“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.

So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

Bangkok

Austin Bush, Tim Bewer, Anita Isalska, Andy Symington

Plan Your Trip 12

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ContentsContents

Welcome to Bangkok ..... 4

Bangkok’s Top 10 ........... 6

What’s New .................... 13

Need to Know ................ 14

First Time Bangkok ....... 16

Top Itineraries ............... 18

If You Like ...................... 20

Month by Month ........... 22

With Kids ....................... 24

Eating ........................... 26

Drinking & Nightlife .... 35Entertainment ............ 39Shopping ...................... 43Sports & Activities .... 48LGBT Bangkok ............ 52

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand Bangkok 205

Survival Guide 235

Bangkok Maps 263

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Bangkok 54

Transport .................... 236

Directory A-Z ............... 241

Language .................... 248

Index ............................ 255

Bangkok Today .......... 206

History ......................... 208

People & Culture ........ 218

Food & Drink ............... 225

The Sex Industry in Thailand .................. 231

Neighbourhoods at a Glance .................. 56Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi .................... 58

Banglamphu ................. 77

Thewet & Dusit ............. 90

Chinatown ..................... 98

Siam Square, Pratunam, Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi ............ 108

Riverside, Silom & Lumphini ................. 125

Sukhumvit .................. 142

Northern Bangkok ..... 156

Excursions from Bangkok ........... 167

Sleeping ..................... 189

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Chinatown

Sukhumvit

Riverside,Silom & Lumphini

NorthernBangkok

Thewet& Dusit

Banglamphu

Ko Ratanakosin& Thonburi

Siam Square,Pratunam,

Phloen Chit &Ratchathewi

p156

p108

p90

p77

p58p98

p125

p142

(left) Kŏhn dance-drama p223 Based on the Thai epic, Ramakian.

(above) Street food p31 Bangkok is famous for it’s outdoor food stalls.

(right) Garuda at Wat Phra Kaew p64 Garuda are sacred birds who guard the temple.

Top ItinerariesDay OneKo Ratanakosin & Thonburi (p58)

M Get up as early as you can and take the Chao Phraya Express Boat north

to Chang Pier to explore one of Ko Ratana-kosin’s museums, such as the Museum of Siam, as well as one of its must-see temples, like Wat Pho.

Riverside, Silom & Lumphini (p125)

R Refresh with a spa treatment at Health Land or soothe those over-

worked legs with a traditional Thai massage at Ruen-Nuad Massage Studio. After freshening up, get a new perspective on Bangkok with a sunset rooftop cocktail at Moon Bar.

Riverside, Silom & Lumphini (p125)

N If you’ve still got it in you, head over to DJ Station, Telephone Pub or

any of the other bars and clubs in Bangkok’s small but lively gaybourhood. For a night that doesn’t end until the sun comes up, bang on the door at Wong’s Place.

Day TwoSiam Square, Pratunam, Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi (p108)

M Take the BTS (Skytrain) to National Stadium and start your day with a

visit to the popular and worthwhile museum that is Jim Thompson House. Follow this by exploring the nearby canalside neigh-bourhood of Baan Khrua or by paying your respects at the Erawan Shrine.

Siam Square, Pratunam, Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi (p108)

R Walk, or let the BTS escort you, through Bangkok’s ultramodern

commercial district, stopping off at linked shopping centres, including MBK Center, Siam Discovery, Siam Paragon and Siam Square. Make time for a sweet snack at Gourmet Paradise or an air-conditioned afternoon cuppa at the Erawan Tea Room.

Northern Bangkok (p156)

N If it’s Tuesday, Friday or Saturday, consider catching a Thai-boxing

match at Lumpinee Boxing Stadium, or if it’s Friday or Saturday, make a point of schlepping over to eastern Bangkok’s RCA/Royal City Ave to check out the clubs such as Route 66 or Onyx.

Dinner nahm (p133) serves what is arguably the best Thai food in Bangkok,

Lunch Plunge headfirst into Bangkok-style street food at Pa Aew (p74).

Dinner Dip into refined Thai dishes in a likewise setting at Saneh Jaan (p116).

Lunch MBK Food Island (p115) is a tasty introduction to Thai food.

18 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Day ThreeKo Ratanakosin & Thonburi (p58)

M Take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Chang Pier and set off on a long-

tail boat tour of Thonburi’s canals. Alter-natively, combine canals and the culinary arts with a visit to Amita Thai Cooking Class.

Banglamphu (p77)

R Spend the afternoon shopping at the Th Khao San Market and

visiting the surrounding sights, such as the Golden Mount and Wat Suthat. Or, if you’ve got energy to spare, book an af-ternoon or nighttime bike tour of the area

with an outfit such as Velo Thailand or Grasshopper Adventures.

Sukhumvit (p142)

N End the night with a Thai-themed cocktail at a cosy local, such as

WTF or Badmotel, or a craft beer at Hair of the Dog. If it’s still too early for you to turn in, extend the night with a visit to a club like Glow or Beam.

Day FourNorthern Bangkok (p156)

M If it’s a weekend, take the BTS north for a half day of shopping

at the Chatuchak Weekend Market. Otherwise, consider a half-day excursion outside the city to the provincial-feeling Nonthaburi Market, the artificial island of Ko Kret or the re-created ruins at Ancient City.

Chinatown (p98)

R Recover from the market in the relative cool of the late afternoon

before taking the MRT (metro) to China-town to visit the home of the Golden Bud-dha, Wat Traimit, and the Chinese-style Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. Consider popping over to Phahurat to sample that neighbourhood’s South Asian feel or,

if you’re there after dark, the nocturnal flower market at Pak Khlong Talat.

Banglamphu (p77)

N Make the brief taxi ride to Banglamphu and begin the even-

ing with drinks at Madame Musur, followed by a rowdy live-music show at Brick Bar or dancing at the Club. If bedtime is irrelevant, head for the rooftop

Dinner Take a temporary break from Thai food at Jidori Cuisine Ken (p147).

Lunch Take advantage of the air-con and spicy Thai dishes at Err (p74).

Dinner Follow our walking tour (p102) of Chinatown’s best street eats.

Lunch Chatuchak Weekend Market (p158) has cheap and tasty food stalls.

Erawan Shrine (p112)

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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254254

WRITER THANKSAustin BushA big thanks to Destination Editors Dora Ball and Clifton Wilkinson, as well as to all the people on the ground in Bangkok and northern Thailand.

Tim BewerA hearty kòrp jai lăi lăi dêu to the perpetually friendly people of Isan who rarely failed to live up to their reputation for friendliness and hospitality when faced with my incessant questions, in particular Prapaporn Sompakdee (especially for her crispy pork expertise) and Julian Wright. Special thanks to my wife Suttawan.

Anita IsalskaBig thanks to everyone who helped me on my travels in Thailand. Gratitude to Sai and Anna for the warm welcome and insights into the wild west, to the Tourism Authority of Thailand team in Kanchanaburi, and to Tim Bewer for helpful suggestions. I’d also like to thank the kids in Lopburi who helped this perplexed

travel writer wriggle free from a prematurely locked temple ground. Thanks always to Normal Matt for crackly Skype calls and support.

