WWDSTYLEEmmy’s Got a

Brand New BagElie Tahari and Emmy

Rossum collaborate on handbags. Page 2.

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Lights, Cameras,Sidaction!The ninth annual Sidaction AIDS benefi t helped close out couture week in Paris on Thursday night. Among the more than 700 gala goers was French starlet Mélanie Thierry, seen above in YSL.For more, see page 8.

TYLEEmmy’s Got a

Brand New BagElie Tahari and Emmy

on handbags. Page 2.

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accessoriesBy LAUREN BENET STEPHENSON

AFTER YEARS of wearing Elie Tahari’s designs and tailoring them to her liking, actress Emmy Rossum felt she had some constructive criticism to offer.

Tahari said, “I was talking to her about her style and I saw that she had good taste and she liked [my] bags. She’d say, ‘I wish it was this way, I wish it was like that…’ and I said, ‘You know what, Emmy? You come in and you design it like you like.’”

From there the idea for a handbag collaboration developed. A year later, the duo has revealed the cre-ation of a leather “Emmy” bucket bag with cotton can-vas interior, available in four sizes, in tan, black, white, mushroom, yellow and metallic. The Elie Tahari bags will be available for $398 to $798 beginning in March at retailers including Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. A portion of all proceeds will go to the charity Safe Horizon.

Rossum said of the collaboration: “It blossomed very organically.”

When it came to the nitty-gritty of the handbag’s de-sign, Rossum was concerned with the bag’s practical details. “I thought a lot about the kind of bag I wanted: versatile, worn by the working woman in any season,” she said. “It was important that it had compartments in the sides, because I hate those big bags where your iPod cord gets mixed in with your lip gloss.”

The creative process appealed to her. “I grew up singing in choirs at the Met Opera. When a new di-rector would come in and have a new production…we got to work with our costumer to pick out our fabrics. It was a creative process behind the scenes, it was very exciting, and I always felt at home there,” she said. “So being part of that creative pro-

cess [with Tahari], touching the leathers, picking the fabrics, think-ing ‘What would I really want to wear?’ was great.”

Tahari concurred, “Besides it being fun, I think that she created a beautiful bag, it’s very interest-ing, very exciting. I think the fact that she’s involved...it’s good for our image as a company and it was just a good experience.”

Which isn’t to say an Emmy Rossum fashion line is soon to follow:

“One thing at a time,” said Rossum. “I want to get really great at what I do fi rst, then maybe later I’ll branch off. Right now I’ll leave it to the people who do it best.”

Rossum has evolved her own personal style since her cinema debut eight years ago as Katie Markum in “Mystic River.”

“I started out very New York: clean lines, sophis-ticated. Very grown-up for a little girl. [My style] has developed to be a little more relaxed, a little bit more comfortable. Spending more time on the West Coast as well, I’ve become a little bit more bohemian, but I’ll never go totally that way,” said Rossum.

She’s recently taken to scouring vintage fi nds on eBay, “but I limit myself to options under $30.”

Rossum currently stars on Showtime’s “Shameless,” which she describes as “an outrageous show that let’s us say crazy things and do crazy things.” She plays Fiona Gallagher, the eldest in a thoroughly modern, albeit dysfunctional family. “My character’s really not glamorous at all, which is a big change from what I’ve done in the past. I found it very liberating. Sometimes I fi nd it a little intimidating to have to be glamorous. Here, you’re stripped down to what you really are, there’s not anything anyone can criti-cize. It’s like, ‘Go ahead, take a shot…’ Plus, boyfriends always say you look best in the morning, right?”

And have there been any such boyfriends recently? “I’m keep-ing my eyes and ears open, but I’ve got nothin’ goin’ on,” Rossum said.

DIRECT-SELLING JEWELRY company Stella & Dot is reinventing the “Avon lady” stereotype with the help of new talent and new technology.

After an extensive career in publishing, Lynette Brubaker made an unexpected turn, becoming chief operating offi cer of Stella & Dot this month.

“I had a fulfilling career, I had done ev-erything, but I was traveling 65 percent of my time,” Brubaker said. “I woke up one day and

thought, ‘What am I doing?’ I believe there are different jobs for different life cycles, and it’s time for me to try something that gave me a little more flexibility for my own time.”Brubaker will oversee the marketing team, the fi eld development team and the sales team.

