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ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS SPRING/SUMMER 2012 CELEBRATE SPRING! Fashion Favorites Watchmaking: The Next Generation Last Bid for Love

LUX BOND & GREEN

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Fashion Favorites Watchmaking: The Next Generation Last Bid for Love ACCENT o THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS o SPRING/SUMMER 2012

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Page 1: LUX BOND & GREEN

ACCENT ! THE MAGAZ INE OF L IFE ’ S CELEBRAT IONS ! SPR ING/SUMMER 20 12

CELEBRATESPRING!

Fashion FavoritesWatchmaking:

The NextGeneration

Last Bid for Love

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34

Contents spring/summer 2012

FOR

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FEATURES2 Welcome Letter4 What’s Happening 8 Jewelry: Celebrate Spring in Style

14 LBG Core Values Excellence Awards 16 Giftware: Bright & Bold 18 LBG Weddings 20 Fine Swiss Timepieces 22 LBG Custom Design Center26 Adventures in India 30 Accent Advisor 32 Profile: John Hardy 34 Profile: Forevermark 36 Designers: Marco Bicego 38 Designers: Penny Preville 40 From the Runways 60 Trends: Renewal 64 Food: Making Magic 66 Travel: Eco-Immersion70 Home: Al Fresco72 Culture: Café Society76 End Page: Last Bid for Love

WATCH SECTION48 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum52 Winders: Winding it Up 56 Profile: Michele Watches 58 Collecting: Time on His Side

W E S T H A R T F O R D46 LASALLE ROAD, (860) 521-3015

G L A S T O N B U R YSOMERSET SQUARE, (860) 659-8510

G R E E N W I C H169 GREENWICH AVE., (203) 629-0900

W E S T P O R T136 MAIN STREET, (203) 227-1300

B O S T O N416 BOYLSTON STREET, (617) 266-4747

T H E S H O P S AT M O H E G A N S U NUNCASVILLE, (860) 862-9900

W E L L E S L E Y, M A60 CENTRAL STREET, (781) 235-9119

S O U T H W I N D S O R , EVERGREEN WALK, (860) 644-0789

1- 8 0 0 - L B G R E E N ( 1 - 8 0 0 - 5 2 4 - 73 3 6 )WWW.LBGREEN.COM

C H A I R M A NROBERT E. GREEN

P R E S I D E N T/ C E OJOHN A. GREEN

V I C E C H A I R M A N MARC A. GREEN

C H I E F F I N A N C I A L O F F I C E RDAVID BONNEY

A D V E R T I S I N G D I R E C T O RMICHAIL K. SHAW

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P

P U B L I S H E RSTU NIFOUSSI

E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O RHANS GSCHLIESSER

M A N A G I N G E D I T O RJILLIAN LAROCHELLE

P R O J E C T M A N A G E R LISA MONTEMORRA

D E S I G N E R SCYNTHIA LUCERO

JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E RPEG EADIE

P R E S I D E N T A N D C E OBRITTON JONES

C H A I R M A N A N D C O OMAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may varydepending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012.Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175;Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publish-ers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicitedmanuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of thismagazine may be reproduced without written permission of thepublishers. Volume 10, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark ofBusiness Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent andTrademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

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Seasons change, fashions change, political climates change, but the best of Lux

Bond & Green stays the same. These days, time goes by very quickly and there isn’t time to

catch up and say thank you. So, thank you; thank you for shopping with Lux Bond & Green,

for recommending Lux Bond & Green to your friends and allowing Lux Bond & Green

to help create lasting memories. Without our loyal customers and friends, old and new, we

wouldn’t be able to offer the fabulous merchandise selections and services that we are able

to offer today. We pledge to continue to support our communities through our charitable

donations, which is just another way for us to say “Thank you very much.”

At LBG we are always busy searching for the latest and greatest fashions, values,

quality and coolness in our offerings, and this spring has been no exception. Our buyers

continue to amaze even us with the beautiful collections and great values they have

brought to all our stores. It’s a testament to the relationships we build with our brands and

manufacturers, as we are able to bring you the fi nest jewelry, watches and gifts, in many cases

before anyone else. Our online store is continually improving; our communications through

traditional media and a growing sophistication with social media helps us tell you what’s

up at LBG on a more consistent and content-oriented basis. Please give us your feedback

anytime as we strive to improve day by day.

Join our conversations by registering for our email blasts at www.LBGreen.com

and like us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/#!/LuxBondandGreen. We know we offer

the best of the best and our team of professional gemologists, diamond consultants, brand

ambassadors, watch experts, bridal consultants, service technicians, engravers, goldsmiths,

watchmakers and jewelry designers are always eager to help. Allow our team to continue to

help you for every occasion, and to again thank you for allowing LBG to remain one of the

most prestigious family jewelry companies in America.

Cheers and Happy Springtime!

The Green Family

From Lux Bond & Green

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What’s Happening at

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Holiday Happening at

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JohnHardy.indd 1JohnHardy.indd 1 3/10/12 11:34 AM3/10/12 11:34 AM

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Into

MIKIMOTO ROBERTO COIN

DAVID YURMAN

MARCO BICEGO

TROLLBEADS

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IPPOLITA

JOHN HARDY

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IVANKA TRUMP

HONORA

TEMPLE ST. CLAIR

BELLE ÉTOILE

Into

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SHARI DIXON

EMERALDSFOR MAY

ANGELIQUE

A. JAFFE

CARELLE

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Renovated and renewed.Experience the thrill.

Hoffman Porsche630 Connecticut BoulevardEast Hartford, CT 06108860.289.7721 hoffmanauto.com

The future, unveiled. Meet the next 911.

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Something truly precious holds its beauty forever.

Twenty˜4® steel Ref. 4910/10A, white gold ring.

Begin your own tradition.

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CORE VALUES

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Bright

Confetti Double Old Fashioned GlassesSet of six $85

& BOLD

Bloom Tray by Annie Modica Hand painted then faux fi nished by Annie

and her professional team of artists.12x12“ $235

Alessi Big Love Ice Cream BowlWith heart-shaped spoon

Available in blue, orange, pink and green.$60 each

Assouline Vintage CocktailsThis best seller brings to life the lost art of

mixing the perfect drink. All you need are a few ingredients, the right pour and this book.

$50

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Felt iPad SleeveAvailable in purple, charcoal,

orange, loden green and pistachio.$38 each

Jaunt ToteColorful felt panels and rich

leather for a fresh, modern look.14.5x15x4.5” $235 each

Indulge in a Little Pillow TalkRecycled felt appliqué pillows

XOXO 10x14” $50 Good Life 16x16” $90

Jewelry TraysTurquoise with white interior Purple with fuchsia interiorFuchsia with purple interior

14x10.5x1.75” $40 each

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Mr. and Mrs. Stefan Stolarz (Ania Kolakowski) October 8, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. John Joaquim (Sarah Aldridge) December 30, 2011

Mr. & Mrs. Paolo Mozzicato(Jackie Reiner) September 24, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Matthew Palmer Lischick(Caitlin Elizabeth McLaughlin) June 25, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Martin Topor III (Lisa Szewczyk) July 23. 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Adam Sills (Casey Marks) April 9, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Christopher Houlihan(Carolyn Marziali) September 24, 2011

WeddingsLBG

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Hector J. Irizarry and Beth Leetch IrizarrySeptember 4, 2010

Mr. Howard Cheng and Ms. Amy Cerciello September 17, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. John Perlegos(Patty Bikakis) July 24, 2010

Drs. Adam and Lori Cohen (Lori Watkins) October 22, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Green (Jenna Damareck) October 22, 2011

Bracknell E. Baker and Jennifer A. SicklickJune 17, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Patrick Delahunty(Ashley McCormick) August 20. 2011

Wedding & Gift REGISTRY

www.LBGreen.com

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BAUME & MERCIER

BREITLING

CARTIER

DAVID YURMAN

MICHELE

MONTBLANC

MOVADO

PATEK PHILIPPE

RADO

RAYMOND WEIL

ROLEX

SWISS ARMY

TAG HEUER

FACE

TIMEPIECES

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IMAGINE THE PLACES THEY WILL GO.

