MANUTEC PTY LTD ABN 60008030779

30 JONAL DRIVE CAVAN SA 5094

Ph.: 08-8260 2277 Fax: 08-8260 2399 Email: manutec@manutec.com.au Web: www.manutec.com.au

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SOIL HEALTH & PLANT NUTRITION –BASICS OF SUCCESSFUL GARDENING

Shelter, water & food are the basic needs for human & animals to survive and grow healthily; similarly

plants also need water, soil and nutrients (plant food) to grow. To have a lush green and healthy garden,

a vigorous soil or growing medium is needed and hence understanding the soil in your garden helps to

provide a fertile and caring home for plants.

If your garden doesn’t look healthy and observe a few symptoms such as poor growth, yellowing, poor

flowering and fruiting, curly and small leaves, hard and cracked soils, water logging etc., all would be

result of either poor soil health or poor nutrition or combination of both.

SOIL HEALTH

A Soil is considered to be healthy when it is physically structured well, chemically balanced & biologically

active. The common problems we notice in our gardens are as a result of soils being sick either

physically, chemically or biologically.

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Water logging Well drained soil

(poor root growth) (better root growth)

COMMON PHYSICAL PROBLEMS IN GARDEN SOILS CAUSING POOR GROWTH:

Physical problems mainly arise from poor soil composition and structure, i.e. either too much sand, or too much

clay. A well balanced soil such as loamy soils are good because they contain a balanced proportion of sand, clay

and silt particles which allows better aeration, drainage and holds plenty of water and nutrients. A detailed

description of soil types and their influence is provided in Appendix -2, Page 18.

If your garden soil is too hard & clayey, you may notice

o Slippery and sticky when wet and muddy during rain

o Forms crust and cracks when dry

o Break in to large clods during digging

o Results in poor root growth and emergence of seedlings

o Poor aeration & drainage results in water logging causing root rots

Remedy:

o In order to break the clay soils to a workable condition use Manutec

Gypsum product commonly available in garden outlets, that is

effective and economical.

If your Garden soil is too sandy you may notice

o Symptoms are opposite to clay soils with excessive drainage and results in dry conditions

o Loss/leaching of nutrients & water results in starvation by plants leading to poor growth.

Remedy:

o Add more organic matter or compost and or mix with loamy soils to improve composition and structure.

o Feed with slow release Fertilisers such as Manutec Blood & Bone, Slow release Tablets and Manutec slow

release granules etc. which helps to reduce the wastage of nutrients from leaching and provide constant

feeding throughout growth.

Soil temperature is another factor affecting healthy growth particularly during peak winter & and peak

summers due to extremities affecting root growth and moisture levels.

Remedy: Mulch your garden beds/soils with organic mulch (such as bark/straw etc.) or covering plastic

sheets. This helps to minimise evaporation, regulates extreme temperatures & also reduces weed infestation.

MANUTEC GYPSUM HELPS TO BREAK DOWN HARD CLAY IN TO WORKABLE SOILS

Blood &

bone/Organic/ slow

release nutrient

products reduces

leaching of nutrients

in sandy soils

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COMMON CHEMICAL PROBLEMS IN GARDEN SOILS CAUSING POOR GROWTH:

Chemical problems in soils or potting mixes mainly arise from either “too much “or “too little “conditions.

Too much acid (acidic soils – low soil pH)

Too much lime (alkaline soils – high soil pH)

Too little nutrients (nutrient deficiency)

Too much nutrients (nutrient toxicity)

Too much salt content (excessive sodium)

A healthy soil should have a balance of acidity and alkalinity resulting in neutral pH condition which facilitates

optimal uptake of available nutrients from soil.

SOIL ACIDITY & ALKALINITY AND IMPORTANCE OF SOIL PH

When we touch an acid or caustic soda by hands we feel a burning or irritation experience, similarly plant roots

are also affected by excessive acidity (low pH) and alkalinity (high pH).

What is soil pH?

