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The view of central Auckland from Mt Eden. Opposite (clockwise from top left): Mimi Gilmour,

Everybody’s Bar & Bistro; Mexico’s funky fare; white sand beaches on Waiheke Island; hot new

restaurant Roxy; cellar door at Passage Rock.

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Auckland

New Zealand’s largest city has come into its own as a foodie destination, thanks to a new generation of dynamic chefs and restaurateurs, including this month’s Locavore Mimi Gilmour.

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1. Roxy chef Sean Marshall. 2. Roxy’s hapuka with corn and confit chicken wing. 3. Sleek The Grill by Sean Connolly. 4. Elegance at Merediths. 5. The grand dining room at Everybody’s Bar & Bistro.

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UUntil New Zealand won the hosting rights for the 2011 Rugby World Cup, Auckland had long played second fiddle to the capital, Wellington. The build-up to that event saw a flurry of restoration and development around the country, and its largest city became the focus for a new generation of creative entrepreneurs, such as the Hip Group and Pack & Company, who continue to forge ahead with projects in the CBD and further afield. The run-down inner-city precinct of Britomart has been polished until it gleams, and now bristles with an ever-expanding assortment of cool cafes, restaurants, bars and fashion boutiques. Art Gallery Toi o Tamaki (the largest in New Zealand) emerged, renovated, in 2011, with a contemporary extension of soaring, umbrella-like wooden ceilings and walls of glass. Two years on, there’s still a palpable sense of energy and creativity, and nowhere more so than in Auckland’s food scene.

Mimi Gilmour of The Britomart Hospitality Company epitomises the dynamism driving the changes here. She’s the daughter of Emerald Gilmour, the city’s “first queen of hospitality”. In the 1970s and 1980s, Emerald owned

the modish restaurant Clichy, which morphed into Tatler & Spectator bar in the 1990s and now houses the first branch of Mimi’s Mexico restaurant franchise. Mimi commutes between Auckland and Sydney, where she and her husband, acclaimed New Zealand expat chef Warren Turnbull, run the first Australian outpost of Mexico (formerly District Dining) and have just transformed their formerly hatted Assiette into Albion St Kitchen and Chur Burger, all in Surry Hills.

Mimi trained under and worked with many of the current movers and shakers on Auckland’s dining scene, and was the Creative Director of Taste at the Cloud, the New Zealand food and drink show on Queens Wharf, during the Rugby World Cup. In Sydney, she worked with Luke Mangan on the Appetite for Excellence awards and with the Taste of Sydney festival for a couple of years, too. And she’s only 28 years old. “I’m a workaholic,” she admits, laughing. But, despite her keen eye for the Next Big Thing and enough energy to run Auckland’s electricity grid, Mimi’s tastes remain firmly grounded in tradition – among her favourite food haunts are those she’s frequented since she was a child.

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FINE DININGFor a special occasion, Antoine’s (333 Parnell Rd, Parnell, antoinesrestaurant.co.nz) still makes the cut. It’s been running for 40-odd years, has nurtured the likes of chefs Michael Meredith of fine-diner Merediths (see below), and is still taking out local gongs – it won Cuisine magazine’s 2012 Lifetime Achievement Award. Owner Tony Astle is an Auckland legend. “I’ve known Tony all my life through my mother’s involvement in the industry,” says Mimi. “Antoine’s is hilariously old school – it still doesn’t take eftpos – but it’s just beautiful, classic French food with impeccable service.”

Multi-award-winning Sid Sahrawat worked at The Grove (see below) before opening his own 35-seater restaurant, Sidart (Three Lamps Plaza, 283 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby, sidart.co.nz), three years ago. “Sid does a ‘test kitchen’ menu on Tuesday nights,” says Mimi. “You get to try out new dishes that they’re developing for about $80 for eight courses.”

