Her sketches are brilliant and visuals fantastical. Her silhouettes are unconventional and truly dramatic. She enjoys deconstructing the

have-beens and structuring newer outlines. Having recognised her creative side early on, she developed a knack for the off-beat. She made a startling start with experimental designing and went on to become India’s very own milliner. We caught up with Mumbai designer Shilpa Chavan of the accessories label ‘Little Shilpa’ during the Blenders Pride Fashion Tour that happened late last year. Excerpts from the conversation:

What fuelled your interest in designing? As a kid, I always knew I wanted to do something creative. In fact, I loved to stitch my own clothes. I’d have been an architect or an artist if not a designer. Though I studied fashion, I always knew I didn’t want to struggle in the industry, or do things to please others. So, I decided to do something that makes me happy.

What influences your design sensibilities? What inspires you? I love going back to the past for inspiration. Whether it was for my debut line of shirts, or a collection inspired by the streets of

in college. That’s how we started working together. After doing two collections, I assisted Hemant as a choreographer. Watching him do his thematic shows and headpieces was when I realised my true calling. Hemant, who gave me the opportunity to design headpieces, always encouraged me to innovate and push myself harder, without any fear.

Your headpieces are actually quite popular. How easy or tricky it is to keep innovating? I think I was born to create headpieces. When I used to style shoots, I remember I would pick up random things and make headpieces out of them. Whenever I’m sketching, I always think of the head first. My headpieces just happen magically. It all comes naturally to me.

Tell us about the other highlight of your work—the deconstructed sari. How did you conceive the idea?A few years back when I was studying in London, I was going through this whole ‘incredible India’ phase and I was collecting these really beautiful and exquisite Benarasi saris. The motifs of these vintage saris were still intact and the zari work was stunning. So I decided to do a collection of accessories that made ample use of the zari and gave it a modern touch. The idea was to create a sari that was fuss-free and easy to wear. It comprised a pleated skirt and a checkered pallu to which I added men’s shirts and bow ties.

In London, millinery is an everyday thing whereas India doesn’t have that culture.

What made you stick to your job?I started out with smaller headgear and people began to wear the floral headbands at first. Then we graduated to lace and a little more funky stuff. Today, I get requests from children as well as women above 60 and I love that. It’s a good balance. I’m thankful to the media and everyone who didn’t diss me and say things like, ‘What is she thinking? Why is she making headpieces?’ Instead they all liked my designs and waited to see what I could do next. Their interest and confidence kept me going.

You have showcased at many fashion weeks in London and Paris, and your headpieces found a fan in Lady Gaga. How does it feel? It’s a bit surprising, but it’s surely a nice feeling.

What’s your latest collection about? In my current collection, I am doing three stories—the first one in denim, the second is a collection of katori shirts, and the last bit is fantastical, like Little Shilpa. Every time I do a collection, I hope to create an

Mumbai—one can always find a piece of my past in my work. I am also inspired by things and people around me—family, friends, literature... There was a phase when I was totally smitten with French poet Charles Baudelaire. In fact, I did two back-to-back collections, both of which were inspired by his poems.

How did you get your first big break in the industry? I was studying at SNDT Women’s University in Mumbai and Hemant Trivedi used to teach us back then. I had won the award for the most innovative collection

emotion. I like to stir something in my audience. Whether they love it or hate it, I want reactions.

Any designers you look up to or whose work excites you? Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. They are storytellers and when you see their work, it does something to you.

Lastly, what do you want to be known as—Shilpa the designer, or Shilpa the artist? It’s quite simple, I can’t be an artist without being a designer. And I can’t be a fashion designer without being an artist because I want to create things. I have to tell a story. I want to do artistic fashion.

ramp shots from little shilpa’s collection as presented at the blenders pride fashion tour. extreme right: shilpa chavan of little shilpa

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Small WonderA stylist? A designer? A milliner? Wait, she is an all-in-one artist. Known for her quirky

sense of style, Little Shilpa can translate trash into treasure in no time. An intuitive designer, she loves to juxtapose the past with the present to create her avant-garde designs.

By DessiDre Fleming