Mayan cuisine in Guatemala

8/13/2019 Mayan cuisine in Guatemala

1/18

FAEToTGUE?ahdsunmijWMDADUATEMALfNANDMVANCODKBODK

COPELANDMARKS

y-

M. Evans and Company Inc. New York


2/18

108 FALSE TONGUE?AND SUNDAY BREADPOLLO DESHUESADO RELLENOSTUFFED BQNELESS CHICKENGUATEMALA Dona Maria Isaura taught me how to bone and stuff a chicken in thesmall, agricultural town of Taxisco in the Department of SantaRosa. Her working class comedor did not serve this, since it was tooelegant for everyday fare. Alsp, since she had nt) ovpn and everythingin this hot town was usually cooked-over outdoor wood fires onbrick and cement stoves, the chicken was roasted at the bakery downthe street.1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon white or cider vinegar3 teaspoons prepared mustard1 chicken, S V a poxmds, boned whole (see Note)y 4 cup fme-chopped onion2 garlic cloves, chopped fineV 4 teaspoon achiote2 tablespoons chopped ripe tomatoV 2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 bay leaves2 tablespoons capersV 2 teaspoon thymetablespoon com oilV2 pound ground beefV 2 cup carrot cubes, cooked for 2 minutesV 2 tup green peas, Cked for 2 minutesV 2 cup shced green,snap beans, cooked for 2 minutes1 large potato,, cooked whole and cut into 'A-inch cubes1 scalhon, gren leaves only

1. Mix 1 teaspoon salt, the vinegar and mustard together and rubthis into the interior skin and meal; of the chicken. Refrigerate for 1hour.


3/18

CHICKEN, TURKEY AND DUCK 1092. Make the stuffing: Fry the onion, garljc, achiote, tomato, blackpepper, 1 bay leaf, capers and V 4 teaspoon thyme in the oil for 2minutes. Add the ground beef, carrot cubes, peas, green beans andpotato; stir-fry for 3 minutes. Cool the mixture. Remove the bayleaf3. Fill the skin, legs and wings with the mixture and sew up thebird. Repair any torn skin at this time. Sprinkle the outer ski withV 4 teaspoon thyme and 1 bay leaf, and ty 'the scalUon leaves over thetop of the chicken. 4. Coat a roasting pan with oil and roast the chicken in a 400F.oven for 1 hour, or until brown and crisp.SERVES 4Note To Bone a Raw Chicken) Start with the back and cut theskin fom the tail to the neck, removing all the meat and skin fromthe bone in a cutting, pushing motion.Cut the thigh bone from the body and push the meat down tothe leg. Cut off the .thigh bone. Cut, the leg skin V 2 inch from thebottom. Push all the thigh meat down and off, pull out the leg bone,and remove it. ,Next take the wing, cut through the bone at the shoulder andpush down?the meat and skin of the first part of the wing, Removethe bone. Continue with the second part of the wing, push down tothe end, and remove the 2thin bones. The wing tip should be cut offand discarded.Now attack thq breast by cutting it from the body on bothsides, removing all the, meat with the skin. Cut throu^ the tail,which should remain attached to the complete skin to give thestuffed chicken shape. The chicken is now boned.


4/18

278 FALSE TONGUES-AND SUNDAY BREAD

CHILES RELLENOSSTUFFED PEPPERS

GUATEMALA1 pound boneless pork or beef chuck4 cups waterV a teaspoon salt, or to tasteiVa cups^sliced carrotsIV2 cups sliced green snap bans'V 2 cup green,^eas, fresh or frozen2. ablespoons corn oil, plus, 'A ciip or moreV 2 cup chopped onionV a cup chopped tomatoV 2 teaspoon thyme2 bay leaves


5/18

VEGETABLES, SALADS AND PICKLES 2793 tablespoons cider or white vinegar24 small sweet peppersFlour4 lai separated1. Cook the meat in 3 cups water with die salt for IV2 hours, oruntil soft. Remove the meat and chop it coarse in a food processor.2. Cook the carrots, green beans and peas together in 1cup of waterfor 5 minutes. Drain. Chop the carrots and green beans (the peasremain whole), and add them to the meat.3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet over moderate heat ,and fty theonion, tomato, thyme and bay leaves for 3 minutes. Add this to them t and vegetables. Add the vinegar and mix well. Remove anddiscard the bay leaves^4. Prepare the sweet peppers by broiling them for 2 or 3 minutesunt lightly charred. Wrap* them quickly in a towel and let themstand for 30 minutes to soften the skins. Peel the skins as much aspossible, open the peppers on one side, and remove th seeds.5. Stufif the peppers firmly with about 2 tablespoons of the meatstuffing each and sprinkle them on both sides with flour. If thepepper does not'completely tsover the stufFmg it will not matter sincethe' floiir and later the e will seal everything together.6. Beat the whites of thee ntil stiff and dry. Add the yolks andmix well.7. Heat the remaining oil in a skillei over medium heat. Very carefully dip the peppers into the e mixture and brown them in the oilon each side for about 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