In simple terms, Soil pH is a measure of acidity or alkalinity in soils or potting mixes. A pH value 7 is neutral. Most

plants grow best in soils that are slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6 to 7), some plants however often referred to as

acid loving plants prefer and grow best under more acidic conditions (pH 4.5 to 6). A very few garden plants

prefer slightly alkaline conditions.

Why Test Your Soil pH? Knowing the pH of soil or growing media is crucial to understand a large number of garden problems. The availability of nutrients to plants varies as pH changes. All plants have a pH preference (refer to Appendix -3, page 19/20 for detailed listing of Plant by Plant pH preference). Most plants prefer and grow well at a pH range of 6-7 (i.e. slightly acid to neutral). However there are exceptions like acid loving plants such as Azalea, Camellia, Gardenia, Blue Hydrangeas etc. which prefer an acid soil pH of 5 - 6, whereas pink Hydrangeas prefer slightly alkaline pH to produce pink petals. Hence it is important to test and know the pH of your soil or potting media so that you determine its exact condition and assist you to alter and adjust pH as required.

Soil pH and Nutrient availability: Soil pH has direct influence on availability and absorption of nutrients by plants. Most nutrients are easily available at a pH range of 6 -7. Some micronutrients such as Iron, Zinc & Manganese are trapped in the soil and cannot be taken up by the plant under alkaline conditions, which we commonly see as yellowing symptoms in most vegetables and Fruit and Citrus trees. On the other hand, under high acidic conditions, nutrients like Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium and Calcium become less available resulting in deficiency symptoms. Regular maintenance and application of corrective nutrient elements is necessary to overcome deficiencies under these conditions. Detailed illustration on influence of pH on nutrient availability is provided in Appendix – 1, page 17.

When to Test Your Soil? Soils, potting mixes and growing media should be tested periodically throughout the growing season and in

particular while planting and preparing soils/beds during early spring and autumn. And, if you feel or notice that

your plants are not growing well, a soil pH test may help.

Neutral Alkaline Acidic

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

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4. The white barium powder changes to a

different colour, compare the new colour

against closest colour on the colour chart to

obtain a pH reading

The Soil pH Test Kit is very safe to use. Normal precautions should be taken to store the kit in a dry place

away from Children and Pets. After use keep them closed properly and away from exposure to direct sunlight.

How to test Soil pH?

Soil pH can easily be tested by using Manutec Soil pH Test Kit. It is easy, economical and instant. This kit is used to test soils, compost,

potting mixes. It is a widely used and recommended kit for both home Gardeners and professional horticulturists. Each kit contains:

Instruction Booklet

pH Colour Chart

Mixing Plate &Mixing Stick

pH Indicator Liquid Dye in a Squeeze bottle

Barium Sulphate (white powder) in a puffer bottle

The kit is very easy to use, first a small sample of air dried soil is collected from the area to be tested, we

recommend a sample about a teaspoon (the size of a 10c piece) Any larger qty, too much dye will be

wasted to mix and test. If the soil is too wet, better to air dry overnight on a sheet of paper.

1 Take a small soil sample on the white mixing

plate and add a few drops of indicator dye.

2. Then mix the indicator liquid with the soil

sample to make a thick paste.

3. Sprinkle white Barium powder from the puffer

bottle on to the top of moist soil paste.

5

These amounts will lower the pH of the top 10 cm soil by about 1 unit. To lower the pH value by 2 units or more,

multiply the above recommendation by number of units to reduce. The soils that are naturally alkaline with large

amounts of lime stones will have a very high pH value and it will be difficult to lower the pH. Soil pH needs regular

monitoring and testing as soils will revert back to their natural pH level.

How to adjust Your Soil pH to required level

Lowering pH: If your pH reading is higher than 7 on colour chart, it means your soil is alkaline. To lower

the soil pH, you need to add Sulphur to the soil. Manutec Sulphur is the most common and economical

product available to lower the pH of soils.

ULowering pH of soils:

To lower the pH by one unit (for example from 7.5 to 6.5) uses

the following number of grams per square meter of area

depending on soil type.