Also this month, venture capital fi rm Sequoia Capital announced plans for a 10 percent minority investment in the company.

In addition, Alfred Lin, former chief operating offi cer of Zappos, will be joining the Stella & Dot board. Lin said, “Despite its already rocket-ship growth, it’s clear this company is in its infancy, with

multibillion-dollar potential. They are creating tre-mendous and real value for their sellers.”

Stella & Dot was founded in 2004 by Jessica Herrin in San Francisco. Herrin was hardly new to the entrepreneurial world — in 1998 she started, and later sold, weddingchannel.com.

Herrin said with Stella & Dot, however, she had a new mission. “I wanted to start with a blank piece of paper and say, ‘What would the best busi-

ness platform be for the modern woman?’” As a businesswoman with two young children, Herrin hoped to build a model “that really works for today’s professional-savvy woman.”

She conceived of a direct-selling fashion company with a strong online component. “Any business today has to be multichan-nel and customer-obsessed. Our customer wants the same level of service you’d get from Zappos,” she said. Backed by Douglas Mackenzie from Radar Partners, a venture capital fi rm, Herrin launched her company.

The core of Stella & Dot is its direct-sell-er model, which focuses on “stylists” who sell the company’s jewelry. Unlike other di-rect-selling organizations, the fi rm’s stylists aren’t reliant on “Tupperware parties” and physical gatherings, as they’re given their own Stella & Dot URL from which to con-duct business.

Additionally, Stella & Dot’s jewelry aims to be fashion-focused and has an 11-person

design team. “This is a fashion business. The prod-uct is extremely well designed, high quality and on-trend,” said Brubaker.

Seven years and 13,000 stylists later, Stella & Dot reported revenue of $104 million in 2010.

“We are a billion-dollar brand in the making. This year we’re focusing on expansion across the board, both with geography and products. Next year we’re looking to expand to Europe.” Herrin added, “The most delightful surprise is I’ve been able to grow and nurture three babies — [my two daugh-ters] and Stella & Dot.”

— L.B.S.

Elie Tahari Launches Emmy Rossum HandbagThe Emmy bag by

Elie Tahari. Below: Elie Tahari and Emmy Rossum.

Stella & Dot Finds the Sweet Spot

Stella & Dot founder Jessica Herrin.

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

NEW YORK — Marina B, the fine jewelry collection conceived by Marina Bulgari in the Eighties, will

relaunch later this year. Acquired by Windsor Jewels Inc.

last year, the company will un-veil about 50 to 60 styles

at the Couture Show at The Wynn Hotel in Las Vegas in June, said chief executive officer Paul Lubetsky.

“The industry is miss-ing that strong look that used to be around in the Eighties,” Lubetsky said. “Everything is retro chic in design. It’s not your

standard jewelry look. It’s very bold.”

Wholesale prices start at $1,000 and venture well into the million-dollar range,

but the average price hovers around $6,000.

Pendant earrings and neck-laces made with 18-karat yel-

low gold, baguette diamonds and precious and semiprecious stones wholesale for $5,800 and $10,000, respectively. Other materials include golden sapphires, rubies, honey-colored ci-trine, tourmaline, onyx and black jade.

Lubetsky’s team combed through Bulgari’s archives, which contained thousands of her old designs, some dating back nearly 30 years. “We’re taking the best pieces [Bulgari] ever had and remaking them. We’re making to the exact standards that she made them. We aren’t skimping anywhere.”

Marina B earrings.

Windsor Jewels Acquires Marina B

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accessories

By Jennifer Weil

PAriS — retailers who made the rounds at the Premiere Classe trade show that ran from Jan. 22 to 25 here were on the lookout for unique accessories.

“We’re just trying to find something that no one else has,” said Chad Harris, who was buy-ing for relish, a 2,000-square-foot store in Metairie, la., where accessories generate at least 18 percent of revenues. “We’re looking at everything from an everyday bag to jewelry to shoes.”

He earmarked a budget about 20 percent higher for the upcom-ing fall season than for the cur-rent one. Harris said relish’s business is growing by double digits and that jewelry sells best among acces-sories categories.

