“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.

So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

Beijing

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Daniel McCrohanDavid Eimer

Plan Your Trip 1

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ContentsContents

Welcome to Běijīng ...............................4

Běijīng’s Top 13 ................6

What’s New .................... 15

Need to Know ................ 16

First Time Běijīng .......... 18

Getting Around ............. 20

Top Itineraries ...............22

If You Like .......................24

Month by Month ............27

With Kids ....................... 30

Like a Local .................... 31

For Free ..........................33

Eating �������������������������� 34Drinking & Nightlife �� 42Entertainment ������������ 44Shopping ��������������������� 46

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand Běijīng 203

Survival Guide 243

Běijīng Maps 282

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Běijīng 48

Transport .....................244

Directory A–Z ..............253

Language .....................267

Index .............................275

Běijīng Today .............. 204

History ......................... 206

Historic Hútòng ...........222

Arts ...............................227

Architecture .................237

Religion & Belief .......... 241

Neighbourhoods at a Glance ������������������ 50Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central ....... 52

Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North .........82

Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South ..... 106

Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North ..............116

Dashilar & Xīchéng South ............. 130

Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng ...138

Summer Palace & Hǎidiàn ...................... 157

The Great Wall ���������� 170

Day Trips from Běijīng ���������������183

Sleeping ��������������������� 191

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Forbidden City& Dōngchéng

Central(p52)

Dashilar &Xīchéng South

(p130)

Temple ofHeaven Park &

Dōngchéng South(p106)

Summer Palace& Hǎidiàn

(p157)

Drum Tower &Dōngchéng

North(p82)

Sānlǐtún &Cháoyáng

(p138)

Běihǎi Park& Xīchéng

North(p116)

(left) Food p34 A deli-cious highlight of any trip to Běijīng

(above) Chinese tea p77 Traditional tea ceremony

(right) Forbidden City p54 Dragon relief carv-ing on a city wall

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The Great Wall (p170)

1 China’s most famous landmark, and one of the world’s superlative manmade

sights, the Great Wall snakes its way across northern China for almost 9000km, but no-where beats Běijīng as a base for mounting your assault. Scattered throughout the mu-nicipality are more than a dozen fragmented stretches, from the perfectly chiseled to the charmingly dilapidated. You can get to them by bus, by train, by taxi…even by bicycle. And the adventurous can hike along it for days. GREAT

WALL AT JĪNSHĀNLǏNG

1 The Great Wall

Forbidden City (p54)

2 The largest palace complex in the world, the Forbidden City is the be-all and end-

all of dynastic grandeur, with imposing halls, splendid gates and age-old relics. No other place in Běijīng teems with so much history, legend and imperial intrigue. You could spend hours wandering its vast squares and high-walled passageways, which lead to delightful courtyards, gardens and minimuseums, and give you plenty of time to contemplate the enormity of shuffling your way around the place that 24 emperors of China called home.

1 Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central

Běijīng’s

Top 13

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Tiān’ānmén Square (p62)

3 The world’s largest public square is a vast

desert of paving stones at the heart of Běijīng. It’s also a poignant epitaph to China’s democracy move-ment, which was quashed by the People’s Liberation Army here in June 1989. The stringent security can be off-putting, but such is its iconic status, few visitors leave Běijīng with-out coming here. Get up early and watch the dawn flag-raising ceremony, or wander by later on to see the surrounding buildings lit up at night. GREAT HALL OF

THE PEOPLE

1 Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central

Hútòng (p222)

4 The heart and soul of Běijīng are its hútòng:

the intoxicating alleyways that criss-cross the centre of the city. Still home for many locals, these unique lanes not only tie the capital to its ancient past – some lanes date back al-most 800 years – but offer the chance to experience Běijīng street life in all its raucous and cheerful glory. Wandering or cycling the hútòng during the day, and returning at night to some of the many bars and res-taurants that now inhabit them, is an essential part of any visit to Běijīng.