T H E O R I G I N A T O R O F C U L T U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .

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CUSTOM DESIGN CENTER

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WE WANTTO BUY

your unwanted jewelry,watches, diamonds and gold,

in any condition.

Immediate payment - Call or visit today!

LUX BOND & GREEN1.800.524.7336

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Adventures in INDIA here in pictures from our incredible trip to the country this past November. We

Gemological Institute of America, sent to meet with customers in our fastest

us to meet our clients, but to listen to their ideas about the quality and delivery of gemological services and educational offerings that the GIA provides around the world. The GIA is the foremost authority in the world of gemology, and after rapid

to smells to tastes, India was unlike any place we’d visited during our many years of travel. We were immersed in the tremendous advances in manufacturing processes, and got to better understand the industry’s newest computer software technologies. The Indian work ethic and growing focus on social and ethical responsibilities were

left us with an insight into the India of today. Our trip to Mumbai was relatively easy – as long as you don’t mind leaving at 5 a.m.

story. We were fascinated by the glimpse of Dubai during our landing and takeoff,

expecting the craziness of a large city, but nothing could have prepared us for the number of motorcycles and three-wheel taxis on the highways

diamond cutting and jewelry making factory. We were fascinated by the advanced computer technology, which allows them to look at rough diamond crystals and determine how to cut for the

2,000 workers were on site at this manufacturing complex – and this was one of the smaller facilities we visited during the trip! Next, we were on to the

and other introductory skills with the assistance of GIA. We were welcomed with a traditional vegetarian curry lunch, then given another factory tour in the

with back-to-back scheduled meetings, followed

by an evening with our GIA management team from

Mumbai. We were entertained with traditional Indian

voices. Our dinner featured foods from around the

country, with lots of curry, coconut and lamb.

I

The Surat Diamond Factory. Notice the bullet holes in the front of the building.

The marketplace in Mumbai.

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laboratory, and got an overview of the development

and growth of the three-year-old enterprise. We were

surprised by a reception with over 400 in attendance,

a very warm and enthusiastic thank you for coming to

Mumbai that culminated with shaking the hands of over

half the smiling Indians and ex-pat staff. Then off to the

beautiful and modern Trident Hotel for our western-

style meal. The evening included a long bus ride to the

famous Taj Palace Hotel, the site of Mumbai’s 2008

terrorist attack, for a dinner with local diamontaires and

industry leaders.On Tuesday morning, we departed at 6:30 a.m. for an

has become the diamond cutting capital of the world, employing over 500,000 workers. This is a city of 3.5

the small airport from Delhi. The terrain is quite beautiful

and Audi dealerships, as well as plenty of cows walking on the roads, before arriving at the towering 10-story factory with over 3,000 workers

by a member of their family – 30 years old, young, articulate, motivated and philanthropic. We had never seen anything like it and felt that it must be the center of the diamond universe…only to visit another almost 400 million dollar business later in the morning! The young manager of the second factory was also the son of one of the partners, and was equally passionate about diamonds, the economy and technology, with an advanced degree as a Metronics engineer. Our small delegation not only listened intently to his manufacturing plans, but some

our discussions with the third company we visited, we thought the family had more of a “by-the-seat-of-their-pants” philosophy – until we saw their technology in manufacturing and investment. We were continually wowed that day, not only by the quality of the product, but by their intelligent and thoughtful approach to business and long-term goals. These insights went a long way toward helping the board understand GIA’s well-earned international reputation. Another industry dinner followed that evening, featuring dance and music in the alcohol-free state. As we had already taken our Malaria pills (in addition to shots for Hepatitis A

wasn’t worried about the mosquitoes that hovered

around us during this outdoor affair. Our 6 a.m.

trip back to the airport was an adventure in itself.

We witnessed the local women at the well carrying

water on their heads, cows roaming the streets

without any supervision, and women sweeping

with homemade brooms. The airport really amused

us; we just couldn’t understand how this large

per day. We were even told that on the previous

10 minutes before we landed! And of course, the

Over $18 million of small diamonds (called melee) from the world’s largest cutter of small diamonds.

Modern technology helps plan the cutting of diamonds. Family and religious photoscan be seen on many desks.

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INDIA continued...

After experiencing these state-of-the-art diamond

manufacturing facilities, our expectations for what we

would see back in Mumbai were admittedly lowered.

interesting, but the fashions seemed very foreign to us,

almost awkward. Then we headed to the expansive

that comprises the largest diamond trading center

in the world. I thought I had seen everything in my

gracious men sat with us to discuss their diamond

business: 22,000 workers, and the challenges and

opportunities they’re facing in this global economy.

After this lengthy meeting, knowing some of the

bursting with polished diamonds. Never in my career had I held or even touched a single bag of diamonds weighing over 7,000 carats, valued at over 4 million dollars – quite exhilarating for our delegation of four. The trust they displayed – placing 18 million dollars worth of diamonds on the table and allowing us to hold and photograph them – was extraordinary. The other delegations at the trading center reported back with similar stories of awe, and the passion, professionalism and commitment displayed by our hosts.

200,000 workers cutting diamonds and colored stones and making silver and diamond jewelry. After breakfast at the fanciest Marriott we had ever seen, we drove to the Indian

clean and bustling city of nearly 4 million inhabitants. While visiting one of India’s oldest

former hunting residence and palace from the 18th century. Here, the colored stone

and gem markets, and of course, treated us to another

traditional curry-laced lunch.

Our last stop was at a shopping emporium, where

we picked up a few traditional souvenirs and said our

farewells to the delegation. After a week of this grueling

hour door-to-door trip, and we were back at the store

the next afternoon. After all, it was the weekend before

Thanksgiving.

Diamond cutters each handcrafting a diamond’s beauty.

GIA India welcomes the Board of Govenors.

Traditions in Surat.

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ACCENT(ADVISOR)

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I KNOW WOMEN WHOWEAR FASHION JEWELRYLIKE BANGLES OR BOLDCUFFS, BUT BUY THESEPIECES AT CLOTHINGSTORES AS OPPOSED TOJEWELERS (EVEN IF THEYHAVE TO REPURCHASETHE PIECES WHEN THEYTARNISH). WHAT AREYOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? I think many women balancetrendy fashion jewelry that theydon’t expect to last foreverwith items that they cherish,wear often and want to last.Since a great bangle is a classicthat will be in style forever, it’sworth investing in somethingboth fabulous and enduring.