Sue elster and Sue Tusder trolled Premiere Classe for an accessories store they plan to open in north or west london, possibly by yearend. “We’re looking for something that’s very different or something that’s very

high quality,” said elster. Among the resources they particular-ly liked were Sophie Digard’s scarves in merino wool or linen with wholesale prices from 85 euros to 130 euros, or $115 to $176 at current exchange.

Catherine lupis Thomas was on the hunt for leather gloves and hard hats for her Paris-based, 577-square-foot store, called 1962. its best-selling ac-cessories are leather bags.

“normally, we only buy Orla Kiely bags,” said Thomas.

Kiely herself was at the show. Her signature brand is selling more leather accessories than before, and pieces mixing print and leather “are also doing ex-

tremely well,” said Dermott rowan, Orla Kiely’s managing director.

Villemoustaussou, france-based brand nicole de rivals displayed its cowhide bags. Samuel Coraux, of Paris, featured his brightly colored jewelry design in Murano glass and in plastic, while Corrine Philippon, also of Paris, showed upscale headbands. l’Atelier des Dames, from Capbreton, france, had delicate necklac-es, and Céline robert, from le Mans, france, offered up a range of hats for women and men. The attendee level at Premiere Classe and its adjoining trade show Who’s next gained 4 percent year-over-year to 54,182 buyers. There was a 6.7 percent uptick of non-french attend-ees and a 2.1 percent increase of domestic buyers.

Meanwhile, at the eclat de Mode trade show nearby, which ran from Jan. 21 to 24, brands said the jewelry business has held its ground despite hikes in gold and silver prices.

“People seek things that are a bit lighter to be in the market but significant pieces work also — it all depends on the clientele,” said Annie Busson, presi-dent of Paris-based Clio Blue, who thinks 2011 “will be a good year.”

AC Creation, of nice, france, recently diversified its coral-based jewelry line with models such as cam-eos and used less gold and more silver, too.

By COUrTneY SMiTH

ViCenZA, italy — Gold and jewelry fair Vicenzaoro first 2011, which ended a six-day run Jan. 20, produced some positive signs for the sector.

With 1,500 high-end brands exhib-iting in this northeastern italian city, companies rallied to supersede the challenges of the economic crisis of the past few years — skyrocketing costs of precious metals and depressed de-mand — but as consumer confidence grows, the outlook is brightening.

for rosato, the U.S. market is re-bounding in a big way. formerly under the ownership of the now-bankrupt Mariella Burani fashion Group, rosato is now controlled by American fine jewelry manufacturer and market-er richline Group, a unit of Berkshire Hathaway. The change in ownership will allow founder Simona rosato to focus on brand innovation.

“We can restart and expand in the American market with richline’s fi-nancial support, while they can use us as a base for the european market,” a spokeswoman said.

rosato’s latest contribution to the American market is its My Dog collec-tion, featuring enamel and Swarovski crystal dog charms worn on silver-bead necklaces.

Also hopeful for a comeback of the American market is Australia-based Autore. While the firm won’t rule out a boutique in the U.S., as the brand is now only available at neiman Marcus and independent stores, it remains cautious.

“That could be in the cards, al-though we just opened up our second store in Australia, so the future for us is one day at a time,” said Justin Schwarz, international director of jew-elry sales.

Autore’s newest line is Venezia, fea-turing majestic pieces in South Sea pearls and white diamonds, and in-spired by Venetian architecture.

Although most vendors were en-thusiastic about U.S. expansion, some were looking elsewhere for growth.

“We haven’t felt like the American market has been what it seems for quite some time, and, to be hon-est, we feel it’s our responsibility to make our brand known in other coun-tries, especially the Arab world,” said Massimiliano Staurino, managing director of Staurino fratelli, whose Skyline Collection boasts silver silhou-ettes of new York City’s twinkling sky-scrapers wrapped around enamel cuffs.

Other brands are coping with the slump by drawing on innovative design paired with money-saving strategies. family-run brand Staurino fratelli was inspired by its best-selling collections from the Sixties, Seventies and eighties.

