Mann's Jewelers Accent Magazine Spring 2012

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Contents spring/summer 2012

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M A N N ’ S J E W E L E R S

2945 MONROE AVENUE

ROCHESTER, NY 14618

585-271-4000

WWW.MANNSJEWELERS.COM

S T O R E H O U R S :

10:00 AM - 5:30 PM MON/TUE/WED/FRI/SAT

10:00 AM - 8:30 PM THURS

CLOSED SUNDAY

CALL FOR EXTENDED HOLIDAY HOURS.

C H A I R M A N O F T H E B O A R D

IRVING MANN

C H I E F E X E C U T I V E O F F I C E R

NANCY MANN

P R E S I D E N T

ROBERT MANN

C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R

MICHAEL GALLINA

D I R E C T O R O F M A R K E T I N G

MEGAN CRAWFORD

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P

P U B L I S H E R

STU NIFOUSSI

E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F

KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R

HANS GSCHLIESSER

M A N A G I N G E D I T O R

JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

P R O J E C T M A N A G E R

LISA MONTEMORRA

D E S I G N E R S

CYNTHIA LUCERO

JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E R

PEG EADIE

P R E S I D E N T A N D C E O

BRITTON JONES

C H A I R M A N A N D C O O

MAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary

depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012.

Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,

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Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

FEATURES2 Illumannations

4 MJ Scene

6 Fabulous in Rochester

8 Flower Power

10 Designers: Temple St. Clair

14 From the Runways

18 Home: Al Fresco

26 Red Carpet

30 Profile: John Hardy

32 Perfect Gems

36 Food: Making Magic

64 End Page: Last Bid for Love

WATCH SECTION 48 The Rob Report

50 Winders: Winding it Up

54 Cool Blue & White Hot Watches

56 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum

60 Collecting: Time on His Side

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ILLUMANNATIONS

ell, it’s fi nally happened to me, and I love it! I have a dog in my house…now… after both of my

children have left the nest. And I must admit, he is wonderful company and other than my father, the nicest guy I know. It happened so innocently. His mother (my daughter) moved to NYC and can barely fi t herself into her apartment, never mind Allen. So now Allen lives with me, a light blond golden retriever spreading his fur and his love all over my dark hardwood fl oors.We seem to have developed a nice routine. Some days he goes to camp. Some days he hangs out at home. And on the best days, he comes to Mann’s Jewelers. He spends time with anyone willing to pet him and even more time with anyone willing to feed him. It’s hard to argue with that kind of love.

Mann’s Jewelers is a family of dog lovers. We talk the talk and bark the bark. We have dog treats at the ready for visiting canines, share stories about our dogs and their antics, and unabashedly applaud the e! orts of pups who accessorize. So, we asked ourselves, why not show our support with some jewelry designed especially for dogs and the people who love them?Our Cause For Paws collection was designed to share the love with dogs and their owners, especially pups currently in shelters. Every year in the U.S., millions of animals die in shelters. A portion of sales from Our Cause For Paws helps build and support humane no-kill shelters providing spay and neuter services nationally. And locally we donate a percentage of these sales to Lollypop Farm, the Humane Society of Greater Rochester, to raise awareness and support for the prevention of animal cruelty.

Now that we’ve gotten started, there’s no stopping us. We have some new designs in the works, in styles so beautifully executed that I fear for my wallet. In addition to bones and cookies, do I present Allen with a new piece of jewelry for holidays and his birthday like I’ve done with my daughters year after year? Should his charms match his collars? Should he wear seasonal sentiments? Do I anoint him with “Born to Run” or “Bad to the Bone?”After nine generations of Mann’s Jewelers commemorating life’s most meaningful moments, it feels great to have opened our hearts even wider in an e! ort to improve the quality of life of our furriest friends. Because, as I learn every day from Allen, their love knows no bounds.

“Glam-ma”Life as a

BY NANCY MANN, CEO

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MJSCENE

The New York Wedding AffairEach January, the fi nest bridal professionals in Upstate New York gather to present an afternoon of enchanting décor, mouth-watering treats, sparkling jewelry and lavish wedding inspiration. Hosted by Well Wed magazine, brides-to-be were able to attend educational seminars, peruse area vendors and enjoy complimentary spa treatments. The evening concluded with a fabulous couture wedding gown fashion show featuring bridal jewels by Mann’s Jewelers.

Rochester Young Professionals Mann’s Jewelers hosted the Rochester Young Professionals, a local Rochester group dedicated to volunteerism, professional development and social connections for an evening of beer and bling. Attendees took photos in our Bling Booth, decorating themselves in jewelry from Mann’s Jewelers and using fun props. Music was provided by the Bob Sneider Duo, and the evening culminated with a Chan Luu bracelet giveaway.

Photos courtesy of Brandon Vick & Kelly Ernst

Photos courtesy of Mann’s Bling Booth

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Diamond dewdrops glimmer with the promise of a new day.

MJDewdrops Sparkle and shine. Collection from $750

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I ’m back and I’m oh-so-excited for the snow to go and the sun to shine! Spring and summer fashion are by far my favorite. So let’s

pretend that you won’t be wearing your winter boots this spring in Rochester and talk about all the fabulous things to glam up your summer events.

Big Prints, Big Patterns, Big Color and All White. Do not skimp; my advice is to Be Brave, Be Daring, and if you can’t then pack up your boring black carryall and go home. I’m talking about matching fabrics, pastel shades, and neon hues. This is not a season to wimp out. This is where you can be noticed, this is the season to stand out. Sounds like my kinda summer.

