MadridA Young Person’s Guide to

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First published in August 2011 by City Travel Review, Inc.All words and photos that appear in this guide are property of therespective writers and photographers.Copyright © 2011

Bienvenidos to Madrid!

Madrid is a fantastic city and well worth a visit. Whether you arestaying for a while or just make a quick stop. This guide will help youget as much as possible out of it as you will hopefully find what you’relooking for and make it a great stay!

This guide is the result of our three weeks together during the hottesttime in Madrid! Fourteen of us came from all over Europe for the ‘CityTravel Review’ project. We set out to work together to write a guideshowing everything Madrid has to offer, specifically focusing on youngpeople like ourselves. It was a fantastic time with excursions toneighbouring places such as Toledo, pub-crawls through the centreand even a bullfight! Although we all chose our own subjects to writeabout, we worked together to give you a complete overview ofeverything that there is to do in Madrid. Eating and drinking, palacesand museums, fashion and sports. Whatever you’re looking for and allMadrid has to offer, we will guide you to it.

Enjoy your stay in Madrid!

Your City Travel Review Team 2011

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ContentsPage 6-10 Introduction

- Top things to see and do

- Tips for Tourists

Page 11-30 Experience Madrid- Overview of Madrid- Accommodation for young people- Public Transport- Different ways to experience Madrid

- One Day in Madrid- Learning Spanish- Toledo

Page 31-49 History and Culture- History of Madrid- Historical monuments and architecture

- Palacio Real and Royal Theatre- Museums- Spanish Artists- Street Art- Literature

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Page 50-66 Things to Do- Flamenco- Shopping and Fashion- Nightlife- Live Music Bars- Parks and Leisure Time

Page 67-76 Food and Drink

Page 77-92 People and Life- Spanish Lifestyle- Siesta- Sports- Bullfighting- Famous People of Madrid

Page 93 Meet the City Travel

Review Madrid Team 2011

Contents

Disfrutenla!(Enjoy!)

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Top10

things to do inMadrid

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See a bullfightPerhaps the mostcontroversial ‘must see’attraction in Madrid, butalso one of the mostfascinating. For those whocan look past the barbaricnature of the sport, a

bullfight offers a unique insight intoSpanish culture and tradition. As the warbetween animal cruelty activists andSpanish traditionalists wages overwhether or not the bullfights shouldcontinue, (the sport has been banned inBarcelona and the rest of north Catalonia)it may not be long until bullfights arehistory. Not for the faint hearted, butmost definitely a ‘once in a lifetime’experience and well worth the visit.

Eat TapasTapas bars are abundant throughout Madrid, the secret is finding a goodone. Look for locals, dirty floors (yes! this is a giveaway of some of thebest bars in Madrid) and anywhere swarming with people. The queues forthe bar are well worth the wait for authentic local Tapas, chorizo, Spanishomelette and anchovies are some of the most common tapas. As thebarmen usually pick and choose what they serve you, there is little choiceover what you end up with so picky eaters beware, however for genuineSpanish food (without the frills) visiting a local Tapas bar is a must.

Take an open topped bus tourThis is one of the easiest and quickest ways to see a lot of Madrid in a short amountof time- perfect if you’re not in the city for long but want to see some of the mostrenowned sights Madrid has to offer. Frequent departures from numerous locationsmake the hop on-hop off bus effortless, as opposed to trawling the streets in the hotweather you can see the Palacio Real, Prado museum, Real Madrid stadium andseveral other notable locations from the comfort of an air-conditioned bus, with theoption of picking and choosing where you wish to visit. Several companies who offerthe service, and it is possible to jump on a bus from the bottom of Gran Via-however, for those looking for a guided tour and the ability to book in advance thePanoramic Madrid Tour offers a fantastic tour which is also surprisingly affordable.

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Try Churros con chocolateAs an avid food lover, and generalchocolate enthusiast, Churros conchocolate - a traditional Spanishdelicacy- was one of the mostmemorable parts of my time inMadrid, and most definitely a

legitimate reason for returning. For those ofyou who have never heard of churros, the bestway to describe them would be almost like adeep fried donut, served with a cup of hotchocolate sauce. Traditionally had as breakfast,it is not uncommon to see Spaniards with anorder of Churros con chocolate on their wayhome from a night out. Chocolateria SanGinés at Pasadizo de San Ginés in apassageway close to San Ginés church, west ofthe Puerta del Sol is one of the most famousplaces to find Churro’s, open 24 hours a daythere’s no excuse not to make a visit!

Take a ride on the TelefericoLocated at the heart of the Casa de Campo, the teleferico has beenaround for over 40 years offering an incredibly skyline view of Madrid aswell as a fantastic way to escape the city and relax in one of the oldestparks in Madrid (the Casa de Campo was once the royal hunting groundsand is now preserved as an endless park space used for cycling andwalking) despite the queues for a ride, the 4 euro return trip will take youacross Casa de Campo with an automated guided tour in either English orSpanish. The teleferico reaches a height of 40 metres and is an affordableand unique way to see the city.

Stroll through El RastromarketEl Rastro market islegendary in Madrid, on thesurface, the market seems tobe like any generic Europeanflea market- cheap jewellery,

fedoras, tourist t-shirts and guitar playingstreet performers, however dig a littledeeper and you will find cobbled streetsfilled with priceless antiques. From recordplayers to Louis Vuitton trunks, its easy tosee where El Rastro got its reputation is oneof the most unique markets in Europe. Thevintage accessories and paintings seemnever ending and each shop seems moreimpressive than the last- a word of warninghowever, these antiques are not cheap!Whilst it is possible to pick up old camerasand records for a few euro- many of themore unique antiques are in the thousands,nevertheless El Rastro is well worth a visit,even just for a look.

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Visit the Prado museumIt’s impossible to read a guide book and not read about the Prado, andafter visiting it, it’s easy to see why. Housing work by Velázquez, Goya,Raphael, Rubens, and Bosch, the Prado’s collections are as extensive asthey are impressive. It would take days to see everything the Prado hasto offer, which is why I would recommend planning your trip aroundspecific paintings you’re eager to see.

Visit the Royal PalaceMadrid’s royal palace is considered the most beautiful building inMadrid, and the largest. It’s easy to see why it’s such a popular touristdestination, with art, tapestries and several exhibitions as well asinsight into the lives of the royals its one of the grandest and mostinteresting places to visit. Open to the public almost all year roundand free on Wednesdays, there’s no excuse not to visit!

Watch FlamencoSpain’s famous passionate dance and live music performance thatyou cannot miss! Generally considered to be the dance of thegypsies, this 18th century Andalusia dance is still performed in thetraditional way: singing, dancing, hand clapping or poundingwooden sticks, and playing the guitar. It is really worth seeingartists performing it, as you will immerse yourself completely inthe authentic atmosphere, which really conveys the passion andemotion of such a vibrant culture.

Karina Stoltz and Francesca Bonetti

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Go on a Pub CrawlThis is one of the things werecommend to you in order toexperience different bars andclubs on the same night out –and to enjoy a properSpanish-style noche! A fewhostels organise pub crawls,

therefore they can differ a bit from oneanother. A very nice and popular one isorganised by a company called MADride,which includes various hostels so you can meetdifferent people. It usually starts at 11pm fromthe Bear and the Tree Statue in Plaza del Soland stops at several bars along the way, usuallyending at a club or sometimes a salsa bar.

The pub crawl stops at 5 different placesin total and the route varies, usually includinga club during the weekend. The total price forthis pub crawl, with one shot included in eachplace you stop, is 10 euros for the first timeyou join it, 5 euros the second time, and freefrom the third time on!

In general, to join a pub crawl you canask your hostel or just go to the Bear Statue inPuerta del Sol between 11 and 11.20 pm whereyou can easily find people offering youorganised pub crawls and get started.

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For madrilenos, it’s an historical symbol ofthe growth and origins of their city; for

tourists, it means just one thing: pub crawls.

Whilst many cultures queue and wait to beacknowledged, forming a proper queue is quiteunusual in Spain. In fact, Spanish people tendto mass together and therefore jump thequeue. This happens in shops, bars, bus andtrain stops, and all public buildings where a lotof people tend to gather together with noparticular order, and those who are in more of ahurry or simply louder get served first. Unlikepeople belonging to many other cultures whowill stand in a queue, quietly and patiently, inSpain they will strike up a conversation.Therefore tourists, and in particular those whoare more used to forming an orderly queue,should learn how to play the game and winduring their stay in Madrid!

The importance of direct contact is anotherpeculiarity of the Spanish culture, where socialinteraction is fundamental. This includes thelocal habit of introducing yourself and sayinggoodbye by kissing on the cheek and veryoften touching whilst talking as a sign ofapproval and establishing friendly contact (i.e.touching you on the shoulder). The atmosphere when you go shopping is of acontinuous social network, where people havetime for each other and speed does not really

matter. So even if Madrid is an extended capitalcity, here you do not get the impression thatpeople are stressed or in a hurry. Here you canalways find some very traditional corner wherethe common and widely-known Spanish spiritof being friendly and laid back is preserved.

As in many other tourist cities, pickpockets arealways waiting in ambush. This happensespecially in the most crowded and touristareas of the city such as squares and mainstreets, as well as on public transport andshopping areas.

Asking Spanish people for directions may betricky and confusing for tourists, as Spanishpeople seem to have a different and particularconception of distance! It is very likely thatwhen you ask local people for directions, youwill be told “Está justo al lado” (“It is just roundthe corner”), and after a while you may realisethe place is actually far away! Or it could be theother way round: you might be told a place istoo far to walk, when the place was quite closeand definitely walkable!

Leaving tips is a totally personal choice.Tourists may decide to leave tips, especially if

As Madrid is a city which attracts thousands of tourists throughout the whole year, a few usefultips will be really helpful - especially for those who are visiting the Spanish capital for the firsttime.There are hundreds of things to say about the Spanish culture which can be found in Madrid.However, the following are the most essential tips and distinctive features of Spanish people thatmight catch your attention. These are often very different from the habits of tourists, andtherefore they will be useful to know in advance.

Top Tips ForTourists

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Madrid Airport TransfersThere are many possible ways to travel from and to Madrid Bajaras International Airport. In par-ticular, the best options for young and dynamic tourists are:

BusExprés Aeropuerto (Airport Express), a 24-hour service which has only 3 stops after the airport:O'Donell, Plaza de Cibeles and Atocha (this last stop only during the daytime hours between 6 amand 11.30pm). Atocha is the main train station, with connections to the south and east. It is alsoclose to the main bus station.The buses run every 15 minutes during the day and every 35 atnight, the journey takes approximately 40 minutes. Tickets cost €2 and may be bought on board.There are stops at terminals T1, T2, T3 and T4.This new bus service stops more centrally than the metro and runs 24 hours a day. However, themetro leaves slightly more often and may be quicker, depending on where you want to go.To download the Airport Express information sheet in PDF visit:http://www.gomadrid.com/transport/Airport-Express.pdf. Tip: If taking several bus journeys, save money with the Madrid Travel Pass, which allows you totravel on any Metro, bus or suburban train, all included in the price of just €5, making it a greatway to save money on public transport. With this pass, it is not necessary to pay the airportsurcharge.

MetroMadrid's Barajas Airport has Metro stations in Terminal T1, T2, T3 and the newer Terminal 4. Trainsleave every 5 minutes from 6.00am to 2.00am. Line 8 goes straight to the newly reformed NuevosMinisterios Metro station, with a journey time of just 12 minutes. Here you will find a connectionwith over 50 other stations. The price of a single journey to or from the airport is currently €2,which includes a €1 supplementary airport charge. If you already possess a valid Metro ticket, youcan simply purchase the airport supplementary ticket for €1.

TaxiThis can be a convenient option for some, but expensive for others, and difficulties may arise dueto language problems. Pick one up from outside the airport and make sure it has a white taxi witha red stripe on its door - any other car is illegal and you will almost certainly get ripped off. Agreethe price before you set off and expect to pay about €25 to any central location.

Car RentalAll the major car rental companies are available in Barajas airport. Hertz, Europcar, Avis, etc. allhave offices between arrival halls 1 and 2 in Terminal 1. Costs may vary; however, it is oftencheaper to reserve your car rental before you arrive.

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ExperienceMadrid

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THE MANY FACES OF MADRID...Madrid is dividedinto a number ofdifferent ‘barrios’,each with its owndistinct character.Sol is the heart ofthe city with the

other areasclustered around it.A short descriptionof barrios which are

interesting fortourists is given

here as anorientation for first

time visitors.

SoL

The Puerta del Sol is the veryheart of the city and its mostimportant square. This lively areafull of shops, bars and touristattractions should be first stopfor any visitor. On the squareitself stands the bear statuewhich is the official symbol of thecity. Other must-sees in the areaare Plaza Mayor, Gran Via, Plazade España and C/ Alcala.

LaS auSTRiaS and La LaTina

The oldest part of the city with many small streets and ‘plazas’. It is also famous for having manygood tapas bars, plus the Sunday morning flea market ‘El Rastro’.

LaVaPiES

Lavapies is Madrid’s most multicultural neighborhood. Despite the many incidents of petty crimesin the area, no visitor should miss the experience of its characterful streets and exotic food.

Casa de Correos

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huERTaS and SanTa ana

Known as the place where many authors lived, it is still Madrid’s most theatrical area. The streetsare are pretty and around Plaza Santa Ana there is plentiful nightlife.

PaSEo dEL PRado

Madrid grandest Boulevard runs from

Atocha to Plaza de Cibeles, and the

Cibeles fountain is an iconic symbol for

Marid. The Paseo is lined with the many

important museums, such as the Prado

and Thyssen.

RETiRo

Madrid’s largest park. The park contains the Estanque, a boating lake, the Palacio Cristal (GlassPalace), and is a popular destination for an evening walk or daytime siesta.

SaLaManCa

Just north of Retiro, this is one of Madrid’s most elegant and expensive areas with many designershops and upscale restaurants.

ChuECa

This lively neighborhood north of Sol is nowthe gay and lesbian area of the city and thecentre of Madrid’s club-fashion scene, trendyand adventurous.

GRan Via

Designed to emulate the grand boulevards ofParis and New York, this is now Madrid’s mainshopping street. At the western end is Plazade España, a large square with a Cervantesmonument and flanked by high rise buildings.

MaLaSana and CondE duquE

Quiet residential neighbourhood north ofPlaza de España with some interestingmuseums. Bars and clubs offer entertainmentfor those who like it less frantic than inChueca.

Plaza de Españaaurelie Crombé

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Accommodation

Madrid can be an expensive place to stay; withcountless hotels as well as a huge hostel market, thereis something for everyone. This guide is focusing onhostels as there are more than enough to give you awide choice, and it is sometimes difficult to knowwhich ones are best for your needs without externalrecommendation.

When booking hostel accommodation it is best to useeither www.hostelworld.com orwww.hostelbookers.com, as these are the two best-known booking agents online. Hostel World charge abooking fee and therefore Hostel Bookers will alwaysbe 8.7% cheaper, although if you’re looking for aspecific hostel be sure to check both as some mayappear on only one of the sites. Overleaf is a list ofrecommended hostels, their facilities and generalatmosphere:

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Equity PointCalle de la Cruz 5, 28012 Madrid. Metro - SolT: +34 93 231 20 45: Bookings and modificationsT: +34 91 531 01 30: ReceptionWebsite: http://www.equity-point.com/en/hostels-madrid/equity-point-madrid/general-information-madrid-hostel.htmlEmail: infomadrid@equity-point.comPrice per night: From €15.75 - €23.00 in 5, 4 or 3 bed dorms.Bright, clean and welcoming hostel. Reliable as it is part of a chain with branchesin other European cities. One of the best locations around the corner from thecentral plaza Puerta del Sol. Common area, free internet, no curfew, 24hrreception and an information desk with activities such as a pub crawl and freesangria every night! Good for: reliability, partying, location, price.

Los amigos “Sol” Backpackers hostelArenal 26 4° Izq, 28013 Madrid. Metro - SolT: +34 91 559 24 72Website: http://losamigoshostel.com/indexe.htmlPrice per night: €17 dorm + shared bathroom, €19 dorm + private bathroomReally friendly hostel, comfortable with common area, spacious dorms and cleanbathrooms. Large kitchen with essentials provided, breakfast included andsuggested recipes on the wall! Great location, on a very main central street a fewminutes from Sol.Good for: location, space, atmosphere.

Pop hostelC/Espiritu Santo, 18 – 1a planta. Metro – Tribunal.T: +34 91 522 86 63Website: www.pophostel.comEmail: reservas@ pophostel.comPrice per night: €14 to €15 for 14, 6 or 4 bed dorms, €21 for private double room.Very large hostel, lots of international people. Good common area, kitchen andsitting room with television. Internet connection, although not always working.Good location in the trendy Malasaña district, but a bit further from the mainCentro.Good for: meeting people, friendly atmosphere, good rooms and helpful staff.

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Posada de huertasHuertas 21, 28014 Madrid. Metro – Anton MartínT: +34 91 429 5526Website: http://www.posadadehuertas.com/Email: info@posadadehuertas.comPrice per night: €20 for 10 bed dorm, €21 for 8 bed dorm. Always single sexdorms.The International Youth Hostel in Madrid; each bed comes with a plug socket –very useful! Kitchen and washing services available. Great location – Huertas areahas many bars and clubs for going out. Always a young crowd. 24hr reception,luggage storage, internet access and air conditioning.Good for: partying (pub crawl organised every night), central location, meetingyoung people and students.

RC Miguel Ángel Residencia Comunitaria & Casa de huéspedes San JoséPlaza de Celenque n.1, 4 Izq, Madrid. Metro – Sol.(Book through Hostelworld.com)Price per night: From €18 to €21 for 4, 6 or 8 bed dorms.Two hostels in the same building next door to each other, used a lot by Spanishvisitors to Madrid. Calm atmosphere, run by a really friendly and helpful family.Internet, good shower facilities, breakfast, air conditioning, kitchen facilities.Good For: relaxed visit to Madrid, location, meeting Spanish people.

Mad hostelCalle de la Cabeza 24, 28012, Madrid. Metro – Anton MartínT: +34 91 506 48 40Website: http://www.madhostel.com/Email: info@madhostel.comPrice per night: €19 to €23 for 10, 6 or 4 bed dorms, shared and ensuite bathroomsFairly new hostel near Centro and Sol area. Breakfast, sheet, lockers included.Wireless internet and free internet access. No curfew.Good for: location, partying, facilities included.

By Amanda Green

Public Transport in Madrid

MetroA sure way to save money in Madrid, if you like being autonomous, is by visitingthrough the public transport network. With its 12 Metro lines (plus the Ópera-PríncipePío Branch Line), 3 tramways and 216 bus lines, not counting suburban lines, virtually nopoint of the city and around it is too far away to visit.

