Maximum Yield EU July/Aug 2013

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Europe July - August 2013

MaxiMuM Yield’s

maximumyield.com indoorgardeningexpo.com

SAN FRANCISCOCALIFORNIA

July 27-28

LONG BEACH CALIFORNIA

OCTOBER 26-27

OrganolepticQualityWhich nutrients

contribute togood taste?

TrOubleshOOTyOur garden

InsTrumenTaTIOnmade easy

+

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http://www.nutriculture.co.uk

http://www.hygrozyme.com

http://www.global-hydro.net

CONTENTSJuly/August 2013

DEPARTMENTS8 From the Editor

10 MaximumYield.com

12 Letters to the Editor

14 Ask the Experts

16 MAX Facts

24 Product Spotlight

70 Do You Know

71 Industry's Latest

72 You Tell Us

74 Talking Shop

76 Max Mart

80 Distributors

82 Coming up Next Issue

32 Instumentation Made Easy and TroubleshootingBy Dr. Lynette Morgan

40 Think Inside the Pot: Container Gardening & DesignBy Dave Watkins

44 Organoleptic Quality —Which Nutrients Contribute to Good Taste?By Frank Rauscher

48 Reverse Osmosis: How To Get the Most Out of your RO SystemBy Jennifer Casey

54 Amino Acids ExplainedBy Eric Hopper

56 Amazing AloeBy Heather Brautman

60 Photons: The Secret to Light Speed GrowthBy Grubbycup

64 Are Organic Pesticides Always Safer?By Bill Deboer

68 How to Make an Orchid BloomBy Heather Rhoades

38

48

FEATURES

4064

56

6 Maximum Yield | July/August 2013

http://www.canadianxpress.com

FROM THE EDITOR | LINDA JESSON

CONTRIBUTORS

Linda Jesson

Message from the

Editor

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored fi ve hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz for more information.

Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 475,000+ readers throughout the USA, Canada, UK, Europe, New Zealand and Australia. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.

Eric Hopper has over 10 years of experience in the hydroponic industry as both a retail store manager and owner. He continuously seeks new methods and products that could help maximize garden performance. Eric resides in Michigan where he and his family strive for a self-suffi cient and sustainable lifestyle.

Bill DeBoer is a laboratory scientist at Indiana-based steadyGROWpro. A master gardener intern, Bill is responsible for company’s laboratory operations, including the design and execution of research projects, plant propagation, seed germination and overall plant care. Bill has a BS and MS from Purdue University, and was previously a research technician for the US Department of Agriculture.

Dave Watkins hails from the Shires of England and has spent the last 30 years answering gardening questions for radio and television. His common sense solutions and suggestions are the hallmark of his advice. His present goal is to involve and encourage more children to garden. Dave is president of the local Carnation Society and vice president of the county Fuchsia society.

Jennifer Casey loves her two dogs, her husband, the amazing garden he grows and living in the country—in that order. Crafting, reading and cooking from the garden are her favorite ways to spend her time.

Heather Brautman’s hydroponics knowledge consisted of her favorite ride at Walt Disney World’s before she moved to California in October 2011. Since becoming Hydrofarm’s staff writer in February 2012, she’s been enjoying learning about grow media—like coco coir and perlite—not paparazzi. She has a master’s degrees in technical writing as well as PR/communications.

Grubbycup has been an avid indoor gardener for over 20 years. His articles were fi rst published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czechoslovakian and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics.

We all know our gardens require a little bit more than tender love and care to keep producing those quality yields we are all after. That's why in this issue you'll find many tips and tricks to help you set up and maintain a high-producing grow space. In "Instrumentation Made Easy" we learn about the essential tools that will make our growing life easier, and in "Organoleptic Quality" we discover which nutrients contribute to good taste. Of course, high-quality water also plays a role in all this, so we also take a look at how to get the most out of your reverse osmosis system. We combine those with informative articles about the amazing aloe plant, incredible photons, and why you might considering thinking inside the pot. In addition, we spotlight retail shop Hi9 in Cumbria that was founded via volunteers. To round it all off we get up close and personal with Global Hydro, the makers of the BudBox growing systems. We pair these informative articles with a couple of shorter reads, a few fun facts in our MAX Facts section and product spotlights on some of the latest gear growers are using these days. Have you attended an Indoor Gardening Expo yet this year? We've got two more events planned in our 2013 Grow Like a Pro tour. We'll be in San Francisco, California, for the tenth year in a row on July 27 to 28, 2013. After that, we'll be set up in Long Beach, California, on October 26 to 27, 2013. These events are open to all members of the indoor growing industry! More information, including special hotel rates and free passes, can be found at indoorgardenexpo.com Do you have a comment or question regarding the contents of this issue of Maximum Yield? We'd love to hear from you! E-mail [email protected] to share with us.

Frank Rauscher is a certifi ed horticulturist and consultant for the garden industry. He’s a contributing author to several publications and was writer and editor of the Green Pages. Frank fi nds that analyzing plant stress and fi nding solutions is exciting. He is very much at home bringing new ideas to the fi eld of horticulture and indoor gardening.


http://www.inda-gro.com

PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim JessonGENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores

BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson

EDIToRIAL Editor Linda Jesson

[email protected] Editor Julie McManus

[email protected]

ADVERTISING SALESSales Manager

Ilona Hawser - [email protected]

Account ExecutivesKelsey Hepples - [email protected] Montague - [email protected]

Jed Walker - [email protected]

DESIGN & PRoDUCTIoN [email protected]

Art Director Alice JoeGraphic Designers

Jennifer EvertsDionne Hurd

Jesslyn Gosling

ACCoUNTING Tracy Greeno - [email protected]

jULY/AUGUST 2013

Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.

2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687No part of this magazine may be reproduced

without permission from the publisher.If undeliverable please return to

the address above.The views expressed by columnists are a personal

opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

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UK DISTRIBUTIoNDirect Garden Supplies

DutchproFuture Harvest Developments Europe

Growth TechnologyMaxigrow Ltd.Nutriculture UK

CANADIAN DISTRIBUTIoNBrite-Lite Group

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Greenstar Plant Products Inc.HydrotekMegaWatt

Northern Hydroponic WholesaleQuality Wholesale

USA DISTRIBUTIoNAurora Innovations

BWGSGeneral HydroponicsHumboldt Wholesale

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COMING UP ON THE WEB

Tell us what you think at [email protected]. We’d love to hear from you.

ConneCt with MaxiMuM Yield

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FREE DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIoN To MaxiMuM YieldNow you can receive Maximum Yield free to your inbox every month. Sub-scribe to the digital edition of Maximum Yield by simply filling out the form at maximumyield.com/subscriptions

GoT QUESTIoNS? GET ANSwERS.Maximum Yield’s resident experts are available and ready to answer your modern gardening questions. Email [email protected] or fill out the “Ask the Experts” form on maximumyield.com

Connect to maximumyield.com instantly from your Smart-phone with our Quick Response (QR) Code, found on the cover of every issue of Maximum Yield. Now you can access the best products, the most in-depth articles and information, and the latest news at high speeds. Simply download the QR Code Reader software com-patible with your Smartphone, scan the QR Code and your phone’s browser will automatically launch, redi-recting you to maximumyield.com. It’s that simple!

INDooR GARDENING ExPo UPDATESWe’re now halfway through the 2013 Grow like a Pro Indoor Gardening Expo season. Be sure to mark the last two dates on your calendar; we’ll be in San Francisco, California, July 27 and 28 and in long Beach, California, on October 26 and 27. Whether you’re a new or experienced gardener, these trade shows offer something for

everyone. Stay tuned to indoorgardenexpo.com for details so you can plan your 2013 vacation. Also be sure to check out the expo buzz happening on our social media pages.


http://www.grotek.net

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Hey Maximum,I love your magazines! They are so helpful and informative and contain up-to-date technology tips. I can find solutions to my gardening problems and learn about new products and new methods.Connie

How Diluted?I read Eric’s article on oxygen [“Dissolved Oxygen: the Hidden Necessity” by Eric Hopper in Maxi-mum Yield March/April 2013], which was very informa-tive. Two ques-tions: If you want to add H202, how diluted should it be and how much should you add? Also when is there enough DO to prohibit anaerobic to form? Niklas

Hi Niklas,The 30 to 35% H2O2 can be used as 10 ml per 4 L fresh water to wash through infected root systems. This is a last-ditch attempt at saving crop from root rot, etc. Wash through a couple of times and rinse well. Add one 1 or 2 ml per 4 L with waterings for a couple weeks after that. The super blast of O2 will kill all kinds of mi-crobes and hurts nutrients; it has saved crops, however!

Maximum Yield Publications Inc.Snail-mail: 2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9Email: [email protected]: twitter.com/max_yieldFacebook: facebook.com/MaximumYield

We Want to hear from you!

Your

TwoWe asked on Facebook:

“Who supplements their indoor/greenhouse with CO

2? How are you doing it and to

what level and what difference in growth or yields are you observing?”

Here are some of the great responses we received:

I do with a parts-per-million reader, flow regulator and CO

2 tank that I refill weekly.

I’ve seen enhanced yields as high as 20% from my standard production." Don

Using rapid air exchange, plus having the brew kit in the room adds extra CO

2 to the

atmosphere; it is only an increase of 2-300 ppm [sic], but during veg this helps." Bailey

Thanks, MYYour magazine keeps me up to date with the latest and greatest in this industry. Easy-to-read articles, great product write-ups; in this era of indoor gardening, it is good to have a solid fall back for information and your mag keeps it com-ing. Thanks for all your hard work. Keep growing,Tony

Not a Green Thumb, YetI’m on disability and decided to try a vegetable garden. I found the tips [in Maximum Yield] on everything from water-ing to germinating and others very helpful as I am not a green thumb.Daniel

In Response to Indoor Garden ExposThis show is amazing! Last year we met amazing people, got amazing samples, learned so much and had a great time!Christian (via Facebook)


http://www.growthtechnology.com

SIMON SAYS ASk ThE ExPERTS

When feeding freshly cut unrooted clones, what nutrient solution and dosage do you recommend?Paul

We don’t recommend attempting to feed your unrooted clones. Since roots are like mouths for plants, trying to feed an unrooted clone isn’t very productive. You want to limit your cuttings’ tasks during the propagation process, so giving them nutrients too early in their lifecycle can send mixed signals.Nutrients are fuel for growth, and during the

rooting process you want your fresh cuttings to only concentrate on root development and not leaf and foliage production. Once your cut-tings have started to root, a very light strength grow nutrient can be added to your solution to begin encouraging normal, healthy vegetative growth. We recommend dipping cuttings in a quality rooting gel and placing it in your cloner or medium.Roots are the most important component during cloning, so concentrate on getting the

best possible roots first! Once you’ve established them, go ahead and begin to feed your ladies with your favourite growth formula.

Scott Thompson-Montague

Can you give me results for growing crops in soil versus aeroponics—rates, yields, etc.?Ralph Smith

Unfortunately there haven’t really been many relevant, scientifically accurate studies making this comparison between aeroponics and soil growing, the reason being that the conditions of such studies vary so much that a conclusive result would be hard to get. For example, if a soil of excellent physical and nutritional properties was compared against a poorly designed aeroponic system, the results would be different than if a poorly structured soil was compared against a more superior aeroponic system. Factors such as the crop type, effect of environmental conditions on growth, water hold-ing capacity and aeration of the soil, temperature of the nutrient, makeup of the nutrient solution, nutritional factors in the soil, pH, etc. all have such a huge result on variables such as yield that a standard comparison is very hard to make (i.e, it is not just the system that affects yields and growth rate; in fact some-times the system only has a minimal effect).

Dr. Lynette Morgan

ScottThompson-Montague

Dr. Lynette Morgan


http://www.getbluelab.com

MAX FACTS HYDROpONIC NEwS, TIpS AND TRIvIA

MAXFACTS HYDROPONIC NEWS, TIPS AND TRIVIA

A Truly Green Use of BicyclesCoating the roof of your greenhouse on a bicycle? It might sound a little weird, but according to William Poppe of helderglas.nl it works just fine. “We used to do it by foot, but where’s the fun in that? You’re walking on glass, which is not stable, and the windows might break. This is a lot more labour-friendly and comfortable.” Transport of the coating bike is easier than that of a large machine, but the biggest advantage is that the windows can stay open, which means humidity and temperature levels won’t be affected.(Source: hortidaily.com)

Ancient FertilisersResearchers from the University of Gothenburg in Sweden have spent many years studying the remains of a Stone Age community in Karleby outside the town of Falköping, Sweden. Us-ing some highly advanced analysis techniques, researchers discovered elevated levels of the isotope N15 (nitrogen 15) in the remains of grains and other plants found at the site. The elevated levels could indicate that fertilisers were used in the area nearly 5,000 years ago.(Source: sciencedaily.com)

Home-grown DemandWith the opening of a new 5.7 hectare greenhouse in Kent, APS Salads has seen a 50% increase in their greenhouse production within the UK. The expansion is part two of a three-part plan to increase production in response to increased demand from consumers for UK-grown produce.(Source: freshplaza.com)


http://www.plant-success.com


CelebrityEndorsed VeggiesKale—the star of the brassica family—has enjoyed a 40% increase in popularity over the past year. This boost is partly thanks to celebrity chefs like Jamie Oliver, who featured the green in a wide variety of recipes. (Source: telegraph.co.uk)

just what Makes That Little old AntChange a Flower’s Nectar Content?As frequent visitors to flowers, ants act as pollinators when they forage on sugar-rich nectar. However, a new study revealed that when feeding on a sample of nectar, ants transmitted sugar-eating yeasts. This resulted in higher fructose and glucose levels and lower sucrose levels. The chemical composition of nec-tar, including the type of sugars involved, differs among plant species and has been thought to be linked to pollinator type (for example, plants pollinated by hummingbirds tend to have nectar with high amounts of sucrose). By chang-ing the nectar chemistry, ants could be indirectly affecting subsequent pollinator visitations. Indeed, a plant could lose some of its target pollina-tors, which would potentially affect overall seed set and plant fitness.(Source: sciencedaily.com)

A Gardener’s Best FriendNew research suggests that the gardener’s best friend, the earthworm, is great at protecting leaves from being chomped by slugs. Spanish slugs are among the top 100 worst alien species in Europe and are considered a pest almost everywhere. However, scientific research found that the presence of worms increased nitrogen content of plants and reduced the number of leaves damaged due to slugs by 60%. Yet when they compared leaf area damaged the researchers found slugs also ate 40% less at high plant diversity than at low. Scientists explained that one of two things might be going on: the earthworms im-proved the plant’s ability to protect itself through the build-up of nitrogen-containing toxic compounds, or that in high diverse ecosystems these slugs eat less because they have to switch their diets more often.(Source: sciencedaily.com)


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Bee Survival: Ban More Pesticides?This spring, the European Commission slapped a two-year ban on insecticides suspected of killing off bee colonies. Studies suggest that the nicotine-like compounds fry bees’ navigation systems and leave them unable to learn, while weakening their immune system. But scientists now warn that other nerve agents targeting insect pests could also be harming bees and other pollinators. Christopher Connolly, a neuroscientist at the University of Dundee, argues that we should not allow farmers to spray a toxic soup of chemi-cals onto their crops.(Source: sciencedaily.com)

From Landfill to Nature Reserve For longer than most people can remember, Mucking Marshes Landfill in England festered as an ugly reminder of just how messy we humans can be. Over the course of 50 years, the pile of trash there along the mouth of the River Thames grew and grew, fed by the refuse and waste of six London boroughs. But now, after years of effort on the part of conservationists, the scene today couldn’t be more different. Famed naturalist Sir David Attenborough and members of the Essex Wildlife Trust officially opened the Thurrock Thameside Nature Park— a 120-acre nature reserve of grassland, woods and marshes built atop the former landfill. The reserve will be expanded to cover an additional 725 acres over the coming years.(Source: treehugger.com)


http://www.foreverflowering.net

MAX FACTS

Banana the Number-one Fruit in Britain A recent survey carried out by the office fruit delivery company Fruitdrop found that most people in Britain—40% in fact—prefer to have a banana when it comes to snacking on fruit. The runner-up was apples at 23%. (Source: online.wsj.com)

Tomatoes with an LED BoostRecent research has found that tomatoes can contain more vitamin C if they are exposed to LED lamps while growing on the plant. Sci-entists chose several different plant varieties and suspended LED modules around the tomato clusters, which are normally shaded from sun by leaves. In the tomato variety that showed the strongest reaction, the tomatoes receiving extra light from the LEDs con-tained up to twice as much vitamin C as the tomatoes not exposed to the LEDs, even though the extra dose of light was equivalent to only a quarter of the natural light intensity on a sunny day.(Source: treehugger.com)

An App with LayersIf you’re an onion grower holding a smartphone, you’re in luck. Nickerson-Zwaan has launched The Onion App to assist its customers in achieving successful onion harvests. The app is easy to download and user friendly. It contains information (images and text) on issues such as fungi, bacterial diseases, foliar, storage and viral diseas-es, nematodes, insects and non-parasitic disorders. The information is supplemented with practical recommendations. The app is kept up to date, and it works offline. The Onion App is available in Dutch, German and English languages, and is completely free of charge. (Source: freshplaza.com)

21Maximum Yield | July/August 2013

Quantity, Not Quality?The laTesT lighTing Technology fresh ouT of holland

Now You CaN Have BotH

ADvERTORIAl

HSE 600W

HSE Daylight

“The benefiT growers geT from daylighT specTrum is a higher qualiTy

of planT due To The facT ThaT iT is The closesT a grower can geT To

providing naTural sunlighT, allowing planTs To form more branches for

plenTiful, higher qualiTy planT mass.”