There are a lot of women that tone it down ’cause they don’t want to stick out in the crowd. Tell me, what’s wrong with “trying too hard?” That just doesn’t make sense to me. Believe it or not, things that are e!ortless can actually LOOK fabulous...if you pick the right things. And if it wasn’t e!ortless, than who’s to be ashamed? So you tried to look like a glam queen? Bravo baby! It may appear that I spend all day keeping the baby in the playpen while I contemplate my looks. Not the case; I just armed myself with the staples for the season, I pulled my hair up into a high bun, and piled on my jewels, then grabbed the baby on the way out the door. May I be accused of looking like I “tried too hard?” Fantastic.

Here are some of my favorite trends for spring and summer: e!ortless or not, they’re what will go best with your colorful boat drinks at the Inn on the Lake.

White on White: I am sure that you have a pair of white jeans and a white tank (do not grab your hubby’s Fruit of the Loom). The key to updating the white summer look is to layer the neutrals, sheers and beading, even fur. Almost all designers at Spring 2012 Fashion Week started out with a white ensemble. So get a tan (a real one please), a great lip gloss (a juicy peach shade), style yourself some beachy waves and you’re dressed. No joke, that easy. But seriously, it is an effortless trend that will always create the illusion of glamour and style. So don’t be so afraid of standing out on a blank canvas. I promise, you will not be mistaken for a golfer at the LPGA as long as you keep it flowy, and accessorize with some round tortoise shades and your largest vintage-y colored stone rings.

Pastels: This season you can get your rays a number of di!erent ways. Denim is not just for blue; it’s for lavender, lemon, pink and mint. Sugary colors dust through your 501s like you’ve spent your day decorating Easter cookies. Yum. So easy to wear: pair them with a simple sheer white blouse if you’re feeling wimpy, or with a complementary colored cropped jacket for an extra layer of frosting. The colors are pastels that look like they have been plugged into

a light socket. Not your baby girl’s pastels, but rather a vibrant version of a girly hue.

The Brights. And when I say bright I mean get your sunglasses out and wear them everywhere. They are a cross between Rainbow Brite and the Care Bears (big fans of both). I have always been a lover of neon and fluorescent hues; they bring me back to my Body Glove coordinating outfits of the ’90s. Bright yellow, tangerine, and pink striped shorts mixed with embroidered tops for Posh Spice and mixed-media neon patent sandals for Sporty Spice. Shoot for a scuba-after-dark look and pick a racerback dress in fluorescent pink for shock value at the Rochester City Ballet Motown Event.

Pattern me up. You can’t go wrong with lots of pattern this spring and summer. Mixing graphics with minimalistic cuts, head-to-toe prints in mismatched ikats, tweeds, floral and animal prints create the

perfect summer storm of fabulousness. To help bring this trend to the lake for your favorite CMAC concerts, tug on a pair of shorts

with patterns that look like they were made out of your grandma’s curtains and add a graphic top. You can’t go wrong. Either match it up or mix stripes along with tribal accents and dance the night away.

Glamour and fun collide with the mix of colors and textures this season. Embellished and over-embellished will give you a killer outfit at the Hillside Work Scholarship event. Flapper dresses with feathers and beading will be a

perfect backdrop for your most incredible tassel necklaces and earrings. The only way you can mess up these trends is by wimping out. Go Big or Go Home.

FASHION411

BY COURTNEY WINSLOW

inFabulous Rochester

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Heather Moore leather wrap bracelet in sterling silver and 14k gold with diamonds. Each made to order with personalized sentiments. As shown $2,265

Caleo fl ower cu! bracelet with chrysophrase, moonstone and diamonds in sterling silver. $3,095

Rolex Datejust with pink fl oral Arabic dial and diamond bezel in 18k white gold and stainless steel. $12,900

Ippolita digital lace fl oral teardrop earrings in rosé. $375

MJSTYLECHECK

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MJ Soleil necklace with diamonds in 14k yellow gold. $4,675

Roberto Coin cocktail ring with pink and purple sapphires and diamonds in 18k rose gold. $7,400

Temple St. Clair fl ower bracelet with blue moonstone and diamonds in 18k yellow gold. $13,500

Diamond bands in 14k white or yellow gold. MJ Collection wide vine & fl ower band with white and yellow diamonds. $2,090MJ Collection narrow leaf & vine band with diamonds. $1,540Henri Daussi eternity bands with yellow diamonds. Each $1,540

Sutra earrings with gray moonstone and diamonds in 18k white gold. $7,250

Miriam Salat resin bangles with cubic zirconia and sterling silver fl ower accents. Each, $175

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In person, Temple St. Clair shows the same qualities that infuse herdesigns: a softness like the southern breezes of her childhood, and anold world intellectual rigor rooted in classical history. From the past to

the adventure of her present, her inspirations remain history, travel, the arts,nature and the sea.

Growing up in the South (Virginia and the coastal barrier islands ofSouth Carolina), her childhood was filled with colorful stories from herAmerican and European ancestry. Her father’s ancestors crossed withWilliam the Conqueror from France to England, coming to America justprior to the Civil War. Her maternal grandmother studied in Versailles,played shuffleboard with F. Scott Fitzgerald aboard a transatlantic trip, andwas one of the first to enter King Tut’s tomb just after its discovery. Add hermother’s enthusiasm for new places and her father’s love of history and thesea, and you can imagine the starting point from which Temple St. Clair’sown journey was launched.

