Lectur es Win eTastings Vor träge We inprob en...10 :00 a.m. Opening remark 10:30 a.m. Banquet Halls Lecture Willi Klinger (CEO ÖWM , Wien) The Ten Commandments of Marketing Riesling

LecturesWineTastings

VorträgeWeinproben

26–27 MAY 2014SCHLOSS REINHARTSHAUSENRHEINGAU

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Content | Inhalt

Program Schedule

Wilhelm Weil 8|9 Opening Remark | Grußworte

Willi Klinger 11 The Ten Commandments of Marketing Riesling15 Die Zehn Gebote des Riesling-Marketings

Wine Tasting I 19 “New World” Rieslings …More Traditional than “Old World” Rieslings? Stuart Pigott Rieslinge aus der „Neuen Welt“– traditioneller als Rieslinge aus der

„Alten Welt“?

Prof. Dr. Hans 23 Do We Know the Bacics for the Production of Great RieslingWines?Reiner Schultz 30 Kennen wir die Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Riesling Weine?

Wine Tasting II 40 The “Grand Cru” Couple from VDP.GROSSE LAGE: Giuseppe Lauria Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese

Das „Grand Cru“-Paar: Riesling-Grosse Gewächse und Spätlesen aus VDP.GROSSER LAGE

Panel Discussions 44 The Sommelier’s Experience with RieslingBernd Glauben 46 Riesling am Gast – der Sommelier

Dr. Manfred Stoll 48 Viticultural Strategies to Manipulate Berry Maturation in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling

50 Weinbauliche Strategien zur Verzögerung der Beerenreife bei der Rebsorte Riesling

Wine Tasting III 54 Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: Cornelius und The European Riesling RouteFabian Lange Riesling von Donau, Rhein, Nahe und Mosel:

Die europäische Riesling-Schiene

Prof. Dr. Monika 59 How to Optimize the Alcohol Content of Riesling Wines?Christmann 62 Wie optimiert man den Alkoholgehalt von Rieslingweinen?

Wine Tasting IV 66 Riesling and Aging Potential Caro Maurer MW Riesling und Reifepotential

Dirk Würtz 70 Riesling and the Digital World of Wine75 Riesling und die digitale Weinwelt

81 Lecturers and Moderators93 Winery Profiles

164 Upcoming Events

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ProgramMonday, 26 May 2014

9:30 a.m. Welcome to the International Riesling Symposium 2014.

10:00 a.m. Opening remark

10:30 a.m. Banquet Halls LectureWilli Klinger (CEO ÖWM, Wien)The Ten Commandments of Marketing Riesling

11:30 a.m. Coffee break

11:45 a.m. Event Tent Wine tastingModeration: Stuart Pigott (Journalist, Berlin)„New World“ Rieslings … More Traditional than „Old World“ Rieslings?

1:15 p.m. Lunch

2:00 p.m. Banquet Halls LectureProf. Dr. Hans Reiner Schultz (Director, University Geisenheim)Do We Know the Climatic and Viticultural Basis for the Production of Great Riesling Wines?

3:00 p.m. Coffee break

3:15 p.m. Event Tent Wine tastingModeration: Giuseppe Lauria (Journalist, Wiesbaden)The “Grand Cru” Couple from VDP.GROSSE LAGE: Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese


5:00 p.m. Banquet Halls Panel DiscussionsThe Sommelier’s Experience with RieslingBernd Glauben (hotelier and president of the German “Sommelier Union”, Coburg)Hans Stefan Steinheuer (Steinheuers Restaurant,Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler)Jens Pietzonka (Sommelier, bean &beluga, Dresden)


8:00 p.m. Banquet Halls “Walking Wine Dinner”with chefs de cuisine:Egbert Engelhardt (Consortium, Wiesbaden)Mario Hofmann (Kempinski Hotel Das Tirol, Kitzbühl)Hans Stefan Steinheuer (Steinheuers Restaurant, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler)Felix Hafner (Schloss Reinhartshausen Kempinski,Eltville-Erbach)

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Tuesday, 27 May 2014

9:30 a.m. Banquet Halls LectureDr. Manfred Stoll (University Geisenheim)Viticultural Strategies to Manipulate Berry Maturation in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling

10:30 a.m. Coffee break

10:45 a.m. Event Tent Wine tastingModeration: Cornelius and Fabian Lange (Journalists, Bad Schwalbach and Armsheim)Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route

12:15 p.m. Lunch

1:00 p.m. Banquet Halls LectureProf. Dr. Monika Christmann (University Geisenheim)How to Optimize the Alcohol Content of RieslingWines?


2:15 p.m. Event Tent Wine tastingModeration: Caro Maurer MW (Journalist, Bonn)Riesling and Aging Potential


4:00 p.m. Banquet Halls LectureDirk Würtz (vintner and wine blogger, Gau-Odernheim)Riesling and the Digital World of Wine

5:00 p.m. End of the symposium

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ProgrammMontag, 26.Mai 2014

9.30 Uhr Willkommen zum IRS 2014

10.00 Uhr Grußwort

10.30 Uhr Festsäle VortragWilli Klinger (Geschäftsführer ÖWM, Wien)Die Zehn Gebote des Rieslingmarketings

11.30 Uhr Pause

11.45 Uhr Zelt WeinprobeModeration: Stuart Pigott (Journalist, Berlin)Rieslinge aus der „Neuen Welt“ –traditioneller als Rieslinge aus der „Alten Welt“?

13.15 Uhr Lunch

14.00 Uhr Festsäle VortragProf. Dr. Hans Reiner Schultz (Präsident der Hochschule Geisenheim)Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Rieslingweine

15.00 Uhr Pause

15.15 Uhr Zelt WeinprobeModeration: Giuseppe Lauria (Journalist, Wiesbaden)Das „Grand Cru”-Paar: Riesling-Grosse Gewächse und Spätlesen aus VDP.GROSSER LAGE

16.45 Uhr Pause

17.00 Uhr Festsäle DiskussionRiesling am Gast – Der Sommelier Bernd Glauben (Hotelier und Präsident der Sommelier Union, Coburg)Hans Stefan Steinheuer (Steinheuers Restaurant,Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler)Jens Pietzonka (Sommelier, bean &beluga, Dresden)

18.00 Uhr Pause

20.00 Uhr Festsäle Walking Wine Dinner mit den Köchen: Egbert Engelhardt (Consortium, Wiesbaden)Mario Hofmann (Kempinski Hotel Das Tirol, Kitzbühl)Hans Stefan Steinheuer (Steinheuers Restaurant, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler)Felix Hafner (Schloss Reinhartshausen Kempinski,Eltville-Erbach)

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Dienstag, 27.Mai 2014

9.30 Uhr Festsäle VortragDr. Manfred Stoll (Hochschule Geisenheim)Weinbauliche Strategien zur Verzögerung der Beerenreife bei der Rebsorte Riesling

10.30 Uhr Pause

10.45 Uhr Zelt WeinprobeModeration: Cornelius und Fabian Lange (Journalisten, Bad Schwalbach und Armsheim)Riesling von Donau, Rhein, Nahe und Mosel: Die europäische Riesling-Schiene

12.15 Uhr Lunch

13.00 Uhr Festsäle VortragProf. Dr. Monika Christmann (Hochschule Geisenheim)Wie optimiert man den Alkoholgehaltvon Rieslingweinen?

14.00 Uhr Pause

14.15 Uhr Zelt WeinprobeModeration: Caro Maurer MW (Journalistin, Bonn)Riesling und Reifepotential

15.45 Uhr Pause

16.00 Uhr Festsäle VortragDirk Würtz (Winzer und Weinblogger, Gau-Odernheim)Riesling und die digitale Weinwelt

17.00 Uhr Ende des Symposiums

Wilhelm Weil (Chairman, VDP-Rheingau)

Honored Attendees of the "International Riesling Symposium,"

The first “International Riesling Symposium" (IRS),hosted in the Rheingau back in 2010,proved to be a stunning success. The original idea behind the symposium was simple:to provide Riesling, widely celebrated around the globe as the noblest of white winegrapes, with a platform in its native, German speaking world. And so, on behalf of theVDP-Rheingau, please allow me to welcome you here for this second edition of the IRS.

This symposium is now part of a larger international “Riesling Coalition"– one that alsoincludes the “Riesling Rendezvous" in Seattle and the Australian “Riesling Downunder"in Sydney and Melbourne. These three Riesling symposiums are held on a regular androtating basis in the USA, Australia and Germany.

Thanks to the tremendous dedication of devoted Riesling winegrowers, sommeliers, spe-cialized dealers and, last but not least, the interested media, Riesling's image has under-gone a resplendent Renaissance. Yet this progress also poses a new challenge forRiesling producers: to preserve and protect the sites and terroir that are the cradles ofRiesling. Now is hardly the time to rest on our laurels. Rather, we must forge aheadin the uncompromising pursuit of quality, from the vines and viniculture to the finalpresentation and marketing, all in an effort to solidify and expand Riesling's recentlyreclaimed stature.

Over the next two days, recognized Riesling authorities gathered here will explore thesetopics in open forums and professional tastings. We've scheduled renowned lecturersand moderators to explore issues of relevance, from the vineyard and cellar to themarket and media.

We at VDP-Rheingau consider ourselves very lucky to have garnered the attendanceand participation of colleagues from top wine estates around the world.

And so let us all together express our hope and gratitude for two Riesling-rich days herein the Rheingau. I can think of few places better suited to host such a distinguishedRiesling symposium, since the Rheingau's motto might well be: Rheingau is Riesling andRiesling is Rheingau!