In 2012, Dutch horticultural lighting giant Hortilux Schréder introduced two new lighting systems into the UK hydro-ponics market based on their intensive commercial glasshouse technology and Philips lamp technology. The two new lighting systems, the HSE Daylight and the HSE 600W come with a built-in electronic ballast, an electronic lamp and reflectors. These systems boast excellent grow light efficiencies that pip traditional HID lighting systems to the post on light output. But interestingly, these two new systems, when combined in the same growroom, create a formi-dable force. In this article, we find out more about how UK hobby growers are combining two types of light for higher quality plants and increased yields.For successful flowering of plants

indoors, growers traditionally use high pressure sodium (HPS) lighting for its high output of red/orange light, essential for adult growth and flower-ing. HPS lighting is still proven to be the most effective for indoor growing due to this high output of growth light. The problem many growers encounter when using HPS lights alone is that their plants experience accelerated, but leggy, growth as a response to red/orange light. For this reason some growers choose to incorporate blue lighting from metal halides, LEDs or dual spectrum lamps to counteract this legginess because blue light (used in propagating) makes plants form more branch nodes. A new combination of lighting that

has recently excited growers looking to boost their crops is the use of daylight spectrum lighting alongside HPS lights. Plants have evolved with the broad spectrum of light present in sunlight.

When growers use red and blue plant lighting as a substitute, although these are the most used colours by plants, there are still many useful colours of the spectrum missing. Plants respond to all the colours between 400 nm and 700 nm, not just red and blue. This is why lighting experts are now designing systems with daylight spectrum output, and the word is out on what a dif-ference this makes to your plants. The HSE Daylight

system is the latest day-light spectrum technol-ogy to hit the horti-cultural market using Philips lighting tech-nology for an ultra-efficient system. The Philips MASTERColour CDM-T Elite 315W lamp is arguably the closest thing to artificial daylight on the market.The benefit growers get

from daylight spectrum is a higher quality of plant due to the fact that it is the closest a grower can get to provid-ing natural sunlight, allowing plants to form more branches for plentiful,

higher quality plant mass. When com-bined with your traditional HPS light-ing, the results are impressive. It really

comes down to simple science; excel-lent daylight spectrum gives more

branch formations and quality produce. When combined

with powerful HPS lighting, it adds

excellent growth and flowering. Daylight lamps

can also be used for propagation and

vegging as well as combining with HPS. With daylight

spectrum, propagation times are reduced and

young plants estab-lish themselves quickly, produc-ing healthier, bulkier growth. Internodal lengths are reduced resulting in

squatter plants that are stronger, more productive and easier to harvest. The enhanced levels of UV-B (often lacking


http://www.maxigrow.com

in growrooms lit with just HPS lights) help to guard against pests and moulds and also boost essential oil produc-tion—particularly useful for growers of culinary herbs.The HSE 600W HPS lighting system

from Hortilux Schréder was launched in the UK in 2012 alongside their HSE Daylight system. Again combin-ing Philips lamp technology with Hortilux Schréder glasshouse tech-nology, the lamp in this system has the highest grow light output of all 600-W lamps on the hobby market at 1190 µmol per second. Hortilux Schréder are leading experts in the field of plant lighting, supplying an incredible 90% of the commercial glasshouse market internationally. The HSE 600W HPS lighting system was re-developed from their glass-house model to become a lighting system with the same efficiencies that can be run in the home. What is special about this lighting system is that it allows you to use 400-V lamp technology from commercial glass-houses with your home’s 240-V supply for increased yields. The lamp is a Philips MASTER GreenPower Plus 600W/400V electronic lamp, the ‘Plus’ being the latest version with even higher output. The HSE 600W system has two

state-of-the-art reflectors, the Delta and Zèta, which you can interchange

depending on your crop stage. The Delta gives a wider spread of light, perfect for even propagation and vegging young plants. The Zèta is designed especially for canopy pen-etration, sending down a powerful but plant-friendly beam of intense light to the canopy. This means more quality growth lower down the plant, not just full development and ripeness at the top. These reflectors were the result of vast amounts of photometric data and collaboration with both Philips and technology partners Raymax. Made with aluminium coated with glass atoms (known as MIRO-9), the reflec-tors give maximum reflection. This is great news for home growers looking for quality and uniformity across their crop—especially those who enjoy producing fast-growing, short-cycle, heavy-fruiting annuals such as chillies and bush variety tomatoes indoors. So, watch this space as we see the

response to the revelation that plants can indeed be both quality and quantity.

❶ PAR SPECTRUM OF LIGHT USED BY PLANTS

❷ SPECTRUM OUTPUT FROM HSE DAYLIGHT WITH PHILIPSMASTERCOLOUR CDM-T ELITE LAMP

USER REPORTS: Growers switching over to using combined lighting with the HSE Daylight and HSE 600W systems have given glowing reports that the results are clearly visible. Jeff Winterborne, owner of Esoteric Horticulture Ltd in Surrey and author of the expert grow guide Hydroponics: Indoor Horticulture (Pukka Press: 2005), explains: ‘One recent customer reported up to 28% extra yield and 30% higher quality from his system of four HSE 600W lights and one HSE Daylight. Some customers are also using the Philips Agro 315W HPS lamp that is also compatible with the HSE Daylight system and they are getting the same yields as they would under 600W HPS lights but for half the power consumption.’

for more informaTion and a lisT of your nearesT reTailers visiT www.maxigrow.com

ADvERTORIAl


http://www.maxigrow.com

pRODUCT SpOTLIGHT

Shear Perfection Pruning and Cutting ToolsNational Garden Wholesale® is excited to announce the arrival of the Shear Perfection™ Pruning and Cutting Tools. This new line of quality hand tools will perform for years. The titanium coated stainless steel blades will stay sharp during multiple uses and are very easy to clean. These shears include a com-fort-grip handle with spring-loaded action for less fatigue on your hands. Stor-age is simple with an easy-lock mechanism. For right- or left-handed use. Shear Perfection—A Cut Above! Visit a retailer near you for more information.

YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S HOTTEST ITEMSAsk for them at your local indoor gardening store.

Bluelab Soil pH Pen Packaging ErrorOops! We’ve made an error on the pack-aging for our newest member of the pen family. The Bluelab

Soil pH Pen is missing a zero and a dot from one of the fields in the specifications table. Just two little details… yet they are vitally important. The accuracy of the Bluelab Soil pH Pen at 25°C is ± 0.1pH. Packaging changes have been made; however, there will be some products cir-culating with the incorrect specifications. Visit your local indoor gardening store for more information.

Sunmaster Dual Spectrum Grow+ Photonic Lamps Sunmaster HID Lamps promote healthy plant growth throughout the growth cycle. The new Sunmaster Dual Spectrum Grow+ Photonic is the latest in horticultural technology with high output red light and enhanced blue light for healthier growth from vegetation through to flower using just one lamp. Ideal for variable output power packs, the Dual Spectrum Grow+ Pho-tonic has enhanced spectral stability at lowered, overdriven and fluctuating power levels giving plants the optimum spectrum for growth with each power mode. Check out your local indoor gardening store for more information.


Rainmaker SprayersSunlight Supply®, Inc. is excited to announce the arrival of the Rainmaker Sprayers. From the 0.95-L spray bottle to the 18.93-L battery-powered portable sprayer, these all-purpose sprayers feature chemical-resistant polyethylene plastic bodies. This durable plastic is translucent, allowing liquid level measure-ments to be easily identified. Rainmaker Sprayers in the 3.79- through 11.36-L sizes come with a funnel-top design, while the 15.14- and 18.93-L mod-els feature a threaded wide-mouth opening and integrated filter to help prevent spilling or dripping. Rainmaker Sprayers can be used for a variety of home and garden applications, including cleaning agents, herbicides, pesticides and foliar feeding fer-tiliser or compost tea. For more information, please visit a hydropon-ics shop near you.

Dutchpro's original Grow Hydro/Coco A+B Soft waterDutchpro's award-winning Original Grow Hydro/Coco A+B Soft Water is a com-plete grow feed that’s proven to be perfect for hydro and coco methods. Soft water formulations are especially designed for soft water areas. This product has all the essential macronutrients and micronutrients necessary for exuberant growth. For fertilizer use mix 100 L of water with between 250 and 350 ml of Original Grow Hydro/Coco dependant on the desired EC level. Never mix the com-ponents in pure form with each other. Instead, add component A, water and then component B in equal parts (always rinsing the measuring cup well). Available in sizes ranging from 1, 5, 10, 20 and the new 50 L. Dutchpro nutrients are stable

and clear and contain organic elements. Ask a local retailer for more information

about Dutchpro products.


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pRODUCT SpOTLIGHT

Biobizz Try·PacksEach of the four Biobizz® Try·Packs™ consists of three 250-ml bottles of Biobizz® products. The combinations are:

1. Indoor·Pack: Bio·Grow®, Bio·Bloom™ and Top·Max™

2. Outdoor·Pack: Fish·Mix™, Bio∙Bloom™ and Top∙Max™

3. Stimulant∙Pack: Alg·A·Mic™, Top∙Max™ and Root∙Juice™

4. Hydro∙Pack: Root∙Juice™, Top∙Max™ and Bio∙Heaven™

The four packs can be used on all kinds of substrates and mediums. The Indoor·Pack can be used from the beginning of the flowering phase on indoor crops. The Outdoor·Pack can also be used from the beginning of the flowering phase, but is more suitable for outdoor crops. The Stimulant∙Pack allows for an even better quality and quantity of a harvest. Finally, the Hydro·Pack results in a better harvest in hydroponic systems.

Growlush 600-w Programmable Digital Ballast The new Growlush 600-W Programmable Digital Ballast features the same quality, silent operation, dimming and super lumen functions as our previous silent, elec-tronic ballasts, but adds the functionality of a built-in digital timer to manage your light schedule with down-to-the-minute accuracy, as well as a remote control option. Growlush ballasts feature low failure rates and are backed by a 3-year limited war-ranty and include safety features that include automatic shutdown in case of a short circuit, overheating or lamp failure. This modern, electronic ballast is up to 30% more energy efficient and can help to prolong lamp life by up to 10%. Additionally, users can seamlessly switch between MH and HPS bulbs and adjust light output on the fly from as little as 50% to as high as 110%. For more information, ask a local retailer.

The oG Air-cooled Reflector Designed in the United States by Growlite and manufactured by Growlush, the OG air-cooled Reflector is a new design for growroom lighting that utilises a patented vertical orientation and a carefully researched and designed 360-degree parabolic reflector that allows it to evenly concentrate and layer light. In-house and independent evalu-ations have shown that a 600-W lamp fitted in an OG Reflector can effectively match the performance of a 1,000-W bulb in a horizontal air-cooled reflector. The OG also features Concealed Vacuum Airflow Technology, which allows it to efficiently exhaust heat away from the bulb by creating a cyclone effect to swirl air around the bulb and out of the reflector to the ventilation system. For more information, ask a local retailer.

B’Cuzz Bloom StimulatorFor many plants the flowering period is the most important period in the cycle. The B’Cuzz Bloom Stimulator will force blooming at an early stage, which will start the flowering period earlier and ultimate-ly make it last longer and happen more intensely. This bloom stimu-lator can be absorbed directly by the plant and it contributes to an explosive flower production. B’Cuzz Bloom Stimulator is available in the following sizes: 100 ml, 500 ml, 1 L and 5 L. Find out more information at a retailer near you.


Sun System Dominator xxxL Air-cooled ReflectorsSunlight Supply®, Inc. is excited to announce the arrival of the Dominator XXXL 15.24- and 20.32-cm Air-cooled Reflectors, the latest addition to the Sun System® reflector line. These new massive reflectors have increased coverage area and excellent uniformity. This allows closer placement to plants. These reflectors are completely sealed with double-gasketed glass and captured thumb screws that pull the glass frame tight for an airtight seal. As with all Sun System reflectors, they feature a 95% reflective German aluminum interior. Unmatched in output, uniformity and performance, you can’t afford to not have this reflector in your growroom. Visit a retailer near you for more information.

Maxibright Dual Spectrum CFL Lamps The complete range of Maxibright Compact Fluorescent Lamps has been expertly designed for every stage of plant growth. Energy efficient with low heat output, they are safe to place close to your plants to maximise light to your plants. The Maxibright CFL range comes in blue 6,400K for promoting vegetative growth and red 2,700K for flowering and is available in 125 W, 200 W, 250 W and 300 W. Simply interchange between lamps to suit your plant stage. A new addition to the range is the Maxibright Dual Spectrum CFL in 250 W, the latest in horticultural technology provid-ing a perfect balance of red and blue light through-out the plant cycle to give you healthier, bulk-ier growth. For more informa-tion, visit your local retailer.



pRODUCT SpOTLIGHT

CANNA CoCo SubstratesGrowing in coco is one of the most popular growing methods in the UK. Therefore, years ago, CANNA developed two dif-ferent substrates: CANNA COCO Natural and CANNA Professional Plus. CANNA COCO Natural

is an organic product free of harmful viruses or soil diseases. It has an excellent water/air system and provides the ideal circumstances for this cultivation method. This product is very lightly buffered, meaning you have more control over the buffering process and have more influence on the plant’s growth and bloom. CANNA COCO Professional Plus is a pure, organic product with a homo-

geneous structure. It is free of harmful viruses and soil diseases thanks to CANNA’s unique production process, and it is fully buffered. It also has a complex water/air system that provides the ideal conditions. Just like the Natural, CANNA COCO Professional Plus contains trichoderma that protect the plant. Visit your local grow store for more information about both products.

xtreme Gardening’s MykostartMykostart All-purpose Plant Starter Paks are an efficient and easy method of feeding new transplants. Add to plant holes, backfill and remember to water; it’s that simple. Slow-release organic and natural fertilisers are combined with root-boosting mycor-rhizae in a unique biodegradable pack that keeps nutrients in the root zone—right where they need to be. More nutrients near the roots mean more nutrients in the fruits. For more information, visit a local retailer.

Dutchpro’s original Bloom Soil A+BDutchpro’s award-winning Original Bloom Soil A+B is a complete bloom feed purposely

designed for soil. This product has all of the essential macronutrients and micronutrients necessary for exuberant bloom. For fertiliser use mix 100 L of water with 200 or 300 ml of Original Bloom Soil, dependant on the desired EC level. Never mix components in pure form with each other. Instead add com-

ponent A, water and then component B in equal parts (always rinsing the measuring cup well). Available in sizes ranging from 1, 5, 10, 20 and 50 L. Dutchpro nutrients are stable and clear and contain organic elements to keep plants vital and green until the end of the cycle. For more information, ask for Dutchpro at your local retail store.

Maximize the Life of Bluelab pH ProductsIt is extremely important to use, care for and store pH probes correctly. If they are not used correctly they may break or die prematurely. Never store, rinse or soak Bluelab pH Pens or pH Probes in reverse osmosis (RO), distilled or de-ionized water. Pure water changes the chemistry in the reference, causing the probe to die. Bluelab has created the perfect solution to maximise the response time and life of Bluelab pH products. Combine Bluelab pH Probe KCl Storage Solution with a Bluelab Probe Care Kit–pH and you will have the tools you need to get the best life from your pH products. Bluelab pH Probe KCl Storage Solution is ideal for use with the following Bluelab products: Bluelab pH Pen, Bluelab Soil pH Pen, Bluelab pH and soil pH Probes. Available in 100-ml bottles. For more information, visit a retail store near you.


x-Stream Aeroponic PropagatorThe X-Stream range of propagators have been trusted by growers for years, but based on feedback from the market they have been redeveloped to provide even better results with improved flexibility. With an improved delivery system, the roots that are produced are stronger and transplanting can happen in as little as 10 days. What’s more, the number of cutting sites has increased, with the original 36- and 105-site propagators replaced by a 40 and a 120 site, respectively. The range is com-pleted by a 12- and 20-site propagator. The full range has been developed to provide even greater access to your cuttings and improved prod-uct rigidity. For more informa-tion, see a local retailer.

ostberg Americas Announces the CK Series FanThe CK is an in-line duct fan that combines the benefits of a radial fan with high pressure and low noise levels along with ease of installation. This compact fan installs in any posi-tion. It is also compatible with speed controllers, is moisture-resistant for use in humid/damp locations and is manufactured from heavy-gauge galvanized steel. The UL507 models are finished with a baked epoxy coating, and all models have standard auto-reset thermal overload protection. The CK series is UL listed, and comes with a 10-year limited warranty. For more information, visit a local retailer.



pRODUCT SpOTLIGHT

CANNA CoCoAfter years of research, CANNA succeeded in being the first to develop a fertil-iser specifically tailored to the characteristics of the coco substrate. The constant quality and same recipe (for years!) have proved to be a huge success in the UK!Thanks to the special characteristics of the CANNA COCO substrate,

CANNA COCO does not have a Vega and Flores version. Instead, CANNA has developed one unique formulation for both the growth and flowering phase. CANNA COCO is easy to use, dissolves directly and is extremely suitable for growing in many watering systems. For more information about CANNA COCO fertilisers, please visit a shop near you.

Tomato & Vegetable 6-2-3Tomato & Vegetable 6-2-3 is a technologically advanced blend of natural and organic fertilisers with Mykos root-enhancing soil microbes. The unique combination of nutrients provides even the hungriest heirloom with all the neces-sary food for abundant growth, while the beneficial Mykos helps bridge the gap between roots and the nutri-ents present in the surrounding soil. Learn more at a retail store near you.

ostberg Americas Announces the RKB Series FanOstberg Americas, Inc. announces the RKB series in-line centrifugal duct fan. The RKB is a compact, high-capacity, rectangular centrifugal fan that can be installed in any position. This product is UL705 approved. The RKB connects to rectangular ducts, has backward curved impellers, is manufactured from galvanized steel and has a swing-out design for easy cleaning. It is also designed specifically for high pressures in long runs of ducting. This product is moisture-proof, approved for outdoor use and has maintenance-free motors protected from overheating with built-in thermo contacts. Six sizes (up to 198 m3/min) are available. Visit an indoor gardening store to learn more.