Sandy soils - 25 g/m2 : Loamy soils –50-70 g/m2:

Clay soils - 100 g/ m2

Lowering pH of Bulk mixes and in Pots:

Bulk mixes: To lower the pH of bulk potting mixes by one unit, add approx. 400 g Manutec Sulphur per

cubic volume of mix i.e. 0.4 grams Sulphur per litre of mix.

In pots: To lower the pH of mix in pots quickly, a solution containing 2 grams of

Manutec Iron Sulphate per litre of water can be used. Apply about 200ml per litre of

mix and then immediately within 2-3 minutes water heavily to drain excess salt. Wait

for a week, check the pH and if needed repeat the same again. Sulphur can also be

used for established plants in pots, mix 0.4g per litre of soil and mix with top soil or potting mix and water well.

Ensure sulphur doesn’t sit on any foliage. However if the pH of potting mix is very high (above 9 or 10) it is

better to re-pot plants with fresh mix, rather than using excess acidifying material to reduce the pH.

Imp. Note: Manutec Sulphur is not soluble in water. When applied to soil, it is gradually converted to

acid and reduces the pH. Hence the actual effect of pH change can be observed after approx. 4-6 weeks.

So it is important to test the pH after this period and repeat the application if necessary.

Increasing soil pH: If your pH reading is lower than 6 on the colour chart, it means your soil is very

acidic. To increase the pH, you need to add Manutec Garden Lime or Manutec Dolomite. However

caution to be taken not to apply if you are growing acid loving plants such as azalea, camellia.

Garden lime 3kg Garden Lime 8kg Garden Lime 15g Dolomite

8kg

Note: The pH of the mix in pots should

be checked regularly every few months

because most fertilisers produce acidity

over a period of time

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To raise the pH of soils

To increase the pH by one unit (for example from 5.5 to 6.5), use the following number of grams of Manutec Lime

per square meter area depending on soil type.

Sandy soils - 100 g/m2: Loamy soils – 200 g/m2: Clay soils - 300 to 400 g/ m2

These amounts will raise the pH of the top 10cm of soil by about one unit. To increase the pH value by 2 units or more, multiply the

above recommendation by no. of units to increase. The soils that are naturally acidic needs constant monitoring & checking.

UTo raise the pH of mix in pots:

Raise the pH of mix with a suspension of Lime (Hydrated/Builders Lime) by dissolving 5g (heaped

teaspoon) in a litre of water. Pour the suspension onto the mix in the pot. Use 200ml for each litre of the

mix. As a guide a 130 mm pot contain 1 litre of potting mix. If the pH is too acidic (below 4.0) it is better

to do re-potting with fresh mix.

Note: Before you adjust or alter pH of soils/potting mixes, check the pH requirement or preference for

the plants you are growing so that you can change the pH accordingly. Refer to Appendix-3 at the end of

this guide for plant specific pH preferences.

UNDERSTANDING PLANT NUTRIENTS AND FERTILISERS

What are Plant Nutrients?

Plants need balanced amounts of at least 16 essential nutrients. Of these, three nutrients – Carbon (C),

Hydrogen (H), and Oxygen (O) are naturally available in adequate quantities. The other 13 elements are

not naturally found enough in soil or water and need to be supplemented through external sources (as

fertilisers). Depending on the relative quantities needed these 13 nutrients are classified as Macro

(Major) and Micro (Trace) elements.

Major nutrients include: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) and

Trace Elements are; Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), Sulphur (S), Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), Zinc (Zn),

Copper (Cu) Boron (B) and Molybdenum (Mo).

Role of major nutrients in choosing a right Fertiliser

Most Fertiliser products have been formulated around these basic 13 elements and particularly altered

to a specific NPK content to suit the needs of each plant or plant groups. NPK is a ratio of the three core

elements required for plant growth.

N – Nitrogen for growth of foliage or green growth.