1 Historic Hútòng

Temple of Heaven Park (p108)

5 The ultimate expres-sion of the eternal

Chinese quest for order, Temple of Heaven Park contains sheer geometric perfection: a series of stun-ning shrines – including the iconic Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests – where the sons of heaven, China’s emperors, came to pray for divine guidance. Every-thing about them – colour, shape, sound – has an esoteric significance that’s mind-boggling to contem-plate. Surrounding them is a delightfully soothing park, where locals come to stroll, sing and dance, or to just sit under the gnarled cypress trees planted here hundreds of years ago. HALL

OF PRAYER FOR GOOD HARVESTS

1 Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South

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Lama Temple (p84)

6 Central Běijīng’s largest, most im-portant and most atmospheric Bud-

dhist temple, the serene Lama Temple used to be home to legions of monks from Mongolia and Tibet and was where the reincarnation of the Panchen Lama was determined. These days it is still an active temple, although tourists now outnumber the monks. There are five beautiful central halls, the last of which houses the world’s largest sandalwood Buddha.

1 Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North

Summer Palace (p159)

7 The imperial summer playground, the Summer Palace is a beguiling,

superbly landscaped collection of temples, pavilions, gardens, lakes, bridges and corridors. Less formal than the Forbid-den City, there is still more than enough elegance and beauty in its many struc-tures to take your breath away. Clamber up Longevity Hill, pausing for breath at the various temples that dot it, for splen-did views across Běijīng, or promenade around Kūnmíng Lake and imagine what it must have been like to have had this place all to yourself.

1 Summer Palace & Hǎidiàn

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Peking Duck (p35)

8 You can’t leave Běijīng without sampling its

most iconic dish. Once re-served for emperors and mandarins, Peking duck be-gan to feature on the menus of the lower orders at the beginning of the 20th century. Now there are a number of specialist kǎoyā (roast duck) restaurants and the dish – juicier and more flavoursome than the crispy duck you get back home – is as much a part of Běijīng’s fabric as the streets themselves.

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Drum & Bell Towers (p86)

9 Standing watch over one of the most

charming corners of Běijīng (although developers have their eyes on it), these two magnificent ancient tow-ers, facing each other on either side of a small public square, used to be the city’s official timekeeper, with drums and bells beaten and rung to mark the times of the day. Climb the Drum Tower to listen to a body-rumbling perfor-mance played out on rep-lica drums or climb either tower for a bird’s-eye view of the surrounding hútòng.

1 Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North

Chinese Performing Arts (p26)

10 Whether it’s the chance to experi-

ence the intricate, highly stylised Peking opera, or tumbling, spinning and high-wire-walking acrobats, to say nothing of shaven-headed Shàolín monks showing off their supreme fighting skills, Běijīng is a great place to catch a show. There are performances every night of the week, giv-ing you no excuse to miss out. And don’t be put off by the language barrier: most shows are easy to follow. Acrobatics in particular is a stunning spectacle. CHÁO­

YÁNG ACROBATIC THEATRE

3 Arts

Hòuhǎi Lakes (p120)

11 These three inter-connected lakes are

one of the great outdoor areas in Běijīng and a prime spot to watch, and join, the locals at play. Ringed by bars and restaurants, the lakes themselves provide much of the entertainment. In the summer, flotillas of pedalos take to the water. During the winter, the lakes are the best place in the capital to ice skate. Then there’s fishing, kayaking and swimming (for the brave). But perhaps the most amenable option is simply meandering around them, enjoying the sight of Beijingers letting their hair down. TOURISTS ON A BOAT AT

HÒUHǍI LAKE

2 Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North

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Pānjiāyuán Market (p154)

12 Save some time at the end of your trip to visit this treasure-filled out-

door market and head home with armfuls of unusual souvenirs. Pānjiāyuán is the best place in Běijīng to shop for arts, crafts and (mostly fake) antiques, and even if you don’t want to buy anything, it’s fun to wander through the clutter.

7 Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng

798 Art District (p140)

13 Housed inside the cavernous buildings of a disused electronics factory, 798 has become the city’s premier art district. It celebrates its proletarian roots via

retouched red Maoist slogans decorating gallery interiors and statues of burly, lantern-jawed workers dotting the lanes, while the voluminous factory workshops are ideally suited to ambitious projects requiring lots of space. Cafes dot the streets, making this a pleasant spot for lunch before you plug yourself in to the world of China’s leading artists. AN ARTIST IN HER STUDIO IN 798 ART DISTRICT

1 Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng

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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MTR/MRT station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

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LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

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State/Province

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Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

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BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

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Information Routes

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Sights

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Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Běijīng Maps

