
Although both organizations defne their own standards, products
that bear the EcoCert or NaTrue label do not need to have 100% o
their ingredients certifed. To learn more about how Merck can
assist you with eco-labels, contact us at [email protected]
A NEW COSMETICS REGULATION: YOUR ADVANCE NOTICE
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08 / Color Forecast cosmagazine@merck .de
Portraits: Luis Huber, make-up artist Munich
Color Forecast Autumn/Winter 10/11
World in Flux 2010/2011The Merck Chemicals Color Forecast always right on time, right on trend. The Autumn/Winter 10/11 season is a response
to todays complex, interconnected, and ultimately uncontrollable world. Two distinct reactions in ashion and beautyemerge as a way o looking at contemporary society: a return to small-scale and a push or renewed energy.
DREAMSCAPEDREAMSCAPEplays with the sensational and simple to surprise, impress,
and intrigue at every turn. This twoold romantic beauty is sweet and sot
by day almost angelic and turns moodier and gothic-like when the
sun sets. Fresh, easy looks are marked by delicate rainbow accents and
powdery contours or a subtle glow. Sophisticated evening styles turn
to smoky eyes and precious touches. Whether day or night, the overall
look remains toned down.
DISTINCTIVE FEATUREThe palette eatures a somber and moody range
o inky shades punctuated by dusty pastels and tangy brights winters
new foral tones.
DARING CHICDARING CHIC is sel-condent, alluring, and outgoing all in one.
Mixing bold couture styles with bohemian accessories, these looks
speak to high drama and eminine sensibilities. Daytime looks
stay light and eminine, but bolder colors and jump make-up
are called or when its time to hit the town at night. Loud colors
and innovative patterns adorn eyelids and nails. Complexions
with healthy glows also eature color on temples and cheeks to
sculpt eatures and turn heads.
DISTINCTIVE FEATUREGolden tones mix with bright, dense accents
and colored metallic shades. Kohl returns sparkling and in color. Lips are
glossy, whether nude or coated with color.
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Color Forecast / 09www.merck4cosmetics .com
Transmission strongly expresses a down-to-earth need or reassurance, harmony, and comort as well as the aspiration
or a world that unctions on a more human scale. The retro undercurrents o Dreamscape and 4th Dimension alsospeak to this outlook. With the world beleaguered by a number o crises, Daring Chic and its optimism exempliy the
call or renewed energy, imagination, and creativity.
4th DIMENSION4th DIMENSIONis the intellectual in the crowd, careully blending
classicism and experimentation, retro and uturistic. Looks ocus
on one bold graphic eect l ike brows or lips and oten exhibit
a bizarre, otherworldly quality. The mood is neutral and low-key,
playing with white and powdery complexions and silver, subtle,
and graphic gradations. Jump make-up lends a supernatural touch,
and grays are the mainstay o nude looks.
DISTINCTIVE FEATURENeutral tones, elted grays, mercury, char-
coal, all the way to navy blue concrete and beige soten and add
warmth. Pearl, mauve, and jade accents create an impact.
TRANSMISSIONTRANSMISSION is chic and perectly groomed, a refection o an
active proessional and busy social lie. Natural beauty plays with
light and shade, taking center stage thanks to the secrets o
make-up artists. Warm glows rely on powdery smooth complexions
decked in rich beiges and voluptuous browns, smoky chocolates, and
grays. The nude look turns sophisticated with colorless glossy eects
on lids or straight caramel rom eyes to nails to lips.
DISTINCTIVE FEATURE The warm palette o caramel beiges, browns, and
khakis is subtly accented with coral pink and luminous red. Nuanced cherry,
raspberry, and gray-tinged pinks heighten the looks elegance.
For the ull Color Forecast, head to www.merck4cosmetics.com/CF1011
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10 / Specia l report : chi ldren s sk in cosmagazine@merck .de
EusolexUV-Pearls and RonaCareAP
NO-FUSS SUN CARE
A childs epidermis is substantially thinner than that o an adult
and has ewer protective mechanisms. Whats more, a childs skin
tends to dehydrate more quickly. So is exposure to the sun putting
young skin at risk? Not with EusolexUV-Pearls and RonaCareAP
rom Merck.
