LIFE REFINED - Maine Travel Maven...LIFE REFINED living life well winter 2017 / 2018 ... designer shops, grand hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants—not to mention local wines,

LI FE R E FI N E Dliving life well winter 2017 / 2018

Atprop_PYoung_wi17_18_cvr.indd 1 10/8/17 4:23 PM

Photo by Archana Patchirajan

SwitzerlandSTORYBOOK

Chalets, cheese, chocolate and a winter playground

By Hilary Nangle

Red-shuttered chalets freckle the snow-blanketed countryside, nimble-footed mountain goats cling to hillsides, the

aroma of melting cheese wafts on the breeze, alpine lifts zipper across mountains and winter trails lace the valleys. In

winter, Switzerland not only glistens with snow but also shines with possibilities.

You don’t need to be a skier to fall in love with Switzerland in winter—schussing endless slopes is just one of the

season’s calling cards. Nordic and hiking trails, tobogganing runs, ice skating rinks, snow polo, intriguing museums,

designer shops, grand hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants—not to mention local wines, cheeses and chocolates—

await. Indeed, exploring this alpine nation framed by Germany, Austria, Lichtenstein, Italy and France dips into varied

histories distinguished not only by language—French here, German there—but also by food.

151302BDY_r2_Refined guts 17th_winter 17.indd 4 11/3/17 10:20 PM

Winter 2017 / 2018 | LIFE REFINED | 5


6 | LIFE REFINED | Winter 2017 / 2018

ZURICH

While it’s tempting upon landing to head for the hills, Zurich’s water music invites lingering. Lake Zurich laps the city’s shoreline, the

Limmat River sings through downtown and tinkling fountains grace many squares.

Recuperate from traveling at either the lakeside Baur au Lac, an elegant grande dame downtown, or the art-filled, castle-like Dolder

Grand, overlooking lake and city; both have Michelin-starred restaurants. Refresh yourself by soaking in the views from the rooftop pool

at the Irish-Roman baths at Thermalbad & Spa Zurich, located in the old Hurlimann Brewery.

Zurich blends old-world charm with new-world verve, making it easy to spend a day walking through the centuries. Wander through

the historic Old Town and Niederdorf quarter, pausing to climb the 187 steps rising from the nave up 11th-century Grossmünster’s

Karlsturm tower for the views. Nearby Fraumünster Church earns a nod for its stained-glass windows by Chagall.

Take a break at Conditorei Schober, renowned for its thick, rich hot chocolate and a menu blending sweet and savory treats. Equally

appealing is the warren of rooms on three floors inside the 14th-century building with a neo-baroque interior design.

Segue to the new world along Bahnhofstrasse, one of the world’s best luxury shopping promenades situated in the heart of Zurich.

Stop for an afternoon pick-me-up at Café Sprüngli on Paradeplatz, known for its irresistible Luxemburgerli macarons. At sunset, gaze

over Old Town and the lake to the Alps while sipping cocktails in the Jules Verne Panorama Bar.

Fine art and fine food collide at Kronenhalle, an institution famed equally for the master works adorning its walls—Chagall, Braque,

Spread: St Moritz. Photos by Filip Zuan



Miró, Matisse—and the classic Swiss cuisine served. Open since 1924, this famous establishment has welcomed renowned guests like

Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Pablo Picasso and Richard Strauss.

Or relax over traditional Swiss cuisine in the Baur au Lac’s cozy pop-up Chalet au Lac. Open only during the month of December, the

wooden chalet features a three-course menu including raclette, fondue, festive cocktails and mulled wine. Call ahead to reserve a space

or book the entire chalet for up to 50 guests.

ST. MORITZ

Roads span the country, but another thing that unites its numerous towns and cities is an excellent train system. We suggest booking

one for the 3.5-hour journey to St. Moritz.

In 1864, Johannes Badrutt, proprietor of the aptly named Badrutt’s Palace, promised four English guests that if they didn’t enjoy the

hotel in winter, he’d reimburse their travel costs. They came, returned tanned and relaxed, and St. Moritz has been an ultra-glam winter

destination since, drawing A-listers as much for the skiing and tony shops as for the snow polo and horse racing on the frozen lake.