If you like going out at night, you can count on 38 nocturnal lines, while the Metro isopen (with a few exceptions) from 6.00 a.m. to 1.30 a.m. every day of the year.A most important Metro line is the 8, which brings you directly to Barajas airport.Among the bus lines which might be interesting to use for a visit, we recommend line 1,that brings you to the city centre, and line 27, passing among other things the PradoMuseum and Santiago Bernabéu stadium.

The fares are quite cheap, compared to other European capitals. The single ticket for theurban area is €1. You can also buy a 10-travel ticket, which will cost you €9.30. It is validon the whole bus network, on the whole Metro network and on tramway 1. Aninteresting alternative is the Tourist Travel Pass, that will cost you €6 for a day in theurban area. See also “The Many Ways of Experiencing Madrid”.

For the airport ticket, there is a €1 surcharge.

useful websitesConsorcio Transportes Madrid: www.ctm-madrid.esMetro de Madrid: www.metromadrid.esBus network: www.emtmadrid.esCercanias:http://www.renfe.com/viajeros/cercanias/madrid/index.html

Cercanías networkThe short-distance rail network in Madrid consists of 9 lines. The mainstarting point is Atocha station, but if you plan a tour, just check if there issome other station closer to you. It is the best way to reach places of hightouristic interest such as Aranjuez or Alcala de Henares, but on Renfewebsite you can also find a variety of promotions, such as “Tren + Museo deCera” or “Madrid cultural axis”, with a tour of the cultural heritage betweenAtocha and Nuevos Ministerios (Prado, Reina Sofia, ArcheologicalMuseum...).

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Special TransportPublic transport in Madrid doesn't mean only Metro and everyday buses. It means also anattentive eye towards tourists and to whoever intends to visit the area. This means specificservices for specific needs. In our article “The Many Ways of Experiencing Madrid”(nextpage) we will meet the Tourist Bus, which brings the tourist in a tour of the city with achoice of two routes, historic and modern. We'll see now two other special services, ElAutobus del Zoo and El Tren de la Fresa.

El Autobus del ZooThis is a special service that EMT, the bus company, started in Summer 2010. It runs fromthe end of April till the end of September, and brings you to the Zoo-Aquarium from Casade Campo Metro station. It is active on weekends and holidays. Casa de Campo is a hugeparkland just two kilometres away from Plaza de Espana. It includes a boating area on thelake, cycle tracks, walking areas, cafes, the teleferico, zoo and the parque de atraciones. Thezoo is a large park hosting animals of all sorts, from dolphins to pandas.

More informationwww.emtmadrid.eswww.zoomadrid.comwww.lacasadecampo.net

El Tren de la FresaWe have just seen a service running during Summer. We're going to see now a serviceavailable only at the end of Spring and (roughly) at the beginning of Autumn. El Tren de laFresa, literally The Strawberry Train, runs on weekends from the end of May to the end ofJune, and then (for 2011) from September 10 to October 23. If you plan to make a tour toAranjuez (which you should, by the way) and happen to be around in one of these periods,this could be an exquisite way to travel.The €28 ticket might look expensive, but it includes:

- Return trip in the Historic Train. - Strawberries offered by hostesses dressed in period costume. - Theatre on board. - Transfer from the train station to the monumental area in air-conditioned coach. - Visit to the Royal Palace (guided) and to the Faluas Museum (free). - 50% discount at Museo Taurino (€1.50).

El Tren de la Fresa was born in 1984 to celebrate the route of the railroad which was the firstin Madrid and the second in the Peninsula. In all these years, its wooden cars, pulled by itshistoric locomotive, have transported thousands of travelers offering a unique experiencethat combines entertainment and culture.Beware, though: trains don't leave from a conventional station, but from the Museo delFerrocarril, and there is only one leaving, at 10 a.m. If you miss it, you'll have to wait till thenext day or, worse, the next week. So be punctual. And enjoy the strawberry tour.

More information: www.museodelferrocarril.orgBy Selene Verri

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The many ways of experiencing Madrid

Thought it was all Metro stations, tour buses andtaxis? Think again...

Madrid CardThis sightseeing pass not onlygives you access to over 50museums and monuments butalso includes guided toursthrough Madrid, a visit to theBernabéu Stadium (the football

stadium of Real Madrid) andthe Bullring, discounts in thecity’s main stores, restaurants,clubs, bars and shows andmuch more. You get aguidebook, a helpful city mapand an invitation to a typical

tapas bar. Furthermore, it isavailable in combination withthe Tourist Travel Pass or theMadrid tourist bus (see below).

Price: Between €32 and €85,depending on durationBuy from: Tourism Centre Madrid,airport, railway station, some hotelsand travel agencies or online at

www.madridcard.com.

Tourist Travel PassThis travel pass allows you touse all public transportservices in a certain region foran unlimited number ofjourneys within a valid timeperiod.

Price: Between €6 and €50,depending on duration and zoneBuy from: Regional TransportConsortium Offices, all Undergroundstations, tourist attractions, at sometobacconist’s shops and news stands,and www.esmadrid.com.

WalkingWe recommend youexperience the city by foot ascentral Madrid is definitelywalkable. You can beindependent, stop where youwant, enjoy a nice spot for afew minutes and always have a360 degree view. The weather

Madrid Tourist BusWith a hop-on, hop-off bus pass you can visit Madrid’s mostimportant sights via two routes in a very relaxing way. On the“historical route” you will pass the Royal Court, the famous streetGran Via with its buildings in varied architectural styles and otherbuildings and places like the Plaza Mayor or the Puerta del Sol. Whileenjoying the “modern route” you will pass by high-class buildings inSerrano Street, new neighbourhoods like Barrio Salamanca anddifferent residential zones. The buses pass the different bus stopsaround the city every 20 minutes, and the average duration of eachroute is 70-80 minutes.

Price: €17.50 (1 day) and €22 (2 days)hours: 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.Buy from: The bus itself, Tourism Centre, or ww.emtmadrid.com.

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is usually good and after allwalking is inexpensive,ecological and healthy. Guided toursMadrid Tourist Board’s"DISCOVER MADRID"programme includes guidedtours in seven differentlanguages which run the wholeyear round. Walking toursbring you to differentneighbourhoods (e.g. Chueca),cover key sights like thePalacio Royal or La Puerta delSol, show you some of thecity’s countless churches or letyou plunge into Madrid’sdramatic history.

Price: €3.90 (for walking tours,

bicycle tours and skate tours)

hours: different times between 10a.m. – 8 p.m.Buy from: Tourism Centre Madrid;

www.esmadrid.com.

There is also a free guidedwalking tour organized bySandeman’s new Europe Ltd.

While passing Madrid’s famoussights, walking down medievalstreets, across majestic squaresand through 1200 years ofhistory, you not only get to seeMadrid and learn more aboutits history, you are alsoentertained along the way.These young, charming anddedicated guides work on atips-only basis.

The free tours start in front of thetourist information at Plaza Mayoreveryday at 11 a.m. (in Spanish) and4 p.m. (in English). You do not haveto book the tour but simply can showup 10 – 15 minutes before at themeeting point.

www.newmadrid-tours.com.

GoCarGuidedTours

Have you ever wished to havea talking car as your tourguide? A trusty co-pilot onthree wheels that knows thecity like a local? Than youshould try the GoCar. UsingGPS technology, it indicateswhere to drive and tells you alot about Madrid’s buildings,the history and the culture.This humorous little yellow carspeaks six different languages

(English, Spanish, Catalan,French, German and Italian)and offers space for twopeople.

Visiting Madrid with the GoCarallowes you high flexiblity.There are planned tours,however, you decide what youwould like to see, in whatorder, what to skip and whereto stop for photos, to grabsome food or stay for a meal.You can rent your car by thehour or all day. Attention: avalid driving license (car ormotorcycle) is required!

(+34) 915 59 45 3510 a.m. – 7 p.m, in summertimebetween 10 a.m. – 9. p.m.;www.gocartours.es.

And now for the special ways to seeMadrid...If you are not that big a fan of walking, do not have much time or are lookingfor a unique and exciting experience, there are many different ways to visitMadrid and make the best out of your stay in Spain’s glorious capital!

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BikingThere are several ways to visitMadrid by bike, for example, byjoining one of the guided biketours by Bike Rental Madrid.They last around three hoursand take you along cyclingpaths, pedestrian zones andthrough parks. Get to knowMadrid’s must-see sights butalso uncover hidden gems. Youcan afford to be spontaneous;just show up at the meetingpoint and join the tour. Theguided tour is in English andstarts from March to Novemberevery day at 11 a.m. in front ofthe bike shop trixi.com in theCalle Jardines 12.

If you prefer to be moreindependent, rent a bike andexplore the city on your own.Bikes are too boring? Well, whynot trying a kickbike? This funvehicle (a combinationbetween a bike and a scooter)rides like a bike, and is assimple to use as a scooter.Soon, you will also be able tosee trixis in the streets ofMadrid. These two personthree-wheel taxi will offer youan entertaining way ofdiscovering famous sights andpretty streets.

Calle de los Jardines 12(+34) 915 23 15 47Metro station: Gran Vía; www.trixi.com

Segway toursGlide along on a nearlynoiseless, two-wheeled, self-balancing electric vehicle andenjoy the city. Soundscomplicated? Don’t fear -normally it takes between 10-20 seconds to learn to becomestable and only a few minutesmore to move around, turn,accelerate and stop. On thisrather more exciting thaninformative tour you will passMadrid’s most importantsights, enjoy a coffee or arefreshment during the tourand get a photo CD as asouvenir.

Attention: Reservations are onlypossible via the website, a deposit of€15 is required and the tours are onlyavailable in English.

(+34) 659 82 44 99www.madsegs.com.

Organisedtour with aclassic carAnother fun way to see Spain’scapital city is by booking aclassic car like the Citroën 2CVor the Dyane 6. SORTUR, acompany offering tours withthese cars, decided to use twotypes of Citroen, as this car leftan important foot print inSpain’s history. Since 1958, thePSA Peugeot Citroen has beenproducing several types of theCitroen in the Galicias port ofVigo. The cars used by SORTURare completely refurbished andin perfect condition. You canbook them with a chauffeurand concentrate solely onMadrid’s beautiful views. Orget a special kick out of drivingby taking over the driver’s job.Depending on the tour youbook, you can enjoy Madrid’shistorical or modern locationswithin one or two hours, seethe city by night, or even take amini road-trip to a placeoutside of Madrid (e.g.Chinchón, El Atazar or ElEscorial).

(+34) 679 40 62 43info@sortur.esMetro station: Plaza de Españawww.sortur.es.

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Teleferico(Madrid’scable car)

See Madrid from a bird’s eyeperspective and rediscover thecity from the sky! Yes, this ispossible during your cable car

ride, a 2.5 km-long journey at40m above ground. Within 11minutes you will travel fromthe heart of Madrid to its greenlung, the Casa de Campo.Views are great and an audioguide (available in English,Spanish and French) describespassing sights in a fun andamusing way. Even if you don’t

plan on staying in the Casa deCampo, the ride in itself is anexperience you should notmiss!

Paseo del Pintor Rosales s/n(+34) 915 41 11 18Metro station: ArgüellesPrices: €3.70 (one way), €5.35(return ticket)

nicole Grab

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A Walking Tour of MadridA Walking Tour of Madrid

Madrid’s centre has a manageable size, and although no one can see all the main sites inone day, it is possible to cover quite a number of them if you are willing to walk a bit. The itinerary below suggests a round-trip through the centre that includes some of themost beautiful streets and Plazas, as well as museums and the Palace.

1. Start the day at the Puerta de Alcala, and with a walk inthe Parque de Retiro, Madrid’s largest park. Don’t miss thePalacio de Cristal, the Palacio de Velazquez and the pond.

2. A short distance away is the Museo delPrado, one the world’s finest art museums.

3. After visiting the museum, walk up the Paseodel Prado, Madrid’s main boulevard, to the Plazade Cibeles. The marble fountain in the centre ofthe Plaza is an iconic symbol of Madrid.

4.Walk down C/ Alcala, one of the oldest and most beautifulstreets in the city.

5. You will reach Puerta de Sol, the very heart of Madrid, which containsboth ‘kilometro cero’ and the clock that sets the exact time in Spain. Also apopular place for public meetings and demonstrations.

6. Walking up C/ Preciados you will reach Gran Via.

7. Walk down Gran Via, a lively shopping street, until you reachPlaza Espana, where you can see the Cervantes Monument, theTorre de Madrid and Edificio Espana.

8. Cross the Plaza to reach the Jardines de Ferraz, and visit theTemplo de Debod, an original Egyptian temple transferred herein 1968. From the gardens you have nice views over the city andthe Palacio Real.

9.Walk south on C/ Bailen to the Jardines De Sabatini, a smallornate park next to the Palace, and the Plaza de Oriente, theelegant square between the Palacio Real and the Teatro Real.

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10. Visit the Palacio Real, the official residence ofthe King of Spain, which is partially open to visitors

11. Next to the Palacio is the Catedral deNuestra Senora de la Almudena.

12. Around the corner you can see the Muralla Arab,remains of the original Muslim city wall.

13. Cross C/ Bailen again and walk west through the Barrio LaLatina, the oldest area of Madrid, popular today for the numberof good tapas bars and the Rastro, the famous flea market.

14. Walk up C/ Estudios and C/ Cuchilleros until you reach the Plaza Mayor, the formermarket place built in Castilian baroque style.

15. Leaving Plaza Mayor on the south-eastern edge, walk downC/ Bolsa and C/ Huertas until you reach Plaza Santa Ana, thisarea is famous as the place where many authors lived, andtoday is a popular night life spot.

16. Continue on C/ Prado until the Museo Thyssen Bornemisza situated on the Paseo delPrado, which concludes the roundtrip through the city. By aurélie Crombé

Learning Spanish inMadrid

Why learn Spanish?

Spanish is a highly useful language toknow, there are 500 millions speakersworldwide and it is becoming increas-ingly important across the Westernworld. Not only will knowledge ofSpanish look great on your CV but itwill come in handy if you plan on trav-elling further afield!

You will be surprised to find that, de-spite being a capital city, the majorityof people you come across in Madridcannot speak English. Even in thetourist hotspots you will primarily bespoken to in Spanish.

The madrileños seem reluctant to tryto speak English and they will defi-nitely appreciate it if you have a go atordering your lunch in Spanish!

Visit the Instituto de Cervantes wherethey are in charge of the preservationof the Spanish language. They oftenhave an interesting free exhibitiongoing on in this quite spectacular build-ing.

Where to begin?

Language schools are the most obviousway to learn Spanish. In general, the levelof classes ranges from complete beginnerto almost fluent. Higher levels of classesoften take standardized DELE examswhich indicate the level of language profi-ciency.

Class sizes tend to range from 5 to 15 de-pending on the price of the course. Signup early to choose your dates; mostcourses begin every 2 weeks. Someschools offer discounts when courses arebooked in advance.

Check

what is included in the

price of the course eg. text books

and exams. Also there may be facili-

ties such as libraries or media rooms

where you can study. If not, Biblioteca

Ivan de Vargas is located near Plaza de

Mayor, it is a really modern, airy library

with helpful staff, study rooms and

Wi-Fi which you don’t have

to join to use.

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Alternatively...Not everyone wants to study from books and equally language schools may be expensive if youare on a tight budget. They are definitely not the only way to get in touch with the Spanish lan-guage in Madrid! You can:

-Become an au pair in Madrid. Create a profile or find a family on www.aupair-world.net.Spanish families always like English-speaking au pairs to expose their niños (kids) to English andyou will learn lots of Spanish in return!

-Find a language buddy. On the notice board of C.E.E. Idiomas you will find lots of native Span-ish speakers who want to find an English speaker to exchange languages with.

-Explore! Visit museums and make an effort to flick between the English and Spanish transla-tions. When you watch shows, go shopping or dine out, keep alert to the Spanish language andyou will be surprised as to how many new words and phrases you pick up!

Remember, integration is thekey! Immerse yourself into theSpanish culture - spend yourtime socialising with Spaniardsin the evening or diningamongst them in the authenticSpanish cafes off the touristtrack – and you will be thinkingin Spanish before you know it!

Turn over fora few keyphrases toget youstartedLanguage Schools in Madrid

Budget Choice: C.E.E. IDIOMAS Language School

This language school is in a great location, right next to thebustling centre of the Puerta Del Sol, with classrooms look-ing out onto the bustling streets. Daily classes are 1 or 2hours long and begin in the morning or evening so you canfit them around other plans. There tends to be a real mix ofnationalities in the classes so it is a great opportunity tomeet people from all over the world. Prices range from€89/month to €148/month.

Authentic Experience: Eureka

Prices begin at €200 for an intensivecourse of 20 hours. Students are en-couraged to stay with a Spanish fam-ily (which usually means renting aroom from a 60-65 year old woman).The room will always be somewhereclose by to the language school and at€110 per week you can come and goas you please or pay €245 and dinewith the Spanish family to enjoy theauthentic Spanish experience!

Popular Choice: Tandem, Escuela Internacional

Cheapest courses begin at €205/week. Look out for tai-lored classes specializing in business, art or cuisine. Tan-dem are also offering a ‘Spanish natural health weekend’which includes a week of learning Spanish and a relaxingweekend in a Wellness centre in the mountains of Madridfrom Friday to Sunday, including full board in an individualroom and 2 therapies. ¡Qué bonito! (How lovely!). Ex-tracurricular activities also involve visits to local museums,flamenco lessons and even excursions outside of Madrid.

Address: 6 Calle CarmenNearest Metro Station: Sol

Address: Calle del ArenalNearest Metro Station: Opera

Address: Marqués de Cubas, 8Nearest Metro Station: Banco de Espana

annabelRoss

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Useful Spanish PhrasesUse this helpful guide and you’ll be orderingtapas like a native...

Hello / HolaGood morning / Buenos díasGood afternoon / Buenas tardesGood night / Buenas nochesPlease / Por favorGracias / Thank youThat´s alright, you are welcome / De nadaGoodbye / AdiosCheers / SaludEnjoy your meal! / ¡Buen provecho!

I don´t speak Spanish / No hablo españolI didn´t understand / No le he entendidoWhat time is it? / ¿Qué hora es?