Elsewhere, it’s worth the taxi ride to Merediths (365 Dominion Rd, Mt Eden, merediths.co.nz) just to experience the subtle genius of chef Michael’s cooking, which won him Metro magazine’s Best Chef award of 2012. The degustation-only menu hints occasionally at Michael’s Samoan heritage (his signature dessert of ‘banana custard’ with tapioca pearls, cashew, pineapple puree and caramel sauce infused with coriander, for instance). Ask for a table in the middle room of three pared-back dining spaces so you can watch Michael and his team working at the pass – it’s a tableau of calm creativity.

Centrally located and with a more traditional feel, The Grove (St Patrick’s Square, Wyndham St, Auckland, thegrove restaurant.co.nz) offers a much-lauded wine list, quaint glassware and sophisticated menu by Benjamin Bayley. Interesting matches include a glass of Pineau des Charentes paired with a teapot of broth poured over a ‘lollipop’ of quail, with smoked eschalots, ‘faux foie gras’ and golden raisins.

For a smoochier night on the town, Clooney (33 Sale St, Freemans Bay, clooney.co.nz) is all curvy banquettes and black fringe curtains. But it’s not just a pretty face; the restaurant, presided over by manager Tony Stewart and chef Desmond Harris, offers some seriously good food – think coconut ice-cream served with battered smoked eel, kingfish and avocado – and a smart wine list.

Other splurge options on the itinerary should include The Grill by Sean Connolly at SkyCity Grand (90 Federal St,

“The city’s palpable energy and creativity is nowhere more present than in its food.”

1. Take your pick from the chalkboard menu at smart-casual Ponsonby Road Bistro. 2. The dining room at Med-inspired Coco’s Cantina. 3. Jewish delis inspired popular Dizengoff. 4. Damaris Coulter, one of the two sparky sisters behind welcoming Coco’s Cantina.1

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Auckland, skycity.co.nz/restaurants), which, within a year of opening, took out both Cuisine’s prestigious 2012 Restaurant of the Year and Best New Restaurant awards. It’s reminiscent of Neil Perry’s Rockpool Bar & Grill – glam dining room, fabulous steak tartare and slick service. ‘Grilled for Time’ is a quick-smart lunchtime or early dinner menu (5.30pm–6.30pm) at $35 for two courses and $45 for three.

Runner-up for Cuisine magazine’s 2012 Best New Restaurant was Roxy (7 Fort Ln, Auckland, roxy.co.nz). It’s part of a cool new development that also features Imperial Lane (theimperiallane.co.nz), a warehouse-cum-laneway cafe and bar, and Everybody’s Bar & Bistro (everybodys.co.nz), ensconced in two restored, heritage-listed theatres. Roxy’s stunning mezzanine space marries inner-city smarts with a refined menu by chef Sean Marshall, formerly of Wellington’s acclaimed Matterhorn restaurant.

CASUAL DININGMimi often heads to Auckland’s Italian stalwart, Prego (226 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby, prego.co.nz), a casual, no-bookings bistro that’s been pumping out pizza, pasta and

other Italian classics for more than 20 years. “It’s the best. I love that so many dishes have been on the menu forever.”

Just along the road at number 256 is another of Mimi’s all-time favourites, Dizengoff, a modern, clean-lined take on a Jewish deli. “I go there every morning for coffee – it’s a real local haunt. The mushrooms are delicious and they do a fantastic minced chicken salad.”

Further down at number 165, super-cool but super-welcoming Ponsonby Road

Bistro (ponsonbyroadbistro.co.nz) is run by Mimi’s former colleague, Blair Russell, and Melissa Morrow. “Melissa’s the best maitre d’ in Auckland, and her partner, Sarah Conway, is the chef here.” Accompanying the excellent wine list is an

“ At Prego, I love that so many dishes have been on the menu forever.”

1. Shopping and dining precinct Britomart. 2. City cafe The Grassy Knoll. 3. & 4. Chef Al Brown’s Depot Eatery and Oyster Bar’s cool canteen-style. 5. Depot Eatery’s squid ink linguine and Cloudy Bay clams.

