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Melbourne has more than 120,000 people who speak Italian at home. And while the community has been Victoria’s largest non-English-speaking group since the 1920s, their influence has been felt since the Gold Rush. Rafaello Carboni was a prominent figure at the Eureka Stockade, Dame Nellie Melba’s singing teacher was Italian, and cycling champion Nino Borsari helped Melbourne win the 1956 Olympics!

The influence on Melbourne’s restaurant and cafe culture has been no less profound, thanks to family names including Triaca, Massoni, Vigano, Molina, Codognotto and Pellegrini – all of whom helped shape the city’s early dining scene.

Today the city is twinned with Milan, and offers a huge choice of Italian-inspired places, from slick city diners to local trattorias. Here are some of our favourites.

inner-city hitsBeccoStart with stuffed olives, finish with nougat, then repair to the bar for a Becco Macchiato – a vodka-spiked Campari tonic. Now in its second decade, Simon Hartley and Richard Lodge’s are assured on the floor, while Liz Egan and Domenic Pipicelli’s menu can be relied on for simple, elegant fare. 11-25 Crossley St, Melbourne, (03) 9663 3000.

Matt Preston delves into the noisy pizzerias, elegant restaurants, cosy trattorias and treasure troves of imported produce to be found in Australia’s Italian capital.

WORDS MATT PReSToN PHOTOGRAPHY MARK RoPeR

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italianmelbourne

GRoSSi FloReNTiNoDownstairs there’s The Grill, which offers good-value pre-theatre and lunch menus. For a glass of red and a simple pasta – perhaps the homemade lasagne with pasta sheets so silky you’d almost like to wear them, we’d pick a table in the window or on the pavement of The Cellar Bar. Upstairs is the Mural Room, where Guy Grossi’s menu is more about white truffles from Alba, handmade duck tortellini or slow-cooked abbacchio (lamb). 80 Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9662 1811.

There’s a great little pocket of old-school cheap Italian in this corner of Melbourne,

with iconic espresso bar Pellegrini’s (66 Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9662 1885) offering a terrific communal table and nonna-style food in a small room out the back. While The Waiters’ Restaurant (Lvl 1, 20 Meyers Pl, Melbourne, (03) 9650 1508) is an equally famous, and rather rambunctious, room tucked away in a laneway across the road.

More modern, simple CBD places that are worth a look for piadine and decent coffee include Espressino (Shop 7, 50 Lonsdale St, Melbourne, (03) 9662 3334) and Piadina Slow Food (Rear 57 Lonsdale St, Melbourne, (03) 9662 2277).

ceccoNi’S cANTiNAThe Bortolotto family’s restaurant has slipped into this basement (previously home to Langton’s) as if it was a pair of supple Gucci loafers. Now the lush chocolate, linen and marble space positively hums. Meats from the rotisserie, rich pastas and a dish of spicy quail with grapes are highlights. Basement, 61 Flinders La, Melbourne, (03) 9663 0222.

Another basement-level city stalwart with a solid business clientele is Caterina’s Cucina E Bar (Basement, 221 Queen St, Melbourne, (03) 9670 8488), where you should always trust charismatic owner

The intimate interior of Cafe Di Stasio. Clockwise from below: coffee and sfogliatelle at Brunetti; fresh bakes at Sugardough; the elegant, yet simple, Becco; their spaghettini vongole; classic Italian counter at Brunetti; the scent of herbs at Journal Canteen; chef Guy Grossi; Grossi Florentino’s mixed antipasto.

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Caterina Borsato’s suggestions – especially if they include the osso buco. Another is Il Solito Posto (Basement, 113 Collins St – entry on George Pde, Melbourne, (03) 9654 4466), where the bar is also a great spot for a coffee or pasta on the run.