Wilhelm WeilChairman of the VDP-Rheingau

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Opening Remarks

Grusswort

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Wilhelm Weil (Vorsitzender des VDP-Rheingau)

Liebe Teilnehmer am „Internationalen Riesling Symposium“,

im Jahre 2010 hatte das „Internationale Riesling Symposium“ (IRS) hier im Rheingauseine erfolgreiche Premiere. Anstoß dazu gab die Idee, dem Riesling, von vielen undwelt weit als wertvollste Weißwein-Rebsorte gefeiert, an seinem Ursprung, dem deutsch -sprachigen Raum, mit einem Symposium eine große Bühne zu bieten. Und nun kannich Sie im Namen des VDP-Rheingau zum zweiten IRS willkommen heißen.

Das IRS ist heute zusammen mit dem „Riesling Rendezvous“ in Seattle und dem aus-tra lischen „Riesling Downunder“ in Sydney und Melbourne in einer internationalen„Riesling Coalition“ verbunden. Diese drei Riesling-Symposien finden nunmehr drei-jährig alternierend in den USA, Australien und Deutschland statt.

Auf Grund des großen Einsatzes engagierter Riesling-Winzer, Sommeliers, Fach händlerund nicht zuletzt der begleitenden Medien erfährt der Riesling derzeit weltweiteine Renaissance seines strahlenden Images. So muss es heute für die Riesling-Erzeugermehr denn je darum gehen, die Heimatregionen des Rieslings und seine wertvollstenTerroirs zu bewahren. Es ist somit nicht die Zeit, sich auf Erfolgen auszuruhen, viel-mehr gilt es, mit kompromissloser Qualitätsarbeit auf allen Ebenen – von der Rebe überdie Önologie bis hin zu Präsentation und Vermarktung – die wieder er reichte Positiondes Rieslings zu sichern und weiter zu entwickeln.

Darüber wollen wir an den kommenden zwei Tagen des IRS im Kreise anerkannterRiesling-Experten gemeinsam diskutieren und Rieslinge in fachlichen Proben ver-kosten. Namhafte Referenten und Moderatoren werden die Rebsorte Riesling unter denAspekten Weinberg, Keller, Markt und Medien beleuchten.

Wir schätzen uns als VDP-Rheingau sehr glücklich, dass für die fachlichen Wein- proben befreundete Spitzenwinzer aus aller Welt unserer Einladung gefolgt sind.

So wünsche ich uns allen zwei erkenntnisreiche Tage rund um den Riesling. Der Rhein -gau ist als Veranstaltungsort für ein Riesling-Fachsymposium sicher außergewöhnlichprädestiniert, denn für den Rheingau gilt: Rheingau ist Riesling und Riesling istRheingau!

Wilhelm WeilVorsitzender des VDP-Rheingau

Willi Klinger, Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, was invited to reflecton the opportunities and challenges faced in the marketing Riesling wines. However, theeloquent and experienced Klinger was confronted with unexpectedly tough resistance.The title itself might be provocative; why the 10 commandments? And who is actually doingthe commanding? Is there such a thing as Riesling marketing? To consider the marketing ofa single grape variety usually provokes Willi Klinger to react like a red rag being waved at abull. If this is the case, then who is to be in charge of marketing Riesling? After all, there isa current discord in the communication that irritates, rather than informs the consumer inthe already complex issue of Riesling. Is this leading to sheer confusion, rather than showingthe way to Riesling paradise?

In preparation for his lecture, Klinger interviewed experts from around the world. The reactionto the main dilemma faced for Riesling was virtually unanimous. While Riesling is undis-puted as being the world’s finest white grape variety, its image is turbid: wines range fromthe shining heights of absolute world class, down to the rock bottom, cheap and massproduced plonk. So, you ask yourself: can Riesling be considered a consistent type of wine?

At first it makes sense to look at some quantitative data. On the whole, Riesling is the seventhmost planted white grape variety, and in total plantings, it is ranked 18th. According to ananalysis compiled by the University of Adelaide, the global Riesling acreage dropped from52,000 hectares (ha) to 43,000 ha between 1990 and 2000, but rose again between 2000 and2010 to more than 50,000 ha. Approximately 45 percent of Riesling is planted in Germany,and the United States and Australia are ahead of France in second and third place respec-tively. The white grape varieties with the most significant decrease in acreage between 2000and 2010 include Airen, Welschriesling, Trebbiano Toscano, Müller Thurgau, Chenin Blanc,Pedro Ximenez, Semillon, Garnacha Blanca, Kerner, Pinot Blanc, Muscat Ottonel, Silvanerand Scheurebe. Grüner Veltliner also noted a brief period of decrease, but this has sincechanged. The largest increases recorded for the same period are Chardonnay (+53,500ha),Sauvignon Blanc (+45,000 ha), Pinot Gris (+25.000 ha), Verdejo (+12,000 ha), Prosecco/Glera(+11,000 ha), Königsast /Feteasca Regala (+10,000 ha) and Viognier (+8,200 ha). The growthof 7,000 ha for Riesling obviously reflects the trend.

Another factor is the divided image of Riesling. Even though the grape variety characterenjoys high recognition and appreciation in the circle of connoisseurs, this is masked by the

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The Ten Commandments of MarketingRiesling

Willi Klinger

image held by the average consumer, marked by fear, or at the very least uncertainty.The negative feelings are nourished, paradoxically, by a substance that average consumersnormally viewed in a positive light: sugar. The question of the residual sweetness of Rieslingsplits the image up to the point that even connoisseurs become confused. This situation isnot helped when new Riesling producing areas such as Oregon bring mainly sweet Rieslingsonto the market, and therefore reinforce the sweet style image of Riesling in the importantUS market again, while the dry style of Riesling is so dominant in Europe. This threatens thesegment of the great, elegant style of Riesling with natural sweetness, as those connoisseurswho know and appreciate this sublime style of world class wines are in constant decline.At the same time the mass-produced, entry-level medium-sweet style has been riding onthe reputation of Riesling for decades.

Grape varieties do play a major role in wine marketing. However, the variety should never bethe focus alone, as the risk of having interchangeable wines is the greatest danger. The out-come is a downward price spiral, with the situation of Sauvignon Blanc being one example.Therefore, it is vital and positive to support the marketing of Riesling with a strict system ofwine origin that can be traced back to the smallest, most precise vineyard site. Classificationsare also a useful instrument, but this can only come at the end of a structuring development,says Jancis Robinson, “This is fine for the converted, but Riesling as a concept and flavourneeds much more done for it before we get to this. And anyway, sweetness levels are a muchbigger issue than precise provenance”.

As important as the vineyard site of the smallest, highest-quality origin of a top-qualitywine might be, the grape variety, the region of origin and its predominant wine styleare prerequisites to the success of generic wine marketing. Therefore, the most successfulorigin marketing concepts combine the name of the wine region with one or a few clearlydefined wine profiles. The name of the wine-growing area becomes the name of the wine,such as Barolo. This concept offers a clear definition of the style of wine produced.This is the optimum in generic marketing, and Austria has chosen to take the same pathas its Latin counterparts in its on-going “DAC” appellation system. The Wachau wineregion’s three-tier quality wine system introduced in the 1980s, which accounts forthree dry styles of wines, is perfectly in line with this strategy. The crucial factor isthat behind the official appellation systems, lies a network of interbranch organisations(regional and national committees) that structure the wine policy for the particular areaand can generate generally valid rules via the national committee and regulation by theMinister of Agriculture. As long as the nation’s best wine producers become and remainactively involved in the regional committees – ideally holding the majority – can thissystem prove to be more effective than a private association or a system of collective brands.In this way, communication can be planned strategically and marketing between theterritories and the national institutes are interlinked, thus maxi-mising synergies.Nevertheless, if top producers refuse to participate, this system falls into non-effectiveregulation.

Willi Klinger

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The difficulty in Germany lies in the strong federal autonomy of regional states (“Länder”)and therefore, the competence in policy making of umbrella branding is limited. Thisposition is further weakened by the decisive influence of large-scale producers, as well asthe dominance of the German wine cooperatives. Yet there is also cause for optimism.The Riesling is experiencing a worldwide renaissance, with the increasing appreciation andthe subsequent growing demand for high-quality German Riesling on its domestic market asan important prerequisite. However there is a need for improvement in the communicationto the complex issue, because official bodies such as the German Wine Institute cannot usethe communication content of VdP. It is essential that viticultural policy at state and federallevels work together with the GWI, regional wine advertising bodies and the VdP in orderto introduce a common voice of communication. This is most true for the issue of residualsugar, as the rampant uncertainty of the global consumer needs to be dealt with.

Given these difficulties, Californian journalist Dan Berger has worked on a solution of volun-tary labelling with the International Riesling Foundation to create a key of “Riesling TasteProfiles”. The problem here, however, is that the taste boundaries between the four catego-ries of dry, medium dry, medium-sweet and sweet might be in conflict with European Uniondesignation or national legislation. There is still a lot of set-up work needed. The basicidea of the taste sensation is to evaluate the taste profile and style of a wine, formed by anassessment of the interaction between residual sugar, acidity and pH, rather than to judgeit on the analytical value of its residual sugar content alone. The producer can now classifya wine using the IRF summary chart illustrated on the back label: The vector arrow pointstowards the corresponding Riesling taste profile. In the United States, 26 million bottlesalready display this chart on the back label.