I would like.../ Deseo...Beer, red wine, white wine/ Cerveza, vino tinto,vino blancoBottle of water (fizzy/still) / Botella de agua (congas/sin gas)Soft drink / RefrescoCoffee, tea / Café, té

Ham/cheese baguette / Bocadillo dejamon/quesoToastie / SándwichChips/ Patatas fritasOlives / AceitunasOmelette / TortillaTuna / AtunSalad / Ensalada

Chicken, fish, prawns / Pollo, pescado, gambasFruit, ice-cream / Fruta, heladoStarter, main, dessert, drink / Primero, segundo,postre, bebida

**Especially in Madrid**:Squid sándwich / Bocadillo de calamaresStew / CocidoCod / BacalaoRich hot chocolate with churros / Chocolate conchurros

The bill please / La cuenta por favor

Greetings andcommon phrases

Eating and Drinking

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Hotel, hostel / Hotel, hostalCama / BedAir conditioning / Aire ancondicionadaI have reserved / booked a single room / Tengo una habitación individual reservadaDo you have a double room available? / ¿Tendría una habitación doble libre?Is breakfast included? / ¿Está el desayuno incluido?

One / UnoTwo / DosThree / TresFour / CuatroFive / CincoSix / SeisSeven / SieteEight / OchoNine / NueveTen / Diez

How much? / ¿Cuánto cuesta?Changing rooms / Los probadoresI am a size: small, medium, largo / Uso una talla:pequeña, mediana, grande

Car, bus, train, walking / Coche, autobus, tren, andandoDoes this train go to Sol? / ¿Este tren va hacia Sol?Where is the taxi stop? / ¿Dónde está la parada de taxis?Where is Serrano street? / ¿Dónde está la Calle Serrano?How do I get onto Calle 30? / ¿Cómo tomo la Calle 30?Does this bus go near the Gran Via? / ¿Este autobús va hacia Gran Vía?How do I get to Atocha in metro? / ¿Cómo llego en metro a Atocha?

Transport and directions

Accommodation

Numbers and shopping

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Toledo

70km south of Madrid, far fromthe hustle and bustle of busycity life, is the municipality ofToledo. With a population ofjust over 82,000 it’s acomparatively small yetthriving town, rooted inhistorical importance, whichenjoys some of the oldest andmost architecturally impressivebuildings in Spain. Declared aworld heritage site in 1986 forcultural and monumentalheritage, as Spain’s previouscapital Toledo receivesthousands of visitors a yearand with some of the moststrikingarchitecture, it’s notdifficult to see why.

Historically, Toledo is possiblythe most important- and themost eminent- city in Spain.Having been populated sincethe Bronze Age, it grew in sizeand wealth during the reign ofthe Roman Empire as thecommercial and administrativecentre of the province of‘Tarraconensis’ and served asthe Capital of Spain after thefall of the Romans until theinvasion of the Moors in the8th century. Toledo thrived asa large cosmopolitan city witha predominantly Muslimpopulation and, because of itscentral location in the IberianPeninsula, Toledo took a

central position in thestruggles between the Muslimand Christian rulers ofnorthern Spain. When AlfonsoVI of Castille, the self-proclaimed ‘Emperor of allSpain’ conquered Toledo andseized power, Toledo remaineda major cultural centre andduring the 16th century servedas the capital of Spain beforethe court was moved, first toValladolid and then Madrid-letting the city’s prominencedecline until the end of the20th century when Toledo wasdeclared the capital of theautonomous community ofCastille-La Mancha.

Spain’s previous capital, just 30 minutes from Madrid, is well worth a visit.

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From personal experience, Iwould highly recommendgetting a guided tour ofToledo. For €20, you canreceive a two and a half hourtour of the city’s mostworthwhile and celebratedsights. A tour is easily arrangedon arrival at the train station,or booked online atwww.guiastoledo.org.

Whilst guided tours can seemdaunting, hours spent trawlingthrough the steep and narrowcobbled streets of Toledoclinging to a map desperatelylooking for street names is farless pleasurable (particularly inthe middle of summer asToledo is renowned as havingthe highest temperatures inSpain.)

If you choose not totake a guided tour, there areseveral sights worth visiting onyour own. Primarily, the Museodel Greco. Recently renovated,the museum was originally

designed as a recreation of theartist’s home, setting theprecedent for what we nowconsider Spanish style interiordecoration. It houses severalimportant paintings as well asinformation on the artist’sturbulent life.

Not far from themuseum is the Santa Maria laBlanca another museum, andformer synagogue. Erected in1180 it is disputably the oldeststanding synagogue in Europe,built in a Christian ruled city byMuslims for Jewish use, it issymbolises the cooperation of

the three cultures that co-existed during the MiddleAges. Other importanthistorical sights include thePrimate cathedral of SaintMary of Toledo, thealacantra bridge, the alcazarfortress (currently the armymuseum) and the Castillo desan Servedo as well as variousother ruins and historicallysignificant buildings, that youwill no doubt stumble uponduring your time in Toledo.

I would suggest not visitingToledo on a Sunday, as severalmuseums are shut after 2pm orhave restricted opening times.Check the weather forecastbefore going during summeras the heat can proveexhausting! Toledo is anincredible city, and makes aperfect day trip to escape thefrantic comings and goings ofMadrid.

Karina Stoltz

Toledo cathedral

For approximately10 euros you can

catch a direct trainfrom ‘Atocha renfe’

and arrive inToledo in just over

30 minutes.

History and Culture

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A brief history of

Madrid9th Century -Mehmed I builds a small palace atthe site of the present-day Palacio Real.1085 - Alfonso VI of Castile conquers the citadel,and turns the mosque into the church of the Vir-gin of Almudena.1391 - A fire destroys the Royal Palace. Henry IIIof Castile rebuilds the city and establishes himselfin El Prado, just outside the city walls.1561 - Philip II moves the court - and thereforeSpain’s capital - from Toledo to Madrid.1716-1788 - The reigning Carlos III expands thecity, improving transport and accomodation, turn-ing Madrid into a more modern city.1833 -Isabel II inherits the throne. Despite a tur-bulent reign she remains on the throne until 1870.During her forty year reign, the city continues todevelop, and theatre and the arts flourish underher patronage.

1748-1819 - The people of Madrid revolt againstNapoleon. The massacres of the Spanish protes-tors by the French permanently damage Frenchrule in Spain and France's image in Europe.1814 - The War of Independence breaks out. Fer-nando VII returns to the throne, but remains inpower for only six years.1936 - The Spanish Civil War breaks out.1939 - Madrid is taken over by the Nationalists.1973 - The President of the Government Luis Car-rero Blanco is assassinated. 1979 - The monarchy is restored with Juan CarlosI as King.1992 - Madrid becomes the Cultural Capital ofEurope.2004 - A terrorist attack kills 191 people.2011 - Madrid is the scene of several anti-govern-ment protests, in response to rising economicproblems.

The People behind the PlacesCheuca: This barrio is named after composer Frederico Cheuca, who composed severalwaltzes in prison after being arrested for demonstrating against the government.

Malasaña: Named after Manuela Malasaña, a fifteen-year-old girl who died in the May 2nd1808 uprisings against Napoleon. She resisted rape and was arrested, eventually sentenced todeath for carrying a weapon - a pair of scissors.

Tirso de Molina: This Metro station is named after a poet, dramatist and monk, who led quitethe life. He is said to have written four hundred plays. Although his rivals called him a cor-rupter of public morals, but his fame has endured and he is now accepted as one of the bestSpanish playwrights ever.

o’donnell: Interesting mainly for its incongruity, the name of this Metro station derives froma nineteenth-century Prime Minister of Spain, Leopoldo O’Donnell y Jorris. He wasn’t a greatleader, and apart from the unusual Irish-Spanish combo, he’s otherwise pretty unremarkable.

alonso Cano: A painter, architect and sculptor, he too gives his name to a Metro station - al-though his story is far more interesting. He was very successful and painted for royalty, but heis remembered too for his wild temper. Apparently, he returned home one day to find hishouse robbed and his wife murdered - yet the courts found against him, due to his notoriousjealousy.

Rubén dario: A Nicaraguan poet who had a drinking problem and a tempestuous marriagewith his second cousin. He became involved with politics, journalism, and women, eventuallyattempting suicide, and suffered from hallucinations. He also managed to write some prettygood poetry, apparently.

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The Puerta del Sol, or ‘gate ofthe sun’ is so named because itwas once the site of a gatewhich faced the east and wasadorned with an image of thesun.

The gate was first built in thefifteenth century, but thebuilding now at the heart ofthe square, the Real Casa deCorreos, was originally built inthe 18th century. At that timethe square was the place to gofor news and gossip, thedestination of couriers all overSpain. The building, no longerthe Post Office, is now theheadquarters of the Presidentof Madrid's AutonomousCommunity.

The clock tower of the Casa deCorreos is the famous clock allSpaniards watch on New Year'sEve, counting down the chimesto midnight. Tradition dictates

that Spaniards must eat agrape with each chime of theclock - if they are successful,this indicates a fruitful yearahead...

The Puerta del Sol is alsogeographically significant forthe whole of Spain; a stoneslab on the pavement marksKilometre Zero, which is theofficial starting point forSpain's 6 National Roads.

Also in the square is thestature of El oso & Madroño,or The Bear and the Tree, whichis the official symbol of thecity. The origin of the statue,and the symbol, is unclear;however, it may be as simple asan allusion to the bears in thefields around Madrid and thetrees which used to growthere! It has been movedseveral times in its history, butnow stands where it was

originally intended to. It is thework of sculptor AntonioNavarro Santa Fe.

More recently the square hasbeen the home of thousands ofindignados, or protestors, whocongregated there in May 2011during regional elections todemonstrate theirdissatisfaction with thegovernment and the Spanisheconomy. The original campswere cleared by the police, butin late July the square wasonce more packed with tentsand stalls, welcoming marchersfrom all over the country. Themarchers, their act a responseto the country’s debt crisis anda demand for ‘real democracy’,were welcomed with the sign“Bienvenida dignidad”, or“Welcome dignity”.

hannah Shaddock

The Puerta del Sol:The Heart Of Madrid

El Palacio Realopposite the royal theatre, sloping downfrom ‘La Plaza de oriente’, you can find

one of Madrid’s must-see attractions.often mistakenly called the Palacio deoriente, it is Madrid's largest building

and possibly its most beautiful. it issurrounded by the beautiful Sabatini and

Campo del Moro, the (former) royalgardens parks.

as the second largest palace in Europe, itencompasses 1,450,000 sq ft includingover 2800 rooms, making it the largestroyal palace in Western Europe. it wasbuilt on the site of the old alcázar, a

Moorish castle of the islamic kingdom ofToledo, destroyed by fire on Christmaseve 1734. The site however, has beenoccupied since the 9th century by theMoors; who having named the city's

Manzanares river al-Magrit ("source ofwater"), referred to the area as Mayrit

which became Magerit, then Madrid. Theold city walls around this area may still

be seen.

When the fire destroyed the palace, theroyal family suddenly became homeless.it comes as no surprise then to see that

the entire palace is constructed of stone,eliminating the possibility of such a fire

ever again. The palace was initiallydesigned by Filippo Juvarra to

accommodate the court of Felipe V, atotal of more than 3000 courtiers. JuanBautista Sacchetti initiated the buildingproject in 1737, though construction didnot begin until april 7 1738. The projectwas finished by Francisco Sabatini andVentura Rodríguez terminated in 1755,

though it was 1764 before Carlos the 3rdbecame the first king of Spain to take up

residence there. Though Felipe V, hisfather, initiated the project, he sadly died

shortly before construction wascompleted.

in modern times, though the palaceremains the official residence of theroyal family, they currently live in elPalacio de Zarzuela, a more modestestate on the outskirts of town. ThePalacio Real is however still used for

state ceremonies; protocol for exampledictates that heads of state must be

received there. When Spain officiallyjoined the Eu in 1986, it was in thethrone room of this palace that the

signing ceremony took place.

Slightly less important functions are alsooften seen, for instance with chambermusic performances, the annual royal

prize-givings (when Spain won the worldcup in 2010 they were celebrated here),and many other smaller events. Thoughit is the royal family’s official home, thepalace is owned by the Spanish state and

administered by ‘El Patrimonionacional’.

although only a handful of the roomsare open to the public, they provide a

wonderful impression of life at theSpanish court, the luxuries they indulgedin and fantastic examples of a variety ofdecorative styles. amongst others one

can visit the throne room, royal armouryand pharmacy, Carlos the 3rd’s private

chambers and much more.

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Though much of the art and valuables wererescued from the fire of 1734, uncountablepieces were lost forever. Fortunately the palacestill boasts an exquisite wealth of art, with allkinds of fine materials used in its construction,and its rooms are decorated with artwork,including Flemish tapestries and paintings byartists such as Gasparini, Caravaggio, Velázquezand Francisco de Goya and frescoes by GiovanniBattista Tiepolo and Anton Raphael Mengs.

The paintings within the palace, thoughit is only a small collection, complements thecollection at the Prado, which was constructedas a place to house the royal collection. Bytaking part in a guided tour for a small extrafee, you gain access to several rooms in thepalace called the ‘Galerias de los pinturas’,which houses a small portion of the royalpainting collection including works by Goya andVelazquez.

Other collections of greathistorical and artistic importance that arepreserved in the building are the RoyalArmoury, Porcelain, Watches, Furniture andSilverware. Surprisingly it also hosts the world's

only complete Stradivarius string quintet! The dozens of valuables within, aside

from the building itself make the palace one ofEurope's most important museums and receivesmore than 880,000 visitors in 2006.

Below the palace, to the west, are thegardens of the Campo del Moro. The eastfaçade of the palace gives way to the Plaza deoriente and the Teatro Real opera house. Tothe south is a vast square, the Plaza de laarmas, surrounded by narrow wings of thepalace, and to the south of that is locatedthe Catedral de la Almudena. To the north arethe Jardines de Sabatini (Sabatini Gardens),named after one of the architects of the palace.

Similar to London, the Royal Palace ofMadrid has an official changing of the guardceremony on the first Wednesday of everymonth (except August and September) thecourtyard. A wonderful experience, quiteimpressive to see the mounted guard anduniforms and such, but keep in mind it’s onlymonthly if you want to see it!

aishwarya das

Contact details

Address: Calle Bailén, 28071Contact number: 91 454 88 00Website (in Spanish): http://www.patrimo-nionacional.es/Home/Palacios-Reales/Palacio-Real-de-Madrid.aspxBus: lines 3, 25, 39 and 148Metro: lines 2 and 5 (nearest station Opera)Trenes de Cercanías: Estación de Principe Pio

Opening Hours

Winter season (October through March)10.00 – 18.00 every day Summer season (April through September)10.00-20.00 every dayNote that the ticket booth closes an hour beforeclosing time.PricesGuided Tour 7€, Standard Ticket 10€, ReducedTicket 5€

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Madrid’s MonumentsChurches & Cathedrals

There are over 200 churches in Madrid alone, mostly Roman Catholic as 73% ofthe population identify themselves as belonging to this faith. Stuck for choice

on which religious monuments to visit? Take a look at our choices...

Madrid’s main cathedral is surprisingly new inbuild, having only been completed in 1993, 110years after construction began! Situatedcontroversially right next door to the RoyalPalace, it is often out-staged in beautyespecially as the Palace is the first sight youcome across on the regular tourist path. The architecture of the Palace is much more

extravagant - with good reason as no architectin Madrid dared to compete with that of thePalace. However unimpressed you are by thesubtle architecture on the side of the cathedralfacing the Palace, continue to walk down CalleBarlan and you will receive magnificent views ofthe Cathedral’s south facing side. Take thecable car to Casa de Campo for anotherbeautiful view of the cathedral against theskyline.

The neo-gothic interior of the cathedral ismodern and colourful. If you are interested inthe history of the museum and religious art, youcan enter the museum attached and climb up tothe dome of the cathedral for a great view ofthe city.

Almudena Cathedral

Visit the cathedral for free daily 9am-8.30pmand the museum Monday-Saturday, 10am-

2.30pm. Closed Sundays and holidays.Prices

General admission: €6. Reduced: €4

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Templo de Debod

Originally built on the Nile Valley in Egypt, thistemple was dedicated to the god Amun and thegoddess Isis. In 1970, as the temple wasthreatened to be destroyed by the Aswan Dam,it was carefully dismantled and sent on a boatfrom Egypt to Valencia, and then on a train toMadrid. It was considered as a gift from Egypt,thanking Spain for helping them save theirprized UNESCO site Abu Simbel from the risingwaters.

It is one of the few pieces of ancientEgyptian architecture outside of Egypt and is astriking contrast against the surroundingskyscrapers and cobbled streets of Madrid.Surrounded by placid waters the templeprovides a moment of peace and serenity away

from the bustling centre of the city.Interestingly, the linear complex of the

temple is orientated so it lines up exactly withthe ancient Egyptian obelisk located in theVatican Square in Rome. Situated on top of thehill in the Parque del Oeste, the temple offerssome of the best views across the city and inparticular of the Almudena Cathedral. Visit thetemple at sunset for some great photos!

If you have time to visit more churches, the following are recommended:San Jeronimo Real Church has a particularly picturesque exterior and is conveniently located nextto the Prado museum. Real Basilica de San Francisco El Grande is 5 minutes from the RoyalPalace and the garden next to it has beautiful views. If you are in the Chueca district, visit theConvent of the Salesas Reales which has the most impressive interior, but be careful you don’twalk in on a wedding though as it is one of the most popular churches to get married in!

annabel Ross

opening TimesTuesday-Friday 8am-2pm and 6pm-8pm;

Saturdays and Sundays 10am-2pm.

nearest Metro Station: Plaza de España

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El Teatro RealThe Royal Theatre of Madrid stands as an architectural monument with its hexagon shape. Itsits on an exquisite location in front of the Royal Palace and directly between two squares:Plaza de Isabel 2nd and Plaza de Oriente.

With the capacity to seat up to 1748 people, it is both an elegant and state of the artopera house, well worth a visit during your stay in Madrid. A beautiful, neo-classical building;its stage is home to world-class ballet, classical music and opera performances. Moreover, thebuilding’s colourful history includes its claim for hosting the 14th Eurovision Song Contest in1969, storing gun powder during the civil war and serving as a dance hall.

The original design was from 1818, by the architect Cuatodio Moreno, for a 3-storybuilding. Though in modern times the fly-tower, which houses the mechanics for the stage, isaround 74 meters; the equivalent of 22 stories. The interior of the main structure of thebuilding is perfectly symmetrical, and as such deceiving as to the size of it. More importantly,it is completely soundproof, providing a welcome calm from Madrid’s busy centre.

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The Teatro Real wascommissioned after the Cañosdel Peral Theater wasdestroyed. Due to a range ofissues however, it would stilltake nearly 32 years for it to becompleted! Though progresswas slow and often halted, onMay 7th 1850 Queen Isabel2nd gave a Royal Order for the“immediate termination of the‘Orient Theatre’”. The buildingwas finished in 5 months andfinally opened on the 10th ofOctober the same year.Unfortunately the structurehad to be closed in 1925 forsecurity reasons, and wasunder renovation until itsreopening as a concert hall in1966. It was still not, howeverthe opera hall as we know ittoday. After furtherrenovation Madrid’s stunningOpera House reopened forgood in 1997. It now boastsfantastic acoustics, worthy ofits reputation as one of the

most prestigious opera housesof Europe. Its magnificent opera hall hasvelvet red seats, gold gildeddecorations and a stunningchandelier.