Andy SymingtonA great number of people, from taxi drivers to infor-mation officers, gave me excellent advice and help along the way; I’m very grateful to all of them. Specific thanks go to Siriporn Chiangpoon, Ian on Ko Chang, Maitri in Si Racha, Chayanan in Chanthaburi and the friendly Ang Sila volunteers.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Illustrations pp62–3 and pp66–7 by Michael Weldon.Cover photograph: Murals depicting scenes from the life of Buddha, Wat Pho, Jason Langley/AWL ©

Behind the Scenes

THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Bangkok guidebook was researched and written by Austin Bush, Tim Bewer, Anita Isalska and Andy Symington. Austin Bush wrote the previ-ous two editions.Destination Editors Tanya Parker, Dora Ball, Clifton Wilkinson

Product Editors Rachel Rawling, Kate ChapmanSenior Cartographers Diana Von Holdt, Mark GriffithsBook Designer Virginia MorenoAssisting Editors Judith Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Michelle Coxall, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Jennifer

Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Rosie Nicholson, Lou McGregor, Lauren O’Connell, Tamara ShewardCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Hannah Cartmel, Robin Daus, Grace Dobell, Keith A Liker, Charlotte Orr, Kathryn Rowan, Wibowo Rusli, Vicky Smith

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index7-Elevens 140100 Tonson Gallery 114

Aaccommodation 15, 189,

see also Sleeping subindex

Banglamphu 191, 192-5Chinatown 191, 195-7Dusit 191, 195Ko Ratanakosin 191, 192language 249Lumphini 191, 198-201Northern Bangkok 191,

203-4Phloen Chit 191, 197-8Pratunam 191, 197-8Ratchathewi 191, 197-8Riverside 191, 198-201Siam Square 191, 197-8Silom 191, 198-201Sukhumvit 191, 201-3Thewet 191, 195Thonburi 191, 192

activities 22-3, 48-51, also see Sports & Activities subindex

AIDS 233, 242air pollution 242air travel 236-7ambulance 242Amphawa 175-7Amulet Market 70-1Ananta Samakhom Throne

Hall 94animism 219antiques 44, 47architecture 21area codes 242art 221Artist’s House 71

Assumption Cathedral 127ATMs 243-4Ayuthaya Historical Park

168-71, 170, 168

BBaan Khrua 113Baiyoke Tower II 114-15bà·mèe 28, 28Ban Baat 79-80Bangkok Art & Culture

Centre 112Bangkok CityCity Gallery

13, 128Bangkok University Art

Gallery 145Banglamphu 6, 56-7, 77-

89, 77, 268-9accommodation 191,

192-5drinking & nightlife 78,

84-5entertainment 85, 87food 78, 82-4highlights 77-8, 80, 82shopping 78, 87sights 79-82sports & activities 87-9walks 86, 86

Bangkokian Museum 127bargaining 17, 44bars 36, see also Drinking

& Nightlife subindexbeaches 172-3beer 37, 229Benjakiti Park 144-5bicycle travel 49, 50, 51boat travel 21, 238-9books 206, 219, 221Brahmanism 220-1Buddhism 219-20budgeting 14, 34, 47bus travel 236, 237, 240business hours 40, 44

Ccabaret 39-40canal trips 49, 76car travel 240cell phones 14, 246Chang Chui 161Chatuchak 286-7Chatuchak Weekend

Market 9, 158-60, 160, 9, 43, 158

children, travel with 24-5, 51, 161

chemists 243Children’s Discovery

Museum 161Chinatown 9, 57, 98-107,

272-3, 9, 17accommodation 191,

195-7drinking & entertainment

99, 107food 99, 104-7highlights 98-9, 100shopping 106sights 100-4transport 99walks 102, 102

Chinese cuisine 27Chinese influence 219Chinese New Year 22Chitlada Palace 95-6Chulalongkorn University

115Church of Santa Cruz 101Chuvit Garden 144cinemas 39, 223, see also

filmsclimate 15, 22-3climate change 236clothing 16, 36, 47

etiquette 70clubs 36, 38, 53, see also

Drinking & Nightlife subindex

cocktails 38constitutions 215consulates 241-2

cooking courses 12, 31, 50, 12

costs 14, 190counterfeits 44-5courses 50, 51, see also

cooking courses, Sports & Activities subindex

credit cards 244culture 206-7, 218-24, 230currency 14, 244curries 227customs regulations

230, 241cycling 48, 50, 51

Ddance 41, 223-4, 3, 5, 39dance clubs 36, 38, 53,

see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex

dangers, see safety, scamsDeath Railway Bridge

(Kanchanaburi) 182debit cards 244democracy 211-12Democracy Monument

81-2demographics 218dentists 243desserts 34disabilities, travellers with

246-7discount cards 245dôm yam 28, 28domestic calls 245Don Hoi Lot (Amphawa)

176Dream World 161dress codes 36drinks 37, 47, 229-30Dusit 57, 90-7, 270

accommodation 191, 195

drinking & nightlife 97entertainment 97food 96-7

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P258

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P259

3 ENTERTAINMENT P260

7 SHOPPING P260

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P261

4 SLEEPING P261

255©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Dusit continuedhighlights 90-1, 92-3sights 92-6transport 91

Dusit Palace Park 92-3, 92Dusit Zoo 94

Eeconomy 206-7embassies 241-2emergencies 242

language 251entertainment 39-42, see

also Entertainment subindex

Erawan National Park (Kanchanaburi) 185

Erawan Shrine 112-13etiquette 17

food 230public transport 237

events 22-3exchange rates 244

Ffestivals 22-3, 52films 39, 206, 223fires 242Fireflies Guided Tours

(Amphawa) 176fish sauce 226flu 242food 6, 20-1, 26, 26, 27,

30, 33, see also Eat-ing subindex, individ-ual neighbourhoods

brunch 148dinner cruises 132language 249noodles 84vegetarian 83

food courts 30-1foreign cuisine 34free activities 21fruit 227

Ggaang kĕe·o wăhn 28, 29Gallery VER 128gay travellers 52-3, 136,

243gems 44go-go bars 40

Golden Mount & Wat Saket 82

golf 48Grand Palace 64-8gyms 48

HH Gallery 128handicrafts 47health 242heat 242Hellfire Pass Memorial

(Kanchanaburi) 185Heritage Walking Street

(Kanchanaburi) 185history 208-17

Chakri Dynasty 208-9European influence

209-11military rule 215-17people’s constitution

212-13WWII 211-12

HIV 233, 242holidays 244-5Holy Rosary Church 103homewares 47hospitals 243Hualamphong Train

Station 101, 103human trafficking 234

Iidentification 36illegal activities 231-4immigration 218insurance 242international calls 245-6internet access 242-3internet resources 14,

36, 40, 44, 49, 53, 190, 245

itineraries 18-19

JJamjuree Art Gallery 115Japaness Village 147JEATH War Museum

(Kanchanaburi) 185jewellery 44Jim Thompson House 9,

110-11, 9, 110jogging 48

KKaeng Krachan National

Park (Petchaburi) 180-1

Kanchanaburi 182-7, 183

Kanchanaburi War Cemetery (Kanchanaburi) 183-4

Kathmandu Photo Gallery 128

Khao Laem Ya/Mu Ko Samet National Park (Ko Samet) 172-88

Khao San Rd 88, 6, 30Khao Yai 187-8Khao Yai Art Museum

(Khao Yai) 187Khao Yai National Park

(Khao Yai) 187Khlong Toey Market 144King Buddhalertla

(Phuttha Loet La) Naphalai Memorial Park (Amphawa) 176

King Prajadhipok Museum 79

Ko Kret 162Ko Ratanakosin 56, 265

accommodation 191, 192

drinking & nightlife 59, 75

entertainment 75food 59, 74-5highlights 58-9, 60-9sights 60-74sports & activities 75-6transport 59