P – Phosphorous for root development & plant’s energy to uptake nutrients & food

K – Potassium for flowering, fruiting and also improves pest & disease resistance

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The NPK numbers you see on the back of a fertiliser package on analysis represents the precent of each

nutrient contained in that fertiliser product. The numbers may not add up to 100 as they are expressed

as pure element basis and are presented in compound form with other trace elements making up that

product.

Based on the role of NPK plays on plant growth (as described above), it helps to select the right fertiliser

product for right purpose. For example as Nitrogen (N) promotes green growth, if you are fertilising

lawns or other plants with just green growth, select the product which has higher Nitrogen percentage

compared to P & K. On the contrary, if you want to promote more flowering and fruiting, select

fertilisers that contain more Potassium content. If you are not sure go for a balanced fertiliser.

However it is also important to keep in mind that you need to apply the right product at the right time,

for example in the beginning of a plant growth cycle, plants need more nitrogen to put up healthy green

growth and when it comes to flowering and fruiting time they need less nitrogen but more potassium to

increase flowering and fruiting. For example by applying a Manutec Nitrogen rich fertiliser at the time of

flowering, will result in the plant to put its energy into growing more foliage rather than to form flowers

and fruits.

TYPES & FORMS OF FERTILISERS

Fertiliser is a plant food containing nutrients (either organic or inorganic), not just chemicals, so feed

your plants adequately to grow them healthily; Depending on the growing conditions, choose the best

form and type of fertiliser that suits your application method/convenience. Some information below will

help you understand the type and forms of fertilisers (with Manutec products as examples) that are

commonly available at retail stores.

FERTILISERS BASED ON RELEASE AND SOLUBILITY

FAST RELEASE FERTILISERS

o Liquid Fertilisers

o Soluble powder Fertilisers

SLOW RELEASE FERTILISERS

o Tablet & Spike Fertilisers

o Controlled Release Fertilisers

Easy to dissolve & suitable for spray & soil

Quickly available & fast response

Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies

Gradually releases nutrients without wastage

Safe with no burning effect

Easy to apply, no measuring or mixing

EXAMPLES ONLY EXAMPLES ONLY

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Easy to dissolve & suitable for spray

Quickly available & fast response

Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies

Easy to dissolve & suitable for spray

Quickly available & fast response

Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies

Easy to use & suitable for spray

Quickly available & fast response

Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies

Gradually releases nutrients without wastage

Safe with no burning effect

Easy to apply, no measuring or mixing

FERTIISERS BASED ON SHAPE & FORM

GRANULAR Fertilisers

SOLUBLE POWDER Fertilisers

LIQUID Fertilisers

TABLET & SPIKE shaped Fertilisers

FERTILISERS BASED ON PRODUCT ORIGIN

o ORGANIC FERTILISERS

Fish & seaweed Fertilisers

Blood & Bone based Fertilisers

Organic pellets/granules

Manures & composts

o INORGANIC FERTILISERS

NPK compound Fertilisers

Soluble Powder Fertilisers

Concentrated Liquid Fertilisers

Trace Element products

Tablets & Spikes

Supply slow release organic nutrients

Adds organic content to soils & improve soil

condition

Safe to use on all plants including seedlings

Quickly available & fast response

Widely used and easily to apply

Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies

EXAMPLES ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY EXAMPLES ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY EXAMPLES ONLY

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FERTILISERS BASED ON PLANT SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS

FERTILISERS FOR ROSES FERTILISERS FOR FRUITS & CITRUS

FERTILISERS FOR LAWNS FERTILISERS FOR AZALEA & CAMELLIAS

FERTILISERS FOR TOMATOES FERTILISERS FOR GARDENS & VEGGIES

FERTILISERS FOR ORCHIDS FERTILISERS FOR HYDRANGEAS

These products are formulated based on NPK requirements of specific types/groups of plants and

these are easy to select from shelves for specific plants you are growing in the gardens. If you are

not sure, use the general purpose garden Fertiliser such as Garden Complete.