SARTiAfter going walkabout for a couple of years, prodigal chef Riccardo Momesso has returned to one of Joe Mammone’s restaurants. Now Sarti is serving some of the city’s most interesting Italian food, from pan-seared duck livers with pickled onions and an almond cream, to amaretti-crumbed whiting or chestnut tagliatelle with oxtail ragu. Desserts are another strength, with trendy modern touches like “spherification” and “soils” creeping in to the dishes, so definitely save space. Besides his famous pistachio pannacotta (one of the city’s best) with crunchy caramel salted popcorn, his chocolate gelato is also becoming legendary. 6 Russell Pl, Melbourne, (03) 9639 7822.

Sarti’s sister restaurant, Il Bacaro (168-170 Little Collins St, Melbourne, (03) 9654 6778) is a slick laneway eatery oozing mod-Italian style, whether for romantic dinners or intimate business lunches. The food and wine list match that vibe.

NoSTRo BAReTToIf we’re talking dinky Italian, then this tiny whitewashed dining room under the revamped GPO building is a contender for the title. The simple, chic room only fits a handful of tables but Umberto Lallo’s service is effusive, and the food is rustic without being clumsy. The baked peaches with gorgonzola and prosciutto, the cotechino sausage, and simple fresh pastas are among our favourites here. Shop G25, 350 Bourke St, Melbourne – entry from laneway, (03) 9654 5838.

JouRNAl cANTeeNOne of the new kids on the block, Rosa Mitchell has moved from Fitzroy’s Gertrude St Enoteca to this first-floor space, which feels like a 1940s classroom. Grab a stool at the window for bustling laneway views and a menu of well-

cooked peasant staples. A wonderful warm antipasto platter of fried ricotta, eggplant fritters and marinated veg alongside salumi is a great opener on a menu where the limited choice for a main might include a spiced braise of tripe with potato, lima beans and parmesan. End with an orange-scented ricotta cannoli and a stovetop coffee. 253 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, (03) 9650 4399.

south yarra & beyond DA NoiOn our last visit to Da Noi, the cooking of Pietro Porcu and his team had achieved a pitch approaching a perfection that leaves you a little heady – or maybe that was the wine list loaded with Italian classics. No, it was (mainly) the food – so throw yourselves at the mercy of the kitchen with the degustation and let waves of Sardinian-influenced flavour crash over you. Dishes might include roast kid or suckling pig; slow-cooked lamb with honey; saffron and pea arancini; or snapper broth with couscous-like fregolina. This is casalinga cookery – honest and robust – with friendly service to match. In winter, beg for a table near the fireplace. 95 Toorak Rd, South Yarra, (03) 9866 5975.

cAFFe e cuciNAThis influential Italian stalwart started the careers of restaurateurs Maurice Terzini and Mauro Marcucci, and created a legion of imitators. These lads may have moved on but their legacy of a cosy interior with sultry lighting remains an attraction for those seeking crowd-pleasing Italian. The calamari St Andrea here probably started Melbourne’s long-running and ubiquitous craze for rocket, lemon and calamari. 581 Chapel St, South Yarra, (03) 9827 4139.

cAFFe VeloceA recent opening by Mauro Marcucci, Caffe Veloce sits in a showroom full of classic Italian sports cars. If available, try the skinny spaghetti tossed with a rich, red-wine sauce with plump black olives and little tangles of octopus. Definitely finish with their house-made biscotti. 9-11 Claremont St, South Yarra, (03) 8080 9995.

PizzA e ViNoThis new, modern pizzeria careens along like a runaway train – it may be noisy and feels slightly chaotic, but it all works rather well in spite of this fact. They’re also fantastic with kids, who will be enthralled by the dough-tossing displays and love the margherita pizza that comes with a topping of splayed frankfurts. 517 Malvern Rd, Hawksburn Village, Toorak, (03) 9826 8815.

Pizza e Vino’s owner, Luca Lorusso, also runs the smaller, calmer and smarter Cafe Latte (521 Malvern Rd, Toorak, (03) 9826 5846) next door.

The GRANDIf you’re in Richmond, The Grand offers a smart dining room in an old pub with polished Italian, and there’s nothing stuffy about it. 333 Burnley St, Richmond, (03) 9429 2530.