Its Italian inspiration isquite clearly from its horse-shoe shape. The overall style ofthe building is 19th centurySpanish luxury. On a optionalguided tour you have theopportunity to see differentlydecorated lounges. All roomshave unique carpets, beautifulwallpaper as well as tapestries,busts, sculptures and paintingsof famous singers, dancers andcomposers. Take a lookespecially at the room full ofportraits of Spanish kings.

Perhaps most unique ofall; every room has a differentchandelier, though nonesurpass the one in the operahall itself. Weighing in at 2.7tons, it is 4.5 meters indiameter, showing off the work

of a workshop right here inMadrid! The building’s beautifularchitectural style, interiordecoration and fascinatinghistory make the Royal Theatrea must-see attraction inMadrid! Guided tours areavailable and last for about 50minutes. More information onthem is available below.

Music lovers can alsosimply attend an event at theopera house as the theatrestages around seventeen operatitles (both own productionsand co-productions with othermajor European opera houses)per year. Additionally, there areusually two or three ballets andseveral recitals. Both theMadrid symphonic orchestra aswell as the choir, functionindependently of the theatre,but are under contract duringthe theatre seasons.

aishwarya das

Guided tours: Tours take place every half an hour, with a minimum of 10 people or a maxi-mum of 25. The tour takes you through: main entrance, main lobby, 5 rooms on the second

floor, restaurant, the cafeteria and the opera hall. They usually last for about 50 mins. Forgroup visits please contact the theatre at: 91 516 06 96 or info@teatro-real.com

Times: Monday to Friday: 10.30 – 13.00 Closed Tuesdays.Tickets can be purchased at the ticket-windows, between 10.00 and 13.00 on the day.

Prices: Standard: 5 €, Students, young people (up to 26), and over 65’s: 3 €, Under 7: FREE

Restaurant: If you wish to enjoy the theatre further it is possible to lunch and dine in thetheatre restaurant. Glass windows spotted along the walls show costumes from previous

performances and the elliptical dining area in the centre sits under a reconstructed sky withthe exact positions of the constellations of opening night. If you do go, try to spot the little

red light that depicts Mars!

Shop: Monday – Friday: 10.00-20.00 Saturday: 10.00-14.00

40

Madrid’s Golden TriangleFor anyone coming to Madrid hoping to see a bit of culture - whetherinterested in art, history, or a bit of both - there are three places thateveryone will tell you to visit: the Museo del Prado, the Museo Reina Sofia, andthe Thyssen-Bornemisza, also known as the Golden Triangle of Museums. Ifyou have a whole day free and money is no object, then you can certainly doall three in a day. If you’re short on time or money and can only choose oneor two,this guide will help you choose which ones you can’t afford to miss...

hannah Shaddock

The Prado is the oldest and most famous, andunsurprisingly the most traditional, at least in termsof the artworks it houses; the interior may seemmodern, but the building itself is actually around200 years old.

Its collection is the most traditional andarguably the most Spanish of all three museos, dueto its royal origins. It is one of the most visiteddestinations in the world, and with good reason -the Prado’s full collection contains over 7600paintings, thousands of sculptures, prints, and otherhistorical and artistic documents (not all of them areon show at once!).

NAVIGATIONFinding what you’relooking for is relativelystraightforward - themain attractions aremarked clearly on themaps, which you canfind at variousinformation pointsaround the museum,and there are plans youcan take with youaround the museum tohelp you navigate. Thewebsite also hassuggested routes forone, two and three-hourvisits.WHEN TO VISIT

The Prado is free foreveryone every daybetween six and eight,except on Sundays,when it’s five until eight;however, it’s free anytime if you have astudent card. If youarrive promptly at sixexpect to queue, but toavoid waiting in the heatget there a little later. It’sgenerally not too busyin the evenings and themuseum itself is keptvery cool, a perfectescape from the sun. DON’T MISSVelázquez’s Las

Meninas and his manyportraits of royalty;almost everything byGoya, but particularly Eltres de mayo en Madrid,Tobias y el ángel,Saturno devorando a unhijo and his Cristocrucificado, and formore Spanish masterstry El Greco and Josede Ribera. Check outnon-Spaniards Rubens,Raphael, Tintoretto,hieronymous Bosch,Caravaggio and Titian.

INFORMATIONopening hoursTues-Sun, 9am-8pmFree 6-8 every day, 5-8 on Sundays.

PricesGeneral: 10€Reduced: 5€(8€ and 4€ for entryonly to the permanentcollections)

address:Calle Ruiz deAlarcón 23, Madrid28014Telephone:(0034) 913330 2800Website:http://www.museodelprado.es/ennearest Metro: Bancode España

El Museo del Prado

41

The Museo Reina Sofia is a littlefurther down the Paso del Prado, andagain is located in grandsurroundings, next to the RoyalConservatory, and its modern facadehides a pretty courtyard, completewith fountains and modern scultpures.

Its collection is generally quitemodern, with the earliest works datingfrom 19th century. Permanentcollections are located on the fourthand second floors - temporaryexhibitions are varied, but usually verygood, and at least worth a look.

It is free every weekday from 7-9 - free hours vary at weekends.

NAVIGATIONSlightly trickier than theother two. Potentialdifficulty arises with theenigmatically-namedrooms. Instead look forspe cific artists or dates.There are attendants inevery room and helpful-looking people behinddesks around the museowho will to point you inthe right direction.

WHEN TO VISITAgain the Reina Sofia isalways free for students,and for everyone fortwo hours in theevening, between sevenand nine, and slightlylonger at weekends (seeinfo). Again you maywant to arrive a littlelater - queues haveusually dispersed by halfpast.

TO SEEPicasso’s Guernica;Salvador dalí’s manyworks, and fellowSpanish Surrealist oscardominguéz; JoséGutierrez Solana’s TheBishop’s Visit, GarrotteVil by Ramón Casas,and drawings andwatercolours by Luisquintanilla. Therearealso works byKandinsky, Joan Miró,and Pierre Bonnard.

INFORMATIONopening hoursMon-Sat, 10am-9pm,Sunday: 10am-2:30p,closed Tuesdays.

PricesGeneral: 6€Reduced: 3€

address:52 SantaIsabel Street,28012 MadridTelephone: (0034) 91774 10 00Website:http://www.museoreinasofia.es/index_en.htmlnearest Metro:Atocha

Lastly there is the Thyssen-Bornemisza, just opposite elPrado, the newest and perhaps the least well-known ofthe three museos. It was originally built up as a privatecollection, and is therefore more varied than the othertwo, containing works from almost every major artist -and artistic movement - from acros the centuries.

The collection was acquired by Spain for $350million in the 1980s, and was opened in its currentlocation - the 18th century Villahermosa Palace - in1992.

There is something for everyone here, with lessof a Spanish focus, with artworks dating from the 13thcentury right up to the 20th century.

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia

The Thyssen-Bornemisza

42

NAVIGATIONMaps are available andsimple to follow,antouch-screens to findthe location of specificpaintings; the works arearrangedchronologically and asuggested route ismarked on the maps,although you can makeyour own way round.You can take your time,but even at a leisurelypace you can get roundthe collection in 2 hours.

WHEN TO VISITIt is never free, but theentrance fee is reducedby 50% for students andother concessions. Itstemporary exhibitionsare usually very good,and worth paying a bitextra to see.

It’s particularly busy atweekends; go later toavoid crowds.

TO SEELots! degas’ GreenBallerina, hans holbeinthe Younger’s Portraitof Henry VIII, Edwardhopper’s Hotel Room,Roy Leichtenstein’sWoman in the Bath,Claude Monet’s CharingCross Bridge, andRembrant’s Self-Portraitwearing a hat and twochains are just aselection of the many,many famous works onshow.

INFORMATIONopening hoursTues-Sun, 9am-7pmClosed Mondays.

PricesGeneral: 8€Reduced: 5.50€

address:Palacio deVillahermosa, Paseodel Prado 8Madrid, 28014 Spain Telephone: (0034) 91369 01 51Website:http://www.museothyssen.org/en/nearest Metro: Bancode España

But these are by no means the only museos worth visiting inMadrid. There are 27 in total, but to help you pick which ones

might interest you, here’s a quick rundown of the best of the rest...

Museo de la Academia deBellas Artes (pictured)C/ Alcalá, 13, 28014 Madrid

(0034) 915 240 864

Nearest metro: Sol

Museo de RomanticismoC/ San Mateo, 13. 28004 Madrid

(0034) 914 481 045

Nearest metro: Tribunal

Museo MunicipalCalle Fuencarral, 78, 28004 Madrid

(0034) 917 011 863

Nearest metro: Tribunal

Museo ArcheológicoC/ Serrano, 13, 28001 Madrid

(0034) 91 577 79 12

Nearest metro: Serrano or Rétiro

43

Pablo Picasso, Guernicaand the Spanish Civil War

Madrid is a great and flourishing city which hasgot a lot to offer, whether its visitors areinterested in art or not. But whoever walksthrough its streets can feel its wealth of art andhistory from the very beginning. The Spanishcapital illustrates a great deal about the country’shistory, even in its most hidden corners, where somany different artists used to perform in the past

centuries, and are still performing nowadays. Thishappens in particular around the museums, wherethe majority of the art is preserved. And it iswithin these astonishing and historical buildingsthat one of the most famous and evocativepaintings of the 20th century is preserved: theGuernica by Pablo Ruiz Picasso, in the Museonacional Centro de arte Reina Sofia.

This name does not only evoke a famous artistor work of art. Picasso is a legend, almost amyth. In many aspects, he is the symbol ofmodern art. He can be named among thosewho reproduce, through their art, theheterogeneous and sometimes chaoticexpressions of the culture, creating somethingtotally evocative and, at the same time,intangible.

He was a Spanish painter and sculptorborn in Malaga in 1881 (1881-1973), widelyknown for co-founding Cubism - a 20thcentury avant-garde art movement thatrevolutionised European art - and for otherstyles and artistic movements that he inspired.

Picasso

Even though he lived most of his life in France,Picasso demonstrated extraordinary artistic talentsince his early years. For this reason, and because hewas a supporter of the centre-left RepublicanGovernment during the Spanish Civil War, opposedto the Nationalists, he was commissioned by theSpanish Republican government to create a largemural for the Spanish display at the ParisInternational Exposition in 1937.

Its aim was to depict the Spanish Republicangovernment’s struggle for existence, and to bringthe Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) to the world’sattention by showing the tragedies and thesuffering war inflicts upon individuals, particularlyinnocent civilians.

At the beginning Picasso did not know whatto paint in order to accomplish such an importanttask. However, on the 26th of April 1937 Guernica, atown in Basque country, was bombed by Germanand Italian warplanes, as ordered by the SpanishNationalist forces. As a response to this first attackupon civil people in Europe, Picasso started paintinghis most extraordinary and evocative work of artwith the name of the homonymous city, which hefinished by mid-June 1937.

Painting the Guernica

44

Guernica

It is a mural-size canvas painted inoil (3.5 metres tall and 7.8 metreswide) and it is the most well-known painting of the 20thcentury. It is grey, black and whiteand it shows people and animalssuffering and buildings destroyedby violence and chaos.

Its structure is a triptych,namely in three parts. The centralpart is occupied by a horse fallingin agony and a frightened femalefigure which have floated inthrough a window, carrying aflame-lit lamp, perhaps a symbolof hope. The painting is arrangedin triangles, where the central isthe most important one andwhose base is the body of thedead soldier and the lamp is thevertex.

The lack of colours can beseen as the lack of life and hopeduring the civil war and the wholepainting, because of itsdimensions and the many figuresthat it hosts, can seem to be quiteconfusing at first sight. In fact,although Guernica embodies for

many the inhumanity, brutalityand hopelessness of war, itsinterpretations vary widely andcontradict one another. It must beconsidered as a combination ofreal historical facts, arts and politics.

However, historical factshere are only evoked in anindirect way -apart from thename, there is no direct referenceto the bombing of Guernica or tothe Civil War. Picasso wascommissioned to represent all theterrible tortures the Republicanpart of Spain was going through.And he did it; but in a verysymbolic way, the painting ahistorical symbol of people’s fearcaused by war, an allegorical andevocative composition of all thesefeelings, thoughts and events.And this is exactly what Picasso’sstyle is in this period, whichsymbolises the lack of balanceand security.

Other paintings by Picassoor by others of that period, suchas Dalí, Miró, Dominguez, etc., can

be found in the same section ofthe Museo Reina Sofia. They allexpress the loss of values and thelack of safety typical of thehistorical period of the Civil Warand they are all extremelyevocative, symbolising conceptsand rather than giving a directrepresentation of reality. Art was a form of protest duringthis time, a way to make peopleconscious of all the atrocitieshumanity was going through, asthat was the only means artistshad to express themselves andtheir incertidumbre. And Picassowas one of the main, if not themain, representative of this newform of art.

Picasso and thesymbolism evoked by hisGuernica constitute somethingfundamental for the Spanishculture and for the concept of thewar, and therefore his popularityand the importance of his work ofart will never fade.

Francesca Bonetti

45

Spain’s Classic PaintersSpain has a rich history of art, spanning over many centuries and the City of Madrid is a great place to get a

taste. The city showcases much of the best of Spain’s most influential artists including Goya, Velázquez, El

Greco, Dalí and Picasso as well as many other great works of art from around the world. Home to some of

Spain’s most prestigious galleries and museums, including the Prado and Reina Sophia, Madrid is the

perfect place to introduce or expand your knowledge of Spain’s classic painters.

Goya (1746-1828)

Renowned 19th century painter Francisco de Goya yLucientes produced many of Spain’s most importantimages. Some of his most famous works include“The Second of May - The Fight Against theMamedukes” and “The Third of May - The Executionof the Defenders of Madrid”. These particularpaintings show with frightening clarity theirrationality and mass of emotion relating to man’sability to inflict violence on each other and to bepushed to fight to the death. Both of these paintingscan be seen at the Museo de Prado.

While there visitors can also see Goya’s “The BlackPaintings”, named for the use of dark pigments andblack but also for their evidently sombre nature.

These paintings were done as murals onto the wallsof his home “Quinta del Sordo” (“House of the DeafMan”) which he bought in 1819. They weretransferred to canvas after Goya’s death.

This collection includes one of his most famousworks “Saturn”, argu ably the most powerful piecesin the collection, showing Saturn devouring one ofhis children; it was based on the Greek myth of TitanCronus who believed he would be overthrown byone of his children so he ate them upon their birth.Goya was 73 by this time and it is believed thatthese paintings reflect that the artist was concernedwith his own mortality. The collection came to thePrado in 1881 but had to undergo restorationbefore finally being put on display in 1889.

Diego Velázquez (1599 - 1660)Diego Velázquez is certainly one of Spain’s mostrevered painters. Beginning his career in Seville,the city of his birth, Velázquez quickly developedan original composition style and developed thetechnical mastery that made his works so famous.In 1623 he relocated to Madrid where he wasappointed as court painter to King Phillip IV andso his style adapted to comply with thecharacteristics required for formal court paintings.

Las MeninasVelázquez's most famous work Las Meninas,showing the family of King Phillip IV was moved tothe Prado from the Royal Palace when the museumopened in 1818. Around 60% of his collectioncurrently is housed at the Prado. This painting isone of his most influential works, inspiring the likesof Picasso who developed a series of 58 paintingsinspired by it and is a must-see for art lovers.

46

Where To See Them

There are still two Velázquez paintingshanging alongside the likes of Goyaand classical French and Italianpainters in the Palacio Real deMadrid, which can be seen if you wishto take the tour while you visit. It is anextra 2 euros on top of the standardticket price of 8 euros but is well worthit.

You can also find Velázquez’s works inrooms 9a and 10-15 within the Museodel Prado.

Also hanging in the Palacio Real deMadrid are five works by Goya who,like Velázquez, was a court painter tothe Spanish crown.

His works can be found in rooms 32,34-38, 64-67 and 75 of the Museo delPrado. Some of his earlier sketches canalso be seen in the Museo de laacademia de Bellas artes, just off thePuerta del Sol.

El Greco and Jose de RiberaTwo other Spanish artists thatare definitely worth mentioningare El Greco (1541-1641) andJose de Ribera (1591-1652).

El Greco’s work “La Trinidad” -“The Holy Trinity” was his firstcommission, an altarpiece forthe Convent of Santa Domingoel Antonio in Toledo.

For particular fans of theartist, there is an El Grecomuseum in Toledo (Paseo delTránsito, s / n 45002 Toledo)about half an hour’s train ridefrom Madrid.

Jose de Ribera created a seriesof eight paintings of The

Apostles in 1630; these types ofpaintings were very popular atthe time of the CounterReformation.

They are characterisedby usually being half-lengthportraits on neutralbackgrounds the most notablebeing “St Bartholomew” and “StPeter”. All these works can beseen at the Prado also.

So if you’d like to spend sometime strolling through coolgalleries to escape the heat fora while Madrid is the perfectplace!

Lisa MacLeod

47

Madrid is well known for its classical art,particularly in the Prado museum, as well asits contemporary collections in the ReinaSofía. But there is a whole world of streetart or graffiti that inhabits some of thenewer areas of the city. From a designaround someone’s keyhole on their frontdoor to a piece that covers one entire wallof a building, graffiti can be found in manydifferent forms.

The street that started the wave of graffiti-covered shop shutters in Madrid is CalleGeneral Álvarez de Castro in the district ofChamberí. El Colmenero, a travel agent onthis street, was the first to accept an offerfrom a boy who said he would paint hisshutters. The next thing he knew, half thestreet had paid the same boy to paint theirshutters as well. Usually the design isrelated to the shop; for example the shuttersof the old academy of art has an urbanversion of Guernika, combining the modernand the traditional arts that you can see inMadrid.

In Malasaña it is possible to see countlessexamples of street art: Plaza 2 de Mayo andits surrounding streets are home to manymurals as well, but if you are interested inurban art it is almost better not to look forit, and that is when you stumble across thegems. Travelling to a new city is alwaysexciting because part of the fun is gettinglost and discovering things you would neverhave seen otherwise. This is certainly thecase in Malasaña and some of Chueca aswell, its neighbouring and famously gaydistrict.

Near acacias metro station in the southerndistrict of arganzuela there is a lot ofgraffiti on shops, walls and around the parkarea and the public swimming pool. This isjust a short walk down the hill when youcome out of the metro.

If you want to have a go yourself andcontribute to some of Madrid’s graffiti, theworkshop of urban art “El Keller” inLavapiés is a space for artists to bringmaterials and ideas and “take over thestreets”. Every Tuesday at 6pm there is aworkshop where you can learn more aboutstreet art, get involved and feel part of anurban art crew. The workshop is also openfor public viewing every day from 7pm-11pm.