Dutchpro’s Leaf GreenDutchpro’s award-winning Leaf Green is used to achieve good leaf development in your garden. Leaf Green

gives plants a healthy and vital look. It is especially recommended for plants that have notice-able difficulties with their development. It also gives plants with a yellowish disco-

louring a fresh green colour. Also use it for improving a plant’s nutrient uptake. Leaf Green is non-ammonia based and comes ready to use as a spray-on liquid. Spraying on the leaves should be done at least three hours before the lights go on. Available in sizes ranging from 1, 5, 10 and 20 L. Dutchpro nutrients are stable and clear and contain organic elements. For more information, ask a local retailer about Dutchpro products.


FloraKleenFloraKleen is a salt clearing solution from General Hydroponics that removes all fertiliser residues on all substrates at any time. FloraKleen is designed to rid the substrates in hydro systems and soil from fertiliser residues at any time of the culture cycle. It is used during growing, prior to a nutri-tion change for example, or between crops to clean systems and substrates from accumulated salts. It is used in hydroponics with any substrate, as well as in soil. Its high concentra-tion and low price make FloraKleen the economi-cal choice to protect your plants in both hydroponics and soil-based environments. Check a retail store near you for more information.

New Maxibright CFL Pro ReflectorsCompact fluorescent lighting (CFL) is ideal for propagation and growing larger plants, giving you energy efficient and affordable lighting with low heat output. The new Maxibright CFL Pro Reflector uses highly reflective anodised aluminium for excellent light output and even light distribution across your plants for optimum growth. For durability in humid growing environments, the Maxibright CFL Pro is built with a powder-coated steel body to prevent rust and corrosion. The reflector body has a built-in power switch to give you easy power control. Available in single and twin models; the single will run one CFL lamp (max. 400 W) and the twin will run two CFL lamps (max. 800 W). Also, check out the latest Maxibright CFL range: red and blue 125 to 300 W, and the new dual spectrum 250 W. Contact your nearest Maxibright retailer for more information.



A beginner’s

guide to the instruments you’ll need

to understand your new garden and

what to do when things go wrong.

by Dr. Lynette Morgan&Made EasyInstrumentation

+Troubleshooting


As exciting and delightful as a new indoor hydroponic garden can be for any hydroponic newbie, the vast assort-ment of instrumentation, equipment, tools and gadgets asso-ciated with the hobby can be a little overwhelming to anyone just starting out. Luckily, sticking to the basics is relatively simple and an investment in reliable instruments will make the hydroponic experience a whole lot more interesting and a little less dependent on good luck. Troubleshooting unexpected problems is another aspect of

indoor gardening that may baffle newcomers. Plants are part of a biological system and biological systems are not always

predictable or trouble-free, although with an indoor garden most problems are not that difficult to deal with once you have a little experience under your belt. Pest and disease outbreaks are the most common frustrations, as the identi-fication of culprits munching on plants or strange ‘furry or powdery’ growths on leaves tends to be the first troubleshoot-ing experience for new growers.

Instrumentation: indoor gardensThe instrumentation required for an indoor hydroponic garden tends to be rather specific to the growing environ-ment and system, so while an electronic weather station may be great for the garden in the backyard, it’s not much use being able to measure rainfall or wind speed in your grow room! Most hydroponic retailers have a great range of basic to advanced instrumentation that is specifically designed for indoor gardens, which will provide valuable and usually fairly easy-to-understand information. But while it’s great to have instruments that incorporate the latest and

InstrumentationPesky insects—green peach aphid infesting plants is a common problem when troubleshooting for pests.

“while an elecTronic weaTher sTaTion may be greaT for The garden in The backyard, iTs noT much use being able To measure rainfall or

wind speed in your grow room!”


http://www.easy-grow.co.uk

greatest technology, every grower needs to understand the basics about what they are measuring and why, as well as what the optimum values they should be checking for are. Even beginners need to know what EC or ppm and pH they should be running their solution at and how to adjust these levels, along with all the other growing basics—like the ideal temperatures, humidity and light levels their plants require to thrive.

Instrumentation for beginnersThe basics of instrumentation don’t need to be complicated: just a few simple tools are essential—solution measurement devices, environmental monitoring tools and growing aids. Growing aids include tools like a hand lens or magnifying glass to check for tiny little critters such as mites, which can turn into serious plant infestations if not identified and controlled. Environmental monitoring tools can be as simple as a greenhouse temperature gauge. These can range from old-fashioned spirit thermometers to detailed digital temper-ature gauges with multiple probes, although the newfangled

ones will have to be moisture-proof as humidity in grow-ing areas can cause havoc with electronic components. Other environmental monitoring instruments include light meters—from basic handheld lux or foot candle meters to more advanced quantum (photosynthetically active radiation) meters with multiple sensors. Solution measure-

ment is more specific to hydroponics and for the beginner a basic EC, CF or TDS meter—all of which measure the con-centration of nutrients in solution—is essential. EC, CF and TDS meters come in a full range of different makes and models and hydroponic retailers can advise you on the best type

for growers. It’s also easy to measure pH, with a range of dif-ferent methods available, from inexpensive test strips or kits sold by aquarium suppliers to electronic meters—you can even get combined EC, TDS and pH electronic meters.

Why so many different instrumentation units?One aspect of instrumentation many beginners (and often many experienced growers, too!) find incredibly frustrating is the range of different units used for measurement. For example, light can be measured and expressed as visible light—which is how the human eye experiences it (as lux, lumens, foot candles or watts per square meter or square foot), or by using quantum sensors (PAR meters), which measure plant-usable wavelengths of light in micromoles per m2/s -1, or daily light integral in moles per day.

Instrumentation for indoor gardens doesn’t need to be complex; however, some tools for essential measurements such as light are always a good idea.

Infrared thermometers are great tools for measuring leaf and solution temperatures.

“even beginners need To know whaT ec or ppm and ph They should be running Their soluTion aT and how To adjusT These levels, along wiTh all The oTher growing basics—like The ideal

TemperaTures, humidiTy and lighT levels Their planTs require To Thrive.”

instrumentation made easy


Solution concentration might be measured in CF, EC or TDS as ppm (parts per million), temperature in degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit and even the amount of moisture held in the air can be recorded as either relative humidity or vapour pressure deficit. It’s impor-tant to find out the exact units of measurement your instruments are calibrated for (particularly before you buy them) and then find out what the optimum values are for your garden in those same units. One measurement all growers should know about

is EC, or the electrical conductivity of the nutrient solution, which is a measure of the concentration of dissolved salts in that solution. These dissolved salts conduct electricity, so an EC measure is an accurate way of determining concentration levels. EC is the pre-

ferred unit of measurement for hydroponics—meters that give readings in ppm are not actually measuring parts per million, but measuring EC and then using an inbuilt, approximate conversion factor to give a reading in ppm. This conversion factor is slightly dif-ferent for different nutrient solution compositions, so it’s only an approximation. Investing in a meter that can display both EC and ppm is a great idea for growers who are familiar with ppm values but want to get accustomed to using EC as well. Conversion fac-tors between the different units of measure for light, solution concentration and temperature can be used, but who wants to do that sort of math on a daily basis? Instead, know your instrumentation units of measure and find out what the optimal level is for your indoor garden.Once you have some experience with the basics of

instrumentation its time to amp it up a bit and get a little more technically advanced in the garden. There are instruments that can give you a huge amount of data on the environment the plants are growing in, such as the solution’s composition, elemental and dissolved oxygen levels and a whole range of other fac-tors—although all this may send a grower into infor-mation overload if it can’t be processed usefully and implemented to improve plant performance.

Troubleshooting growing conditions can be vital—cool night temperatures have caused this fruit deformity on a tomato truss.

Leaf yellowing, in this case interveinal chlorosis caused by magnesium deficiency, is just one of the symptoms of nutrient disorders.

“ec is The preferred uniT of measuremenT for hydroponics—meTers ThaT give readings

in ppm are noT acTually measuring parTs per million, buT measuring ec and Then

using an inbuilT, approximaTe conversion facTor To give a reading in ppm.”


Some of the most useful instrumentation for more experi-enced or technologically advanced growers includes dis-solved oxygen (O2) meters for those with solution culture systems. Meters that measure total oxygen ppm and percent-age of oxygen saturation are great tools for checking oxygen levels in your solution culture nutrient. Another great device is the electronic controller for larger automated systems, which measures and adjusts EC and pH all by itself while you are away from the garden. For really keen hydroponic grow-ers there are even nutrient analysis systems for measuring individual elements in the nutrient on-site—which means no waiting time for analysis results to come back from the lab.

One such photometer hydroponic analysis instrument allows NO3, NH4, P, K, Ca, Mg and S in the nutrient solution to be measured directly by the grower. For those who love indoor tomatoes, a handheld or electronic brix (TDS) meter is a fun tool to measure sugars in the fruit, giving you a way to measure the overall ‘sweetness’ value of your tomatoes.

What are they called?Here’s a list of instruments commonly used for indoor gar-dening: not all are essential and some are more highly spe-cialized and geared towards the ‘hydro-geeks’ among us…


Measurement Instrument(s)Nutrient solution concentration Electrical conductivity meter (EC meter)

Conductivity meter (CF meter)

TDS meter (total dissolved solids) ppm (parts per million)

pH Electronic pH meter (pH range four to nine)

pH test strips (colour change pH range often five to nine)

pH liquid test kits (pH range often five to nine)

CO2 (carbon dioxide) Portable CO

2 monitor (ppm of CO

2)

Infrared gas analyser (IRGA)

Humidity Hygrometer (relative humidity percentage)

Dry-and wet-bulb instrument or psychrometer

Brix (total soluble solids, fruit) Refractometer: manual (also called Brix meter)

Refractometer: digital (Brix degrees)

Individual ions Photometer (N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S in mg/l or ppm)

Individual ion meters (cardy nitrate meter)

Temperature Thermometer in °C or °F, digital or spirit

Infrared thermometer for surfaces or solution temperatures

Submersible thermometer (solution temperatures)

Oxygen in solution DO meter (dissolved oxygen ppm and percentage of saturation)

Light Quantum light meter (PAR measures plant usable wavelengths as micromoles m2/s-1)

Photometric light meter (foot candles, lux, watts)

Plant stress/health Chlorophyll meter

Pest identification Hand lens, macroscope, IPM scope

TroubleshootingWhile instruments for measuring, monitoring and adjusting things in an indoor garden are valuable tools, some trouble-shooting skills are going to be required by all growers sooner or later. Hydroponic problems tend to fall into five general categories: those caused by the environment (too hot, cold,

shaded, humid or dry; not enough carbon dioxide, oxygen, air movement or ventilation), those caused by the nutrient solu-tion (nutrient balance issues or incorrect EC/TDS/pH), those caused by unwelcome intruders (insects, viruses, fungi, bacte-ria), those caused by system faults (over or underwatering, for example) or those caused by grower error or inexperience—which of course might be the root cause of all of these issues.


Powdery deposits are a sign of powdery mildew, a fungal disease of many indoor plants.

“be careful whaT you kill—noT all microbes and insecTs are harmful;

in facT, mosT are noT.”

Instruments for measuring dissolved oxygen in nutrient solutions are sometimes used by growers with solution culture systems.

While this may seem a little daunting, most beginners are able to enjoy a relatively trou-ble-free experience with their indoor garden once good control over the environment, plant nutrition and general plant growth has been established. The basics of troubleshoot-ing start with knowing what a healthy plant should look like and then checking regularly for anything unusual. Important points to remember are:

• Symptoms showing on the tops of the plants—stunting or wilting, for exam-ple—may be due to a problem with the roots. Always check root health when troubleshooting vague symptoms.

• Wilting may not be due to a lack of water—wilting can occur when the plant has been overwatered, if temperatures are too high, if the roots have been dam-aged and can’t take up water or if there is not enough oxygen in the root zone.

• Be careful what you kill—not all microbes and insects are harmful; in fact, most are not. The ‘kill everything and be super-sterile’ approach is now seen as an old-fashioned idea when it comes to indoor gardens. Biodiversity—even with an indoor garden—is gener-ally a good thing. There are beneficial insects that prey on insect pests and there are microbes such as fungi and bacteria that not only protect plants but play a role in nutrient uptake and plant health and protection. Some of these are naturally-occurring; some can be introduced with the use of commercially available products.

Some of the more common problems beginners may encounter are described briefly. There are many great books and Internet sources available should you re-quire more detail on any of these issues.



Young plants are yellowed or pale, stunted and refus-ing to grow: While there are many causes of this, the most likely one is overwatering (it is possible to overwater plants in hydroponics and it’s a common prob-lem with inexperienced growers, particularly in moisture-retentive substrates such as coco fiber). Overwatering may also encourage the root rot pathogen Pythium (check for brown, disintegrat-ing root systems).

Insects on plants: Caterpillars chewing holes, whiteflies fluttering around the tops of plants, tiny black thrips (which also cause bronzing of leaves), tiny red insects (mites) creating speckled leaves, white waxy scaly insects on plants or roots (mealy bugs), twisted foli-age on peppers (aphid feeding damage) and many more insect-related issues are all possible problems. Using a pest identification book or website is the first step, followed by applying the recommended control agent or spray.

Plants becoming very tall and stretched with pale, thin foliage and lack of productivity: You can blame this on low light levels, which is far more common in indoor gardens than high light levels, which can sometimes occur in outdoor crops and greenhouses in summer. Most beginners underes-timate how much light their plants need (it may look bright to the human eye, but be far too low in intensity for a tomato!) and they also tend to cram far too many plants into a small area. The resulting competition for light results in tall stretched plants and low yields. Beginners should seek advice from horticultural lighting specialists about exactly how many lamps they need for the number of plants they want to grow and then check light levels on a regular basis because light levels fall as bulbs age.

General poor growth: This is characterised by small plants, slow rates of development, a failure to set fruit and flowers drop-ping off. Environmental issues are often the cause of these sorts of problems. Most fruiting plants such as tomatoes and peppers need a day and night tempera-ture differential for strong flowering and fruit set and in fact most plants benefit from day to night differen-tials. Having average night temperatures run lower than day temperatures promotes stronger growth and improved flowering. For example, tomatoes have an optimum temperature of 25 to 26.11°C during the day and 20 to 21.67°C at night. When night temperatures are the same as day temperatures or higher, flowering problems become more common. Capsicums are even more sensitive to day and night temperature differ-ences than tomatoes. If overall temperatures are too hot or too cold for the species of plant being grown then the plants won’t produce happily. (It pays to research the ideal temperatures for growth).

Solution troubleshooting: Provided a clean, high-quality water source is used and recommended rates of nutrients applied, nutrient solutions are fairly reliable in small indoor gardens. Growers using city water may need to be wary of water treatment chemicals such as chloramines and chlo-ride, which can harm sensitive young plants and of hard water, which may create lime scale on pumps and equipment. Water softeners can also create problems as many use sodium in the softening process, which is an unwanted element that builds up in hydroponic systems. If you are experiencing these problems, rainwater collection or the use of small RO (reverse osmosis units) are a good solution.

“mosT fruiTing planTs such as TomaToes and peppers need a day

and nighT TemperaTure differenTial for sTrong flowering and fruiT

seT and in facT mosT planTs benefiT from day To nighT differenTials.”


Furry growths, powdery deposits or slime on leaves are all symptoms of disease:Furry, fluffy and powdery deposits are usually fungal in nature while wet, slimy and rotting spots are char-acteristic of bacterial infections. Treatment sprays are very effective; however, it’s important to read the spray product labels to check which disease is controlled by which product.

‘Just plain weird’ problems: Sometimes troubleshooting is difficult, even for experts with decades of experience. If really weird plant afflictions are a problem, the best remedy is to remove affected plants and dispose of them quickly to prevent any spread. There are many viruses that cause strange plant symptoms as well as genetic abnormalities that may be impossible to identify, so removal is usually the safest option. MY

The root disease Pythium is often the subject of troubleshooting by beginner growers


http://www.onaonline.com

by Dave Watkins

Wander around any garden centre or nursery and you are not likely to bypass the large container section. It is here that the terracotta, stone, wood and slate pots, troughs, mangers and stands are displayed.They all look good—the matching colours, sizes and designs are available in

antique and modern styles. Some argue that matching containers look better than a rag bag motley collection of old containers that are more reminis-

cent of a car boot or garage sale. However, I council against throw-ing out the old or taking them down to the recycling centre—

although that is an option that might help others in need. If you grow trailers (these are climbers without support like Hedera and clematis) they will quickly cover all the surfaces, and as long as keep them clean, they will do the trick and also will look pleasant.It would be nice if we could always start a new season with a

matching designer collection of containers, but in reality we acquire our containers. Mom and dad present you with one; your friends think you would like one for Christmas; you spot a flowering container and add it to your collection because you liked the plants in it. All in all you probably have about a

dozen assorted containers. Go on, count them up: two hanging

baskets, one half basket on the fence, three stone urns, terracotta trough with matching giant flower pots and so on it goes. I suggest always having

an odd number of the same container on hand because odd numbers work well in design. This is unless your look is strictly formal.What, apart from the material it is made of, makes a good container? The

compost has to be free draining yet able to hold on to moisture and nutrients. The compost also should have an air filled porosity of 20%. Air filled porosity, or AFP, is the amount of air in the compost. So, how much of the bulk is air? The air

“I suggest always having an odd number of same containers on hand because odd numbers

work well together.”

