Blue Ice BLM Nymph (A Tim Heng BLM Adaptation)

By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 3769Size: 14~18 Thread: Light Blue 6/0 UNI-ThreadTail: Dark Blue Angel HairAbdomen: Dark Blue Angel HairRib: Gun Metal Blue X-Small Ultra-WireThorax: Black BeadShellback & Legs: Dark Blue Angel HairHead: Tying ThreadOptional: Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Note:Flyfisherman Magazine awarded the original BLM as the 2002 fly of the year.

Step Tying Instructions1 Slide the bead onto the hook shank.2 Start the thread behind the bead at the 1/3 hook shank point.3 Tie in the rib wire and several full length strands of angel hair for the tail and

abdomen. Tail length equals hook shank length.4 Overwrap to above the hook barb and move the thread to behind the bead.5 Slide the bead to behind the hook eye.6 Wrap the Angel Hair from the 1/3 hooks shank point to above the hook barb and wrap

back to the 1/3 hook shank point and tie in. DO NOT cut off excess. 7 Counter wrap the rib wire making 5~7 “ribs” to the 1/3 hook shank point.

Tie in and cut off excess.8 Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps and cut off the thread.9 Force the bead onto the tie off area.

10 Start the thread in front of the bead.11 Pull the excess abdomen Angel Hair over the bead and tie in, in front of the bead.12 Divide the angel hair evenly and fold back for the legs.13 Wrap and whip-finish a medium sized head.14 Optional: Apply HAH to the whip-finish, abdomen and “shellback” for durability.

Blue Magic Dredgemerger V1By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 2487Size: 16 ~ 24Thread: Gray 14/0 Gordon GriffithAbdomen: Blue, UTC Ultra WireWing Bud: White Float VisThorax: UV Gray Ice DubHead: Silver Brite Bead or Tungsten BeadOther: Zap-A-Gap CA+ Super Glue and

Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Step Tying Instructions1 Slide the bead onto hook the shank. 2 Start the thread behind the bead and tie in the abdomen wire.3 Apply a thin coat of super glue to the hook shank.4 Wrap the abdomen wire to partway down the hook bend.

Break the wire on the underneath side of the hook shank.5 Optional: Apply Hah to the abdomen for durability.6 Tie in the wing bud material behind the bead.7 Fold the wing bud material forward forming a loop and tie in with 2 thread wraps.

Insert your bodkin into the wing bud loop and pull the loose end until you have a loop that is even with the hook barb. Tie in and cut off excess.

8 Dub a thorax slightly larger than the bead.9 Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps.

Blue Dredgemerger V2By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 2487 or TMC 2457Size: 16~22Thread: Gray 14/0 Gordon GriffithsAbdomen: Blue, UTC Ultra WireWing Bud: Gray Sparkle Emerger YarnThorax: UV Gray Ice DubHead: Black Tungsten or Cyclops Bead Super Glue: Zap-A-Gap CA+

Step Tying Instructions1 Slide the bead onto hook the shank. 2 Start the thread behind the bead and tie in the abdomen wire3 Apply a thin coat of super glue to the hook shank.4 Wrap the abdomen wire to partway down the hook bend.

Break the wire on the underneath side of the hook shank.5 Use a bodkin to spread super glue over the wire abdomen.

Use a paper towel to wick away excess super glue from the abdomen.6 Tie in the wing bud material behind the bead.7 Fold the wing bud material forward forming a loop and tie in with 2 thread wraps.

Insert your bodkin into the wing bud loop and pull the loose end until you have a loop that is even with the hook barb. Tie in and cut off excess.

8 Dub a thorax the same width and slightly larger in diameter than the bead.9 Whip-finish using a minimum number of wraps so they disappear into the bead.

Brahma Blue Soft Hackle By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 2488Size: 12~20Tying Thread: Black Gordon Griffiths 14/0Abdomen: Bright Navy Blue #942-1242

Sulky® 40 Machine Embroidery Thread Thorax: UV Gray Ice DubHackle: Mottled Gray Whiting Brahma Hen SaddleHead: Tying ThreadOther: Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Tyers Notes:Note 1: I step tie steps 1 thru 4 for all the flies that I am tying for the session.Note 2: I prepare the hackle in advance of the tying session as follows;

2a With the shiny side of the feather facing the tyer and the tip toward the hook eye, strip off the “top” side barbules.

2b Excluding appx 1/4” of the tip stroke the “bottom” barbules perpendicular to the quill.2c Determine how long you want the soft hackle fibers, appx 1 1/2 times the hook gape. 2d Then strip off all of the barbules toward the thick end of the quill.2e Cut off the tip leaving appx 1/32”, this is used to tie in the hackle.