Another remarkable Marketing initiative born in the USA started in the “Terroir” wine bar,run by Paul Grieco in New York's East Village in 2008. The “Summer of Riesling” became amajor national event. This was followed by a participation by Austria, Alsace, the Finger Lakesregion and Australia in the 2012 “Summer of Riesling” spectacle. Germany is set to gainthe most from this, especially after the “31 Days of German Riesling” celebration under the“Summer of Riesling” brought the appropriate synergies with it and reinforced Germany'sposition as a world-wide leading Riesling producer.

Rising market opportunities are coming for Riesling in Asia. Despite the fact that Asianmarkets, and especially China, still have a very low consumption of wine per capita with ashare of over 80 percent red wine, the proportion of white wine is expected to rise. More-over, young people are receptive to Western lifestyle and trends, and are enthusiasticallyattending “Wining & Dining” events, and this is happening more and more, even though foodand wine pairing does not form part of the traditional Chinese food ritual. However, becareful! You cannot make the same comparisons of flavours and fruit characters in Asia.There are also a lot of cultural traps when trying to compare, so it is important to proceedwith caution. For the sake of Riesling’s reputation and consumer-friendly information, it is

The 10 Commandments of Marketing Riesling

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imperative to refer to the profound publications available. Two new forthcoming books inEnglish, by means of example, include the “Best White Wine on Earth - The Riesling Book”by Stuart Pigott, and the book on dry Riesling by the American John Haeger, due for releasein 2015.

The main task for the generic marketing of Riesling would be to freshen up the old-fashion-ed image of the grape variety. Young consumers are currently flocking to the Orange andNatural Wines movements, where Riesling hardly plays a role. With Riesling as an example itcould be interesting to find out how much “natural” Fine Wine could ever be without losingits finesse and grandeur. In any case, the key task is to tackle the appeal of Riesling, alongwith its wine-growing areas, with a younger generation in mind. The GWI “Next Generation”initiative, as well as the aforementioned “Summer of Riesling” campaign are certainly stepsin the right direction.

Willi Klinger mag

Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

Willi Klinger

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Der Geschäftsführer der Österreich Wein Marketing GmbH, Willi Klinger, wurde eingeladen,sich unter diesem Arbeitstitel Gedanken über die Chancen und Probleme bei der Vermarktungvon Riesling zu machen. Dabei stieß der sonst so erfahrene und eloquente Klinger auf un-erwartet zähen Widerstand. Schon der Titel macht Probleme: Warum gerade 10 Gebote?Und: Wer gebietet da? Gibt es überhaupt ein Rieslingmarketing, wo doch Rebsortenmarketingfür Klinger normalerweise ein rotes Tuch ist? Und wenn schon: Wer soll für das Riesling -marketing verantwortlich sein? Ist es nicht gerade die Kakophonie in der Kommunikation, dieden Konsumenten bei dem ohnehin schon so komplexen Thema Riesling in tiefste Verwirrungstürzt, anstatt ihm den Weg ins Rieslingparadies zu weisen?

Für seinen Vortrag befragte Klinger Experten aus aller Welt und bekam fast unisono dasRiesling-Hauptdilemma erklärt: Während der Ruf des Rieslings als edelste weiße Rebsorte derWelt unbestritten ist, bleibt das Image der Rieslingweine ein höchst verworrenes. Von denlichten Höhen absoluter Weltklasse bis in die finsteren Keller der billigen Massenproduktionreicht das Erscheinungsbild dieser Kategorie, sodass man sich fragen muss: Ist Riesling alsdurchgehender Weintyp überhaupt fassbar?

Dazu helfen zunächst einige quantitative Überlegungen. Insgesamt liegt der Riesling unterallen Rebsorten weltweit an der 18. Stelle, unter den weißen Sorten am siebenten Platz.Laut einer Analyse der Universität Adelaide ging die Welt-Rieslingfläche zwischen 1990 und2000 von 52.000 ha auf 43.000 ha zurück, stieg aber zwischen 2000 und 2010 wieder aufüber 50.000 ha. Davon fallen ca. 45 Prozent auf Deutschland. Aber schon auf Platz 2 und 3liegen die USA und Australien, noch vor Frankreich. Die prominentesten Verlierer bei derAnbaufläche waren bei den weißen Sorten zwischen 2000 und 2010 u.a. Airen,Welschriesling, Trebbiano Toscano, Müller-Thurgau, Chenin Blanc, Pedro Ximenez, Semillon,Garnacha Blanca, Kerner, Pinot Blanc, Muscat Ottonel, Silvaner und Scheurebe. Auch derGrüne Veltliner hatte in diesem Zeitraum etwas verloren, legt aber seither wieder zu. Diestärksten Zuwächse verzeichneten im selben Zeitraum Chardonnay (+53.500 ha), SauvignonBlanc (+45.000 ha), Pinot Gris (+25.000 ha), Verdejo (+12.000 ha), Prosecco (+11.000 ha),Königsast /Feteasca Regala (+10.000 ha) und Viognier (+8.200 ha). Aber auch Riesling liegtmit einem Plus von 7.000 ha offensichtlich im Trend.

Eine andere Sache ist das gespaltene Riesling-Image, wenn neben der hohen Anerkennungund Wertschätzung für die besten Sortenvertreter in Kennerkreisen die Gefühlslage des

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Die zehn Gebote des Rieslingmarketings

Willi Klinger

Durchschnittskonsumenten zutage tritt. Und diese ist bei Riesling geprägt von Angst oderzumindest Unsicherheit. Die negativen Gefühle nähren sich paradoxer Weise an einerSubstanz, die für Otto Normalverbraucher normalerweise positiv besetzt ist: Zucker. DieFrage der Süße spaltet das Bild vom Riesling bis zu dem Punkt, wo selbst Kenner nicht mehrwissen, was hier jetzt Sache ist. Dabei ist es wenig hilfreich, wenn neue Rieslinggebiete wieOregon hauptsächlich süßliche Rieslinge auf den Markt bringen und damit das Rieslingbildim wichtigen US-Markt wieder verstärkt in die liebliche Richtung drängen, während in Europader trockene Riesling derart dominiert, dass selbst die großen fruchtsüßen Vertreter Gefahrlaufen, marginalisiert zu werden. Das Dilemma der fruchtsüßen Rieslinge besteht darin,dass eine immer kleiner werdende Kennerschaft weiß, dass die Spitzengewächse dieses Typsabsolute Weltklasse sind, während gleichzeitig liebliche Massenprodukte im Billigbereichseit Jahrzehnten diesen Ruf konterkarieren.

Im Weinmarketing spielen Rebsorten eine große Rolle. Aber die Sorte darf niemals allein imVordergrund stehen, denn Austauschbarkeit ist die größte Gefahr, in eine Preisspirale nachunten zu geraten. Das sieht man am besten bei Sauvignon Blanc. Daher ist es wichtig undpositiv, das Rieslingmarketing mit einem strengen Herkunftsmarketing bis hin zur kleinstenEinheit der Einzellage zu unterstützen. Auch Lagenklassifikationen sind ein tauglichesInstrument, aber sie können nur das Ende einer Strukturierungsentwicklung sein, sagt auchJancis Robinson: „This is fine for the converted but Riesling as a concept and flavour needsmuch more done for it before we get to this. And anyway, sweetness levels are a much big-ger issue than precise provenance. (Das ist gut für die Bekehrten, aber für Riesling als Konzeptund Geschmack muss noch viel mehr getan werden, bevor wir zu diesem Punkt kommen.Und überhaupt, der Restzuckergehalt ist der viel wichtigere Punkt als die präzise Herkunft).“

So wichtig die Lage als kleinste, hochwertigste Herkunft eines Spitzenweins auch ist: Fürdas generische Dachmarketing sind neben der Rebsorte zuallererst das Weinbaugebiet undseine vorherrschende Weinstilistik am wichtigsten. Deshalb verbinden die erfolgreichstenHerkunftsmarketingkonzepte den Namen des Weinbaugebiets mit einem oder wenigen klarenWeinprofil(en). Der Name des Gebiets wird zum Namen des Weins, z.B. Barolo. Diesem Begriffsteht als Begriffsinhalt ein klar definierter Weinstil zur Verfügung. Das ist das Optimum imgenerischen Marketing, deshalb geht Österreich mit seinem kontinuierlich weiter ausge-bauten Appellationssystem unter dem Kürzel „DAC“ diesen aus den romanischen Ländernbekannten Weg. Die in den achtziger Jahren eingeführten Gebietsmarken der Wachau sinddazu keinesfalls ein Widerspruch, denn auch sie definieren für das Gebiet klare Weinstile indrei Kategorien, die allesamt trocken sind. Entscheidend dabei ist, dass hinter offiziellenAppellationssystemen ein Netz von Branchenorganisationen steht, die die Weinbaupolitikfür das Gebiet gestalten und über das nationale Komitee und Ministerverordnungen gesetz-lich allgemeingültig regeln können. Solange die Spitzenbetriebe sich in den Branchen -organisationen stark einbringen und im Idealfall die regionalen Gremien dominieren, istdieses System besser als ein privat- oder vereinsrechtliches Gefüge im Rahmen von Marken -gemeinschaften. Auf diese Weise kann die Kommunikation strategisch geplant und das

Willi Klinger

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Marketing zwischen den Gebieten und der Dachorganisation verzahnt werden, womit maxi-male Synergien entstehen. Wenn die Spitzenerzeuger allerdings nicht mitmachen, führtdieses System zu zahnlosen Regelungen.