“in order to look forward, we’re looking into their past,” explained marketing manager Christina Knappitsch.

Strategizing was important for Marco Bicego, owner and designer of the Vicenza-based Bicego brand. Created in 1958 by his father, Bicego’s exclusive line for the U.S. market is the Africa Collection, made up of tactile, artisanal pieces in hand-engraved gold, diamonds and pearls.

“it was a good year [in 2010] because of a combination of things,” Bicego said. “After the crisis, everybody had to do

their jobs better — everyone from adver-tisers to marketing, we had to strategize, and i think this was the way to success.”

This year’s trends called on na-ture, animal forms and sophistication. Brands adapted textures from nature in organic, opulent patterns in matte and pink gold.

franco Pianegonda, creator and owner of Pianegonda, showed a gold ring fractured with veins, sugges-tive of wood. Staurino fratelli’s Zen Collection imitated bamboo and leaf

forms, while the gold matte beads of Bicego’s Africa Collection were remi-niscent of pebbles.

Vicenza-based roberto Coin’s take on the animal trend was seen in gold and sapphire octopuses shaped as bracelets and rings, or rings in thick swaths of gold ribbon and jewels, remi-niscent of vipers.

Coin added, “There is a saying: ‘The future belongs to the person who believes in the beauty of their own dreams,’ and i keep on dreaming.”

Fresh Items Key at Premiere Classe

Jewelry Fair Promising for Industry

’’’’

After the crisis, everybody had to do their jobs better — everyone from advertisers to marketing, we had to strategize, and I think

this was the way to success.— Marco bicego

Marco Bicego

bangles.

An octopus ring from Roberto Coin.

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Scarves from Sophie Digard.

handbag showroom: 29 west 35th street, 2nd floor 212.868.2770

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fashion6 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 31, 2011

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Madden Plotting Johnson’s Growth

LAPHAM’S SHOOTING STARS: Rather than celebrate our celebrity-crazy culture, Lewis Lapham gave it a royal roast recently with help from Philip Seymour Hoffman, Mandy Patinkin, Alec Baldwin and Linda Emond. Judg-ing from all the self-mocking, it was clear that all of the VIPs were in on the joke. Who knew Baldwin could do such a convincing Andy Warhol imperson-ation? And after a lofty introduction by Oskar Eustis, Hoffman took to the stage and shrugged, “Whatever he said.” (Like the rest of the evening’s notables, the Oscar winner offered his services for free.) Taylor Mac ser-enaded Patinkin before dashing out the door for his curtain call at “La Mama.”

The variety-show-type gathering at Joe’s Pub marked the release of Lapham’s Quarterly’s celebrity issue. During a Q&A with Eustis, Lapham said, “We’ve gotten to the point in America and in the early part of the 22nd century where celebrity is the most precious commodity in a consumer society….That being said, celebrity is an old story.”

Beyond the old tales, movie cam-eras, TV screens, Facebook and the Internet have created “an immense abundance of celebrity in our culture,” Lapham said. “It’s a manufactured product. It’s probably one of the biggest

products that we make in the United States. It is made by the media, and the media really drives a Faustian bargain. They make somebody a celebrity, and in return they get fame and riches, exact-ing the penance of having to become part of the feast of this public ritual.”

More simply put, as Bob Dylan or any celebrity will tell you, there is a dark side, Lapham said. “The thing is, when you become a celebrity, it turns a subject into an object. You become a product, a commodity. And a consumer product was meant to be consumed.”

Asked by WWD if there were any celebrities he has envied over the years, Lapham said with a laugh, “I’m really envious of all of them.” — R.F.

CLOSE TO HOME: Juicy Couture is about to make its spring ad campaign debut on a Sunset Boulevard billboard in Los Angeles — a first for the brand — followed by a series of print images that break in March magazines. Staying true to the brand’s West Coast heritage, Lori Goldstein styled models Daria Strokous, Hanne Gaby and Viktoriya to channel a carefree, bohemian spirit that is more of a throwback to California style in the Seventies. The ads, shot by Steven Meisel, will run in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, W, Elle and InStyle. — AMy WICkS

MEMO PAD

By RosemaRy FeitelbeRg

NeW yoRK — Rather than wait out the still-stalled econ-omy, steve madden is on the hunt for new labels and is ramping up betsey Johnson’s business.

last fall steven madden ltd. took over a $48.8 million loan to Johnson’s firm and absolved it in exchange for ownership of the brand’s intellectual prop-erty. madden is so comfortable with the designer’s stewardship that he will be at a las Vegas shoe show instead of her Feb. 14 runway show at lincoln Center. “the last thing she needs is steve madden there,” he said during an interview last week.