THINKINSIDE THE POT

Container Gardening & DesignTap into your creativity and design a container garden that suits your style, is the envy of your friends and neighbours, and looks good all summer long.


content is a lot more important than most gardeners realise. With a container it is all too easy to compact compost. Look at a container that has been standing for two or three years. It looks as if it has shrunk. The sides of the compost are usually pulled away and the level has dropped from the top. So much so that when it is watered it runs straight down the sides and out of the container, hardly adding any moisture to the compost at all. It is compacted and over time has dried out too many times.Another rule to practice is regularly top dressing or even

replanting in fresh, soil-based compost is essential. The full potential of the display will be realised and make it worthwhile when the neighbour asks why yours looks better than hers.The compost can be soil- based or soilless and should be

ideal for all displays apart from acid lovers like heathers, ferns and dwarf conifers. Soil-based composts add weight, which prevents wind from blowing the displays over and acts as a benign barrier to hold on to water and nutrients. Add some moisture retaining material—either moss, gel or even waste substitutes. These will act as reservoirs, releasing moisture as the plants need it. Slow release feed is a great standard option and I also recommend using a boost feed at the start of flowering. A foliar feed will be more useful as long as you do it when watering in the early morning or in the evening. Watering at any other time and you may run the risk of water spots and burn marks.Another rule to abide by is when you have planted up the

container always put some seed on top; it will develop and fill in as the original slows down, thus keeping that fresh look longer into the season.Planting in containers is a very personal thing. Your baskets

and tubs will inevitably reflect your choices in colour and style. Many gardeners will use every colour under the sun in a fine mixed basket; others will stick to just a one colour theme. Both are acceptable as long as it looks right to you when your plants are fully grown.

My ideal container is a 30-cm fuchsia mossed-up basket, marinka around the sides with blue lobelias using fuchsia Winston Churchill as the king plant in the middle. The new giant fuchsias also make a beautiful display, with just three young plants filling a

30-cm basket easily.When selecting the plants for your containers think of how

you view them. Do you want to be able to look down on your plants, like verbena? If so put them in low tubs. Do they look better from a height like trailing busy Lizzie? If so place them in half baskets and hang them at eye level.Don’t feel like you must always group containers side-by-

side. Explore design using them in a waterfall scheme to achieve height and impact. Progressive larger pots, one inside another, will clothe quickly and be easier to water and feed, as well as look great as columns on a patio.

“Regularly top dressing of even replanting in fresh soil-based

compost is essential.”


http://www.eurohydro.com

http://www.eurohydro.com


When we are considering how to improve our crops, one of our main concerns is that we want them to taste absolutely fantastic—sweet or tart, but never bland. To better understand the science behind this, let’s examine what it is that the roots actually take up. For example, if we want our fruits or veggies to taste sweeter, we might think that we should add sugar to our nutrient formulations—but would this actually work?

Providing an optimal supply of all the nutrients plants require is the best way to ensure good flavour. What these nutrients are and what level is optimal is the ques-tion—let’s take sulphur, for example. Sulphur is especially important, as it forms organic compounds within the plant that ultimately contribute to the flavour of the crops produced. Some soils are deficient in sulphur and you can address this by adding organic material like compost. Potting soil is generally rich in organic material, but the level of available sulphur can vary greatly.

“SUlFUR IS A STRUCTURAl SUbCOMpONENT OF AMINO ACIDS, pROTEINS AND MANY MICRONUTRIENTS AND IS ESSENTIAl TO THE pRODUCTION OF CHlOROpHYll.”


http://www.futureharvesteurope.com

Adding straight elemental sulphur has negative trade-offs and this form of sulphur is extremely slow in becoming useful for your plants. When too much sulphur is added to a soil the pH can become too low—most plants prefer a pH of between 5.5 and 6. If you are growing tomatoes, the optimum pH for that plant is slightly higher, around 6.5 to 6.8.Sulphur is a structural subcomponent of amino acids,

proteins and many micronutrients and is essential to the production of chlorophyll. Magnesium sulphate, for instance, is a chemical compound containing magnesium, sulphur and oxygen: MgSO4. Epsom salts are a form of this compound and are often used in nutrient formulas to promote rose blooms. Many of the micronutrients your plants need are delivered in this sulphate form in order to make them more available to the plant for uptake and also to add sulphur as a flavour enhancer.Sulphur is not very mobile within the plant and a

lack of sulphur can be responsible for a number of plant health issues: poor photosynthesis, poor nitrogen fixation in legumes, poor conversion of nitrates into ammonium and proteins, and retarded formation of storage proteins in developing seeds. We apply lots of potassium to our plants in order to keep them strong, but this nutrient actually exacerbates sulphur loss. Stunted plants and uneven crop development are often the result of low sulphur levels, which can aggra-vate nitrate toxicity as well. The visual symptoms of a sulphur deficiency can look like general chlorosis—similar to a nitrogen deficiency—except the young leaves stay yellow over time and leaflet yellowing is general and uniform rather than varying throughout.

Plant roots take sulphur up as sulphate—this is another reason why the best way to apply sulphur to the soil is in the form of sulphates. Copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate, manganese sulphate (not to be confused with magnesium) and zinc sulphate are all excellent nutrient supplements to enhance flavour in your veggies.Sulphur is as important to a plant as nitrogen. Most

growers pay plenty of attention to nitrogen for their crops, but don’t realise that sulphur is essential in order for plants to be able to use that nitrogen—without sulphate amino acids, proteins can’t be built and plants won’t grow. Sulphur content is lost by leaching from the soil and through anaerobic volatilisation, which happens when soil is kept too wet and insufficient oxygen is available. Because both nitrogen and sulphur are building blocks of proteins, an insufficiency of either one will cause a shortage

of chlorophyll, which will in turn result in the plant being unable to convert sunlight into energy. A lack of sulphur or nitrogen will also cause an inadequate supply of the enzyme rubisco, which changes carbon dioxide into sugar. It sounds odd, but if you want really sweet veggies you’ll have to make sure they’re getting enough sulphur in their diet!Good soils are actually full of life—the unseen

microbial organisms in the soil are responsible for the continued good health of your plants. The release of organic sulphur from soil humus is very slow and its benefit to plants is limited—mineralisa-tion is where sulphur is converted by these beneficial microbes to plant-accessible sulphates.Here is where a potential conflict can get started.

Too much straight elemental sulphur is antibacte-rial and can actually sterilise the soil to a degree—elemental sulphur is often used to sterilise injuries

“COppER SUlFATE, FERROUS SUlFATE, MANGANESE SUlFATE (NOT TO bE CONFUSED WITH MAGNESIUM) AND zINC SUlFATE ARE All EXCEllENT NUTRIENT SUpplEMENTS TO ENHANCE FlAvOUR IN YOUR vEGGIES.”


ORGANOlEpTIC qUAlITY

on succulents in order to halt the development of disease. So, even though you need to have a good level of sulphur in your soil, you also need to be very care-ful about over-application or you will undo the very process that you want to occur—mineralisation. Poor organic matter, soil humus and low microbial activity (common with pH levels that are either too low or too high) will decrease the amount of sulphur available to your plants.Using a nutrient formula with plenty of pre-miner-

alised sulphates is one safe way to deal with this conun-drum. Elemental sulphur can only be plant-available after a long breakdown period (often several years).In order to produce sulphuric acid, elemental sul-

phur requires an initial phase of microbial oxidation. The micro-organisms that produce this elemental sul-phur oxidation need most of the same nutrients that the plants need, plus a few more. The oxidising bacte-ria are mostly aerobic—which means they need plenty of soil oxygen in order to stay healthy and reproduce. When you water your plants too often you create soil with insufficient oxygen, which can definitely impede this vital process. The breakdown of elemental sul-phur is a slow process even under ideal conditions.The primary minerals—calcium, sulphur, manga-

nese, magnesium, copper, iron, boron and zinc—are in general all players in the quest for superior taste. Finding a plant nutrient that provides these in sul-phate form can be a real game changer if you are interested in maximising organoleptic (taste) quality and plant health while keeping the process of growing as simple as possible. Indoor grows are often done in potting soils—while rich in organic matter, these soils also exhibit rapid draining characteristics and this can make them susceptible to sulphur deficiency. Keeping your soil microbes alive and healthy is one way to help this organic matter convert to sulphates. Complete soil tests can give you an idea of the amount of sulphur that is available for your plants, but it is still generally difficult to determine how much additional sulphur is needed—regular addi-tions of mineral sulphates can be another way to keep ahead of this issue. Find and use a plant nutrient formula that pro-vides a complete spectrum of nutrients, including micronutrients—if you can also find one that uses the sulphate form of the micronutri-ents, you will be on your way to a better-tasting crop.

“IT SOUNDS ODD, bUT IF YOU WANT REAllY SWEET vEGGIES YOU’ll HAvE TO MAkE SURE THEY’RE GETTING ENOUGH SUlFUR IN THEIR DIET!”


ReverseOsmosis

How to Get tHe Most out of Your ro sYsteM

Pure water is as iMPortant for Your Plants as it is

for You—find out How to use a reverse osMosis

filter to Get tHe Most out of Your Garden and

learn How to extend tHe life of Your filter

MeMbranes at tHe saMe tiMe…

bY Jennifer CaseY


Reverse osmosis isn’t a new idea in the world of hydroponic gardening—pure water is an integral part of any hydroponic system and most growers are aware of the need for water that’s free of contaminants. If you’re new to hydro-ponics or you have questions about water puri-fication, though, then read on for a complete breakdown of reverse osmosis in layman’s terms.First, let’s take a minute to examine why we

need pure water. Since ‘hydroponics’ means growing plants in water without the use of soil, then it makes sense that the quality of the water you employ should be good. Pure water is also an integral part of soil gardening, so chemicals and other contaminants detrimental to the health of your plants whether you grow hydroponically or traditionally. The water you give your plants should be the best you can make it. I say ‘make it’ because you can control the contaminants in your water—you don’t have to be stuck with that chemical tap flow from the municipality or the sludge in your well.The nutrient feed formula you give your plants

is based on a measure of parts per million, which indicates how

many parts of nutrients there

are per mil-lion parts of water—we’ll

refer to this measurement

as ‘ppm’ from here on. When

your water comes out of the tap it already has a ppm measurement that must be accounted for before adding nutrients. This means that if you already have 300 ppm water you’ll have to decrease the nutrients you administer by that number to avoid overload-ing your plants. This is a prob-lem, though—because now

your plants are getting fewer nutrients because of the

non-nutritious crap that is present in your water

source. The stuff pres-ent in your water is

also often not only non-nutritious,

but might actu-ally be toxic to

your plants.

“THE STUFF pRESENT IN YOUR WATER IS AlSO OFTEN NOT ONlY NON-NUTRITIOUS, bUT MIGHT ACTUAllY bE TOXIC TO YOUR plANTS.”


http://www.smartpots.com

reverse osmosis

Calcium and magnesium—minerals found in almost all water—are important nutrients for both plants and the human body. The calcium and magnesium found naturally in water, however, is present in the form of large blocky particles that bind against the roots of your plants and can cause nutrient lockout—basically, the particles crowd up against the roots and don’t allow any of the good stuff to get through. While this sounds dramatic, it’s not even the worst news about your water supply—chlorine or chloramines are also generally added to your water by your local municipality in order to kill bacte-ria and render the water safe for drinking. Unfortunately, these substances are great at killing plants as well and are the

reason plants like algae don’t grow in swimming pools and hot tubs. You’d probably never consider using pool water for your plants, but city water straight from the tap is really just a milder version of the same stuff!Although some wells are ‘shocked’ with chlorine, gener-

ally well water users don’t have to worry as much about chlorine or chloramines—but calcium and magnesium are often found in much higher levels in well water. Additionally, contaminants such as cadmium, arsenic, boron, manganese, hydrogen sulfide (for that just-peeled egg aroma) and iron can be present in levels that are not only toxic to plants, but to the human body as well. Some of these substances—

though more common to wells—are found in your tap

water too, as municipalities don’t have the means to

remove them.

“THE CAlCIUM AND MAGNESIUM FOUND NATURAllY IN WATER...IS pRESENT IN THE FORM OF lARGE blOCkY pARTIClES THAT bIND AGAINST THE ROOTS OF YOUR plANTS AND CAN CAUSE NUTRIENT lOCkOUT—bASICAllY, THE pARTIClES CROWD Up AGAINST THE ROOTS AND DON’T AllOW ANY OF THE GOOD STUFF TO GET THROUGH.”

Now that I have you good and worried, let’s talk about how an

RO system can rid your water of these nasty contaminants so you can have a healthy garden. Water purifiers for your garden come in two types: dechlorinators and reverse osmo-

sis systems. The difference is an extra filtration step in the RO systems. Dechlorinators employ two steps of filtration, the first being a sediment filter that traps large particles and keeps them from causing the next step/filter from getting clogged up. Sediment filters can usu-ally be rinsed and reused regularly before their annual replacement. The next step in

filtration is the carbon filter, which removes chlorine from the water—if your municipality

uses chloramines, you’ll want to use a special KDF carbon filter. Chloramine is a chlorine molecule bonded with an ammonia molecule. This chemical is used in place of chlorine because it lasts longer in the water and won’t bubble out and evaporate like chlorine will. Good for water treatment, but bad for your plants! For simple dechlorinators this is where it ends—chlorine, chloramines and sediment are removed and water is improved. Ppm will not be greatly affected. If your water was under 150 ppm out of the tap, this might be enough filtration for your plants. However, if your ppm if higher than 150, if you have any funky contaminants in your water or if you simply want the purest water for your garden, an RO system is what you need.This is where the membrane comes in. In RO, a membrane

looks like a plastic cylinder with a hole in either end. It’s called a membrane because the process of osmosis is actually


the diffusion of water through a membrane, which is a barrier with small openings—or pores—that only lets certain things through. The cell walls of organisms (like humans and plants) are membranes and allow certain substances through but lock others out. Our skin is a membrane that lets some things in but keeps things like bacteria out.An RO membrane works the same way—it’s

composed of a super-thin sheet of polymer punctured with tiny holes. By tiny I mean 1/1,000th of a micron, the perfect size for a water molecule to pass through. The sheet of polymer is then rolled up to create layer after layer. When the water is directed into the membrane, it has to diffuse through all these layers, meaning every single water molecule of purified water has to go through hundreds of these tiny open-ings. It’s like an exclusive night club—the bouncer only lets the right kind of molecules past the velvet rope. If you have used an RO system, you might have been surprised that the water didn’t come out immediately and with as much volume as it went in. Well, now you know why—it’s been waiting in line to get in to the club! It takes time for the good water to pass through the membrane molecule by molecule and the rest passes out of the membrane as waste water.People new to the process of RO are often surprised by the

waste water factor; that is, the amount of unpurified water that remains for each measure of pure water. Most systems are built to support a ratio of three parts waste water to one


part pure water—they are built this way because this ratio best supports the life of the membrane. Bear with me while I extend the nightclub metaphor—some molecules just don’t make it into the club. Calcium, magnesium and various other contaminants won’t get past the bouncer. This also helps explain why so much waste water is necessary. It’d be nice if

these contaminants simply left, but

they’re stub-born and kind of belligerent

and they need to be forced to

leave. The bouncer turns them away at the door, but then they hang around causing trouble, so good water molecules have to wash them away to make them go. The contaminants are stubborn and want to hang around the door fighting with the bouncer. The more waste water there is, the easier it is on your membrane (bouncer). Should you choose to use a flow restrictor to reduce your waste water there won’t be as much waste water to help wash those contaminants away and you may decrease the lifespan of your membrane.Damage to your membrane can happen in one of two ways:

it can become either ‘fouled’ or ‘corroded.’ When contami-nants build up in the membrane they won’t allow any other molecules through those tiny pores—effectively shutting down the club—or they might actually smash right through the opening, enlarging it and rendering it an inef-fective barrier. Basically, they take out the bouncer and then anything can get in. In the former case, the membrane becomes clogged up—this is called fouling or saturating the membrane—and it will cause a dramatic decrease in your flow rate. Where there was a healthy stream there will only be a trickle, because those water molecules can’t get through. Should you neglect to change your carbon prefilter, you will have the opposite problem—as the chlo-rine that is now getting through your tired carbon filter will enlarge the openings and ‘corrode’ the membrane. Now

the flow rate will actually increase, which seems great—until a ppm reading reveals that your rejection rate has decreased and you are no longer get-ting clean water. Either of these two things might have happened when it’s time to change your membrane, but restricting your waste water might mean that they have hap-pened sooner rather than later because you are concentrat-ing the water and you might be going through membranes a bit more quickly than before. If saving water is of primary importance this could be a may be a good trade, but indi-vidual needs vary from person to person.When considering how to best extend the life of your

membrane, it’s good to recognize that this fouling/corrod-ing issue also depends on what’s actually in your water. If your water is very high in chlorine or chloramines, corrod-ing will be the main issue. If your water has iron or very high mineral content, then fouling will occur. In both cases, proper prefiltration can help preserve your membranes. Finding out what’s in the water by getting a water test or checking with your local water treatment center will help you to choose the right prefilter, such as a KDF —or, in the presence of iron, a philox filter. If you have hard water, a water softener is also an excellent way to preserve your membranes. It works by exchanging hardness (minerals) for salt, which doesn’t sound too plant-friendly—but salt is actually the ideal contaminant for RO to remove. It doesn’t get in the club but takes the rejection politely, leaving your membrane intact and still able to perform its job.

It’s a good idea to explore what’s in your water. Start by finding the website of your local municipality or by

doing an Internet search of your area and its water content. Your local hydro store is also an excel-

lent resource—the employees there know all about what’s in the local water and can guide you to the product that will work best for you. And when you do get your RO system, be sure to change those prefilters to protect your membrane and save money. Once you start using pure water in your garden, the differ-ence will amaze you!

“IF YOU HAvE HARD WATER, A WATER SOFTENER IS AlSO AN EXCEllENT WAY TO pRESERvE YOUR MEMbRANES.”

reverse osmosis


http://www.methodseven.com

ExplainEdAmino AcidsAmino acids are the building blocks of proteins and without these tiny organic compounds, life as we know it could not exist. Here’s how it all works…

A plant’s metabolism is a combina-tion of complex physical and chemi-cal events, including photosynthesis, respiration and the degradation and synthesis of organic compounds. Photosynthesis is the driving force that produces the substrates for respiration and the organic compounds used as the foundation for the biosynthesis of nucleic acids, amino acids, proteins, carbohydrates, lipids and organic acids. When a plant is provided with optimal environmental and nutritional condi-tions, it produces its own amino acids, which serve as the building blocks of all proteins. Amino acids are organic compounds with an amino (-NH2) and a carboxylic acid group (-COOH), and they are required for plant functions throughout the plant’s entire life cycle.