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eclectic, seasonal menu focusing on boutique, locally sourced ingredients, such as charcuterie from Otello’s in Browns Bay.

At 376-378 K’ Road (the locals’ name for Karangahape Rd), quirky and colourful Coco’s Cantina (cocoscantina.co.nz) also keeps it in the family. Here, sisters Renee and Damaris Coulter pull in a young, funky crowd with their Mediterranean-style fare. “Coco’s makes you feel good,” says Mimi. “It’s like you’ve been hugged.” There are no bookings, but new Coco’s Barretta bar next door eases the overflow.

In the city, proceed directly to recent Wellington escapee and celebrity chef-and-restaurateur Al Brown’s Depot Eatery and Oyster Bar (86 Federal St, Auckland, eatatdepot.co.nz). His latest venture is a bustling, casual, ultra-hospitable joint that combines a fantastic raw seafood bar, woodfired oven specials and must-order sliders. There’s a selection of three classy NZ wines on tap, including an organic pinot noir from Central Otago by Duncan Forsyth – we kid you not. Al’s opening a new (and yet to be revealed) Auckland venue in May.

The Grassy Knoll (21 Shortland St, Auckland, thegrassyknoll. co.nz) is one of Mimi’s essential weekday city cafe stops. “It’s small and it’s central, but it still gets the sun. It also does great coffee and delicious, simple food. They hot-smoke their own salmon and serve it with perfect scrambled eggs.”

Down near the harbour, Mimi and Warren’s brash and buzzy Mexico (23 Britomart Place, Britomart, mexico.net.nz) is adding Frida Kahlo-esque colour to the city’s food scene. Waitresses wear huge fake flowers in their hair, the music’s loud, the margaritas flow and a menu of crunchy, spicy, moreish mod-Mex snacks is spot-on for soaking up the spirits.

Around the corner, Shaky Isles (22 Customs St East, Britomart, shakyisles.co.nz) exemplifies the individualistic, creative vibe of this rejuvenated precinct. Housed in a high-ceilinged, semi-industrial space, this daytime spot offers killer coffee by Kiwi roaster Caffe L’Affare and pulled by barista extraordinaire Rob Rivers. Don’t miss great renditions of classic New Zealand baked goods, such as Afghan biscuits.

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MIMI’S lOcAl SEcRETS + Barilla dumpling and Kung Fu noodle (571 and 636 dominion rd, Balmoral) are Mimi’s choices for weeknight dinners or catching up with girlfriends. the spicy green beans and dumplings at Barilla are fantastic; at Kung Fu, watch them stretch the noodles.+ Everything at Ripe deli (172 richmond rd, grey Lynn, ripedeli.co.nz) is made fresh everyday in the open kitchen and the display cabinet is full of great, healthy salads. their savoury brioche is Mimi’s pick. they sell out in the morning, so arrive early. + Eating one of the amazing free-range chicken rolls – cos lettuce, chicken and house-made tarragon mayo – at Bird on a Wire (234 ponsonby rd, ponsonby, birdonawire.co.nz) is “like a trip back to my childhood”, says Mimi. + there are three branches of south Indian restaurant Satya (271 K’ road, ponsonby, satya.co.nz), but this is Mimi’s local for the legendary dahi puri, mini pappadams with tomato, tamarind chutney and yoghurt. “the place is nothing fancy, but it’s the best Indian I’ve had in auckland or sydney.”

1. & 3. Mexico’s fresh take on traditional fare includes soft shell tacos served in a fun space crammed with Day of the Dead motifs. 2. High ceilings and industrial vibes at coffee joint Shaky Isles.

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1. Wind down fireside inside boutique Hotel DeBrett’s glass-roof atrium. 2. Britomart’s Saturday morning City Farmers’ Market. 3. Retro cool drives the look inside Hotel DeBrett’s designer rooms. 4. Overlooking Auckland CBD and its lush surrounds.