EusolexUV-Pearls
These UV flters are entrapped in sol-gel silica, so they reduce
even avoid direct flter contact with the skin. This is good news
or young and sensitive skin. Whats more, our EusolexUV-Pearlsare easy to use in sun care products. Since the flters can be
deployed in the aqueous phase, products dont turn sticky or
greasy and protected skin eels comortable or hours.
RonaCareAP
This transparent cosmetic oil is a highly stable antioxidant and
neutralizes ree radicals, continuing to work long ater the sun has
set. It also protects components o the sebum rom oxidation.
RonaCareAP is the perect complement to EusolexUV-Pearls
thats why we call it the second line o deense or protection
against the sun.
When used together, Eusolex
UV-Pearls and RonaCareAP
provide excellent protection
rom the damaging eects o
the sun or any kind o skin
including young and sensitive
skin.
Visit www.merck4cosmetics.
com/UVPearls and www.
merck4cosmetics.com/AP
to download brochures.
IR3535
THE BEST WAY TO KEEP BUGS AT BAY
Mercks IR3535repels mosquitoes, ticks, lice, and other
insects with impressive efciency. As well as having a
remarkable toxicological profle, this insect repellent is very
skin-riendly. In act, IR3535is even suited or childrens
sensitive skin, as it meets the strict requirements placed on
childrens products. As a result, children can play outside
and parents dont need to worry about bug bites or
inection.
Approved the world overthe world over
Both the World Health Organization (WHO) and the United
States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) haveevaluated and classifed IR3535.
The WHO
has classifed IR3535as a Class U hazard. Class U substances
are unlikely to present acute hazard in normal use.
The EPA
has termed IR3535a biopesticide. Although IR3535
is structured like a chemical, it does bear similarities to
naturally-occurring amino acids.
IR3535 in your products
IR3535is odorless, highly stable, and simple to ormulate.
It can be used in lotions, creams, gels, sprays, and roll-ons.
At Merck, weve designed a ormula with IR3535that
helps your products work longer with up to seven hours o
protection!
We have a wealth o experience when it comes to ormula-
tion. Ask your local sales representative how you can beneft
rom Merck expertise or write us at [email protected]
Details are also available at www.merck4cosmetics.com/
IR3535
PRODUCTS FOR CHILDRENS SKIN?CHILDS PLAY WITH MERCK
As the seasons change, dierent kinds o skin require dierent kinds o care. Childrens
skin, or example, is quite sensitive. And its never too early to shield young skin rom
harmul UV radiation. As an industry leader, Merck inherently understands these needs
and has the product portolio to match.
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www.merck4cosmetics .com Specia l report : chi ldren s sk in / 11
CandurinPearl Eect Colors
SAFETY THAT SHINES
Children love putting objects in their mouths: buttons, sand, even
cosmetic products. When it comes to childrens cosmetics, manu-
acturers need to design products that look attractive while repre-
senting the ultimate in saety. Its also essential to communicate this
inormation on the shel. Candurin the mineral pearl eect color
line rom Merck meets all three o these challenges.
An appealing shine
Children are naturally drawn to sparkling products made just or
them, such as toothpaste, lip gloss, and ace paint. Candurinhelps
you achieve the shimmering eects o pearlescent colors that are
so popular with kids.
Proven saety
A word rom Mercks regulatory aairs ofce: The saety o Candurin
is internationally approved: The ingredients ulfll the requirements
o ood laws in Europe and other countries. Candurin is produced
according to Good Manuacturing Practices (GMP) and all o this in
addition to Mercks own strict saety standards, which have defned
our company or more than one century.
An outstanding claim
With sophisticated shine and uncompromising saety, Candurin
pearl eect colors open up new opportunities in advertising the
benefts o your products. A label such as made exclusively with
ood colors is guaranteed to stand out on any shel.