PizzeRiA AMiciThis no-frills pizzeria is “so hot right now” thanks to the La Fila pizza, topped with prawns, tomato, artichokes, parsley, basil, garlic and lemon. They also have a gluten-free pizza with a base made from chickpea flour, which is taken from a Medieval recipe. 100 Burdundy St, Heidelberg, (03) 9459 0907.

If you want something more burnished down this way, try Va Tutto (226 Upper Heidelberg Rd, Ivanhoe, (03) 9499 7769).

southbank & st kilda GiuSePPe ARNAlDo & SoNSMaurice Terzini and Robert Marchetti have returned to Melbourne from their Sydney adventure at Icebergs and North Bondi Italian Food to launch this modern take on a traditional Roman trattoria, which is named after their dads. The big space is cleverly split up by pods lined with colourful Sicilian tiles. Expect a shimmery, glamorous clientele and Robert’s stylish take on Italian food, which is anchored by such positives as local artisan Italian cold cuts, and cheeses expertly aged by Richard Thomas of de Bortoli. Shop 25, Crown Complex, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank, (03) 9292 8888.

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Sarti set for the lunchtime crowd. Clockwise from top right: warm service at the Enoteca Vino Bar; relaxing among their rustic decor; chocolate and chestnut semifreddo at Sarti; 

enjoy artisan pizzas at I Carussi II;  their gorgonzola and leek pizza. 

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ScuSAMiThis expensive showpiece, with great views of the Yarra from its balconies, offers some interesting menu twists like scampi carpaccio, and zabaglione whisked “live” at the table and served with toasted panettone in the best Milanese style. There’s also the cheaper L’Osteria eatery attached. Mid lvl Southgate, 3 Southgate Ave, Southbank, (03) 9699 4111.

TuTTo BeNeWith the same views as Scusami, but less swanky interior and prices, Simon Humble’s risotteria is great for seasonal risotto – perhaps with wild mushrooms,

and roast duck in marsala broth. Their gelato won big in a recent medal haul – try the gold-awarded banana, or hazelnut and vibrant strawberry, which both won silver. Shop 28, Mid lvl, Southgate, Southgate Ave, Southbank, (03) 9696 3334.

cAFe Di STASioThe crisp white jackets of the waiters, the polished clientele, the intimate interior – this could be Melbourne’s quintessential Italian restaurant. It’s as much about the experience led by exemplary maitre d’ Mallory Wall and quixotic owner Ronnie di Stasio as the famed dishes, such as their crayfish omelette, or maltagliata pasta with

radicchio and calamari. The $30 set lunch is a fine deal – even if you pay extra for a second glass of wine and sides, but regulars can get better service than first-timers. 31 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, (03) 9525 3999.

MelBouRNe WiNe RooMThe kitchen that TV chef Karen Martini oversees is capable of turning out great modern Italian, but request to sit in the restaurant area with its huge mirror and groovy lighting, rather than the raucous bar – unless you want to shout rather than whisper into your partner’s ear. They do good steak, oysters and bar snacks, too. 125 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, (03) 9525 5599.

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Outdoor dining at  Grossi Florentino. Clockwise from left: the striking interior of Pizza e Vino; classic casalinga cooking at Da Noi.

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PizzA e BiRRACarb-avoiders should choose the grilled calamari with rocket, radicchio salad and salsa verde rather than the large pizzas at this six-month-old Southern arm of Mauro Marcucci’s popular Sydney pizzeria. Carb-lovers, on the other hand, should head straight for the folded calzone; a tomato-free pizza bianco topped with olives and Italian sausage; or a version with Taleggio, mozzarella, gorgonzola and parmesan that’s freshened by the addition of radicchio and pear. 60 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, (03) 9537 3465.

i cARuSi iiOpened by Pietro Barbagallo (a leading contender for the title of Melbourne‘s best pizzaiolo, and pioneer of the thin-crust, artisinal style pizza), this whitewashed room with a restrained farmhouse ambience, still tries to live up to Pietro’s vision, even though he has moved on. Expect good elastic dough carrying well-judged toppings of leek and gorgonzola, or peach and white chocolate, perhaps. 231 Barkly St, St Kilda, (03) 9593 6033.