Street art originates from the street, createdby the city’s inhabitants, and therefore thereis no better way to get under the skin ofMadrid than to understand its people andjoin them in learning about street art andwatching first-hand how it is done.

amanda Green

MADRID’S STREET ART

48

LiteraryMadrid

The Barrio of Santa Ana, thearea between C/ Atocha and C/Alcala, is a nice area for a walk,offering small streets withhistoric residential buildingsand pretty tree lined Plazas.Nicknamed ‘Barrio de Letras’,this is where the authors ofSpain's Golden Age lived andthere are several places wortha visit for those interested inliterature.

Starting on the southernedge on C/ Atocha, there is atnumber 87 the MuseoCervantino, where the printingpress on which the first editionof Don Quijote was printedonce was. On the front is abronze relief of Don Quijote.

Walking up C/Desamparados, a side street toAtocha, at the junction withC/Moratin you come across thePlazuela de San Juan, whereLeandro Moratin, dramatist,translator and poet, was born.Continuing on C/Desamparados up toC/Huertas, at no 29, thebeginning of Don Quijote isinlaid into the street surface, asare several other famousquotes all along this street.

On C/ Huerta lies thePlaza Matute where you canfind a beautiful old bookshop,Desnivel, which specializes intravel.

At the western end of C/Huertas is the C/ San Sebastianwith the Iglesia San Sebastian,where plaques commemoratethe writers baptized, marriedor buried here in the groundsnext to the church where nowis a florist.

Crossing Plaza de Angel,

one reaches Plaza Ana (above),a lovely square with severalbars, among them theCerveceria Alemana, whereRamon del Valle-Inclan, aninfluential dramatist of the20th century, and ErnestHemingway were regulars.

The Teatro Español,dating back to 1745, stands atthe eastern side of the Plaza. Just next to the theatre beginsC/ Prado where at No. 21 is theAteneo, a private culturalinstitution with a library,exhibition hall and archives.The architecture is impressiveand there are portraits of thegreat Spanish authors ondisplay.

Turning south on C/Leon and then left onto C/Cervantes one finds the MuseoCasa de Lope de Vega in thehouse in which the writer livedfor 25 years. On show is atypical 17th century privatehouse as well as several objectsthat belonged to Vega himself.

Vega is considered somethingof a Spanish Shakespeare. Inhis lifetime he wrote almost2000 plays.

Parallel to C/ Cervantesruns C/Lope de Vega, whereyou find the Convento de lasTrinitarias Descalzas, whereCervantes was originallyburied, although his remainshave since disappeared. Cervantes’ influence onSpanish language andliterature was huge, andstatues of Cervantes or hisfamous character Don Quijotecan be found in Plaza deEspaña and the Congreso deLos Diputados among others,and reference to the story arefrequent in all sorts ofcontexts, from historic fabricsto modern abstract statues.

In the same street as theConvento is the house whereQuevedo and Gongora lived,both poets, bitter rivals, andcontemporaries of Lope deVega. The house is marked bya plaque.

The best way to learn about the city’s impressive literary

heritage is to retrace the steps of its most famous writers

Casa Museo Lope de

Vega

Opens Tuesday-Sunday

10am-2pm, closed Mon-

day.

Visits must be

arranged in advance

and are only by tour.

Admission is free.

Tel. (0034) 914 299

216

49

Hemingway’s MadridWestin Palace hotelPlaza de las Cortes 7.Hemingway stayed hereand the hotel bar fea-tures in ‘The Sun alsoRises’.

The Wellington Societyoffers tours on historicaland cultural subjects, in-cluding on Hemingway,check offers on www.well-soc.org

ToursThe official tourist boardorganizes tours on literarysubjects, currently only inSpanish. Times given onthe webpage are not al-ways up to date, so checkin the tourist office onPlaza Mayor and buy tick-ets in advance.

El Sobrino de BotinRestaurant in a small streetbehind Plaza Mayor, whereHemingway was a frequentguest, even cooked thereonce himself, and whichalso features in his book“The Sun also Rises’. Thefront is decorated with apicture of him.

Madrid’s BestBookshops

There is a wealth of bookshops in Madrid. Below is a

selection of those that are interesting for English

speaking visitors.

Casa de LibrosTwo large bookshops withsome English books and Span-ish learning material. Gran Via29 and C/ Maestro Victoria,open 9.30-9.30.

JJ Books and CoffeeSmall Bar with a decent selec-tion of second-hand Englishbooks on sale in the basement.

Just around the corner ofMetro Noviciado in C/ EspirituSanto 47.Opening hours change eachmonth but can be checked on-line at www.jandjbooksandcof-fee.com.

BooksellerSmall English bookshop inC/Fernandez de la Hoz 40,Metro Iglesia, 9.30am-2pm,5pm-8pm Mon-Fr, 10am-2pmSat.

PasajesVery nice bookshop with agood selection of fiction andnon-fiction books in severallanguages including English,German, French and Spanish.Also language learning mate-rial. C/ Genova 2, Metro Alonso

Martinez, 9.3am- to 21.30Mon-Sat.

C/ Claudio Moyano is linedwith the Mercado de Libros, arow of kiosks with second handbooks, Metro Atocha.

desnivel (above)Plaza Matute, Metro AntonMartin, 10am-2pm, 4.30pm-8pm Mon-Sat. www.libreriadesnivel.com

Aurélie Crombé

Museo del Biblioteca Na-

cional

The Biblioteca collects

every work published in

Spanish. It has three

million volumes.

Paseo de Recoletos

20,Metro Colon. The li-

brary is open for multi-

media tours on 10am-8pm

Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun,

Admission is free.

50

Things to do

51

THE HISTORyFlamenco dancing began inAndalusia in the late 18thcentury, and is generallyconsidered to be the dance ofthe gypsies due to the themesexpressed within the music,and the minimal usage ofprops and instruments.

The key elements offlamenco are: cante (singing);toque (guitar playing); palmas

or jaleos (hand clapping –sometimes replaced by thepounding of a wooden stick);and of course, dance. If youreally want to experience thedance in its most traditional,non-commercialised form, Isuggest travelling outside ofthe main city to watch aninformal dance session, knownas a juerga (festivity).

THE DAnCEThe flamenco at Cafetín LaQuimera is an excellentexample of the traditionaldance mentioned above. For€8 (including 1 drink of yourchoice), you can enjoy anentirely improvised show, andif you are feeling brave (orinebriated!) enough, you areinvited to join the performerson stage to play, dance or singflamenco! It is a highlyenergetic performance thattakes place nightly

until the early hours of themorning, and it did not fail todisappoint, nor did the playersshow any signs of flagging.

Having gone with littleexpectation, it took me a whileto adjust to the singer’s voice,with which there was no fault,rather just the markeddifference to what I (in my un-cultured position!) am used to.To understand my point, youreally must experience this foryourself; by way of descriptionthe tone was raw with anArabian-like quality, which isrepresentative of this genre.Once my initial surprisedisappeared

I was mesmerised by theintense, and at times, ferociousguitar playing; you do not needto be a native speaker ofSpanish to understand thedepth of emotion conveyed bythe music and song – just lookat the dancer’s face. On thisnote, each movement of thedance is so intricatelyperformed (a specific exampleof this being the definition ofthe hand gestures), that youwill be astounded at the factthat this is an improvisedperformance! I believe thepoise differs in a juergaperformance to those that aremore commercialised; you willnotice rapid movements suchas the arching of the back andtwisting of the torso, whichgave a rougher quality to thedance than that which maygenerally be associated withflamenco.

In this traditional form offlamenco, the costumes wornare plain and representative ofthe origins of the dance andthe earthy themes evoked bythe music. Do not expectbrightly coloured, frillycostumes here! As a word ofadvice, avoid sitting near thefront of the stage, as you willsoon be hit by the dancer’s hairclips which quickly fly off asthe lively dancing begins!

Take the time to visit a flamenco show whilst in Madrid, and you too will

be filled with the fire evoked by the passionate dance and vibrant music...

Flamenco“to have the quality of fire”

Performers at Cafetín La Quimera

52

This style of flamenco appealed to meas I wanted to watch a show which hadnot been choreographed or adapted toappeal to tourists. However, if the latteris preferred, you will not be short ofoptions offered by the TouristInformation Office or the manyadvertisements which can be foundaround the city. The most easilyaccessible forms of flamenco availablein the main city are the theatricalperformances, which although use theflamenco technique are closer to balletin presentation.

CAFETín LA QuIMERAAddress: Calle de Sancho Davila 34, Madrid,28028Opening hours: 15:00 (for food and drinks –flamenco begins as 22:30) until 3:00Price: €8 including 1 drink (for flamenco)nearest Metro station: Manuel Becerra(lines 2 and 6)Buses: 12 and 146Telephone: (0034) 91 356 93 61

TEATRO REInA VICTORIAAddress: Carrera de San Jerónimo 24,Madrid, 28014Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday per-formances are at 19:00 and 21:00. Sundayperformances are at 19:00Price: €15 on Tuesdays and Wednesdays;€20 – €25 Thursday to Sundaynearest Metro station: Manuel Becerra(lines 2 and 6)Buses: 3, 5, 15, 20, 51, 52, 53, 150Telephone: (0034) 91 360 06 40

Address: Plaza Mayor 27, Madrid, 28012Opening hours: 9:30 – 20:30 dailyWebsite: http://www.esmadrid.comnearest Metro station: Sol (lines 1, 2, 3) orÓpera (lines 2, 5)Buses: 17, 18, 23, 31, 35Telephone: (0034) 91 58816 36

Where to go...

53

Where to shopin M ADRID

Designer and

boutiques

Madrid has two main

streets that the world’s

fashion designers call

home. Great names such

as Chanel, Louis Vuitton

and dolce and Gabbana

all congregate on

the corners and side

street between Calle de

Claudio and Calle

Serrano; Calle de Jose

Ortega y Gasset Also in

the vicinity are Giorgio

armani, hermes,

Versace, Valentino,

Prada, and Jimmy Choo.

In the surrounding area

other boutiques are also

worth a visit.

agatha Ruiz de la

Prada is a colourful and

quirky Spanish designer

whose items are fairly

affordable, especially in

the traditional sales of

the summer months.

These famous names are

worth a visit if you can

loosen your purse strings

more than a little.

54

Vintage and Alternative

Begin on Calle San Benardo with Muleya, ashop with clothes at a steal, and especially cutejumpsuits. Then work your way up Calle deLuna, which is home to the vintage store F.a.q.Housing beautiful Vintage clothing andjewellery, provocative images from the 40’s and50’s are dispersed throughout the décor.Continue onto Corredera Baja de San Pablo, toFeminsa-objetos Perdidos, which offersvintage clothes as well as knick-knacks and a

wide variety of alternative printed t-shirts. Alsomake sure you visit La antigua Shop, on Calledel Pez, which is a beautifully quaint offering,selling unique clothes and jewellery.

Other recommendations are The deli Room,which specializes in Spanish designers and hasan original layout, and Lotta Vintage(http://www.lottavintage.com/en/). These andmany others in these side streets are open from9-2 and 5-9 (approx).

To be found on Calle de Fuencarral are manyalternative, punk style shops, as well as somebeautiful but not inexpensive boutiques. One inparticular, YoKana, is situated on Calle AugustoFigueroa and has some exquisite items, and abeautiful collection of scarves, priced at around35 euros each.

However, the true cave of wonderscomes in the form of Mercado Fuencarral, onthe street of the same name. Inside is an openplan shopping mall maze, taking you from onesmall shop to another. Most of the ground floorhas alternative style shops, and a fantastic openplan lounge bar, almost merging with the

clothing. However, it is the top floor that reallycaptures interest. The top floor is home to railafter rail of beautiful, quirky clothing. Somevintage inspired, some vintage itself. Kling isboth of these, stretching out over almost half ofthe top floor. You can visit their website atwww.kling.es/campaign.

Another delight is Plazita Serrano withcute dresses, jewellery and imaginative displays:http://plazitaserrano.blogspot.com. There ismore of the same from Pepa Karnero, whichfrequently display shoes that play homage toVivienne Westwood's 'Melissa' shoe, for only€15.

to find Madrid’s alternative and vintage offerings you must be prepared to hunt forthem. Go in the morning or the evening tocatch the Vintage shops that, fittingly - justlike the vintage spanish culture - value thesiesta so highly!

lA antiGUA

55

AFForDABLeFAshionhigh street

shopping

Madrid’s high streetshopping experienceencompasses all theEuropean favourites.Between Gran Via andthe Puerto del Solthere are two streetsfull of the high streetchains. Calle de Car-men is home to MissSixty, Shana, Pimkie,Symbolo, Zara,Mango and Bershkaand the department

store El Corte inglés.The latter three canalso be reachedthrough Calle de Pre-ciado, whichalso hasSfera,Spring-field,Blanco,oyshoand h&M.

However if h&M isyour destination, for-get the Calle de Preci-ado and instead headonly yards further upGran Via to find H&Mparadise. Enter andyou find yourself in abeautiful building, its

grand entrance show-ing clothes sparsely onrails as if a boutique.Not only is this store

much larger with amuch better

layout, it isbeautifuland includesgrand stair-

cases (don’tworry there are

escalators and lifts also) andstained glass windows.Although a mere highstreet shop, one feelsas if they have steppedthrough the dressingroom to a designerNarnia.

el rastro

h&m on GrAn Vía

in some

shops, such

as Zara or

h&M, you may

be able to pay

in pounds if

you are pay-

ing by

card.

56

Madrid’s

Markets

El Rastro is a largestreet held marketevery Sunday andPublic Holiday, from9am to 3pm (toavoid the crowds gobefore 11am). Thereare the usual marketstall goods;bracelets andearrings, stall afterstall of woven bagsand scarves, andrip-off designersunglasses.

However, if youdelve a little deeperinto the fray you willdiscover treasures

hiding in thecobbled side streets.Beautiful antiqueslaid out on blankets;chairs, clocks,birdcages and oldleather trunks.

Also on offer areunusual andbeautiful necklaces,which are stylishand original. Othermentions belong toa stall selling thincotton dresses, topsand shirts, allindividual andeffortlessly chic, andanother boastinghand sketchedpictures.

Tapas is the foodon offer in theside streets(standing only),

and keep yourbag close to you as

the market is knownfor pickpockets.

El Rastro StreetMarket is definitelyworth a visit, but, tomake the most ofthe quirky andquaint offerings, besure to stray off thebeaten track!

Also worth a quickbrowse is the smallmarket situated inthe Jardines dePlaza de España, theMuestra deartesania, heldfrom 7th July until

7th August eachyear and open10am-10pm.

Although small, itholds a wealth ofstalls consistingmostly of jewellery,from handmadewoven braceletsfrom €1 to €5, to silkand silver braceletsstarting at €20.

Aboveand below:el rastro

street Mar-ket, held

every sundayand fiestas,

from 9amuntil 3pm

to get to elrastro, get

the metroto La Latinastation,

and headsouth.

Follow thecrowds -you will

soon findit!

57

el MuseodeL traje

if your purse needs a break from the shop-ping, how about a visit to the Museo deltraje, or the Museum of CostUMe, to learnmoreabout spanish style through the years.

El Museo del Traje (Museum of Costume) tellsthe history of western fashion from the 16thcentury up to the present day, with hundreds ofpieces on display. The museum is home tosome early iconic designs by internationalfashion couturiers including Jean PaulGaultier, Gabrielle Chanel, and Christiandior, and Spanish designers CristóbalBalenciaga, Pedro Rodriguez and ElioBerhanger. Also on display is a beautifulcollection of wedding dresses, some worn byfamous faces, the other dresses made by them.The history of dress exhibit is enchanting andwonderful; think the V&A on a more intimatescale.

The Museo del Traje also plays host toimpressive temporary exhibitions (admissionfree). Presently on display is the work of artistBadri Lomsianidze. The exhibit includesphotographs and paintings made using a rangeof different techniques. Lomsiandze in this

exhibition used clothing as an art, centred onthemes ‘culture and costume, fabrics andtransparencies, and portrait and canvas’.Lomsianidze indeed sets the bar high for futureimaginative exhibitions.

Note that the musuem’s main guidecomes in languages other than Spanish (theman on reception queried me with “English?” towhich I nodded and was handed the Englishbooklet), however the programme and guide tothe outdoor exhibition were both in Spanishonly. The visual aids around the history of dressexhibit have both a Spanish and an Englishoption. However having limited knowledge ofSpanish does not tarnish the experience, as onebecomes immersed within the visuals.

El Museo del Traje’s history of fashion is anenthralling means with which to while away amorning or evening, and the temporaryexhibitions truly enhance the imaginative andcaptivating experience.

Josie England

Price: €3, certain concessions apply, or free entrywith the Madrid Tourist Card.

opening hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday to Satur-day it is open 9.30am-7.30pm, Sundays and PublicHolidays 10.00am-3pm.

nearest metro: Moncloa or Ciudad Universitaria.Cuidad Universitaria is slightly closer, but it is a 15minute walk from Monloca Station through theuniversity’s beautiful and tranquil greenery.

For more information visit: http://museodel-traje.mcu.es/index.jsp?lang=eng.

58

Madrid’sNIGHTLIFE

Madrid’s nightlife is incredibly varied –it is not just nightclubs. There issomething to suit all tastes, ages andinterests. If nightclubs are not yourthing, don’t worry, there is analternative night culture within Madridsuch as coffee cafes and Tapas bars.Tapas bars are extremely popular inSpain and a lot of the nightlife takesplace here. They are situatedeverywhere, are inexpensive and anenjoyable way to start your evening.

Once out, you are spoilt forchoice of pubs, clubs and bars thatMadrid has to offer. The Madridnightlife offers anything from themore expensive commercial clubs, to

Irish pubs and Salsa bars. If you areunsure where to go, head to PuertaDel Sol, located at the very heart ofMadrid, where you will be bombardedwith flyers advertising clubs and bars,usually offering a free shot or drink.

Once you decide where to go,the promoter will take you to theclub/bar where you pay an entrancefee. You may be given a stamp or avoucher which will entitle you to thefree shot/drink.

In a limited amount of time, Itried to experience a bit of everythingthat the nightlife of Madrid had tooffer. Read on for my experiences andrecommendations...

Madrid has commonly been described as the “City that never sleeps” and frompersonal experience, this is no exaggeration. as the nightlife within Madrid isextremely diverse it would simply be impossible to summarise all aspects of

the nightlife in a two page article. however, the aim of this article is to reportmy personal experiences among the fiesteros (party-goers) in the clubs and

bars within the capital city of Spain when the sun sets...