Ko Samet 172-5, 174kôw mòk 28, 29kôw soy 28, 29

Llâhp 28, 29Lak Meuang 73language 14, 17, 248-53

courses 50legal matters 231-4, 243LGBT travellers 52-3,

136, 243life expectancy 218Lingam Shrine 113live music 40Loi Krathong 23Lumphini 57, 125-41,

277, 125accommodation 191,

198-201drinking & nightlife

126, 137entertainment 137food 126, 133-4highlights 125-6, 127,

129shopping 126, 137-40

sights 129sports & activities

140-1transport 126

Lumphini Park 129

Mmacaques 180Mae Nam Chao Phraya

10, 10Mahakan Fort 81malls 45, 47maps 263-87markets 30, 45, 47massage 48, 51

courses 50measures 245media 245medical services 243meditation 49mobile phones 14, 246monarchy 221money 14, 17, 190, 243-4moo·ay tai 40-1, 49, 51motorcycle taxis 239MR Kukrit

Pramoj House 127Museum of Contempo-

rary Art 161Museum of Siam 70museums 21, 24-5music 222-3Muslim cuisine 27-30

NNational Gallery 73National Library 94National Museum 71neighbourhoods 20Neilson Hays Library 129newspapers 53, 245nightlife 35-38, 135,

see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbour-hoods

Nonthaburi Market 161noodles 32, 226Northern Bangkok 57,

156-66, 156accommodation 191,

203-4drinking & nightlife 157,

164-5entertainment 165food 157, 162-4highlights 156-7,

158-60shopping 157, 165

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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sights 158-62sports & activities 166transport 157

Number 1 Gallery 128Numthong Gallery 161

OOctober 14 Memorial 81Old Customs House 127opening hours 40, 44, 244Or Tor Kor Market 161-2

Ppacking list 16Pak Khlong Talat 101parks & gardens 24pàt pàk bûng fai daang

28, 29pàt tai 28, 29Patpong 138Phahurat 103, 272-3Phahuyut 95pharmacies 243Phetchaburi (Phetburi)

178-82, 179Phloen Chit 57, 108-24,

108, 274-5accommodation 191,

197-8drinking & nightlife

109, 118-19entertainment 119-21food 109, 115-18highlights 108-9, 110-

11, 112shopping 109, 121-3sights 110-15sports & activities

123-4transport 109

Phra Nakhon Khiri Histori-cal Park (Phetchaburi) 178

Phra Ram Ratchaniwet (Phetchaburi) 180

Phra Sumen Fort & Santi Chai Prakan Park 81

pilates 48planning 16-17

Bangkok basics 14-15Bangkok’s neighbour-

hoods 56, 56-7budgeting 14, 34, 47children, travel with

24-5, 51, 161festivals & events

22-3, 52itineraries 18-19internet resources 14,

36, 40, 44, 49, 53, 190, 245

repeat visitors 13travel seasons 15, 22-3websites 14-15

playgrounds 24police 242politics 206-7pollution 242polygamy 210population 207, 218postal services 244Pratunam 57, 108-24,

108, 274-5accommodation 191,

197-8drinking & nightlife

109, 118-19entertainment 119-21food 109, 115-18highlights 108-9, 110-

11, 112shopping 109, 121-3sights 110-15sports & activities

123-4transport 109

prostitution 231-4public holidays 244-5

QQueen Saovabha

Memorial Institute 129

RRama V Memorial 94Ratchadamnoen

Contemporary Art Center 79

Ratchathewi 57, 108-24, 108, 271

accommodation 191, 197-8

drinking & nightlife 109, 118-19

entertainment 119-21food 109, 115-18highlights 108-9, 110-

11, 112shopping 109, 121-3sights 110-15sports & activities

123-4transport 109

RCA 287refunds 46, 245religion 219-21rice 226rice whisky 37

river trips 49Riverside 57, 125-41,

125, 280accommodation 191,

198-201drinking & nightlife

126, 134entertainment 137food 126, 129-31highlights 125-6, 127,

129shopping 126, 137-40sights 127-9sports & activities

140-1transport 126

rooftop bars 35-8, 38, see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, in-dividual neighbour-hoods

Royal Barges National Museum 72

Royal City Ave 163royal cuisine 27rum 37

Ssafety 16, 245salads 227Sampeng Lane 103Sanam Luang 71-2Sao Ching-Cha 80Saranrom Royal Garden

72-3Sathon Unique Tower 130scams 44, 245sex industry 231-4Shinawatra, Thaksin 213shophouses 30shopping 10, 43-7,

see also markets, Shopping subindex, individual neighbour-hoods

language 251Siam Park City 161Siam Society &

Kamthieng House 144Siam Square 57, 108-24,

274-5, 108, 274-5 accommodation 191,

197-8drinking & nightlife

109, 118-19entertainment 119-21food 109, 115-18highlights 108-9, 110-

11, 112shopping 109, 121-3sights 110-15

sports & activities 123-4

transport 109walks 120, 120

Silom 57, 125-41, 125, 278-9

accommodation 191, 198-201

drinking & nightlife 126, 134-7

entertainment 137food 126, 131-3highlights 125-6, 127,

129shopping 126, 137-40sights 127-9sports & activities 140-1transport 126

Silpakorn University 74Silpakorn University Art

Centre 71Siriraj Medical

Museum 70smoking 36, 245sôm·đam 28, 28Songkran 11, 22, 11soups 227souvenirs 47spas 48, 51, 154spirits 229sports 48-51, see also

Sights & Activities subindex

Sri Mariamman Temple 128-9

stir-fries 227street food 31, 34, 3, 6stupas 220Suan Pakkad Palace

Museum 112Subhashok The Arts

Centre 144Sukhumvit 57, 142-55,

142, 282-3accommodation 191,

201-3drinking & nightlife

143, 149-52entertainment 152-3food 143, 145-9highlights 142-3, 144shopping 153-5sights 144-5sports & activities 155transport 143

sweets 228

Ttailoring 45-6, 47Talat Mai 101

257IN

DEX N

-T

Talat Noi 101Tang Contemporary

Art 115tap water 242taxes 46, 245taxis 72, 151, 236, 237,

238telephone services 14,

242, 245-6temples 21, see also

individual wátsetiquette 70

Th Ratchadaphisek 287Thai boxing 40-1, 49, 51Thai people 218-24Thailand Creative &

Design Center 127Thailand-Burma Railway

Centre (Kanchanaburi) 182-3

Tham Khao Luang (Phetchaburi) 180

Thammasat University 73Thanon Bamrung

Meuang Religious Shops 79

Thavibu Art Gallery 128theatre 41, 223-4Theravada Buddhism 219Thewet 57, 90-7, 270

accommodation 191, 195

drinking & nightlife 91, 97

entertainment 97food 91, 96-7highlights 90-1, 92-3sights 92-3, 94-6transport 91

Thonburi 56, 265accommodation 191,

192drinking & nightlife

59, 75food 59, 74-5highlights 58-9, 60-9sights 60-74sports & activities 75-6transport 59

time 14, 246tipping 16, 17, 244toilets 246tourist information 14,

246tourist police 242

tours 49T-pop 223train travel 236, 237transgender people 52travel to Bangkok 15,

236-8travel within Bangkok 15túk-túk 239-40

VVegetarian Festival 23,

103vegetarian travellers 83,

103, 229-30Victory Monument 115views 38visas 14, 247visual arts 221

Wwalking 240walking tours

Banglamphu 86, 86Chinatown 102, 102Siam Square 120, 120

Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram (Amphawa) 176

Wat Arun 69, 55Wat Benchamabophit 94Wat Bowonniwet 79Wat Mahathat Worawihan

(Phetchaburi) 178Wat Mangkon

Kamalawat 101Wat Pho 12, 60-3, 12, 60Wat Phra Kaew 64-8, 3Wat Phra Si Sanphet 168Wat Ratchanatdaram 80Wat Saket Fair 23Wat Suthat 80Wat Traimit (Golden

