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Liberating Style: Sept.2010 Mini Mag

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Starring Rachel Stewart!

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A MINI ISSUE

APERFECTLOOKPage 14

hen preparing for this issue I thought one thing, it had to be light and yet it had to be jam packed. How would my Creative Director and I go about making that happen? It wasn’t that we didn’t have the talent, quite the contrary, with Steven D. Hill coming back, and new comer ByronGeorge both bringing us fashion forward looks for fall, with “Pocket Lint Couture” and

“White Out”, I knew we had something great in the works and there was nothing to worry about at all.

Plus having Rachel Stewart grace our cover for her feature, “A Southern Jewel”, made things even better. We had a loose theme, anything fashion forward, and paired with our light page count, any kind of fashion that depended on being organic and good for the earth. That’s where our two Fashion Editors came into play by finding two labels, Calista and Brigid Catiis, which sell fashion for the conscious buyer. Then there’s Mae, of Natural Chica.com, who celebrates everything natural when it comes to hair and styling on her blog. Finally we close with “A Potential Idea” from Dawn Oroko, an art editorial about a woman trying to find herself, which I think is a good message for the month, if not all year long, really.

While I thought that pulling off a mini issue would be a breeze, basing on the fact that we do 100 pages or more usually, I found that focusing content and getting the best out a feature is a challenge, but more than worth it in the end. Does this mean the end of an LSMAG 100+ page count? Of course not, you’ll have to stick around for part two of our big fashion issue due out next month to see that. Until then, add us on Facebook, follow our tweets on Twitter, and stay glamorous! -AngelaClay,EditorinChief

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Angela ClayEditor in Chief

Creative DirectorJoseph Young

Fashion EditorArushi Khosla

Fashion EditorAlexis J.

Beauty EditorSareta Gabriel

Editor at LargeSteven D. Hill

ContributorsByronGeorgeDawn OkoroTraci Moore

Clancy MclainRandy A.AngeerLe Muah

Ask Wendy ColumnistWendy Poindexter

04

14 A PERFECT PAIR: The duo behind label Calista

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EDITORIAL: Steven D. Hill is back with a look at denim and couture

30COVER STORY: A Southern Jewel - jeweler and artist Rachel Stewart

LSMAG

EDITORIAL: “White Out” by ByronGeogre

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52 A BLOGGING BEAUTY: We sit down with Mae, of NaturalChica.com

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A GOOD LOOK: Brigid Catiis is a label you need to get to know now

A POTENTIAL IDEA: Artist Dawn Okoro returns with a collection of her past artwork in a art editorial about finding yourself

IN THIS ISSUE

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Photographer: Stevin D. HillStyling, Hair and Make-up: Traci Morore

Talent: Clancy Mclain

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{FASHION}

Brigitte Kum and Sofia Shannon, the creative heads behind Calista, pair their differing styles together to create a collection of some of the most wearable pieces around. Thanks to Brigitte, their line of

unstructured dresses and tops is an ode to menswear and androgyny

which remains the inspirational fo-cal point in their vision behind the

Calista label. While Brigitte is big on the edge, Calista co-designer, Sofia, veers towards the more feminine. The pair currently reside and work in New York City, and our Fashion Editor Arushi Khosla the scoop on just how the creative process behind

their RTW line works.

APERFECTPAIR

Designing a collection is definetly a more than one person job. The

beauty of it is when two ideas make something everyone will love

By Arushi Khosla Photos courtesy of Calista

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LS: How did you two meet?B&S: We interned together at Three As Four. It was our first taste of the New York City fash-ion scene, really- it was a lot of fun!