Die Schwierigkeit in Deutschland liegt in der starken föderalen Eigenständigkeit der Länderund einer nur schwach ausgeprägten Richtlinienkompetenz des Dachmarketings, dessenPosition zusätzlich durch den bestimmenden Einfluss von Großkellereien und das in Deutsch -land sehr starke Genossenschaftswesen geschwächt wird.

Aber es gibt auch Anlass zu Optimismus. Der Riesling erlebt weltweit eine Renaissance, wobeifür den deutschen Riesling die steigende Wertschätzung und die daraus folgende wachsendeNachfrage nach hochwertigen Rieslingen auf dem Heimmarkt eine wichtige Grund voraus -setzung ist. Aber es gibt Verbesserungsbedarf in der Kommunikation des komplexen Themas,weil offizielle Stellen wie das DWI die Kommunikationsinhalte des VdP nicht einfach überneh-men können. Umso mehr muss die Weinbaupolitik auf Landes- und Bundesebene versuchen,mit dem DWI, den regionalen Weinwerbungsinstitutionen und dem VdP allgemeingültige kom-munikationstechnische Mindeststandards einzuführen. Vor allem in der Frage der Restsüßemuss die weltweit grassierende Verunsicherung der Konsumenten aktiv bekämpft werden.

Angesichts der schwierigen legistischen Verhältnisse stellt das freiwillige Kennzeich-nungs system namens „Riesling Taste Profile“ der International Riesling Foundation mit demkalifornischen Journalisten Dan Berger als Projektleiter einen ernstzunehmendenLösungsansatz dar. Die Schwierigkeit liegt derzeit darin, dass die Grenzbereiche zwischenden vier Kategorien „dry“, „medium dry“, „medium sweet“ und „sweet“ Konflikte mit demEU-Bezeichnungsrecht oder nationalen Vorschriften auslösen können. Hier ist noch vielAbstimmungsarbeit nötig. Dem Grundgedanken, den Geschmackseindruck stärker zu be-werten als den analytischen Restzuckergehalt, soll durch eine Beurteilung des Zusammen -spiels zwischen Restzucker, Säure und ph-Wert Rechnung getragen werden. Der Produzentkann nun seinen jeweiligen Wein auf dem Rückenetikett mit einem EPS Vector Diagramm unddem Vektorpfeil auf der entsprechenden Position geschmacklich einordnen. 26 MillionenFlaschen tragen in den USA bereits dieses Kennzeichnungssystem auf dem Rückenetikett.

Aus den USA kommt auch eine bemerkenswerte Marketingintiative, die 2008 in der „Terroir“Winebar von Paul Grieco im New Yorker East Village begann und von dort aus unter dem Titel„Summer of Riesling“ zu einem großen landesweiten Eventfeuerwerk wurde. 2012 beteiligtensich auch Österreich, Elsass, die Finger Lakes Region und Australien am „Summer of Riesling“.Deutschland kann hier natürlich am meisten punkten, denn die 31 Days of German Rieslingbringen im Rahmen des „Summer of Riesling“ die entsprechenden Synergien und unter-mauern Deutschlands Stellung als führender Rieslingproduzent der Welt.

Steigende Marktchancen ergeben sich für den Riesling auch in Asien. Zwar haben dieMärkte, allen voran China, derzeit noch einen sehr geringen Pro-Kopf-Verbrauch und einen

Die zehn Gebote des Rieslingmarketings

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Rotweinanteil von über 80 Prozent, aber es ist zu erwarten, dass der Weißweinanteil steigenwird. Außerdem sind die jungen Leute empfänglich für unseren Lebensstil und machen west-liche Trends wie „Wining & Dining“ begeistert mit. Auch wenn im traditionellen chinesischenEssensritual kein „Food & Wine Pairing“ vorgesehen ist, greifen die Jungen dieses Themaimmer mehr auf. Dabei ist allerdings Vorsicht geboten, denn man kann mit bei uns üblichenVergleichen von Aromen und Früchten in Asien wenig ausrichten. Auch drohen jede Mengekulturelle Fallen, sodass bei Vergleichen Vorsicht geboten ist.

Für den Ruf des Rieslings und konsumentengerechte Information sind profunde Publi-kationen unerlässlich. Zwei neue Werke, die in Kürze erscheinen, seien hier stellvertretendgenannt: „Best White Wine on Earth – The Riesling Book“ von Stuart Pigott und ein ebenfallsenglischsprachiges Rieslingbuch des Amerikaners John Haeger (Arbeitstitel „Dry Riesling“,Erscheinungsdatum voraussichtlich 2015).

Die Hauptaufgabe für ein generisches Rieslingmarketing wäre es, das immer noch etwasaltbackene Image der Sorte aufzufrischen. Junge Konsumenten laufen derzeit weltweit inScharen in die Lager der Orange und Natural Wines über, wo Riesling kaum eine Rolle spielt.Am Riesling könnte sich ja auch die Frage entscheiden, wieviel „natural“ Fine Wine überhauptverträgt, ohne seine Finesse und Größe zu verlieren. Jedenfalls ist die Frage der Attraktivitätdes Rieslings und seiner Anbaugebiete für die junge Szene ein wichtiges Kapitel. Die DWIInitiative „Next Generation“ oder die erwähnte Kampagne „Summer of Riesling“ sind dabeisicherlich Schritte in die richtige Richtung.

Willi Klinger

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Moderation: Stuart Pigott

WINE TASTING I

“New World” Rieslings …More Traditional than “Old World” Rieslings?

Rieslinge aus der „Neuen Welt” –traditioneller als Rieslinge aus der „Alten Welt”?

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WINE TASTING I

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WINE TASTING I | Stuart Pigott

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Riesling and its beautifully balanced wines have always been linked to the cool climates ofGermany. Here the interplay between acidity, aroma and residual sweetness seems at its best,producing wines with enormous tension. But the German climates are warming up, as in therest of the world, and the big question is whether Riesling growers will have to adapt theirviticultural practices in order to maintain the wine styles they have traditionally made.

Although Riesling is historically considered to be the quality grape variety of Germany, it isalso grown in many wine regions of the world. Of the roughly 35,000 hectares of Rieslingvineyards worldwide, 22,600 hectares are situated in Germany. Alsace (France) has about3,500 ha, Austria 1,700 ha, Australia 4,500 ha, the US 1,700 ha and New Zealand around 900ha. All together, this is not much considering that the total amount of vineyards in the worldis > 7 million hectares!

Clearly, not all regions have cool climate conditions, despite Riesling being considered a coolclimate grape variety. It’s usually the New World regions which are warmest in summer,such as the Okanagan Valley in Canada, the Yakima Valley in Washington State, USA, or theAdelaide Hills and Clare Valley, Australia, yet Blenheim in New Zealand is on the cooler sideof all “Riesling wine regions” with a reputation. How much do climatic influences mitigateRiesling’s distinct character? And can we look to the warmer regions outside of Germany asan example?

1. Does Riesling have a favourite climate?

In general, Riesling as a grape variety needs cool to intermediate climates to ripen itscrop properly. The coolest regions have average growing season (April-October [Northernhemi sphere], October-April [Southern hemisphere] ) temperatures of 13 to 15°C. They aretraditionally suited for grape varieties such as (in diminishing order) Müller-Thurgau, PinotGris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and to a lesser extend Chardonnay and SauvignonBlanc. However, while we have no specific information about the upper temperature thres-holds of suitability for these varieties, we do know that Riesling shares with other varieties inthis list its adaptability to intermediate climates, with average growing season temperaturesof 15 to 17°C. These temperatures reflect the average conditions present for example inGeisenheim (Rheingau, Germany) since the year 2000 (van Leeuwen et al. 2013). Other culti-vars where intermediate climates form the minimum requirement for cultivation are for

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DoWe Know the Climatic andViticultural Basis for the Productionof Great Riesling Wines?

Hans Reiner Schultz

example Semillon, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Dolcetto, Merlot, to some extent Malbec,Syrah, and Viognier and on the lower extreme Cabernet Sauvignon. It is clear that this opensup possibilities for Riesling to be present in worldwide regions famous for other (traditional)grape varieties. Yakima Valley in Washington State in the US and Clare Valley in Australiaare just two examples.

Beyond temperature, there are many other climatic factors that play a role in the formationof grape composition and ultimately, wine quality. Yakima Valley in Washington for examplehas the warmest summer, while New Zealand has the coolest average temperature – coolereven than Germany. But the warmest nights in summer are to be found in Austria and Alsace,while Washington State, the Okanagan Valley and the Adelaide Hills have the coolestsummer nights, and thus the highest diurnal temperature differences, up to 20°C in Yakima.In Germany, diurnal temperature differences are much lower, between 10 and 12°C during thegrowing season and between 10 and 8°C in September and October, nearing harvest. Yakimaalso has most sunshine hours, Geisenheim in Germany and Colmar in Alsace have the least.Precipitation is most abundant in the European Riesling regions and relatively equallydistributed throughout the year. It is difficult to draw conclusions from this analysis since itseems almost contrary to our notion what climate conditions are best suited for qualityRiesling production; low day-night temperature amplitude? Low sunshine hours? Relativelyhigh precipitation rates?

Several studies have shown that grapevine phenology has significantly advanced in manywine growing regions in the past (Jones et al. 2005; Duchêne and Schneider 2005) andwill continue to shift forward with the main ripening period occurring at much highertemperatures (Webb et al. 2007, 2008). However, the predicted changes seem smaller thanthe existing differences between grape growing regions, despite these regions all having areputation for quality production with the same variety.