Traveling for a month every summer, St. Clair was encouraged to keepa journal and gather treasures to make scrapbooks. Before each trip, shestudied the language, history and literature of each destination, fromIreland to Egypt. As a teenager she studied abroad in Switzerland. Whenher family moved to the barrier islands, she spent her summers studyingmarine biology with Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Project Ocean Search. Thework involved macro photography of small sea creatures and plankton,which St. Clair describes in her book, Alchemy: “At that level of intimacy,everything appears to be gemlike.” It’s no mystery then that she loves towork with colors of the sea: aquamarines, blue sapphires, blue-green

A ColorfulLife

DESIGNERS

THE DESIGNS OF TEMPLE ST. CLAIRSTAND THE TEST OF TIME.

BY LAURIE SCHECHTER

Blue Moods Temple St. Clair showcases her singular style, layers ofdesign spanning a nearly 25-year career.

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tourmaline, seafoam green beryl, and her favorite, blue moonstone. At Smith College majoring in literature, St. Clair spent a year studying

abroad in Florence, cementing a love of all things Florentine. Looking for areason to return to Italy, she embarked on a masters degree program inItalian literature in Florence and remained there after its completion. At thistime, she was introduced to “the world of the artisan” and like so much elsein her life, was propelled into jewelry design by her family.

While visiting St. Clair in Italy, her mother was intent on finding anancient coin and having a necklace made from it. Together they searchedand found one her mother loved, from Carthage dating to the 4th centuryB.C. Her mother, scheduled to leave, tasked St. Clair with creating anecklace out of the coin. From this experience came not only her firstjewelry creation, but relationships with antiquarians and goldsmiths withwhom she worked (and still does) much the same way as artisanscollaborated in the 14th and 15th centuries.

“A world opened for me. It brought together my years of study and lovefor Mediterranean culture with its timeless and classic aesthetic.” Her use ofcoins spawned a fascination with the histories and mythologies that thecoins represented, and as she studied them, she also studied the ancienttechniques of gold work (granulation and filigree) that would eventuallybecome Temple St. Clair signatures. (The granulation pyramid is a hallmarkof her designs.)

Another of her trademarks, in addition to the prevalent use of gold, isextensive work with colored gemstones. Inspired by Byzantine mosaics, sheuses colored stones as if they were tiles. She prickles at the term “semi-precious” since all of her stones are natural certified, not treated orenhanced, and for that reason they can be rarer than typical diamonds.They also speak to her nomadic nature. Unique colored gems require a hunt

and they come from all over the world, sometimes from only one place inthe world, like the spinal from Madagascar. In fact, natural coloredgemstones are one-of-a-kind, “as individual as people,” discovered by“nomad” gem dealers traveling the globe.

Her fascination with the history and the stories behind these elements,from coins to gemstones, goes hand-in-hand with her recurring use of age-old symbols: talismans and amulets “attributed with power and meaning bytheir wearer,” religious symbols, zodiac signs, angels, mythologicalserpents, butterflies, doves and pomegranates, all imbued with ancientmeanings that she incorporates into modern designs. “Each tells a story,mythological or religious, and ultimately personal. Especially the locket,which we fill with our own stories,” she explains. These themes repeatthroughout her collections. Her rock crystal amulet (St. Clair still wears hervery first one) gets updated every season. Since her customer, like herself,is all about personal style, each piece acquired adds another layer to thatpersonality.

Last year St. Clair added a series to her collections called Save JapanDolphins (pendants and a ring) to support the organization’s efforts tocease the capture and slaughter of dolphins in Taiji, Japan. Her lifelong loveof the sea and her history of supporting causes made this a very personalendeavor, particularly striking in that her beloved blue moonstone is nowendangered, too.

And so the Temple St. Clair journey continues, beckoning us withgold and magical colored gemstones to travel with her and create ourown personal story with these treasures. Or as the designer herself putsit, “Collecting, discovering and nodding to historical influences preservesa visceral link with the past, retelling wonderful stories in new andsurprising ways.”

IT’S NO MYSTERY THAT SHE LOVES TO WORK WITH COLORS OF THE SEA:AQUAMARINES, BLUE SAPPHIRES, BLUE-GREEN TOURMALINE, SEAFOAM GREEN BERYL,

AND HER FAVORITE, BLUE MOONSTONE.

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FROM THE RUNWAYS

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RAINBOWBright


DarkAND DANGEROUS


Soulful. Subtle. Sparkling.

MJ Rocks A rough luxe collection designed and created exclusively by Mann’s Jewelers.From $295

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Growing up, an “outdoor kitchen” (if such a term even existed) generallymeant a portable barbecue sitting atop an aqua-colored slab of cement.Basketweave plastic lounge chairs might be protected by a corrugated

tin awning, and Dad spent more time swearing at non-functioning equipment thanactually grilling. Today, a host of high-tech innovations, weatherproof customappliances, and a desire to maximize the social space of even the largest houseshave redefined the concept of cooking and dining al fresco.

“We actually require our homeowners to include a summer kitchen in

their construction,” says Page Pierce, vice president of Walt Disney WorldResort’s new Golden Oak luxury housing development. The community,which opened last September with eight homes, will eventually host asmany as 800 homes, along with a top-tier restaurant and demonstrationkitchen, community center and other amenities. Homeowners have VIPaccess to the neighboring Disney theme parks, along with available perkslike door-to-park car service, concierge services for the greater Orlandoregion and access to special and private events.

AL FRESCOTODAY’S OUTDOOR KITCHENS ARE FOR MORE THAN JUST GRILLING BURGERS.

BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

HOME

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"Outdoor kitchens are about being social, notabout formality,” says architect Doug Burdge,who designed the spaces above and left.