LS: In what way did your upbring-ing and your diverse backgrounds affect your design aesthetic?BK: I grew up in a very grounded, average, suburban setting. I can’t honestly say that my upbringing and childhood directly influenced my style. I think my style has always been intrinsically dictated by my curiosity of what is outside of the norm - the more color-ful aspects of culture. I credit my mother for influencing my taste for high quality and value.SS: I grew up in a very creatively inclined and laidback environment in Buenos Aires, Argentina. My mother is an artist who remains a key influencer in my personal style and aesthetic. She is the absolute definition of casual elegance, but with a sharp twist. What I love deeply about my Argentine culture is how women have a special abil-ity to look natural and effortlessly chic. It’s always super spontaneous and carefree.

LS: What inspires you? Movies, TV, pop culture in general, blog-gers, magazines, artists, celebrities?B&S: Like everyone else in today’s age, we consume copious amounts of media but we can’t say that a particular source has greatly inspired us. Our take on inspira-tion is that it comes from many

“Our take on inspiration is that it comes from many sources - images, hip girls on the street, a trip to Uruguay, etc.- which are collected and rendered by the sub-

consciously and subtly translated into the lines of what we create.”

- Brigitte & Sofia

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Winter 2010 looks from Calista’s newest line. Cover page and left: Jackie Lace Dress, $337.50. Above: Brigette Fur Qultied Jacket, $506 worn over Joan Lace Tank, $94.50. Make-up by Eliven Quiros with hair by Tara Jean.

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Above: Marion Biker Jacket, $495, paired with Margot Lace tee, $121.50 and Lulu Fur Necklace, $112.50.

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sources - images, hip girls on the street, a trip to Uruguay, etc.- which are collected and rendered by the subconsciously and subtly translated into the lines of what we create. With that view in mind, inspiration is not something that is actively sought, but something that needs to be channeled be-cause it is already present around you, in whichever form.

LS: According to you are the three most stylish cities?B&S: We’re biased to our home-towns- New York, Buenos Aires and of course, Paris.

LS: Where do you see Calista go-ing in the future?B&S: We want to expand and reach more people, but we still will always stay consistent in designing for the Calista girl. We really try to stay in the moment and focus on one season at a time.

LS: So who is the Calista girl?B&S: The Calista girl is intelli-gent, sexy and strong. Her curios-ity about life makes her a natural traveler and explorer. She wants to experience the most best and most beautiful of what all is out there, whatever life has to offer. Her passion for music, art and phi-losophy impacts who she is as she evolves through time, but is never lost from the past; it is always with her; inventing and reinventing. She is the source of inspiration.

Above: Marion Biker Jacket, $495, paired with Margot Lace tee, $121.50 and Lulu Fur Necklace, $112.50.

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Above: Joan Lace Tank, $94.50. Left: Natalie wears a Jamie Gingham, also available in pink and hazel, $83. Inda Scallop mini, $225.

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All Clothing by CalistaPhotographer: Yudi Ela Echevarria &

Erika HokansonHair: Tara Jean

Make-up: Eliven QuirosModel:Natalie Suarez,

Photogenics LA

LS: Keeping that in mind, who are the top three women you’d like to see in your creations?B&S: We don’t have specific pub-lic figures or celebrities in mind. We prefer to see real women in our clothes.

LS: What happens when the two of you have design ideas that are diametrically opposing?B&S: We have worked together for a while now and the reason we do what we do so well is because of our subtle differences in taste. We only agree about half the time, the other half we either let in small ideas from one side or meet in the middle. Meeting in the mid-dle is where our creativity comes from because it is when both our imaginations come into play and form one piece collectively.

You can find out more about Calista and shop for their pieces at :calista-label.com

Above: Joan Lace Tank, $94.50. Left: Natalie wears a Jamie Gingham, also available in pink and hazel, $83. Inda Scallop mini, $225.

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OUT

Photographer: Randy A.Model: Angeer

Hair: ByronGeorgeMua: Le Muah

Fashion Styling & Concept Director: ByronGeorge

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Photographer: Randy A.Model: Angeer

Hair: ByronGeorgeMua: Le Muah

Fashion Styling & Concept Director: ByronGeorge

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ASOUTHERNJEWEL

By Angela ClayPhotos Rachel Stewart and

Chris Charles of Creative Silence

{COVER}

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{COVER}

hen I found Miss Rachel Stewart I felt like she was the type of person who was approach-able and would share her knowl-edge with anyone.