Amino acids are used for the syn-thesis of cellular molecules including chlorophyll, enzymes, proteins and vitamins. In other words, amino acids are required for virtually every plant function and life on earth would not exist without them. Amino acids play a vital role at the beginning of a plant’s life. During the germination process, an embryo will consume amino acids derived from proteins stored in the endosperm. Amino acids affect the plant’s metabolism in many ways. Amino acids are directly linked to vital plant functions, including the synthe-sis of structural proteins, contributing to the formation of phytohormones (auxins, ethylene, polyamines, etc.) and the regulation of water balance (particularly in times of stress). Amino

acids can also act as chelators of the essential nutrients required for normal plant development. So, if plants produce their own

amino acids, why do horticulturists supplement additional amino acids? Plants grown in perfect conditions will create enough amino acids on their own to function properly; however, most plants are not grown in perfect conditions. When a plant is grown in less than desirable conditions, the amount of amino acids created can be hindered, which will result in slowed growth and reduced yields. In extreme cases, plants can actually break down structural proteins in order to obtain the essential amino acids. This activ-ity requires a lot of energy that would otherwise be used to promote more

by Eric Hopper


growth or root stimulation. All this causes less than desirable results for the grower. By supplementing an amino acid formula, the grower can ensure their plants are receiving an adequate amount of amino acids—to which the benefits are multifaceted. Even in a room with a consistent

environment and steady plant growth there are benefits to supplementing amino acids. The main advantage is heightened efficiency in terms of plant energy. The fewer amino acids a plant has to produce, the more energy it can redirect into growth. There is also an increase in the speed of growth because the supplemented amino acids are readily available. This allows the plant’s metabolism to continually func-tion at high speed (there’s no having to wait for the plant to synthesis its own amino acids). Additional amino acids also give extra protection against

pathogens because a plant’s immune system’s functions are reliant on amino acids. With readily available amino acids, the plant’s immune system can work full tilt continuously.

Types of amino acidsThere are two types of amino acids: D-form and L-form. The D-form amino acids are larger molecules that cannot be used by plants. This is why any amino acid formula designed for horticul-tural use should be comprised mostly, if not entirely, of L-form amino acids. L-form amino acids, in the free form or in formation with small peptides, can be absorbed and used by plants. One process used by fertiliser companies to extract amino acids is the use of strongly acidic or alkaline solutions to extract the amino acids. Another method used to extract amino acids is an enzymatic hydrolysis extraction process. Whether you’re a novice or profes-

sional grower, the benefits of amino acid supplementation can be reaped by all. Some growers use them to optimise their already bountiful gardens, while others utilise them as a safeguard to stress and pathogens. Either way, as we learn more about the microscopic world and how it directly influences our garden’s performance, amino acid supplementation’s role will be signifi-cant in the future of organic nutrient composition and plant nutrition.


Before beating a quick path to the closest beach, lake or apartment-complex pool, it’s become second nature to fill a bag with the essentials: bottled water, a steamy novel, floaties for the kids and sun block. However, even the most organized protected person can get hit with sunburn. Fortunately, there’s a cheap, completely natural salve close at hand…

Beat the Burn With Nature’sNatural Nurse

Aloe: By HeatHer BrautmaN

Amazing


Aloe vera—or simply “aloe”—is thought to have first sprouted seed in northern Africa, but has furthered its roots around the globe to India, Central America, Australia, the Caribbean and the southern United States. According to the Arizona Cooperative Extension, aloe vera has been used medicinally for 6,000 years. The University of Maryland Medical Center states that aloe was one of the most frequently used prescrip-tions during the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s long since moved out from behind the pharmacy counter and onto the shelves (chances are it’s also freely propagating in a garden near you).

How it worksEven if you’ve never broken off a leaf and spread the thin, viscous, clear liquid over a recent burn, you’re probably aware that the “lifeblood” of an aloe vera plant can cool and heal burns, blisters, scratches and scrapes.Aloe is 99% water, and the rest is made up of the important

parts that directly affect human healing. Within that remain-ing 1%, there are polysaccharides (which help skin grow) and glycoproteins (which suppress pain and inflammation, kick-start the healing process). Union County College offers two ways you can take advan-

tage of aloe vera’s beneficial sap. First, you can try going old school by simply breaking off a leaf and let the liquid run across the burn or itchy area. Or you can boil up something more potent by brewing up the plant’s dried sap and use it—after cooling the liquid—as a wash-out for wounds.

aloe is 99% waTer, and The resT is made up of The imporTanT parTs ThaT direcTly

affecT human healing.”


http://www.lightrail3.com


Of course, aloe is so prevalent these days that it’s possible to completely skip the homegrown route entirely—whether it’s because you have a black thumb or simply prefer to let someone else do the work. You can find aloe vera extract everywhere. A short trip to a drugstore, pharmacy or holistic health store will reveal aloe vera in lotion, tincture, face wash, ointment and other products.

PagiNg Dr. aloeWhile some non-believers could toss claims about aloe’s “super powers” as bunk, holistic practitio-ners have touted its benefits for ailments such as diabetes, radiation-related mucositis, epilepsy and amenorrhea. Aloe, as mentioned above, is proven to work on burns. (The latter is according to Wilkes University, where practitioners cited aloe’s “beneficial effects for treating epidermal and superficial disorders and wounds”).University of Maryland cites some interesting

statistics about use of aloe on minor burns: In one study, burns that were dressed with aloe healed completely in less than 16 days, compared to the 19-day recovery period of those treated with silver sulfadiazine (the traditional medication prescribed by physicians). Maryland also noted that aloe’s benefits extend to other ailments, as it aided sufferers of genital herpes and pso-riasis with anti-inflammatory effects that bested hydrocortisone cream.

grow your owNAloe vera could be called “easy vera,” as it is one of the most low-maintenance plants you’ll shepherd through your garden. Aloe vera plants require very little water and thrive best in direct sunlight. This plant doesn’t ask for much. A simple potting

mix with perlite, grit or sand will serve as a fine home. The Arizona Cooperative Extension notes that even cactus mix soil will work for the aloe vera plant. Make sure the plant’s new “home” has a drainage hole and only water when the soil is dry. Also, while these plants don’t quite enjoy “chilling out,” you can easily move them in from the frost and back out when the sun begins to blaze again.Aloe vera plants make a lush addition to your

garden, even if you don’t plan to break off a leaf or two. When the plants mature, you’ll have uniform light green color with fronds that extend up to 1.21 m in length. Just be careful with the soft, but prickly spines around the edges. Invest in your aloe plants and they’ll reward you with a stalk bearing cylindrical yellow flowers in a rosette shape.If you do plan to use your aloe plant for heal-

ing purposes, don’t worry that breaking off a leaf will destroy the plant or cause necrosis to set in.

burns ThaT were dressed wiTh aloe healed compleTely in less Than

16 days, compared To The 19-day recovery period of Those TreaTed wiTh silver sulfadiazine.”

AMAzING AlOE

Stem wounds and broken roots heal themselves (most successfully under shady conditions). When you’re ready to buy your

seedlings or cuttings, you’ll find them online through a variety of sellers, from massive mass merchandisers to specialty succulent shops. You can also venture out and buy from local nurseries, where you might even get advice on planting and supporting your new in-house first aid. The biggest key to avoiding disap-pointment (i.e., discovering something you’ve planted is not what you planned on) is to do your research. Buy from trusted vendors, who have feedback and encouraging information on their web-sites. Pop into your nearby horticultural shop and ask who they buy from or who they’d recommend. Then get growing!

limitatioNs aND coNsiDeratioNsHolistic practitioners and DIY-ers alike might both strongly advise you try to take the homegrown route as much as possible, but even a strong con-tender such as aloe has its limitations.

Influential health affiliated organiza-tions such as the University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey state that pregnant women should not take aloe vera in pill format. Women who are looking to conceive, or are unsure whether they are currently pregnant, should stay away too and find other ways to cool their burns. The University of Colorado Denver

also warns a larger group of people against the use of aloe vera in pill format—which can serve as a stimulant laxative—including people suffering from chronic constipation, inflam-matory intestinal diseases and kidney disease. UC Denver also echoes the University of Medicine and Dentistry’s warning against pregnant women taking aloe vera supplements, and also adds children under 10 years old to the warning list. UC Denver also warns that people allergic to garlic, tulips and onions might also find themselves aller-gic to aloe vera, which is considered to be in the same Lillaceae plant family.Also, keep in mind that aloe’s

positive health benefits only work for

superficial burns. More intense burns from hot stove coils or boiling water, and chemically induced blisters should be treated by medical professionals immediately. In some cases, there’s just no plant-based option for treating something so severe, especially when delaying care could result in life-threat-ening infection, blood loss or improper healing. The University of Maryland also notes that while aloe has shown to reduce recovery time by up to nine days for some burns, it should never be applied to an open wound. MY

when you’re ready To buy your seedlings or

cuTTings, you’ll find Them online Through a varieTy of sellers, from massive mass merchandisers To specialTy

succulenT shops.”


PhotonsThe Secret to Light

Speed Growthby Grubbycup

Plants cannot grow without light, and the amount of light reaching your plants greatly affects how well they grow. Here, Grubbycup takes you through some of the math that

will help determine if your plants are getting enough…

Photons are the tiny particle(ish) waves of energy that are more commonly referred to as a group with the term “light.” Plants use photons, when they’re in usable wavelengths, in order to first split the hydrogen from the oxygen in water and then combine the freed hydrogen with carbon dioxide to create the sugar glucose needed for growth. This process is known as photosynthesis.

One common unit of measurement for light strength—or, intensity—is lux (lx). A lux is the amount of light given off by one candle at a distance of 1 m spread over a square with 1-m sides. Depending on location, direct outdoor sunlight is around 100,000 lx, and many full-sun garden plants need at least 25,000 to 50,000 lx to do well.



All other things being equal, a properly lit plant will perform better than an under lit plant will. One way to determine how much light is reaching your plants is to mea-sure it. Inexpensive light meters can provide valuable information about a garden, especially indoor gardens. A light meter held at the tops of the plants can determine how much light they are receiving. If measurements are taken in exactly the same place each time, records can be kept to show how much the lamp is degrading over time, or how much difference a new bulb makes.For example, readings taken from a 400 W lamp with a dirty lens and an

old bulb were 25.6 klx (kilolux) at 0.30 m away. By cleaning the lens, the reading improved to 30 klx; replacing the year-old bulb brought the lux up to 39.2 klx. That’s an overall improvement of 13.6 klx—a fair improvement that illustrates the importance of proper lighting maintenance.Now for the bad news: even though at 0.3 m the lamp now gives off 39.2

klx, at 0.6 m that falls to 16.4 klx. Distance is extremely important in indoor gardening because the amount of light that hits the plants drops off as an inverse square to the distance. At 0.6 m the lux is reduced to approxi-mately one-quarter. (The averages of the actual readings I took were 41.4 klx at 0.3 m and 13.3 klx at 0.6 m, which is only 3 lx off from the 10.3 klx I expected from using the calculation—this was in part due to the light reflector.) Even worse, at 0.9 m is reduced to 1/9th. Again, the actual read-ings taken at 0.9 m (5.0 klx) were close to the theoretical (4.6 klx).Compare the results taken from both a 400 W lamp

and a 1,000 W lamp (in klx):

0.3 m 0.6 m. 0.9 m

400 W 39.2 16.4 5.3

1,000 W 100 31.5 15.6

“ All OTHER THINGS bEING EqUAl, A pROpERlY lIT plANT WIll pERFORM bETTER THAN AN UNDER lIT plANT WIll.”

http://www.potzsystems.co.uk


photons

Notice that a 400 W light at 0.3 m is comparable to a 1,000 W lamp at 0.6 m away (although for a smaller area). This is one reason why air-cooled and vented hoods that allow for the fixture to be placed closer to the plants can make a large difference. Naked bulb fixtures generally have to be placed further away from the plants because of the heat they emit, and plants, therefore, suffer more from the distance drawback. However, if a 1,000 W light runs cool enough to be within a 0.3 m or so of the plant, the tops of the plants will be exposed to near outdoor levels.Light moves in a straight line unless acted upon by

an outside force. Gravity can bend it, but garden-ers are more interested with light’s ability to bounce (reflect). Indoor gardeners often use reflective mate-rials on garden walls to reflect escaping light back to the garden. Lamp hoods are constructed to reflect light from the tops and sides of the bulb into the garden, hopefully without adding too much distance to the path. Indoor light that is reflected travels a further distance than light that strikes directly, and, as discussed earlier, distance diminishes intensity. Still, reflectivity is helpful as it helps to recover light that otherwise would be lost or would have to travel even further to be reflected. This exponential falling of light with distance is one

of the most important differences between indoor and outdoor light. Outside, the intensity of the light at ground level and the light a few metres higher is negligible due to the intensities and distances involved with natural sunlight—for example, meter

readings showed 100.6 klx at both ground level and at 0.9 m above. The cheap, plentiful light radi-ated by the sun is the most cost-effective light source (remember, greenhouses can extend the growing season for many areas).

Light meters can help illustrate the intensity of avail-able light in various parts of the garden and can help with ensuring proper lighting levels. Nonetheless, it is in the best interest of indoor gardeners to understand at least some of the science behind lighting. Light is one of the most expensive requirements to fulfil in an indoor garden, so use it wisely and well. MY

Speaking of light, hoods and reflectivity, you can take a lamp hood out into the sun and run it “backward” to make a tasty, solar-powered treat. Here’s how: Gather up a glass lens light hood, a cardboard box big enough for the hood to fit in, some aluminium foil, wide tape, cardboard, an oven thermometer, a few aluminium cookie sheets, cupcake tins (preferably dark coloured) and cupcake batter.To prepare the hood, remove the bulb and socket. Use foil

to seal the vent openings. Place it lens-side up into the card-board box, and pack cardboard around the space between the hood and the box as insulation. Attach the cookie sheets to the sides like the petals to a flower, at an angle of about 15.56 to 19.44ºC. Point the box directly at the midmorning sun, tipping as needed, and blocking it into place. Use the thermometer to track the internal temperature. Aiming and adjusting the “oven” takes a bit of practice, and must be done every hour or so. However, with good sun, the internal temperature should rise to 93.33ºC or better (under ideal conditions, temperatures can reach 148.89ºC, so make sure all materials exposed to heat are safe at those temperatures).Put the batter in the cupcake tins, and place it into the

hood. Depending on conditions and the size of the cupcakes (smaller is better), there should be solar-cooked cupcakes ready to eat in an hour or two (just don’t forget to adjust the box to keep it pointed at the sun). Many foods can be cooked in this fashion, which is similar to a slow cooker, and can be cooked for as long as the sun heats the box. Noon to early afternoon are the best cooking times. For food safety, monitor to ensure the temperature does not drop and stay below 71.11ºC while cooking.The principle is simple and similar to that behind a green-

house. UV radiation passes through the glass to the space inside, where it becomes shifted and partially trapped as infrared (heat). As long as energy from the sun is put into the box faster than it escapes (which is the function of the cardboard insulation), a net gain will result and the tempera-

ture of the interior of the box will rise.

Solar-Cooked Cupcakes

“ NAkED bUlb FIXTURES GENERAllY HAvE TO bE plACED FURTHER AWAY FROM THE plANTS bECAUSE OF THE HEAT THEY EMIT, AND plANTS THEREFORE SUFFER MORE FROM THE DISTANCE DRAWbACk.”

http://www.maxibright.com

Are

always orgAnic

PESTiciDES

SAfEr?by Bill DeBoer

organic is an often misunderstood term.

here’s Bill deBoer to help clear a few

things up.


“I don’t use chemicals, I grow organically!” This is a reoc-curring message continuously articulated by a certain sect of organic growers or consumers of organic products. It also shows that there is a preponderance of misinformation and a lack of understanding. Everything is a chemical, includ-ing those organics derived from natural origins. What these people are trying to say is that they choose a more natural choice when growing organically (as opposed to the nega-tively perceived synthetic counterpart). However, the point of this article is not to draw negative criticism toward organ-ics, but rather address misconceptions in an effort to help you make sounder, more-informed decisions. So, whether you are grounded in either organics or synthetics, you need to internalise the following concepts. (Note: when I use the term organic in the article, I am referring to chemicals derived from natural origins.)Are organics always safer than synthetics? No. People have

bought into the premise that anything natural is safer. The natural state of a chemical inherently does not dictate safety. For example, imagine organically growing the castor plant (Ricinus communis). From this you could exact a very powerful compound—ricin—which is highly toxic to mammals. While this example is meant to be impractical, the concept is not: natural chemicals can be just as deadly as synthetic ones. Have you ever looked at the chemical compounds found in, or the LD50 (lethal dose inducing mortality in 50% of test population) value of, organic pesticides? Remember, toxicity is a function of the exposure time as well as the dose/concentration. Simple chemicals that are regarded as harmless can be very toxic if the concentration is high or the exposure time is long—for example, water is toxic if consump-tion continuously exceeds 1.5 L per hour.Safety is at the forefront for organic growers and

consumers of organic products, but have you ever looked at the signal word (i.e. caution, warning or danger) on the chemical label? By human nature, we will believe something without questioning the validity if enough people say it is true. There is a reason marketing people can receive hefty salaries: thanks to them, safety has become unanimous with organics. Funny, since federal regulation uses the same wording for organic pesticides as they do synthetics.It is important to note that organics generally have a signifi-

cant advantage to synthetic counterparts. The half-life, or breakdown, of organic compounds tends to be on average quicker than synthetic chemicals, whose half-life can be long and breakdown is slow (thus the persistence in the environ-ment is longer). However, while organic pesticides can break-down quickly, their effect is often short lived and frequent applications are more necessary in comparison to synthetic pesticides. Thus, an individual must always understand the type of chemical, application, frequency, concentration and relative persistence. After all, at face value, what appears to be more toxic: compound A applied once or compound B applied six times in the same time span? Obviously, more information is needed.