282 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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æ Sights (p64) 35 Nanluogu Xiang ...........................................C1 1 Ancient Observatory ................................. H6 36 Oriental Plaza.............................................. E6 2 China Art Museum......................................D3 37 Shèng Xī Fú Hat Store ............................... D5 3 Dōng'ān Mén Remains ...............................D5 38 Slow Lane .................................................... F4 4 Former French Post Office ........................D7 39 Wangfujing Dajie......................................... D5 5 Galaxy Soho................................................ H3

6 Imperial Granaries ...................................... H1 Ø Sports & Activities (p78) 7 Lao She Museum ........................................D4 40 Bike Beijing.................................................. D3 8 Poly Art Museum ........................................ H1 41 Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat................. C5 9 Shèng Xī Fú Hat Museum ..........................E2 42 Imperial City Ruins Park.............................D1 10 Shǐjiā Hútòng Museum............................... F4 43 Jǐngshān Table Tennis Park...................... B2 11 St Joseph's Church ....................................D4 44 Mílún Kungfu School.................................. E4 12 St Michael's Church ................................... E7

13 Ten Fu's Tea Culture House ......................E4 ÿ Sleeping (p194) 14 Zhìhuà Temple ........................................... H4 45 Běijīng City Central International Youth Hostel........................................................ G7 ú Eating (p71) 46 Běijīng Saga International Youth Hostel .G4 15 Běijīng Dàdǒng Roast Duck Restaurant .. F5 47 City Walls Courtyard...................................B1 16 Brian McKenna @ The Courtyard.............C5 48 Côté Cour .....................................................F3 17 Chuān Bàn ...................................................H5 49 Hilton Běijīng Wángfǔjǐng .......................... E5 18 Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant ..........F1 50 Hulu Hotel.....................................................F3 19 Dōnghuámén Night Market.......................D4 51 Jǐngshān Garden Hotel .............................. C2 20 Dōngzi Lǘròu Huǒshāo ............................. G4 52 Park Plaza.................................................... F4 Grandma's .........................................(see 32) 53 Raffles Běijīng .............................................D6 21 Little Yúnnán ...............................................D2 54 Red Capital Residence................................ F1 22 Mǎn Fú Lóu ..................................................B2 55 Red Wall Garden......................................... F4 23 Temple Restaurant.....................................C2 56 Regent Běijīng............................................. E4 24 Wángfǔjǐng Snack Street...........................D6 57 Temple Hotel............................................... C2 25 Wǔgē Jīchì.....................................................F1 58 YMCA Hotel................................................. E5 26 Yuèbīn Fànguǎn ..........................................D3

27 Zuǒ Lín Yòu Shè ..........................................D2 ï Information (p253) 59 ATM .............................................................. E2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p74) 60 Bank of China.............................................. D4 28 Alley Coffee..................................................C2 61 Běijīng Tourist Information Center .......... D5 29 Slow Boat Brewery Taproom.....................F1 62 Běijīng Tourist Information Center .......... G7 30 What? Bar ....................................................A4 63 Běijīng Union Hospital ............................... E5 64 Běijīng Wángfǔjǐng Pharmaceutical ý Entertainment (p76) Store.......................................................... D5 31 Cháng'ān Grand Theatre .......................... G6 65 Citibank........................................................G6 Star City .............................................(see 36) 66 CITS.............................................................. E5 67 HSBC............................................................G6 þ Shopping (p76) Watson's............................................ (see 36) 32 Běijīng apm..................................................D5

33 Foreign Languages Bookstore..................D5 ï Transport (p244) 34 Háoyuán Market .........................................D5 68 CITS - International Train Tickets ............G6

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æ Top Sights (p84) 31 Xù Xiāng Zhāi 64 Famous Tea of China ... C5 1 Bell Tower ...................... A4 Vegetarian 65 Giant ............................... E5 2 Drum Tower................... A5 Restaurant .................. E4 66 JH 2nd-hand Bike 3 Lama Temple..................F3 32 Yáng Fāng Lamb Shop..............................F5 Hotpot ......................... B5 67 Jīngchéng Bǎixìng.........D4 æ Sights (p88) 33 Yáojì Chǎogān................ B5 68 Plastered 8.....................C6 4 Arrow Factory................ E3 34 Yī Lóng Zhāi ...................B6 69 Ruìfúxiáng ...................... A5 5 Confucius Temple & 35 Zhāng Māma..................D6 70 Tiān Yì Goods Market ... A7 Imperial College ......... E4 36 Zhāng Māma (Original