For other St Kilda Italian moments, try the pizzas and antipasti dishes from Mr Wolf (9-15 Inkerman St, St Kilda, (03) 9534 0255), which is part of the lovely Ms Martini’s empire, or the understated Bar Santo (7 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, (03) 9534 1236). For breakfast, it has to be a custard bomboloni doughnut and a doppio (double espresso) at Baker D. Chirico (Shop 3-4, 149 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, (03) 9534 3777).

north-west wonderscARlToN eSPReSSoTony Nicolini has made a fair fist of reinventing the Lygon Street cafe for the modern age. On the menu at this smooth spot are piadine, panini and a few little cakes. Round the corner in the old Vue de monde site is his pizzeria, DOC (295 Drummond St, Carlton, (03) 9347 2998) – a buzzy celebration of all things Italian, focusing on cured meats, mozzarella and the artisan thin-crust pizzas that made Nicolini’s name at Templestowe Espresso. 326 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9347 8482.

ARRiVeDeRciFew places can boast as many regulars as this professional Italian, which should be famous nationally for its pork chops. 191 Nicholson St, Carlton, (03) 9347 8252.

WooDSTocKUnpretentious and unashamedly Italian, the food here is simple and from the south. Anita Cannata’s gnocchi, and eggplant croquettes with chilli oil are things of legend, while son Tony does the woodfired pizzas. A Sicilian topping of egg, peas and pepper is a cracker. 612 Nicholson St, Fitzroy North, (03) 9481 8122.

BRuNeTTiFrom early til late, this is a place to come for great coffee, Italian pastries and a dizzying selection of biscotti, from amaretti to the famous brutti e buoni (ugly but good). Great for people watching, too. 194-204 Faraday St, Carlton, (03) 9347 2801.

TiAMoThis moody cafe, and Lygon Street icon, is older than most of the Italian soccer team. It is the place to rest your elbows on the table for a correctly prepared carbonara and other old-school classics. To conclude it has to be the tiramisu, or a wander down the street to Il Dolce Freddo (116 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9639 3344) for a Ferrero Rocher ice cream. 303 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9347 5759.

eNoTecA ViNo BARSet up by one of Australia’s leading importers of Italian produce and wine, this place oozes solid Italian respectability. I still dream about the tripe I’ve eaten here, but I’m equally happy with a plate of their imported cheeses, some of the smaller assaggini dishes like salted cod fritters with a puntarelle (chicory) salad, or bucatini pasta with guanciale (cured pork) and salted ricotta. 920 Lygon St, Carlton North, (03) 9389 7070.

ABRuzzo cluBOne suspects that Italian dialects are the first language of the majority of both the waiters and the clientele at this noisy, old-school Italian. Call ahead to order one of their huge polentas served on a wooden board. Or nip in for wonderful handmade pasta – if you’re lucky, it’s been cut on the chitarra (a harp-shaped pasta-cutting tool) by a team of local nonnas who come in each week to keep this Abruzzese tradition alive. 377 Lygon St, Brunswick East, (03) 9388 2681.

Slicing cured meats at DOC. From far left: Carlton Espresso; traditional Italian at Woodstock.

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SuGARDouGhThis cute bakery cafe set-up, on the site of a 50-year-old pasticceria, still uses some of their old recipes for treats like torta di ricotta, crostata and their famous bomboloni with chocolate, custard, plum or apricot filling. Or order one of their decadently thick Italian hot chocolates. 163 Lygon St, Brunswick East, (03) 9380 4060.

lADRoLadro’s popularity has never dipped, for their pizzas served in this small, but cool, crowded room of marble-topped tables. Yet the return of the wonderfully talented Rita Macali (after illness) to the pans three days a week is cause for renewed celebration – and not just because her pannacotta is one of the city’s best. Welcome back, Rita! 224 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, (03) 9415 7575.