I youd like your childrens cosmetics products to oer a genuine
dierence at the point o sale, ask your local sales representative
about CandurinPearl Eect Colors rom Merck.
Visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/candurin to download brochures
and other inormation right away.
MERCK KNOWS WHAT KIDS LIKE: PINK!
Looking or some exciting new avenues into childrens cosmetics?
Think pink with the new Simply Pink! kit rom Merck. Featuring
shampoo, lip gloss, and eye shadow, Simply Pink! is flled with
ideas and inspiration on how your products can play up this
much-loved childrens color.
Ask your local sales representative or your very own
Simply Pink! kit plus additional samples straight rom
our laboratory.
For urther inormation, go to
www.merck4cosmetics.com/simplypink
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12 / Specia l report : appl icat ion technology cosmagazine@merck .de
No product exists in a vacuum. Thats common knowledge, but its a act that
bears repeating because you also need to know how to reap the maximum
beneft rom the products youre working with. This is where Merck can help.
With decades o expertise in application technology, we can work with
customers to develop new solutions or take existing ones to the next level.
Just take a look at our track record and latest developments in cosmetics.
T H E M E R C K C T C A N D A P P L I C A T I O N K I T S
A WORLD OF POSSIBILITY
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Specia l report : appl icat ion technology / 13www.merck4cosmetics .com
A NEW SPOKE IN THE SERVICE WHEEL: THE MERCK CTC
Ofcially opened on September 8, 2009, Mercks new Cosmetic
Technology Center (CTC) in Darmstadt oers R&D proessionals
in pigments and active ingredients a 100% increase in work-
space, larger labs, rooms or training sessions and meetings, and
state-o-the-art lab equipment. But whats in this expansion o
technical services or Merck customers besides cutting-edge
R&D?
GREATER INSIGHT
The new CTC belongs to a network o six other Merck Application
Technology Centers around the world (one each in France,Taiwan, China, and Brazil, and two in the US). Merck customers
in need o cosmetics solutions are welcome to draw on this
global expertise. Whats more, the CTC leverages synergies
between pigments and active ingredients, adding a unique
perspective. Input rom both areas is also an excellent way to
pick up and capitalize on trends around the world. In addition,
the CTC can call on Merck experts in the companys own
chemicals and pharmaceuticals division or added insight in
cosmetics. That kind o joint in-house expertise is rare.
CLAIMS THAT SPEAK THE TRUTH
Naturally, highly-skilled cosmetics specialists are the lieblood o
the CTC. Seasoned proessionals in their industry, these Merck
experts are ready to tackle a number o projects. Take product
claim substantiation. Customers who want to play up their
products with statements such as provides excellent coverage
or lends the skin a matte appearance can ask the CTC or
assistance in fnding the right ingredients and understanding
what makes them the right choice in the frst place.
INSTRUCTION AND INSPIRATION
Twice a year, Merck customers are invited to attend fundamentals
workshops at the CTC addressing new developments in applica-
tions. The CTC also holds tailored workshops to help customerstackle their individual challenges in cosmetics whether theyre
about underlying concepts in cosmetics or real-lie practice.
These workshops are ideal or exploring application options and
routes in a proessional, hands-on environment.
I youd like an example o what Merck and our new CTC can do
or you in the way o application technology, look no urther
than our new unctional fllers, all developed in Japan:
RonaFlair Balance Gold, RonaFlair Balance Red, RonaFlair
Balance Blue, and RonaFlair Sotshade. For a frst look, head to
our interview with Christian Reischneider.
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14 / Specia l report : appl icat ion technology cosmagazine@merck .de
COSmagazine: Tell us about the unctional part o
unctional fllers.
Reischneider: Our fllers help change the appearance
o skin, such as lending mattiying properties and
covering up wrinkles. They also improve a cosmeticproducts texture. As a result, consumers will discover
that their avorite products glide on more easily, or
example, or that their skin eels better with the product
on it.