Unlike other designer take-overs where the financial ex-ecutives often commandeer the apparel design, madden is leav-ing that to Johnson. Nor does he plan to cover the country with betsey Johnson boutiques. Perhaps that’s because steven madden ltd. has been clicking along even before the purchase of Johnson. For the third quarter ended sept. 30, net sales increased 31.4 percent to $184.1 million, and comp-store sales jumped 16 percent.

madden’s plans for further growth at betsey Johnson include:

■ Ramping up shoes to make that cat-egory 25 percent of the designer’s total business within the next 12 months.

■ introducing children’s wear for in-fants through tweens through a licens-ee for fall 2012.

■ launching a fragrance this fall.as for steven madden ltd., the

founder said the company is: ■ actively looking for footwear and

accessories labels to acquire this year.■ opening eight steve madden stores

this year, although a few will close.■ opening the first boutique for big

buddha, a handbag label acquired last year, in the smith Haven mall.

■ adding a designer canvas sneaker brand this fall.

■ Unveiling a contemporary sports-wear label within the next three months.

Within the next 18 months, Johnson’s footwear sales should ac-count for $25 million of her $150 mil-lion business. the collection will be in

500 doors in march, with many styles retailing for about $110, or 20 percent less than the designer’s previous shoe lines. intent as he is on bolstering the shoe business, madden is taking more measured steps with the designer’s sportswear. Distribution centers on specialty stores and select major de-

partment stores like Nordstrom and bloomingdale’s. there are no immedi-ate plans for a secondary label.

“We want to keep it small and spe-cial,” he said. “Unlike many designers who have teams, betsey actually designs the clothes. it’s been an interesting deal, because she really wants to design. i said we can get you some help, some as-sistants, but she didn’t want that.”

madden relishes interaction and noted how he visits his own stores several times a week to watch shop-pers and see what they have to say. launching a mobile site has also helped the company stay connected to consumers. last year nearly 10 mil-lion minutes were spent by consumers on the site and more than $1 million in revenue was generated directly.

like many of his competitors, madden is looking to asia for further growth. the company is “beefing up” sourcing in China’s emerging Putian area to have a greater presence there, said madden, adding, “in that part of the world, you really have to be mar-ried to your sourcing.”

By maRC KaRimZaDeH

NeW yoRK — For the second time, Diane von Furstenberg is tipping her hat to women from around the globe who have made a difference in the lives of other women. on march 11, von Furstenberg and tina brown will host the second edition of the DVF awards.

the event, at the United Nations on the last night of the Daily beast’s Women in the World summit, will honor Kakenya Ntaiya of Kenya and sohini Chakraborty saleem of india, two women in the Vital Voices global Network, the nongovernmental organi-zation von Furstenberg supports.

the People’s Voice award will be de-termined by the public. Voting kicks off today at dvf.com, facebook.com/dvf and dailybeast.com and will be open for two weeks. the DVF awards board of advisers

nominated lyn Pentecost of the lower eastside girls Club, malika saada saar of the Rebecca Project, Zeinab eyega of sauti yetu Center for african Women, taryn Davis of the american Widow Project and susannah shakow of Running start for this year’s People’s Voice award.

“What they all have in common is cour-age and vision, and the desire to help,” von Furstenberg said. “they know that individ-uals can help, and they have the courage, compassion and strength to do it.”

the final award, which went to ingrid betancourt last year, will be re-vealed at a later date.

the awards were created with the support of the Diller-von Furstenberg Family Foundation to heighten expo-sure and give resources to individuals who work on women’s causes. each honoree will receive $50,000 to sustain and further their humanitarian efforts.