I went back and researched other articles and blogs that have been written on her and one thing stuck out the most to me; she considered herself a “Country Girl”. This made me stop and think… most people think of country as cowboy boots, farms and hee hawing, but that wasn’t Rachel and further more it wasn’t how I saw myself. When I interviewed her and read various quotes she has made, it evoked many memories in me about how I saw myself as a country girl; living in rural Louisa County, Virginia and stepping out in the 90’s with my African print T-shirts and all of my black, yellow, green and red accessories. Though many thought that I and my friend were some kind of strange fruit we kept a twist to our style and that is exactly what Rachel does. Through her art, designing of new and eclectic jewelry, she keeps inspiring and bring-ing back those fond recollections of long ago. So from one bucolic girl to the next always stay country sweet but city fresh... I present Rachel Stewart.

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LS: You are very talented and deeply involved with many artistic projects, could you tell us about some of them? RS: Right now, I am focusing on marketing and developing my jew-elry line, I always consider myself a painter, and jewelry is just an extension of that.

LS: I was thinking if I ever moved North Carolina would be high on the list. What is the art and fash-ion scene like where you are? RS: Well North Carolina is not known for being the trendiest place BUT we have a large under-ground art, fashion and music that have been gaining momentum over the past 10 years. Art is a very important part of North Car-olina, and there is no shortage of galleries, museums and boutiques, all we need is a stronger represen-tation of black women artists.

LS: With technology on the rise do you feel that art galleries are dying and people are moving away from the traditional gathering? Does the internet have a negative or positive influence on art? RS: There are some things that will never go away, no matter how much technology is available. For instance the use of libraries and

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{COVER}A collection of Rachel’s art. Below: SPACE GUMBO 5x6 ft. Left top: SMASHING ATOMS 4x5ft. Left below: HIDDEN GALAXY 5x6 ft.

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A collection of Rachel’s art. Below: SPACE GUMBO 5x6 ft. Left top: SMASHING ATOMS 4x5ft. Left below: HIDDEN GALAXY 5x6 ft.

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paper books have declined over the years so has the need to travel to the great museums to see mas-terpieces. But there is always the need for the physical presence of art and artist because the com-puter screen can never evoke in you the feeling you get from see-ing a great piece of art in person, great art evokes feelings and that can’t be duplicated on a screen or from a printer. The web has had a positive influence, how else could people know about artist like me? Or get the opportunity to pur-chase art with a click of a button? Or even get a chance to communi-cate with an artist you admire?

LS: What are some of your future goals that you have in the works? RS: In the future I want a gallery of my own, it will be a gallery of music, art and photography, and unlike galleries that I’ve dealt with in the past, I won’t ask you where you have been seen, or who you’ve had a show wit. If your work is good, I wanna expose it, and I won’t take 30% of your money.

LS: Are you self taught when it comes to your art and jewelry making, or did you attend an edu-cational institute? RS: I’m self taught in every way, I never got any formal training and I’m glad I didn’t, my work would not be what it is now, it may have been better or maybe worse…at least now It’s ALL ME…good or bad…lol, which is a good thing!

LS: What has been your favorite project to date in your career? RS: The best thing I’ve done is donate a piece of art to the Works of Heart auction for AIDS research that takes place yearly in Raleigh NC, I donated one of my favorite pieces and I plan to be a part of it every year.

LS: Did I leave anything out you feel is important?RS: Hmmm... if you have an idea, thought or inclination to do something, DO IT, don’t seek anybody’s permission or look for approval, the most famous women in the world NEVER did.