The naTuralsTaTe of a chemical

inherenTly doesnoT dicTaTe

safeTy.”


ARE ORGANIC pESTICIDES AlWAYS SAFER?

Another critical consideration is dismissing linear thought processes. Just because a compound is organic and targets one type of pests, doesn’t mean it will not cause alternative problems. For instance rotenone, a very effective organic pes-ticide for certain beetles and caterpillars is also highly toxic to aquatic life. Therefore, you must avoid spraying around any body of water. Another example is nicotine, which causes paralysis to pest insects and is readily absorbed by the skin of mammals—and it is quite toxic! Lastly, pyrethrins are highly effective at eradicating a wide range of pests, but they are also toxic to helpful pollinators like honeybees. As growers and gardeners, we cannot think our actions are singular or linear. When using both synthetic and organic chemicals, our actions have direct and sometimes irreversible consequences. Always research the active ingredient prior to use, as well as proper protective equipment, relative toxicity and susceptible population (which can range from helpful insects to people).A study published in 2006 proposed an interesting hypoth-

esis that microbial (bacterial and fungal) contamination, not pesticide residue, is of larger concern to public health. It begs the question: are organically raised fruits and vegetables less likely or more likely to have microbial growth due to pesticide practices? I don’t have the answer, but it is an intriguing point nonetheless. Another important component to this review was the difference in detection of synthetic and organic pesticide residue. A 10-year trend line by Baker et al. showed a significant increase in the detec-tion of synthetic pesticide residue relative to that of organic pesti-cide. One of the main points was organically treated fruits and vegetables still had detectable pesticide (albeit organic) residue. Ultimately, there is not enough

information to make definitive statements on overall safety, which is compounded by the fact that sampling methods are not always accurate. However, it does show we cannot think of most organic produce as “chemical-free.”In conclusion, practices involving chemicals that have a low

environmental persistence are effective toward the target pest and have a low risk factor towards the consumer should be our future goal. If human and environmental health is the chief concern for organic growers, then knowledge is the strongest ally. I have been and will always be an advocate for the safest and healthiest option of growing produce. This article should not be viewed as anti-organic, but rather as pro-education. Consumers should have all the facts so they can make an informed decision. Do your research and find more information on a mode of action and relative toxicity of organic pesticides. If you remember nothing of this article, retain these points

to ponder:•Everythingisachemicalandeverythingcanbetoxicifthe

right dose or exposure time is met.•Readthelabel,andaskquestionswhenyouareunsure.

•Organicdoesnotequatetosafejustassyn-thetic doesn’t represent unsafe.

•Actionshaveconsequencesandapplication of pesticides, even

organic ones, can have a negative impact on organ-

isms from fish to bees to humans.•Thereareprosand

cons that an individual must weigh when select-ing a pesticide, organic or synthetic (i.e. cost, effectiveness, relative toxicity, etc).

The half-life, or breakdown, of organic

compounds tends to be on average quicker than synthetic chemicals, whose half-life can be long and breakdown is slow

(thus the persistence in the environment is longer).”

66 Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

an individual musT always undersTand

The Type of chemical, applicaTion, frequency,

concenTraTion and relaTive persisTence.”

Literature cited:Baker, P.B., Benbrook, C.M., Groth, E., 3rd,

and Benbrook, K. L. (2002). Pesticide Residue in Conventional, Integrated Pest Management (IPM-Grown and Organic Foods: Insights from Three US Data Sets. Food Addit. Contam., 19, 427-446.

Grubinger, V. Pesticides for Organic Growers. Integrated Pest Management. Retrieved from http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/general/htms/orgpest.htm

Oregon State Master Gardener Program. (Unknown date). Least Toxic and Organic Pesticides for Gardeners. Retrieved from http://extension.oregonstate.edu/lincoln/sites/default/files/Least_Toxic_Pesticiddes_for_Gardeners.pdf

MacMillan, Annie. (Unknown date). Do Organic Pesticides Pose Any Hazards to Growers? [PDF Presentation] Retrieved from http://extension.unh.edu/Agric/AGPMP/documents/macmil-lan2.pdf

Magkos, F., Arvaniti, F., and Zampelas, A. (2006). Organic Food: More Safety or Just Peace of Mind? A Crical Review of the Literature. Critical Review in Food Science and Nutrition, 46, 23-56. http://spot.colorado.edu/~carpenh/Magkos.pdf



by Heather Rhoades

How to Make an

Once thought to be a finicky and tricky plant to grow at home, many people are discovering that some kinds of orchids are very easy to grow and care for. This might be true, but many people still wonder how to make an orchid bloom. Without the flower, the orchid is missing the ele-ment that makes these plants so desirable. If you are wondering how to make your orchid bloom, keep reading for some tips.

LightFor most houseplant orchids, the lack of light is the number-one reason the orchid won’t flower. Orchids are deceptive because the leaves of the plant can look healthy and green, while the orchid is getting too little light to truly thrive.If you are trying to make an orchid rebloom, the first thing to try is

moving the plant to a brighter location. The best place to put an orchid is in a south- or east-facing window. Also, make sure the leaves are free of dust and dirt. Even a thin layer of dust can block the light. The same goes for the windows. Frequently clean the win-dows that provide light to your orchids.When you move your orchid to a

brighter location, you might notice that the leaves become a lighter green. This is normal. Orchids that are getting enough light will have light or medium green leaves.

While all orchids need light, most cannot tolerate direct sunlight. Place them near windows so they can get as much light as possible, but do not place them in the direct line of the sun’s rays.

TemperatureDifferent kinds of orchids have different temperature needs. In order for an orchid to rebloom, it must be in the correct temperature range for its variety. Most houseplant orchids are Cattleya, Oncidium, Paphiopedilum or Phalaenopsi. Their temperature requirements are as follows:Cattleya – Cattleya orchids need daytime temperatures of 21 to 29°C

during the day and 13 to 18°C at night in order to rebloom.Oncidium – Oncidium orchids will rebloom if the temperatures during

the day are 27 to 32°C and the nighttime temperatures are 13 to 16°C.Paphiopedilum – In order to flower, Paphiopedilum orchids typically

need temperatures of 21 to 27°C during the day and 10 to 16°C at night. These kinds of orchids that have variegated leaves will prefer that these temperatures be about two to three degrees warmer.Phalaenopsis – Phalaenopsis orchids prefer temperatures of 21 to 29°C

during the day and 16 to 21°C at night in order to produce flowers.

Additional tipsWhile light and temperature are crucial to making an orchid rebloom, it is also essential that your orchid gets the appropriate general care for its variety. Humidity, water and fertiliser are all important. MY

(Source: gardeningknowhow.com)

Orchid Bloom

DO YOU KNOW?

1.

9.

2.3.4. 5.

6.

10.

7.8.

Don’t worry about breaking off pieces of aloe; stem wounds and broken roots heal themselves (most successfully under shady conditions).

The half-life, or breakdown, of organic compounds tends to be on average quicker than synthetic chemicals.

Damage to your RO membrane can happen in one of two ways: it can become either fouled, which dramatically decreases flow rate due to blockage, or corroded, which increases flow rate because the holes in the membrane are enlarged.

To plant a good container, the compost has to be free draining yet able to hold on to moisture and nutrients. The compost also should have an air filled porosity of 20%.

Aloe is 99% water, and within the remaining 1% are polysaccharides (which help skin grow) and glycoproteins (which suppress pain and inflam-

mation, and kick-start the healing process).

While wells generally don’t contain any chlorine or chloramines, they do contain higher levels of calcium and magnesium, as well as contaminants like cadmium, arsenic, boron, manganese, hydrogen sulphide (for that just-peeled egg aroma) and iron.

Distance is extremely important in indoor gardening because the amount of light that hits the plants drops off as an inverse square to the distance.

Light moves in a straight line unless acted upon by an outside force. Gravity can bend it, but gardeners are more interested with light’s ability to reflect.

Amino acids are directly linked to vital plant functions, including the synthesis of structural proteins, contributing to the formation of phytohormones and the regulation of water balance (particularly in times of stress).

Amino acids are organic compounds with an amino (-NH2) and a carboxylic acid group (-COOH).


InduSTRy’S LATEST

CleanLightThe new CleanLight is the chemical-free way of dealing with problems of fungi, bacteria and

viruses on your plants. The CleanLight is a hand-held ultraviolet

light designed specifically to eliminate these po-tential disasters for the grower. The unit is easy to use and

highly effective. Simply hold the unit for up to five seconds maximum on one spot at a distance of 10 cm and the ultraviolet rays do the rest. As the CleanLight works using UV, there is no chemical residue left on the plants, improving crop quality. It is also a great advantage that the pathogens concerned cannot develop a resistance to UV as they do with many chemical treatments. The unit comes complete with instructions, gloves and safety glasses, and gives you the opportunity to protect your much-loved plants. To learn more, visit growthtechnology.com

IoNIC PK Boost Goes from Strength to StrengthLaunched during 2012, Ionic PK Boost has grown to be one of the most popular boost products on the market. The unique 14:15 ratio delivers an elemental ratio of one phosphorus to two potassium, ensuring the quality of the final crop is of peak quality. This supplement when used with Ionic Bloom formulation or any other well-formulated bloom nutrient will supply the flowering, fruiting plants with accurate levels of these essential elements. IONIC PK Boost is available in five sizes from 300 ml up to 20 L. For more information, visit growthtechnology.com

Nanolux Digital BallastThe sleek new Nanolux Ballast is now available in the United Kingdom from Growth Technology. Available in both 400-W and 600-W versions, Nanolux sets a new standard of design for digital ballasts. For ease of use the ballasts have the option of three power settings (100% and dimmable settings of 75 and 50%). Switching between the settings is controlled by a unique soft start protection feature, which adjusts to a different setting over a 15 minute period, preventing damage to your lamp. The units have built-in protection circuits that will prevent damage caused by short circuit, circuit overheating or lamp failure. The protec-tive nature of the product means it will thermally cut out at 105°C and

restart when the unit has cooled to 55°C. When several Nanolux ballasts are used, each start

is separated by a 15-second safety window, lowering the initial am-

perage draw at the start of the lighting cycle. For more information, visit growthtechnology.com

10th Annual San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo just weeks Away

In just a few short weeks, Maximum Yield will be hosting the 10th Annual San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo—the biggest expo in our 2013 Grow Like a Pro tour. This highly anticipated expo, planned for July 27 to 28, 2013, will feature over 400 booths showcasing the newest products hitting the market. We’ve

also got some great information sessions planned and there will be great opportunities to network with industry experts at this event with over 13 hours of trade show time. Exhibitors are flying in from around the world to showcase and highlight the latest products and technolo-gies available in the indoor gardening market. Everyone is invited to attend and keep your eye on indoorgardenexpo.com for a free VIP ticket to the show and a full list of exhibitors who will be in attendance. Have additional questions? Simply call us at 1-250-729-2677.

Dutchpro Heads overseasSince Dutchpro went commer-cial, its award-winning products are successfully being sold in Europe while the production, international marketing and sales are still operated directly out of Amsterdam. Last year, Dutchpro opened a new factory for the inter-national market and due to the explosive and highly increased demand of its user-friendly product line, it is doubling the production capacity again. Explode and Take Root are best-selling products rapidly replacing competi-tors’ products (topshooters/bloomstims and rootstims) in being very price competitive and highly concentrated (dilution rate 1:1000). Early in 2012, the company incorporated Dutchpro UK Ltd. to keep a high level of customer service and support for its partner shops and it now dispatches its products in Europe straight from its own warehouses in The Nether-lands, Spain and the United Kingdom. Earlier in 2013, Dutchpro made its first appearance in the United States market. Its products are exclusively available through Texas Hydroponics and Organics in the state of Texas, with the other states being approached shortly.


yOu TEll uS

Tell us a little about how your company started. Global Hydro Limited and the original BudBox growroom launched in 2003 as a result of trying to balance limited space and unsuitable climates for growing high dependency and climate fragile plants. The answer, which seems so obvious now, was to negate potential adverse exterior climate conditions and to utilise unused interior space where the plant’s environmental require-ments—light, dark, heat and nutri-ents—could be synthesised and man-aged in just about every aspect.

Who are the people behind Global Hydro? Myself and William Hill are the owners and directors of Global Hydro

Limited and were solely instrumental in BudBox’s inception and launch. The team behind us ensures that Global Hydro and BudBox continues to develop and grow in a managed and sustainable way. William, originally from an IT and design background, owned and ran several successful companies before becoming involved in the hydroponics industry. He now lives in China looking after our manu-facturing, managing the factories and making sure that our quality control team is always on their toes, as well as being an integral part of the product development team. Myself, I have a horticultural background, working in commercial glass houses before going on to study horticulture at college for seven years. After spending 18 years

suited and booted, working in the pharmaceuticals industry through-out Europe, I decided enough was enough and went back to my roots to get involved in the hydroponics industry. After three years with my own retail business, myself and William got together and the BudBox was born.

What is your company’s philosophy? To constantly exceed customer expecta-tion in terms of performance, innova-tion, service and value for money!

Your BudBox growrooms are really sturdy. What are they made of and how long do they hold up? Raw materials have been meticulously selected and rigorously tested to ensure they deliver optimal performance and

Global hydro has been manufacturing the BudBox range of hydroponic equipment since 2003 with the simple belief that envi-ronment is everything. Jonathan Edwards, Global hydro managing director and CEO, discusses how the company has reached such great heights over the last 10 years.William HillJonathan Edwards


durability in terms of every conceivable requirement, most notably from a plant-life perspective. Heavyweight, lightproof canvasses along with anti-corrosive, rust resistant powder-coated steel poles held in situe by super strong, virtu-ally indestructible corner connectors ensure BudBox growrooms are more than fit for purpose. Our confidence in those factors mean we are able to offer a “no-quibble” 12-month guarantee on all BudBox components. The longevity of a BudBox growroom depends largely on how it is looked after. If looked after correctly, a BudBox will last indefinitely. As an example, we have an original BudBox, circa 2003, still working its magic in the office!

What type of growers benefit the most from using your hydroponic grow rooms? Do they come in a range of sizes?BudBox is manufactured in two inte-rior finishes, Pro-white and standard Mylar/Silver, and are available in a very comprehensive size range to suit every

conceivable interior grower, irrespec-tive of their level of expertise and space requirements. From the smallest of the hobby units (75 cm x 75 cm x 100 cm) for the keen amateur, to the mighty TITAN3 (300 cm x 300 cm x 200 cm) for the seriously minded horticulturist, there’s a BudBox for every eventuality.

Your Air Socks look intriguing. How do they work? BudBox AIRSOCK is an open-mesh fabric engineered with millions of micro-pores measuring less than six microns in diameter. The sock is simply fastened directly onto the inlet fan, thereby regulating air circu-lation and disturbance whilst at the same time offering superb protection against unwanted bugs, mites and other airborne pathogens. AIRSOCK is fully machine washable so it can be used over and over again to pro-tect your valuable vegetation.

looking for more informaTion on global

hydro? please visiT global-hydro.net or

call 44 (0) 1423 506 669

What advice can you give the beginner gardener just starting out? If you want to ensure a quality end product, don’t compromise on your choice of growroom, and above all, enjoy the whole experience from start to finish. Hydroponics is a rewarding and exciting hobby full of mind-blow-ing rewards. Opening your BudBox every morning to see the amazing growth and potential is nothing short of incredible; we love it.

Is there anything happening at the research and development stage you’re at liberty to tell us about? We are currently working on some new and very exciting projects. I wouldn’t like to go into too much detail at this point in time, but I can say that as this fantastic industry moves onwards and upwards and expands, we will be there with it. New products to be added to the BudBox range are scheduled for launch in autumn. Global Hydro Limited has always manufactured extremely high quality products with the emphasis firmly on quality and performance, rather than being constrained by price related format-ting. This strategy will not change! The new range of growroom equip-ment from BudBox will continue in this vein, offering the grower the best equipment and customer service at a competitive price.


TAlkInG ShOP

Prior to opening Hi9 The Hydroponic Company Ltd., Steven Hood, sharehold-er, had previously worked as a computer programmer, a personnel manager and a chemist until an accident at work one day put a halt to all of that. “Growing, however, has always been in my blood. I remember as a young lad going with my grandpa to help him on his garden allotment,” Steve shares. “My parents were also very keen gardeners; I learned a lot from watching them and recall my fascination at studying seeds germinate in experiments at primary school,” he adds.

Since those days, Steve has gained over 20 years of indoor growing experience. “I decided to invest in what I knew. The near-est hydroponic shop was at least 30 miles away, so there was clearly a gap in the mar-ket and it seemed appropriate to fill it,” he says about opening his own store.Before Hi9 opened, the search for

appropriate premises began and once a location had been found, the team set to work spending many hours preparing the space. They had walls to sort out, counters to build, shelving to arrange and a large floor space to paint. Mean-

while, they were also using their spare time to find suitable wholesalers and rummage through hydroponic cata-logues to locate the quality stock they wanted. The doors to Hi9 finally opened in November 2009.As with any business, the start-up years

were a struggle as the shop tried to build up a customer base and ascertain what products their customers required. The days before opening were particularly nerve-racking, as some of the pallet deliveries were late arriving. “It was rather stressful knowing the opening

Hi9 The Hydroponic Company in Cumbria officially opened up in 2009 and was initially ran by volunteers. Hi9 The Hydroponic Company quickly became a hit and hasn’t stopped growing since. Here’s more to this story...

Jamie, Hi9 director

From left to right, Lewis, Steve, Jamie and Shannon make up the Hi9 team.

