Men Sit Ali an Fashion

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Winter 2008/09

The iTalian menswear guideexclusive report for italian MensWear shoWsWhen the weather turns warm, the worlds most stylish men are already thinking cool. Get a jumpstart on your fall/winter wardrobe with Elite Travelers guide to next seasons most coveted mens clothing and accessories.

fashionable codes of qualityIn comparison to womens fashion, the look of menswear barely changes from year to year, and even generation to generation. Thats a point of pride for some stylish men, like Fiat scion Lapo Elkann, who wears the expertly tailored suits he inherited from his immaculately dressed grandfather, Gianni Agnelli, with flair. But well-dressed men who notice such details as the height of a lapel, the texture of a cashmere sweater or the polish strokes on a pair of shoes are aware that the best makers of menswear update their collections constantly. Technical innovation leads to fabrics that regulate body head, repel water or power an Ipod. Eco-consciousness triggers the use of wood pulp, bamboo and organically grown fibers in clothing fabrics. A global demand for luxury fuels the addition of such decadent touches as fur, exotic skins and limited edition items in collections. And the ever-changing style tide brings new colors, patterns, silhouettes and ensembles to the forefront of every season. The Italians remain the undisputed leaders in the luxury menswear arena, and our twice-a-year visit to their showrooms and trade show displays reveal what stylish men will want to wear in the months ahead. In this guide, we preview the collections that men will be wearing next fall/ winter. We saw the sample suits, outerwear, shoes and accessories this past January in Florence and Milan, alongside the menswear buyers from the worlds top department stores and specialty retailers as they selected what to carry in their own stores next fall. On many occasions, prices were not yet established and designers could not yet say whether select items would indeed be carried in certain corners of the world. But well-defined style trends and key pieces worthy of pre-orders emerged, and this guide will make sure you are among the first to know about them. Hot trends for men when the temperature drops will include the return of the three-piece suit, elbow patches on sport coats, knitwear as light as a cloud, Prince of Wales plaid, detachable fur collars and linings on outerwear, eco-friendly fabrics, high-tech performance fabrics, and exotic skins given a suede finish. And as seen for several seasons now, small details that only come from old-fashioned hand-tailoring (working button holes, hand-stitched lapels, custom linings, brush strokes on shoes) are codes for quality.

A. TesToni| Fall Focus | Italian leather accessories maker A. Testoni caters to the classic man with a preference for a decadent touch. Since its origins in Bologna in 1929, its focus has been on artisan craftsmanship, exotic materials and aged finishes. This season, that translates into a hint of Fellinis film La Dolce Vita throughout all the lines. In the top of the range, Amadeo Testoni line, crocodile boots are lined with sheepskin. In the Black Label line, shoes contain contrasting colors and leathers, such as black on smoke gray as buckskin meets suede. Bags go big and bold for fall/winter, and feature such details as ostrich leather and again the pairing of shades like black, smoke gray, burgundy and dark brown. | Key Pieces | The soft totes in supple leather will only look better with age. And A. Testonis formal footwear gets a subtle, stylish twist that doesnt abandon traditional standards that classic men love. | Where to Buy | A. Testoni operates 74 boutiques around the world including locations in New York, Las Vegas, Dubai, Korea, Russia, China, Japan, Indonesia and Taiwan. | corPorate contact | Corporate Marketing Manager Francesco Aimi, Phone: 39-051-890-1711; Fax: 39-051-890-1740; Email: Francesco.aimi@testoni.com

Avon Celli| Fall Focus | Founded in 1922, Avon Celli stays true to its roots as a luxury cashmere knitwear company and keeps its collection modern with fashionable design, details and color. Famed for using machines designed for making ladies stockings to weave the very finest sweaters, these pullovers remain wardrobe essentials. We challenge you to find a lighter-weight weave. Its Capsule 1922 collection represents the brands highest standards of quality and all the elements of its rich history. Now the company is expanding into socks, jackets, leather goods and tailored garments. | Key Pieces | Rich browns are key colors for knitwear this season. The perfect layering piece is a jacket that has the elements of a sweater. Also opt for a classic 24-ply knit sweater, which is crafted without seams (a 24-hour knitting process). The new leather accessories, as soft as its knitwear since they are made from deerskin, include jackets and bags. The duffel will sell for $4,000, and a jacket with a wallaby hood will cost about $11,000. | Where to Buy | The Avon Celli collection is available in top menswear boutiques in New York, Monte Carlo, Dusseldorf, London, Zurich, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Seoul, Tokyo and Hong Kong. Visit www. avoncelli.it. | corPorate contact | Consultant Geoffrey Saunders, Phone: (609) 439-2700; Email: rehgps@aol.com