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Designed By Kevin Crego Location shot Crego Realty 383 Park Ave


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“One of our thoughts in planning Golden Oak was to not create adevelopment that was just boxes,” says Pierce. “Because this is Florida, it’simportant to celebrate the indoor/outdoor living we’re able to enjoy.” At aminimum, most houses have a covered area with a great barbecue, outdoorsink, refrigerator and outdoor seating. But they can get much moreelaborate. “Some have remote control retractible screens to keep the bugsout while allowing flow from the indoor kitchen, past the summer kitchen,all the way to the swim-up bar.”

Flow, and the efficient use of indoor/outdoor space seem to be keyingredients in designing a successful outdoor kitchen. “When we pay taxesand insurance on a house, we’ve paid for the environment around thathouse,” says Julian Exclusia of Florida Builder Appliances, an upscale divisionof Sears Holding Corporation. “We’re not just sitting in a cubby hole.”Exclusia works with athletes, entertainers and others to design and equipcustom homes, and he’s critical of some architects who “hide” a house’skitchen in the corner. “If you’re entertaining, you’re looking at the expanse,or you should be, whether it’s the Colorado Rockies or the Caribbean.”

Christopher Grubb, president of Arch Interiors in Beverly Hills, notes that“we’re trying to create a cohesive look and bring these spaces together.” Hisfull-service design firm has created several L.A.-area outdoor spaces,featuring popular elements like warming drawers, beer taps and an outdoorpizza oven, adding utility and distinction. Doug Burdge, a Malibu architect,designed an oceanfront property with not one, but three outdoor spaces: agrill area, a semi-enclosed chef’s kitchen and a rooftop social space.

“Outdoor kitchens are now a part of almost every design we do.”Many significant outdoor improvements, however, tend to happen after

completion of the house itself. This seems, in a large part, due to theeconomy. “In Southern California right now, 99% of all the home contractsare improvements on existing properties, not new construction,” saysGrubb. Meanwhile in Florida, Exclusia notes that banks are reluctant tofinance what they see as an elective (and expensive—elaborate kitchenscan run $50,000 to $100,000 or more) element. Thus, even high-endcustom homeowners are completing the house first, then financing theoutdoor activity spaces. However, Grubb notes that a professional, well-designed outdoor kitchen and social area could add hundreds of thousandsof dollars or more in resale value to a luxury property.

There are other reasons to design a space more elaborate than theaverage lonely Weber grill on an island of concrete. Owners whorent their homes for charity events or other gatherings effectively

double or triple the number of available hosting venues (or, alternatively,keep guests and visitors outside, away from living areas and damage-pronefurnishings).

Simple physics may also be at play in the rising popularity of theoutdoor kitchen. “We’ve kind of peaked on our maximum house size,” saysJeff Dross, corporate director of industry trends for Kichler Lighting. “So alot of architects are building in courtyards, adding large glass walls, andcreating indoor/outdoor flow. You’re essentially adding more rooms, andyour yard becomes a really nice, usable space.”

Today'soutdoorkitchens aredesigned toensure thatentertainment,design andservice flowsmoothly frominside tooutside.

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Luxury & a! ordability. Two become one.

MJ Bridal Created exclusively by Mann’s Jewelers.Engagement rings from $975

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Natural DiamondNot Synthetic

Color Grade

E

Clarity Grade

VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry NumberGIA 16354621

Carat Weight

1.53

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A GIA report is certainty from the source.

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A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who o! er them. www.4cs.gia.edu

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Though the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered

at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly

diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.

Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.

Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate

that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it.

For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose

pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident

RED CARPET

Blonde BombshellsWITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE,

WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

AMBER HEARD ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER CLAIRE DANES

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smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked

like a winner long before they called her name.

Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens

cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings,

stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.

All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent

an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a

sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best.

Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The

Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to

yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical

designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.

RED CARPET

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PROFILE

SCALINGBACK

First introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th yearin business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragonand the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano

each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl.At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, thewater dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land andbrought prosperity to the Balinese.

Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer andcreative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Nagacollection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune,prosperity and success.

Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to helpthe Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as acollaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “abusiness can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “GreenerEveryday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmentalconservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even theblack palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s HongKong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compoundis a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mudstructures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for theentire workforce there.

The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Baliby these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served asjewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragonheads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Craftedfrom sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semi-precious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earringsare rich with detail, inside and out.

JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGACOLLECTION WITH FIERY NEWDESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OFTHE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

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“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGACOLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.”

–GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER

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EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

STEP IN STYLELocated in a small shop on New York City’s East Side,designer Barbara Barran’s Classic Rug Collection putsfashion underfoot with fascinating custom rugs. Herunique creations can be seen in very stylish homes allover the world, as well as the Whitney Museum, theSmithsonian, and other museum stores. Barran’s rugs,inspired by everything from Art Deco to traditionalAmerican quilts and her personal passion, Eastern art,are made of natural fibers including wool, silk,pashmina, hemp, linen, nettle and banana silk. She’sthe only rug designer in the U.S. to offer hand-knottedrugs from Nepal in 300 knot silk. Go barefoot!

A CHÂTEAU IN NORMANDYAt the end of a boulevard shaded with ancient trees, past clusters of huge roses in brilliant, almost illusory colors is the Château La Cheneviere. Thegrand three-story mansion, built in the 18th century, is set in the Normandy countryside, between the exquisite town of Bayeux and the historic beaches,in Port-en-Bessin. During WWII the residence was occupied by the Germans, then by the Americans after the June 1944 landing. Restored in 1988, themanor became a fully equipped hotel and restaurant, with a swimming pool, lovely terrace and beautiful views. Each guest room has a different décor,some with marble fireplaces, others with private patios. An intimate bar leads to a graceful dining room, where the brilliant chef uses local produce topresent the distinctive and legendary dishes of Normandy.