This makes it difficult to draw clear relationships between climatology and vine performanceor wine quality since obviously the eco-physiological adaptation and buffering capacity islarge. Certainly climatic variables affect grape composition, as evidenced by long-termincreases in temperature in the past being implicated in altered fruit composition in Europe,North America and Australia (Schultz 2000; Duchêne and Schneider 2005; Wolfe et al. 2005;Petrie and Sadras 2008, Webb et al. 2012), but there may be counteracting effects if differentregions with a different climatic matrix are compared. For example, given that enzymeactivity in the fruit is related to temperature, would conditions such as warmer days andcooler nights, thus higher day-night temperature differences have a similar effect as coolerdays and warmer nights, thus lower day-night temperatures?

While many studies have used temperature summations to predict shifts in the varietalspectrum (Kenny and Harrison 1992; Schultz 2000; Stock et al. 2005), mainly based on someminimum requirement for sugar concentration, these approaches do not incorporate factors

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such as day-night variations, sunshine hours or water availability which are co-factors inquality formation and they additionally neglect possible mitigation strategies through culti-vation methods.

It is also very likely that different varieties will respond differently to warming. For example,an increase in temperature from 20 to 30°C increased the weight of bunch primordia (pre-formed inflorescences in the latent winter buds) 4-fold in Riesling but left Shiraz unaffected(Dunn 2005). Shiraz also showed very little response in basic yield components in a 2 to 4°Cwarming experiment (Sadras and Soar 2009). In principle, red varieties appear to toleratewarm conditions better than white varieties. In an in-depth analysis of the relationshipbetween vintage quality and the long-term daily mean temperature during the month priorto harvest, Sadras et al. (2007) found contrasting responses for red and white varieties across24 Australian wine regions. There was a positive correlation of quality ratings and daily meanregional temperature for red but not for white wines, whereas the apparent influence oftemperature on vintage variability was strong for white wines but irrelevant for red wines.However, a correlation of wine score data with the average growing season temperature(October to April) showed a negative trend for red and white wines in some of the analysedregions (Hayman et al. 2009).

The differences between Riesling areas are relatively large. But the question remains, are thewine styles Riesling produces in these different countries and regions equally distinct? Somewould argue yes. Despite these differences, it’s still a Riesling character, indicating that forthe coolest regions, like Germany, there is significant adaptation potential to climate change.Within most regions where Riesling is grown, climatic variations are smaller. But at the coolerend of climate requirements, i.e. in the coolest climates, these small variations can havesubstantial consequences for the wine styles produced within these regions and site-specificconditions may well lead to slightly different wines (warmer, fruitier etc.) (Fischer 2011).

2. Riesling and its soils

Apart from Riesling’s climatic preferences, we also need to look at its suitability to soil.It seems logical to presume that if this grape variety is grown in varied regions and climateswithout losing its varietal character, it must also be capable of growing on different soilswhile retaining its unique properties. In Germany alone there are numerous different soil typeson which Riesling is grown: rhyolite (red shale), loam, limestone, quartzite, sand, slate, redclay, sandstone and basalt. Within these diverse types there are also more subtle differences.Slate for example exists in different forms and colours like red, blue, grey and yellow.

Different soil types have different compositions and availability of nutrients for the vine. Stonesoils like slate for example have lower nutrient levels and are less fertile than alluvial soils.Vines on stone soils will produce wines with a more steely and restrained character than vinesgrown on alluvial soils. This leads many wine lovers to claim that stone soils will provide wines

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with more minerality (Fischer 2011). There is however no direct proven link between the soilcomposition and the taste of a wine although there are some correlations (Bauer et al. 2011).And the nutrient content of the soil may not be the decisive factor per se if water availa-bility is limited and thus transport capacity for nutrients from the soil to the vine.

But things are more complicated than that. The dark colour of some stony soils, grey slatein the Mosel region for example, may compensate for the lack of nutrients, encouragingspecific aroma profiles. The heat captured during the day in the stones is reflected ontothe grapevine canopy in the early hours of the night, thus lowering diurnal temperaturedifferences and prolonging enzymatic processes – like the accumulation of sugars and thedegeneration of acids –within the vine and the fruit. Soil colour affects the ability to reflectsunlight radiation into the canopy both in quantity and quality. The ratio of red to far-redlight (660nm–730nm) has an effect on a pigment complex (phytochrome) which deter-mines the activity of certain enzymes in the grapes, like invertase (important for sugar accu-mulation), PAL (Phenylalanine Ammonium Lyase, for the formation of phenolic compounds)and nitrate reductase (important for amino acid supply). Red and far-red light is morereflected into the canopy on white soils, followed by red and brown soils (Stoll et al. 2008).Black soils have a markedly lower reflected radiation which causes them to heat up drastically(Fig. 1). The differences between the different soils are largest in summer and decrease to-wards the end of the growing season.

Soil temperature is inversely linked to fruit temperature, thus black slate has the lowest(because of low reflection) and white pumice which would be representative of limestonesoils have the warmest fruit temperatures (because of high reflection) during the day. Thus,phenolic compounds in the grapes are highest in fruit on white soils and lowest on black slatesoils (Stoll et al. 2008).

Hans Reiner Schultz

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Fig. 1

Effects of soil surface material onsoil surface temperature at mid-day(2-3 pm). Soil surface temperaturewas measured by thermal imagerywithin the row (4th of Aug. 2007).Bars represent the maximum andminimum temperatures of sunlit vs. shaded areas of the soil with average temperatures indicated bythe horizontal lines. Air temperaturewas 31.4°C on average during this time period (Stoll et al. 2008).

3. The aromas of Riesling and factors influencing them

As in all other vineyards of the world, grape composition and especially sugar and potentialalcohol levels have changed over the last 40 years. The main reason, at least in the mostnorthern grape growing regions, such as Germany (Geisenheim is situated at the 50th degreelatitude north), is global warming, perfected and supported by the increasing knowhow withregard to viticultural techniques and canopy management in particular. But long-term datashow clearly that it is climate evolvement which was paramount. Average potential alcohollevels have risen from 1970-1986 to 1994-2013 by about 26 percent. Total acidity levelshave decreased from 15.5 grams per litre to on average 9 grams per litre (expressed as tartaricequivalent) over the same time periods. In general, grapes are riper than they used to, but thenagain the concept of ripeness is not easily grasped and the question of what is perfect ripe-ness has still yet to be answered.

Different chemical compounds are responsible for the unique aromatic profile of Riesling.Citronellol and �-terpineol (both terpenes) are responsible for citrus aromas; �-ionon and�-damascenone (both norisoprenoids) lead to aromas of tropical fruits, apple, apricot and peach;3-mercaptohexylacetate (a thiol) produces passion fruit aromas, while 3-mercapto-hexanol,3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol and 2-phenylethanol are responsible for grapefruit, melon and rosy, floweryaromas, respectively. Linalool, geraniol and nerol (terpenes) lead to flowery and orange-like aro-mas.�-damascenone seems to be a powerful flavour component for both red and white varietiesbecause it has been found to be linearly related to perceived wine quality (Ristic et al. 2010) andbecause it can modify the perception of other aroma compounds even below its own percepti-on threshold (Pineau et al. 2007). �-Damascenone in Riesling was found to be higher when soilwater content was more abundant and when fruit exposure was maximised (Sack et al. 2010),yet the latter response seems to be variable and may be varietal dependent (Ristic et al. 2010).

Very recently, Schüttler (2012) discovered that the concentration of trans-ethyl cinnamate(TEC) has a significant correlation to Riesling typicity. TEC is not an aroma compound butan odoriferous ester formed during alcoholic fermentation from cinnamic acid. The latter com-pound originates in the grape berry and is formed via the phenylpropanoid pathway by theaction of the enzyme PAL. Since PAL responds to both light quality and light intensity, thereis a direct link to fruit exposure and probably also to soil colour. Defoliation caused TEC toincrease in grapes and wines as compared to a control. However, irrigation had thesame effect (Schüttler 2012) suggesting that soil water status also plays a role in perceivedtypicity. The concentration of this compound increased with bottle ageing (Schüttler 2012). Inthe same study, Schüttler (2012) found a substantial impact of vine water status and fruitzone defoliation on the concentration of 3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol (3SH), a thiol which was alsorelated to Riesling typicity with descriptors such as ”melon” and “grapefruit”. Although thiscompound is formed between pressing and fermentation, there were obvious correlations toviticultural practices and soil water content. 3SH decreased with water deficit and increasedwith fruit exposure, although the latter response was less clear.


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One of the most controversial aroma compounds in Riesling, especially in aged wines, is TDN(1,1.6-trimethyl-1.2-dihydronaphtaline), the norisoprenoid responsible for kerosene and petrolaromas. In general, passion fruit and grapefruit play a big role in the aromatic profile ofRiesling, while TDN, despite not being unique to Riesling, can add to complexity at low con-centrations and can be overwhelming at high concentrations, once the wines age and theiraromatic backbone diminishes. TDN is very potent and 50% of the population is capable ofperceiving this compound (Sacks et al. 2012). Until recently, the perception threshold of TDNwas believed to be 20µg/L, but that figure has been dramatically revised. The new thresholdis just 2µg/L, a concentration 10 times lower (Black et al. 2012).

