Upload
will
View
56
Download
6
Embed Size (px)
DESCRIPTION
MakerFarm Linear Prusa Build Guide
Citation preview
V2 Linear Kit with Z Stabilizers
V2 Linear Prusa Kit - Deluxe Thank you for purchasing the Reprap Prusa Linear Kit, here is the Recommended Parts List
with links to the build guide and Linear Prusa Help Guide. Let me know if you have
any questions.
Thanks,
Colin Farrer
Purchase 3 of 5/16-18 or 8mm Threaded Rods 6 foot lenghts (Local Hardware Store, Lowes or Home
Depot) (Total of 18 feet or 6 Meters) (8mm 1.25 Pitch McMaster.com P# 93000A573 or 93325A080)
Cut the Threaded Rods to the Following Lengths
6 @ 371mm - 14 5/8"
7 @ 295mm - 11 5/8"
2 @ 440mm - 17 1/3"
1 @ 50mm - 2"
Purchase 3 of 5/16" or 8mm Smooth Rods (McMaster.com P# 8893K41 or 8888k41 or 8116K7) (Total of 9
feet or 3 meters)
Cut the Smooth Rods to the Following Lengths
2 @ 384mm - X Axis - 15 1/8"
2 @ 394mm - Y Axis - 15 1/2"
2 @ 335mm - Z Axis - 13 1/4"
Here are a few tips for building your Linear Prusa.
Before inserting the Linear Bearings into the plastic pieces, warm the
plastic pieces with a blow dryer to prevent breaking the Plastic. If
you do break a piece of plastic you can always zip tie the bearing in
place.
Insert the M3 Nuts into the Y Linear Holders before you install the
Linear Bearings.
The Motor gears may need to be put on Backwards to clear the set
screw
If you are upgrading a Prusa to Linear Bearings you will need to cut
down your X rods to be 15 1/8" or 384mm. Use the M3 nuts and bolts
that were used to hold the X rods in place and move them to hold the
Y Linear Holders to the Laser Cut MDF Bed.
Place a 5/16” (M8) nut, 5/16” (M8) washer and then a frame vertex with foot followed by a 5/16” (M8) washer and the 5/16” (M8) nut on to each end of the rod. Loosely tighten the nuts.
Take one of the 14 5/8“ (371mm) threaded rods, and slide a Z Stabilizer to the middle. Place a 5/16” (M8) washer and then a 5/16” (M8) nut either side of the clamp.
Attach a non footed frame vertex to the connect up the triangle.
Repeat all the above instructions until you have two matching frame triangles
Attach two more 14 5/8” (371mm) lengths of threaded rod to each footed frame vertex, using a 5/16” (M8) washer and 5/16” (M8) nut either side as before.
Place each frame flat on you desk, using your ruler tighten the nuts until each side is 290mm (measure from
plastic to plastic)
Take a Bar clamp and attach in to a 11 5/8” (295mm) length of threaded rod, approximately a quarter of the
way in from one end. Fix in place with a 5/16” (M8) washer and 5/16” (M8) nut either side. Then attach a
5/16” (M8) nut and 5/16” (M8) washer half way down the rod. Attach this rod through the top hole of the Y
motor mount.
Take the Y motor mount and attach a 11 5/8” (295mm) length of Threaded rod through the bottom hole,
approximately half way along the rod. Fix in place with a 5/16” (M8) washer and 5/16” (M8) nut either side
Add a bar clamp to the rod attaching with a 5/16” (M8) washer and 5/16” (M8) nut either side
Add the following components, a 5/16” (M8) Mudguard washer, 5/16” (M8) washer, 608zz bearing,
5/16” (M8) washer, 5/16” (M8) Mudguard washer and then a nut.
On a new 11 5/8” (295mm) length of rod attach a 608zz bearing, followed by a 5/16” (M8) washer, 5/16” (M8)
Mudguard washer and 5/16” (M8) nut either side. Attach the remaining two bar claps either side of this,
attaching with 5/16” (M8) washers and 5/16” (M8) nuts either side.
Take the rod assembly which has the two rods held apart by the Y motor mount, add a 5/16” (M8) nut followed
by a 5/16” (M8) washer.
Take one of the frame triangles made earlier and attach the Y motor mount rod assembly through the holes in the
frame vertex with foot. Attach in place with 5/16” (M8) washers and 5/16” (M8) nuts.