Buddha) 100, 100Wat Yai Suwannaram

(Phetchaburi) 180wáts 220water 242weather 15, 22-3websites 14, 36, 40, 44,

49, 53, 190, 245weights 245whisky 37wineries 188women in Bangkok 231-4women travellers 247WWII 211-12

Yyam 28, 29YELO House 113yoga 48

5 EATING

10 O’Clock (Kanchanaburi) 186

80/20 105

AAmphawa Floating

Market (Amphawa) 176

Anotai 164Appia 147-8Arawy Vegetarian Food 83

BBaan Nual 83Baan Pueng Chom 163Bangkok Poutine 83Bei Otto 148Bharani 145Blue Rice

(Kanchanaburi) 185Bo.lan 148Bonita Cafe & Social

Club 132Boon Tong Kiat Singa-

pore Chicken Rice 145Bunker 133

CCabbages & Condoms 147Charcoal Tandoor Grill &

Mixology 146Chawang 74Chennai Kitchen 131China House 130Chote Chitr 83Coca Suki 118Cucina (Phetchaburi) 181

DDaimasu 131Daniel Thaiger 145-6Dao Tai 74Din Tai Fung 115

EEat Me 132Eathai 116Erawan Tea Room 117Err 74-5

FFood Loft 116Food Republic 116FoodPark 116Fou de Joie 13, 105Fuji Super 147

GGaa 116Game Over 146Gateway Ekamai 147Ginza Sushi-Ichi 116-17Ginzado 147Gokfayuen 145Gourmet Paradise 116

HHazel’s Ice Cream Parlor

and Fine Drinks 13Hemlock 83Hoon Kuang 105

IImoya 147In Love 96Indian Hut 131Indigo 132Ippudo 147Issaya Siamese Club 134

JJay Fa 83-4Jay So 131Jek Meng

(Phetchaburi) 181Jep’s Restaurant

(Ko Samet) 173Jidori Cuisine Ken 147

KKai Thort Jay Kee 133Kalapapruek 132Kaloang Home Kitchen 96Kaobahn 162-3Karim Roti-Mataba 82Keeree Tara

(Kanchanaburi) 186Khinlom Chom

Sa-Phan 96Khrua Khao Yai

(Khao Yai) 188Khua Kling Pak Sod 163Khun Daeng 84Khun Yah Cuisine 104Kimleng 82Kitt & Food

(Ko Samet) 173

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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Klang Soi Restaurant 145Koko 117Krua Apsorn 83, 96Krua ‘Aroy-Aroy’ 131

LLa Monita 117L’Atelier de Joël

Robuchon 133Le Normandie 130Library Cafe

(Kanchanaburi) 186Likhit Kai Yang 96Little Beast 148Lord Jim’s 131

MMarriott Café 148May Kaidee’s 83MBK Food Island 115Ming Lee 74Muslim Restaurant

129-30Myeong Ga 149

Nnahm 133Nai Mong Hoi Thod 104Nang Loeng Market 96Nasir Al-Masri 149Navy Club 75Nay Hong 104Nay Lék Ûan 104Never Ending

Summer 130Nirai-Kanai 147Nuer Koo 115Nuttaporn 82

OOld Siam Plaza 104-5On’s Thai-Issan

(Kanchanaburi) 185

PPa Aew 74Paper Butter & the

Burger 164Pathé 118Peppina 146Pier 21 145Pizza Romana Pala 146Poj Spa Kar 83Prai Raya 146Pua-Kee 84Puritan 163

QQuince 148

RRabieng Rimnam

(Phetchaburi) 181Rang Mahal 148Rarb 84Red Ginger

(Ko Samet) 173Roma Sausage

(Khao Yai) 188Royal India 106Ruam Tai 74

SSala Rattanakosin Eatery

& Bar 75Samsara 106-7Saneh Jaan 13, 116Sanguan Sri 118Saras 145Savoey 75Scandinavian Smorgaas

Buffet 148Seafood Restaurants

(Amphawa) 176Seven Spoons 96Shoshana 83Soi 10 Food Centres 131Somboon Seafood 133Somsong

Phochana 84Somtam Convent 131Somtam Nua 117Soul Food

Mahanakorn 145Soy 84Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin 118Sri Trat 13, 145Steve Café & Cuisine 96Sugar Member

(Kanchanaburi) 186Sunday Jazzy Brunch 148Supanniga

Eating Room 146-7Sushi Tsukiji 131

TTalat Taa Rot Tua

(Phetchaburi) 181Taling Chan Floating

Market 76Taling Pling 132Tawandang German

Brewery 133Teppen 147Thamna 97

Thanon Phadungdao Seafood Stalls 105-6

The Commons 13, 148Thip Samai 82Tonkin-Annam 13, 74Toy 116

WWang Lang Market 74

YYaek Kut Kha Night

Market (Khao Yai) 188Yang Gao Gorn 163-4Yusup 162

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

AA R Sutton & Co

Engineers Siam 149Above 11 151Amorosa 75Aree 164Audi Bar (Ko Samet) 173

BBa Hao 105Badmotel 150Balcony 136Banana Bar on 4 136Beam 150Black Amber

Social Club 151

CCasa Azul 164Cé La Vi 137Ceresia 135Club Insanity 152Co-Co Walk 119Commé 85Craft 137

DDemo 151DJ Station 136Duangthawee Plaza 136

EEl Chiringuito 105

FFake Club The Next Gen

164-5Fatbird 164Foreign Correspondents’

Club of Thailand 119

GG Bangkok 136Glow 150

HHair of the Dog 118Hanakaruta 137Havana Social Club 150-1Hazel’s Ice Cream Parlor

& Fine Drinks 97Hippie de Bar 85Hyde & Seek 118

IIron Fairies 152

JJ Boroski Mixology 150Jham Jun 85

KKu Bar 13, 84

LLava Gold 85Levels 151Long Table 152

MMadame Musur 85Madrid 135Maggie Choo’s 135Mikkeller 149Mixx 119Moon Bar 135, 35

NNamsaah Bottling Trust

135Narz 152Nung-Len 152

OO’glee 164Onyx 163

259IN

DEX D

RIN

KIN

G &

NIG

HT

LIFE

PPark Society 135Phra Nakorn Bar &

Gallery 85Pijiu Bar 105Post Bar 97

QQ&A Bar 149

RRed Sky 118-19River Vibe 107Rolling Bar 85Roof 75, 119Route 66 163

SSalt 164Scratch Dog 152Shades of Retro 151Sing Sing Theater 151Sky Bar 135Sky Train Jazz Club 119Smalls 134SoulBar 107Studio Lam 149Sugar Ray 150

TTaksura 163Talay Bar (Ko Samet) 173Teens of Thailand 105Telephone Pub 136Tep Bar 105The Bank 85The Bar 135The Club 85The Stranger 136The Yard 164Tuba 149