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Gird your shopping loins there before you hit the retail nirvana of Britomart, which runs the gamut of high-end New Zealand designers, including Trelise Cooper, World, Karen Walker and Zambesi, as well as international brands such as Ted Baker, Seletti and Onitsuka Tiger. Britomart’s pocket-sized Saturday morning City Farmers’ Market has a growing array of produce, bread and preserves that varies with the season.

Or head to the French-style farmers’ market at La Cigale (69 St Georges Rd, lacigale.co.nz) in Parnell, where Mimi’s mother, Emerald, now runs the venue’s bistro. “This is what a real market should be – the fruit and vegies are really cheap, and so is the French wine selection!” Among the stalls, you’ll find award-winning free-range duck parfaits from Genevieve’s Cuisine, River Estate’s sumptuous olive oils and Clevedon Valley Buffalo Company’s cheeses. Plus, all manner of game and smoked fish, as well as flaky pastries and NZ’s ubiquitous oyster fritters to eat as you browse.

Over on the north side in Takapuna, there’s more evidence of Auckland’s joie de vivre. The Hip Group, namely Jackie Grant and Scott Brown, are the masterminds behind Takapuna

Beach Cafe and Store (22 The Promenade, takapunabeachcafe.co.nz), a breezy beachfront venue that’s packed to the rafters every weekend. And rightly so – the simple, fresh menu is great for casual breakfasts and lunches, and the prize-winning house-made gelati are heaven. Grab a lobster-shaped buzzer (yes, really) and hit the beach while you wait for your table. Jackie and Scott also run the Richmond Road Cafe in Grey Lynn, Rosehip in Parnell, Cafe on Kohi in Kohimarama, back in Britomart, Ortolana, a conservatory-style Italian eatery and Milse, a dessert-only restaurant-wine bar, plus bakery. They’ve also just opened St Heliers Bay Cafe & Bistro, east of the CBD.

Opposite a second branch of Mexico is The Commons (21 Hurstmere Rd, thecommons.co.nz), a multi-level space incorporating a funky indoor-outdoor mix of bar, restaurant and lounge. Executive chef is South African expat Nick Honeyman, formerly of three-Michelin-starred L’Arpège in Paris, and Cru and Dallow’s in Auckland, who balances smart ‘fast food’ dining options with an intriguing menu at the more formal Common Room. Also attached is Elske, a patisserie headed up by local baking hero Kristina Jensen.

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1. Britomart’s laneways by night. 2. Slow cooked organic chicken leg at new St Heliers Bay Cafe & Bistro. 3. Dusk over the harbour. 4. NZ label World’s flagship store at Britomart.

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A couple of blocks back from the beach, The Department Store (10 Northcroft St, thedepartmentofnews.com) has earned the accolade ‘best reason to buy a map of Takapuna’ for good reason. The collaboration of designer Karen Walker, uber-hairdresser Stephen Marr, and Dan Gosling of Stolen Girlfriends Club label, this must be Auckland’s most chic spot to shop. Fossick through designer threads and homewares or New Zealand’s first outpost of Topshop, then pick up coffee and a perfect baguette at La Boulange. Or splash out on a ‘do’ at Marr’s salon and a primp at Lucy and the Powder Room.

WhErE to StAyWhile 25-room Hotel DeBrett (2 High St, Auckland, hoteldebrett.com; from $240 per night including breakfast) has been operating in its current form since 2009, it still feels spanking fresh. Close to Britomart, it spans almost a block along one of the most interesting retail strips in the CBD. Its many attractions include staff that combine cool with warm hospitality, New Zealand photographer Alistair Guthrie’s landscapes, vivid striped carpets, revamped vintage furniture and brilliant soundproofing against the night-time bustle. The hotel also offers a number of grazing, sipping and dining options. Cornerbar, straddling High and Shortland

streets, is a casual daytime vantage point for locals and guests alike. Upstairs, Housebar, with its adjacent guests-only drawing room, has a more clubby feel and adjoins the airy, light-filled atrium space of Kitchen Restaurant. Here, executive chef Alan Micks pulls in a regular flow of locals and hotel guests with his accomplished, produce-driven menu. His lunchtime take on the bento box, the ‘Square Meal’, has also proved a winner with time-strapped city workers. Three courses are served together on a tray, accompanied by a glass of Cloudy Bay pinot noir, sauvignon blanc or sparkling NV Pelorus, all for a paltry $28.