Four non-contiguous alpine areas rim Lake St., but sun-soaked Corviglia, site of the 2017 Alpine World Cup Championships, rises

directly above the village. Even better, lifts open at 7:45 a.m., and few people rise early enough to enjoy the freshly groomed slopes. For

optimal cruising, consider renting or purchasing a pair of exclusive Zai St. Moritz skis.


8 | LIFE REFINED | Winter 2017 / 2018 Zermatt. Photo by Hawkeye!Pawell Killinski



ZERMATT

Recover from your adventures in St. Moritz with a gentle

day aboard the Glacier Express, one of the world’s most

scenic excursion trains. During the seven-hour journey

between St. Moritz and Zermatt, the train crosses 291

bridges, including the iconic Landwasser Viaduct,

passes through 91 tunnels and chugs over the Oberalp

Pass, where the summit snow often approaches 40 feet

in depth. En route, you’ll gaze over cross-country skiers

and snow-shoers, sgraffito-decorated houses, ancient

churches, frozen ice veils and castle ruins.

The Matterhorn looms over Zermatt, a traditional

village comprising stone-and-wood chalets roofed with

slate, sprawling along a narrow valley floor wrapped

by mountains on three sides. Because cars and

combustible engines are prohibited, the quiet buzz of

electric vehicles replaces the vroom of motors.

For a chic experience, check into The Mont Cervin

Palace, which houses the Michelin-starred Capri

restaurant. For a less formal vibe, opt for the lovely

Hotel Firefly, a Small Luxury Hotels member.

A visit to Zermatt wouldn’t be complete without

acknowledging its mountain climbing heritage. Step

through the downtown glass pavilion and descend to the

Matterhorn Museum, a recreated underground village

that brings Zermatt’s impressive alpine heritage to life.

More than 70 lifts and 220 miles of trails etch

Zermatt’s countless peaks, and that doesn’t include

innumerable acres of off-piste terrain. Gondolas, trams

and a cog railway make it easy for non-skiers to ascend

various mountains, including the oxygen-deprived,

12,740-foot Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.

From the observation platform, the unrivaled

panorama over Switzerland, Italy and France takes in

28 summits rising higher than 13,000 feet, including

the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. Allow the better part of

one blue-sky day to schuss the slopes here, and include

a dip over to lift- and trail-connected Cervinia, Italy.

Europe’s longest ski run, an 11-mile thigh-burner,

Have the hotel concierge make lunch reservations

on the club-level terrace at El Paradiso, a tucked-away

treasure overlooking St. Moritz and the Engadine Valley.

It’s accessible via skiing or lift-assisted hiking. Bask in

the sunshine, lounge on a sheepskin-lined bench and

begin with a platter of local air-dried meats, cheeses,

salami and Parma ham. Follow that with pizzoccheri,

a hearty local casserole of potatoes and cheese with

pancetta and chard, and end with the absolutely sinful

vanilla cream pastry.

Repent by soaring to the heavens on a tandem hang

glider or paraglider. No experience is necessary; a

pilot maneuvers the craft, and you can simply enjoy an

eagle’s-eye view over St. Moritz.

Free skiers and snowboarders favor the Corvatsch

slopes, home to one of the Alps’ biggest snow parks.

Everyone goes on Friday evenings, when Corvatsch

opens Switzerland’s longest illuminated trail to the public.

On any other night, you can have the 4.2-mile groomed

corduroy run to yourself with a private VIP booking.

Off the mountain, careen down the Olympia Bob

Run, the world’s oldest and only natural-ice track still

hosting international races. Or slip away from the glitz

and grandeur on some of the region’s 218 miles of

maintained Nordic and winter-walking trails. Break for

lunch, or steal away for an overnight, at Lej da Staz, a

secluded and cozy 10-room lodge with a well-respected

restaurant and a massive sun-soaked terrace.