VVesbar 163Vesper 134-5Viva & Aviv 134Vogue Lounge 136

WWalden 150

Waon 149Wine Pub 119Wong’s Place 137WTF 149

3 ENTERTAINMENT

AAd Here the 13th 87

BBamboo Bar 137Bangkok Screening

Room 137Brick Bar 85Brown Sugar 85

CCalypso Bangkok 139

DDiplomat Bar 119

FFriese-Greene Club 152

HHollywood Awards 165House 165

Jjazz happens! 87

LLam Sing 152Lumpinee Boxing

Stadium 165

NNana Entertainment

Plaza 153National Theatre 75

PParagon Cineplex 118Parking Toys 165Parking Toys’ Watt 152Playhouse Magical

Cabaret 165

RRaintree 119Rajadamnern Stadium 97Rock Pub 119

SSala Chalermkrung 107Sala Rim Naam 137Saxophone Pub

& Restaurant 119Siam Niramit 165Soi Cowboy 153Soy Sauce Factory 107

TThe Living Room 152Titanium 152

WWhiteline 137

7 SHOPPING

AAnother Story 153Asiatique 139

BBaiyoke Garment

Center 123

CCentral Chidlom 123Central Embassy 123CentralWorld 122Chiang Heng 139

DDamnoen Saduak

Floating Market (Kanchanaburi) 184

Doi Tung 122Don Wai Market

(Kanchanaburi) 184Duly 153

EElephant Parade 122Emquartier 154, 45Everyday

by Karmakamet 138

FFashion Mall 123Flynow III 122Foodland 146Fortune Town 165

GGin & Milk 123Gourmet Market 146

HHeritage Craft 87House of Chao 138

Iit’s going green 122

JJim Thompson 139July 139

KKarmakamet 122

LLofty Bamboo 87

MMarco Tailor 123MBK Center 121Mowaan 87

NNarai Phand 123Nickermann’s 153Nittaya Thai Curry 87

OObjects of Desire Store

122

PPantip Plaza 123Patpong Night Market

139-40Pinky Tailors 123Platinum Fashion Mall

122

QQuartor 153

RRaja’s Fashions 153Rajawongse 153Ricky’s Fashion House

153River City 139Sights 000

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

260

IND

EX EN

TE

RTA

INM

EN

T

SSiam Center 121Siam Discovery 13,

10, 121Siam Paragon 121Siam Square 121Sop Moei Arts 154

TTaekee Taekon 87Tailor on Ten 153Talat Khlong Ong Ang

106Talat Khlong Thom 106Talat Rot Fai 2 165Tamnan Mingmuang 139Tango 122Terminal 21 154Tha Kha Floating Market

(Kanchanaburi) 184Thai Home Industries 139ThaiCraft Fair 153-4Thann 122Thanon Khao San

Market 87Thanon Mittraphan 106Thanon Santiphap 106Thanon Sukhumvit

Market 155The Selected 122TR Gift Shop Limited 139

VViera by Ragazze 122Villa Market 146

WWarehouse 30 138-9

ZZudRangMa Records 153

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

AAAA 124ABC Amazing Bangkok

Cyclists 155Absolute Yoga 124Amita Thai Cooking Class

75, 12Asia Herb Association 154

BBaan Chao Yoga 89Baan Dalah 154Babylon 136Baipai Thai

Cooking School 166Bangkok Bike Rides 155Bangkok Bold

Cooking Studio 87Banyan Tree Spa 140Blue Elephant Thai

Cooking School 140

CCenter Meditation Wat

Mahadhatu 75Chetawan Traditional

Massage School 76Co van Kessel Bangkok

Tours 140Cooking with Poo

& Friends 155Coran 154

DDivana Massage & Spa

154

EEight Limbs 155

FFairtex Muay Thai 166

GGrasshopper

Adventures 89

HHealth Land 140, 154House of Dhamma 166

IIssaya Cooking Studio 123

JJaroenthong Muay Thai

Gym 13, 87-8

LLavana 154

MMassage Pavilions 76MuayThai Institute 166

OOriental Hotel Thai

Cooking School 141Oriental Spa 140

PPhussapa Thai

Massage School 155Pilates Studio 124

RRakuten 154Ruen-Nuad Massage

Studio 141

SSilom Thai

Cooking School 141Sor Vorapin Gym 89Spa 1930 124

TThann Sanctuary 124

UUnion Language

School 124

VVelo Thailand 89

YYoga Elements Studio 155Yunomori Onsen

& Spa 155

4 SLEEPING

@Hua Lamphong 195-62N Guesthouse

(Phetchaburi) 181

AAmari Airport Hotel 203Amber 199Ao Nuan Bungalows (Ko

Samet) 175Apaché (Ko Samet) 175AriyasomVilla 202Arun Residence 196Atlanta 201Aurum: The River

Place 192

BBaan Dinso 194Baan Ku Pu

(Amphawa) 177Baan Manusarn 195Baan Noppawong 196Baan Sukhumvit 202Ban Sabai Sabai

(Kanchanaburi) 186Ban Thungdaeng 194Bangkok Tree House 204Bangkokians Garden

Home 197Be My Guest Bed &

Breakfast 204Beat Hotel 202Bed Station Hostel 193Bhuthorn 196Bizotel 197Boxpackers Hostel 197

CCacha Hotel 197Café Ice Residence 196Centrepoint 199ChababaanCham Resort

(Amphawa) 177Chakrabongse Villas 192Chao Hostel 193Chern 193Chic Hostel 195

EEugenia 203

FFeung Nakorn Balcony

197Fortville Guesthouse 192FU House Hostel 201Fusion Suites 202

GGlur Bangkok 198

HHansar 197-8Hotel Clover 202Hotel des Artists

(Khao Yai) 188Hotel Indigo 198House by the Pond 199HQ Hostel 198

261IN

DEX S

PO

RT

S &

AC

TIV

ITIE

S

IInn a Day 192

KK Maison 197Khaosan Immjai 192Khao Yai National Park -

Zone 2 (Khao Yai) 188kokotel 13, 199

LLamphu Treehouse 194Lit Bangkok Hotel &

Residence 198Loftel 22 193Loog Choob

Homestay 196Loy La Long 196Lubd 193LUXX 199

MMa Du Zi 203Mandarin Oriental 201Metropolitan by COMO

200Mile Map Hostel 198Millennium Hilton 201Mystic Place 204

NNanda Heritage 194Napa Place 202NapPark Hostel 193Niras Bangkoc 193Novotel Suvarnabhumi

Airport Hotel 203

OOkura Prestige 198Old Capital Bike Inn 194Oldtown 196Oriental Kwai Resort

(Kanchanaburi) 187

PPannee Residence 195Pause Hostel 193Peninsula Hotel 201Phra-Nakorn

Norn-Len 195Ploen Amphawa Resort

(Amphawa) 177Praya Palazzo 194

RReno Hotel 197RetrOasis 202Riva Surya 194Rose Hotel 200Royal Tha Tien Village 192

SS1 Hostel 193, 198S31 202Sabai@Kan

(Kanchanaburi) 186-7Sala Ratanakosin 192Sam Sen Sam Place 195San Khao Yai Guesthouse

(Khao Yai) 188S-Box 202Shanghai Mansion 197Sheraton Grande

Sukhumvit 203Siam Heritage 200Siam@Siam 198Siamaze 204Silom Art Hostel 193Silom One 199Siri Sathorn 199Sleep Box 203Smile Society 198-9Sofitel So 201Sourire 194SSIP Boutique 195Stable Lodge 202Sukhothai Hotel 201Sun Hotel

(Phetchaburi) 181-2Suneta Hostel

Khaosan 192Swan Hotel 200

TThe Cottage 203The Siam 195The Warehouse 194The Yard 203-4Tints of Blue 13, 201Trinity Silom Hotel 200