^ 8. Serve warm or at room temperature with a Chirmol (SimpleTomato Sauce, see Index).SERVES 8 TO 10Note: The reason for removing the skin, as recounted to me by aGuatemalan home cook, is because the egg batter will not stick tothe glossy skin of the pepper. Removii^ the skin by charring it, andthen steaming in a towel, partially tenderizes the flesh of the peppersas well as preparing the surface for the batter.


6/18

284 F A L S E TQNGUES AND SUNDAY BREADPLTANOSPLANTAINS

GUATEMALAThe fact that there are the four niethods, plus variations, of preparing ripe and green plantains, which can be-served with any type ofGuatemalan, Indian, Indonesian and Mexican foods, is an indicationof the versatility of this fruit/vegetable. I have served all four together during a vegetarian dinner without a hint of duplication.1. Boiled:1 ripe plantain, with a yellow and black skin2 cups waterPinch of salt.2 ' teaspoons butterCut the plantain into 4 equal parts, including the skin. Boil in verylightly salte4 water over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, oruntil soft. To serve, peel, disard.the skin, and serve as a v^table,with melted butter.2. Mashed:Prepare the plantain as for boiling but mash in a processor withbutter and a teaspoon or two of honey.3. Pan-fried:1 ripe plantain, with a yellow and black skin2 tatspobns corn oilPeel the plantain. Cut it into Vz-inch-thick diagonal slices about 3inches long. Heat the oil in ,a skillet and over moderate heat fiy theslices for several minutes on each side until golden brown. Drainbriefly on paper towels.


7/18

VEGETABLES, SALADS AN PICKLES 2854. Chips, deep-fried:1green plantain' /2 cup com oil

SiPeel the green plantain by pulling off the firm skin in sections. Cutthe plantain horizntally into very thin shces in a processor or witha razor-sharp knife. Heat the oil in a wok or skillet and over moderate heat fry the slices until crisp. Drain them briefly on papertowels and sprinkle them with salt if you desire. Serve them as anappetizer or with meat, poultry or fish dishes.At country fairs or in the baskets of street vendors in Guatemala, onesees the plantains cut into long thin vertical shces with a hand-heldsheer.This is a bit difficult to manage, but it is a traditional method.TAJALAS VERDES FRITASCRISP-FRIED PLANTAIN STRIPS

NICARAGUA1green plantain, peeledVi teaspoon salt1 cup com oil for deep-frying1. Cut the plantain lengthwise into long, strips (tongues). Sprinklethem, hghtly with salt.2. Heat the oil in a skillet or wok over moderate heat. Drop in 3or4 plantain strips at a time. Fry them until golden crisp, remove witha slotted spoon, and drain the strips on paper towels.3. Serve at room temperature as an appetizer with drinks.Note: The plantan an also be cpt horizontally into thin sHces andfried in the hot oil.Small hand sHcers are found in the central markets. They haveone blade set diagonally into a firm wood frame. The plantains aresHced on this into long, thin strips. A most popular snack, sold for 10cents a bag at country fairs and fiestas.


8/18


9/18

PUREVEGETABLES,.SALADS AND. PICKLS 287

IFRI PLANTAIN M A S H

LIVINGSTON, GUATEMALAHana is the wood mortar dp^tle used by the Caribbean people topoimd various vegetables or roots into a pure or


10/18

288 F A L S E TONGUES A N E ) SUNDAY BREADPLTANOS CON SALSAGREEN PLANTAIN WITH SAUCELIVINGSTON GU TEM LIn Livingston- these firm chewy sUces are eaten as one would eat avegetable, with any mat or fish dish.'A cup com oil1 large green plantain, peeled and cut into 'A-inch-thick slicesV 4 cup chopped onionV 2 cup chopped tomato2 teaspoons cilantroV 2 teaspoon saltV 4 teaspoon fireshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon white or cider vinegar'A teaspoon chopped firesh hot chile, or dried hot red chile flakes1. Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the plantain slices over moderateheat until Hght brown but not crisp. Remove them fi:om the oil.2. Remove all but 1 easpoon oil in the skillet and 67 the onion for1 minute. Add the tomato, cilantro, salt, black pepper, vinegar andchile. Simmer the mixture over moderate heat for 3 minutes.3. Pouf the sauce over the plantain sHces. Serve warm.SERVES 4


