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Lizard Ridge Afghan

MATERIALS Version 1 Multicolored squares: Noro Kureyon - 1 skein/square (for 24 squares, 21 skeins will be enough with the remaining 3 squares made up of leftovers) Plied worsted weight yarn for seaming (such as Cascade 220) Version 2 Knit in one piece: Noro Kureyon color: #157, 20 skeins Both versions one skein of Cascade 220 for crocheted edging Version 1: 1 set US #8/5mm straight or circular needles Tapestry needle for seaming Version 2: 1 US #8 /5mm circular needle, the longer the better Both versions: 1 US #10/6mm needle for binding off Crochet hook for border

GAUGE 18 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch for substitution purposes (gauge is not critical. Whats important is to get a fabric

you like.) FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Approximate, not including edging. Version 1: 42 x 64 inches Version 2: 49x 68 inches ABBREVIATIONS k: knit p: purl

w&t: wrap and turn (see notes) ch: chain sl st: slip stitch sc: single crochet dc: double crochet

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PATTERN NOTES

To wrap and turn (w&t), hold the working yarn to the right side, slip the next stitch temporarily to the other needle, move the yarn back to the wrong side, and then slip the unworked stitch back to its original needle. Turn your work.

On rows 4 and 10, when purling back over the wrapped stitches, pick up and purl the wraps with the stitch by lifting the wrap from behind with the tip of the working needle, putting it on the other needle and then purling the two stitches together.

To pick up and knit the wraps on rows 5 and 11, insert the working needle into the wrap first, and then into the stitch to be knit, knitting the two together.

If youve been wanting to learn how to knit backwards, this might be a good time to do it. The

wrapping and turning on version 2 gets cumbersome once youve gotten some length.

The stitch pattern is a multiple of 14 stitches plus 1. You can adjust the number of repeats per row if you like. If you play with the number of repeats lengthwise, be sure to work the entire 12 rows of each repeat so the curves will balance out.

Rather than using one color of Kureyon for version 2, you could use different colors one after the other.

DIRECTIONS Version 1: Directions for square Cast on 43 stitches using e-wrap(single) cast on Purl one row Row 1 (RS): knit Row 2: purl Row 3: knit Row 4: p12, *w&t, k8, w&t, p7, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p20*, end last repeat p9 Row 5: knit, picking up and knitting the wraps as you meet them Row 6: purl Switch to the other end of the skein (optional you dont have to do this if you find it too fiddly, but your blocks wont have as much contrast) Row 7: knit Row 8: purl Row 9: knit Row 10: p5, w&t, k5, turn, p4, w&t, k4, turn, p19, *w&t, k8, w&t, p7, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p20*, end last repeat p16, then at end of row, turn, k5, w&t, p5, turn, k4, w&t, p4 Row 11: knit, picking up and knitting the wraps as you meet them Row 12: purl Switch back to the original end of the skein Repeat rows 1-12 four times total, then knit one row and bind off purlwise using larger needle. The squares will resemble an egg crate until blocked. For the dimensions given, knit 24 squares.

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Assembling

Steam block the squares before seaming. They will still be a little hilly, but much easier to seam. Use mattress stitch to seam the blocks together.

The completed afghan will be 6 squares long and 4 squares wide. Lay the blocks out to determine how you want to arrange them. When arranging panels, try to ensure that the wave pattern is matched both vertically and horizontally. The easiest way to assemble the afghan is to first sew the squares into four larger panels, then to sew those panels together; this way, you will not have long seams to sew with unwieldy lengths of yarn. For each quadrant of the afghan, sew two strips which are each three squares long, then sew those two strips together along their long edges. When all 4 of these panels are assembled, join the upper two panels, then the lower two panels, along their long edges. Finally, join the top and bottom halves of the afghan.

Version 2: Cast on 183 stitches using e-wrap (single) cast on Purl one row Row 1 (RS): knit Row 2: purl Row 3: knit Row 4: p12, *w&t, k8, w&t, p7, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p20*, end last repeat p9 Row 5: knit, picking up and knitting the wraps as you meet them Row 6: purl Row 7: knit Row 8: purl Row 9: knit Row 10: p5, w&t, k5, turn, p4, w&t, k4, turn, p19, *w&t, k8, w&t, p7, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p20*, end last repeat p16, then at end of row, turn, k5, w&t, p5, turn, k4, w&t, p4 Row 11: knit, picking up and knitting the wraps as you meet them Row 12: purl Repeat rows 1-12 24 times total, then knit one row and bind off purlwise using larger needle. CROCHETED SHELL EDGING

With RS of work facing, use sl st to attach CC to edge of afghan, approx. 0.5 inch from upper left corner. Work will proceed toward this corner before continuing around the perimeter of the afghan. It may be necessary to start this row a few different times to figure out the best spacing of stitches. You may prefer to practice on a swatch first.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 2 sc to corner, sc in corner; continue to work sc around edge of afghan, working an extra sc into each corner; sl st in 1st sc to join end of round.

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Round 2: *Skip 2 sc, work 9 dc in corner st, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, [skip 2 sc, 6 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc] to (approx.) 2 sc before next corner st*; repeat from * to * 3 times more, sl st in sl st at beginning of row.

(When approaching a corner stitch, it may be necessary to skip more or less than 2 stitches in order to work into the corner stitch. Count ahead.)

FINISHING In order to get your afghan to lie flat, you will need to wet block it. The easiest way to do this is to fill your washer with warm water and a no-rinse wool wash. Put the afghan in and let it soak about half an hour. Set your dial on the machine to spin the water out. Smooth the wet afghan out using your hands, measuring the sides and evening them up. Let it dry completely before moving. A fan is helpful!

Pattern support: email - LAylor13@gmail.com Ravelry shop - http://www.ravelry.com/designers/laura-aylor

2006 by Laura Aylor, all rights reserved