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REST ASSUREDHôtel Le Toiny is, if possible, even morefashionable and exclusive than the island of St.Barth’s itself. Set away from the throngs on agently sloping hillside in the Côte Sauvage area,each of the 15 luxurious private villas has its owngated entrance and a red mailbox flag thatserves as a “Do Not Disturb” sign. Inside, enjoynetting-draped four-poster mahogany beds,high-tech entertainment centers andkitchenettes. Outside, you’ll find private plungepools and incredible views across the lush hills toa beach, popular with surfers. The sommelier hasselected superb wines and the chef createsamazing dishes (including the hotel’s signaturepasta in cream with black truffles). If you chooseto stir from your villa, arrangements can be madefor a sunset cruise or a fishing expedition. Or, youcan just put up your flag, order the excellentroom service, and hide out like the other privacy-seeking celebrity guests.

HOUSTON, WE HAVE ARTInspired by the celebrated French inn, Houston’s La Colombe d’Orhotel takes its muse seriously. This 1923 mansion, located near themuseum district, owns an extensive art collection that includesCorot, Matisse and Chagall, as well as the 1715 panels, thought to beone of the finest examples of authentic French Regence décor inNorth America. When staying in one of the hotel’s rooms or villas(like the Cezanne Suite, pictured above), art- and food-lovingguests can arrange to take a personal tour of the collection, thendine on Pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass or Stuffed Quail, (naturallypaired with the appropriate wines) and Champagne sorbet, createdby chef Jeramie Robison in the hotel’s famed Restaurant CINQ.

BUBBLES IN THE AIRPops for Champagne is one of Chicago’s most elegant nightclubs,presenting a Champagne list comprising nearly 200 selections.Beverage director W. Craig Cooper offers the lowdown onChampagne for the summer: "When the mercury rises, it is alwaysbetter to select a drier Champagne. A higher dosage [sweetnesslevel] in a sparkling wine can be cloying when the weather is warmand balmy....” Cooper suggests Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut.“Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this wine…isperhaps one of the best of all Champagnes to pair withoysters…but can go just as well with a simple summer crudité.”Here’s to a sparkling summer!

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For those who dig classic conceptual cuisine outside of the traditionalrestaurant box setup, David Burke has becomesomewhat of a hero. In addition to his classic

surf and turf joints, Chef Burke holds court with hisfancy foods inside a Bloomingdale’s, a bowling alleyand an airport. If by chance you don’t recognize theoft-showy culinologist (an expert who blends culinaryarts and food technology) with a penchant forwhimsically sculpting his dishes to dazzlediners by name, there’s still a decentchance you’ve eaten in one of his 10restaurants, or purchased his gourmetproducts. (“Burke in the Box” take-out meal at Las Vegas’ McCarranAirport, anyone?) Or perhaps you’llrecall his very near win against BobbyFlay on Iron Chef, or his too-early kiss-off from Top Chef Masters.

Chef Burke has been a longtimepioneer in the biz of celebrity chefery,cooking up a career that “blurs the linesbetween chef, artist, entrepreneur and

inventor.” His factory of fabulous foodspots tantalizes taste buds through aslew of dramatically different spaces, with entertaining concoctionsappearing on plates throughout New York, and in New Jersey, Chicago,Connecticut and Las Vegas. Then there’s David Burke Townhouse, DavidBurke’s Primehouse, Fromagerie, David Burke Prime, Fishtail by DavidBurke and David Burke Kitchen. Burke is also the mastermind behindPastrami Salmon, GourmetPops, flavor-transfer spice sheets and variousflavor sprays and oils. He’s got two cookbooks and even DAVID BURKE

Magazine. We managed to catch this Renaissance man at his localgreenmarket, shopping for fresh, in-season finds.

You have so many titles! Chef, entrepreneur, artist,inventor.... Which do you feel describes you best?I’ve always felt at home in the kitchen. I was a dish washerin high school. I’d work on the weekends, and that’s when Ifell in love with the idea of working in a kitchen. I get realexcitement from the energy and creative teamwork that

happens in there. So all of the other things I am today cameout of me working in the kitchen. I get a real satisfaction out

of putting together a good product for someone else to enjoy.

MAKING MAGICIN THE FIRST INSTALLMENT OF OUR LEGENDARY CHEF SERIES, WE DISCOVER THAT

DAVID BURKE IS MUCH MORE THAN A WHIZ IN THE KITCHEN. BY SHIRA LEVINE

FOOD

Above: The lively dining room at Fishtail by David Burke.Left: David Burke, longtime pioneer of celebrity chefery.

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38

Many of today’s entrepreneurial celebrity chefs don’t actuallydo the cooking anymore, but shift their focus to the businessside of things. I still do cook in my kitchens, but it’s been a natural progression for me tobe in and out of the kitchen when need be. I made an early decision that Iwas going to conquer one level of this business at a time. After I reachedthe level of what I truly felt was “me as a good chef,” then it was time to bepartner in a company. Then the next course was to start my own company.I was one of the first chefs to do that. That road had not been paved yet. Itwas the late ’70s and the beginning of modern American food and of chefsas businessmen.