Attach the two remaining 11 5/8” (295mm) assembles to the other frame vertex with foot the same way as above. Note
make sure the rods with the 608zz bearings are above the rods without bearings.
Prepare the opposite ends with 5/16” (M8) nut and 5/16” (M8) washer, attach the other frame triangle. Before
attaching in place with a 5/16” (M8) washer and 5/16” (M8) nut measure the gap between the footed frame
vertex's it needs to be 234mm from the inside to inside of the plastic frame vertex.
Stand the frame on the footed frame vertex's. Take a 17 1/3” (440mm) length of threaded rod slide
half way through one of the holes on one of the non footed frame vertex, add a 5/16” (M8) washer,
two 5/16” (M8) nuts and finally a washer. Slide this all the way through the opposite frame vertex
hole. Turn the frame so that the side with the Y motor mount is facing you. Check that the spacing
between the inside of the plastic frame vertex is 240mm (yes you are reading that correctly 240mm).
Maintaining this measurement adjust the rod so that there is at least 89mm of rod on the right side,
measure from the out side of the plastic frame vertex. Add a 5/16” (M8) washer and 5/16” (M8) nut
to secure this rod in place at each end. Repeat this process with the second 17 1/3” (440mm) length.
The four bar clamps now need to be spaced correctly, with the Y motor mount in back the Right Bar Clamps
need to be spaced 36mm from the footed vertex to the Bar Clamp. The Left Bar Clamps need to be spaced
25mm from the footed vertex to the Bar Clamp
The two Z bar Stabilizers on the bottom of the frame triangles now need spacing correctly. The distance from
the frame vertex to the Z bar Stabilizer needs to be 129mm.
With the Y motor mount in front the distance from the inside of the left frame vertex to the Y Motor Mount
needs to be 107mm.
Add one 5/16” (M8) washer to the upper left and right sides
Now take another 11 5/8” (295mm) length of threaded rod and screw it through both Z motor Stabilizers and
secure the threaded rod with 2 washers and 2 nuts on each Stabilizer.
Insert a M3 nut in to each of the nut sized holes on the inside of the two Z motor mounts. (the nut holes will be
tight, if you use a 10mm long bolt as you tighten the bolt it will pull the nuts into the Z motor mount as shown
below. Then remove the 10mm bolts and use the 22mm long bolts as shown in step 14)
Attach a rod clamp to each of the Z motor mounts using two M3 22mm screws each with 2 washers and M3 nut
by the head of the screw.
Attach a rod clamp to both of the Z Stabilizers using 2 M3x22mm bolts & nuts & 2 washers. (If it is difficult
to get the nuts or bearing into the Z Stabilizer you can bevel the edge of the holes with a knife or razor blade)
Attach each a Z motor mount to either side of the upper 17 1/3” (440mm) threaded rods and attach in place
with a 5/16” (M8) washer and 5/16” (M8) nut.
After the Y Axis Linear Bearings Holders have been bolted to the MDF Plate push the Linear Bearings into the holders.
Find the Laser Cut MDF Plate, 4 of the Y Axis linear Bearing Holders, 8 M3 nuts and 8 M3x10mm bolts. Insert a nut into each of the nut recesses in the Y Axis linear bearing holders. Secure to the MDF Plate with the M3x10mm Bolts.
Install a M3 nut into the nut recess on the bottom of the gear, put gear onto Motor Shaft (You may need to drill out the hole in the gear to the correct size of your motor shaft) then install grub screw to secure gear to motor shaft.
Install the 2 15.5“ smooth rods into the linear bearings attatched to the MDF plate, then install into the 4 bar clamps as shown. Tighten the nuts on either side of the bar clamps and make sure MDF plate still moves freely. If it binds at either side loosen the bar clamps and re-tighten.
Using 3 M3x10mm bolts install the motor into the Y motor bracket (You may have to losen the nut by the bearing to get the top M3 bolt into place.
Using 4 M3x22mm bolts, 4 M3 washers, 4 M3 nuts and 2 belt clamps install them as shown on the bottom of the MDF sheet so they are aligned with the front and back belt bearings. Then Tighten the belt and cut off the excess belt to use for the X Axis
Install 2 LM8UU Bearings into the X Idler, then get the 2“ (50mm) Threaded Rod, 3 washers, 2 fender washers, 2 nuts and 1 608 bearing. Install them into the X Idler as shown.
