PLAN YOUR TRIP

10 Top Experiences ........ 4Welcome to Timor-Leste .................... 11Need to Know ................. 12If You Like... ..................... 14Month by Month ............. 16Itineraries ........................ 18Diving & Snorkelling ....... 20Tour de Timor ................. 23Dili Marathon .................. 27Regions at a Glance ....... 30

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND TIMOR-LESTE

Timor-Leste Today ......... 102History ............................. 105The People ...................... 115Environment ................... 120Living & Working in Timor-Leste .................... 126

13th century Chinese and Javanese

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Diving & Snorkelling

1 Sitting at the southwest corner of the Coral Triangle, the north coast of Timor-Leste and Atauro has some of the best diving going. The reefs are pristine and the sea life is as plentiful as it is

diverse, from nudibranchs to turtles to schooling trevally. The other good news is that most of it can be seen on shore dives. For those that don’t dive – the snorkelling is also some of the best in the word. See p 20 .

4 10 TOP EXPERIENCES

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

1

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101GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

Dili Events Diving Dining

Events Dili hosts, or is the start and nish line, for all of Timor-Leste’s events, including the Dili Marathon and Tour de Timor. Its not all hard work; you can also have a night out at the Sunset Fair.

Diving Some of Timor-Leste’s best diving is right in Dili, over-looked by Embassy Row. You don’t have to go far to see an array of marine life

East of Dili Beaches Diving Trekking

Beaches The white sandy beaches on the north coast that lie east of Dili are amazing, and most of the time you will have them to your-self. For a real slice of paradise, head to Tutuala’s beach.

Diving Some of Timor-Leste’s most renowned dive sites can be found within an hour or so from Dili. Rock walls, schools of

sh and pristine

Smiling, friendly people will welcome you to their country and all it has to offer. Make sure you take them up on it.

Welcome to Timor-Leste

Adventure Awaits Year-Round Timor-Leste richly rewards those who venture to its mountainous interior for trekkinhot springs, dense jungles and raging rivers. Getting there is a major part of the adventurwhether by vehicle, mountain bike, foot or even Timor pony – however, it is well worth the ort.

O shore, you’ll nd Timor-Leste’s greatest treasures in its myriad dive spots. Many these are unnamed, but Dili has excellent dive companies ready to help lead the way. Swia few metres from the beach and there are spectacular drop-o s. The reefs are among thmost ecologically diverse on the planet.

Surfers should note that the south coast also has breaks waiting to be named. And exploring remote islands is your thing, cross the Wetar Strait to Atauro, and keep a looout for migrating whales on the way over. For those who want to take on the world’s tougest bike race, sign up for the Tour de Timor. And if you really want remote, just make foOecussi, the minute enclave in West Timor.

Natural Beauty Everywhere You Look East Timor has jagged mountains, green valleys, thundering rivers, rich marshes and platations of co ee, fruit and rice. There are kilometres of silky white beaches, where youarrival will increase the population by 100%.

On a clear day from the nation’s highest peak, Mt Ramelau, you can see both coasts wita slight head turn. Tutuala Beach at the eastern tip of Timor is nothing less than paradise. short outrigger ride will take you to Jaco Island, the quintessential deserted tropical islanThen again you don’t have to stray far from Dili to get a sense of the natural beauty: pull ua chair on the beach and enjoy the sunset.

A Turbulent History & a Bright Future Almost 40 years after the Portuguese departed Timor-Leste a colonial avour still lingers pockets of Dili, Baucau, Maubara and Balibo, just to name a few. Reminders of the Indonsian occupation and the violence of the 1999 independence referendum are also visible, buthe Timorese are getting on with rebuilding their nation. The charm and grace of the peopembody the seemingly unlimited potential of the country. This tiny nation will fascinathose ready to meet the challenge.