On my first night out in Madrid, I began byentering a delightful Irish pub suitably named“O’Connell” situated on Espoz Y Mina, a streetjust off the Puerta Del Sol. I did not try its food,

apparently the “Best Irish food served in allMadrid,” I did however order a Jarra de Sangria(which turned out to be a rather large jug ofSangria suitable for sharing) for only 12 euros.For a cheap place to begin your drinking beforeyou move onto a nightclub this bar is ideal.Shots are 1.50 euros whilst spirits and cocktailsare 4.90 euros. The atmosphere is vibrant andthe music was chart hits therefore recognisable.

Moving on, I then entered a lively cocktail barnamed Commo again situated off of the PuertaDel Sol. Although labelled a cocktail bar it alsohad a dance floor on both levels. You areentitled to a free shot if you enter with apromoter of the club and spirits and cocktailsare averagely priced at 5- 6 euros. Theatmosphere is great as a result of the variety ofgood music played (Commo has a live DJ) andthe clientele. It attracts both locals and touristsand is a great place to make friends with otherstudents.

One night I fancied trying something a bitdifferent, so I headed to one of the notoriousSalsa evenings Madrid had to offer. I ended upin a Salsa bar named El Son. It is situated atCalle Victoria 6, 28012 Madrid again just off ofSol. Entrance fee is 5 euros for women and 6euros for men, this includes a free cocktail. Theatmosphere of El Son is energetic to say theleast. Upon entrance, your ears are filled withthe rhythmic beats of Salsa music as you are

surrounded by enthusiastic dancers. If you arefemale, you will most likely be asked to dance. Ifafter a few sips of your free cocktail you feel alittle more confident I suggest you try somesalsa dancing it is great fun! If however salsareally isn’t your thing then this bar isn’t for you.

Finally, I wanted to try one of the bigcommercial clubs so I headed off to Pacha. Aword of warning, this is not a cheap night out!Entrance fee is 15 euros plus one free shot.Another piece of advice is to drink before youenter the club as drinks are 12 euros and shotsare 5 euros.

Prior to entrance, you will be instantlyimpressed by Pacha’s large size, its name lit upin bright lights and the doors supervised bysmartly dressed (although rather surly looking)bouncers. There are three levels to this club, allwith different music played with several barsand sizeable dance floors. However, myexperience of Pacha was slightly disappointing.Perhaps my expectations were too high orperhaps I went on the wrong night (I have heardfrom several people that Saturday is the bestnight), but I could not see past the expensiveentrance fee and drinks. Also, because I went ona rather quiet night they did not open the otherdance floors which probably played a significantpart to my disappointment. As a result, I wenthome fairly early.

59

All in all the nightlife in Madrid is great fun.

What is brilliant about the Madrid nightlife is

its variety - whether you’re in the mood for

eating tapas and drinking Tinto Verano,

salsa dancing the night away or partying

until the early hours of the morning- you will

find it here. As a result of the short amount

of time I had, unfortunately I could not

experience everything that Madrid had to

offer, however I did learn that every night

out you are guaranteed an enjoyable time,

the only downside is the morning after

hangover!

Things to remember: The nightlife in Madrid

begins late. The Spanish usually do not eat

until 11 PM, before moving onto other bars

or clubs, which are open until 6- 7AM. No

one enters a club before 1.30 PM; if you do,

you’ll probably be the only one in there!

Also, when partying with the Spanish, you

must pace yourself! The Spanish tend to eat

Tapas whilst they are drinking and can

therefore continue to party throughout the

night. It is unusual to see drunken Spanish

people staggering around the streets.

One night in Madrid...A pub crawl is a great and inexpensive way to experience the hot- spots ofthe Madrid night-life whilst making new friends along the way. This article is

about my particular experience of a pub crawl with a company namedMADride who organize pub crawls every night in Puerta Del Sol from 11 pm.

On a Saturday night in Madridyou are never stuck withoutthings to do. This nighthowever, my friends and Idecided to try one of the manypubs crawls witilly titledMADride claiming to provideus with “3 MAD bars, MAD freeshots, MAD drinks and freeentry to 1 MAD club.” Charmedby its attempts to make uslaugh with its play on the word

Madrid, my friends and Idecided that this was the pubcrawl for us.

The evening began at 11pm atthe meeting point- the famousBear and Tree Statue in PuertaDel Sol. All we needed to donow (according to the leaflet)was to look for a “crazy guidewearing the red MADride T-shirt” and so we did. At 11.05

pm our “crazy” guide turned upsuitably wearing the red t-shirtand a smile on his face. “Areyou all English?” he shouted ina distinctive Latin accent. “Sí,”we replied. “Are you ready toparty?” “Sí,” we replied again.“What a great group we have!My name is Alberto (not hisreal name) - follow me to thefirst bar where we will meet theothers!” He then beckoned usto follow and began to walkaway holding up a red signsaying MADride in yellowletters.

Alberto led us awayfrom the Puerta Del Sol to ourfirst bar named Cibelessituated on Calle Hileras. Justoutside the entrance of ourfirst destination, Albertostopped and told us the pricesof the pub crawl. As it was ourfirst time we had to pay 10

60

euros each. After payment, weall received a stamp on ourwrists; this would entitle us tofree entry to the bars and anydiscounts on drinks.

Entering Cibeles, I quicklyrealised it was more of a discobar. The dance floor was quitesmall however the music waschart hits, and thereforerecognisable. As it was fairlyearly (the Spanish are normallystill eating their dinner at 11.30pm) it was relatively quiet.

However, this just meantI was more likely to be servedquickly at the bar, so I tookadvantage of my discount, andordered a Vodka y Limón for 3euros. At around midnightmore people from otherhostels joined the pub crawl.The majority were quite young,I’d say around the age of 20-25, and very friendly. Once weall got talking, I realised thatthey were from all around theworld: Mexico, Brazil, Argentinaand America. In fact, we werethe only English people there,which made a refreshingchange. After midnight it was

tequila time. When the burningsensation in my throat hadstopped and my eyes hadceased watering, we movedonto our second bar.

The second bar was called La

Comedia. It was a much largerbar then the previous one andplayed catchy R n B music.Towards the back of the barthere was a swanky “chill out”area with white soft chairs andShisha pipes. My friends and Iplaced ourselves upon thecomfy chairs and split the costof a shisha pipe (12 euros)between us. The atmosphere ofthe bar was incredibly chilledas we puffed on our shishapipe whilst singing along to“What’s My Name” by Rihanna.

Around 1.30am we made ourway to the final bar of theevening, called Sol & Sombra,however it was equally a clubas it was bar. I was extremelyimpressed by its glamorous,modern décor of all white wallsand fluorescent pale blue andlilac lights. It had a sizeabledance floor which my friendsand I graced with our presenceonce the Black eyed Peas song“I’ve Got a Feeling” came on. It was 3.00am when Albertoshouted “time to go!” androunded us all up to go thefinal destination of the night-the nightclub. However, we didnot end up in a club; insteadwe were led to the salsa bar ElSon.

The salsa bar was goodfun but we did not stay long.By 4.00am we were ready toleave and craving greasy food-preferably pizza. We said ourgoodbyes to Alberto (whotried to convince us to stay)and exchanged numbers orFacebook details with our new-found chums and headedtoward the nearest pizza place.

Toni Toms

La Comedia’s web-site:http://lacomedia-

madrid.com/

Pacha’s website:http://www.pacha-

madrid.com/

62

The best live musicin Madrid

In Madrid you can find live music of many different genres onmost nights of the week. There are many bars in the city whichhave weekly jam sessions, and hold different themedperformances each day of the week. Tuesday to Thursday isoften the best time of the week to see live music played in bars inan informal setting, whilst at the weekend you might have to payanything from 5 euros to see a bigger show or more famousmusician or group.

This bar is one of the best to see qualitymusic in Madrid and has so many differentgenres there is bound to be something foreveryone on any particular night.They have a jam session every Wednesdaythat could be anything from “Roots &Grooves” to Folk/Indie Rock. They alsohave a lot of funk/soul bands.

Every Thursday, Friday and Saturdaythere is a club night with either resident DJFloro who has “no boundaries” and plays inmany jazz/funk/soul/blues clubs acrossSpain, or another guest DJ such as DJFunkywoman or DJ Javi Skunk.

On other nights there is always a DJon the decks until the early hours of themorning playing Reggae, Ska, Blues, Funk,Afro and much more.

Entry is usually free, but if there is aconcert or a performance on a particularnight then you may have to pay from €5 to€10 entry. Drinks are the usual prices forMadrid, a few euros for a beer and about€7 or more for a cocktail or more excitingdrink.

La Boca

del Lobo

La Boca del Lobo

C/ Echegaray 11Madrid 28014 Metro: Sol

T: +34 91468 1791Open: Tues-Sun from 10pm

63

Soul

StationComedy and live music are mixed in thissmall but trendy bar in the centre of Madrid.On Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays andSundays the Madrid Comedy Club puts on ashow of professional comedians, whoseskills range from magic-comedy to sketches,through to improvisations and games withthe audience.

Every Thursday there is an open micnight which sees a range of Madrid’s talentin whatever specified genre that week. OnSundays after the Comedy Club there is anRnB/Soul jam session which is a very chilledway to end the week. The Comedy Club andlive acts usually require a 10 or 12 euroentry fee, but it is half price if you book itonline before the event. The Open Micnights on Thursdays and the jam sessions onSundays are free.

Soul Station

Cuesta de Santo Domingo 22Madrid 28013. Metro: Santo DomingoT: +34 676 48 20 95

The best of

the rest...

Café CentralPlaza del Ángel 10Open: 1:30pm – 2:30amSun-Thurs, 1:30pm –3:30am Fri & Sat

Famous for big name performers this is awell-known quality jazz venue around theworld. Also playing mixtures of Latinfusion, blues and classical jazz, there issomething for everyone’s taste. Starts at10pm, tickets go on sale an hour before, at10 to 15 euros.

amanda Green

Populart

Calle de las Huertas 22Open: 6pm – 2:30am Sun-Thurs, 6pm –3:30am Fri & SatFree entranceA very relaxed jazz club, it looks a bit like an Irish pubfrom the outside but in fact offers top quality jazz,blues, and occasionally flamenco. Get there wellbefore the start at 10:15pm or you will be squashedagainst the door.

El Juglar

Calle de Lavapiés 37Open: 9pm – 3am Sun-Wed, 9pm –3:30am Thurs – Sat5 to 10 euros entranceBohemian setting, rock music , reggae and folk beatsare on display in this bar in the district of Lavapiés.DJs appear after the performance to play Latin orAmerican music.

There is a prevalent outdoor culture in Madrid; the city has 33 millionsquare metres of parkland across 40 parks. The appeal is mainly todo with the beautiful weather but also the social nature of the citiesinhabitants. “Belle Époque” was the name given to the era (1898-1914) in which the parks became open to all social classes. Duringthis time parks became very popular with families who would put ontheir best clothes and head to their favourite spot. The adults wouldmeet there to chat and admire passers-by while the children played.Nowadays the criteria is much the same(except for the best clothespart) and Madrid’s parks are always full of locals and tourists alike.

Parks and

Outdoor

Culture

64

65

open air Pools

During the day, many Spaniards will go to one of the cities open-air pools, perfect forsunbathing and taking a dip to cool down when the sun gets too hot! The pools arepopular with families, groups of teenagers and older couples equally; many have cafés withterraces to get a snack and a drink.

Peñuelas near the Acacias metro station has three pools, one larger L shaped adult’s pool,one child’s pool and a toddler’s pool. There is a large area to sunbathe although there isn’tmuch shade, as well as a café bar. Entry is €4.35 for an adult ticket, it is very popular andgets crowded, topless sunbathing is allowed here so don’t be shocked if you aren’t used topublic displays!If you’d prefer a little luxury near the city centre there is a rooftop pool at The HotelEmperador. Entry is €27 but includes a waiter service to your poolside lounger where youcan admire the cities beautiful people from behind your sunglasses. At Casa de Campo(near Lago) there is another set of pools, two outdoor (an Olympic size and a 25m) and oneindoor (also 25m), the 25m outdoor pool is popular with members of the gay community.

Casa de Campo

Casa de Campo, a former royal hunting estate is the largest park near the city centre atover 1800 hectares. It contains Madrid’s zoo, an amusement park, cable cars offering aunique view of Madrid’s most famous buildings, space to walk around and take in the viewsand wildlife and also the Temple de Debod, an Egyptian temple gifted to Spain in 1968 bythe Egyptian government. At night this park is very popular for botellóns, these are informal gatherings of youngpeople, usually aged 14 to 28, to consume alcohol, although drinking in public is illegalthese gathering continue none the less as they are a cheaper alternative to bars andnightclubs which often have expensive entrance fees and drinks prices.

Juan Carlos i Park

Juan Carlos I Park is on the outskirts of the city centre on the way to the airport, it is easilyaccessed by road and metro station: Campo de las Naciones. It is the only park to offer freebike hire to visitors in Madrid. There is a pre-designated route around the park for tourists,which takes in all areas of the park. This route hire is limited to one hour but if you’d preferto take in the nature at your own pace this is not a problem. Signing up is easy, just registerat the rental desk and you will be given a card that is available for use for a whole year.

The park itself contains 20 large sculptures such as a set of stairs that doesn’t lead toanywhere but does provide great views across the 220 hectare park and The Garden ofThree Cultures, each garden is inspired by Christian, Jewish and Muslim culture respectively.There is also a Mexican corner and sometimes there are sound and light shows at theFountain of Cybernetics.

66

Retiro Park

Retiro Park is Madrid’s most famous park, located straight up Acala Street from Puertade Sol, the nearest metro station is of the same name and the park is within walkingdistance of the Prado and Naval museums, making it perfect for tourists. The park wasoriginally the playground of King Felipe IV and his court; it was opened fully to thepublic in 1868. The park houses the Palacio de Cristal, pictured below, a large glasspalace in front of a lake full of swans and ducks. Another artificial large lake full of fishand turtles has rowing boats available to hire for around €5, this is located in front ofa statue of King Alfonso XII. There are also the Rosealeda Gardens, full of various vari-eties of roses and the statue of “The Fallen Angel”.

There are often street entertainers such as living statues, musicians, palm readers andstreet sellers offering jewellery, fans etc. On your walk around the park you can stop tohave an ice cream in one of the many small stands or possibly a jug of Sangria and abocadillo (sandwich) in a café, there are plenty to choose from offering a range offood and drink.

For the more active amongst you, there are ample opportunties for exercise. Many ofthe park’s wide sunny walkways are filled with roller skaters, joggers, cyclists, skateand long board riders. Located within the park is the Chopera Municipal Sports Cen-tre, which has an open-air weight lifting area, tennis, volleyball and basketball courts.

By Lisa MacLeod

Food

and

Drink67

Taste Spain’s Culinary VarietySpanish people have a mediterranean diet(typically including a high consumption offresh fruit and vegetables as well as olive oil).The breakfast usually consists of coffee, orangejuice, white bread rolls or a sweet bun andtoast. Typical for the Madrilenian breakfast is“chocolate con churros” or “con porras” (thickhot chocolate with a deep-fried sweet pastry;the thinner ones are called churros, the longerand thicker ones porras). The breakfast is

served between 9 a.m. and 12 a.m. and youcan enjoy it in many cafeterias and restaurants. Lunchtime is traditionally from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.The most economical and varied option wheneating in restaurants is ordering the “menu deldía” (daily menu), available in most restaurants.For between €10 and €25 you usually get astarter and a main course, including bread, adrink and sometimes a dessert or coffee.Dinner is usually eaten from around 9 p.m. to

Try Typical Madrilenian dishesAs Madrid is the capital city located in the centre of Spain, its cuisine is influenced by theSpanish provinces. This means you can eat every kind of Spanish food you want. However, thetwo most typical Spanish dishes of Madrid are “Cocido Madrileño” (Madrilenian stew; atraditionally chickpea-based, prepared with vegetables, potatoes and meat) and “Callos a laMadrileña” (beef tripe, cooked in a casserole with chorizo, cured ham and black pudding; usuallyserved as a very hot dish in a clay pot). “Rabo de Toro” is another famous Madrilenian dish andtraditionally served after a bullfight. This stew consists of lightly salted and browned bull's tailcombined with garlic, onions, peppers and tomatoes.If you prefer less adventurous but nevertheless typical food, you should go for “TortillaEspañola” (also called "tortilla de patata" or “potato omelette”; in addition to the authentictortilla, the variations nowadays also include green pepper, vegetables, chorizo or ham) or try a“Paella”, which you will also find in different variations (e.g. with seafood, chicken or vegetables).

Traditional Paella

68

Go for tapas and live the Spanish lifestyleAnd of course, there is tapas, the delicious cold and hot snacks that for many define Spanishcuisine! But they are more than just finger food and appetizers. Having tapas is a way of eating,it is a part of the Spanish lifestyle and represents the pleasant aspects of life - “la buena vida”.Traditionally and still today often served with drinks, they have also found their way on to themenu of most restaurants. You can order them as a “racion” (portion) and share with friends. During your stay in Madrid, you will find different tapas consisting of meat from the blackIberian pig. Examples are “Jamón Ibérico (de Bellota)” (cured ham), “Lomo Ibérico” (cured porkloin), “Chorizo Ibérico” or “Morcilla Ibérica” (spanish blood sausage)“. Jamón Ibérico is often saidto be the best ham in the world and therefore can be quite expensive. Also famous are the “bocadillos” (slices of baguette with different toppings), the variety ofcheeses (e.g. Queso de Oveja Curado), the “croquetas” (croquettes), pieces of “tortillas”, the“Patatas bravas o alioli” (fried potato pieces served with a spicy sauce or a garlic one) and the“Encontidas” (pickled vegetables like olives, cucumbers, garlic, sweet onions or capers invinegar). If you like seafood, tapas like “calamares” (calamari), “Mojama de Atún” (filleted salt-cured tuna), “Salmón Ahumado” (smoked salmon), “Anchoas en Salazon” (cured anchovies) or“Boquerones en vinagre” (marinated anchovies) might be good options for you.

Start with an “aperitivo”All day long, Madrid’s cafes are busy with locals and tourists alike who have a beer or drink acoffee and watch the world go by. The busiest time to find a table is from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. whenthe popular bars and terraces will be brimming with people drinking an “aperitivo” (an alcoholicbeverage which is drank before a meal) before dinner. Order a “cerveza” (beer) or sangria (redwine, lemonade and fruit) to fit in with the crowd. “Tinto de verano” (summer wine) is analternative to sangria, usually less strong and very refreshing! The three drinks will range in pricefrom €1 - €6. “Vermouth” – a fortified wine – often added to coke or lemonade, is another drinkoften found in the old-fashioned bars in the Chueca and Malasaña areas.