Step Tying Instructions1 Start the abdomen thread 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.2 Wrap to partway down the hook bend and return to the 1/3 hook shank point. 3 Whip-finish with 3 wraps and cut off the thread.4 Coat the abdomen with H-a-H and let dry. See Tyers Note 1. 5 Start the tying thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.6 Dub a thorax from the 1/3 hook point to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.7 Tie in the prepared hackle by the tip with the shiny side forward and the barbules

towards the hook bend, make 2~3 wraps. Tie in and cut off the excess. See Tyers Note 2.

8 Wrap and whip-finish a small head.

Black & Blue DredgerBy: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 2457Size: 6~18Thread: Black UTC 70Tail: Mottled Grey Brahma Hen Saddle BarbulesAbdomen: Black & Blue Ultra WireWingcase: Black Thin Skin & Knot SenseThorax: Black UV Ice DubLegs: Picked Out Thorax Dubbing Head: Black Bead (Sized to Hook)Other: Zap-A-Gap CA+ Super Glue, 5 Minute Epoxy

and Optional Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Tyers Notes:This pattern is a good candidate for step tying.

1. The wire tied in on the tyers side of the hook shank will be the end wrap at the rear of the abdomen.

2. Optional, Apply HaH to the abdomen for durability. Set aside until all flies tied for this session are completed through Step 6.

3. “Thin” the fibers in the dubbing loop. Trim the fibers to appx 1/8” before wrapping. This eliminates the majority of “finish” trimming.

Step Tying Instructions1 Slide the bead onto the hook shank.2 Start the thread behind the bead. 3 Tie in the tail material and overwrap partway down the hook bend.

Tail length equals hook gape.4 Move the thread to behind the bead. Tie in the abdomen wires on top of the hook

shank and overwrap to the 1/3 hook shank point. See Tyers Note 1. 5 Coat the thread base with super glue.6 Wrap the abdomen wires together to partway down the hook bend and break off on

the underside of the hook shank. See Tyers Note 2.7 Tie in the wingcase Thin Skin with the “dull” side up.

Overwrap to the hook shank mid-point.8 Tie in a 2”~3” dubbing loop and apply the dubbing. Twist tight and wrap the thorax to

behind the bead. Stroke the dubbing fibers to the rear as you wrap forward. See Tyers Note 3.

9 Pull the wingcase Thin Skin forward. Tie in behind the bead and cut off excess.10 Use a small amount of dubbing and cover the thread wraps.11 Tie a whip-finish behind the bead using a minimum number of wraps.12 Apply a substantial drop of 5 minute epoxy to the wingcase.

Blue & Wine Dredger(An Umpqua/Sloan’s Mighty Mite Adaptation)By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 2457Size: 6~18Thread: Black UTC 70Tail: Mottled Grey Brahma Hen Saddle FibersAbdomen: Blue & Wine Ultra WireWingcase: Brown Thin Skin & Knot SenseThorax: Olive Brown UV Ice DubLegs: Picked Out Thorax Dubbing Head: Black Bead (Sized to Hook)Other: Zap-A-Gap CA+ Super Glue, 5 Minute Epoxy

and Optional Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement Note; This Blue & Wine Dredger pattern picture shows the abdomen covered with HaH per Step 6 option.

Tyers Notes:This pattern is a good candidate for step tying.

4. The wire tied in on the tyers side of the hook shank will be the end wrap at the rear of the abdomen.

5. Optional, Apply HaH to the abdomen for durability. Set aside until all flies tied for this session are completed through Step 6.

6. “Thin” the fibers in the dubbing loop. Trim the fibers to appx 1/8” before wrapping. This eliminates the majority of “finish” trimming.

Step Tying Instructions1 Slide the bead onto the hook shank.2 Start the thread behind the bead. 3 Tie in the tail material and overwrap partway down the hook bend.

Tail length equals hook gape.4 Move the thread to behind the bead. Tie in the abdomen wires on top of the hook

shank and overwrap to the 1/3 hook shank point. See Tyers Note 1. 5 Coat the thread base with super glue.6 Wrap the abdomen wires together to partway down the hook bend and break off on

the underside of the hook shank. See Tyers Note 2.7 Tie in the wingcase Thin Skin with the “dull” side up.

Overwrap to the hook shank mid-point.8 Tie in a 2”~3” dubbing loop and apply the dubbing. Twist tight and wrap the thorax to

behind the bead. Stroke the dubbing fibers to the rear as you wrap forward. See Tyers Note 3.

9 Pull the wingcase Thin Skin forward. Tie in behind the bead and cut off excess.10 Use a small amount of dubbing and cover the thread wraps.11 Tie a whip-finish behind the bead using a minimum number of wraps.12 Apply a substantial drop of 5 minute epoxy to the wingcase.