EXAMPLE ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY EXAMPLES ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY EXAMPLES ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY EXAMPLES ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY

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FERTILISERS WITH HIGH POTASSIUM FERTILISERS WITH HIGH NITROGEN

TO BOOST FLOWERS TO BOOST GREEN GROWTH

FERTILISERS TO AFRICAN VIOLETS FERTILISERS FOR HYDROPONICS

FERTILISERS TO SUPPLY SPECIFIC NUTRIENTS & TRACE ELEMENTS

In normal healthy soil conditions, trace elements supplied through regular application (as

listed in above examples) should be enough. However in some problem conditions such as

alkaline, acidic, sandy soils, organic soils become deficient in specific elements, in such cases

application of individual trace elements are recommended to supplement deficient nutrient.

For examples, in alkaline soils, normally experience deficiency of Zinc, Iron, and Manganese.

Similarly organic and sandy soils commonly become deficient in Potash and Trace elements.

EXAMPLES ONLY EXAMPLES ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY EXAMPLES ONLY

EXAMPLES ONLY

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UNDERSTANDING & IDENTIFYING PLANT NUTRIENT DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS

When plants fail to thrive and grow well, despite adequate soil preparation, watering and

mulching, it may be a sign of nutrient deficiency.

Fruits and vegetables are particularly vulnerable and also plants growing in very acid or

alkaline soils.

Symptoms such as general yellowing, stunted growth, poor flowering etc. are common

to many nutrient deficiencies. But identifying a specific deficiency depends on pattern

and location of these symptoms on plants. This quick guide & depictive examples below

will provide to you information on specific nutrient symptoms to determine the actual

nutrient or combinations of nutrients which may be causing the deficiencies.

The garden soils and Potting mixes which are not regularly fertilised tend to suffer from

nutrient deficiencies. Plants also suffer deficiencies where growing conditions are poor due

to acidity or alkalinity, hard clay, sandy soils or water logged conditions. These conditions

make it difficult for plants to take up plant nutrients efficiently. Sandy and organic soils are

naturally deficient in trace elements & potassium. The following section provides you

information regarding deficiency symptoms based on type and location of symptoms which

helps you to identify the specific deficient nutrients.

When Symptoms first appear in the OLDER leaves the deficiency can be due to

either Nitrogen, Magnesium, Potassium and or Phosphorus (major nutrients)

Nitrogen Deficiency:

Symptoms: general yellowing throughout the older

leaves including veins, leaf drop, premature

flowering and fruiting.

Cause: Nitrogen is a very soluble and mobile

element; it is easily leached into water ways and lost

to the atmosphere (particularly after heavy rains in

winter). This can result in deficiencies which can be

identified as yellowing of matured leaves in spring growth.

Remedy: regular application of organic manures and

fertilisers containing Nitrogen such as Manutec

Sulphate of Ammonia, and Manutec Urea, Organic

Blood & Bone, granular, tablet or soluble fertilisers

containing NPK will maintain adequate levels of

Nitrogen in soils if applied regularly.

When Nitrogen deficiency is severe

older leaves become completely

yellow including veins.

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Potassium

deficiency in leaves

with scorched

margins & browning

leaf edges

Patchy yellowing b/w

veins of older leaves with

veins remaining green

Potassium Deficiency in

Fruits with blotchy

yellowing & discoloration

Magnesium Deficiency

Symptoms: Patchy yellowing between the leaf veins of older leaves, sometimes with reddish brown tints and early leaf fall. Magnesium deficiency is common in tomatoes, apples, grape vines, raspberries, roses and rhododendrons. Very common in fruits, vegetables and acid loving plants such as azalea, camellias and rhododendrons.

Cause: Deficiencies of Magnesium are more common on light, sandy soils. Over-use of high-Potassium fertilisers or Potash can cause Magnesium deficiency, as plants take up Potassium in preference to Magnesium. Deficiencies are also common in acidic soils with low pH and in soils that are too wet or too dry restricting root growth.