WHAT’STHEDIFFERENCEBETWEENANTIQUEJEWELRY ANDESTATEJEWELRY?“Estate” is a popular jewelry

label, but does not specify theperiod of manufacture. “Estate”is primarily used to describejewelry that is previously owned.

The term “antique” generallyapplies to jewelry items that areat least 100 years old, thebenchmark used by governmentofficials for duty-free importingof antiques.

For spring 2012, everythingold is new again, so considerboth of these options, or try re-setting one of your own familyheirlooms.

WHICH CLASSIC/TIMELESSPIECES ARE MOST LIKELYTO BECOME KEEPSAKES OR HEIRLOOMS? Those that hold their value, can be passed to the next generation, or the piece thatbecomes your signature. We have a client who is never (ever!) seen without a beautifulstrand of pearls that her husband bought her many years ago; whether at the grocerystore or at a gala, her pearls say it all. And that’s the key: finding a statement piece ofjewelry (“statement” need not mean “expensive”) and letting it become your trademark.We’ve noticed that when times are tougher and discretionary spending more limited,jewelry becomes even more personal and relationship-driven. If you buy only one itemthis year, make it special and enduring.

WHICH ITEMSSHOULD ICONSIDERBUYING THISSEASON?For both ladies and gents, a good watch is anabsolute must! If you can invest in only one greatpiece of jewelry, let it be a practical and stylishwatch to enjoy for many years. It should cross overinto any activity, and should dress up or down.

When you have more to invest, consider buyingboth a “dress” and a “sports” watch. But in theinterim, one great watch transcends numerousstyles and ventures!

Three other ideas for ladies: 1) a beautiful strandof pearls, either classic round or baroque (uneven)shaped; 2) diamond stud earrings, a true go-with-everything item to wear with denim or ball gowns;and 3) a necklace or pendant with personalmeaning, like your children’s names or initials, animportant date, a display of faith or spirituality. (Ifyou’ve ever noticed women constantly touchingtheir necklaces, it’s likely because they feel anemotional connection to the symbol.)

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PROFILE

SCALINGBACK

First introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th yearin business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragonand the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano

each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl.At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, thewater dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land andbrought prosperity to the Balinese.

Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer andcreative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Nagacollection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune,prosperity and success.

Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to helpthe Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as acollaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “abusiness can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “GreenerEveryday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmentalconservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even theblack palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s HongKong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compoundis a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mudstructures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for theentire workforce there.

The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Baliby these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served asjewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragonheads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Craftedfrom sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semi-precious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earringsare rich with detail, inside and out.

JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGACOLLECTION WITH FIERY NEWDESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OFTHE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

32

“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGACOLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.”

–GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER

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Every story has a bead™

Mother’s Day Trunk Show | May 3 - 6, 2012

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For those who demand perfection, there are few options. Forevermark,part of the De Beers group (the foremost international diamond expertfor 120-plus years), offers only the finest carefully selected, responsibly

sourced diamonds, meticulously cut and inscribed by highly trained mastercraftsmen. Less than one percent of the world’s diamonds are eligible to bearthe Forevermark inscription and only a select group of jewelers (we amongthem) are authorized to sell these incredible gems.

Inscribed using highly advanced proprietary technology, thesesuperlative diamonds feature the Forevermark icon and a uniqueidentification number, both invisible to the naked eye. The actual size of theinscription is one 20th of a micron deep (one 500th the size of a human hair)and can be seen in our store using a special viewer.

Although the inscription in no way affects the exceptional internal qualityof the diamond, it does ensure beauty, rarity, responsible sourcing and addedsecurity. Expert gemologists at The Forevermark Diamond Institute inAntwerp assess each stone according to rigorous standards of integrity andaccuracy. The result is the Forevermark Diamond Grading Report, yourguarantee of excellence and authenticity.

Those of us who are socially conscious should know that Forevermarkdiamonds are guaranteed conflict-free. But more than that, the companygoes above and beyond industry standards to ensure that their sourcingactively benefits communities in their countries of origin, countriescommitted to the highest business, social and environmental standards.

Beauty, rarity and integrity in one quintessential diamond: No wonderForevermark is the jewel of choice for Gwyneth Paltrow, Uma Thurman,Nicole Kidman, Michelle Williams and fabulous women everywhere, on andoff the red carpet.

QUINTESSENTIALDIAMONDS

THERE ARE DIAMONDS, AND THERE ARE FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

PROFILE

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Fall in Love

C L A S S I C | T I M E L E S S | TA I L O R E Ddiamond bands in platinum and 18kt. gold

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DESIGNERS

WARM GOLD AND SATURATEDSEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO

BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTIONTO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GETTING PERSONALWhat are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration. What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casualand fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani. What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino!Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair todebut my newest collections.

COLOR POPS

In the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remainedunchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almostall of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic

to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’shistory. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition betweencollections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered.

“I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season ourcustomers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there arealways constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—anemotional feeling.”

This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection,filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites asabsolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelrywardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspiredby unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lavaof Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-goldjewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn byAfrican women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth thatevokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler andoften names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after thedestinations that inspire them.

When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes thechance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccerleague and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors,exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I findin everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course,he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”

The bold spheresand jewels of theAfrica collectionare tangible andpronounced, yetremarkably light.

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World renowned for its elegance,innovation and unique attention todetail, Penny Preville jewelry has

been worn by fashionable women from JackieOnassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, anexclusive interview with the designer. How did you first get interested injewelry design?As a little girl, I’d go into New York City everySunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, aself-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her ParkAvenue apartment. It was filled with amazingartwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces.But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box,overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels:exquisite pieces from different eras that mygrandfather bought her. I would touch them, trythem on, dream about them. My other grandmotherwas an artist (she painted Limoges china) as wasmy mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. Iloved art history, re-living different eras.Describe your jewelry and the process tocreate it.Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,

elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail:beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture…

My jewelry is made by artisans here in NewYork City: we start with an original model andmost of the work is done by hand: engraving,stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending onthe piece, the process can take a few days to afew months.What inspires your designs?Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics.Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian,Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…)How would you describe your personalstyle? What are your favorite jewelry pieces?There are two sides to me: very driven andpractical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl.My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a widescroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tieevents, and a thin diamond bangle that I weareveryday. (It’s part of my body!)

I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamondsfrom the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and ablue star sapphire that my husband’s mother gotfrom her mother…

You work with your husband and twosons: how hard is it to combine businessand family? It can be challenging! Fortunately, we haveseparate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay(who started the business with me) managesfinancial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32)and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and willhopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boysto join us: growing up, they were into sports andshowed little interest in the business. What are the key jewelry looks for 2012?Long chains, statement earrings, bangles andcuffs to mix and match, collectibles, differentstones, blackened metals and lots of color(especially blues!). I also believe in the mysticalpowers of certain stones—for strength or forprotection. What does a woman’s jewelry say about her?It’s reflects her style and individuality; it providesinsight into who she is as a person: spiritual,sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching awoman select jewelry: when she finds the perfectpiece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.