6 Dadu Museum of Art .... E4 Branch) .......................D4 Ø Sports & Activities (p104) 7 Dìtán Park ....................... E1 71 Black Sesame Kitchen .C6 8 Fire God Temple............D4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p98) 72 Culture Yard ...................F5 9 Mao Dun's Former 37 Ball House...................... B5 73 Drum & Bell Square...... A5 Residence ...................C6 38 Black-tea Tea Room.....C4 74 Jīnsè Fēilún Bike Shop . D5 10 Nanluogu Xiang............. C7 39 Cafe Confucius.............. E4 75 Mào'ér Lǎolǐ Health 11 Qi Baishi's Former 40 El Nido ............................D4 Club..............................C6 Residence ................... B6 41 Essence.......................... A5 76 Natooke.......................... E3 42 Great Leap Brewing...... B6 77 Qīngnián Hú Park...........B1 ú Eating (p93) 43 Hippo ..............................G4 78 The Hutong.....................F5 12 Bǎihé Vegetarian 44 If ......................................C4

Restaurant.................. G5 45 Irresistible Cafe.............B6 ÿ Sleeping (p196) 13 Bāozi Pù ......................... C5 46 Mado...............................B4 79 161 Lama Temple 14 Café De La Poste............F4 47 Mài ..................................C4 Courtyard Hotel .........G4 15 Café Sambal .................. A4 48 Mao Mao Chong Bar..... D7 80 Běijīng Downtown 16 Chez Gérard .................. E4 49 Modernista.....................B4 Backpackers...............C6 17 Chóngqìng Kǒngliàng 50 Niǎn Bar .........................C4 81 Confucius Huǒguō.........................F5 51 Other Place ....................C3 International 18 Dàlǐ Courtyard ............... C5 52 Salud...............................C6 Youth Hostel............... E3 19 Ghost Street ...................F5 53 Three Trees Coffee.......C6 82 Courtyard 7.................... C5 20 Jiānbing Savoury 54 Zá Jiā .............................. A4 83 DùGé...............................C6 Pancake Vendour .......F4 84 Nostalgia Hotel.............. E4 21 Jīn Dǐng Xuān..................F2 ý Entertainment (p101) 85 Old Běijīng Square 22 Little Sheep.................... G5 55 Jiāng Hú .........................D6 Hotel ............................B4 Noodle In...............(see 18) 56 Jiāng Jìn Jǐu ................... A5 86 Orchid.............................B4 23 Róng Tiān Sheep 57 Mao Livehouse .............. C5 87 Peking Youth Hostel.....C6 Spine............................ B4 58 Pénghāo Theatre ..........D6

24 Source ............................ D7 59 Star Live ..........................F2 ï Information (p253) 25 Stuff'd............................. E3 Tango KTV ........... (see 59) 88 Dōngchéng Disease 26 Tàn Huā Lamb BBQ.......F4 60 Temple Bar .................... B5 Prevention & 27 Taste...............................C6 61 Yúgōng Yíshān................E7 Control Centre............D6 28 Vineyard Café................ E3 89 Russian Embassy..........H4 29 Wǔ Jīn Cafe.................... E3 þ Shopping (p102)

30 Xiǎo Yú Shān ................. G5 62 C Rock ............................ C5

63 Esy Dragon Gift Shop ... C5

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æ Top Sights (p108) 1 Temple of Heaven Park................................B4

æ Sights (p111) 2 Animal Killing Pavilion ..................................D4 3 Běijīng Natural History Museum................. A5 4 Běijīng Planning Exhibition Hall ...................A1 5 Běijīng Railway Museum...............................A1 6 Divine Music Administration .......................B6 7 Echo Wall .......................................................C6 8 Fasting Palace ............................................... B5 9 Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests................ C5 10 Imperial Vault of Heaven .............................C6 11 Long Corridor ................................................ C5 12 Ming City Wall Ruins Park.............................E1 13 Qianmen Dajie............................................... A2 14 Red Stairway Bridge..................................... C5 15 Round Altar....................................................C6 16 Southeast Corner Watchtower & Red Gate Gallery ................................................. F1 17 Zhāohēng Gate..............................................C6