GeRTRuDe ST eNoTecAThis groovy wine bar, run by Italian oenophile James Broadway and Brigitte Hafner, offers great wines and snacky food. 229 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, (03) 9415 8262.

A Melbourne cafe pioneer, Marios (303 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, (03) 9417 3343) serves great coffee even an ornery Italian would respect. Other charming spots worth visiting in this area include Sosta Cucina (12 Errol St, North Melbourne, (03) 9329 2882); Kin (499-501 Lygon St, Carlton North, (03) 9387 8337); Cafe Bedda (242 High St, Northcote, (03) 9482 9420); and Pizza Meine Liebe (231 High St, Northcote, (03) 9482 7001).

where to shop BAKeRS AND PASTicceRieWhile Melbourne’s undergone an explosion in sourdough baking, authentic Italian breads are harder to find. Try Fatto a Mano (228 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, (03) 9417 5998), O’Heas Bakery Deli (203 O’Hea St, Coburg, (03) 9354 8070) and Baker D. Chirico (see Southbank & St Kilda). For biscuits and pastries, try the biscotti, panzerotti and sought-after sfogliatella ai ricotta at Brunetti (see North-West Wonders). They also sell gelati but you’ll find a wilder range of flavours such as zabaglione with almond bread at Gelobar Pasticceria (74 Lygon St, Brunswick East, (03) 9388 1419).

FooD SToReSThanks to the success of Italian exports and waves of migration, Melbourne has plenty of alimentari (grocery stores) where you’ll hear people ordering in Italian.

The bustling Mediterranean Wholesalers (482 Sydney Rd, Brunswick, (03) 9380 4777) has sardines, buckets of salt-packed capers, hundreds of different pastas, and cheeses such as salted ricotta, Reggiano and fontina. They also have a very Italian cafe and pastry section.

Smaller, but no less exhilarating, is Maria’s Coffee House (793 Nicholson St, Carlton North, (03) 9380 5488), which is skewed more towards artisan products and cheeses, like a choice of provolones. For fresh pasta, visit Maria’s Select Foods (677 Nicholson St, Carlton North, (03) 9380 5800). In the east, you can try Cardamone (143 Station St, Fairfield, (03) 9481 0586).

Also for fresh pasta, try Donninis Pasta (398 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9347 1655) or Yarra Valley Pasta (03 5962 1888) at the Prahran Market or in selected delis.

For a boutique grocery experience, try King and Godfree (293 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9347 1619), where you’ll find wines, imported oils and vinegars and cheeses. A similarly sexy range of boutique products, including rices, artisan pastas, vin cotto and fine wines, can be found at the retail arm of Italian importer Enoteco Sileno (920 Lygon St, Carlton North, (03) 9389 7000).

BuTcheRSLeo Donati’s magnificent guanciale (cured pig’s cheek) has lifted many a pedestrian pasta all’amatriciana to new levels of deliciousness. You’ll find him and his son, Marcello, at Donati’s Fine Meats (402 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9347 4948).

Otherwise, try the Veneto-style salami at R&A Selected Meats (785 Nicholson St, Carlton North, (03) 9380 1357) or nip over to Brenta Meats (103 Station St, Fairfield, (03) 9489 0820) for Italian cuts, salsicce (sausages) and goat. Gervasi Foodworks (870 Sydney Rd, Brunswick, (03) 9386 0170) is an Italian supermarket with a butchery for smallgoods and Italian sausages.

BoTTle ShoPSBesides bottle-os connected to food stores, it’s worth checking out specialists like Tre Bicchieri (623 Rathdowne St, Carlton North, (03) 9347 0989) and Gertrude St Enoteca (see North-West Wonders) for unique, premium Italian wines. d.

Fresh selections at Baker D. Chirico. From far left: spaghetti marinara at Abruzzo Club; gelati at  Il Dolce Freddo.