38

Signature Style

DESIGNERS

PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE ANDFABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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After you satisfy your taste buds at one of our fine restaurants, indulge your good taste at our unique collection of shops. It’s a delicious experience you won’t want to miss. Call 1.888.226.7711 or visit mohegansun.com.

pizzazz.It’s dining with a whole lot of

Shops: Bare Escentuals • Brewster’s Trading Post • Brighton Collectibles • Brookstone • Caché • Cascade Electronics Chico’s • Citizen Watch • Clay Pipe • Coach • Everything Under The Sun • Galina’s European Boutique • Godiva Chocolatier Lalo Treasures • Landau • Lush • Lux Bond & Green • Margaritaville’s Smuggler’s Hold • Oriental Fine Arts & Crafts • PUMA Sephora • Spin Street • Sun Shoes • Sunglasses USA • Swarovski • The Essentials • The Old Farmer’s Almanac General Store Tiffany & Co. • Tommy Bahama • Trading Cove • Trailblazer • Yankee Candle Restaurants: Ballo • Bar Americain • Ben & Jerry’s Big Bubba’s BBQ • Birches Bar & Grill • Bobby’s Burger Palace • Chief’s Deli • Dunkin’ Donuts • Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana Geno’s Bagels, Sweets & Subs • Geno’s Fast Break • Geno’s Pub • Imus Ranch Coffee • Jasper White’s Summer Shack Jasper White’s Summer Shack Express • Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville • Johnny Rockets • Johnny Rockets Express Krispy Kreme Doughnuts • Lucky’s Lounge • Michael Jordan’s 23.sportcafe • Michael Jordan’s Steak House • Seasons Buffet SolToro Tequila Grill • Starbucks Coffee • Sunrise Square Food Court • The Dubliner • The Original SoupMan Todd English’s Tuscany • Wok-On by Geno’s Fast Break

Conveniently located in Mystic Country.

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FROM THE RUNWAYS

GoldGO FOR THE

IMAG

ES C

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SY O

F AC

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RAINBOWBright

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Create a charm bracelet one memory at a time.

Thousands of charms in silver and gold.

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DarkAND DANGEROUS

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In 1821, at a horse race in Paris, Nicolas Rieussec successfully tested hisrevolutionary invention that allowed time to be recorded to an accuracy of a fifth of a second. The chronograph was born. Today, the Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic is a tribute to 190 years of the chronograph’s technical evolution. 43 mm stainless steel case, skelleted horns and sapphire crystal back, black dial with red gold-plated hands and indexes. Crafted in the MontblancManufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.

190 YEARS AGOA MAN BET ON HORSES AND CHANGED

WATCHMAKING FOREVER.

m o h e g a n s u n

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Natural DiamondNot Synthetic

Color Grade

E

Clarity Grade

VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry NumberGIA 16354621

Carat Weight

1.53

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.

A GIA report is certainty from the source.

As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™

GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientifi c.

A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who o! er them. www.4cs.gia.edu

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WATCHESACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012

CO

UR

TESY

LIT

ITZ

WAT

CH

TEC

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FOCUS: WATCHMAKING by Karen Alberg Grossman

The first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone buildingnestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with astrong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the

lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in thisRolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemedprincipal Herman Mayer.

Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, andrespect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to developindependent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, ofcourse, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable,well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmakerof today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the high-end watch culture,” Mayer maintains.

His intense two-year program, establishedin 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totallyseparate from the Rolex Service Centerupstairs in the building). Mayer is personallyresponsible for creating and updating thecurriculum, which is also used at watchmakingschools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features sixmain areas of training: history/culture, micro-mechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer serviceand case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.

The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students(there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’san intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunchbreak) and requires much outside reading and research. According toMayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking intheir free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these twoyears, they pay for later on…”

Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoningto social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine

watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnoseproblems just visually. You need to analyzebased on input and output of the mechanism:it’s behaving a certain way so the problemmust be this or that. You can’t always see theproblem because many watches are built inlayers, so the movements might be covered,or else just too small.”

Mayer admits that among his greatestfrustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK

A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE

AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

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skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this,but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a veryvisual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything soyoung people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmakingcurriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductivereasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”

Why are these skills so critical? “Because evenif the student has worked on hundreds of watches,the next movement that comes along might betotally different than anything he’s experienced. Soit’s not a matter of simply learning to piece thepuzzle together: students need to understand whatthe parts do and how they interact and whether ornot the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rarewhen you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt waterdamage where parts are caked together), becauseeven if spare parts are not available, we can alwaysmake the parts. That’s what we teach them in the‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”

According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is mid-to late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 andmostly male; there are only one or two females perclass), in a second career but with some previousexposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had someexposure, at least they know what the profession isabout: having to deal all day long with these tinyparts, the responsibility of working on suchvaluable pieces. Of course, there are always somewho drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recentapplicants have included bankers and real estatebrokers, some from major cities. “People havemore appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates whowant jobs get them.”

Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and buildwatches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer,“It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, withmentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with importantdecisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of

the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in

Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focusedon philology and teaching. But at some point, hislove of watches inspired him to study watchmaking,which led him to servicing jobs in the States, andultimately to Lititz.

In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is acollector: he wears a different watch every day andfavors those that combine technical precision with abeautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititzprogram that he even lets his students work on hispersonal watches (excluding vintage handmadepieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was infact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course:Rolex watches are forever…”

His most meaningful watch is one he inheritedfrom his father. “When my dad returned from WWII,the economy was down so he drove a taxi onweekends. An American soldier who couldn’t affordthe fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it everyday for years but at some point, it was difficult to getreplacement parts because their factory had burneddown. Observing the watchmaker adapting spareparts by hand was my first exposure to the craft andits artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”

Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take theloupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue withmembers of your professional environment. You need to actively live theexciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

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“Nobody buysa fine watch justto tell time…” —Herman Mayer

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SEREIN DIAMOND

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FOCUS: WINDERS by Laurie Kahle

Like early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need forwinding, watch winders originated as practical items to keeptimepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience

factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. Theyensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout themechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system bylimiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking evermore elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasuresenergized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuringinlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor componentsand stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxuryfurnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—theultimate of which is a completely custom installation. (Continued)

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WINDING IT UPTRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

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Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and presidentof Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch fromhis wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated bythe need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved theproblem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, tokeep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist.Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests,and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was aconvenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned thatwhen a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricantscan wick away from moving parts, so keeping yourwatch on a winder is also about preventativemaintenance that can extend its life.”

Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed toaccommodate your ever-growing collection andcater to your personal needs. “It became a sort oflifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandablestorage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, ahumidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in theItalian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,”explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standardconfiguration—like buying a car and adding options.”

A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg ofAustria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand andtailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation.The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, displaycabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watchesand jewelry.

The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a modelproduced in partnership with Aston Martin. TheObject of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlesslycombines a safe, a collection of the brand’sproprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors,storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound systemwith a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and aflying minute tourbillion clock. The striking designemulates the muscular curves of the One-77supercar, which, like the winder, has a limitedproduction of 77 pieces.

The next level of watch storage is building acustom room, like the space commissioned by one ofOrbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,”

explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room(basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoyhis collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storageunits that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storagedrawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through thatkind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” saysAgnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eightmonths from concept to completion.

Luckily, you have options.

54

Winders have entered the realm

of luxury furnishingswith an array of

options to create apersonalized unit.

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

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©20

11 m

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oup,

inc. DEREK JETER. humanitarian, leader, athlete.

new series 800® chronograph.performance steel™ case.

black aluminum tachymeter bezel.black dial, leather strap.

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FOCUS: PROFILE by Randi Molofsky

Awalk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulatesmuch of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an ArtDeco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style.