For the X Axis gather the following items:
Warm up the X Carriage with a blow dryer before installing the 3 LM8UU Bearings, if a leg breaks you can zip tie the bearings into place using the zip tie holes in the x carriage. Note: 1 of the belt mounts has recesses for M3 nuts, another has recesses for the heads of the M3x22mm bolts and the last belt clamp does not have any recesses.
Next install 2 LM8UU Bearings into the X Motor, install a Gear onto a motor as was done previously (Notice the gear is on Backwards). Using 2 M3x10mm bolts and 1 M3x22mm Bolts, bolt the Motor to the X Motor bracket as shown, use the M3x22mm bolt to secure the Optical Flag to the X Motor Bracket and Motor.
Install the 2 15 1/8“ (384mm) Rods through the X carriage LM8UU Bearings then into the holes in the X Motor and X Idler Brackets. Clamp the belt onto the right side of the X carrige using the belt clamp that does not have any recesses, use 2 M3x22mm Bolts & nuts.
Run the belt around the motor gear, over the 608 bearing and back to the X Carriage, Install a M3x22mm bolt and nut on the left side of the x carriage to act as a belt tensioner, then install the belt clamp with the recess for the bolt heads on top and the belt clamp with the recesses for the nuts on the bottom, right now leave the belt loose.
Place the X Carriage on the MDF Plate (Old Acrylic Plate Shown) with the X Motor in the back just like the Y motor, then take 2 13 1/4“ (335mm) smooth rods and carefully slide them through the X Carriage and X Idler„s Linear Bearings (See Arrows in Picture), then Secure the Top and bottom of the Smooth Rods with the Rod Clamps we installer earllier.
Install a 608 bearing into the 2 Z Stabilizers. (Bevel the edge of the plastic hole with a knife if the bearing doesn„t fit)
Place one of the Threaded Rods with the Nut on the bottom through the Opening in the Z Motor Mount through the X Idler (You will need to punch out a thin layer of plastic in the X Idler and X Motor where the threaded rod goes). The repeat on the other side with the X Motor Bracket.
Install 1 Nut on each of the 11 5/8“ (295mm) Rods about 2 inches from the bottom.
Next Gather the Following Items: 2 Z Motors, 8 M3x22mm Bolts, 8 M3 Nuts, 4 Z Coupler Halfs & Piece of Clear Tubing.
Lift up the X Carriage Assembly and Install 3 nuts on the bottom of both Threaded Rods, notice how the first nut will sit in the recess of the X Idler and X Motor Brackets
Install the 2 Motors into the Z Motor Brackets using 4 M3x10mm Bolts per motor, you may also use a washer on each bolt if needed. Adjust the Threaded Rod so it barely touches the Z Motor Shaft.
Cut the Clear Tubing in Half, put the 2 pieces on your 2 Z Motors.
Lift the X Carriage Assembly again and raise the first bolt you put on the threaded rods until it engages the bottom of the X Idler and X Carriage, then lower the 2 nuts until they reach the 608 bearing, tighten them on each other. Repeat on the other side. Now you should be able to turn the 2 motors by hand to raise and lower the x carriage.
Take 2 Halfs of the 2 Coupler (One with nut retainers, one without) put the small grooves together and the large grooves together then bolt onto the Motor and Threaded Rod, make sure the Small Groove goes on the Motor Shaft and Large Groove goes on the Threaded Rod.
Install the Optical Endstops on to the Holders as in the Picture Below, the 2 that are identical are for the X and Y Axis, the odd one is for the Z Axis.
If you have Gen6 Electronics you will use the Optical Endstops shown below, if you use Printrboard or Ramps you will use Mechanical switches, jump ahead to # 11B
Gather the Optical Sensors , Endstop Holders, Y Axis Printed Flag, 11 M3x22mm bolts and M3 Nuts.
Insert the Switch into the endstop Holder, depending on the printer the switch may be installed the opposite direction compared to the photo below.
Printrboard Endstops: Gather the 3 endstops and endstop holders (only one of each is shown below)
Install the Y Axis Optical Endstop by the Y Motor using an M3x22mm Bolt and nut, Install the Optical Flag onto the Lower Acrylic Plate using 2 M3x22mm Bolts and Nuts, Make sure the Flag enters the Optical Sensor Freely.