UU Sukhumvit 202Urban House 200Urbana 199

VViking Holidays Resort

(Ko Samet) 175Villa Phra Sumen 194Vivit Hostel 192

WW Bangkok 201W Home 196Wanderlust 195White Monkey

Guesthouse (Phetch-aburi) 181

YYim Huai Khwang

Hostel 204

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

262

IND

EX SLE

EP

ING

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MTR/MRT station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Bangkok Maps

263©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

MAP

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265

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æ Top Sights (p60) 22 Tonkin-Annam............................................C6 1 Wat Arun ......................................................B6 23 Wang Lang Market..................................... B3 2 Wat Pho........................................................D5

3 Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace................C5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p75) Amorosa ............................................ (see 28) æ Sights (p70) Roof.................................................... (see 33) 4 Amulet Market ............................................B3

5 Lak Meuang .................................................D4 ý Entertainment (p75) 6 Museum of Siam.........................................D6 24 National Theatre.........................................C2 7 National Gallery...........................................D2

8 National Museum........................................C2 Ø Sports & Activities (p75) 9 Royal Barges National Museum ............... A1 25 Center Meditation Wat Mahadhatu.........C3 10 Sanam Luang ..............................................C3 26 Chetawan Traditional Massage 11 Saranrom Royal Garden............................D5 School .......................................................C6 12 Silpakorn University...................................C4 27 Massage Pavilions...................................... D5 13 Silpakorn University Art Centre................C4 National Museum Tours.....................(see 8) 14 Siriraj Medical Museum .............................A2

15 Thammasat University...............................C3 ÿ Sleeping (p192) 16 Wat Phra Kaew............................................C4 28 Arun Residence ..........................................C6 29 Aurum: The River Place.............................C6 ú Eating (p74) 30 Chakrabongse Villas ..................................C6 17 Err .................................................................C6 31 Inn a Day......................................................C6 18 Ming Lee.......................................................C4 32 Royal Tha Tien Village................................C6 19 Navy Club.....................................................B4 33 Sala Ratanakosin........................................C6 20 Pa Aew..........................................................C6

Sala Rattanakosin Eatery & Bar......(see 33) ï Information (p44) 21 Savoey..........................................................B3 Office of the National Museum..........(see 8)

266

BANGLAM

PHU

BANGLAMPHU Map on p268

æ Top Sights (p80) 43 Lava Gold.....................................................D4 1 Golden Mount & Wat Suket...................... H6 44 Madame Musur...........................................C2 2 Wat Suthat................................................... E7 45 Mulligans .....................................................D4 46 Phra Nakorn Bar & Gallery........................ D5 æ Sights (p79) 47 Rolling Bar....................................................F3 3 Ban Baat.......................................................H7 48 The Bank......................................................C3 4 Democracy Monument.............................. F5 49 The Club.......................................................D3 5 Dhevasathan ............................................... E7 50 The Roof Bar ...............................................D4 6 Khaosan Museum.......................................D4

7 King Prajadhipok Museum ........................H5 ý Entertainment (p85) 8 Mahakan Fort ..............................................G5 51 Ad Here the 13th......................................... D2 9 October 14 Memorial..................................E4 52 Brick Bar......................................................D4 10 Phra Sumen Fort & Santi Chai 53 Brown Sugar ...............................................G4 Prakan Park .............................................. C1 54 jazz happens!.............................................. B2 11 Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art 55 Molly Bar......................................................D3 Center........................................................G5

12 Sao Ching-Cha ............................................ E7 þ Shopping (p87) 13 Thanon Bamrung Meuang Religious 56 Heritage Craft ............................................. D7 Shops......................................................... F7 57 Lofty Bamboo .............................................D4 14 Vishnu Shrine .............................................. F7 58 Mowaan ........................................................E7 15 Wat Bowonniwet.........................................E3 59 Nittaya Thai Curry...................................... D3 16 Wat Ratchanatdaram.................................G5 60 Taekee Taekon ...........................................C2 61 Thanon Khao San Market..........................D4 ú Eating (p82)

17 Arawy Vegetarian Food..............................E5 Ø Sports & Activities (p87) 18 Baan Nual.....................................................E2 62 Baan Chao Yoga ......................................... C2 19 Bangkok Poutine.........................................D2 63 Bangkok Bold Cooking Studio..................G4 20 Chote Chitr ..................................................D7 64 Grasshopper Adventures.......................... E4 21 Hemlock.......................................................B2 65 Jaroenthong Muay Thai Gym ................... B2 22 Jay Fai.......................................................... G6 66 Sor Vorapin Gym........................................ C3 23 Karim Roti-Mataba .....................................C2 67 Velo Thailand ...............................................E1 24 Khun Daeng .................................................B2

25 Kimleng ........................................................D4 ÿ Sleeping (p192) 26 Krua Apsorn................................................. F5 68 Baan Dinso .................................................. E5 27 May Kaidee's ...............................................E4 69 Baan Noppawong....................................... E5 28 Nuttaporn ....................................................D7 70 Ban Thungdaeng ........................................ E5 29 Poj Spa Kar ..................................................D7 71 Bhuthorn...................................................... D7 30 Pua-Kee........................................................C2 72 Chern ............................................................F7 31 Rarb ..............................................................C2 73 Fortville Guesthouse.................................. C2 32 Sheepshank.................................................B2 74 Khaosan Immjai...........................................D1 33 Shoshana .....................................................C3 75 Lamphu Treehouse.....................................F3 34 Somsong Phochana ................................... C1 76 Nanda Heritage...........................................H3 35 Soy................................................................B2 77 NapPark Hostel...........................................D3 36 Thip Samai.................................................. G6 78 Niras Bangkoc............................................. G7 79 Old Capital Bike Inn....................................G4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p84) 80 Pannee Residence...................................... F4 37 Babble & Rum .............................................B2 81 Praya Palazzo ..............................................B1 38 Center Khao Sarn .......................................D4 82 Riva Surya ................................................... B2 39 Commé.........................................................C2 83 Sourire .........................................................G5 40 Gecko Bar ....................................................C2 84 Suneta Hostel Khaosan............................. E3 41 Hippie de Bar...............................................C3 85 The Warehouse...........................................D6 Jham Jun............................................ (see 73) 86 Villa Phra Sumen ........................................ F4 42 Ku Bar.......................................................... G4 87 Vivit Hostel ..................................................D6

267

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â Top Sight (p92) Likhit Kai Yang .................................. (see 22) 1 Dusit Palace Park........................................C2 16 Nang Loeng Market....................................C4 17 Seven Spoons.............................................B4 æ Sights (p94) 18 Steve Café & Cuisine ................................. A2 2 Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall.........................C2 19 Thamna........................................................ A3 3 Ananta Samakhom Throne

Hall .............................................................C2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p97) 4 Ancient Cloth Museum ..............................C2 20 Hazel's Ice Cream Parlor & Fine 5 Chitlada Palace ...........................................D2 Drinks........................................................C4 6 Dusit Zoo......................................................C2 21 Post Bar....................................................... A3 7 National Library ..........................................B2

8 Rama V Memorial .......................................C2 ý Entertainment (p97) 9 Royal Thai Elephant Museum ...................C2 22 Rajadamnern Stadium...............................B4 10 Vimanmek Teak Mansion ..........................C2