It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with aninnate understanding of classic design.

From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami.The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit offlash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’sseaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam.Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from theJelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chicstandouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepiecesmake a big statement at affordable prices.

Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly

recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern takeon a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular patternand oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’sround case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel andchronograph dial (available with or without diamonds).

One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is alsoreinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-at-me neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals inmint, coral and steel.

Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’scommitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety ofstraps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather,cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze,whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.

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SO HOT THEY’RE COOLMICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.

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FOCUS: COLLECTING by David A. Rose

Among the many rewards of successin sports, perhaps the best isgarnering the respect and

admiration of fans and peers. But for thoseathletes competing in Rolex-sponsoredevents, the grand prize comes in the form ofa luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set forthemselves long before they’re strappedinto their racecars.

One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn,California, is a true champion in all forms ofmotor sports, with the additional honor ofhaving won more Rolex-sponsored racesthan any other driver. Thus, he has becomethe proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces.

Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also wonthe Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times andwas awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. Inall, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for hisbrilliant race wins.

“My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “WhenI won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and FordMotor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as theInternational Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to beinvited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I wereever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolextimepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California,and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on totake the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy myfirst beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruettalso bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)

As a world famous racecar driver stillat the top of his game, it’s remarkable thatPruett makes time for other ventures. Heand his wife Judy have joined forces toestablish Pruett Vineyard, as well as WordWeaver Books, publishers of a series ofchildren’s books they authored. Notsurprisingly, the theme is racing, includingtitles like Twelve Little Race Cars, RookieRacer and Racing Through the Alphabet.Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racingcareer, these books provide inspiration andexcitement for young readers.

As for his winemaking business,Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrumsapart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literallyminute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds.Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process;the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend ofchemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m notone of these athletes who puts my name on a project withoutinvolvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved inevery aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help ofsome incredible winemakers.”

Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has racedevery year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was anotherextraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-AmRolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece.“At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “sobeing the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted:I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.”

58

TIME ON HIS SIDESCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.

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There are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at thespa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talkingabout adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators.

From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as ade rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such bigbuzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all ofwhich are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equallyimportant, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned aroundexhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new tothe market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.

COLORS TO CHEER ABOUTWhen “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as theColor of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in bothfashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’sattention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the realitythat not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tonesof tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways.

“But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. Ifyou’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this colorin accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statementpiece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but Iwent shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows.Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure ofchildhood abandon come back into your life.”

Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman,for fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow,“Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing alot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without beingtoo out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and greatfor blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for springand summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and“Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brownfamily are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-gettinggemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.

SOME REALLY COOL CUTSWhile classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important,so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs androse cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models atthe 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelryawards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstonesand cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit policedrama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporarygemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.” DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem onthe bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look.Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks toclever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gemslices with complementary opaque stones.”SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The

RENEWAL!THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS,

NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EMGEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY

BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

TRENDS

Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K goldHaute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and blacksapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires.

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flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much likenatural light shining through a stained glass window.Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides,depending on the designer’s individual vision.Helena Krodel, director of media and specialevents for Jewelers of America, says, “Thinkabout gemstone-slice earrings if you wantsomething lightweight and, at the sametime, very flattering; they bring light andcolor near the face.”ROUGH CUTS These asymmetricallyshaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for themost part, three dimensional, almostsculptural. They have an inherent, organic beautybecause they aren’t precision-cut to mathematicperfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind.Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry lineand president of the Contemporary Jewelry DesignGroup, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted andauthentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designswith rough cuts are a great choice.”ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cutshave been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usuallycircular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed oftriangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. Ifyou’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cutand a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year,rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing upeverywhere.

...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMSBarbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored GemstoneAssociation, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, shepoints to five gems she sees trending—especially in light offashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likelymeans these gems will get even morepopular as we progressthrough 2012.A TOP TANGERINEFIRE OPAL: Theseradiant orange-redgemstones arerenowned in legendand lore for theirpositive effect on thepsyche. That said, youmay have to pay the pricefor that profound sensation ofpeace and harmony! Often thecost of these expressive and fierygems is determined by the play of color,body color and transparency. “Fireopal is really popular in Asia,” saysWheat. With tangerine as this year’s“Color ot the Year,” it will likely getstronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandaringarnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel,

spessartite garnet, red agate.A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This

transparent diaspore gem, foundonly in Turkey, hasn’t been usedmuch in jewelry—until now.

With its inherently interestingcolor-change properties—from kiwi green tochampagne brown toraspberry pink—it’scertainly out of theordinary, and the perfectchoice for anyone lookingfor something unique or a

true conversation starter.Other favorites: chrysoprase,

green agate, peridot, green opal,green jade, green quartz, green

amethyst, green garnet, greentourmaline.

A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately,citrine has been particularly popular, both for itscolor and the variety of cutting styles being used

on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and oftenaffordable prices, citrine has recently captured the

fancy of a growing number of typically high-enddesigners, many mixing it with a range of orange andpink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of

overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl,chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire.

A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most in-vogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new,

March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlightedin designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes,

aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in largesizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing

number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for theirengagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid

color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea—captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite,

sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz.A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of

the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more andmore by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly

one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony iswell liked in its blue and green varieties, too.“Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is

hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” saysWheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite,

pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.

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Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace byStephen Webster.

Bottom: Bracelets from Ippolita’s Silk Roadcollection in 18K gold, featuring peach moonstone,aquamarine, gray and white moonstone, mother of

pearl, champagne citrine, labradorite and bluetopaz doublet

EVERYONE ISTALKING ABOUT

ADDING GEMSTONEJEWELRY TO THELIST OF NATURAL

MOOD ELEVATORS.

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For those who dig classic conceptual cuisine outside of the traditionalrestaurant box setup, David Burke has becomesomewhat of a hero. In addition to his classic

surf and turf joints, Chef Burke holds court with hisfancy foods inside a Bloomingdale’s, a bowling alleyand an airport. If by chance you don’t recognize theoft-showy culinologist (an expert who blends culinaryarts and food technology) with a penchant forwhimsically sculpting his dishes to dazzlediners by name, there’s still a decentchance you’ve eaten in one of his 10restaurants, or purchased his gourmetproducts. (“Burke in the Box” take-out meal at Las Vegas’ McCarranAirport, anyone?) Or perhaps you’llrecall his very near win against BobbyFlay on Iron Chef, or his too-early kiss-off from Top Chef Masters.

Chef Burke has been a longtimepioneer in the biz of celebrity chefery,cooking up a career that “blurs the linesbetween chef, artist, entrepreneur and

inventor.” His factory of fabulous foodspots tantalizes taste buds through aslew of dramatically different spaces, with entertaining concoctionsappearing on plates throughout New York, and in New Jersey, Chicago,Connecticut and Las Vegas. Then there’s David Burke Townhouse, DavidBurke’s Primehouse, Fromagerie, David Burke Prime, Fishtail by DavidBurke and David Burke Kitchen. Burke is also the mastermind behindPastrami Salmon, GourmetPops, flavor-transfer spice sheets and variousflavor sprays and oils. He’s got two cookbooks and even DAVID BURKE

Magazine. We managed to catch this Renaissance man at his localgreenmarket, shopping for fresh, in-season finds.