Blue Flexx Midge EmergerBy: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 2487 Size: 16~22Thread: Black 14/0 Gordon GriffithsAbdomen: Blue UNI-Flexx or Flex-Floss™Wing: White Electronics Packing FoamThorax: Black Superfine DubbingHead: Tying Thread

Step Tying Instructions1 Start the thread behind the hook eye.2 Tie in 1 strand of flex-floss for the abdomen and wrap to partway down the hook bend

and back to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Tie in and cut off excess.Tyers Note: Stretch and relax the tension of the flexi-floss as you wrap to create a tapered abdomen.

3 Tie in a 1” piece of wing material behind the hook eye and fold to the rear creating a double wing. Center the wing material on the thread and the top of the hook shank when tying in the wing and overwrap to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.Tyers Note: Wing length and width equals the hook gape.

4 Dub a thick thorax from the wing tie in point to behind the hook eye.5 Whip-finish with a minimum number of wraps.6 Optional: Apply water based head cement to the whip-finish.

Frigid MidgeBy: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 200R Size: 16~22Tying Thread: White 14/0 Gordon GriffithsAbdomen: Blue Holographic Tinsel Thorax: Blue Rabbit Dubbing and

Dyed Blue Peacock Herl or Black Mini Ostrich Herl Head: Tying Thread Marker: Blue Sharpie Marking PenAdhesive: Super GlueOptional; Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Note:This pattern works best in the late fall, winter and early spring.

Step Tying Instructions1 Start the thread behind the hook eye.2 Tie in the abdomen material (1 strand) and overwrap to above the hook barb.3 Return the thread to 1 eye length behind the hook eye. Apply Super Glue to the thread

wraps.4 Wrap the abdomen material to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.

Tie in and cut off excess.5 Move the thread to the 1/3 hook shank point and tie in 1 peacock herl.6 Dub a thorax from the 1/3 hook shank point to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.7 Palmer-wrap (using close wraps) the peacock herl to 1 eye length behind the hook

eye. Tie in and cut off excess.8 Wrap and whip-finish a small head and color the thread with the blue marking pen. 9 Optional: Apply HaH to the abdomen for durability.

Blue Holo-MidgeBy: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 200R or Dai-Riki 270Size: 18~24Thread: Black 14/0 Gordon GriffithsAbdomen: Blue Holographic Tinsel

Medium For Sizes 18~22, Small For Size 24Thorax & Head: Tying ThreadAdhesive: Super GlueOptional; Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Step Tying Instructions 1 Start the thread behind the hook eye.2 Tie in the abdomen material (1 strand) and overwrap to above the hook barb.3 Return the thread to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.

Apply Super Glue to the thread wraps.4 Wrap the abdomen material to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.

Tie in and cut off excess.5 Use the tying thread to wrap and whip-finish a thorax and head.

Note: The thorax should be approximately 1½ to 2 times the diameter of the abdomen.6 Optional: Apply 2 coats of HaH to the complete fly or durability.

Indigo Holo-MidgeBy: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 200R or Dai-Riki 270Size: 18~24Thread: Black 14/0 Gordon GriffithsAbdomen: Blue Holographic Tinsel

Medium For Sizes 18 ~ 22, Small For Size 24Thorax & Head: Tying ThreadAdhesive: Super GlueOptional; Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Step Tying Instructions 1 Start the thread behind the hook eye.2 Tie in the abdomen material (1 strand) and overwrap to above the hook barb.3 Return the thread to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.

Apply Super Glue to the thread wraps.4 Wrap the abdomen material to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.

Tie in and cut off excess.5 Use the tying thread to wrap and whip-finish a thorax and head.

Note: The thorax should be approximately 1½ to 2 times the diameter of the abdomen.6 Optional: Apply 2 coats of HaH to the complete fly or durability.

RFV Trout Crack V1 By: Larry O JurgensSource: Hook: TMC 2457 or TMC 2487Size: 16 ~ 22Thread: Light Blue 6/0 Danville Thread Underbody: UV Gray Ice DubOverbody: Blue Standard or Midge TubingRib: Tying Thread Head: Tying Thread

Notes:An adaptation of John Wilson's “Trout Crack” pattern.

Step Tying Instructions1 Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap a thread base partway down the hook

bend.2 Tie in the overbody tubing. You should have at least 1/2” extending in front of the

hook eye and beyond the hook bend.3 Dub an underbody to 1 eye length behind the hook eye and return.4 Move the thread to where you want the segment closest to the hook bend location.5 Pull the overbody tubing forward and tie in.

DO NOT stretch the tubing, e.g., The tubing should have a bubble effect.6 Repeat step 5 until you reach 1 eye length behind the hook eye.7 Wrap and whip finish a small neat head under the tubing.8 Cut the front tubing even with the front of the hook eye.9 Cut the rear tubing appx 1/16” behind the tie in point.