11 Wat Benchamabophit ................................C3 ÿ Sleeping (p195) 23 Baan Manusarn .......................................... B2 ú Eating (p96) 24 Loog Choob Homestay..............................C4 12 In Love..........................................................A2 25 Phra-Nakorn Norn-Len..............................B3 13 Kaloang Home Kitchen ..............................A2 26 Sam Sen Sam Place................................... A3 14 Khinlom Chom Sa-Phan ............................A3 27 SSIP Boutique............................................. B2 15 Krua Apsorn.................................................B2 28 The Siam.......................................................B1

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â Top Sight (p112) ý Entertainment (p119) 1 Suan Pakkad Palace Museum...................B3 9 Raintree .......................................................C3 10 Saxophone Pub & Restaurant.................. B2 æ Sights (p112)

2 Baiyoke Tower II..........................................C4 þ Shopping (p121) 3 Bangkok Doll Factory & Museum.............D3 11 Fashion Mall .................................................B1 4 Victory Monument...................................... B1

Ø Sports & Activities (p123) ú Eating (p115) 12 AAA............................................................... A3 5 Pathé ............................................................C2

6 Toy ................................................................ B1 ÿ Sleeping (p197) 13 Bangkokians Garden Home......................C3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p118) 14 Bed Station Hostel ..................................... A4 7 Sky Train Jazz Club ....................................B2 15 Bizotel ..........................................................C3 8 Wine Pub......................................................B3 16 Boxpackers Hostel..................................... B4 17 K Maison......................................................C3

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Ú Top Sight (p100) 7 Phra Buddha Maha 14 Thanon Santiphap .........F2 22 Khun Yah Cuisine..........G3 32 El Chiringuito .................G3 ÿ Sleeping (p195) 1 Wat Traimit (Golden Suwanna 15 Wat Mangkon 23 Mangkorn Khăo............. E3 33 Pijiu Bar ..........................G3 41 @Hua Lamphong ..........G4 Buddha) .......................F3 Patimakorn Kamalawat .................. E2 24 Nai Mong Hoi Thod ........F2 34 River Vibe....................... F4 42 Asadang ..........................B1 Exhibition .....................F3 16 Yaowarat Chinatown 25 Nay Hong ........................ F1 35 Teens of Thailand..........G3 43 Chic Hostel.....................G3 æ Sights (p101) 8 Sampeng Lane .............. D2 Heritage Center..........G3 26 Nay Lék Ûan................... E3 36 Tep Bar...........................G3 44 Feung Nakorn 2 Church of Santa Cruz... B3 9 Talat Khlong Ong 27 Old Siam Plaza ...............C1 Balcony.........................C1 3 Holy Rosary Church ......F5 Ang................................D1 ú Eating (p104) 28 Royal India ..................... D2 ý Entertainment (p107) 45 Loftel 22 .........................G5 4 Hualamphong Train 10 Talat Khlong 17 80/20 ............................. G5 29 Samsara......................... F4 37 Sala Chalermkrung........C1 46 Loy La Long.................... F4 Station......................... G3 Thom ........................... E2 18 Fou de Joie.....................G4 30 Thanon Phadungdao 38 SoulBar...........................G5 47 Oldtown ..........................G5 5 Pak Khlong Talat........... B2 11 Talat Mai ........................ E2 19 Gŏo·ay đĕe·o kôo·a Seafood Stalls .............F3 39 Soy Sauce Factory........G5 48 Shanghai Mansion ........ F3 6 Phahurat ........................ C2 12 Talat Noi..........................F4 gài................................. E3 49 Wanderlust.....................G3 13 Thanon 20 Hoon Kuang ................... E3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p107) þ Shopping (p103)

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â Top Sight (p110) ý Entertainment (p119) 1 Jim Thompson House ................................A2 35 Diplomat Bar...............................................G6 36 Lido............................................................... C3 æ Sights (p112) Paragon Cineplex ............................. (see 50) 2 100 Tonson Gallery.................................... G6 37 Rock Pub ......................................................B1 3 Aood Bankrua Thai Silk..............................A2 38 Scala............................................................. B3 4 Baan Khrua ..................................................A2

5 Bangkok Art & Culture Centre ..................B3 þ Shopping (p121) 6 Chulalongkorn University ..........................B6 39 Baiyoke Garment Center............................ E1 7 Erawan Shrine .............................................E4 40 Central Chidlom..........................................G4 8 Jamjuree Art Gallery ..................................A5 41 CentralWorld............................................... E3 9 Jim Thompson Art Center.........................A2 Doi Tung ............................................ (see 49) 10 Lingam Shrine .............................................G2 Elephant Parade ............................... (see 49) 11 Madame Tussauds .....................................B3 Flynow III............................................ (see 48) 12 Phamai Baan Krua ......................................A2 Gin & Milk........................................... (see 49) 13 Sea Life Ocean World.................................C3 it's going green ....................................(see 5) 14 Tang Contemporary Art.............................E4 Karmakamet ......................................(see 41) 15 Wat Pathum.................................................D3 42 Marco Tailor................................................C4 16 YELO House.................................................B2 43 MBK Center................................................. B3 44 Narai Phand ................................................ E3 ú Eating (p115) Objects of Desire Store ................... (see 49) 17 Coca Suki .....................................................C4 45 Pantip Plaza .................................................D1 Din Tai Fung....................................... (see 41) 46 Pinky Tailors................................................H4 18 Eathai........................................................... G4 47 Platinum Fashion Mall ............................... E2 Erawan Tea Room.............................(see 22) 48 Siam Center ................................................ C3 Food Loft............................................(see 40) 49 Siam Discovery........................................... B3 Food Republic ...................................(see 48) 50 Siam Paragon ............................................. C3 19 FoodPark......................................................E3 51 Siam Square................................................ C3 20 Gaa................................................................ F6 Tango ................................................. (see 48) 21 Gaggan ......................................................... F6 Thann ..................................................(see 41) 22 Ginza Sushi-Ichi ..........................................E4 The Selected ..................................... (see 49) Gourmet Paradise ............................(see 50) Viera by Ragazze...............................(see 41) 23 Koko..............................................................B3

24 La Monita .................................................... H4 Ø Sports & Activities (p123) 25 MBK Food Island.........................................B4 52 Absolute Yoga............................................. F4 Nuer Koo ............................................(see 50) Issaya Cooking Studio ......................(see 18) 26 Saneh Jaan ..................................................G7 KidZania............................................. (see 50) 27 Sanguan Sri ................................................ H4 53 Pilates Studio..............................................H4 28 Somtam Nua ...............................................C4 54 Spa 1930...................................................... G5 29 Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin ....................................C2 Thann Sanctuary...............................(see 41) Thompson Bar & Restaurant .............(see 1) 55 Union Language School..............................B1

û Drinking & Nightlife (p118) ÿ Sleeping (p197) 30 Co-Co Walk.................................................. B1 56 Chao Hostel................................................. A3 31 Foreign Correspondents' Club of 57 Hansar.......................................................... E5 Thailand .................................................... F4 58 Hotel Indigo.................................................H5 32 Hair of the Dog ........................................... H4 59 Lit Bangkok Hotel & Residence................ B2 33 Hyde & Seek ............................................... H4 60 Lub*d ........................................................... A3 34 Mixx ..............................................................E4 61 Okura Prestige............................................H4 Red Sky .............................................. (see 41) 62 Reno Hotel................................................... A3 Roof ....................................................(see 63) 63 Siam@Siam................................................. A3