11/18

348 F A L S E TONGUES AND SUNDAY BREADPLTANOS AL HORNOBAKED PLANTAINSGUATEMALA CITYThroughout Central America the plantain is eaten daily in manyformsas a vegetable or in a dessert, baked, fried or boiled, anddressed with a sweet spicy sauce. Dessert variations are endless. Therecipes given here all have slight variations in flavorings or cookingtechnique.2 tablespoons sugar1 teaspoon ground cinnamon2 ripe plantains, with black skins2 tablespoons butter1. Mix the sugar and cinnamon together.2. Peel the plantains and split them open lengthwise'but do not cutcompletely through. Sprinkle them inside and out with the sugarmixture. Cut dabs of butter into the shts.3. Coat a baking dish with butter and add the plantains. Bake in-a350F. oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until soft and brown. Servewarm with fresh cream and honey.SERVES 4 TO 6


12/18

D ES S ERTS , SWEETS AND'DRINKS 349PLTANOS ENMIELHONEYED PLANTAINS

EL SALVADORMost of the plantain desserts me from Guatemala City, but thisone is the El Salvadoran version and is traditionally served with acom drink, Chilate d&Maz (see Index).3 plantains, medium ripe with some black skin2 cups water

1 2 cups dark brown sugar1cinnamon stidc, 3 inches, broken up 1. Peel the plantains and, cut into Vz-inch-thick sHces.2. Simmer the water, sugar and cinnamon .over moderate to lowheat until the sugar has dissolved. Add the plantain shces and con-tmue to simmer for about 30 minutes. The syrup will thicken. Theplantain will absorb some of the syrap and be cooked through.Should the syrup become too thick and the water evaporate, addV a cup more water.3. Serve warm, for dessert, afternoon coffee hour or any other timeas a snack.SERVES 6


13/18

350 FALSE TONGUES AND SUNDAY BREADPLTANOS EN GLORIAGLORIOUS PLANTAINS IN SYRUP

GUATEMALA CITY2 cups waterV z cup sugar1 cinnamon stick, 3 inches, broken mto halves4 ripe plantains with black skins, cut into Va-mch-tbck diagonal

slicesV 4 cup com oil1. Simmer the water, sugar and cinnamon stick together over moderate heat for 5 minutes.2. Meanwhile, fry tlie plantain shces in oil in a skillet over moderateheat, unt brown on both sides. Drain the shces bnefly on papertowds.3. Add the slices to the syrup. Simmer slowly for 10 mmutes more.Setve warm.SERVES 6 TO 8

PPT PNTTOS PE PLTANOSLITTLE STUFFED PLANTAINS

GUATEMALAThe rellenitos are served as snacb with tea or coffee or as ad rtThey may-be refrigerated and may b^ hghtly heat^ up the o owing day. I haveserved them with success vdth any Guatem^an meator poultry dish. Th reserved liquid firom the plantan isd s aflavored tea with the plantain, providing a mild drink that is reputed to be strengthening as weU as refreshing.


14/18

DESSERTS, SWEETS AND DRINKS 3512 cups dried black beans ^9 cups water1 gariic clove, chopped1small onion, chopped6 tablespoons, corn oil. *4, tablespoons sugarVi teaspoon ground cinnamon4 plantains, with partially black skin, half ripe and firm3 tablespoons flour1. Soak the dried beans in 6 alps of the* water overnight.2. The next day cook the beans in thesoaking water with garlic andonion until soft.3. Process the bean mixture until smooth. Fry in 2 tablespoons ofthe oil in a skillet over moderate heat unt beans are smooth anddry.4. Add 1 tablespoon of the sugar and the cinnamon..Stir-fry for 2minutes, imtil everything is well mixed. Set as ide.5. Cut each plantain into 4 equal pieces and peel it.& Cook the plantains in remaining 3 cups-water and, 3 tablespoonssugar over moderate heat unt half soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Do notovercook. Drain the plantain and mash into a smooth pairee.,7^ Tke 1 heaping tablespoon of the mashed plantain; with well-floured palms, flatten it out like a tortilla' to 3 inches in' diameter.8. Place 1 heaping teaspoon of the bean pure on one end of theflattened plantain and roU it over to the other side, to make a-roundsausage shape. Seal any openings with an additional dab of plantain.Dust the flitter widi flour.9. Heat remaining 4 tablespoons o in a sklet.Over moderate heatbrown each fritter all around for about 3 minutes. Drain well onpaper towels. Serve warm or at room temperature.MAKES 18 fritt rs