The cause of TDN and its resulting kerosene aromas is difficult to understand, and science hasnot yet found a full explanation. In general, TDN levels in Riesling grapes (it is present in thegrape flesh) rise when the grapevine experiences drought, heat and nitrogen deficiency(Linsen meier and Löhnertz 2007), and so it seems to be linked to vines being stressed. Itscontent is linked to sugar increase, and so its level rises with grape ripening, especially in hotclimates. But different clones and also different yeast strains during fermentation can enhancethe level of TDN in grapes and must (Sponholz and Hühn 1997) and its formation may be rela-ted to the very high ratios of beta carotene to lutein in Riesling as compared to other varieties.

High temperature and sun exposure will increase TDN formation (Marais et al. 1992). Rieslinggrapes that are directly exposed to sunlight, when the leaves in the fruit zone have beenplucked away, have much higher levels of TDN than shaded grapes (Sack et al. 2010). Otherresearch has found that TDN levels decrease when the pH of the grape juice rises which mightbe the reason why Riesling wines from the Mosel Valley are more prone to kerosene likeflavour development. In general, this is linked to soil fertility and nutrient availability, especi-ally with regard to nitrogen and potassium. The higher the nutrient availability, the lowerTDN levels seem to be. Recent experiments have demonstrated that there seems to be a“window” during berry development right after bloom when exposure to sunlight will onlymoderately affect TDN concentration in the wine (Kwasniewski et al. 2010, Schüttler 2012)and this finding might be very useful in developing a strategy to prevent Botrytis (i.e. fruitzone defoliation) but avoid an excessive increase in TDN after bottling.

4. Viticultural measures for potentially great wines

Different soil types have their effects on vineyard microclimate and plant water supply.For many aroma components sufficient water seems to enhance their synthesis with theexception of terpenes (Linsenmeier and Löhnertz 2007, Schüttler 2012). Thus water supplyand/or soil management will have an influence on the balance between terpenes and noriso-prenoids and thiols such as ß-damascenone and 3SH.Sufficient water supply, either by naturalprecipitation or supplemental irrigation, will also prevent the fast formation of TDN and otherageing compounds (Schultz and Gruber 2005). Precipitation distribution during the seasonis of some concern, since summer rainfall is projected to decrease and winter precipitation

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to increase with a continuous increase in the evaporative demand of the atmosphere. Thecorrect choice of rootstock and planting density can partly counteract these developments.Figure 2 shows how rooting depth is affected by increasing planting density within the row.At comparable yields and sugar levels, the deeper root system improves plant water relationsand amino acid concentration in the juice and results in higher quality wines (Schultz 2005).

For the production of great Riesling wines canopy management is especially important. If fruitzone defoliation is applied for Botrytis protection it needs to be performed around bloom orafter veraison to avoid high TDN concentrations. This may also support the formation of otheraromatic compounds contributing to Riesling typicity such as TEC and 3SH. Yield regulationis important but great wines do not necessarily need extreme low yields since excessivedown-regulation of yield will cause the formation of more compact bunches and increase therisk for Botrytis. Halving of clusters has been shown to be beneficial for both quality and tole-rance to Botrytis. Harvest date is crucial for every variety, but extremely late harvests willincrease the propensity of TDN formation, especially on acid soils. Thus for longevity andbalance harvesting extremely late may not be the optimum especially in warm vintages.

Prof. Dr. Hans Reiner Schultz

President of Geisenheim University


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Fig. 2

Changes in root length densitythroughout the soil profile fortwo different planting densitiesin a Geisenheim Riesling vineyard (on 5C rootstock). Rowdistance was 2m and distancebetween vines was 0.6m (highdensity, approx. 8330 plants/ha)and 2.4m (low density, approx.2.080 plants/ha). Pruning levelper m2 was maintained equalbetween treatments.Measurements were conductedin 2005 when the vineyard was 28 years old (Viehauser and Adam 2006).

Die Sorte Riesling mit ihren ausgewogenen Weinen wurde immer mit den kühlen KlimazonenDeutschlands in Verbindung gebracht. Unter diesen Bedingungen scheint die Balance zwischenSäure, Aroma und Restzucker am ausgewogensten. Aber die deutschen Anbaugebiete er-wärmen sich wie die meisten Rebenanbaugebiete der Welt, und es stellt sich die Frage, obder Winzer sein weinbauliches Management anpassen muss, um die traditionelle Stilrichtungauch in Zukunft zu verfolgen.

Obwohl Riesling traditionell als die Qualitätsrebsorte Deutschlands gilt, wird sie doch in vielenRegionen der Erde angebaut. Von den grob geschätzten 35.000ha weltweiter Rieslingflächebefinden sich ca. 22.600 derzeit in Deutschland. Im Elsass findet man ca. 3.500ha, in Öster-reich 1.700 ha, Australien 4.500, den USA 1.700 und in Neuseeland ca. 900ha Im Vergleich zurwelt weiten Rebfläche von >7 Millionen Hektar ist dieser Anteil verschwindend gering!

Auf den ersten Blick sind nicht alle Regionen wirklich „kühle Klimaregionen“, obwohl Rieslingals Rebsorte kühler Klimazonen gilt. Vor allem die Überseeregionen sind weitaus wärmer imSommer, wie z.B. das Okanagan Valley in Kanada, das Yakima Valley in Washington State, USA,oder die Adelaide Hills und das Clare Valley in Australien, während Blenheim in Neuseeland aufder eher kühlen Seite aller Riesling Weinanbaugebiete mit einem Ruf für hohe Qualität liegt.Inwieweit beeinflusst das Klima den Charakter dieser Rebsorte und kann man die Bedingungenausländischer Regionen für eine solche Beurteilung heranziehen?

1. Gibt es für Riesling ein ideales Klima?

Generell weisen die kühlsten Regionen, die mit Riesling bestockt sind, durchschnittlicheTemperaturen während der Vegetationsperiode (April-Oktober [Nord Hemisphäre], Oktober-April [Süd Hemisphäre]) von 13 bis 15°C auf. Innerhalb dieser Spanne sind traditionell auchMüller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Spätburgunder und etwas wenigerhäufig Chardonnay und Sauvignon Blanc zu finden. Dabei gibt es keine Informationen hin-sichtlich des oberen Temperaturschwellenwertes für die Sorteneignung. Allerdings scheintdie Anpassung an die nächst höheren „Temperaturklassen“ von 15 bis 17° C, die z.B. die Be -dingungen wiedergeben, die in Geisenheim durchschnittlich seit dem Jahr 2000 zu registrierenwaren, weder für Riesling noch für die anderen Sorten der oberen Liste ein Problem darzu-stellen (van Leeuwen et al. 2013). Andere Sorten, für die diese „Temperaturspanne“ alsMinimum voraussetzung für die Kultivierung gilt, sind z.B. Semillon, Cabernet Franc,

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Kennen wir die Grundlagen zurProduktion großer Riesling Weine?

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Tempranillo, Dolcetto, Merlot und mit gewissen Abstrichen Malbec, Syrah und Viognier sowieCabernet Sauvignon. Hier wird die Überschneidung deutlich, die in der Eignung mit anderenRebsorten besteht, und damit ist grundsätzlich die Möglichkeit gegeben, Riesling auch inRegionen zu kultivieren, die eher für andere (ebenfalls traditionelle) Rebsorten bekannt sind,dabei sind das Yakima Valley in Washington State in den USA und das Clare Valley in Australiennur zwei Beispiele.

Die Temperatur ist allerdings nur ein Klimafaktor, der für die Bildung und Einlagerung vonInhaltsstoffen in die Beere und damit ultimativ für die Weinqualität eine Rolle spielt.Vergleicht man verschiedene Riesling Anbaugebiete weltweit miteinander, dann weist dasYakima Valley in Washington den wärmsten Sommer auf, während Blenheim in Neuseeland dieniedrigsten Durchschnittstemperaturen hat, kühler als in den meisten deutschen Wein -anbaugebieten. Allerdings haben Durchschnittstemperaturen nur bedingt eine Aussagekraft.So findet man die höchsten Nachttemperaturen in Österreich (Wien) und dem Elsass, währendWashington State, das Okanagan Valley und die Region Adelaide Hills die kühlstenSommernächte aufweisen und damit auch die größten Tag-Nachtdifferenzen, bis zu 20°C z.B.in Yakima. In den deutschen Weinbauregionen sind diese Tag-Nachtunterschiede deutlichgeringer, zwischen 10 und 12°C während des Sommers und zwischen 8 und 10°C im Septemberund Oktober (Daten des Deutschen Wetterdienstes, Außenstelle Geisenheim). Yakima hat imVergleich auch die höchste Sonnenscheinstundenzahl, Geisenheim und Colmar im Elsass diegeringste. Niederschläge sind höher in den europäischen Weinbaugebieten und relativ gleich-mäßig verteilt über das Jahr, während diese niedriger und ungleichmäßiger in den Übersee-regionen anfallen. Es ist schwierig, hieraus generelle Rückschlüsse zu ziehen, da viele dieserFakten eigentlich konträr zur allgemeinen Vorstellungen liegen, welche Klimafaktoren in welcherForm einen positiven Einfluss auf die Qualität von Riesling haben. Niedrige Tag-Nacht -temperatur unterschiede? Niedrige Sonnenscheinstundenzahl? Relativ hohe Nieder schläge?