You have so many titles! Chef, entrepreneur, artist,inventor.... Which do you feel describes you best?I’ve always felt at home in the kitchen. I was a dish washerin high school. I’d work on the weekends, and that’s when Ifell in love with the idea of working in a kitchen. I get realexcitement from the energy and creative teamwork that

happens in there. So all of the other things I am today cameout of me working in the kitchen. I get a real satisfaction out

of putting together a good product for someone else to enjoy.

MAKING MAGICIN THE FIRST INSTALLMENT OF OUR LEGENDARY CHEF SERIES, WE DISCOVER THAT

DAVID BURKE IS MUCH MORE THAN A WHIZ IN THE KITCHEN. BY SHIRA LEVINE

FOOD

Above: The lively dining room at Fishtail by David Burke.Left: David Burke, longtime pioneer of celebrity chefery.

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Many of today’s entrepreneurial celebrity chefs don’t actuallydo the cooking anymore, but shift their focus to the businessside of things. I still do cook in my kitchens, but it’s been a natural progression for me tobe in and out of the kitchen when need be. I made an early decision that Iwas going to conquer one level of this business at a time. After I reachedthe level of what I truly felt was “me as a good chef,” then it was time to bepartner in a company. Then the next course was to start my own company.I was one of the first chefs to do that. That road had not been paved yet. Itwas the late ’70s and the beginning of modern American food and of chefsas businessmen.

A lot of the David Burke dining experience is about setting thescene, and your restaurants each have very specific, thought-out designs. Would you describe yourself as fashion forward?When you work in the kitchen it’s nearly impossible to be fashion forward!But we do take a lot of pride in the ambiance and décor of the restaurants,especially Townhouse and Kitchen. I was very involved in helping decoratethem, but I’m not a designer. Kitchen is supposed to feel dark and woodsy,comfy—like a home. Bloomingdale’s has an intimate neighborhood feel. Oursteakhouses are more masculine.

What are some other ideas you’re currently excited about?We have a moveable garden in a parking lot at the Rumsfield, New Jerseyrestaurant. This summer we’re going to put each of the gardens in little redwagons so they can move around easily. When guests walk into therestaurant, they will be greeted with a bushel of tomatoes and basil plantsthat they can cut themselves and bring to the hostess. Then we’ll prepare itat the table as part of their appetizer. I just love the idea of that.

What’s your overall food philosophy?I’m always looking to cut out the middleman as much as possible. It’s whatis most economically sound for us. I am always in a local produce marketmyself. We’ve done it with our bread, our dairy and our produce. Fish andseafood are next. We’re also currently building a dry beef company with mypatented salt treatment. Our beef comes from right here in New Jersey. Ibought a bull five years ago in Kentucky so I would know exactly where mybeef comes from and can ensure the quality of what we’re serving. We havethe product down to the genetics, for the perfect marbleization and grading.It was superior planning on our part. We always want to know where ourstuff is coming from.

Do you think all the recent hype around “local” and “seasonal”is silly? Haven’t good chefs been doing this all along? The seasonal and local thing has been done forever, but it hasn’t beentouted. It’s being emphasized now because of the the state of the economy,and high fuel prices. All the recent PR is good, especially since it helpssupport American farmers, but it’s always been what we try to do. However,you have to understand, it’s hard to do local in Chicago in the winter. It’sabsolutely what the mom and pop shops should be aiming for, but it’s hardfor big [national] chains to do it. It’s tough to be 100 percent local; youmight simply not have a good local person for something you need.

How do you please loyal customers who request something thatisn’t in season?In New Jersey we have a lot of clientele who want calamari, but it’s not local

there. In those cases we make exceptions—it’s what the customers want!But when it comes to fruit and people wanting raspberries or blueberriesyear round, we suggest maybe trying a dish with mango or pineapple.

Your menus run the deliciously garish gamut, from BowlmorLanes’ badass burger replete with applewood-smoked bacon,spicy tempura shrimp, cheddar cheese and blue cheese slaw, toDavid Burke Kitchen’s pretzel crabcake with tomato, orangeand green peppercorn. What do you love to order when you eatout, and what do you like to cook at home? I love ordering Peking duck! For myself, I love to prepare pasta. I’ll makegemelli with sweet sausage, tomatoes, olive oil and butter. When I cook forfriends and family, I love to prepare a whole roasted fish, chicken, squab orturkey. My favorite is roasted squab foie gras, cabbage with corn bread andpickled onions.

Is there anything you wish your guests would be a little moreadventurous about trying?Game birds, sweet potatoes and kidneys!

Maple Bacon DatesYields 20 stuffed dates

INGREDIENTS:1⁄4 pound peanuts2 1⁄2 ounces honey1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1⁄2 minced jalapeño 20 Medjool dates, cut in half 10 strips of par-baked smoked bacon20 seedless grapes 1 eggFlourBreadcrumbs

METHOD: 1. Heat peanuts, honey and cayenne pepper until caramelized.Cool and puree.2. Stuff puree into Medjool date half, then wrap with a half pieceof par-baked smoked bacon. 3. Lightly beat egg. Dredge grapes in flour, dip in egg wash,then breadcrumbs. Place into a deep fryer filled with hot oil andfry until crispy.4. Place grapes, and then bacon wrapped dates, on bambooskewers and serve.

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At its best, eco-friendly travel makes every day feel like the world isnew. Full immersion in an exotic natural environment makes everysound clearer, every smell sweeter, every sight sharper, every taste

more delicious. At the destinations below, getting away becomes a journeyof coming home to the senses.

EDEN IN THE OCEAN:Cruise the Galapagos with EcoventuraThe arc of the sun and rise and fall of the tides measure the days asEcoventura’s luxury motor yachts cruise the Galápagos Islands. The volcanic

archipelago straddling the equator 400 miles west of Ecuador standsoutside human time. Under the tutelage of two naturalists per 10-cabinvessel, a one-week voyage is an intimate engagement with the planet’sleast-spoiled corner.

When you see the lay of the islands from atop a volcanic cinder cone,you immediately grasp the archipelago’s violent birth. Other hikes acrossblack lava moonscapes to sandy coves reveal the resilience of bird andanimal life. Protected since 1959 as a national park, every ecological niche ofthe islands is inhabited by creatures that view human intruders as a curiosityrather than a threat. You stare roosting seabirds in the eye, and watch blue-

GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THE WORLD CAN BRING YOUTO YOUR SENSES. BY PATRICIA HARRIS AND DAVID LYON

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The view from thelounge attached toone of the suites atAmangiri makes thedesert seem like aprivate space.Coffee is alwaysavailable for earlyrisers on theEcoventura yachts inthe GalapagosIslands.

ECO-IMMERSION

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footed boobies in their comiccourtship dance. Male frigatebirds nearly roll overbackwards on their nests,incapacitated by the red chestpouches they have inflated tolure a mate.

The strange creaturesinhabit their own Garden of Eden. Sea lions bask on the beach nursing theirpups, flightless cormorants literally “neck” as they court, giant tortoiseslumber through highland meadows, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabsskitter across black rocks in the surf. Park rules forbid touching the wildlife,but no one has told the sea lions not to waddle over to sniff a human’s toes.(Their whiskers tickle.) ecoventura.com

RAINFOREST RHYTHMS:Costa Rica Escape at Lapa RiosLapa Rios Ecolodge crouches where Central America’s last lowlandrainforest meets the beach in Costa Rica. A model of ecologically sensitivetourism since 1993, the main lodge and 16 thatched bungalows nestle in theforest overlooking the ocean. Scarlet macaws chatter from branches andtree frogs sing all night, reminding you that Lapa Rios is the humanexception in a 930-acre private nature reserve.