15/18

352 FALSE TONGUES AND SUNDAY BREADPLTANOS AL HORNO CONNARANJABAKED PLANTAINS IN OPj\NGESAUCE

GUATEMALAThe plantain is a fruit that may be served with meat es as avegetable or as a dessert with whipped cream or creme Jraiche.2 tablespoons butter or margarine3 very ripe plantains, with black skinsV 4 cup fresh orange juice1 teaspoon grated orange rind1. Coat a bking dish with 2 teaspoons butter. Preheat the oven to375F.2. Peel the plantains and discard the skins. Make 3-inch-long diagonal slashes every V a inch the length of the plantains, but do not cutall the way through the fruit. About inch should remain uncut tokeep the plantain in one piece.3. Put the plantains in the baking dish and dot them with thebalance of the butter. Pour the orange juice over all and spritewith the orange rind. Bake for 2 0 to 25 mmutes, basting occ^on-ally.SERVES 6


16/18

DESSERTS, SWEETSAND DUNKS 353PLTANOS EN GLORIABAKED PLANTAINS IN CREAM

HONDURASPlantains are produced in huge quantities in Hondur|s and,are certainly ofte of the, most popdar and useful foods,to be found. Th^recipe is oneof the many ways plantain can be prepared. It is a,rich,creamy, outstanding dessert.4 ripe plantains, with black skinsVi cup com oil1cup heavy cream1cup dark brown sugar1 teaspoon grotmd cinnamon1. Peel the plantains and cut them lengthwise,into halves. Cut eachhalf crosswise into 3 sUces.2. Heat the oil in a skillet over moderate heat. Lightly brown theslices of plantain on each side for about 3.minutes.3. Put half of the plantains in a baling dish in one layer. Coicer theshces with half of the cream; sprinkle with half of the sugar and thecinnamon. Complete the second layer the same way.4 Bake in a 350.E. oven for 2 0 minutes. Serve warm. SERVES i

* if


17/18

354 F A L S E TONGUES AND SUNDAY BREADPLTANOS EN MOLEPLANTAINS IN CHOCOLATE SAUCE

GUATEMALA CITY'A cup com oil6 ripe plantains,'peeled and ait into Va-inch-thick diagonal slicesV a cup sesame seeds2 tablespoons squash seeds (pepitoria)4 or 5 small ripe tomatoes, or 2 cups canned (drained)'A cup tomatillos (mil tomates)1 chile pasa, seeds and stem removed, soaked in Vi aip Virater for30 minutes1ounce bitter chocolate, melted in 1 cup waterV 2 cup sugarV 2 teaspoon ground cinnamon2 to 3 tablespons toasted bread cmmbs1.' Heat the oil in a skillet over moderate heat and fry the plantainslices until hght brown, about 5 minutes. Drain well and set aside.2. In a dry skillet over low heat, toast the sesame seedsj' squash seeds,tomatoes and tomatillos for 5 minutes or more, until- Ughtlybrowned.3. Prepare a smooth sauce in a food processor with the chile and itssoaking hquid, the sesame and squash seeds, tomatoes and tomatillos.Force the sauce through a metal strainer and discard the remains.4. Fry the sauce recado) in askillet for 5 minutes.Add the chocolateand water, sugar and cinnamon. Cook over moderate heat for 5minutes. Add the bread crumbs to thicken the sauce.5. Add the plantain shces and continue to simmer sloy/ly for 15minutes more. A tliick, rich sauce will coat the plantain slices. Servewarm or at room temperature.SERVES 8Note: This mole is served all over Guatemala but especially duringHoly Week Semana Santa).


18/18

DESSERTS, SUTBETS AND DRINKS 355

TORTA DE PLTANOPLANTAN TORTE

GUATEMALA ITY1lai ripe plantain, eut mto 4 pieces2 cups waterV - i teaspoon ground diinanion1 , ,V 2 cup graham-cracker crumbs2 teaspoons sugarV 4 cup raisins2 tablespoons com oil1. Cook the plantain in its sjn in the water for 5 minutes. Discardthe skin.2. Mash the plantain in,a food prcessor. Add the cinnamon, egg,graham-cracker crumbs and sugar. Process to a fairly smooth paste.Stir in the raisins.3. Heat the oil in a skillet over modrate to low heat. Add theplantain mixture and smooth over the surface. Fry diis large pancakefor 5 minutes. Tum it over and brown the other side. Serve warm,cut into wedges, as though it were a pie.SERVES 6

Documents

Mayan cuisine in Guatemala