DVF Award Honorees Named

Steve Madden

Unlike many designers who have teams,

Betsey [Johnson] actually designs the clothes. It’s been

an interesting deal.— Steve Madden

Juicy Couture’s spring ad

campaign.

By KARYN MONGET

VENdORs will bE treading cau-tiously at this week’s fall 2011 market in hopes that first-quarter business will pick up steam.

based on Christmas sell-throughs, fall offerings will be anchored in key items and fashion merchandise, primar-ily sleepwear, dual-purpose loungewear and robes in a range of colors and prints. shapewear was also a fourth-quarter hit, especially functional pieces such as camis, tanks, full and half-slips, leggings and all-in-one bodysuits that have a ready-to-wear look. And bra specialists are anticipating strong demand for multifunc-tion convertible bras that are pretty and embellished.

Executives said the grow-ing appetite for fashion is en-couraging retailers to slowly embrace new ideas as the industry emerges from the buying patterns of the last two years that saw consum-ers focus on basic under-wear, daywear, T-shirts, socks, slippers and ther-malwear. but while the economy may be recov-ering somewhat, value-priced items remain a must. As a result, vendors will be showing tightly edited collections in a broad palette of bold and bright col-ors and prints, as well as soft, cosmetics-inspired neutrals in an effort to enhance the perceived value of merchandise.

Josie Natori, president and chief ex-ecutive officer of Natori Co., said she will be offering more dual-purpose life-style items in the Natori, Josie Natori, Josie and N Natori collections.

“we’ll be showing key lifestyle looks across the board because today people want versatility in what they’re buying, like at-homewear you can go out in.…i

feel more positive about this market, but we are always cautious because the cus-tomer is still coming in for value and key items. i know what didn’t work for us last fall — dark colors, too drab, too serious. For fall 2011, we are showing brighter, happier prints and colors,” said Natori.

Richard Murray, president of wacoal America, the U.s. arm of innerwear giant wacoal Japan, said a lackluster economy continues to impact business.

“we are as optimistic as we can be with the economy not being

on fire, and we’re all hoping the retail business will con-tinue to improve every day....There have been good weeks and bad weeks in the fourth quarter.…we [the industry] haven’t seen consistent 5 to 6 percent increases, and we haven’t seen that type of growth for a while. i’m sure the snowstorms have had an effect on business, but the weather is only a temporary

thing.”Murray added, “we are

optimistic because we will have so many new styles and colors and our iPant [shaper] gets shipped this month.” wacoal’s iPant is a shaper brief that is mi-croencapsulated with caf-

feine, an ingredient used in beauty products to help smooth the

skin and reduce cellulite.Jan snodgrass, president of Hanro

UsA, said, “some of the uncertainty fac-tors have been around for a while, but we don’t expect things to take a turn for the worse. we expect things to improve, but the overall retail environment still remains challenging. Our optimism is based on a good pipeline of products [based on technological innovation] that are coming in. Hanro is famous for fab-rics, which we produce in-house. in the last year, Hanro has made great strides

in the way our fabrics feel and wear.” snodgrass pointed out a key exam-

ple: Hanro’s ability to produce 100 per-cent cotton fabric with a “softer hand and drape” that the company hasn’t achieved before.

“we are coming into a year that is much better than last year,” said Guido Campello, vice president of sales, mar-keting and innovation at Cosabella. “we’ve been able to differentiate where we’re distributing on the internet, de-partment stores and specialty stores, which are healthier, more confident and more open to trying new ideas. This will make the American market more stable for us, and that stability will allow us to develop more new product and take more risks.…sexy satin and lace did very well for us last fall, so we’re bring-ing it back again, but as more functional items that can be recolored and become basics into the spring.”

Campello said a top idea is a “day-to-night” group that features a cami, a waist cincher, a slip and a convertible bra that can be adjusted for an allover smooth satin look or as a lace-cup bra with satin trim.

Regarding new products, lucille deHart, chief marketing officer at Maidenform brands inc., said the com-pany will be “unveiling one of our biggest concepts for the year,” called Adjusts-to-Me, a line of bras, undies and shapers.