Tapas

69

What about some specialities?Undoubtedly, Rioja is the most famous Spanishwine and it is also true in Madrid. It is a goodidea when ordering wine to be specific ratherthat just ordering a glass of “vino tinto”.However check out the wine list, the popularity ofthe “Rioja” and “Ribera Del Duero” wines meansthat they might be rather expensive, so go for alower price bracket on the wine menu and ittends to be just as nice. Sherry and Cava are lesspopular with the younger generation in Madrid,but if you are looking for a speciality around mealtime these are the ones to go for.For the wine enthusiasts, you can sample fine wines including those of the nearby town LaMancha at Lavinia - a wine store in which you can buy a bottle of wine at shop-price and thendrink it upstairs in the bar or restaurant. Alternatively you can sample a variety of winesdownstairs using the state-of-the art wine dispensers. Top-up the wine card with money at theregister and taste as many wines as you like at your own pace. It definitely isn’t the mosttraditional wine tasting session but is unique and fun just like the city itself!

Recommended Places to

have an Aperitivo:

Buzzing: Gran Via

Traditional: Malasaña

Quirky: Chueca

City Chic: Plaza de Santa Ana

Relaxing: El Retiro Park

Common Madrid street with Tapas Bars

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Looking for tapas

If you want to go for tapas, Malsaña neighbourhood in the north of Madrid’s city centre is a goodarea for you to start in (metro station Noviciado or Tribunal). Begin your walk at Plaza de Dos deMayo, where you can find a lot of bars and restaurants. A famous insider tip is the bar Casa Julio(Calle Madera 37, open all day). It is an inexpensive place famous for their “croquetas”, where youwill meet young and old people as well as locals and foreigners. Also worth a visit is the pubBarbaroi (Calle San Vincente Ferre 32, open only in the evenings). Barbaroi only opened arounda year ago but is already a well known place for serving gin and tonic as well as cocktails for avery small price. During the day it is closed and doesn’t leave much impression, but the partygets started as soon as night comes.Other meeting places are the pubs in the Chueca neighbourhood (around the metro stationChueca and in the Calle Augusto Figueroa) to the east of Malasaña. If you are hungry but are notlooking for a place to stay for long, you should go to El Tigre (Calle de las Infantas 30, open allday). It is said to be the cheapest but also the most chaotic example of free tapas in Madrid.

Order a pint of beer or a Tinto de Verano, andyou receive a huge amount of tapas with it.In Huertas (south of Puerta del Sol in thedirection of Theatro de Español) you find someatmospheric places where you can order allkinds of typical tapas. Just take a walk aroundand you will surely find something.Lavapiés nighbourhood in the south-east ofMadrid is the multicultural part of the city.Located inconspicuously at the Calle del AveMaría (No. 44), but highly recommended, is thepub Melo’s (open Tue-Sat, from 9 p.m. - 2 a.m.).

It is an inexpensive place where you get a lot of food for your money. If you order some“zapatillas” (bocadillo with smoked pork shoulder and cheese, also available with other toppings),you really should be very hungry or share them. And try the croquetas, as they are said to be thebest ones in town. If you still have time, go to the Latina neighbourhood (metro station La Latina) in the south-westof Madrid. Around Plaza de la Paja, Plaza Puerte de Moros and in the Cava Baja you can findsome nice places to have a drink and food all day long.

On the following pages you will find some recommended places to stay and enjoy Madrid’satmosphere whilst having some tasty food and drink. The first part includes pubs, bars andrestaurants which provide value for money. In the second part you will find more exclusive placesthat might give you a better food experience albeit a more expensive one.

Cheaper Eateries

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Pozo Real(Calle del Pozo 6, metro station Sol, open every day from 1 p.m. – 1. a.m.)This family-run restaurant has a really nice atmosphere, charming waiters and serves deliciousSpanish food. From Monday to Friday from 1 a.m. to 1 p.m. you get a whole menu, including astarter, a main dish, bread, a drink and a dessert or a coffee for only €8.90.

Méson das Meigas(Calle Barbieri 6, metro station Chueca, open from 1 p.m. – 1. a.m.)Located inconspicuously in the street and giving a slightly gloomy impression, at first glance, thistypical Gallican eatery is not very charming. But there is a beautifully decorated dining room in therear part of the restaurant. Also the tapas bar at the front is usually jam-packed at night. In theevening, the Méson das Meigas serves an extensive and tasty menu: some typical tapas to startwith, a starter and main course of your choice, bread, a drink, dessert and coffee. And all this for afabulous €10. A visit is therefore really highly recommended.

Restaurante Sabatini(Calle de Bailén 15, metro station Plaza de España, open daily from 8 a.m. - 2 a.m.) This is a pleasant restaurant with a nice view of the Palacio Real from the terrace. Good menusduring lunch time and hot meals (like stuffed pepper or meat balls) for between €7 and €10available also in the evening. If you do not mind sitting inside at the bar, you can enjoy a beer or aglass of wine with a tapas dish for only €1 during the whole day.

You can get a variety of inexpensive Paellas (around 11 Euros) at the Restaurant Lupita (Gran Via73, metro station Plaza de España) or in the Cafetería los arcos at the Plaza Mayor (metro stationSol or Opera). Of course they are not the best ones in terms of quality and flavour but are worth itfor the price.

if you long for a real mealTapas can fill you up, of course, especially after having done a “tapeo”, a tour through differenttapas bars. However, if you are still hungry or are looking for a real meal, the following restaurantsare good places to try:

Value Restaurants

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if you are very hungry...The best places to get a lot of food for a really low price are the buffets libre (all you can eat).There are not as many of them in Madrid as in other cities (e.g. in Barcelona) or rather, they are notlocated in the most obvious places. But while walking through the city, by and by they seem toappear. The following restaurants provide a really good deal and also offer some Spanish food:

all You Can Eat (Tetuán 20 and Gran Vía 45, www.auce.es, €10), Topolino (Calle de Preciados 50and Calle de San Andrés, www.topolino.es, between €9 and €13; attention, drinks are not includedand quite expensive!) or FresCo (Calle Caballero de Gracia 8 and Calle de Las Fuentes 12, €10).If you are looking for a healthier option, go to Salad&Co (Calle Preciados 36, www.saladandco.es,€10, metro station Callao) or Maoz (Calle Mayor 4, metro station Sol, www.maozusa.com, opendaily from 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.). Salad&Co offers not only a huge salad bar and some hot dishes (e.g.tortilla, vegetables, pasta or pizza) in buffet libre style but also the possibility to take away yourfood box (available in different sizes). At Maoz you get, for around €5, a baked pitta bread filledwith hot falafel and the permission, to refill your salad box with ingredients from the salad bar asmany times as you want to.

By nicole Grab

Buffets Libre

Salad&Co - Salad and Hot Food Buffet

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Places to grab a snack during the day or after a long night out

Museo de Jamón(Several branches across the whole city, www.museodeljamon.es)Nothing for vegetarians, but really worth a visit for all who love meat. As the name already says,Museo de Jamón is all about ham. Entering the “museum”, you feel like you are in a butcher’s shop.However, you can have tapas, sandwiches or whole meals for a really affordable price. Justremember: Ham will always be an ingredient! You can also buy a picnic to take away. Then you geta “bocadillo”, a soft drink as well as a piece of fruit for only €2.

Cervecería de 100 Montaditos (Several branches across the whole city, www.100montaditos.com)This is best described as a beer pub chain, offering beer for €1 and soft drinks for €2 all day andyou receive a small “montadito” (sandwich) to accompany your drink. Also, you can order different“montaditos” at between €1.50 and €2 each. On Wednesdays, all drinks cost €1 (yes, you read thatcorrectly, €1 for all drinks plus a montadito!) . The locals are really chatty, there is usually a terraceand most branches are located in interesting places where there is a lot to see (e.g. next to GranVía or near the Royal Palace). Excellent value for money all round.

Cañas y Tapas(Several branches across the whole city, www.tapaspain.com)Another food chain in Madrid! Although, being there you do not really feel it. Cañas y Tapas try tokeep customs alive: The locations are inspired by traditional taverns and “el tapeo” is an importantpart of their philosophy. If you are looking for good typical Spanish food for an acceptable price,go to Cañas y tapas.

ChocolateríasIf you have low blood sugar during the day or need some heavy food and drink after a night in thepub, go for ”chocolate con churros” or “porras”. You will find an more economic version at theChocolatería El Maestro de Churrero (Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, www.maestrochurrero.com,metro station Sol or Tirso de Molina, open during the whole day). However, locals prefer theChocolatería San Ginés (Calle Arenal 11, metro station Sol, open all day), where it is really worthpaying a bit more for your sweet snack.

Value Snackeries

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Even if you cannot afford to eat there, Restaurante Botín is well worth a visit as it is officially theoldest restaurant in the world! Check it out in the Guinness Book of Records. Of all the literaryicons that the restaurant professes to have hosted, Ernest Hemingway is by far the most famous.Hemingway often visited the restaurant and was a good friend of the current owner’s father andgrandfather. They say that Hemingway took a particular interest in learning how to make paella –but that his cooking skills weren’t up to much compared to his writing!• Speciality Dish: Roast suckling pig or roast baby lambcooked in an 18th Century style wood burning oven for €22 plusside dish. Average price of dish: €18. Don’t forget to add on wineand couverts!The huge portions, delicious dishes, excellent waiter service andenticing atmosphere of Botín are reasons enough to visit thisfamous establishment.

Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas is similar in values to Botín but exceeds it in ambiance, decor andcomfort. There is something nostalgic about the cosy windowless brick valted ‘cave’ in which yourelax, a throwback to a former time when, as legend has it, thefamous bandit Luis Candelas used those very caves as a hide-out.• Speciality Dishes: Roast piglet or roast lamb cooked in anArab oven with oak wood, meats, fishes, the stew-pot and typicaldesserts from Madrid.The open fire and candle lighting make this restaurant perfect foran Autumn or Winter evening in Madrid. It is recommended toorder the specialities here, rather than the same old Spanishomelette which you could get for cheaper elsewhere.

Venture down the backstreets in the day to discover authentic fine Spanish cafes...

Chocolatería San Ginés is open all day long,• Speciality: Chocolate con churros for €3.70.Located on a calm street, you can dine inside or outside.Recommended is to visit this cafe for breakfast or for a late nightsnack, not around meal times as although the speciality dish isdelicious it is rich! You may have to order a drink alongside it.

Take a stroll along Calle Los Cuchilleros next to Plaza Mayor in the evening to find some of themost excellent eateries in Madrid...

Exclusive and iconic

Chocolatería San GinésPasadizo de San GinésMetro: Sol

Just turn up!

Las Cuevas de Luis Can-delasC/de los CuchillerosMetro: La LatinaTel: (+34) 913 66 54 28Lascuevasdeluiscande-las.esBook a table in advance!

BotínC/de los CuchillerosMetro: La LatinaTel: (+34) 913 44 42 17Botin.es Book a table in advance!

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To keep in mind:• Walking through the streets you will see several people distributing flyers with specialoffers from different restaurants. These might give you more ideas about where to fill yourstomach. • Often restaurants do not look very appealing from the outside but are really worth avisit. So if you have the chance, ask around and listen out. Madrilenian people are quite helpfuland usually like giving you some good tips.• Be aware that some restaurants still promote their daily menu in the evening, althoughthey only serve it for lunch. So it is best to ask first before you sit down and are forced tochoose from the normally much more expensive courses on the menu. • Sometimes there is a price difference, depending on whether you eat your meal at thebar, in the restaurant or on the terrace. And in some restaurants the bread will be charged sepa-rately, although they serve it without asking you before.• Pubs and bars often do not come alive before 9 p.m. So some of the places mentionedabove might be quite empty during the day or even closed.• Compared to other big cities, you will not find many places offering foreign fast food ortake away possibilities. Also take-away and picnics in general do not seem to be popular inMadrid. Going for tapas is normally the preferred option. Furthermore, apart from some parksthere are not too many nice places to sit down for a picnic.• And finally, in tourist areas like the centre part around Puerta del Sol or along Gran Víayou will of course – as everywhere in the world - find the big fast food chains like McDonalds,Burger King, KFC or the Pans&Company. They definitely do not give you the real Madrilenianfeeling, but can be seen as a compromise when you are really fed up with looking for someother restaurants.

Café GijónDubbed as ‘the greatest cafe in the history of Spain’, from its founding days in 1888 it has been aregular haunt for poets, artists and writers alike and cannot be missed if you are an arty studentinterested in the bohemian past of Madrid. Famous people who frequented this café includeFederico Garcia Lorca, Ruben Dario, Antonio Machado and PerezGaldo.• Recommended: Weekday lunch menu €12 for 3 courses plusdrink.Imagine a Spanish version of Betty’s Tearooms: light meals that areoverpriced but compensated for by the memorable environment.A must for those searching for a classy place to eat.

Café GijónPaseo RecoletasMetro: ChuecaTel: (+34) 915 21 54 25Cafegijon.com Just turn up!

and Finally...

...Enjoy The Taste of Madrid!By annabel Ross

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Peopleand Life

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...do as the Spaniards do! During your time in

this wonderful city, why not recover from your

hangover by spending a classically Spanish

evening with friends, enjoying good food,

drink and entertainment, without having to

leave your accommodation or spend much

money! Read on to find out more!

When in Madrid…A Typical Night in, Madrid Style:

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ingredients (serves 4)2 tablespoons of cooking oil 1 large green pepper 1 onion 1 tin of peas 12 small chicken legs 1 packet of short-grain white paella rice 1 carton of Sopa de Pollo (chicken stock) 1 tin of chopped tomatoes Pinch of saffron

instructions1. Heat the oil in the paellera (orfrying pan/wok).2. Chop green pepper and onion and gently fry in the oil.3. Stir in the peas.4. Add the chicken and fry until golden brown in colour.5. Add 3 cups of rice to the mixture and gently heat through for 3 minutes.6. Mix 6 cups of the chicken stock into the paella (always allow 2 cups of chicken stock per1 cup of rice).7. Cover the mixture with the chopped tomatoes.8. Add a pinch of saffron to give the dish its traditional golden colour.9. Allow the ingredients to simmer for 20 minutes – do not stir!10. Serve the dish in the pan used for cooking.

Amongst the natives, the most important part of a successful paella is the toasted layer of riceat the bottom of the pan, called the socarrat. It is essential the dish is not stirred during cookingto ensure this layer forms, which gives the overall toasted aroma and sticky texture that istypical of this delicacy.

The dish – Paella with chicken and vegetablesDespite paella being renowned as a national delicacy of Spain, it actually originated as aregional dish of Valencia in the mid-19th Century. The word paella in Valencian in fact refers toall saucepans used for cooking, however in Spain the term paellera more specifically refers tothe shallow steel pan in which this dish is made. Paella is traditionally made with either seafood,meat and/or vegetables – this recipe specifically instructs the use of chicken and vegetables,which can be substituted for different ingredients if desired. In addition, if the paellera is notavailable, substitute this for a large frying pan or wok, which should produce the same result!

Paella

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ingredients1 litre of sangria (shop bought carton,or if making your own, bottle of redwine and freshly squeezed lemonjuice)4 tablespoons of brown sugarChopped fruit of your choice – weused 2 oranges, 1 peach and 1 appleIf desired, a spirit of your choosing,such as whisky, rum or ginIce cubes

instructions

1. Pour sangria mixture into a bowl.2. Stir in four tablespoons of brown sugar.3. Chop fruit into edible sized pieces and add to the mixture.4. Stir into the mixture 1 shot of liqueur/spirit (if desired).5. Add plenty of ice, and keep cool until serving into glasses with a ladle or wooden spoon.

Recommendable variations of this drink are tinto de verano (red wine of summer) or calimocho.Tinto de verano can also be bought ready made, and is produced by adding 1 part red wine to1 part lemonade. It is an extremely refreshing, watered down version of sangria, and is served ina tumbler with a slice of lemon and plenty of ice.

Calimocho is an infamous drink amongst the younger members of the region, and isformulated by adding 1 part red wine to 1 part coke! Again, this can be bought from bars, orbottled in supermarkets, and is so popular that experts have now specifically recommendedtypes of wine that blend with the distinguishable flavour of coke!

The drink – SangriaSangria is a punch which is most widely associated with Spain, and iseffortless and inexpensive to produce. It can be bought ready-madein cartons from supermarkets, to which chopped fruit can simply beadded; alternatively you could buy a cheap bottle of red wine andadd lemon juice to make your own version!

Sangria

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The entertainmentRápido is an exciting card game generally played by two players, but could include otherplayers if necessary. As the name suggests, the game is very fast and can take a while to adjustto the pace. The aim of the game is to get rid of your cards as quickly as possible so payattention to your hand!

It is important to note that Spanish cards (barajas) are different to those that you may be morefamiliar with; there are still four suits (known as palos), and these are: the swords, the goldcoins, the sticks and the wine cups [see picture 1]. Card numbers in play are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10,11, 12 – cards 8 and 9 are not used, much like our jokers.

instructions for Rápido (based on a game between 2 players)The cards are dealt and four cards are placed face-up in front of each player, the remainingcards divided between the players and placed to the side, face-down. To begin play, each playermust simultaneously take the top card from the deck to their side, turn it over and place it inthe middle, between the players.

There are no ‘turns’ in this game, it is every man for himself and the player must be the fastestto place one of their corresponding cards from the four in front of them on top of one of thecards placed in the middle of the play area. For example, if one of the cards in the middle was a1, a 2 or a 12 could be placed on top of it; if there was a 2 in the middle, a 3 or a 1 could be putdown.

Whenever a card is removed from the four lined up in front of each of the players, it must bereplaced by one from the deck to the side, so that four cards are always being played with. If atany time the cards in the middle show the same numbers, the player who did not place the lastcard must take all the cards in the middle and add them to their deck at the side.

It is, of course, sometimes the case that neither player will have a corresponding card to add toeither of the piles in the middle, and in this instance, play must start from the beginning, witheach player taking the top card from the deck at the side and placing it face-up in the middle ofthe playing area.

By Fiona Smout

Rápido

Siesta!The traditional Spanish Siesta – is it still alive?

For Spaniards, having a “siesta” means enjoying a short nap in the afternoon, normally

taken after eating the midday meal. The conceptual origin of the siesta goes back to Latin,

where the term “hora sexta” indicated the sixth hour after the sunrise. In southern

European countries, this is normally the hottest part of the day, starting from around 1.30

p.m and lasting until around 5 p.m.

once upon a time...

The siesta is supposed to have originated from Spain’s agricultural culture, although

rumours of other origins exist. During summer time in July and August, between 1 p.m.

and 5 p.m., temperatures typically rose above 40 degrees. During this time, working on

the fields was not only excessively demanding but also unhealthy. Hence, farmers used to

stop their work and recharge their energy with a meal and a nap. They returned to the

fields at around 5 p.m. and stayed out until the sunset.