Top international luxury stores line downtown

streets, including posh skiwear shops Moncler, Bogner,

KJUS and JOY. Before starting a shopping spree,

refuel with an Engadine nut cake, a local specialty,

at Hauser Confiserie, established here in 1892. This

classic confection dates back more than 100 years and

features chopped walnuts, cream and caramel.

Make reservations for dinner at IGNIV by Andreas

Caminada at Badrutt’s Palace, created by the three-star

Michelin chef, before sipping Champagne and dancing

until dawn at the posh King’s Club.


10 | LIFE REFINED | Winter 2017 / 2018 Lucerne. Photo by Lin Mei

Photo by Florian Van DuynLandwasser Viaduct



Across the river, the Rosengart Collection houses

25 works by Paul Klee, and 32 paintings and 100

other works by Pablo Picasso, as well as pieces by

Cézanne, Monet, Matisse and other significant classic

modernists. If Angela Rosengart is around, she might

share anecdotes about her friendship with Picasso.

For a special treat, book a night atop Mount Pilatus

in the 1890 belle époque Hotel Pilatus-Kulm. Rising

nearly 7,000 feet above Lucerne, rooted in myth and

legend, delivering panoramic views splashed with lakes

and edged by craggy peaks, Pilatus has wooed dragon

slayers, adventure seekers and even royalty.

As you ascend via a two-stage gondola and a tram,

the vistas open, but it’s not until the summit saddle,

etched between two peaks, that the 360-degree

panorama encompassing snow-capped peaks and the

entirety of Lake Lucerne is revealed.

When the last day-trippers descend, the chiaroscuro

sunset is yours. Golden light illuminates peaks, pastels

set the sky aflame, distant summits glow and shadows

dance on the lake far, far below.

And that’s just the early show.

Return to the terrace after dinner. With the moon as

a spotlight, the stars waltz with the wind in a dazzling,

mesmerizing grand finale.

ebbs and flows from Klein Matterhorn to the village. In

Furi, collapse on the terrace of Zum See, in a 350-year-

old chalet accessible on skis or via hiking trails, and

enjoy a siesta after devouring the croûte au fromage

with bacon and tomatoes.

Call it a day at Hennu Stall, an especially lively spot

near the base of the Furi-Zermatt slope, where dancing

on the tables is a possibility and Jägermeister shots

served on an old ski are a must.

Take a morning to rise early and catch the first cog

railway train to Gornergrat’s summit for first tracks and

perhaps a few runs in the tobogganing park. When

hunger strikes, aim for a terrace seat at Chez Vrony on

Rothorn and drink in the views while savoring organic

dried beef and house-made sausages. Non-skiers can

hike here from the train’s Sunnegga Station. Another

alluring spot on Rothorn is Findlerhof, famous for its

five-hour-braised lamb shank. When the legs beg

for mercy, descend to Cervo, a happening après-ski

lounge with a grand Matterhorn view.

LUCERNE AND MOUNT PILATUS

Like Zurich, Lucerne invites lingering, not only to

appreciate the views over mountain-ringed Lake

Lucerne but also to delve into its heritage, culture

and sights. The classic lakefront Palace Luzern puts

city highlights within footsteps. The new contemporary

Hotel Bürgenstock, part of the Bürgenstock Resort,

delivers spectacular views over the lake and mountains

from its elevated location.

Wander through Old Town, where frescoes and

painted façades adorn many buildings. The iconic

14th-century wooden Chapel Bridge angles across

the Reuss River. Inside, the Dance of Death panels,

painted between 1626 and 1635, underscore that no

one escapes fate. Along with the adjacent, octagonal

stone water tower and the four Musegg towers that are

open to the public, the Zytturm houses the city’s oldest

clock, which is part of the city’s original fortifications.

Photo by Dave Ruck

LR


Documents

LIFE REFINED - Maine Travel Maven...LIFE REFINED living life well winter 2017 / 2018 ... designer shops, grand hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants—not to mention local wines,