RFV UV Special V1By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 200R or Dai-Riki 270 Size: 18 ~ 24Tying Thread: Gray 14/0 Gordon Griffiths Abdomen: #942-1535 (Team Blue)

Sulky® 40wt Embroidery ThreadRib: #142-7011 (Light Copper)

Sulky® Metallic Thread Thorax: UV Gray Ice DubHead: Tying ThreadOptional: Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Step Tying Instructions1 Start the abdomen thread at the 1/3 hook shank point.2 Tie in the rib thread and overwrap partway down the hook shank.3 Return the abdomen thread to the 1/3 hook shank point, Whip-finish using 3 wraps.

Cut off the thread.4 Start the tying thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the 1/3 hook shank point.5 Spiral-wrap or counter-wrap the rib thread, making 4~6 “ribs”.

Tie in with the tying thread and cut off the rib thread.Optional: Apply 2 coats of HaH to the abdomen for durability.

6 Dub the thorax from the 1/3 hook shank point to behind the hook eye.7 Wrap a small, neat head and whip-finish.8 Optional: Apply HaH to the whip-finish.

Richard’s Blue Funk V1Tied By: Larry O JurgensSource: Richard SierzantHook: TMC 2487 / TMC 2457Size: 18 ~ 24Thread: Gray 14/0 Gordon GriffithsAbdomen: Blue Small/Extra Small Ultra WireWing: Clear White Sparkle Emerger YarnThorax: Gray UV Ice DubHead: Tying Thread

Step Tying Instructions1 Start the thread behind the hook eye and wrap a thread base to partway down the

hook bend and back to the 1/3 hook shank point.2 Tie in the abdomen wire at the 1/3 hook shank point.3 Apply a thin layer of super glue to the threadbase.4 Wrap the abdomen wire to partway down the hook bend and break off on the bottom

of the hook shank.5 Tie in a short wing at the 1/3 hook shank point.6 Dub a thick thorax from the wing tie in point to behind the hook eye.7 Wrap and whip-finish a small head.

Ryszard’s Special 9245-V1By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 2487 Size: 18 ~ 24Tying Thread: Black 14/0 Gordon Griffiths Abdomen: Royal Blue Metallic #9245

Gudebrod HT Rod Building ThreadThorax & Head: Tying ThreadOptional: Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Ryszard’s Special 9245-V2By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 2488H Size: 18~24Tying Thread: Black 14/0 Gordon Griffiths Abdomen: Royal Blue Metallic #9245

Gudebrod HT Rod Building ThreadThorax & Head: Tying ThreadOptional: Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Ryszard’s Special 9245-V3By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 200R or Dai-Riki 270 Size: 18 ~ 24Tying Thread: Black 14/0 Gordon Griffiths Abdomen: Royal Blue Metallic #9245

Gudebrod HT ThreadThorax & Head: Tying ThreadOptional: Hard as Hull (HaH) Head Cement

Notes:This pattern was developed as a searching pattern for those pesky, non-identifiable, itty-bitty bugs that are on the move. Surprisingly it seems to work well.

Step Tying Instructions1 Start the tying thread behind the hook eye.2 Tie in the abdomen material 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye. 3 Overwrap partway down the hook shank.4 Return the tying thread to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.

Wrap a smooth thread base.5 Wrap the abdomen material to 2 eye lengths behind the hook eye.

Tie in and cut off excess.6 Wrap a thick thorax and whip-finish.7 Optional: Apply HaH to the abdomen and thorax/head for durability.

The metallic thread abdomen WILL NOT darken.

Team Blue Searcher V1By: Larry O JurgensHook: TMC 2488/2488H Size: 18~24Tying Thread: Gray 14/0 Gordon Griffiths Abdomen: #942-1535 (Team Blue)

Sulky® 40wt Embroidery ThreadWingcase: Blue UTC Holo Tinsel Thorax: Charcoal Prism SLF DubbingHead: Tying ThreadOptional; Water Based Head Cement,

Hard as Hull Head Cement (HaH),UV Knot Sense or 5 Minute Epoxy

Step Tying Instructions1 Start the abdomen thread at the 1/3 hook shank point. Wrap to partway down the

hook bend and return. Whip-finish with 3 wraps and cut off the thread.Optional: Coat the abdomen with HaH for durability.

2 Start the tying thread behind the hook eye and wrap to the abdomen tie in point.3 Tie in the wingcase material and overwrap to the 1/2 hook shank point.4 Dub the thorax to 1 eye length behind the hook eye.5 Pull the wingcase material over the thorax and tie in. Cut off excess,6 Whip-finish a small neat head.7 Optional: Apply water based head cement to the whip-finish.8 Optional: Apply UV Knot Sense or 5 Minute Epoxy to the wingcase.