Remedy: For immediate and short term remedy, apply Manutec Epsom salts by dissolving in water either as foliar spray or applying solution to plants surrounding roots. In the long term regular application of Manutec Epsom Salt or Manutec Trace element mixes containing Magnesium will maintain adequate levels of Magnesium in soils. In acid soils where Lime has to be used to raise the pH, use Manutec Dolomite lime (instead of Garden Lime) which also supplies adequate Magnesium to soils. However care should be taken to not use Dolomite or Lime around acid Loving plants such as azalea and camellia.

1BPotassium Deficiency: Symptoms: Initial symptoms of scorched

margins, spots surrounded by pale zones with

yellow or purple tints with browning at the leaf

edge and finally results in poor flowering or

fruiting.

Cause: Potassium promotes flowering, fruiting and general hardiness and is constantly removed from the soil and taken up by plants, particularly in flowering and fruiting plants. Shortages are more common on light, sandy or chalky soils and organic soils, where Potassium is easily washed away or naturally deficient. Deficiencies are also common in situations where potting mixes and organic manures are used with inadequate supply of Potash.

Remedy: Apply high Potassium fertilisers such as Manutec Sulphate of Potash or other Manutec fertilisers containing high Potassium content.

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Purple discolouration of

leaves & stems

Yellowing b/w veins with veins remaining green similar to

Iron, but seen mostly in slightly matured young leaves or

middle leaves.

2BPhosphorous Deficiency

Symptoms: poor growth, blue green to purple colour

look on leaves and stems (underneath leaves).

Cause: Phosphorous is needed for healthy roots and shoot growth. Low levels of Phosphorous in soils are not that widespread, however Australian soils do have a reputation for having lower than average levels of Phosphorous. Low Phosphorous levels may occur in areas with high rainfall and in heavy clay soils. Phosphorus deficiency also occurs in highly acidic soils.

Remedy: Apply fertilisers such as Manutec Superphosphate, Manutec Blood and Bone or fertilisers containing adequate levels of Phosphorous.

When symptoms appear in the first seen in MIDDLE leaves (either young or

slightly older leaves), the deficiency can be due Manganese

Manganese Deficiency

Symptoms: Manganese deficiency results in

inter-veinal yellowing, pale green veins,

water soaked spots. This is common in fruit

and vegetables, particularly when grown in

alkaline soil (high pH) conditions.

Cause: Under high pH (alkaline soil conditions)

Manganese is locked up in the soil and plants

cannot absorb or take up Manganese resulting

in a deficiency. Sometimes high Zinc or high Copper levels also reduces the uptake of

Manganese.

Remedy: Regular checks of soil pH to determine optimum pH level. In the long term, reduce

the soil alkalinity and maintain neutral pH by regularly adding Manutec Sulphur. For an

immediate fix, use of Manutec Manganese Sulphate or Manutec Zinc & Manganese either

by foliar spray or by watering can application will help to overcome deficiencies. The

application of these products will need to be repeated regularly until the underlying

problem with the soil pH is corrected.

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Blossom end rot is common in Tomatoes

& Capsicums due to Calcium deficiency

When symptoms appear first in the YOUNG leaves, the deficiencies mainly

due to Trace Elements Calcium, Sulphur, Iron, Copper, Zinc or Boron.

Calcium Deficiency:

Symptoms: necrotic leaf margins and curling of young

leaves, death of terminal buds and root tips.

Crop-specific symptoms include: In tomatoes

and HpeppersH (capsicums) : 'Blossom end rot' – Symptoms

start as sunken, dry decaying areas at the blossom end

of the fruit, furthest away from the stem, not all fruit on

a truss is necessarily affected. Sometimes in addition to

calcium rapid growth from high-nitrogen fertilizers and irregular watering

(over or under) may also cause blossom end rot.

In HappleHs: 'Hbitter pitH' – fruit skins develop pits, brown spots appear on skin and/or in flesh

and taste of those areas is bitter. In HCabbageH and BBBrussels H: Internal browning. In HCarrotH -

’cavity spotH' – oval spots develop into craters which may be invaded by other diseases.