Top Events

Tour de Timo

Dili Maratho

Sunset Fair,

Nativity Scen

Whale-watchDecember

January The year begins with East Timorese heading to the beach for New Year’s Day celebrations. Many of the expats are still on leave

t f t d th t

May The start of the dry season and the visitors’ season. For the next six months Timor-Leste receives the bulk of its

i it it i b t t l

Jun With grinternais the bvisitorsand boo

ll h

Month by Month

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THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Rodney Cocks

#_ East of Dilip58

Southof Dili

p81

Dilip34

Oecussip93

Westof Dili

p74

AtauroIsland

p89

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 134Transport ........................ 141Health .............................. 145Language ........................ 152Index ................................ 162Map Legend .................... 167

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

rrying be sure letter edical a heart

py of efore

ers or reimburse you later for overseas health expenses. Doctors may expect pay-ment in cash.

Recommended Vaccinations Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your best source of information; they stock all available vaccines and will be able to give speci c recom-mendations for you and your trip. The doctors will take into account such factors as past vaccination history, the length of your trip, activities you may be undertaking and underly-

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NEXTPAGETOP EXPERIENCES MAP

timor-leste-east-timor-3-cover.indd 2 15/04/2011 9:53:43 AM

125°E

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Ombar Strait

Mt RamelauSee the sunrise from Timor-Leste’s highest peak (p84)

OecussiExplore mountains and

mud volcanoes (p93)

DiliEnjoy delicious seafood on the beachfront (p50)

Atauro IslandEscape from Dili and

relax at an eco-resort (p89)

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Tutuala Beach

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North CoastIndulge in world-class diving

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DiliCompete in the Dili ‘Cityof Peace’ Marathon (p27)

Wetar StraitSee migrating whalesand dolphins (p46)

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Top Experiences ›

Foreword Timor-Leste is fortunate to now be one of the safest countries in the world. Increasing num-bers of intrepid travellers are being drawn to Timor-Leste for its beautiful seas, majestic mountains, native forests and rich cultures, as well as to partake in a range of adventurous international events. I am pleased to launch the 3rd edition of the Lonely Planet guide for Timor-Leste, which will serve for many as an authoritative reference to experience the boundless wonders of this rare country.

Timor-Leste will delight visitors with its fascinating mix of history, culture and natural beauty. Our beaches, reefs, coff ee plantations, forests and mountains, all in a pristine un-touched natural state, will astound you. Travellers visiting now will share in a unique and historical moment, experiencing a country that is stepping into a peaceful and democratic reality.

The ‘Dili, City of Peace’ campaign has used a series of international sporting and cultural events since 2009 to promote peace in Timor-Leste. Two such annual events, the Tour de Timor and the Dili ‘City of Peace’ Marathon, encourage people to visit Timor-Leste and build bridges between nations. However, the most important eff ect is to off er hope, opportunity and experience for everyone that encounters these exciting events. They showcase the na-tion and allow everyone to see Timor-Leste in ways not possible before.

I invite you to discover Timor-Leste. You will fi nd the Timorese people both welcoming and generous. While in Dili, the ‘City of Peace’, you are most welcome to visit my Presidential Palace, which I have specifi cally designed for the people with free wi-fi internet, a library, museum displays and playgrounds for the children.

I hope you thoroughly enjoy your time in Timor-Leste and we look forward to your re-turn journey to our shores in the future. José Ramos-Horta President of the Republic Timor-Leste

9

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

DILI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

EAST OF DILI . . . . . . . .58DILI TO BAUCAU . . . . . . . . . 59Metinaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59Manleo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Manatuto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Laleia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Vemasse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Baucau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Osolata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63SOUTH OF BAUCAU . . . . . . 64Venilale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Ossu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Loi Hunu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Viqueque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Beyond Viqueque . . . . . . . . 66EAST OF BAUCAU . . . . . . . . 66Laga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Baguia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Laivai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67Lautem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Desa Rasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Lospalos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Tutuala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Tutuala Beach . . . . . . . . . . . .72Jaco Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73

WEST OF DILI . . . . . . . 74NORTH COAST ROAD . . . . . 75Tibar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75Aipelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75Liquiçá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75Maubara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76

Loes River & Atabae . . . . . .76Batugade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77INLAND ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . 77Ermera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Atsabe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Marobo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Road to Zumalai . . . . . . . . . .78Bobonaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Maliana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Balibo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