Find more info on Rachel Stewart online at :rachelstewart.bigcartel.com

See more Creative Silence at :csphoto-design.com

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AGOODLOOK

By Alexis J.Photos courtesy of Brigid Catiis

{FASHION}

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When I hear “eco-friendly clothing,” the first thing that comes to my mind isn’t exactly stylish clothes – it’s more like drab, bleak clothes that only eco activists with zero fashion

sense would wear. Which is why I was excited to learn about Brigid Catiis,

every piece of clothing in her label is made from recycled, reclaimed or

sustainable fabrics which means that each and every one of her gorgeous

pieces is 100% green.

Raissa Gerona, the talented designer behind all the fabulosity co-founded the label with her boyfriend Damien Sritapan(who is her business part-ner as well the Creative Director of the brand). The label is named after Raissa’s late grandmother who not only greatly influenced the designer

but also taught her to follow her heart and her dreams which is what got her

to where she is now.

Launched in 2008, the label iaims to “Do Good.” In June 2009, they started using sustainable fabrics

(which were made with natural and renewable fibers, without pesticides

and didn’t require much land or energy to produce) that were locally made in Long Beach, California. And as if they aren’t already doing more than

their bit for our environment, the label also donates 5% of its total earnings to

non-profit organizations.

I was lucky enough to have a chance to sit down and talk Raissa and here

is an excerpt for your benefit.

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Looks from the Brigid Catiis Fall line. Previous Page: STRIPED SKIRT, $68. TUXEDOED JACKET ,$102. RACERBACK TANK TOP $40.

This Page:STRIPED TANK TOP,$48.LEATHERED SKIRT, $80.

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LS: Why did you choose to be a designer, did you always want to? BC: I didn’t always want to be a de-signer, actually. I studied law in college and thought I was going to be a lawyer my whole life. Fashion really entered my life through vintage shopping and then I gradually started remaking vintage clothes and designing right after college. I chose to become a designer because it’s fulfilling.

LS: When did you come upon the realiza-tion that you’re fashion person, and essen-tially, a designer?BC: I think right after college. Again, I began my “journey” with fashion simply through vintage and thrift shipping. I became obsessed with it. Then, when I started to re-work the pieces and make them my own, that’s when I real-ized that this was a job that I could really do.

LS: Is there a specific age group of fash-ionable woman you are trying to cater? BC: Not really, I mostly see women in their early 20’s and 30’s wearing Brigid Catiis.

LS: How would you describe your design aesthetic? Has changed it changed at all? BC: I think my aesthetic does change over time and grows from one season to the next. But at the end of the day, my aesthet-ic will always be fun and sexy, with prints included and wearable pieces that can tran-

scend seasons. I just want clients to feel like themselves in the pieces- confident, independent and know what they want.

LS: How did you start in this industry? Do you have any formal training? BC: I started with vintage shopping then I became a vintage buyer for a store in NYC. I did this for about 1 1/2 years until I started my own business. I did not have any formal training.

LS: Do you think going to school for designing and receiving formal training is important to excel in the business later on? BC: That’s tough question because I don’t have formal training and I’m still able to design. I think it’s helpful because it teaches you the basics as oppose to having to learn everything for your-self, which personally, I don’t mind. In all honesty, I think that whether or not you go to

school, you can never be taught how to be a designer, because that’s all personal, or how to run your business. Both of these, to me, are instinctual.

LS: But do you think fashion is something that can be taught interested people? BS: Again, a yes and no answer. Yes, be-cause you can be taught how to sew, make a pattern, etc. No because designing comes from within- not a teacher or a book. It’s your perception, that can never be learned.

“Fashion really entered my life through vintage shopping and then I gradually started

remaking vintage clothes and designing right after college. I chose to become a designer

because it’s fulfilling.”- Raissa Gerona

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CRISSED & CROSSED DRESS, $94.

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FLARED SHORTS, $68. CROPPED TUXEDO JACKET, $96.

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FLARED ROMPER, $85.

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BANDED DRESS, $85.