A lot of the David Burke dining experience is about setting thescene, and your restaurants each have very specific, thought-out designs. Would you describe yourself as fashion forward?When you work in the kitchen it’s nearly impossible to be fashion forward!But we do take a lot of pride in the ambiance and décor of the restaurants,especially Townhouse and Kitchen. I was very involved in helping decoratethem, but I’m not a designer. Kitchen is supposed to feel dark and woodsy,comfy—like a home. Bloomingdale’s has an intimate neighborhood feel. Oursteakhouses are more masculine.

What are some other ideas you’re currently excited about?We have a moveable garden in a parking lot at the Rumsfield, New Jerseyrestaurant. This summer we’re going to put each of the gardens in little redwagons so they can move around easily. When guests walk into therestaurant, they will be greeted with a bushel of tomatoes and basil plantsthat they can cut themselves and bring to the hostess. Then we’ll prepare itat the table as part of their appetizer. I just love the idea of that.

What’s your overall food philosophy?I’m always looking to cut out the middleman as much as possible. It’s whatis most economically sound for us. I am always in a local produce marketmyself. We’ve done it with our bread, our dairy and our produce. Fish andseafood are next. We’re also currently building a dry beef company with mypatented salt treatment. Our beef comes from right here in New Jersey. Ibought a bull five years ago in Kentucky so I would know exactly where mybeef comes from and can ensure the quality of what we’re serving. We havethe product down to the genetics, for the perfect marbleization and grading.It was superior planning on our part. We always want to know where ourstuff is coming from.

Do you think all the recent hype around “local” and “seasonal”is silly? Haven’t good chefs been doing this all along? The seasonal and local thing has been done forever, but it hasn’t beentouted. It’s being emphasized now because of the the state of the economy,and high fuel prices. All the recent PR is good, especially since it helpssupport American farmers, but it’s always been what we try to do. However,you have to understand, it’s hard to do local in Chicago in the winter. It’sabsolutely what the mom and pop shops should be aiming for, but it’s hardfor big [national] chains to do it. It’s tough to be 100 percent local; youmight simply not have a good local person for something you need.

How do you please loyal customers who request something thatisn’t in season?In New Jersey we have a lot of clientele who want calamari, but it’s not local

there. In those cases we make exceptions—it’s what the customers want!But when it comes to fruit and people wanting raspberries or blueberriesyear round, we suggest maybe trying a dish with mango or pineapple.

Your menus run the deliciously garish gamut, from BowlmorLanes’ badass burger replete with applewood-smoked bacon,spicy tempura shrimp, cheddar cheese and blue cheese slaw, toDavid Burke Kitchen’s pretzel crabcake with tomato, orangeand green peppercorn. What do you love to order when you eatout, and what do you like to cook at home? I love ordering Peking duck! For myself, I love to prepare pasta. I’ll makegemelli with sweet sausage, tomatoes, olive oil and butter. When I cook forfriends and family, I love to prepare a whole roasted fish, chicken, squab orturkey. My favorite is roasted squab foie gras, cabbage with corn bread andpickled onions.

Is there anything you wish your guests would be a little moreadventurous about trying?Game birds, sweet potatoes and kidneys!

Maple Bacon DatesYields 20 stuffed dates

INGREDIENTS:1⁄4 pound peanuts2 1⁄2 ounces honey1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1⁄2 minced jalapeño 20 Medjool dates, cut in half 10 strips of par-baked smoked bacon20 seedless grapes 1 eggFlourBreadcrumbs

METHOD: 1. Heat peanuts, honey and cayenne pepper until caramelized.Cool and puree.2. Stuff puree into Medjool date half, then wrap with a half pieceof par-baked smoked bacon. 3. Lightly beat egg. Dredge grapes in flour, dip in egg wash,then breadcrumbs. Place into a deep fryer filled with hot oil andfry until crispy.4. Place grapes, and then bacon wrapped dates, on bambooskewers and serve.

MANN_Food_Making Magic.qxp:MANN_ 3/27/12 12:19 PM Page 38


Do you have tangled chains, half pairs of earrings or broken bracelets? Do you have jewelry with outdated styling that you no longer wear? Mann’s Jewelers is your safe and trusted precious metals buying resource. We buy gold, platinum and silver every day. You may be pleasantly surprised by how much value you fi nd hidden away in your jewelry box.

Stop by for a friendly consultation with our precious metal buying professionals, who will weigh and evaluate your gold and other precious metals as you watch, answering any questions you may have, in a safe and professional atmosphere. Sell with confi dence, knowing that we are a 9th-generation, family-owned local business, with a reputation for honesty and integrity.

We offer confi dential same-day service and your choice of either immediate payment or a store credit. If you’d prefer to trade your old gold for something new with contemporary styling, you will receive a 10% premium on the value of your metals toward your purchase. If something in our showroom catches your eye, take it home on the same day. If not, we are happy to provide you with a store credit, held on your account with no expiration date.

At Mann’s Jewelers, there is never any pressure to sell. Should you choose not to sell, there is never a charge and never a hassle. We look forward to serving you.

SELL YOUR GOLD, PLATINUM AND SILVER AT MANN’S JEWELERS

MJCUSTOMERCARE

Safe.Trusted.

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FOR A LOVE THAT LASTS A LIFETIME

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mag.rochester.edu500 University Ave.Rochester NY 14607

This exhibition is made possible through the generosity of the National Endowment for the Arts; the Henry Luce Foundation;

and the Craft Research Fund of the Center for Craft, Creativity and Design. It was organized by the Museum of Arts and Design, New York City.

In Rochester, it is sponsored by Harter Secrest & Emery LLP, with additional support from the Mabel Fenner Lyon Fund, the Gallery Council of the Memorial Art Gallery, Ron and Cathy

Paprocki and Mann’s Jewelers.