ú Eating (p113) 18 Biànyífāng ...................................................... D2 19 Capital M........................................................ A2 20 Dūyīchù .......................................................... A2 21 Lìqún Roast Duck Restaurant.....................B2 22 Lost Heaven....................................................A1 Old Běijīng Zhájiàng Noodle King ......(see 18) 23 Qiánmén Quánjùdé Roast Duck Restaurant .................................................. A2 24 Wedomé......................................................... D5 25 Xīn Tiān Yuàn..................................................A1

ý Entertainment (p115) 26 Red Theatre................................................... F4

þ Shopping (p115) 27 Hóngqiáo (Pearl) Market .............................D4 28 Toys City ........................................................D4

Ø Sports & Activities (p115) 29 NTSC Tennis Club ........................................D6

ÿ Sleeping (p202) 30 Emperor ........................................................ A2

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BĔIHĂI PARK & XĪCHÉNG NORTH æ Top Sights (p118) National Centre for the 1 Běihǎi Park...................................................D4 Performing Arts................................(see 9)

æ Sights (p120) þ Shopping (p129) 2 China Numismatic Museum......................D7 35 77th Street .................................................. B6 3 Great Hall of the People .............................D6 36 Běijīng Books Building ............................... B6 4 Guǎngjì Temple ...........................................B4 37 Sanfo (Fuchengmen)................................. A5 5 Hòuhǎi Lakes...............................................C2 38 Three Stone Kite Shop .............................. D3 6 Lu Xun Museum ..........................................A4 39 Yandai Xiejie................................................ D2 7 Mei Lanfang Former Residence................C3

8 Miàoyīng Temple White Dagoba...............A4 Ø Sports & Activities (p120) 9 National Centre for the Performing 40 Bike Hire ...................................................... D3 Arts (NCPA)..............................................D6 41 Bike Hire ...................................................... C2 10 Nine Dragon Screen ...................................C3 42 Golden Sail Water Sports Club................. C2 11 Prince Gong's Residence...........................C3 43 Hòuhǎi Exercise Park................................. C2 12 Round City ...................................................D4 44 Hòuhǎi Park................................................. C2 13 Silver Ingot Bridge ......................................D2

14 Song Qingling Former Residence.............C2 ÿ Sleeping (p198) 15 South Cathedral..........................................B7 45 Drum Tower Youth Hostel ........................ D2 16 Temple of Ancient Monarchs....................B4 46 Graceland Yard........................................... B2 17 White Dagoba..............................................D4 47 Intercontinental.......................................... A5 18 Xībiànmén Watchtower .............................A7 48 Red Lantern House .................................... B2 19 Xītiān Fánjìng...............................................D3 49 Red Lantern House West Yard ................. B4 20 Yǒngān Temple ...........................................D4 50 Ritz-Carlton................................................. A5 51 Shíchàhǎi Sandalwood Boutique Hotel... C3 ú Eating (p126) 52 Shíchàhǎi Shadow Art Hotel..................... C2 21 Guǎnshì Chìbā .............................................D3 53 Sleepy Inn.................................................... C2 22 Kǎo Ròu Jì ....................................................D2 54 Westin .......................................................... A5 23 Le Petit Saigon ............................................D2

24 Lǐjì Fēngwèi Měishí Cāntīng .......................D2 ï Information (p253) 25 Royal Icehouse............................................D3 55 Běihǎi Park East Gate ................................D4 26 Rùndélì Food Market ..................................C2 56 Běihǎi Park North Gate.............................. D3 27 Wang Pang Zi Donkey Burger ...................D2 57 Běihǎi Park South Gate .............................D4 58 Běihǎi Park West Gate ...............................C4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p128) 59 Běijīng Tourist Information Center .......... D3 28 Await Cafe....................................................B4

29 Hòuhǎi Bar Strip .........................................D2 ï Transport (p244) 30 Le Grenadier................................................D3 60 Běijīng North Train Station ....................... A2 31 NBeer Pub....................................................B3 61 Buses to Bādálǐng Great Wall and the 32 Tángrén Teahouse......................................D3 Ming Tombs ..............................................C1 62 Civil Aviation Administration of China ý Entertainment (p128) (CAAC)...................................................... C6 33 East Shore Jazz Café..................................D3 63 Ferry Dock (Jade Island) ...........................D4 34 Mei Lanfang Grand Theatre ......................A3 64 Ferry Dock (Northwest) ............................ C3 65 Qianmen Xi Bus Stop (for Bus 901)......... D7