The L-shaped configuration of The Sebel Suites (85-89 Customs St West, Auckland, mirvachotels.com/sebel-suites-auckland; from $160 per night including breakfast), on the waterfront at Viaduct Harbour, means that many of the large, well-appointed suites look out over the water and the bustle of the precinct below. It’s a five-minute stroll to Britomart and the ferry terminal for day trips or tours. This would be ideal as a self-catering family base – with the terrific Auckland fish markets just along the way.

For a more old-school B&B experience (in the nicest possible way), particularly for those touring by car, Peace and Plenty Inn (6 Flagstaff Terrace, peaceandplenty.co.nz; from $195 per night including breakfast) is on the north side about 20 minutes from the CBD in the pretty village of Devonport. Owner Judith Machin offers English-style hospitality (and a nice line of afternoon teas) at this waterfront Victorian villa.

“ Hit the beach while you wait for your table at Takapuna Beach Cafe and Store.”

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SIDE trIp A 40-minute ferry ride from the CBD, Waiheke Island is Auckland’s weekend playground. Newest kid on the block is The Oyster Inn (124 Ocean View Rd, Oneroa, theoysterinn.co.nz; from $230 per night). Combining bar, all-day restaurant, chi-chi shop and three beautifully appointed guest rooms, it delivers seaside chic in the little township of Oneroa. Chef Christian Hossack has returned from London’s Providores restaurant to offer a modern, unpretentious menu with an emphasis on provenance.

The Boatshed (cnr Tawa and Huia sts, Little Oneroa, boatshed.co.nz; from $520 per night including breakfast) is a dream of a place. Welcoming owner Jonathan Scott has created a rambling, stylish sanctuary. Lovely views over Little Oneroa Beach, serene spaces filled with curiosities and artworks, an expansive vegetable garden and a soul-nourishing dinner menu by chef Tibor Matus all add up to a flawless package.

Of the many wineries that dot the gloriously rugged, rolling landscape, Mimi Gilmour’s picks include historic, much-lauded Man O’ War Vineyards (manowarvineyards.co.nz) and Passage Rock (438 Orapiu Rd, passagerockwines.co.nz). “It’s a nice day

trip. Passage Rock has a cafe with a pizza oven.” Or, for a classic Italian long lunch, head to Poderi Crisci (205 Awaawaroa Rd, podericrisci.co.nz) for its set menu. “The sparkling rosé and

chardonnay are superb.”Elsewhere, Te Whau Vineyard

(218 Te Whau Dr, tewhau.co.nz) delivers prize-winning wines and good food from a magnificent modern eyrie. At Cable Bay Vineyard Restaurant (12 Nick Johnstone Dr, cablebayvineyards.co.nz), panoramic views, sweeping lawns and contemporary sculptures form the backdrop to its slick, modern cellar door and restaurant.

Among the many boutique olive plantations on NZ’s North Island, Rangihoua Estate (1 Gordons Rd, Rocky Bay, rangihoua.co.nz) was the first. Tastings and tours of the pressing room are worth the detour. And, while it may not be open to the public, the groves of No 29 (number29.co.nz), on the western side of the island at Church Bay, are producing superlative oil that’s being served at many of the city’s top restaurants, including Merediths (see p 141). d.Thanks to Tourism New Zealand (visit: newzealand.com).

“ Waiheke Island is Auckland’s weekend playground.”

1. The scenic ferry ride from Auckland CBD to Waiheke Island. 2. Among the vines at Passage Rock. 3. Relax in the communal Long Room at The Boatshed 4. Coastal cool at The Oyster Inn’s gift shop, restaurant and guest rooms.

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