SOUTH OF DILI . . . . . . 81Dili to Aileu . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82Aileu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82Maubisse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Mt Ramelau . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Aituto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85Same . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85Betano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85East of Betano . . . . . . . . . . 86Ainaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Zumalai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87Suai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87Around Suai . . . . . . . . . . . . 88

ATAURO ISLAND . . . .89Around the Island . . . . . . . 90

OECUSSI . . . . . . . . . . .93Pantemakassar . . . . . . . . . . .95Pantemakassar to Oesilo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98

Itiner-aries

Whether you have six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

10 Days A Taste of Timor-Leste

Spend a couple of days exploring the delights of Dili, and climb up to the iconic Christ Statue on Cape Fatucama. Head east along the coast via Manatuto to laid-back Bau-

cau. This place has real Portuguese fl avour, particularly if you stay at the fi ne old pousada. The next day, continue east through Lautem to Tutuala, perched on a cliff top up at the island’s easternmost end. The amazing beach off ers a choice of two eco-resorts, where you can take an outrigger to Jaco Island. Head west again with an overnight stop at the beach at Com.

The next day drive back to Dili and up into the central mountains for a night at Maubisse, where you can relax at a Portuguese pousada. From here you can take a day trek up to the summit of Mt Ramelau, the highest mountain in Timor-Leste. Alternatively, stay overnight in Hatubuilico and make the trek in the early hours to be at the top for sunrise. Return to Dili for the night and the next day head out to Atauro Island for a night or two. This trip may take longer using public transport.

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One WeekThe South & West Loop

Travelling south or west of Dili gives you a plethora of options. Heading west you

can head up into the mountains and Timor coff ee country through Gleno and Ermera, eventually arriving at Maliana. Alterna-tively, take the coast road to the west pass-ing through the coastal towns of Liquiçá and Maubara with its impressive fort. At Batugade head for the hills and onto Bali-bo and Maliana.

Then head south from Maliana to Bobo-naro. The drive to Zumalai is probably the most spectacular in the country. Overnight in Suai before heading east to either Ain-aro or Same. Going via Same will allow you to explore Betano and its WWII history. Stop at the small village of Hatubuilico for a night, rising early the next day to see the sunrise from Mt Ramelau. Meander back down the central mountains through Maubisse and Dare and its Australian War memorial, and into Dili.

Three to Four WeeksTimor-Leste Explorer

With three to four weeks, it’s possible to visit almost everywhere, especially

if you have your own wheels. Start with a couple of days in Dili and then head west to Batugade, close to the Indonesian bor-der. Turn inland to Balibo for a slice of his-tory, and on to Maliana, overlooking the verdant Nanura Plains. The next day head south via Bobonaro to Suai, with its pretty villages and beach, then turn east and head back into the mountains via either Ainaro or Same to Hatubuilico to climb Mt Ra-melau. Next stop is Maubisse with its old Portuguese pousada, then on to Dili.

From Dili it’s off to the eastern end of the island, stopping along the spectacular coast before overnighting in Baucau. Use Baucau as a base for multinight trips to the colonial relic of Venilale and the eco-resort at Loi Hunu, where you can venture into the ‘Lost World’ of Mundo Perdido. Baguia can also be reached from Baucau, gateway to the former resistance stronghold of Mt Mate-bian. Further east, explore Com, Lospalos, the stunning beach of Tutuala, and Jaco Island. Return to Dili and cap off your trip by heading out to Atauro Island for a few nights.

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1 9

Diving & Snorkelling

Best Dive Sites Tasitolu (p 45 ) An array of fi sh and critters to be seen. Dirt Track (p 71 ) A spectacular wall dive with an abundance of marine life. Manta Cove (p 91 ) Swim among rays and massive groupers at this steep drop-off .

Best Type of Diving Boat You will need to do boat dives to reach nearly all Atauro Island dive sites. Shore Nearly all of the diving on the north coast is accessible from the beach.