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5 Gǒubùlǐ ......................................................... D1 Ø Sports & Activities 6 Liú Family Noodles .....................................C2 20 Bicycle Rental .............................................C2 7 Long Table ................................................... D1

ÿ Sleeping (p199) ý Entertainment (p134) 21 Leo Courtyard.............................................C2 8 Dàguānlóu Cinema ..................................... D1 22 Leo Hostel ...................................................D2 9 Húguǎng Guild Hall.....................................C3 23 Qiánmén Hostel...........................................D1 10 Lao She Teahouse ...................................... D1 Qiánmén Jiànguó Hotel.....................(see 11) 11 Líyuán Theatre ............................................C3 24 Three-Legged Frog Hostel........................C2 12 Tiānqiáo Acrobatics Theatre.....................D3

ï Transport (p244) þ Shopping (p136) 25 Tiānqiáo Long-Distance Bus Station.......D4 13 Cathay Bookshop ....................................... B1 26 Train Ticket Office...................................... C2

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g (p

144)

26 P

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4

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46

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28

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47

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6

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42)

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61)

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.(se

e 25

)

48

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7

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42)

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nkin

g &

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htlif

e (p

148)

4

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8

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C4

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ee 4

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79)

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men

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e 42

)

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e 25

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..B6

32

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6 ý

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8

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51

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12

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3

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.B5

52

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13

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phan

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2)

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.(se

e 64

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.E6

55

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B3

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56

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78)

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153)

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A7

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D8

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C7

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D3

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D3

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4

103

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golia

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3 ï

Info

rmat

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(p25

3)

104

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golia

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bass

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isa

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tion)

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C8

64

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lǐtún

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age

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D4

83

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2

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84

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8

106

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.E1

66

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7

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8

87

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ley

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acks

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2 Ø

Spo

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155)

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ssy.

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.D8

68

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litz

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.B8

89

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bodi

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2 1

11 T

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ssy

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7 6

9 B

odhi

The

rape

utic

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C

anad

a-C

hina

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ines

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ounc

il....

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ee 9

3)

112

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Em

bass

y....

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7

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ridg

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choo

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.D7

90

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adia

n E

mba

ssy

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..C2

113

UK

Em

bass

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isa

& C

onsu

lar S

ectio

n)...

......

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.E7

71

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gonf

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at...

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7

91 C

hina

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ia C

ham

ber o

f Com

mer

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B6

114

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ted

Par

cel S

ervi

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..D8

72

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ghuá

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hù A

ssoc

iatio

n...

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1

92 C

hina

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tain

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5 1

15 U

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ounc

il....

......

......

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8

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ool I

ce R

ink.

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

....(

see

60)

93

CIT

IC B

ank

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

.....B

8 1

16 V

ietn

am...

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

.C7

Yo

ga Y

ard.

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

..(s

ee 6

9)

Eu

rope

an U

nion

Cha

mbe

r of

C

omm

erce

in C

hina

......

......

......

......

......

......

.(se

e 97

) ï

Tra

nspo

rt

(p24

4)

ÿ S

leep

ing

(p19

9)

Fr

ench

Cha

mbe

r of C

omm

erce

&

A

irpor

t Exp

ress

......

......

......

......

......

......

......

.....

(see

117

)

73 A

Hot

el...

......

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4

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stry

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...(s

ee 9

7)

117

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gzhi

men

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nspo

rt H

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......

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2

74 C

onra

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..E5

9

4 G

erm

an E

mba

ssy.

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2 1

18 D

ongz

him

en W

ai B

us S

tand

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B2

75

Gal

lery

......

......

......

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......

......

......

......

C4

95

Hon

g K

ong

Inte

rnat

iona

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ical

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ic...

......

......

..A4

76

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iday

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ess.

......

......

......

......

......

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.B3

96

HS

BC

......