COSmagazine: Mercks assortment now eatures our
new unctional fllers. What makes them special?
Reischneider: Lets start with RonaFlair Balance Gold,
RonaFlair Balance Red, and RonaFlair Balance Blue.
Each o these fllers display matte intererence eects,
so you can achieve the same strong colors without the
shine. Were incredibly excited about the opportunities
this oers. Not only are these fllers matte and trans-
parent, you can use them individually or blend them to
correct any skin tone in the world. And the skin eel is
excellent.
COSmagazine: RonaFlair Sotshade, on the otherhand, is a pure white fller without any intererence
eect. What kinds o applications can you use it in?
Reischneider:RonaFlair Sotshade strikes an excellent
balance between transparency, coverage, and mattifca-
tion, so it can be used to correct a number o skin
complaints, such as eye rings. And its perect or
make-up and ace care. The most interesting thing
about RonaFlair Sotshade, however, is its reputation
as a sot ocus fller. You see, this particular fller has
a unique surace structure and uses extremely small
particles. Thats what helps RonaFlair Sotshade
diuse and scatter light on the skin. It looks natural
and resh, and complexions appear smooth.
RonaFlair is the new umbrella brand name or all Merck unctional fllers.
Aside rom a more recognizable name, what do these fllers oer customers in
the way o applications? We sat down with Christian Reischneider to fnd out.
HAVE YOUR
FILL OFFILLERS
8/8/2019 Merck Chemicals - COS Magazine 2.09
15/16
Specia l report : appl icat ion technology / 15www.merck4cosmetics .com
Merck Application Kits
HOW TO BRING THE SPA EXPERIENCE HOME
The Your Beauty Spa kit is the latest addition to the inspiring and innovative
line-up o Merck application kits. In keeping with our well-established applica-
tion kit tradition, the Your Beauty Spa package is flled with tangible ideas and
suggestions on how to incorporate the good or the soul and natural trends
into your daily skincare products.
SEVEN SAMPLES IN THE YOUR BEAUTY SPA KIT HELP RECREATE
THE SPA EXPERIENCE AT HOME:
The resh avocado mask with RonaCareTiliroside, a natural substance espe-cially suited to caring or sensitive skin
The shimmering body oil ormulated with natural oils and amazing optical
eects based on TimironIce Crystal and ColoronaPrecious Fine Gold
The Zen soap bar with its calming green hue highlighted by XironaKiwi Rose
and RonastarGreen Sparks
The delicious mango body butter with RonaCareAP to care or skin and ef-
ciently scavenge or radicals that are generated naturally in the skins surace
The sot skin glow lotion with a gradual tanning eect thanks to dihydroxy-
acetone (DHA) plus ingredients considered to be commonly accepted by NaTrue
The delicate bath powder with nurturing RonaCare Ectoin and RonaCare
Allantoin, as well as sparkling RonastarPurple Sparks
The extraordinary beauty capsules with CandurinPearl Eect Colors add the
perect fnishing touch to the spa theme
As with every Merck application kit, youll fnd cosmetics ormulas with Merck
active ingredients and cosmetic pigments a combination the competition
simply cant match.
To learn more about the Your Beauty Spa kit or request
a sample, contact your local sales representative or visit
www.merck4cosmetics.com/Yourbeautyspa
Another application in store or you: Discover the possibilities o stable pink
shades with Mercks Simply Pink! kit on the back page.
COSmagazine: Particle size now were getting into
substrates.
Reischneider:Merck uses a broad variety o premium
substrates: silica, alumina, natural as well as synthetic
mica, bismuth oxychloride, and calcium aluminum
borosilicate. These can take the shape o spheres,
crystals, or platelets, and to a certain extent theycan be combined. Whats worth noting here is this: other
companies rely heavily on platelets, whereas Merck
oers a greater choice. So we can help our customers
achieve a number o eects like the ball bearing
eect where the product glides on as though ball
bearings are at work when our spheres are gliding
between our platelets. Merck also covers the matte-shine
and transparent-opaque spectrums.