Shannon tending to her plants


Company: Hi9 The Hydroponic Company Ltd.Owner: Steven HoodLocation: Unit 3, Rope Walk, Coach Rd., Whitehaven, Cumbria, CA28 7TEPhone: +44 (0) 7821 914646Motto:“Grow Sensibly with Hi9 The Hydroponic Company.”

was imminent and yet a lot of the stock was yet to arrive,” shares shop director, Shannon. “It finally came the evening before opening and so we spent that night in a heightened state of activity to say the least!” she adds. “The team pulled together and with hard work and dedication we began to move forward providing an efficient, helpful and effec-tive service to our customers, ensuring that we kept them informed of any new positive developments and products in the industry.”Within the first year of opening, the

Hi9 team moved to premises better situated and more suitable for their business. The shop is now located on the west coast of Cumbria, about five miles from the beautiful Lake District. “What has made our company work so well is the commitment of our staff. We began with a purely volunteer ethic doing it for the love and the experience and using the opportunity to learn and work to-ward creating jobs,” Shannon points out. “We work well as an organised team to provide quality service, on-going support and helpful advice, which are all most important. This in turn has shown itself to be beneficial as our customer base has steadily increased.”Hi9 stocks a wide range of brands

including, CANNA, Ionic, Vitalink, Biobizz, Atami, Dutch Pro, Guano-kalong, H&G, Rhino Filters, Systemair, Nutriculture systems and IWS. “Here at Hi9 we have made it a company policy to constantly strive to provide the best products, the best advice and the best

service,” says shop director, Jamie. “We don’t want to sell anything but reliable products. Keeping the customer happy and satisfied … and growing, is what it is all about. We do like to gain feedback from our customers about the products we offer; it’s helpful for us and ensures we are providing quality. When you add Steve’s vast knowledge and experience of growing into the mix, the customers … and the staff are provided with valuable little gems of guidance and useful tips and tricks.”Today, Hi9 has welcomed another

member of the team: Lewis, head of sales, who has brought along further retail experience and has proved himself an invaluable member of the shop staff. “Working here has been such a positive for me, increasing and building upon my retail experience and stock manage-ment,” Lewis says. “The work is enjoyable and there is always a happy atmosphere for staff and customers alike. We’ve had good help from our wholesalers and sup-pliers who have provided support and advice about their products.”Steve sums up by saying, “We’d like to

thank our customers and our wholesal-ers for their support. On a personal level as shareholder I’d like to thank Shan-non, Jamie and Lewis for their commit-ment, tenacity and work ethic. Hi9 is a team which consists of decades of grow-ing experience, passionate enquiring minds, vitality and an initially volunteer commitment all combined with a desire to develop and learn. So, that is how Hi9 continues growing.”

AT A GLAnCe

Lewis, Hi9 head of sales

Shannon hard at work

Inside Hi9


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http://www.indoorgardenexpo.com

1st HydroponicsUnit 5 K-Line House, West Rd. Ipswich, Suffolk UK IP3 9FGTel: +44 (0) 1473 279829 www.1st-hydroponics.co.uk

21st Century GardenUnit A6., Bounds Green Ind. Es., Ringway London, Greater London UK N11 2UDTel: +44 (0) 2083 614659 www.21stcenturygarden.co.uk

3 Counties HydroponicsUnit 52, Rober t Court Ind.E s. Britten Rd. Reading, Berkshire UK RG2 0AUTel: +44 (0) 1189 874758

3 Counties HydroponicsThe Lodge, 113 Invicta Rd. Dartford, Kent UK DA2 6AYTel: +44 (0) 1322 273444

3 Counties HydroponicsUnit 13., Chiltern Bus. Ctr. Cowley, Oxford UK OX4 6NGTel: +44 (0) 1865 771747

3 Counties HydroponicsUnit 11, Olds Close, Olds Approach Watford, Herts UK WD18 8RUTel: +44 (0) 1923 774486

3 Countries HydroponicsUnit 12., Yew Tree Ind. Es., Mill Hall Aylesford, Maidstone UK ME20 7ETTel: +44 (0) 1622 790456

3 Countries HydroponicsUnit 10., Woodley Yard Cherstsey Bridge Rd. Chertsey, Surrey UK KT16 8LFTel: +44 (0) 1932 562174

3 Countries HydroponicsUnit 9., Galley Hill Yard Waltham Abbey, Essex UK EN9 2AGTel: +44 (0) 1992 652301

A-Zee Hydro Ltd.Unit C4, Suttons Bus. Ctr.New Rd. Rainham, Essex UK RM13 8DETel: +44 (0) 1708 551199____________________________

Acorn Horticulture65 Deep Ln.

Sheffield, UK S5 0DUTel: +44 (0) 1142 458581

www.acornhorticulture.co.uk____________________________

Addloes Lighting & Hydroponics16-A Maple Rd., Winton Bourmouth, Dorset UK BH9 2PNTel: +44 (0) 1202 524525; www.addloes.com

AllbrightUnit 6., The Rise Edgware, Middlesex UK HA8 8NRTel: +44 (0) 2089 582426

Amazing Garden Supplies (Bridgend)Unit 6 Eastlake Close., Litchard Ind. Es. Bridgend, South Wales UK CF31 2ALTel: +44 (0) 1656 663030

Amazing Garden Supplies (Bristol)Unit 3 Moravian Bus.Pk., Moravian Rd. Kingswood, Bristol UK BS15 8NFTel: +44 (0) 1179 605566

Anglia Hydroponics62 A Straight Rd. Boxted, Colchester, Essex UK C04 5RDTel: +44 (0) 1206 272677 www.angliahydroponics.co.uk

AquacultureUnit 79 (A) Carlton Ind. Es. Barnsley, South Yorkshire UK S71 3HWTel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk

AquacultureUnit 3, Asher Ln. Bus. Pk. Asher Ln. Ripley, Derbyshire UK DE5 3RETel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.ukAquacultureUnit 3, Pkwy One, Pkwy Dr. Sheffield, South Yorkshire UK S9 4WUTel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk

Aquatech Horticultural LightingUnit 3F, Spa Fields Ind. Es. New St. Slaithwait Huddersfield, West Yorkshire UK HD7 5BBTel: +44 (0) 1484 842632

Ashton Hydroponics Ltd.Unit 3 Park Parade Ind. Es. Welbeck St. S. Ashton-Under-Lyna, Manchester UK O4L 67PPTel: +44 (0) 1613 391673www.ashton-hydroponics.co.uk____________________________

Aztec GardenUnit 1A Roughan Ind.Es.

Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk UK IP30 9ND

Tel: +44 (0) 1359 271876www.aztec-garden.co.uk

_____________________________

Basement Lighting Ltd.Unit 3, The Old Maltings, George St. Newark, Nottinghamshire UK NG24 1LUTel: +44 (0) 1636 650189

Big Stone River Garden CenterUnit 1 East Gate Grimsby, Lincolnshire UK DN3 29BATel: +44 (0) 1472 241114

Bill & Ben’s Hydro WorldUnit D15 & D16 Erin Trade CentreBlumpers WayChippenham, Wiltshire, UKSN14 6LHTel: +44(0) 1249 447796

Blooming BordersUnit 3, Borders Bus Pk. Longtown Carlisle, Cumbria UK CA6 5TDTel: +44 (0) 1228 792587 www.bloomingbordersltd.co.uk

Bradford Hydroponics9597 Manningham Ln. Bradford, West Yorkshire UK BD1 3BNTel: +44 (0) 1274 729205www.bradfordhydroponics.co.uk

Branching OutUnit E, The Old Brewery, Durnford St. Ashton Gate, Bristol UK BS3 2AWTel: +44 (0) 1179 666996www.hydroponics-online.co.ukBright Green UK Ltd.42-44 Princess Rd., Hull, Yorkshire UK HU5 2RDTel: +44 (0) 1482 341925 www.brightgreen-uk.co.uk

____________________________

Brit Crops LtdUnit 9 OJ’s Ind. Pk.Claybank Rd.

Portsmouth, Hampshire UK PO3 5SXTel: +44 (0) 2392 669111

www.britcropshydroponics.co.uk____________________________

Britlite HydroponicsUnit 11 Roman Ind. Es. Croydon, UK CRO 2DTTel: +44 (0) 2086 834424www.britelite-hydroponics-uk.com

Bub’s allotmentThe Rural Granary Business CentreUnit 4 North StreetHellingly, East Sussex UK BN27 4DUTel: +44 (0) 7528 098103Web: www.bubsallotment.co.uk

Chrissie’s GardenUnit 33 Portsmouth Enterprise Ctr. Quartermain Rd. Portsmouth, UK PO3 5QTTel: +44 (0) 2392 667887Clever Green35 Ketley Bus. Pk. Waterloo Rd., Telford, Shropshire UK TF1 5JDTel: +44 (0) 1952 257200 www.clevergreen.co.uk

Crofters Bio GardensUnit 2, Bloomsgrove Ind. Es.Ilkeston Rd. Radford, Nottingham UK NG7 3JBTel: +44 (0) 1159 782345 www.croftersbiogardens.com

Discount Hydroponics1 Bus. Bldg. Waltergrave St. Hastings, East Sussex UK TN34 1SJTel: +44 (0) 1424 428186

Eastbourne Hydroponics47 Upperton Rd. Eastbourne, East Sussex UK BN21 1LTTel: +44 (0) 1323 732241

Eighteen Twelve Ltd.Unit 11 Whitehall Properties Towngate Wyke, Bradford UK BD12 9JQTel: +44 (0) 1274 694444

Elements Hydroponic Center44 Auster Rd. Clifton Moor, York UK YO30 4XATel: +44 (0) 1904 479979 www.elementshydroponics.com

Enhanced Urban Gardening152 London Rd. Workingham, Berkshire UK RG40 1SUTel: +44 (0) 1189 890510www.enhancedurbangardening.co.uk

Esoteric Hydroponics Ltd.8 Martyr Rd. Guildford, Surrey UK GU1 4LFTel: +44 (0) 1483 596484www.1-hydroponics.co.uk

Future Garden (Chelmsford)15 Rob Johns Rd., Widford Ind.Est.,Essex, Chelmsford CM1 3AG+44 (0) 1245 [email protected] Garden (Ilford)Unit E., The Acorn Centre Roebuck Rd., Hainault Bus.Pk.,Essex, Ilford IG6 3TU+44 (0) 0208 [email protected]

Garden Secrets UK Ltd.Unit 3 Hollybush Est. Whitchurch, Cardiff UK CF14 7DSTel: +44 (0) 2920 651792www.gardensecretsuk.co.uk

Garforth HydroponicsBack off 11a main streetLeeds, UK lS25 1DSwww.garforthhydroponics.co.uk

Great Stuff Hydroponics24 Collingwood Ct. Riverside Park Ind. Es. Middlesbrough, UK TS2 1RPTel: +44 (0) 1642 224544www.hydroponics-hydroponics.com

Great Stuff Hydroponics30 C Ellemeres Ct. Leechmere Ind. Es.Sunderland, UK SR2 9UATel: +44 (0) 1914 474098www.hydroponics-hydroponics.com

Greater Manchester Hydroponic GardenUnit 3, The Courtyard, 157 Bolton Old Road,Atherton, Manchester, M46 9RETel: +44 (0) 1942 884612

Green Daze Hydroponics AshingtonUnit 9 Waterside Ct.North Seaton Bus. Pk. Ashington, Northumberland UK NE63 0YG Tel: +44 (0) 1670 818003www.greendazehydroponics.co.uk

Green Daze Hydroponics Gateshead10 Wellington St. Gateshead, UK NE8 2AJTel: +44 (0) 1914 789107 www.greendazehydroponics.co.uk____________________________

Green Fever18 Hartsill Rd.,Stoke-on-Trent

Staffordshire, UK ST4 7QUTel: +44 (0) 1782 414448

www.green-fever.co.uk____________________________

Green Finger190 Hessle Rd. Hull, East Yorkshire UK HU3 3BETel: +44 (0) 1482 222425

___________________________

Greenfinger-HydroponicsUnit 3 Park Works, 16-18 Park Road,

Kingston-Upon-Thames, Surrey, KT2 6BX

Tel: +44(0) 208 546 3444____________________________

Greenfinger-HydroponicsUnit 59 T Marchant Estate, 42-72 Verney

Road, South Bermondsey,SE16 3DH

+44 (0) 207 394 0629____________________________

Greenfinger-HydroponicsUnit 38 Silicon Business Centre,28

Wadsworth Road,Perivale,UB6 7JZ

Tel: +44 (0) 208 998 2034____________________________

Green Giant HydroponicsGlan Y Mor Rd. Llandudno Junction Conwy.Gwynedd North Wales, LL31 9RU UKTel: +44 (0) 1492 583960

GreenKeeper Hydroponics141 Brook St.Chester Cheshire, UK CH1 3DUTel: +(44 (0) 1244 630501

____________________________

Green Spirit Hydroponics Ltd.Unit 6, Rockingham Business Park,

Rockingham Row, Birdwell, UK S705TWTel: +44 (0) 1226 399837

www.greenspirit-hydroponics.com ____________________________

Green Spirit Hydroponics Ltd.8-10 Stanley St.

Sheffield, UK S3 8HJTel: +44 (0) 1142 753353

www.greenspirit-hydroponics.com ____________________________

Green Stream12-14 Vivian Rd. Harbourne, Birmingham UK B17 ODSTel: +44 (0) 1214 262675www.greenstream.co.uk

Green World1618 Market Vaults Scarborough, UK YO11 1EUTel: +44 (0) 1723 370900www.greenworld.ne.uk

Greener than Life575- 577 Holderness Rd. Hull, East Riding UK HU8 9AATel: +44 (0) 1482 374201

Greengrass Indoor Gardening SuppliesUnit 5A Alexander Ct. Hazleford Way Newstead, Nottingham UK NG15 0DQTel: +44 (0) 1623 755055

____________________________

Greenhouse EffectUnit 2 Eagle Farm Cranfield Rd.

Wavendon, Milton Keynes UK MK17 8AU

Tel: +44 (0) 1908 585283____________________________Greenleaf SystemsUnit 26, Millers Bridge Ind. Es., Seymour, Bootle, Liverpool UK L20 1EETel: +44 (0) 1519 331113www.greenleafsystemsmerseyside.co.uk

The Green Room (Indoor Gardens) Ltd.Unit 61 Riverside III, Sir Thomas Longley Road,MEdway City Estate Rochester, KENT ME2 4BHTel: 01634 716764www.thegreenroomvip.co.uk

Greens HorticultureUnit F Totterdown Bridge Est, Albert Rd. St. Philips, Bristol, Somerset UK BS2 0XHTel: +44 (0) 1179 713000www. greenshorticulture.co.uk

Greenstream Hydroponics12-14 Vivian Rd. Birmingham, Harbourne UK B17 0DSTel: +44 (0) 1214 262675www.greenstream.co.uk

MAxIMUM YIELDdistributors listed alphabetically by shop name.


____________________________

Greensea HydroponicsUnit 1G. Gregory Rd. Mildenhall,

Bury St. Edmonds, Suffolk UK IP28 7PP

Tel: +44 (0) 1638 715350

www.greensea-hydroponics.co.uk

___________________________

Greenthings HydroponicsUnit 1, Adjewhella Chapel

Barriper Camborne,

Cornwall UK TR14 0QW

Tel: +44 (0) 1209 611870

www.greenthings.co.uk

Grotec Hydroponics393 Manchester Rd.,

Rochdale, Greater Manchester

UK OL11 3PG

Tel: +44 (0) 1706 750293

www.grotec.co.uk

Grotech Ltd.Unit 21. Saddlers Hall Farm, London Rd.

Basildon, Essex UK SS13 2HD

Tel: +44 (0) 1268 799828

www.grotechonline.co.uk

Grow 4 Good Ltd.22i Beehive Workshops

Durham, UK DH1 2X1

Tel: +44 (0) 1913 757667

www.grow4good.net

Grow Den2 Horthfield Rd.,

Rainham, Kent UK ME8 8 BJ

Tel: +44 (0) 1634 239333

Grow Green Ltd.15-17 Green Ln., Castle Bromwich

Birmingham, UK B36 0AY

Tel: +44 (0) 121 241 6445

Grow Green Trade Ltd.Unit 4 Castle Trading Est.

La Grange, Tamwarth, UK B79 7X0

Tel: +44 (0) 1827 62766

Grow Shaw96-98 Shaw Heath Rd.,

Stockport, Manchester UK SK3 8BP

Tel: +44 (0) 8452 725266

www.growshaw.co.uk

Grow Zone UKUnit 7, West Court, Crantock Street

Newquay, Cornwall UK TR7 1JL

Tel: +44 (0) 1637 806115

www.growzoneuk.com

GroSupplies Sovereign House, Ellen Terrace

Sulgrave, Washington,

Tyne & Wear NE37 3AS

Tel: +44 (0) 1914 153345

[email protected]

www.grosupplies.com

GroWell ColeshillUnits 8-11 Coleshill Trade Park, Station Rd.

Coleshill, Birmingham UK B46 1HT

Tel: +44 (0) 8453 442333

www.growell.co.uk

GroWell DudleyUnit 52 Enterprise Trad. Es. off Pedmore Rd.

Brierly Hill, Dudley UK DY5 1TX

Tel: +44 (0) 8453 456991

www.growell.co.uk

GroWell Fullham1 Royal Parade 247 Dawes Rd.

Fullham, London UK SW6 7RE

Tel: +44 (0) 8453 445174

www.growell.co.uk

GroWell Hockley HeathIvy House Farm, Grange Rd.

Hockley Heath, Solihull UK B94 6PR

Tel: +44 (0) 8433 571640

www.growell.co.uk

GroWell Mail Order DivisionPO Box 3255

Warwick, UK CV34 5GH

Tel: +44 (0) 8453 455177

www.growell.co.uk

GrowinGreenUnit 6, Queens drive industrial estate,

Newhall, Swadlincote, DE11 0EG

Tel: +44 (0) 1253 675722

www.growingreen.co.uk

Growing Life#6 Newington Green Rd.