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..D8

301

SUM

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WestLake

SouthLake

South LakeIsland

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LongevityHill

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PhoenixMound

XiùyǐBridge

WillowBridge

ZǎojiànHall

Site of theZhìjìng Pavilion

WestPalaceGate

NorthPalaceGate

East PalaceGate

ChàngguānHall

Ferry Dock

BuddhistTenants Hall

TiàoyuǎnHouse

HarmoniousInterest Garden

YìshòuHall

JǐngfúPavilionTheatre

Stage

Hall ofBenevolence& Longevity

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0 500 m0 0.25 miles#e

æ Top Sights (p159) 10 Marble Boat..................................................B1 1 Summer Palace........................................... C1 11 Rowing Boat Dock...................................... C2 12 Wénchāng Gallery ...................................... C2 æ Sights (p159) 13 West Causeway ...........................................B1 2 17-Arch Bridge.............................................C3

3 Buddhist Fragrance Pavilion..................... C1 ÿ Sleeping (p201) 4 Buddhist Temple of the Sea of 14 Aman at Summer Palace ...........................C1 Wisdom ..................................................... B1

5 Cloud Dispelling Hall...................................C2 ï Transport (p159) 6 Dragon King Temple...................................C3 Boat Hire..............................................(see 11) 7 Gate Tower of the Cloud- 15 Boat Hire......................................................C3 Retaining Eves.......................................... B1 16 Boathouses ..................................................B1 8 Jade Belt Bridge..........................................B2 17 Rowing Boat Dock...................................... B2 9 Long Corridor.............................................. C1

302

WǔdàO

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Běijīng TouristInformation Center

BěijīngLanguage &

CultureUniversity

QīnghuáUniversity

911

14

6

7

2

10

13

12

1

18

17

16

4

8

5

153

Daliushu Lu

ShuangqingLu

Xueyuan NanluWeigongcun Lu

Beisihuan Xilu (North 4th Ring Rd)

Zhon

ggua

ncun

Don

glu

Chengfu Lu

Zhongguancun N

andajie

Xitucheng Lu

Xueyuan Lu

Haidian LuK

exue

yuan

Nan

lu

Zhichun Lu Zhichun Lu

Chengfu Lu

Caijingdong Lu

HuaqingJiayuan

Beisanhuan Xilu

RenminUniversity

Zhichunli

HaidianHuangzhuang

Weigongcun

Dazhongsi

East Gate ofPeking University

Zhichunlu

Wudaokou

Zhongguancun

Xitucheng

5

4

3

1

C

B C

2

5

4

3

1

2

B

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A D

D#e0 1 km

0 0.5 miles

æ Sights (p161) 7 Lǎo Chē Jì........................C1 þ Shopping (p168) 1 Arthur M Sackler 8 Salang-Bang ...................C1 14 Centergate Como ......... A2 Museum of Art &

Archaeology ................A1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p168) Ø Sports & Activities (p169) 2 Great Bell Temple.........C4 9 Lush .................................C1 15 China Study Abroad ......C1 3 Peking University...........A1 10 Propaganda ...................C2 16 Friendship Hotel............B4 4 Yuan-Dynasty Walls Wǔ ............................(see 7)

Relics Park .................. D3 11 Wǔdàokǒu Beer ÿ Sleeping (p201) Garden..........................C1 17 LTH Hotel........................C1 ú Eating (p167) 18 Peking Uni Bridge Café...........(see 10) ý Entertainment (p168) International 5 Golden Peacock ............ B5 12 13 Club.............................B1 Hostel ...........................B1 6 Isshin Japanese 13 UME International

Restaurant...................C1 Cineplex.......................B4

La Bamba..............(see 10)

303

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Our WritersDaniel McCrohanCoordinating author, Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central, Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North, Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North, The Great Wall, Day Trips from Běijīng, Sleeping, Plan Your Trip, Běijīng Today, History, Architecture, Religion & BeliefsDaniel has been living in Běijīng for more than a decade, trying in vain to perfect his ropey Chinese, while developing a taste for raw garlic (there’s no better accompaniment to a bowl of noodles, apparently). He is the creator

of the iPhone app Beijing on a Budget, a co-host for the TV series Best in China, and has written on Běijīng for more than a dozen publications. He also builds personal itineraries for travellers to China, Mongolia, India and Bangladesh. To find out more, and to watch some of the on-the-road videos Daniel makes while researching for Lonely Planet, see his website, danielmccrohan.com, or contact him through Twitter (@danielmccrohan).

David EimerTemple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South, Dashilar & Xīchéng South, Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng and Summer Palace & HǎidiànDavid first came to China in 1988, when both Westerners and cars were in short supply. After becoming a freelance journalist, and inspired by return trips to

China, he moved to Běijīng in 2005 and lived there for seven years. Currently based in Bangkok, David co-wrote the previous three editions of the Beijing guide, as well as working on the last four editions of the China guide. For this book, he also wrote the Historic Hútòng and Arts chapters and the Survivial Guide.

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Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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