Cause: Very high acidic conditions (low pH) results in Calcium being less available and plants

are unable to take it up. Excessive application of Ammonium and Potassium fertilisers can

also results in deficiencies of Calcium.

Remedy: Application of material containing Calcium Sulphate (Manutec Gypsum) helps to maintain Calcium levels. In acidic soils, application of Manutec Lime (either Garden Lime or Dolomite) provides Calcium to soils. In addition supplemental application of soluble Calcium Fertilisers such as Calcium Nitrate provides immediate effect to overcome deficiency. Organic matter should also be added to the soil in order to improve its moisture-retaining capacity. Balancing use of Calcium, Magnesium and Potassium based Fertilisers/materials is important as these are absorbed by plants in preference to one another if available in excess.

Sulphur Deficiency:

Symptoms: General yellowing of new leaves including

veins, in some plants leaves will be small with rolled

down edges.

Cause: Sulphur is important for formation of

proteins. Cabbages, onions and Brussels sprouts

are crops that really do require Sulphur (the

characteristic smell in these plants is from Sulphur).

Alkaline soils, sandy soils, high rain fall areas, and

Unlike Iron, Sulphur deficiency results in yellowing

of fresh or young leaves including veins

15

Initially yellowing of fresh or

young leaves b/w veins with

veins remaining green

Source:http://www.uky.edu/Ag/kpn/kpn_09/pn_090616.html

potting mixes are commonly deficient in Sulphur.

Remedy: Application of Manutec Sulphur containing fertilisers such as Super Phosphate or

Elemental Sulphur (partially in alkaline soils) helps to maintain adequate levels of Sulphur.

Use of some Sulphate based fertilisers also adds Sulphur content to soils.

Iron Deficiency:

Symptoms: symptoms start on young/fresh growth with yellowing between veins with veins

remaining sharp green

Cause: High pH (alkaline conditions) generally causes deficiencies as Iron is chemically locked up and unavailable for plants to absorb in soils. Acid loving plants are particularly vulnerable when growing in alkaline soils or potting composts.

Remedy: Application of Manutec Iron Chelate (EDTA) as a foliar sprays or applied to the soil around the plant roots is recommended. This provides effective results to overcome deficiencies. Maintaining and growing plants in optimum pH conditions helps to avoid severe deficiencies

Zinc Deficiency:

Symptoms: Yellowing of young leaves, results in small leaves and bunching of young leaves.

Cause: Alkaline conditions (high pH), sandy soils, excessive Phosphorus content in soils.

Remedy: Regular application of Manutec Zinc Sulphate or Manutec Trace Element mixes

containing Zinc will provide immediate remedy to overcome Zinc deficiency. In the long

term, maintaining optimum pH conditions is important to avoid severe deficiencies.

Severe Iron deficiency evident

in fresh / new growth

16

Copper Deficiency:

Symptoms: death of tips, yellowing and distorted young growth

Cause: Alkaline conditions, sandy soils and sometimes high levels of Iron, Manganese, Zinc or

Phosphorus fertilisers without the addition of Copper can cause deficiencies.

Remedy: Regular use of Manutec Trace Element mix containing Copper or Manutec Copper

Sulphate will maintain adequate levels of Copper in soils. In addition, maintaining optimum soil pH is

important as a long term remedy to enable availability of copper.

Boron Deficiency:

Symptoms: Stunted growth and tip dieback on lettuce, brown cracks in

celery; rotten Swedes, turnips and celeriac; dimples in pears with brown

patches underneath.

Cause: Soil shortages are rare, but this nutrient can be less available to

plant roots in alkaline and high rainfall conditions.

Remedy: Application of Manutec Trace Elements mix containing Boron or by applying Manutec

Boron (Sodium Borate) to the soil before sowing vegetables or as a foliar spray feed applied to fruit

trees.

Molybdenum Deficiency

Symptoms: mottling and cupping of leaves and distortion of stems.