More than 300 species of birds have been logged at Lapa Rios and

birders seek the glint of feathers, the flurry of flight, and burble of song toadd to their life lists. Guided hikes in the rainforest uncover exotic flora andfauna—from more than 200 species of orchids to nectar-licking kinkajous,distant relatives of the raccoon. For a complete immersion in the rainforestexperience, join an off-site excursion into the wild river canyon of ElRemanso to spend an afternoon rappeling down a series of four waterfalls.laparios.com

MANTRAS OF THE CANYONS:The Purifying Desert at AmangiriFor thousands of years, people have sought enlightenment and rejuvenationin the purifying spareness of the desert. Amangiri, which means “peacefulmountain,” hunkers down in a southern Utah desert valley looking south atGrand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Blending into the rawlandscape of bluffs and mesas with an architecture as minimal as awhispered mantra, the resort is constructed around a swimming pool oasis.

After a day of hiking amid hoodoos and step-rocks, retreat to the25,000 square foot spa where hot stone massage and full-bodytreatments aim to restore the Navajo concept of Hozho, which translatesas “beauty, harmony, balance, and health.” To encourage meditation, dailygroup yoga classes are offered in the light-flooded yoga pavilion. Butnothing so brightens the spirit as escaping the resort’s circle ofillumination at night to commune with a dark desert sky awash with stars.amanresorts.com

The giant tortoises of theGalapagos Islands are

one of the region’sendangered species.

The step pool at the spa atAmangiri glows in the falling

light of dusk.

In Galapagos, unconcerned sea lionslet photographers snap their portraitswith abandon.

Sunsets (and sunrises)are spectacular in the

Galapagos Islands.

All thebungalows atLapa Rios inCosta Rica areconstructed ofthatch.

The foot hue ofblue-footed boobiesvaries by individual.

STRANGECREATURESINHABIT THEIROWN GARDENOF EDEN

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Growing up, an “outdoor kitchen” (if such a term even existed) generallymeant a portable barbecue sitting atop an aqua-colored slab of cement.Basketweave plastic lounge chairs might be protected by a corrugated

tin awning, and Dad spent more time swearing at non-functioning equipment thanactually grilling. Today, a host of high-tech innovations, weatherproof customappliances, and a desire to maximize the social space of even the largest houseshave redefined the concept of cooking and dining al fresco.

“We actually require our homeowners to include a summer kitchen in

their construction,” says Page Pierce, vice president of Walt Disney WorldResort’s new Golden Oak luxury housing development. The community,which opened last September with eight homes, will eventually host asmany as 800 homes, along with a top-tier restaurant and demonstrationkitchen, community center and other amenities. Homeowners have VIPaccess to the neighboring Disney theme parks, along with available perkslike door-to-park car service, concierge services for the greater Orlandoregion and access to special and private events.

AL FRESCOTODAY’S OUTDOOR KITCHENS ARE FOR MORE THAN JUST GRILLING BURGERS.

BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

HOME

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"Outdoor kitchens are about being social, notabout formality,” says architect Doug Burdge,who designed the spaces above and left.

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“One of our thoughts in planning Golden Oak was to not create adevelopment that was just boxes,” says Pierce. “Because this is Florida, it’simportant to celebrate the indoor/outdoor living we’re able to enjoy.” At aminimum, most houses have a covered area with a great barbecue, outdoorsink, refrigerator and outdoor seating. But they can get much moreelaborate. “Some have remote control retractible screens to keep the bugsout while allowing flow from the indoor kitchen, past the summer kitchen,all the way to the swim-up bar.”

Flow, and the efficient use of indoor/outdoor space seem to be keyingredients in designing a successful outdoor kitchen. “When we pay taxesand insurance on a house, we’ve paid for the environment around thathouse,” says Julian Exclusia of Florida Builder Appliances, an upscale divisionof Sears Holding Corporation. “We’re not just sitting in a cubby hole.”Exclusia works with athletes, entertainers and others to design and equipcustom homes, and he’s critical of some architects who “hide” a house’skitchen in the corner. “If you’re entertaining, you’re looking at the expanse,or you should be, whether it’s the Colorado Rockies or the Caribbean.”

Christopher Grubb, president of Arch Interiors in Beverly Hills, notes that“we’re trying to create a cohesive look and bring these spaces together.” Hisfull-service design firm has created several L.A.-area outdoor spaces,featuring popular elements like warming drawers, beer taps and an outdoorpizza oven, adding utility and distinction. Doug Burdge, a Malibu architect,designed an oceanfront property with not one, but three outdoor spaces: agrill area, a semi-enclosed chef’s kitchen and a rooftop social space.

“Outdoor kitchens are now a part of almost every design we do.”Many significant outdoor improvements, however, tend to happen after

completion of the house itself. This seems, in a large part, due to theeconomy. “In Southern California right now, 99% of all the home contractsare improvements on existing properties, not new construction,” saysGrubb. Meanwhile in Florida, Exclusia notes that banks are reluctant tofinance what they see as an elective (and expensive—elaborate kitchenscan run $50,000 to $100,000 or more) element. Thus, even high-endcustom homeowners are completing the house first, then financing theoutdoor activity spaces. However, Grubb notes that a professional, well-designed outdoor kitchen and social area could add hundreds of thousandsof dollars or more in resale value to a luxury property.

There are other reasons to design a space more elaborate than theaverage lonely Weber grill on an island of concrete. Owners whorent their homes for charity events or other gatherings effectively

double or triple the number of available hosting venues (or, alternatively,keep guests and visitors outside, away from living areas and damage-pronefurnishings).

Simple physics may also be at play in the rising popularity of theoutdoor kitchen. “We’ve kind of peaked on our maximum house size,” saysJeff Dross, corporate director of industry trends for Kichler Lighting. “So alot of architects are building in courtyards, adding large glass walls, andcreating indoor/outdoor flow. You’re essentially adding more rooms, andyour yard becomes a really nice, usable space.”

Today'soutdoorkitchens aredesigned toensure thatentertainment,design andservice flowsmoothly frominside tooutside.

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Long before “café culture” flourished in Paris and Vienna, it thrived inBudapest. The joy of coffee drinking was introduced by the invadingOttoman Turks in the 1500s, and by Budapest’s Golden Age,

between 1870 and 1910, there were some 500 coffee houses in the city.In their heyday, Budapest’s cafés were cherished rendezvous spots for

aspiring writers, poets, artists and intelligentsia of all stripes. People spenthours in their favorite café, sharing ideas and reading the many newspapersand periodicals available to patrons. Before the age of television and theInternet, for up-to-the-minute news and the most interesting gossip, you’dhead to one of these cafés.

During this period, the cafés were so central to daily life that when thefirst early film reels appeared, they were projected on walls in the cafés.(Two eventual film industry giants, director and producer Sir AlexanderKorda and Oscar-winning director Michael Curtiz, were first introduced tomovies this way. Later on, in Casablanca, Curtiz would recreate Budapest’scafé atmosphere on the set of Rick’s Café.)