CoursesA full range of PADI courses is available, from basic open-water through to instructor courses. Courses start at US$255 and are conducted in Dili by several operators (p 22 ).

Costs Dive Safaris Dive operators can design a bespoke dive safari for you ranging from hundreds of dollars up to thousands. Diving Single shore dives start at US$40. Snorkelling Free, unless you go with one of the dive operators (from US$20).

Websites www.compassadventuretours.com www.divetimor.com www.freefl owdiving.blogspot.com www.timordiver.net

Planning Your Diving & Snorkelling Trip When to Go Diving is possible year-round, although the conditions are smoother and the water clearer during the May to November dry sea-son when visibility is typically 20m to 35m. During the wet season, from December to April, the visibility is still 15m to 20m. Febru-ary is probably the worst month for visibility with some sites aff ected, to varying degrees, by silt run-off from the swollen rivers com-ing from the torrential downpours. It picks up again by mid- to late March, and in April visibility is once again excellent. September is great for manta rays and, if you are lucky, whale sharks. Some dive sites can experi-ence strong currents and are more suitable for advanced, experienced divers. The water temperatures fl uctuates between 26°C and 28°C year-round.

Why is the Diving So Good? The diving in Timor-Leste is world class, thanks to a perfect mix of cool, deep water, undamaged reefs, underfi shed marine life and its prime location in the Coral Triangle. Ocean trenches that reach several kilome-tres deep yield cool thermoclimes that reju-

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venate the coral life, which is also relatively untouched compared with Timor-Leste’s neighbours, such as Indonesia and the Phil-ippines. The practice of dynamite fi shing never caught on because explosives were so tightly controlled during the Indonesian occupation.

The sea life is as plentiful as it is diverse, from nudibranchs to turtles to schooling trevally. Scientists travel halfway around the world to see one or two of the species of fi sh or sponge that are so plentiful in Timor-Leste. Large-scale commercial fi shing has not started around any of the dive sites, and supplies are currently in equilibrium with what the locals eat and sell to foreigners in Dili’s restaurants.

This perfect mix treats divers to a colour-ful array of hard and soft corals as well as a vivid assortment of reef fi sh. Pelagics (open-water species such as tuna, bonito and mackerel) are regularly encountered, along with harmless reef sharks, manta rays, dol-phins and dugongs. The coral reef runs close to the shore along much of the north coast, and divers have only to wade in and swim a few strokes to reach spectacular drop-off s.

The Coral Triangle Timor-Leste lies in the southwest corner of the pristine Coral Triangle, which also in-cludes the tropical marine waters of Indo-nesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands. Scientists believe that each eco-region contains at least 500 species of reef-building corals. The Tri-angle encompasses portions of two biogeo-graphic regions: the Indonesian–Philippines Region (where Timor-Leste lies) and the Far Southwestern Pacifi c Region. The Coral Tri-angle is recognised as the global epicentre of marine biodiversity and has the highest coral diversity in the world, with 76% of the world’s 805 coral species found there. Moreover, 37% of the world’s coral-reef fi sh can also be found in the Triangle, which is the highest diversity of coral-reef fi sh in the world.

Accessible Diving & Dive Safaris Timor-Leste’s diving is not only spectacular but also very accessible. The bulk of the reg-ularly visited dive sites are located either in

RESPONSIBLE DIVING Please consider the following tips when diving, and help preserve the ecology and beauty of Timor-Leste’s largely untouched reefs;

» Avoid touching or standing on living marine organisms or dragging equipment across the reef.

» Be conscious of your fins. Even without contact, the surge from fin strokes near the reef can damage delicate organisms. Take care not to kick up clouds of sand, which can smother organisms.

» Practise and maintain proper buoyancy control. Major damage can be done by divers descending too fast and colliding with the reef.

» Resist the temptation to collect or buy coral or shells, or to loot marine archaeo-logical sites.

» Ensure that you take home all your rubbish and any litter you may find as well. Plastics in particular are a serious threat to marine life.

» Do not feed fish.