Creative Director: Raissa GeronaArt Director: Erek VinluanProducer:Damien SritapanPhotographer: Cel JarvisStylist: Kecia Clark for Celes-tine AgencyHair/Make-Up: Juanita Lyon for Celestine AgencyTalent: Rachel Prescott at Vision Models

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LS: If you had a mission statement that you been following, what would it be? BC: Just do it! I know it’s Nike’s slogan, but I use it all the time. You won’t know unless you just try and make it happen. I think half the battle is just convincing yourself to try something or to do some-thing. After that, you’re committed.

LS: What kind of woman do you think-would wear a Brigid Catiis piece? BC: A woman who’s smart, confident, independent, worldly, thoughtful and just knows herself and what she wants!

LS: What has been the best part of being a designer throughout your carreer? BC: Designing. It’s super fun and even more fun when you see it on people!

LS: What, according to you, has made the collections such a hit with people? BC: I think simply because it’s wearable and relatable, fun, fresh and fashionable.

LS: What do you think makes Brigid Catiis different from other brands/labels? BC: Quite a few things. Firstly, we’re an eco-friendly company. We use vintage and organic materials. Secondly, we’re in tune with what our clients want. So, like them, we evolve, but always stay true to who we are. And lastly, we’re not afraid to use lots of prints and color!

LS: Can you give our readers and insight into what a day in the life of a super busy, uber successful designer is like?

BC: No, I can’t! laughs I’m super busy, but not uber successful! But yes, my day is crazy. I get up at 6:30 am EVERYDAY. I start my day with coffee and emails. I then usually have to go to Downtown to get samples, fabrics, buttons, work on produc-tion, meet with stylists, work on the blog, and the list goes on and on. From 11-4, I’m literally running around. By 4:30, I’m home, shipping and writing final emails. I try to be done by 6:30, but that usually doesn’t happen!

LS: Working in the fashion industry is pretty risky. One minute you’re in, the next minute you’re out. Did this have any effect on your choice to be a designer? BC: No. I think with all businesses and professions, you just have to be active, meaning, constantly working so that people are aware of who you are, actively growing the company so that you’re designs start to evolve, actively in the media, actively in good stores so people know where to find your stuff, etc. It’s a lot of work, but if it’s something you love, then it’s worth it.

LS: Any parting words of advice for the novice designers reading? BC: YES! It is a lot, a lot, a lot of work to be a designer. Always remember the good ‘ole saying, you have to love what you do. It takes so much out of you and the only way you will continue to move forward, is if you truly love designing and fashion. Without it, it’s easy to give up.

brigidcatiis.com

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A BLOGGING

BEAUTYAt one time if you had dreadlocks, an afro, twist or braids no one in the corporate world would hire you. If you had the pleasure of getting hired you would have to adhere to the company policy of sleek and “well maintained” hairstyles. Yes, all of this is about hair! If a person was born with a birth defect people would be understanding. Now

By Angela Clay Photos courtesy of Naturalchica.com

{BEAUTY}

LS: What made you want to go natural? NC: My two younger sisters were my initial inspiration to make the journey towards having natural hair. They had started their own transi-tions to natural hair long before I did, and it was

if you speak about African American hair it becomes a touchy subject. What would happen if there was no Madame CJ Walker to create relaxers, then what? What if the straightening comb was unheard of? Natu-rally we would have to make do with our nat-ural tresses. As the founder of naturalchica.com, Mae, runs a rapidly growing website that discusses everything about natural hair and beauty. She educates and encourages women who want to let go and liberate their strands. If you have been thinking about being a part of a growing movement read on and be encouraged to take the plunge.

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amazing to see how healthy their hair looked once they stopped using relaxers. When I told some of my friends (who were natural) about my interest in going down that path, they were eager to share with me all of the wonderful resources online geared towards women like me who wanted to make the transition. I was so encouraged when I saw the beautifully diverse textures and styles that were abundant online and couldn’t wait for my own journey to begin!