“The line adapts to the changing con-ditions of a woman’s body, fitting her all the time, every day, while compensating for shifts in weight gain, daily fluctua-tions and inaccurate size selections. The collection is featured in an explosion of bra colors and cosmetic tones and fash-ion palettes for panties,” she said.

bob Vitale, executive vice president of sales and marketing at wacoal, said both recolors and new collections by wacoal and b.tempted will be shown for fourth-quarter selling.

“Our b.tempted collection is espe-cially strong for holiday gift-giving so our emphasis is on providing more ex-citing colors to add drama to the selling floors at a key time,” said Vitale.

innerwear7WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 31, 2011

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eyeSidaction Packed

Antique Chic

Fashion and film stars converged for the Sidaction AIDS benefit gala that capped

off Paris couture week on Thursday night. Mélanie Thierry, Diane Kruger, Emmanuelle Béart and Pio Marmaï joined the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier, Phoebe Philo, Peter Dundas, Martine Sitbon and Kris Van Assche at the Pavillon d’Armenonville dining

room in the Bois de Boulogne, where everyone on hand seemed to have a pet

project to discuss. Sylvie Testud, who wore Chanel, said she

just started directing her first feature film, “La vie d’une autre,” starring Juliette Binoche and Mathieu Kassovitz. “I wrote it,” she said. “It’s over exciting.” Judith Godrèche, in Pucci and sporting a new short haircut, said she was also trying to write a script, but her days are not long enough.

“Between work and my children, I have very little time left,” she sighed.

At the Louis Vuitton table, Angela Lindvall rocked a zebra-print jumpsuit and matching embroidered cape that reflected her love of nature. The model has designed her second collection for Bali-based jewelry brand John Hardy, due to go on sale in September. “That was all inspired by insects, because we give 10 percent of the money to charity and I’m really into farming and antipesticides,” she explained.

Gliding by with gifts he’d won in the Sidaction raffle, model Andrej Pejic gushed about his moment playing the bride at the Jean Paul Gaultier couture show the day before. “It was a dream come true,” said Pejic. So what’s in the bag? “A Goyard travel bag — it’s big, it’s red, it’s good,” he said, before sashaying off. Rick Genest, aka Zombie Boy, had donned a tux for the occasion and said he might stage a sideshow performance in New York. “It’s been pretty wild,” the thoroughly tattooed Genest said of his time hanging out with the fashion crowd in Paris, in his new role as muse to Thierry Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti.

Yet for the bevy of outside activity being discussed, all eyes were on Catherine Deneuve as she swept in wearing a black fur stole to take her seat at the table of honor with Sidaction president

Pierre Bergé. “My heart went like that: chickity-chick, chickity-

chick,” gushed actor Niels Schneider, patting his heart as he gazed at Deneuve from the neighboring Dior Homme table.

Diane Kruger in Chanel.

Catherine Deneuve

Rick Genest with Nicola Formichetti.

Angela Lindvall in Louis Vuitton

Poppy Delevigne

and Caroline

Sieber in Louis Vuitton.

The phrase “antiquing” doesn’t generally conjure up images of sequin shifts and Louboutin heels, nor thumping hip-hop music and disco-inspired lighting, but such was the scene Thursday night at New York’s Park Avenue Armory for the Winter Antiques Show’s Young Collectors’ Night.

Whether buying or browsing, attendees happily shed their winter layers to reveal short, sparkly cocktail dresses, though most retained their snow-appropriate footwear throughout the evening, some to a Clydesdale-hoof effect. Event co-chairs Emily Israel and Courtney Booth wore Elie Tahari frocks (a nod to the night’s sponsor) and borrowed jewelry from one of the vendors present. Israel cooed over her ornate gold and pearl earrings before she enthused about the East Side House Settlement in the South Bronx, the night’s beneficiary.

Elsewhere, Wendy Goodman and Randy Kemper inspected a selection of rare books, including an original edition of “The Great Gatsby” marked at $168,000.

“We don’t do especially well, saleswise, at this event,” one jewelry vendor confided. “But it’s really good exposure. Young people are more affluent than they were 50 years ago, so this stuff is of interest to them, and within reach. And it’s fun.”

A festive guest at Young Collectors’ night.

t

Courtney Booth and

Emily Israel in Elie Tahari.

Elizabeth Kurpis with Melissa

Berkelhammer.

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