» Minimise your disturbance of marine animals. Never ride on the backs of turtles. Responsible diving also means safe diving. Those planning in diving in East Timor must ensure that have adequate insurance coverage, and should consider bespoke coverage such as DAN insurance (www.diversalertnetwork.org).

The dive operators in East Timor are not only highly experienced divers, but also have been diving in East Timor for over a decade. They know the sites extremely well and the hazards associated with them, such as strong currents. If you are planning to dive independently, it is worth diving the site fi rst with one of the local operators to familiarise yourself fi rst before going it alone.

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PLAN YO

UR TRIP DIV

ING

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ELLING

Dili or near Maubara in the west. The drive out to the sites to the east of Dili is part of the adventure, as you rise above the sea be-fore descending to the dive sites. All of these sites can be accessed from the shore. Drive up to the beach, unload in the shade, gear up and walk into the water. Within minutes, schools of fi sh, colourful corals, marine crit-ters and dugongs surround you. The diving is not deep either, so more time is spent seeing marine activity rather than decompressing.

Boat dives can access the sites in and around Dili, in addition to the underwater paradise of Atauro Island. If you can get a group of six or eight divers together, these boat dives are similarly priced to those from the shore.

Further along the east coast, the Dili dive operators can arrange dive safaris to sites around Com, Tutuala and Jaco Island. This can be done by vehicle or boat, or you can go by car and meet the boat there. The expense increases for these trips, but the dive sites are well worth the eff ort for their rich coral and sea life.

Those who want to learn to dive in East Timor will fi nd a full suite of PADI courses on off er in Dili. Courses start at US$255 and include dives at some of the country’s best sites. Discuss your requirements with the dive operators who will be able to put together a package that will cater for your needs and budget.

Easy Snorkelling Everyone who comes to Timor-Leste should go snorkelling, and a mask and snorkel is ev-ery season’s must-have accessory. It is always good to bring your own mask and snorkel with you. Although the dive operators can supply them, a well-fi tting mask is essential and it also means you can go snorkelling at any time.

There are two ways you are going to be able to go snorkelling: either under your own steam or with one of the dive opera-tors. Going independent is easy, particu-larly if you have a vehicle. As the reef hugs the north coast, pulling over on one of the deserted beaches for a look can prove to be an underwater paradise. There is also good snorkelling to be had at the existing dive sites. Ask around where you are stay-ing, as most people are happy to share their favourite spots with you. Just like with div-ing, keep your buddy close and be careful of currents.

One of the great things about diving in Timor-Leste is that with the prevalence of shore diving, your nondiving family and friends can join you snorkelling. All the dive operators are comfortable taking nondivers on the trips to the dive sites for a reduced fee. Snorkellers can still have an amazing ex-perience, as a lot of the coral and marine life is also accessible to them.

DILI DIVE OPERATORS There are three dive operators in Dili. All have excellent safety records, and are run by friendly people who have experience in running courses and diving in Timor-Leste. Do your research and contact them for what you are after. They will be able to tailor any trip, down to requests to see certain species of fi sh.

Compass Charters (Map p38; %723 0966; info@compassadventurtours.com; Av dos Mártires de Pátria) Next to Tiger Fuel.

Dive Timor Lorosae (Map p42; %723 7092; www.divetimor.com; Av de Portugal)

Free Flow (Map p42; %723 4614; www.freefl owdiving.blogspot.com; Av de Portugal)

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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Rodney Cocks As a boy growing up in Melbourne, Rodney saw ‘Free East Timor’ graffi tied on a railway bridge and wondered what it was all about. Nearly 20 years later he arrived in a liberated country just after independence in 2002, as an Australian Army Offi cer in the UN Peacekeeping Force. Rodney later helped raise funds and implement several charitable projects in some of the poorer districts. Research-ing this book again confi rmed the advice he gives to all people travelling to East

Timor: get out of Dili and explore! He has been to one-quarter of the countries in the world and East Timor remains one of his favourites. He has also worked on Lonely Planet titles Afghanistan and Pakistan & the Karakorum Highway.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – July 2011ISBN 978 1 74179 165 5© Lonely Planet 2010 Photographs © as indicated 201010 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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