MEASUREMENTS AND DRAFTING SLOPER

*Make your life easy and download the FRACTION PLUS application*

Mark with chalk where you take these measurements.

WAIST: ______

HIPS: ______ ÷ 4 = ______

WAIST TO HIP: ______

WAIST TO LENGTH: ______

DRAFTING FRONT

1. Measure out length and mark A to B

2. Mark center front fold

3. From “A” Draw a horizontal line using your 1/4 hip measurement. Mark as “C”

4. Measure down your waist to hip measurement and mark. Draw a horizontal line using your 1/4 hip measurement.

5. From “B” Draw a horizontal line using your 1/4 hip measurement

6. Close Rectangle

Note: Front darts may change after the fitting because our bodies are shaped differently. Some may require a shorter or wider dart. To begin we will use standard darts and talk about moving them or adjusting in the muslin fitting section.

FRONT DART

1. Measure in 4” from CF and Mark

2. Measure down 3.5” and make a line

3. Measure out 1/2” on each side of line at the top (this creates a 1” dart)

4. Create dart lines

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Before we can mark our 1/4” waist measurement we need to account for the amount we are taking in with our darts so we have to do a little math.

WAIST MEASUREMENT

WAIST + 1” (for front dart) + 2” (for the back darts) = ______ ÷ 4 = ______

Example: 29.5 (my waist) + 1” (for my waist) + 2” (for my back darts) = 32.5 ÷ 4 = 8 1/8

MARK WAIST: Now that we have found our 1/4 waist measurement we can mark it.

1. Measure out your 1/4 waist measurement on line A towards line C and mark.

2. Measure up at the mark 1/2” and mark

3. Using your french curve create a smooth curve from the new waist mark to line A

4. Using your french curve join new waist mark to hip at side seam

5. Pinch dart legs toward CF (center front) trace with wheel and mark

DRAFTING BACK

1. Measure out length and mark A to B

2. Mark center back

3. From “A” Draw a horizontal line using your 1/4 hip measurement. Mark as “C”

4. Measure down your waist to hip measurement and mark. Draw a horizontal line using your 1/4 hip measurement.

5. From “B” Draw a horizontal line using your 1/4 hip measurement

6. Close Rectangle

7. At center back measure down 6” and make a mark (this is the zipper stop line)

BACK DARTS

1. Measure in 2 3/4” from CB (center back) and Mark

2. Measure down 5.5” and make a line

3. Measure out 1/2” on either side of line

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4. Create dart lines same as front

5. Measure out 1 1/4” and create a new mark

6. Measure out 1/2” from that line and mark then again another 1/2” and mark

7. Measure down 3.5” from center mark and create dart legs

MARK WAIST: Now that we have found our 1/4 waist measurement we can mark it.

1. Measure out your 1/4 waist measurement on line A towards line C and mark.

2. Measure up at the mark 1/2” and mark

3. Using your french curve create a smooth curve from the new waist mark to line A

4. Using your french curve join new waist mark to hip at side seam

5. Pinch dart legs toward CB (center back) trace with wheel and mark

COPY SLOPER TO ADD EASE AND SA

1. Mark out 1/8” at waist (this gives you 1/2” total ease at the waist)

2. Mark 3/8” at hip line and down the side seam (this will give you 1.5” total ease)

3. Grade lines from waist to hip re-draw side seam

Optional: Peg your skirt at the knee by measuring in 1 to 2”

4. For front sloper add 5/8” SA to side seam and waist

5. Add 2” SA to hem

6. For center back add 5/8” SA to side seam, center back and waist

7. Add 2” SA to hem

WAISTBAND

Make a rectangle that measures waist plus 1.5” and is 1” wide.

Add 5/8” SA (seam allowance) all the way around

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*Mark all patterns

Cut paper pattern out of muslin, transfer all darts and markings.

TEST FIT: Try on your skirt wrong side out. If you plan to put on shape wear put it on during the test fitting. Pin out the zipper (you may need help)

If it is big on the hips or waist pin out the amount needed. If it is too snug, let out the 5/*” seam allowance in the area that needs it.

Check dart placement and length, make adjustments as needed.

1. Waist fit?

2. Hips Fit?

3. Length Ok?

4. Darts In Place?

MARK DIRECTLY ON YOUR MUSLIN

FITTING REFERENCE: This book is AMAZING and I refer to it even now for myself. It is worth the investment and will certainly help you understand your body and how fitting relates to shapes.

BOOK LINK: http://astore.amazon.com/mimigoodpres-20/detail/0935278656

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