M I D C E N T U R Y A M E R I C A N A R T A N D D E S I G N

F E B R U A R Y 2 6 – M A Y 2 0 , 2 0 1 2

(left to right): Isamu Noguchi, Akari 820 Lamp (1951–52), © 2010 The Isamu Noguchi Foundation and Garden Museum, New York/Artists Rights Society (ARS), NY., Photo by Kevin Noble;

Rick Turner, Pretzel Guitar (1969), Collection of the artist; Harry Bertoia (Knoll International),“Bird” Lounge Chair and Ottoman (after 1952), Private collection.


CELEBRATING FOOD – EVERY DAY.


www.deliciouslydifferent.com

WE ARE FRESH, UNIQUE, INNOVATIVE AND DELICIOUS.

Just like any great dish, your event demands the right ingredients. Not only do we use the highest quality

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WATCHESACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012

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MJCOMMUNIQUE

At the heart of Mann’s Jewelers is a commitment to customer service. For many generations, my family worked as repair craftsmen. In fact,

both my father, Irving, and his father, Al (a!ectionately known as Al the Watch Doctor), entered the jewelry industry as watchmakers.

In 2012 there are only two authorized Rolex watchmakers in Rochester, and they both work at Mann’s Jewelers. Our Head Watchmaker, David Strassner, is now celebrating his 30th year with Mann’s Jewelers. Here, he answers some important questions about caring for your fine timepiece.

RM: What first got you interested in the field of watch repair? DS: When I was 15 years old I started working at a small jewelry store washing windows, vacuuming and doing odd jobs. They taught me how to do minor jewelry repairs and engraving. Eventually their watchmaker asked if I would like to learn to repair watches. So I apprenticed with him, practiced, and studied watchmaking theory and history. I became fascinated with the technology of watches and how the development of timekeeping devices related to world history. Today I regularly attend trainings hosted by our premium Swiss brands to stay current with new technology.

RM: What’s done when a watch is serviced? DS: When a watch is serviced the movement is first removed from the case, then disassembled. All the parts are cleaned, worn parts are replaced, then re-assembled and lubricated using several di!erent oils and greases. We then adjust and time for accuracy. The case and bracelet are cleaned and sometimes refinished. The movement is then re-installed in the case and the watch is tested for proper function. On water-resistant models, the case is fit with new parts and pressure tested to restore it to factory water-resistance specs.

RM: Are some watches really waterproof? What’s the di!erence between water-resistant and waterproof? DS: Actually the term waterproof is too absolute. It leads most people to believe that water could not enter their watch under any circumstances. The term water-resistant is more accurate. Watches are not all constructed to withstand exposure to water to the same level. If a watch is used in conditions beyond its design capabilities, it can leak. Customers should purchase a watch that is water-resistant to the degree that fits their needs.

RM: Why is it important to buy from an authorized retailer? DS: A fine watch is an important purchase. Buying from an authorized retailer assures the customer of getting a watch that is new, not used; all the parts are genuine, none are counterfeit and the manufacturer’s warranty is valid. The customer will get exactly what they are paying for and expecting.

RM: What is the real value of the Mann’s Jewelers Ultimate Watch Warranty? DS: Mann’s Ultimate Watch Warranty shows our customers how seriously we stand behind their watch purchase. It gives them the peace of mind that we will be taking care of their watch for many years, while saving them money on maintenance and repairs. We estimate the average value of our warranty at about $600.

OUR PRESIDENT, ROB MANN, INTERVIEWS MJ WATCHMAKER DAVID STRASSNER.

TheRobReport

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FOCUS: WINDERS by Laurie Kahle

Like early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need forwinding, watch winders originated as practical items to keeptimepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience

factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. Theyensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout themechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system bylimiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking evermore elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasuresenergized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuringinlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor componentsand stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxuryfurnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—theultimate of which is a completely custom installation. (Continued)

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WINDING IT UPTRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

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©20

11 m

ovad

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oup,

inc. DEREK JETER. humanitarian, leader, athlete.

new series 800® chronograph.performance steel™ case.

black aluminum tachymeter bezel.black dial, leather strap.


Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and presidentof Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch fromhis wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated bythe need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved theproblem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, tokeep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist.Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests,and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was aconvenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned thatwhen a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricantscan wick away from moving parts, so keeping yourwatch on a winder is also about preventativemaintenance that can extend its life.”

Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed toaccommodate your ever-growing collection andcater to your personal needs. “It became a sort oflifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandablestorage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, ahumidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in theItalian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,”explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standardconfiguration—like buying a car and adding options.”

A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg ofAustria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand andtailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation.The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, displaycabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watchesand jewelry.

The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a modelproduced in partnership with Aston Martin. TheObject of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlesslycombines a safe, a collection of the brand’sproprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors,storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound systemwith a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and aflying minute tourbillion clock. The striking designemulates the muscular curves of the One-77supercar, which, like the winder, has a limitedproduction of 77 pieces.

The next level of watch storage is building acustom room, like the space commissioned by one ofOrbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,”

explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room(basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoyhis collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storageunits that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storagedrawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through thatkind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” saysAgnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eightmonths from concept to completion.

Luckily, you have options.

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Winders have entered the realm

of luxury furnishingswith an array of

options to create apersonalized unit.