LS: Why do you think so many women are leaning that way right now? NC: This is a hard ques-tion to answer because in the many emails that I get through my site, you would be surprised at the pleth-ora of reasons women give for going natural! For some, they believe relax-ers are too expensive and want to save money by going natural. For others, they are purely curious about seeing their natural texture after not seeing it from the time they were little girls. However, the most recurring reason I see is that relaxers are damaging to their scalp and going natural is the only way they can save the hair on their head. Whatev-er their initial reasons were, in the end, many women express the empowerment they feel by embracing their natural tresses.

LS: For me it was and has been an emotional journey why do you think it’s that way? NC: Until I went through the journey myself, it was hard for me to understand why a tran-sition to natural hair could be such an emo-tional experience for many. One of the most

important lessons I learned in my experience is that you can’t allow what other people say and do, dictate how you view yourself. I can still remember many of the comments directed towards me, insinuating that I was more attractive with “long, pretty hair” and what was I thinking by chopping off all my hair leaving me with this “bush”. In the be-ginning, these comments hurt me to the core and really did a number to my self-esteem.

At the same time, these remarks eventually also led me to realize that as long as I was happy and felt confident in my own decision, then it really didn’t matter what others had to say. This way of thinking perme-ated throughout other areas of my life and really helped to grow my confidence in who God made me to be and gave me the strong desire to help uplift others!

LS: Tell us about your blog?NC: My blog, NaturalChica.com, began a little over a year ago as what I thought to be a simple way of documenting my transition to natural hair. I thought it would be great for me to keep track of my hair growth as sort of a “self-encouragement” tool through-out my journey. It honestly shocked me when people outside of my friends started read-ing my blog and would tell me that my posts had encouraged them to begin their own transitions. From that point, I decided that I wanted my site to be a place where people could find encouragement in their own journeys. The site is always evolving, but you

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{BEAUTY}

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can always find stories of those who have recently gone natural or have been natural for years, profiles of businesses that cater to natural hair & natural products, as well as posts of inspiration and encourage-ment. I still chronicle my journey from time to time on the site, but my YouTube channel (Nikkimae2003) and Facebook Fan Page (NaturalChica) are places where I really keep up-to-date with that now.

LS: What do you do in your free time? NC: Besides the blog, a lot of my energy goes into maintaining my YouTube chan-nel (Nikkimae2003). My vlog acts as a partner to my blog where I can give visual demonstrations on how to care for natural hair. However, it also acts as a window to the other passions in my life, which in-clude singing, photography and education.

LS: The future for Naturalchica.com...NC: I really consider it a blessing to see how much the site has grown over the past year and my main goal for the future of my site is that it will always be centered on providing useful information and en-couragement to those who stop by!

Check out Mae’s blog at: Naturalchica.comcom

With her blog NaturalChica.com Mae chronicles her life and hair styles, as well as opening the blog up to users to

voice their own opinion about hair and fashion.

click here to view Mae!

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{ARTISTS}

My artwork is about people watching and how lived experiences shape myself and those around me. “Potential Ideal” is a painted

narrative about a young woman who is trying understand who she is, in a world that seems to be telling her who she should be. To create image sources for my paintings I photographed a model in my studio in some of her favorite outfits. I also staged poses of her holding

counterfeit designer handbags.

It is of great importance to this young woman that she attain the per-ception of glamour. One of the ways she tries to attain this percep-tion is through the use of luxury items. Luxury items are a way to

send and receive social signals. In many cases, they are used give the perception of having disposable income.

For adults and teens brand names are a way to get into a circle. When I was in middle school, if you didn’t wear popular name brand jeans, you were a nobody. Most of us strive for individuality, but we end up becoming knockoffs of each other. Even though luxury

items can get you into the circle, that perceived content is short lived. Eventually, a person’s true personality has to stand on its own.

APOTENIALIDEA

An art editorial and foreword by

Dawn Okoro

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View more of Dawn’s art at :dawnokoro.com

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