COSmagazine:What about other ingredients that make
these fllers stand out?
Reischneider:RonaFlair products are inorganic in
origin. This means that you can use them almost
without exception to support product claims such as
mineral or natural in cosmetic assortments.
COSmagazine: Natural and mineral are on everyones
lips these days. Where do RonaFlair fllers actor in?
Reischneider:Natural and mineral arent legally
defned as a claim or cosmetic product. But the philoso-
phy behind both is a wonderul ft with our unctional
fllers. Our products are incredibly skin-riendly, sourced
rom inorganic minerals, and show non-comedogenicproperties. As a company, Merck takes a sustainable
approach to everything we do. And as ar as RonaFlair
fllers are concerned, they meet NaTrue criteria so
were very well positioned to help our customers
products reect the natural trend.
Developing breakthrough applications takes more than
the right fllers you need the best selection on the
market and highly capable proessionals to support you
every step o the way. At Merck, wed be delighted to
help you take advantage o all three. Ask your local
sales representative to get started.
To learn more, visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/RonaFlairbalance
and www.merck4cosmetics.com/RonaFlairsotshade
to download brochures. Theyre illed with all the technical
inormation you need even benchmarks.
CHRISTIAN REIFSCHNEIDER,
LABORATORY MANAGER FOR
COSMETIC PIGMENTS AT MERCK
8/8/2019 Merck Chemicals - COS Magazine 2.09
16/16
16 / Events
PUBLISHED BY
Merck KGaA
Performance & Life Science
Chemicals
Frankfurter Strasse 250
64293 Darmstadt
Germany
Phone: +49 6151 72-6899
Fax: +49 6151 72-916899
EDITING & LAYOUT
RTS Rieger Team,
www.rts-riegerteam.de
DISCLAIMER
Merck provides information
on application technologies
and relevant regulations
based upon our current
knowledge and opinion at
the time of printing. Merck
makes no representation
or warranty of any kind, ex-
press or implied, including
merchantability or fitness
for a particular use, with
respect to such informa-
tion or its application.
Purchasers must indepen-
dently determine the
suitability of our ingre-
dients for the purchasers
intended product, use
or process. Purchaser is
responsible for observing
all laws and regulations
relevant to such products,
uses or processes. The
foregoing information and
suggestions are also pro-
vided without warranty of
non-infringement as to the
intellectual property rightsof third parties, and shall
not be construed as any
inducement to infringe the
rights of third parties.
THINK PINK WITH OUR SIMPLY PINK! KIT
Pink: a must-have color! It appeals to a wide
range o consumers teenagers, young women,
more mature women, even career women whodlike to add a dash o color to their proessional
look. But did you know that pink can vary
rom a light pastel to red and even tones
tinged with blue? Thanks to our broad
product portolio, Merck oers you
the right combination o
pearlescent pigments and
unctional fllers or a
dedicated and stable
shade o pink.
WHATS IN THE
SIMPLY PINK!
KIT?
This new kit
rom Merck is a
compact showcase
o just a ew ways
we assist our custom-
ers in making the most o
stable pink shades. The kit
contains lip gloss, eye shadow, and
shampoo plus plenty o ideas andinspiration. In act, Mercks product
portolio is ideally positioned to help you think
pink immediately.
Heres a preview:
XIRONA LE ROUGE LINE
This pigment demonstrates excellent color andlight stability so you can use its pearly shine in
many more red-hot applications.
RONAFLAIR EXTENDER W
Blend in this fller to reduce
pearlescence and create
boundless varieties o
pastel shades.
RONASTAR SPAR-
KLING PIGMENTS
Add sophisticated
sparkle eects
and turn heads.
Need more inorma-
tion on the Simply
Pink! kit? Head to
www.merck4cosmetics.
com/simplypink
Ready to order? Talk to your
local sales representative.
Theyll put pink at your fngertips,complete with additional
application samples straight rom
the Merck laboratory.
www merck4cosmetics comThis magazine is just a taste of Merck expertise and service
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