Molybdenum deficiency is common in cauliflowers and other brassicas

(cabbage and Brussels’ sprouts) particularly when grown in acidic soil pH

conditions. “Whiptail “symptom in cauliflower is a common deficiency.

Cause: Molybdenum is required for a variety of plant growth processes,

but is needed only in very small quantities. Soil shortages of Molybdenum

are rare, but it can be less available to plant roots in acid conditions.

Remedy: Treat with Manutec Trace Elements mix that contains Molybdenum. Liming the soil will help in the long term, as making the soil more alkaline will help to make the Molybdenum more available

www.umassvegetable.org

http://www.agriculture.alberta.ca

17

As depicted in the diagram above, Soil pH has direct influence on availability and absorption of nutrients by

plants. Most nutrients are easily available at a pH range of 6 -7. Some micronutrients such as Iron, Zinc &

Manganese are trapped in the alkaline soils and cannot be taken up by the plant, which we commonly see as

yellowing symptoms in most vegetables, fruit and citrus trees.

On the other hand, under very high acidic conditions, nutrients like Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium,

Magnesium and Calcium become less available resulting in deficiency symptoms. Regular maintenance of soil

pH and application of corrective fertiliser elements is necessary to overcome deficiencies under these

conditions.

Appendix - 1

Soil pH and Nutrient availability

Nutrients available completely

and growth will be healthy &

optimum around neutral PH

18

APPENDIX- 2

Understanding your soil types and soil structure

Knowing whether your soil type is clay, sand, silt, loam, peat or chalk will help you choose the right plants for your garden, also to understand the impact on nutrient deficiencies and to maintain plants in good health.

4BThe different soil types

Soils vary enormously in characteristics, but the size of the particles that make up a soil defines its gardening characteristics:

Clay: less than 0.002mm Silt: 0.002-0.05mm Sand: 0.05-2mm

Stones: bigger than 2mm in size Chalky soils also contain calcium carbonate or lime.

The dominating proportion of a particle size gives soil its characteristics and because the tiny clay particles have a huge surface area for a given volume of clay they dominate the other particles:

Clay soils: Clay soils are rich in nutrients and can be very fertile if their clay clods can be

broken up into separate crumbs, making the water and nutrients held within the clay more

easily available to plant roots. Breaking up the clay into crumbs also makes the soil warmer,

more easily workable and less prone to compaction. Application of soil conditioners such as

Gypsum or Clay breaking liquids is helpful to make these soils drain better and become

more workable.

Sandy soils: Very gritty & dry, these light soils are usually low in nutrients, and lose water

very quickly being particularly free-draining. You can boost the water and nutrient holding

capacity of your soil by adding plenty of organic matter to bind the loose sand into more

fertile crumbs. Regular supplement with fertilisers will be necessary to give plants grown an

extra boost.

Silt soils: These soils are made up of fine particles that can be easily compacted by treading

and use of garden machinery. They are prone to washing away and wind erosion if left

exposed to the elements without plant cover. However, they contain more nutrients than

sandy soils and hold more water, so tend to be quite fertile. You can bind the silt particles

into more stable crumbs by the addition of organic matter.

Loams: These soils are the gardener’s best friend, being a ‘perfect’ balance of all soil particle

types. But even though they are very good soils, it is important to regularly add organic

matter, especially if you are digging or cultivating these soils every year.

Chalky/Limy soils: Chalky soils are alkaline, so will not support acid loving plants that need

acid soil conditions. Very chalky soils may contain lumps of visible chalky white stone. Such

soils cannot be acidified, and it is better to choose plants that will thrive in alkaline

conditions.

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APPENDIX -3

PLANT BY PLANT – SOIL pH PREFERENCES

pH Range for Ornamentals, trees shrubs & Household plants

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Source: www.harvest.com

Disclaimer: These pH ranges listed here are compiled from the information available from various sources and should be taken as a guide only. As the use of this information is outside the control of Manutec Pty Ltd, no representation or warranty, expressed or implied is made as to the effect(s) of use of this information or the results obtained.