Mehrere Studien haben gezeigt, dass sich die Rebenphänologie in vielen Regionen signifikantverfrüht hat (Jones et al. 2005; Duchêne and Schneider 2005) und sich weiter verfrühen wirdund dadurch die Hauptreifezeit unter wärmeren Temperaturen stattfinden wird (Webb et al.2007, 2008). Allerdings scheinen die vorhergesagten Änderungen innerhalb einer Region ver-gleichsweise gering gegenüber den Unterschieden zu sein, die bereits zwischen unterschied-lichen Rieslinggebieten weltweit existieren.

Deshalb ist es schwierig, einen klaren Zusammenhang zwischen Klima und Rebenleistungbzw. Weinqualität zu ziehen, da offensichtlich die umweltphysiologischen Anpassungs -mechanismen und Pufferkapazitäten sehr hoch sind. Sicherlich beeinflussen Klima kompo -nenten die Traubenzusammensetzung, wie dies durch die Korrelation langfristig gestiegenerTemperaturen mit gestiegener Zuckerkonzentration in Europa, Nordamerika und Australienerkennbar ist (Schultz 2000; Duchêne and Schneider 2005; Wolfe et al. 2005; Petrie and Sadras2008,Webb et al.2012), aber es kann auch zu sich gegenseitig aufhebenden Effekten kommen,wenn unterschiedliche Regionen mit unterschiedlicher „Klimamatrix“ verglichen werden. Zum

Kennen wir die Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Riesling Weine?

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Beispiel ist ungeklärt, unter welchen Bedingungen temperaturabhängige Enzymaktivitätenin der Traube, z.B. für die Aromastoffeinlagerung, höher sind – bei warmen Tagen und kühlenNächten (hohe Tag-Nachtdifferenz) oder kühlen Tagen und warmen Nächten (geringere Tag-Nachtdifferenz) – oder ist das Ergebnis gar gleich?

Viele Studien, die Temperatursummen verwenden, um Vorhersagen über Veränderungendes Sortenspiegels zu machen (Kenny and Harrison 1992; Schultz 2000; Stock et al. 2005),ignorieren alle anderen Klimafaktoren, die ebenfalls Einfluss auf die Qualitätsbildung haben,und ignorieren ebenfalls, dass der Mensch über Kultivierungsmaßnahmen den Klimaeinflussabschwächen oder verstärken kann.

Des Weiteren ist es wahrscheinlich, dass Rebsorten unterschiedlich auf erhöhte Temperaturenreagieren. Zum Beispiel erhöhte ein Temperaturanstieg von 20 auf 30°C das Gewicht derInfloreszenzen (Traubenansatz) in den Winteraugen bei Riesling um ein Vierfaches, währenddies bei der Sorte Syrah keine Reaktion hervorrief (Dunn 2005). Syrah zeigte darüber hinausnur wenig Reaktion in den Erntekomponenten in einem Versuch mit 2 bis 4°C Erwärmung(Sadras and Soar 2009). Im Prinzip scheinen rote Sorten warme Temperaturen besser zutolerieren als weiße Sorten. In einer detaillierten Analyse des Verhältnisses der Erntequalitätzur langjährigen durchschnittlichen Temperatur während des Monats vor dem Erntezeitpunktfanden Sadras et al. (2007) komplett entgegengesetzte Reaktionen bei roten und weißenSorten über 24 australische Regionen hinweg. So gab es eine positive Korrelation zwischender Qualitätsbewertung und der durchschnittlichen Temperatur für rote – nicht aber fürweiße Sorten, wobei der Einfluss der Temperatur auf die Jahrgangsvariabilität bei weißenSorten stark ausgeprägt war, aber keine Rolle bei roten Sorten spielte. Auch wenn Wein -bewertungsaufzeichnungen in Bezug zur durchschnittlichen Temperatur während derVegetationsperiode gesetzt wurden, zeigte sich in manchen Regionen für weiße Sorten einenegative Korrelation (Hayman et al. 2009).

Im weltweiten Kontext sind die Unterschiede zwischen den Riesling-Regionen relativ groß.Die Frage besteht, ob die Weinstile, die in diesen Regionen mit Riesling produziert werden,ebenfalls so unterschiedlich sind? Viele würden dies bejahen und trotzdem „Rieslingcharakter”attestieren, unabhängig vom Anbaugebiet. Am kühleren Ende der Skala scheinen dieVariationen aber zuzunehmen und Konsequenten für den Weinstil zu haben. Hier wirken sichlagenspezifische Einflüsse auch deutlich stärker aus, mit Auswirkungen auf den Weincharakterund dessen Beschreibung (z.B. fruchtiger, mineralischer etc.) (Fischer 2011).

2. Riesling und seine Böden

Abweichend von den klimatischen Präferenzen dieser Sorte spielt auch die Bodeneignung eingroße Rolle. Es scheint logisch anzunehmen, dass, wenn diese Sorte in relativ unterschied-lichen Klimaregionen angebaut werden kann, ohne ihren Charakter zu verlieren, sie dann eben-falls für ein breites Spektrum an Böden geeignet sein müsste, ohne die „Typizität“ zu verlieren.

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In Deutschland findet man entsprechend ein großes Spektrum von Ryolit (felsigesVulkangestein, rot bis grau) über Löss (hohe Wasserhaltefähigkeit) zu kalkhaltigen Böden,Quarzit, Grauschiefer und roten Tonen. Innerhalb dieser diversen Typen existieren jeweils vielefeinere Unterschiede. So kommen z.B. Schieferböden in unterschiedlichen Farben (grau, blau,rot oder gelb) vor.

Unterschiedliche Bodentypen können stark unterschiedliche Zusammensetzungen aufweisen,mit entsprechender Variationsbreite im Nährstoffangebot für die Rebe. Steinige Böden, wiezum Beispiel der Schiefer, haben niedrigere Konzentrationen an bestimmten Nährstoffen undsind somit weniger fruchtbar als z.B. alluviale (Schwemmland) Böden. Ob Reben auf steini-geren Böden Weine mit stärkerer mineralischer Ausprägung hervorbringen, ist Gegenstand vonvielen Diskussionen (Fischer 2011). Es gibt bisher keinen wirklich direkten Zusammenhangzwischen der Bodenzusammensetzung und dem Geschmacksbild eines Weines, obwohlKorrelationen existieren (Bauer et al. 2011), deren Kausalität aber schwierig nachzuvollziehenist. Weiterhin zeigen viele Studien, dass der Nährstoffgehalt per se nicht der entscheidendeFaktor ist, wenn die Wasserverfügbarkeit limitiert ist und damit auch die Transportkapazitätfür Nährstoffe vom Boden in die Rebe.

Neben der Nährstoffverfügbarkeit und dem Bodenwassergehalt spielt die Bodenfarbe ebenfallseine Rolle. Die dunkle Farbe bestimmter Böden, wie z.B. des Grauschiefers in vielen Lagen derMosel, kann über die Temperaturverhältnisse sicherlich ebenfalls Veränderungen in derTrauben zusammensetzung hervorrufen. Die Strahlung wird bei dieser Art Boden tagsüber inden obersten Schichten gespeichert und in den frühen Nachtstunden an die Umgebungwieder abgegeben. Dies vermindert die Tag-Nachttemperaturamplitude in der Traubenzoneund könnte enzymatische Prozesse fördern, die z.B. an der Zuckereinlagerung oder am Säure -abbau beteiligt sind.

Die Bodenfarbe beeinflusst die Reflektion (Rückstrahlung) in die Laubwand und Traubenzonesowohl hinsichtlich der Strahlungsquantität als auch der Strahlungsqualität (Zusammen -setzung des Lichts). So hat das Verhältnis von hell-rotem zu dunkel-rotem Licht (660nm zu730nm) einen Einfluss auf einen Pigmentkomplex, das sogenannte Phytochrom, welches dieAktivität verschiedener Enzyme in der Traube steuert, wie z. B. die Invertase (wichtig für dieZuckereinlagerung), PAL (Phenylalanin Ammonium Lyase, wichtig für die Bildung phenolischerInhaltsstoffe) und die Nitratreduktase (wichtig für den Stickstoff- und Aminosäurehaushalt).Beide Lichtbereiche werden durch weiße Bodenoberflächen am stärksten reflektiert, gefolgtvon roten und braunen Böden (Stoll et al. 2008). Dunkle Böden haben eine deutlich reduzier-te Reflektion, was zu einer starken Erhitzung führt (Abb. 1). Die Unterschiede zwischen denBöden mit unterschiedlicher Farbe sind im Sommer am größten und nehmen gegen Ende derVegetationsperiode ab.


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Die Bodentemperatur verhält sich umgekehrt zur Traubentemperatur. Die schwarze Oberflächedes Schiefers mit der höchsten Bodentemperatur verursacht die niedrigsten Trauben -temperaturen (bedingt durch die geringste Reflektion von Energie) und der weiße Kalkstein diehöchsten Temperaturen (bedingt durch die stärkste Reflektion in die Traubenzone) währenddes Tages. Dies führt zu höheren Phenolwerten in Trauben von weißen Bodenoberflächen undniedrigen bei schwarzem Schiefer (Stoll et al. 2008).

3. Die Aromazusammensetzung von Riesling und weinbauliche Einflussfaktoren

In allen Weinbauregionen der Erde hat sich in den letzten 40 Jahren die Trauben zu sammen -setzung verändert, was insbesondere die Zucker- und damit die potenziellen Alkohol gehaltebetrifft. Die Hauptgründe sind neben den klimatischen Veränderungen auch ein verbessertesweinbauliches Management, vor allem bei der Laubwandgestaltung bzw. bei den Laubarbeiten.Die größte Rolle kann man aber eindeutig der generellen Erwärmung zuschreiben. So ist derdurchschnittliche natürliche Alkoholgehalt über die Periode 1994–2013 ca. 26% höher als inder Periode 1970–1986. Gleichzeitig sanken die Säurewerte beim Riesling von durch schnittlich15,5 g/L, 1970–1986, auf ca. 9g/L,1990–2013. Obwohl nicht quantifizierbar, gingen mit diesenVeränderungen im Reifegrad auch Veränderungen anderer Inhaltsstoffe einher.