The Y Axis Mechanical Endstop will have the Switch Lever hit the Y Linear Bearing holder.
Install the Z Axis Optical Endstop just below the X Motor Bracket using a M3x22mm Bolt and Nut, Notice the Optical Flag on the X Motor Bracket, Make sure it can freely enter the Optical Sensor. Once the Heated Bed is installed you will raise or lower this endstop to have your prints start on the Printed bed instead of printing above the Bed or digging your nozzle into your heated bed.
For Mechanical Endstops they will go in the same place as the Optical endstops, but won‘t need the Optical
Flags.
Install the X Axis Optical Endstop using an M3x22mm Bolt and Nut (If your belt hits the M3x22mm Bolt flip it around the other way. Make sure the Flag built into the X Carriage enters the Optical Sensor Freely.
The Mechanical Endstop will just need to contact any part of the X Carriage
Get your Extruder, Hot End, Acrylic Mounting Plate and the 2 M4x20mm Bolts and M4 Nuts.
Go to MakerFarm.com, in the Build Instructions Section, follow the steps to build your Hot End and Extruder.
Using the 2 M4x20mm Bolts and M4 Nuts install the Extruder and Hot End like in the picture below. (You may need to turn the Z Motors by hand to raise the X Assembly high enough to install the Extruder)
Put the Hot End into the large hole in the bottom of the Extruder, make sure the wires exit the side opposite the large gear. Install the Acrylic Mounting Plate (Remove the Protective film) and make sure the holes align with the holes in the extruder base.
Using the M3x22mm Bolts, Nuts and Spacers mount the Heat bed onto the MDF Plate, For wire strain relief you can zip tie the Wires for the heat bed to one of the corner bolts as shown below. For best printing results put a piece of glass covered on one side with Kapton tape on top of your heat bed and secure using Binder Clips.
If you have a Heated Bed, go to www.MakerFarm.com, in the Build Instructions section follow the Heated Bed Install Guide, after you are finished you will have a heat bed wired like the picture below (your wires may be different colors and you may recieve lasercut MDF risers instead of the white nylon ones shown below)
Mount your RAMPS, Gen6 or Printrboard Electronics to the MDF Mount with 4 M3x22mm Bolts and M3 Nuts. (GEN6 Shown)
If you purchase a kit with Electronics you will get an MDF Electronics Mount (Acrylic version shown). Zip tie it to the frame on the side opposide the Y Motor Mount.
Follow the Gen6 Software Install Guide at MakerFarm.com to upload the current firmware, install all the drivers and install the software to run your Printer. After that you should be up and Printing. Feel free to e-mail me with any questions.
Colin Farrer
Makerfarm.com
If you are using PrintrBoard Skip ahead to 11.
Now Plug in all your wires to your Gen6 using the Diagram Below. Make sure to you the Custom Z Motor Cable to connect both your Z Motor„s to the single Z Motor Gen6 Connection. Under the Connector you will find a Potentiometer that may need to be adjusted to give your Motors more Current if needed.
Secure the Thermistor to the bottom of the heat bed (Kapton tape works great for this)
PRINTRBOARD WIRING
Your kit will come with 3 large motors and 2 small motors, the 2 small motors will be connected together for the Z axis.
By each motor connector you will find a Potentiometer that may need to be adjusted clockwise to give your Motors more current if needed or if they get to hot less current by turning it counter clockwise. (Only turn the potentiometer 1/8 of a turn at a time and re-test before adjusting further)
Heated Bed:
Solder your wires to the heat bed if they are pre-wired, otherwise strip off 1/8“ or 3mm of insulation from your wire, solder two of the wires to each of the the 2 large pads so your wires go in the direction of the corner mounting hole. For Printrboard connect two wires
PRINTRBOARD WIRING
Power Connector: Use a standard ATX Power supply to power the Printrboard.
PRINTRBOARD WIRING
Final Connections: Connect everything as seen below:
Follow the PrintrBoard Software Install Guide at MakerFarm.com to upload the current firmware, install all the drivers and install the software to run your Printer. After that you should be up and Printing. Feel free to e-mail me with any questions.
Colin Farrer
Makerfarm.com