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â Top Sight (p144) 29 Nirai-Kanai...................................................G4 1 Siam Society & Kamthieng 30 Peppina........................................................D3 House ........................................................C3 Pier 21 ................................................ (see 84) Pizza Romana Pala........................... (see 84) æ Sights (p144) 31 Prai Raya...................................................... B3 2 Benjakiti Park ..............................................B5 32 Quince.......................................................... E5 3 Chuvit Garden .............................................B3 33 Rang Mahal..................................................C4 4 Khlong Toey Market ...................................B7 34 Saras ............................................................C4 5 Stanley MiniVenture...................................H7 Scandinavian Smorgaas 6 Subhashok The Arts Centre......................E2 Buffet ............................................. (see 118) 35 Soul Food Mahanakorn .............................G6 ú Eating (p145) 36 Sri Trat .........................................................D3 7 Appia.............................................................D3 Sunday Jazzy Brunch ..................... (see 117) 8 Bei Otto ........................................................C4 37 Supanniga Eating Room............................G5 9 Bharani.........................................................C3 38 Teppen.........................................................G6 10 Bo.lan............................................................F6 39 The Commons ............................................G3 11 Boon Tong Kiat Singapore 40 Villa Market ................................................. F4 Chicken Rice............................................ G4 41 Villa Market ................................................. B2 12 Cabbages & Condoms ...............................B3 42 Villa Market .................................................D4 13 Charcoal Tandoor Grill & 43 Villa Market .................................................G4 Mixology.................................................... B1

14 Daniel Thaiger .............................................B2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p149) 15 Foodland ......................................................A2 44 A R Sutton & Co Engineers Siam .............G6 16 Fuji Super.....................................................D4 Above 11..............................................(see 13) 17 Game Over.................................................. H2 45 Badmotel.....................................................G4 18 Gateway Ekamai .........................................H7 46 Beam............................................................G4 19 Ginzado ........................................................G5 47 Beer Belly ....................................................G4 20 Gokfayuen................................................... G4 48 Black Amber Social Club...........................G5 21 Gourmet Market .........................................D5 49 Club Insanity ................................................B1 22 Imoya............................................................D5 50 Demo............................................................H4 23 Ippudo ..........................................................D5 51 Glow .............................................................C3 24 Jidori Cuisine Ken....................................... E5 52 Havana Social Club .....................................B1 Klang Soi Restaurant........................(see 82) 53 Iron Fairies...................................................G4 25 Little Beast.................................................. G4 54 J Boroski Mixology..................................... G5 26 Marriott Café...............................................A2 55 Levels ...........................................................B2 27 Myeong Ga...................................................B3 56 Long Table...................................................C4 28 Nasir Al-Masri..............................................A2 57 Mikkeller ......................................................H5

284

SUKHUM

VIT 58 Narz ..............................................................D3 Ø Sports & Activities (p155) 59 Nung-Len .................................................... H4 87 ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclists............... E5 60 Q&A Bar ....................................................... C1 88 Asia Herb Association................................D3 61 Scratch Dog.................................................C4 89 Asia Herb Association................................G6 62 Shades of Retro ......................................... H3 90 Baan Dalah .................................................. B3 63 Sing Sing Theater ....................................... E5 91 Bicycle Hire ................................................. B5 64 Studio Lam .................................................. F5 92 Coran ...........................................................H5 65 Sugar Ray.................................................... H3 93 Divana Massage & Spa..............................C3 66 Taproom ......................................................E5 94 Eight Limbs ................................................. D5 67 Tuba............................................................. H3 95 Fun-arium.....................................................E7 68 Walden .........................................................D4 96 Health Land.................................................C2 69 Waon.............................................................E5 97 Health Land.................................................H5 70 WTF............................................................... F5 98 Lavana..........................................................B3 99 Phussapa Thai Massage School............... E5 ý Entertainment (p152) 100 Rakuten........................................................D3 71 Apoteka........................................................B2 101 Yoga Elements Studio ...............................B3 72 Friese-Greene Club.....................................D5 102 Yunomori Onsen & Spa............................. D7 73 Nana Entertainment Plaza ........................A2

74 Soi Cowboy..................................................C3 ÿ Sleeping (p201) The Living Room ..............................(see 117) 103 AriyasomVilla...............................................A1 75 Titanium.......................................................C4 104 Atlanta ......................................................... A3 105 Baan Sukhumvit .........................................C4 þ Shopping (p153) 106 Eugenia ........................................................D3 Another Story.................................... (see 77) 107 FU House Hostel.........................................B4 76 Duly...............................................................F4 108 Fusion Suites ..............................................C3 77 Emquartier...................................................D4 109 Hotel Clover ................................................C4 Nickermann's ....................................(see 80) 110 House by the Pond..................................... C5 78 Quartor.........................................................D4 111 Ma Du Zi.......................................................C4 79 Raja's Fashions ...........................................B3 112 Napa Place .................................................. F6 80 Rajawongse .................................................A2 113 Pause Hostel............................................... E6 81 Ricky's Fashion House...............................A2 114 RetrOasis.....................................................C4 82 Sop Moei Arts..............................................F4 115 S31................................................................D4 83 Tailor on Ten................................................B4 116 S-Box............................................................D4 84 Terminal 21 ..................................................C3 117 Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit.................... B3 85 ThaiCraft Fair ..............................................C3 118 Stable Lodge............................................... B3 86 Thanon Sukhumvit Market........................B2 119 Tints of Blue ................................................C3 ZudRangMa Records........................(see 70) 120 U Sukhumvit.................................................B1

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3 Numthong Gallery ......................................B4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p164) 4 Or Tor Kor Market.......................................C2 13 Aree ..............................................................B4 14 O'glee ........................................................... B5 ú Eating (p162) The Yard ............................................. (see 17) 5 Baan Pueng Chom......................................C4 15 Viva's.............................................................C1 6 Casa Azul .....................................................B4

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ú Eating (p163) 7 House...........................................................C5 1 Anotai ...........................................................A4 8 Parking Toys' Watt..................................... D5 9 Siam Niramit ............................................... B2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p163)

2 Onyx..............................................................B5 þ Shopping (p165) 3 Route 66.......................................................B5 10 Fortune Town.............................................. A4 4 Taksura ........................................................B5 11 Talat Rot Fai 2............................................. A3 5 Vesbar ..........................................................B5

ÿ Sleeping (p203) ý Entertainment (p165) 12 Be My Guest Bed & Breakfast.................. A2 6 Hollywood Awards......................................A3 13 Yim Huai Khwang Hostel............................B1

287

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415313th edition – Jul 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 081 9© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Our WritersAustin BushBangkok, Amphawa Austin Bush came to Thailand in 1999 as part of a lan-guage study programme hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led Austin to Bangkok. City life, em-ployment and spicy food have managed to keep him there ever since. These days, Austin works as a writer and photographer, and in addition to having contributed to numerous books, magazines and websites, has contributed

text and photos to more than 20 Lonely Planet titles including Bangkok; The Food Book; Food Lover’s Guide to the World; Laos; Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei; Myanmar (Burma); Pocket Bangkok; Thailand; Thailand’s Islands & Beaches; Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thai-land; and The World’s Best Street Food.

Tim BewerPhetchaburi, Khao Yai After briefly holding fort behind a desk as a legislative as-sistant, Tim decided he didn’t have the ego to succeed in the political world (or the stomach to work around those who did). He quit his job at the capitol to backpack around West Africa, during which time he pondered what to do next. His answer was to write a travel guide to parks, forests and wildlife areas of the gorgeous state of Wisconsin. He’s been a freelance travel writer and photographer ever since.

Anita IsalskaAyuthaya Historical Park, Kanchanaburi Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of places in between. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London of-fice – Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guest-house with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Andy SymingtonKo Samet Andy has written or worked on more than a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and oper-ates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Originally from Australia, Andy moved to

northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’