But siesta was not only a form of protection from the sun. Apart from high temperatures

during the summer time, heavy food during lunch necessitated the need to have a nap.

Furthermore, having a siesta allowed to spend time with the family and friends.

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Siesta in Spain in the 21th century...

If there is a chance and the working circumstances allow it, Spanish people still practice

the tradition of having a siesta during the summer time. The best possibility for a siesta

have people working either on the countryside, in small family communities or outside

the tourist areas of Spain. They need the break to eat, have a short nap or catch up with

some leisurely activities. Although some of the earlier reasons for a siesta still count today,

there arose an additional one, which especially for Madrid today might be even the most

important argument for a siesta: the nightlife!

Pubs, discos, bars and restaurants, some tapas on a neigbour’s balcony or an appointment

with some friends, are among the spare time activities Madrilenians love best. No matter

what’s on the programme, the few hours between the last beer and the first working hour

in the office is normally too short to get sufficient sleep and energy for the coming work

day. Therefore, a short nap in the early afternoon helps to recharge one’s batteries and get

ready for the next party in the evening.

However, due to several reasons, the traditional siesta has lost its importance. With

globalization, a lot of international companies have opened their establishments in Spain.

Having a siesta is not part of their business culture and therefore, working hours are

continuous and lunchtime sometimes limited to around an hour. In addition to this, new

technologies like air condition provide bearable working conditions all day and make a

break owing to the heat irrelevant. Nowadays, commuting between the living and the

work place is required as well, which makes it harder or often even impossible to go home

during lunchtime. And finally, the economic crisis, lasting since 2007, has forced some of

the smaller shops to stop their traditional siesta and expand opening hours in the hope of

earning more revenue.

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In 2005, Madrid’s government introduced a law which changed this traditional way of

living, as they thought it reduced productivity and caused problems within families. All

people working within the public service now had only one hour of lunch. In general, the

opinions differ as to whether having a siesta is a benefit or a problem. While some studies

say that having a short nap after lunch raises the productivity of employees in the

afternoon and reduces the risk of a heart attack, others state that a siesta might cause

circular problems, making going back to work difficult. In any case, the short nap after

lunch should only last between 20 and 40 minutes. Otherwise, the siesta will cause a

fatiguing rather than a refreshing effect.

Typically Spanish?

Although the siesta seems to be the most popular or best known form of sleeping during

the day, siesta-like habits can be found in several cultures and countries around the whole

world. Even in northern countries like Germany, politicians are starting to think about

implementing a siesta in everyday work which would primarily be seen as a form of a

power nap, with the object to revitalize within several minutes.

and how does this tradition affect you as a tourist?

In touristy areas you might not feel too much of the siesta’s presence. As tourism is an

important source of revenue for a lot of shops, they can stay open from early in the

morning until late in the evening. However, when leaving the centre or visiting the

countryside, between 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. you might find yourself in front of closed shop

fronts and walking in quietly deserted streets. The best thing you can do then is take

Spanish people as an example, adopt their customs, take a seat and rest a little bit! And

later on avoid exhausting exercises during the afternoon to save energy as the next party

is coming soon!

By nicole Grab

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Football

Sol, Sol, Sol!! Gol, Gol, Gol!!Two things Madrid is synonymouswith: sunshine and Real MadridC.F.. The city´s obsession withfootball is quite clear around thecity as you pass many sports andsouvenir shops filled with replicashirts of the two Madrid teams,Real and Atletico, as well ascurrent European champions F.C.Barcelona.

The city of Madrid is home to RealMadrid in the North and AtleticoMadrid to the South whilst theoutskirts of the city also housestwo other Liga BBVA teams in theshape of growing club Getafe andnewly-promoted Rayo Vallecano.

By far the most successful ofthese teams is Real Madrid. Theclub was awarded the honour ofthe 20th century´s greatest clubside by FIFA and the club hasamassed a remarkable 31 Spanishleague titles (or Liga BBVA), 18Spanish cups (or Copa del Rey)and a record 9 European Cups.The latest of these was won in2002 after a 2-1 win over Germanside Bayer Leverkusen atHampden, Glasgow with Frenchlegend Zinedine Zidane volleyingthe winning goal.

Many of the world´s greatest everplayers have turned out in the all-white strip at the Estadio SantiagoBernabeu including: Alfredo diStefano, Ferenc Puskas, EmilioButragueno, Hugo Sanchez,Clarence Seedorf, ZinedineZidane, David Beckham, Raul,Ronaldo, Figo, and RobertoCarlos. The current squad includesglobal names such as CristianoRonaldo, Kaka and club captainIker Casillas.

As a club Real Madrid is therichest in the world in terms ofrevenue (€438.6m) and second interms of value ($1.4m in 2011).This financial strength hasallowed the club to continuallybreak world transfer records forplayers, paying £37m in 2000 forFigo, £46m in 2001 for ZinedineZidane, £56m in 2009 for Kakaand the current record £80m in2009 for Cristiano Ronaldo.

Los Merengues (named for theirall-white strip) play their homegames in the 80,000 seaterEstadio Santiago Bernabeu andthe Spanish Liga BBVA seasonruns from August to May. There isa tour of the stadium available fortourists at any time of the yearregardless of the football season.Fans can take in a breathtakingpanoramic view from the highesttier as well as entry to themuseum, trophy room, pressroom and the pristinely managedBernabeu pitch.

Madrid´s second club AtleticoMadrid are perpetually in theshadow of their cross-city rivalsbut do boast a decent, ifunremarkable, history themselvesand are regarded as one ofSpain´s biggest clubs. LosColchoneros (The MattressMakers, due to their red and whitestriped strip) have won the LigaBBVA 9 times and the Copa delRey 9 times including a double in1996. Following this success in1996 the club suffered financialtroubles and succumbed torelegation in 1999 beforereturning to the top tier twoseasons later. Since, the club hasenjoyed a resurrection as one ofSpain´s strongest club sides,including playing in the EuropeanChampions League in the 2008-09 season.

Atletico´s most notable formerplayers include Abelardo and LuisAragones whilst the current squadincludes South American starsDiego Forlan and Sergio Agüero.Atletico Madrid play their homematches at the Estadio VicenteCalderon, capacity 55,000. Thereis also a tour available as well as aclub museum and shop.

By George Cran

Sports in Madrid

Basketball

Basketball is Spain´s second sport and Madrid is home to two ACB teams in Real Madrid Baloncestoand Estudiantes. Real Madrid Baloncesto is the basketball section of Real Madrid C.F. and like theirfootballing colleagues are regarded as the most successful team in Spain and Europe. They have 30league championships to their name, including 7-in-a-row and 10-in-a-row sequences, and have alsowon a record 8 Euroleague Championships.

Former star players include Drazen Petrovic, Antonio Diaz-Miguel and Drazen Dalipagic. Since 2010they play at Caja Magica (The Magic Box), capacity 12,500 seats.

Madrid also houses another big basketball team called Estudiantes, one of the most recognisedteams in Spain and have 3 Spanish cups to their name as well as finishing runners-up in the Spanishleague championship four times. They play their home games at Palacio de Deportes, capacity15,000.

Other Sports

The Madrid Masters is a European Tour golftournament that takes place at Real SociedadHipica Espanola at Casa de Campo. Thecurrent champion is Englishman and currentWorld No.1(as of July 24, 2011) Luke Donaldand past winners are Ross McGowan ofEngland and Charl Schwartzel of South Africa.For horseracing fans summer races are held atHipodromo La Zarzuela, 5 miles/7.5km fromthe city centre. Madrid also host motorsport atCircuito Permanente Del Jarama located on theAutovia A1. The city hosts two major runningevents, The Madrid Marathon and the SanSilvestre Vallecana and historically, the cityserves as the final stage of the Vuelta a Españacycling event much as Paris hosts the finalstage of the Tour de France.

Participant Sports

Madrid provides facilities for an enormous amount of sports to visitors within the city and also in thesurrounding countryside. Amenities and information for tennis, polo, squash, swimming, bowling andhorse riding can be found at the Instituto Municipal de Deportes at Casa de Campo.The Club de Campo Villa de Madrid includes tennis courts and stables with horses for hire as well as agolf course.

Tennis

The first week of May every year sees theworld´s top tennis players descend on Madridfor the Mutua Madrileña Madrid Opentournament held at Caja Magica. 2011´s men´stournament was won by current world numberone (as of July 4, 2011) Novak Djokovic beatingSpain´s Rafael Nadal. In previous years thetrophy has been won by Rafael Nadal, RogerFederer and Andy Murray. 2011 saw PetraKvitova beat Victoria Azarenka to take theladies championship whilst Aravane Rezai andDinara Safina won in 2010 and 2009respectively.

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Name: Estadio Santiago BernabeuAddress: Paseo de los MelancolicosCalle de la Virgen del PuertoTelephone: +34 91 344 00 52Price: Match tickets are variable, Stadiumtour: €16 for Adults, €12 for ChildrenMetro: Santiago Bernabeu

Name: Estadio Vicente CalderonAddress: Paseo de la CastellanaTelephone: +34 91 366 47 07Price: Match tickets are variable, Stadiumtour: €10 for adults, €5 for under 12sMetro: Piramides

Name: Caja MagicaAddress: Madrid Espacios y Congresos.C/ Camino de Perales, s/n.28041 Madrid (España)Telephone: + 34 917 220 400Metro: San Fermin-Orcasure-mail: cajamagica@madrideyc.es

Name: Palacio de DeportesAddress: AVENIDA FELIPE II, S/N, 28009MadridTelephone: 00034914 44 99 49 ‎Metro: Goya

Venue Details

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Bull fighting, or corrida de toros as it is knownin Spanish, is perhaps another archetypalelement of Spanish culture and tradition.However, many would argue that it is now timeto leave this archaic spectacle in the past,advocating the lack of welfare for the animalsinvolved. It is certainly an experience of pompand pageantry, which is viewed by the steadfastsupporters as an opportunity to judge thebravery and technique of the participants,rather than focus on the inevitable outcome ofthe event: the death of the bull.

As it is practiced today, bull fighting involvesthree stages or tercios which are methodicallyfollowed through by the toreros (bull fighters).The toreros, depending on their amount ofexperience aim to elicit an emotionalconnection with the audience by performingmanoeuvres within close range of the bull,which can put the torero at risk, thusdemonstrating the extent of their courage. Theimportant players to note are the banderilleros(instantly recognisable in their brightly colouredcostumes, complete with pink socks to coincidewith the colouring of the cape used); who“warm-up” the animal for the three matadores(dressed in gold), who will each fight two bulls.Also noticeable are the picadors (lancers onhorseback), and mozo de espadas(sword page).

Stage 1

To notify the audience of the start of each newstage of the proceedings, a bugle will besounded. The participants then enter thestadium in a parade or paseíllo, accompaniedby band music in order to pay homage to theaudience and presiding judge of the fight. Thebull will then enter the arena, and thebanderilleros take turns in angering andweakening the animal by flourishing the goldand magenta capote (cape) before it.Interestingly, bulls are colour-blind, andalthough a red cape is used in the final stage ofthe proceedings, this is more as a tradition thanhaving the stereotypical effect of causing angerto the bull.

Next to join the action are the twopicadors, dressed mutely with steel guardsprotecting their feet; the horses on which theyenter are also covered with a protectivepadding known as peto and are in additionblindfolded. Shockingly, the picadors will thenstab the bull with a vara (lance), which can bequite a prolonged process as the bull will oftenattack the horse, and in some instances, push itto the ground using its horns. This procedure isintended to diminish the bull’s resistance,encouraging the animal to charge at a singletarget and lower its head so that the matadorcan easily perform his final task.

Bull fighting: fine

art or blood sport?

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address: Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, c/Alcalá 237,Madrid, 28028opening hours: Every Sunday in March to October anddaily during Fiesta San Isidro – 9 days commencing fromthe second Friday in May; from 19:00 – 23:00Price: Ranging from €3 - €100 depending on where you sit,who is performing and whether you want a seat in the sol(sun) or sombra (shade) – we paid €5 and had a good viewin the shadeWebsite: www.las-ventas.comnearest Metro station: Ventas (lines 2, 5)Buses: 12, 21, 38, 53, 106, 110, 146 Telephone: (0034) 91 356 22 00nB: The stadium also has its own museum, which is openevery Tuesday – Sunday from 10:00 – 13:30, €7 adults, €5children

Bull fighting is a controversial subject on which everyone has an opinion. Whilst I have tried toremain as objective as possible within this article, it is evident that my feelings on the “sport” haveseeped through to some extent. If you decide to watch a bull fighting match, my advice is this: gowith an open mind, be aware of the outcome, be a part of the atmosphere, and then choosewhether you are for or against it. For me, one experience of the event was enough to last alifetime!

Fiona Smout

Author’s note...

Where to go...

Stage 2Now that the bull is suitably riled up, thebanderilleros will each attempt to launch twobanderillas (sharp coloured sticks) into thebull’s shoulders, without being gored in theprocess. This evidently continues to weaken thebull’s ability to fight, and aesthetically the bull issadly an outlet for the bullfighters to prove theirworth and ability to the onlookers.

Stage 3Finally the matador enters the ring alone withthe traditional red cape in order to prepare theanimal for the kill and to demonstrate hisdomination over the creature by keeping thegarment close to his body. Certain matadorslike to prolong the animal’s suffering andintensify the crowd by allowing this stage to bedrawn out. This is in order to receive theappreciation of the spectators, who will wavewhite handkerchiefs if they feel the matador has

performed particularly well, and in turn, thejudge may award him with a trophy appendage(such as the ear or tail) of the dead animal. If forany reason the bull is noticeably infirm or hasbeen considered to have fought bravely by thejudge, it is occasionally spared and returned tothe original ranch, where it can live the rest ofits days as a stud bull.

in every city there is an aura left by these Very importantPersons. We have tried to follow it in Madrid. Come and join us...

A Day Like A VIP

"¿hombres o dioses?", men or gods? it's the title of anexhibition organized by the Museo arqueológico Regional(Regional archeological Museum) in alcalá de henares. But it'salso what comes to our mind when we think of the people whomake a city great.Because a city might be places, and palaces, and roads, andmonuments. But it's first of all its people. Everyday people, whomake that world go round with their hard work, with their smilesand tears, with what they build, and eat, and write, and love, andshare and whatever they do every single day. People forgotten byhistory, and yet indispensable. and then there are the ViPs, theones who left a bigger mark, the ones you wish you could be, or at

least you could meet. Men and women or gods and goddesses?

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A nice way to start our tour could be by visiting the Barrio de las Letras inthe city centre, where the most important figures of Spanish literature usedto live. If we come from Plaza Mayor, we can first stop for a few moments inCalle Mayor where, at number 61, lived Pedro Calderón de la Barca (photo 1).The great dramatist, poet and writer of the Spanish Golden Age also diedhere in 1681.From Calle Mayor we proceed to Carrera de San Jeronimo, where we find, onthe right, Calle de la Vega. From there, we easily reach Calle Cervantes, whichtakes its name from the man who is still probably the most famous of theSpaniards of any time: here, at number 2 of the street, which was called atthat time Calle de Leon, lived and died Miguel de Cervantes, “father” of themost funny and sad Hidalgo of all history, Don Quijote de la Mancha. Thereis not only a plaque on the building, but also an inscription, in goldenletters, on the pavement, paying homage to the illustrious guest of thehouse that once occupied this place(photo 2).

Not much further, in the same street, we find the house-museum of anotherbig name of Spanish literature, Felix Lope de Vega. The writer lived here in thelast 25 years before his death, which occurred in 1635. The museum is open tovisitors from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and the entrance is free.If you wish, you can spend the rest of the morning here, and then go back nearPlaza Mayor for a very special lunch: the address is Calle de Cuchilleros 17,where you will find the Restaurante Botin(photos 3&4), certified by theGuinness Book of Records as the most ancient restaurant in the world. Afrequent guest here used to be Ernest Hemingway, and actually on the websiteof the restaurant (www.botin.es) you can find a Ruta Hemingway (Hemingwaytour) and more ideas to visit Madrid on the footsteps of legendary names wholeft a mark on the city. However, the restaurant is certainly not one of thecheapest in Madrid (the House Menu, for instance, is 43,10€), so you might justwant to have a look at it from outside. But if you have a chance to get into it, itis worth a visit.

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In the afternoon we move to Chueca, the gay district, which is also, as often happens, ahaven for artists and creative souls. It's not surprising that here, in Calle de la Reina,painter Francis Bacon used to get drunk.In the same calle, you will also find a plaque to inform you that Victor Hugo resided herefor one year(photo 1). And from Quasimodo's father another street nearby takes its name.If you are a cinema lover, this is the district for you. The legend says world-wide knowndirector Pedro Almodovar lives here. We don't know if it's true, but it seems he has beenseen many times around here. Another place for cinephiles is La Bardemcilla, the restaurant owned by the Bardemfamily (Oscar winner Javier, married to Penelope Cruz, sister Mónica, brother Carlos,mother Pilar...) where tapas and raciones bear names from Bardem films (mostly Javier's)such as Croquetas Jamón-Jamón.You will find it in Calle Augusto Figueroa, 47.

But before that, why not do some shopping? The place for you to go is Have A Nice Day(or HAND), in Calle Hortaleza 26. In one of the dressing rooms we find the intriguinginformation that Princess Letizia tried on some dresses here... before becoming a princess,of course(photo 2). The shop actually is French, and not cheap, but neither is it as expensiveas you would expect from a place where such a celebrity buys (or used to buy, or at least tryon) her clothes. The dresses are quite pretty and the setting is very nice. It is definitely wortha visit. Absolutely not to be missed by wannabe princesses: it might bring you luck.Now, if you finished your tour earlier than expected, or wish to continue tomorrow, the bestthing to do is to go back where we started with the "men or gods" question, on Alcalá deHenares. According to the tradition, it's here that Cervantes was born and spent the firstthree years of his life (photos 3&4). What is believed to be his family's house is today amuseum re-enacting the life of the people in the two-story building, and exhibiting variouseditions of his master work. To get there, take a train of the Cercanias at the luxuriantAtocha station, you'll be there in less than an hour. And if Cervantes' house is not enough to push you to visit this friendly town, be aware thathere, at the Archbishop's Palace, took place the first meeting between ChristopherColumbus and Elizabeth the Catholic. Believe it or not, the American Dream was born here.

By Selene Verri

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Presenting the

Madrid City

Travel Review

Team 2011

Back row, left to right: Toni Toms, Karina Stoltz, Josie England, HannahShaddock, Mariña Camba, George Cran, Lisa MacLeod

Front row, left to right: Francesca Bonetti, Amanda Green, Nicole Grab, Pablo Perez, Fiona Smout, Selene Verri, Annabel Ross

Asihwarya Das (inset)Aurelie Crombé (not pictured)