Most of the classic Budapest coffee houses had sumptuous interiors,plush furnishings, gleaming chandeliers, and high, frescoed ceilings to rivalthe Sistine Chapel. But, after two World Wars and the Communist era inHungary, the old famous cafés had been destroyed or closed. In recent years,many of these once-grand cafés have been restored to their original splendor.

NEW YORK CAFÉ Opened in 1894 on the ground floor of a stylish officecomplex, designed by architect Alajos Hauszmann and financed by a New Yorklife insurance company, the café was a favorite haunt of the writers and editorswho worked in the building (now a five-star Boscolo hotel). For strugglingwriters, the New York provided free ink and paper and offered a low-cost“writer’s menu” (bread, cheese and cold cuts). During Budapest’s Golden Age,much of the city’s creative business took place here or at the Café Central.

CAFÉ CENTRÁL Opened in 1887, the Central was a popular meetingplace for writers, poets, editors and artists. In the 1890s, writers sitting

CAFÉ SOCIETYAT BUDAPEST’S FAMOUS CAFÉS, OLD WORLD CHARM IS NEW AGAIN.

BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

CULTURE

Above: New York Café; during Budapest’s Golden Age, it was ahotbed of creative activity.

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61 Central Street (Rt. 135) Wellesley, MA 02482 !781" 237#0916 www.wasiks.com

As proprietors of one of the oldest and busiest full-service cheese counters in the country, the Wasik family has quietly and dutifully set the standard for serving the highest caliber of cheese in the industry. Located in Wellesley, Massachusetts, !e Cheese Shop, (known to locals as Wasik’s) is an old-time family business where cheeses are nurtured and matured under proper conditions, selected for and matched to our customers needs, and cut to order at the time of sale to insure freshness. For the past 30 years the sta" at Wasik’s has been creating gift baskets for all occasions. !ese baskets serve as tasteful housewarming o"ers, appropriate o#ce gifts, classic holiday presents, weekend getaway goodies, and tokens of respect at times of sorrow. !e main emphasis of a gift basket from Wasik’s is the QUALITY OF PRODUCTS assembled to make up each package. We simply won’t include a product if we wouldn’t take it home and enjoy it ourselves. If you would like to design your own custom basket please call us or simply stop by the shop to choose your own goodies. !ese baskets are available for delivery within the Greater Boston area (additional charge) or they can be shipped nationwide through UPS in climate-controlled boxes.

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around the café began an influential literary periodical, A Hét (Week). A fewyears later, another group of regulars, who divided their time between theCentral and the New York, launched Nyugat (West), which became one ofthe most influential Hungarian literary journals of the early 20th century.

CAFÉ GERBEAUD Founded by confectioner Henrik Kugler in 1858, thisis regarded as one of the most elegant and refined cafés. In 1884, its Swisspastry chef, Emile Gerbeaud, took over the establishment, making it asfamous for its cakes as its coffee.

BOOKCAFÉ PÁRIZSI ÁRUHÁZ This stunning café is located on the thirdfloor of what is now the Alexandra bookstore. The Art Nouveau building,designed by Zsigmond Sziklai, was opened in 1911 as Párizsi Nagy Árúház,Budapest’s first modern department store. The café, in Lotz hall, isresplendent with restored frescos (done by painter Károly Lotz), largemirrors and magnificent chandeliers.

MÛVÉSZ KÁVÉHÁZ Around since 1898, its name mûvész means artist.Since the café is located opposite the Budapest State Opera House, it hasattracted its fair share of artists and performers over the years.

CAFÉ GERLÓCZY On a leafy square, in a pretty 1892 building, theGerlóczy has the feel of a Parisian café with its wonderful croissants andfreshly-baked pastries—some consider it the best breakfast in town. Atnight, a harpist adds to the atmosphere. Another unique Gerlóczy offering:15 stylish rooms in its upstairs boutique hotel, so you never have to leave!

Clockwise from top:Centrál Kávéház, apopular meetingplace for writers,poets and artists.The elegant CaféGerbeaud.BookCafé PárizsiÁruház in Lotz hallin the AlexandraBookstore.

Budapest’s Famous CafésThe best time to visit Budapest is between March and October; Delta and American Airlinesoffer direct flights. Visit www.gotohungary.com tolearn more.

New York Café New York Palace Hotel at Erzsébet körút9-11; www.newyorkcafe.hu

Café Centrál Károlyi Mihály utca 9www.centralkavehaz.hu

Café Gerbeaud Vörösmarty tér 7; www.gerbeaud.hu

BookCafé Párizsi Áruház, Alexandra bookstore, Andrássy út 39

Mûvész Kávéház Andrássy út 29; www.muveszkavehaz.hu

Café Gerlóczy Gerloczy u. 1; www.gerloczy.hu

For an interesting read, try The Great Escape. Thiswonderful book by Kati Marton, about influentialHungarians, describes life in the Budapest cafés at theturn of the 20th century.

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wowon the side.

It’s shopping with a heaping order of

After you indulge your good taste at our unique collection of shops, satisfy your taste buds at one of our fine restaurants. It’s a must-have experience you won’t want to miss. Call 1.888.226.7711 or visit mohegansun.com.

Shops: Bare Escentuals • Brewster’s Trading Post • Brighton Collectibles • Brookstone • Caché • Cascade Electronics Chico’s • Citizen Watch • Clay Pipe • Coach • Everything Under The Sun • Galina’s European Boutique • Godiva Chocolatier Lalo Treasures • Landau • Lush • Lux Bond & Green • Margaritaville’s Smuggler’s Hold • Oriental Fine Arts & Crafts • PUMA Sephora • Spin Street • Sun Shoes • Sunglasses USA • Swarovski • The Essentials • The Old Farmer’s Almanac General Store Tiffany & Co. • Tommy Bahama • Trading Cove • Trailblazer • Yankee Candle Restaurants: Ballo • Bar Americain • Ben & Jerry’s Big Bubba’s BBQ • Birches Bar & Grill • Bobby’s Burger Palace • Chief’s Deli • Dunkin’ Donuts • Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana Geno’s Bagels, Sweets & Subs • Geno’s Fast Break • Geno’s Pub • Imus Ranch Coffee • Jasper White’s Summer Shack Jasper White’s Summer Shack Express • Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville • Johnny Rockets • Johnny Rockets Express Krispy Kreme Doughnuts • Lucky’s Lounge • Michael Jordan’s 23.sportcafe • Michael Jordan’s Steak House • Seasons Buffet SolToro Tequila Grill • Starbucks Coffee • Sunrise Square Food Court • The Dubliner • The Original SoupMan Todd English’s Tuscany • Wok-On by Geno’s Fast Break

Conveniently located in Mystic Country.

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My heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartlydressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d beenholding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to

preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entireChristie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantlydressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetablesalads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.

In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused thevarious lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor hadtouched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, peoplepassionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendousinfluence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their ownwardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady wasour shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’“soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”

The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me mypaddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs tothe James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras,I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue fromthe “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac

pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had beenconsidering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was aFebruary Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection—including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyondcomplementing her violet eyes.

The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the“Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the“ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to securea lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time thebidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & ArpelsPisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsicvalue of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenanceand set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I wassadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!

As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasinglydejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, theprice was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander RockefellerCenter and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Lovebracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

LAST BID FOR LOVEAN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

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