London, UK N1 4RX

Tel: +44 (0) 2070 339541

www.growing-life.com

Groworks94 Upper Wickham Lane

Welling, Kent, UK DA16 3HQ

Tel: +44 (0) 2088 545160

GroworksUnit F16 Northfleet Industrial Estate

Lower Road, Gravesend, UK DA11 9SW

Tel: +44 (0) 1273 624327

GroworksUnit 4 Belltower Industrial Estate

Roedean Road, Brighton, UK BN2 5RU

Tel: +44 (0) 1322 838131

Happy Daze HydroponicsUnit 4 Craven Court Hedon Rd.

Hull, UK HU9 1NQ

Tel: +44 (0) 1482 224299

www.happydazehull.com

____________________________

The Grow Home HydroponicsUnit 26 Bolney Grange Ind.Pk., Burgess Hill

West Sussex RH17 5PB

+44 (0) 1444 244414

[email protected]

____________________________

Happy Gardens Ltd.Unit 9, Kelham Bank Ind Es., Kelham St.

Doncaster, South Yorkshire UK DN1 3RE

Tel: +44 (0) 1302 761386

Haverhill Hydroponics CentreUnit 14 Spring Rise Falconer Road

Haverhill, Suffolk CB97XU

+44 (0) 01440709474

www.haverhillhydro.co.uk

HFM Pyrotechnics Ltd.165A Londford Rd. Cannock, Staffordshire UK WS11 OLDTel: +44 (0) 1543 500800www.hfmgroup.com

Hi9THCUnit 3. Rope Walk,. Coach Rd. Whitehaven, Cumbria UK CA28 7TETel: +44 (0) 7821 914646www.hi9thc.co.uk

High Street HydroponicsUnit 56 Hebden R., Berkley Ind.Es.,Scunthorpe, North Lincolnshire DN15 8DTTel: +44(0) 1724 857191

Holland Hydroponics17 Rondin Rd., Ardwick, Greater Manchester UK M12 6BFTel: +44 (0) 8458 720570www.hydroponics.co.uk

Holland Hydroponics ExpressUnit 4 Leeds Rd. Trade Park. Leeds Rd.,Huddersfield, UK HD2 1YR

Holland HydroponicsHandbridge Mill 5 Parliament St. Burnley, Lancashire UK BB11 5HGTel: +44 (0) 8458 720590www.hydroponics.co.uk

Home Grower Ltd.Unit 8, Oak Court, Crystal Dr. Smethwick, West Midlands UK B66 1QGTel: +44 (0) 1215 411446www.thehomegrower.comHuyton Hydroponics & Gardening SuppliesHuyton, Mersey Side UK Tel: +44 (0) 1514 820101www.huytonhydro.co.uk

Hygrow II Hydroponics Units 3+4, 30 Oslo RoadSuttonfields Industrial EstateHULL HU7 0YN, East YorkshireTel: +44 (0) 1482 833455www.hygrow.co.uk

Hydro 1 StopUnit 35 Deykin Pk. Ind. Es. Deykin Ave. Aston, Birmingham UK B67HNTel: +44 (0) 1213 280876www.hydro1stop.co.uk

Hydro HobbyUnit 4 Brook Farm, Stoneleigh Rd. Gibbet Hill, Coventry UK CV4 7ABTel: +44 (0) 2476 414161www.hydrohobby.co.ukHydro Station Ltd.Unit 10 Hillfoot Ind. Es. Hoyland Rd. Sheffield, South Yorkshire UK S38ABTel: +44 (0) 1142 491636www.hydrostationltd.co.uk

Hydrodragon Ltd.113-115 Alfred St. Roath Cardiff, South Glamorgan UK CF24 4UATel: +44 (0) 2920 490333www.hydrodragon.co.uk

Hydroglo Ltd.The Top Store South Rd., Towerhamlets Dover, Kent UK CT17 OAHTel: +44 (0) 1304 203199Web: www.hydroglowltd.co.uk

Hydrogrow Systems Ltd.Unit 7, Acton Bus. Pk., Fields Farm Rd. Longeaton, Nottingham UK NG10 3FZTel: +44 (0) 1159 730007Web: www.hydrogrowsystems.co.uk

Hydrolite UK Ltd.215 Denman St., Radford, Nottingham UK NG7 3PSTel: +44 (0) 1159 785556www.hydrolite.co.uk

Hydroponic CorporationUnit 20, Deeside Ind. Es., Zone 1 Deeside, Flintshire UK SH5 2LRTel: +44 (0) 1244 289699www.t-h-c.biz

Hydroponica Ltd.130 Doncaster Rd. Wakefield, Yorkshire UK WF1 5JFTel: +44 (0) 1924 362888www.hydroponica.biz

Hydroponics.comUnit 24, Port Talbot Business Units Addison RoadPort Talbot, UK SA12 6HZTel: +44 (0) 1639 888891www.hydroponicsdotcom.com

Hydropower300 Holton Rd. Barry, Vale Of Glamorgan UK CF63 4HWTel: +44 (0) 7725 551479www.hydro-power.biz

Hydrosense47 Scarrots Ln. Newport, Isle of Wright UK PO30 1JDTel: +44 (0) 1983 522240

Hylton HydroRockington NurseryBlackness Rd. Sunderland, UK SR4 7XTTel: 01 9155 18453

Hytec HorticultureOld Wales Wood Colliery, Mansfield Rd. Sheffield, UK S26 5PQTel: +44 (0) 1909 772872www.hytechorticulture.co.uk

Junction 10 HydroUnit 55, Owen Road Industrial EstateWillenhall, WV13 2PXTel: +44 (0) 1215 686850www.j10hydro.com

Kernow Grow Ltd.11 D. Kernick Ind. Es. Penryn, Cornwall UK TR10 9EPTel: +44 (0) 3300 104420www.kernowgrow.co.uk

King Of Green18-24 Saint Helens Rd., Westcliff on Sea Westcliff, Essex UK SS0 7LBTel: +44 (0) 1702 347536www.kingofgreen.com

Kitbag Hydroponic Warehouse22 Pool Bank St. Nunaeton, Warwickshire UK CV11 5DBTel: +44 (0) 2476 641033ebaystores.co.uk/kitbagshop

Lancaster HydroponicsUnit 18 Lansil Ind.Es., Caton Rd. Lancaster, Lancashire UK LA1 3PQTel: +44 (0) 7961 279279www.lancasterhydroponics.co.uk

Lothian Hydroponics172 S Mid St. Bathgate, West Lothian UK EH48 1DYTel: +44 (0) 1506 650501

Makes Sense Grow ShopThe Annex Rear of #20, Barden Rd. Tonbridge, Kent UK TN9 1TXTel: +44 (0) 1732 507201www.makessencesrowshop.co.uk

Manchester HydroponicsUnit 1A, Reliance St. Newton Heath, Manchester UK M40 3AGTel: +44 (0) 1616 887333www.manchesterhydroponics.co.ukmanchesterhydroponics@yahoo.co.uk

Matilda’s Planet1 Green Pl. Kenfig, South Wales UK Tel: +44 (0) 7895 [email protected]

Mellow Yellow Hydro Ltd.Unit B1A Towngate Works., Dark Ln. Mawdesley, Lancashire UK L40 2QUTel: +44 (0) 1704 822609www.mellowyellowhydro.co.uk

Midland HydroponicsRussells Garden Centre

Baginton Coventry UK CV8 3AG

Tel: +44 (0) 2476 639109

[email protected]

www.maidland-hydroponics.com

Midnight Garden6 Howlbeck Rd.,

Guisborough, UK TS14 6LE

Tel: +44 (0) 79333 449661

Mile End Hydroponics265 Wick Rd.

London, UK E9 5DG

Tel: +44 (0) 2085 330497

www.mile-end-hydroponic.co.uk

Mousehold Garden Center63 Mousehold Ln.

Norwich, Norfolk UK NR7 8HP

Tel: +44 (0) 1603 413272

Mr. Beam HydroRose Grove Selby Rd.

Askern, Doncaster UK DN6 0ES

Tel: +44 (0) 1302 708297

www.mr-beam-hydro.com

New Age HydroponicsUnit 1 Albert Pl., Albert Mill

Lower Darwen, Lancashire UK BB3 OQE

Tel: +44 (0) 1254 661177

New Leaf Hydroponics1 Horsewater Wynd,

Hawkhill, Dundee UK DD1 5DU

Tel: +44 (0) 1382 202556

www.newleafhydroponics.co.uk

Norfolk Lights & Hydroponics Centre Ltd.Unit 2 Guardian Rd., Ind. Es.

Norwich, Norfolk UK NR5 8PF

Tel: +44 (0) 1603 666199

www.norfolklights.com

North Devon HydroponicsUnit 4 , Abbey Rd.

Barnstaple, Devon UK EX31 1JU

Tel: +44 (0) 1271 314999

www.northdevonhydroponics.co.uk

NuGreen HydroponicsUnit 4 Stirchley Trad. Es., Hazelwell Rd.

Stirchley, Birmingham UK B3O 2PF

Tel: +44 (0) 1216 855900

www.nugreenhydroponics.co.uk

One Stop Grow ShopUnit 8, Fenton Ind. Es., Dewsbury Rd.

Fenton, Stroke-On-Trent UK ST4 2TE

Tel: +44 (0) 1782 212000

www.onestopgrowshop.co.uk

Planet HydroUnit 11 NorthBridge Works., Storey St.

Leicester, Leics UK LE3 5GR

Tel: +44 (0) 1162 510800

Plant LifeUnit 11, Riverside Wy., Ravensthorpe

Ind Es.

Dewsbury, West Yorkshire UK WF13 3LG

Tel: +44 (0) 1924 492298

www.plantlife.me.uk

PlantasiaBrill View Farm Ludgershall Rd.

Bicester, Oxfordshire UK OX25 1PU

Tel: +44 (0) 8707 555225

www.plantasia.co.uk


MAxIMUM YIELDdistributors listed alphabetically by shop name.

Maximum Yield September/October will be available in September for free at indoor gardening retail stores and on maximumyield.com

Subscriptions are available at maximumyield.com/subscriptions

Progrow5 Westwood Units, Alphinbrook Rd. Marsh Barton Trad. Es. Exeter, Devon UK EX2 8QFTel: +44 (0) 1392 276998www.progrow.co.uk

Rootzone Hydroponics Ltd.Unit 2 & 3., The Green Bus.Ctr., The Causeway Staines, Middlesex UK TW18 3ALTel: +44 (0) 1784 490370www.hydrowebshop.com

Sale Hydro71 Dane Rd., Sale Manchester, Lancashire UK M33 7BPTel: +44 (0) 1619 739899Email: [email protected]

Sea of Green UK25 Eastcott Hill Swindon, Wiltshire UK SN1 3JGTel: +44 (0) 1793 617046www.seaofgreen.co.uk

____________________________

Somerset HydroUnit4 Technine, Guard Avenue

Houndstone Business ParkYeovil Somerset

BA22 8YETel: +44 (0) 1935 420720

www.somhydro.co.uk____________________________

South Coast HydroponicsUnit 8., Enterprise Ind. Es., Enterprise Rd. Horndean, Portsmouth UK PO8 0BBTel: +44 (0) 2392 598853www.southcoasthydroponics.com

Southern Hydro Centre9 Mamesbury Rd. Southampton, Hampshire UK S01 SFTTel: +44 (0) 2380 704080www.southernhydro.co.uk

Southern Lights #125 Fratton Rd. Hampshire, UK PO1 5ABTel: +44 (0) 1705 811822

Southern Lights #219A Grace Hill. Folkestone, Kent UK CT20 1HQTel: +44 (0) 1303 210003; Tel: +44 (0) 1303 252561

St Albans HydroponicsUnit 5 London Rd., Bus.Pk., 222 London Rd. St Albans, UK AL1 1PNTel: +44 (0) 1727 848595www.stalbanshydroponics.moonfruit.com

Starlite Systems226 Albert Rd., Plymouth, Devon UK PL2 1AWTel: +44 (0) 1752 551233www.starlitesystems.co.uk

Sub-Garden Supplies45-J Leyton Industrial Village, Argall Ave., Leyton, London UK E10 7QPTel: +44 (0) 2085 399563

Sunrise Hydroponics127 Newcastle St., Burslem. Stoke on Trent, Staffshire UK ST6 3QJTel: +44 (0) 1782 813814www.sunrisehydro.co.uk

The Green Machine Ltd.Unit 1A., Felin Puleston Ind.Es., Ruabon Rd. Wrexham, UK L13 7RFTel: +44 (0) 1978 265090www.thegreenmachineonline.com

The Grow Den2 Hothfield Rd. Rainham, Kent UK ME8 8BJTel: +44 (0) 1634 239333

The Grow Den Ltd.Unit 13., Eaves Ct., Eurolink Com.Pk., Bohan Dr. Sittingbourne, Kent UK ME10 3RYTel: +44 (0) 1795 426264

The Head GardenerUnit 11, Barton Bus. Pk. Eccles, Manchester UK M3O OQRTel: +44 (0) 1617 079860www.theheadgardner.net

The Home GrowerUnit 8., Oak Ct. Odbury, West Midlands UK B66 1QGTel: +44 (0) 1215 411446www.thehomegrower.comThe Hydroponic WarehouseUnit 15., Bay Airport Ind.Es., Kingston Pk. Newcastle, Tyne and Wear UK NE3 2EFTel: +44 (0) 1912 862045www.thehydroponicwharhouse.co.uk

The Inner Garden Ltd.Unit 14., Cornish Wy., West, Galmington Taunton, Somerset UK TA1 5NATel: +44 (0) 1823 274791

The Persy Grow Shop4 Kings Mews. Brighton, East Sussex UK BN3 2PATel: +44 (0) 1273 777335www.persygrowbox.co.uk

The Plant Pot69 Ratcliffe Gate, Mansfield, Nottinghamshire UK NG18 2JBTel: +44 (0) 1623 422711www.theplantpot.co.uk

Thetford Urban Gardens Ltd.25 Brunel Way, Thetford, Norfolk, UK IP24 1HPTel: +44 (0) 7780 232169thetford.urbangardens@hotmail.co.ukwww.thetford-urban-gardens.com

Toddington Hydroponics CenterGriffin Farm Unit 9., Toddington Dunstable, Bedford UK LU5 6BTTel: +44 (0) 1582 664765www.toddingtonhydroponics.co.uk

Triangle HydroponicsUnit 6 Bornemouth Central business park. South Cote Rd. Bornemouth BH1 3SJTel: +44 (0) 1202 556661www.trianglehydroponics.co.uk

U Grow LondonStudio12, Imperial Studios, 3-11 Imperial Rd. London, UK SW6 2AG, Tel: +44 (0) 2073 843388www.ugrow.com

Warehouse HydroponicsBank Quay Trading Est., Slutchers Ln. Warrington, Cheshire UK WA1 1PJTel: +44 (0) 1925 637837www.warehousehydroponics.co.uk

ireland

Northern Lights9 Dunluce St. Larne Antrim, Northern Ireland BT40 1JGTel: +44 (0) 2828 278485 www.northernlightsni.com

The Grow Shop14 Brews Hill , Nauan, Co. M Fath Ireland OLITel: +44 (0) 1772 204455 www.thc.ie

scotland

Progrow ScotlandUnit 6., Nasmyth Square Houston Ind.Es. Livingston, West Lothian Scotland EH5 45GGTel: +44 (0) 1506 430830www.progrowscotland.co.uk

Abergreen Horticulture LtdArch 8 Palmerston Rd.Aberdeen, Granpian Scotland AB11 5RETel: +44 (0) 1224 574737 www.abergreen.co.uk

Kingdom HydroponicsUnit #12 Carbery Pl., Mitchelson Ind. Es. Kirkcaldy, Fife Scotland KY1 3NETel: +44 (0) 1592 655611

Hydra Hydroponics41 Tower St., Edinburgh, Scotland EH6 7BNTel: +44 (0) 1315 611332 www.hydraonline.co.uk

Glasgrow15 Parnie St. Glasgow, Scotland G15RJTel: +44 (0) 1415 527522www.glasgrowhydroponics.co.uk

EZ Grow Perth77 Scott St. Perth, Scotland PH2 8JRTel: +44 (0) 7521 597308

U-Grow OrganicUnit 11 North Canal Bank St.,Port Dundas, GlasgowScotland G4 9XP+44 (0) 1413 [email protected]

hungary

BABYLON growCsurgói street 15., Budapest, Pest megyeHungaryTel: +36 (0) 20 381 [email protected]

Gomoa Trade Kft.Lágymányosi street 5., Budapest, Pest megye, Hungary 1111 Tel: +36 (0) 20 566 [email protected]

Gomoa Trade Kft.Petofi avenue 50.Szeged, Csongrád megye, Hungary 6725Tel: +36 (0) 20 406 [email protected]

Gomoa Trade Kft.Kazinczy street 3.Pécs, Baranya megye, Hungary 7621Tel: +36 (0) 20 351 [email protected]

COMInG uP InSeptember/October 2013

Basic Plant GeneticsGardeners have been breeding plants for specific traits for thousands of years. While you can genetically modify plant strains without understanding any of the science behind it, the basic principles can be demonstrated with a simple pack of playing cards.

PhysioloGical DisorDers of inDoor GarDensIndoor gardening offers to plants conditions that are fully under the gardener’s control. So, when physiological dis-orders strike, they can seem strange, mysterious and even sinister… However, a little knowledge can make dealing with them a lot easier.

aquaPonics: the Key to a More sustainaBle future?It’s becoming increasingly evident that we’re going to run out of sustainable fish stocks in the years ahead—Matt LeB-annister discusses if aquaponics is really a viable solution.

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Maximum Yield EU July/Aug 2013