BAllAnTyne| Fall Focus | This classic Scottish cashmere brand (now under Italian ownership) launched in 1921 and gained fame in the 1930s for mastering the hand-knit intarsia pattern, or argyle. These beautiful knits continue to be produced in Scotland, and the collection is growing to include Italian-made garments too like outerwear, shoes, trousers, blankets and bags. This season, designers look to the mountains for inspiration in a deep and rich color palette dominated by purples. Knit details throughout are subtle reminders of the brands luxury heritage. | Key Pieces | Items that every well-dressed man will want for his weekends include velvet jeans, knit peacoats, knit bomber jackets and a regal purple herringbone topcoat. Creative uses if its exceptional knitwear include knit ties, a knit tuxedo and knit unconstructed jackets. Soft buffalo hide is used for bags and other accessories. And the finest, lightest cashmere is woven into colorful scarves that will sell for about $900. | Where to Buy | Ballantynes stores are located in Milan, London, Cortina and Tokyo, with Florence and Portofino locations opening later this year. Visit www. ballantyne.it. | corPorate contact | U.S. Head Sandra Verbeck, Phone: (212) 980-2738; Email: sverbeck@ballantyne.it

BAlly| Fall Focus | This legendary Swiss accessories and ready-to-wear brand has a hip new designer at the helm, Brian Atwood, and his creative talent is clearly visible in the fall/winter 2008 collection. He references memories of shopping for vintage items, plus rock, grunge, and jazz funk music as inspiration for the seasons looks. Earthy colors, such as rust, black, moss and clay, ground the collection for autumn. | Key Pieces | Shoes range from velvet evening shoes and boots, to shearling sneakers, and Wellington boots in soft glove leather. Atwood updated the Scribe shoe from Ballys archives. This item uses the 200-step Goodyear welting process, which allows the footbed to take on its wearers unique foot shape. Each shoe is also hand-finished to make a lustrous leather upper (be they French calf, suede or crocodile), and hand-hammered on the dual-tone sole. The style name, size and other details are hand-written on the lining by each shoes craftsman. Bags are abundant this season, and are soft and light. Calfskin weekenders, messengers and multi-pocket bags with bronze hardware come in leathers and exotic skins. Tops for luxury is the opossum duffle. Clothing-wise, look for a relaxed silhouette in super light cashmere, jersey, boiled flannel and chunky knits. The rock-and-roll vibe comes through when shearlings, hand-woven jacquard, fur, velvets and wools come together in a riot of texture. | Where to Buy | Bally boutiques are in capital cities worldwide, including New York, Paris, Cannes, Geneva, Casablanca, Melbourne, Sydney, Panama and Hong Kong. Visit www.bally.com. | corPorate contact | Communications Manager Marnie Prather, Phone: (212) 446-3910; Fax: (212) 446-3901; Email: mprather@bally.ch

BAmford & sons| Fall Focus | The English Bamford family, themselves the epitome of elite travelers, created a line of classic and beautifully tailored clothing befitting their lifestyle, whether they are dressing for safari, a country house weekend, the board room or the yacht. The family is also adding a capsule collection of eco-conscious organic fabrics and garments that incorporate materials grown at the family farm in the Cotswolds. Look for the bee as the signature logo, or the Bamford crest of course. This winter, rich chocolate browns and navy blues dominate the core collection. | Key Pieces | Strong outerwear pieces include such classics as a pea coat and bomber jacket, plus a sporty trackside jacket and heavy knit sweaters. The pattern of the seasonPrince of Wales plaidlines several jackets. Look right for a shooting party in Bamfords down-filled tweed vest and embroidered ties, rich in deep purple and green. Leather-covered flasks and thermoses ensure no detail is neglected. Planetfriendly garments this season include trousers made from 50 percent wood pulp, and several dyed with vegetable coloring. New accessories and bags made from exotic crocodile are even more luxurious with a suede finish. | Where to Buy | Bamford & Sons boutiques are located in London exclusively, and the collection is also available in top department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman in New York. Visit www.bamfordandsons.com. | corPorate contact | Consultant Debra Thom, Phone: (212) 529-5533; Fax: (212) 529-2131; Email: dthom@hlgrp.com

BelvesT| Fall Focus | The fine