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

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Watches to watch for

summer style

at Mann’s Jewelers

Swiss Army Chrono Classic in stainless steel. $595

TW Steel Grandeur Tech chronograph in rose gold vermeil

on leather strap. $1,095

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Lady Duetto with diamonds in stainless steel on articulated rubber strap. $12,000

Movado Bold in white TR90 composite material and stainless

steel on leather strap. $350

TAG Heuer Calibre 16 Heritage Carrera in stainless

steel. $4,300

MJTIMECHECK

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Breitling SuperOcean Heritage in stainless steel. $4,200

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II in stainless steel and 18k Everose gold. $25,150

All watches are shown at the manufacturer’s retail price

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona with diamonds and mother-

of-pearl dial in 18k white gold on leather strap. $80,350

Rolex Oyster Perpetual in stainless steel. $5,200

TAG Heuer Formula 1 with diamonds in stainless steel and white ceramic. $3,200

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FOCUS: WATCHMAKING by Karen Alberg Grossman

The first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone buildingnestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with astrong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the

lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in thisRolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemedprincipal Herman Mayer.

Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, andrespect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to developindependent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, ofcourse, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable,well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmakerof today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the high-end watch culture,” Mayer maintains.

His intense two-year program, establishedin 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totallyseparate from the Rolex Service Centerupstairs in the building). Mayer is personallyresponsible for creating and updating thecurriculum, which is also used at watchmakingschools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features sixmain areas of training: history/culture, micro-mechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer serviceand case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.

The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students(there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’san intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunchbreak) and requires much outside reading and research. According toMayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking intheir free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these twoyears, they pay for later on…”

Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoningto social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine

watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnoseproblems just visually. You need to analyzebased on input and output of the mechanism:it’s behaving a certain way so the problemmust be this or that. You can’t always see theproblem because many watches are built inlayers, so the movements might be covered,or else just too small.”

Mayer admits that among his greatestfrustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK

A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE

AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

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skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this,but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a veryvisual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything soyoung people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmakingcurriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductivereasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”

Why are these skills so critical? “Because evenif the student has worked on hundreds of watches,the next movement that comes along might betotally different than anything he’s experienced. Soit’s not a matter of simply learning to piece thepuzzle together: students need to understand whatthe parts do and how they interact and whether ornot the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rarewhen you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt waterdamage where parts are caked together), becauseeven if spare parts are not available, we can alwaysmake the parts. That’s what we teach them in the‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”

According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is mid-to late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 andmostly male; there are only one or two females perclass), in a second career but with some previousexposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had someexposure, at least they know what the profession isabout: having to deal all day long with these tinyparts, the responsibility of working on suchvaluable pieces. Of course, there are always somewho drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recentapplicants have included bankers and real estatebrokers, some from major cities. “People havemore appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates whowant jobs get them.”

Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and buildwatches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer,“It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, withmentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with importantdecisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of

the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in

Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focusedon philology and teaching. But at some point, hislove of watches inspired him to study watchmaking,which led him to servicing jobs in the States, andultimately to Lititz.

In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is acollector: he wears a different watch every day andfavors those that combine technical precision with abeautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititzprogram that he even lets his students work on hispersonal watches (excluding vintage handmadepieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was infact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course:Rolex watches are forever…”

His most meaningful watch is one he inheritedfrom his father. “When my dad returned from WWII,the economy was down so he drove a taxi onweekends. An American soldier who couldn’t affordthe fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it everyday for years but at some point, it was difficult to getreplacement parts because their factory had burneddown. Observing the watchmaker adapting spareparts by hand was my first exposure to the craft andits artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”

Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take theloupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue withmembers of your professional environment. You need to actively live theexciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

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“Nobody buysa fine watch justto tell time…” —Herman Mayer

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FOCUS: COLLECTING by David A. Rose

Among the many rewards of successin sports, perhaps the best isgarnering the respect and

admiration of fans and peers. But for thoseathletes competing in Rolex-sponsoredevents, the grand prize comes in the form ofa luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set forthemselves long before they’re strappedinto their racecars.

One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn,California, is a true champion in all forms ofmotor sports, with the additional honor ofhaving won more Rolex-sponsored racesthan any other driver. Thus, he has becomethe proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces.

Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also wonthe Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times andwas awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. Inall, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for hisbrilliant race wins.

“My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “WhenI won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and FordMotor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as theInternational Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to beinvited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I wereever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolextimepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California,and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on totake the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy myfirst beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruettalso bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)

As a world famous racecar driver stillat the top of his game, it’s remarkable thatPruett makes time for other ventures. Heand his wife Judy have joined forces toestablish Pruett Vineyard, as well as WordWeaver Books, publishers of a series ofchildren’s books they authored. Notsurprisingly, the theme is racing, includingtitles like Twelve Little Race Cars, RookieRacer and Racing Through the Alphabet.Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racingcareer, these books provide inspiration andexcitement for young readers.

As for his winemaking business,Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrumsapart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literallyminute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds.Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process;the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend ofchemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m notone of these athletes who puts my name on a project withoutinvolvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved inevery aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help ofsome incredible winemakers.”

Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has racedevery year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was anotherextraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-AmRolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece.“At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “sobeing the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted:I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.”

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TIME ON HIS SIDESCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.

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My heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartlydressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d beenholding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to

preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entireChristie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantlydressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetablesalads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.

In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused thevarious lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor hadtouched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, peoplepassionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendousinfluence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their ownwardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady wasour shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’“soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”

The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me mypaddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs tothe James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras,I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue fromthe “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac

pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had beenconsidering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was aFebruary Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection—including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyondcomplementing her violet eyes.

The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the“Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the“ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to securea lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time thebidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & ArpelsPisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsicvalue of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenanceand set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I wassadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!

As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasinglydejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, theprice was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander RockefellerCenter and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Lovebracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

LAST BID FOR LOVEAN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

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