Das Aromaspektrum bei Riesling ist sehr ausgeprägt, aber es gibt einige Schlüssel -komponenten. So sind z.B. die Monoterpene Linalool, Geraniol und Nerol für blumige, orangen-ähnliche Aromaeindrücke verantwortlich. Citronellol und �-Terpineol (beides ebenfalls Terpene)sind verantwortlich für Citrus-Aromen; �-Ionon und �-Damascenon (beides C13-Nori -soprenoide) führen zu Eindrücken von tropischen Früchten, Apfel, Aprikose und Pfirsich;3-Mercaptohexylacetat (ein Thiol mit einem Geruchsschwellenwert von nur 0,4 ng/L) pro-duziert ein Maracuja-Passionsfruchtaroma, während 3-Mercaptohexanol (Geruchsschwellen -wert 60ng/L), 3-Sulfanylhexan-1-ol und 2-Phenylethanol, für Eindrücke von Grapefruit,

Hans Reiner Schultz

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Abb. 1

Einfluss verschiedenfarbigenOberflächenmaterials auf dieBodenoberflächentemperatur zwischen 14 und 15 Uhr. Die Temperatur wurde mit einerWärmebildkamera innerhalb derRebzeile gemessen (4. 8. 2007). Die Balkenlänge repräsentiert dieMaximum- und Minimumtemperaturvon sonnenexponierten und beschatteten Zonen. Die durch-schnittlichen Temperaturen sinddurch horizontale Linien gekenn-zeichnet. Die Lufttemperatur betrug31.4 °C während des Messzeitraums(Stoll et al. 2008).

Melone und Blütenaromen (Rosen) verantwortlich gemacht werden. �-Damascenon scheintein potenter Aromastoff für verschiedene Rot- und Weißweinsorten zu sein, da man lineareKorrelationen zwischen dem Gehalt dieses Stoffes und der sensorisch bewerteten Weinqualitätgefunden hat (Ristic et al. 2010) und weil er als „Geschmacksverstärker“ für andere Aroma kom -ponenten fungieren kann, selbst wenn die eigene Konzentration unter dem Geruchs schwellen -wert liegt (Pineau et al. 2007). Bei Riesling scheint die Konzentration von �-Damascenon höherzu sein, wenn der Bodenwassergehalt ausreichend ist und wenn die Trauben ausreichenderSonnenstrahlung ausgesetzt werden (Sack et al. 2010). Die Reaktion auf Belichtung scheintaber sehr variabel – und auch von der Sorte abhängig – zu sein (Ristic et al. 2010).

Neuere Erkenntnisse zeigen, dass die Konzentration von Trans-Zimtsäureethylester (TEC) hochmit der „Typizität“ von Riesling korreliert (Schüttler 2012). TEC ist keine Aromakomponente,aber ein geruchsaktiver Ester, der während der alkoholischen Gärung aus Zimtsäure gebildetwird. Zimtsäure kommt vor allem im Beerenfleisch vor und wird über den Phytopropanoid-Syntheseweg durch das Enzym PAL gebildet. Da PAL sowohl auf die Lichtmenge als auch aufdie Lichtqualität reagiert (siehe Kapitel 2 „Riesling und seine Böden“), besteht eine direkteVerbindung zum Traubenzonen-Mikroklima und zur Bodenfarbe.

Entblätterung steigert die Konzentration an TEC in Trauben und Wein im Vergleich zur nichtentblätterten Kontrolle. Allerdings hatte eine Zusatzbewässerung den gleichen Effekt(Schüttler 2012), was darauf hinweist, dass der Bodenwassergehalt ebenfalls eine Rolle in derempfundenen „Riesling-Typizität“ spielt. In allen Fällen steigt die Konzentration dieserKomponente während der Flaschenlagerung (Schüttler 2012). In der gleichen Studie fandSchüttler (2012) einen substantiellen Einfluss des Rebenwasserhaushalts und derTraubenzonen-Entblätterung auf die Konzentration von 3-Sulfanylhexan-1-ol (3SH), einemThiol, welches ebenfalls mit der Typizität von Riesling korrelierte, allerdings mit den AttributenMelone und Grapefruit in Verbindung gebracht wurde. Obwohl diese Verbindung erst währenddes Pressvorgangs bzw. der Gärung gebildet wird, gibt es einen offensichtlichen Zusammen -hang zu weinbaulichen Maßnahmen bzw. Standortfaktoren. So nahm die 3SH Konzentrationmit zunehmendem Wassermangel ab und stieg mit verbesserter Traubenbelichtung, obwohl dieletzte Reaktion weniger deutlich war (Schüttler 2012).

Einer der kontroversesten Aromakomponenten des Rieslings, vor allem in gealterten Weinen, istTDN (1,1,6-Trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphtalin), einem Norisoprenoid, verantwortlich für die soge-nannten „Petrol- bzw. Kerosinnoten“. Während in jungen Weinen die fruchtbasierten Noten beiRiesling eine große Rolle spielen und TDN, obwohl nicht nur bei Riesling vorkommend, zurKomplexität der Weine in niedrigen Konzentrationen beiträgt, kann der Geruchseindruck beihohen Konzentrationen überwältigend werden, wenn die Weine altern und das aromatische„Rückgrat“ sich verändert. TDN ist ein sehr potenter Aromastoff und ca. 50% der Bevölkerungist geruchssensibel für diese Komponente (Sacks et al. 2012). Bis vor kurzem wurde der Geruchs -schwellenwert für TDN bei 20µg/L angenommen, ein Wert, der in der letzten Zeit dramatischnach unten korrigiert wurde und derzeit bei nur 2µg/L angesiedelt wird (Black et al. 2012).


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Die Ursache für TDN und das resultierende Kerosinaroma ist schwierig zu verstehen und dieWissenschaft hat noch keine zufriedenstellende Erklärung. Generell steigen die TDN-Wertein Riesling Trauben (die Vorstufen liegen vor allem im Beerenfleisch) an, wenn die RebeTrockenheit, Hitze und Stickstoffmangel erfährt (Linsenmeier and Löhnertz 2007). Der Gehaltist mit der Zuckerkonzentration verbunden, deshalb steigt er mit zunehmender Reife, vor allemin warmen Klimaregionen. Allerdings spielen auch der Klon und der Hefestamm bei der TDN-Bildung eine Rolle (Sponholz and Hühn 1997), und die hohe Bildungsaktivität bei Riesling imVergleich zu anderen Rebsorten scheint durch das hohe Verhältnis der Vorstufen Betacarotinzu Lutein bedingt zu sein.

Hohe Temperaturen und Sonneneinstrahlung verstärken die TDN-Bildung (Marais et al. 1992).So führt eine Entblätterung zu deutlich höheren TDN-Werten als bei Schattentrauben (Sack etal. 2010). Andere Ergebnisse zeigen, dass die TDN-Werte bei hohen pH-Werten niedriger sind,was ein Grund dafür sein mag, dass Riesling Weine von der Mosel (niedriger pH-Wert) an-fälliger für die Ausbildung eines Kerosintons sind als Weine von anderen Regionen, was auchabhängig von der Stickstoff- und Kaliumversorgung ist. Neue Ergebnisse zeigen allerdings,dass es ein „phänologisches Fenster“ kurz nach der Blüte zu Anfang der Beerenentwicklung zugeben scheint, wenn direkte Sonneneinstrahlung die TDN-Konzentration im Wein nur gering-fügig beeinflusst (Kwasniewski et al. 2010, Schüttler 2012). Diese Resultate sind wichtig fürdie Entwicklung von Strategien, um Botrytis vorzubeugen (z.B. durch Entblätterung), gleich-zeitig aber das Risiko für eine überhöhte TDN-Bildung zu minimieren.

4. Weinbauliche Maßnahmen für große Weine

Unterschiedliche Bodentypen beeinflussen das Mikroklima eines Weinbergs und seinenBoden wasserhaushalt. Für viele Aromakomponenten scheint eine ausgewogene Wasser -versorgung die Synthese zu erhöhen, mit Ausnahme der Terpene (Linsenmeier and Löhnertz2007, Schüttler 2012). Deshalb hat die Wasserversorgung bzw. das Bodenmanagement wahr-scheinlich einen Einfluss auf die Balance zwischen Terpenen und Norisoprenoiden sowieThiolen, wie z.B. �-Damascenon und 3SH. Eine ausreichende Wasserversorgung, sei es durchnatürliche Niederschläge, Böden mit hoher Speicherkapazität oder eine Zusatzbewässerungverhindert ebenfalls die schnelle Bildung von TDN und anderen Alterungskomponenten desWeines (Schultz and Gruber 2005). Gerade die Wasserversorgung im Sommer wird aber in denmeisten Klimamodellen als zukünftig kritisch gesehen, da neben einer Reduzierung derNiederschläge auch eine höhere Verdunstung wahrscheinlich ist. Deshalb ist die richtige Wahlder Unterlage und der Pflanzdichte eine „Qualitätsentscheidung”, die diese Entwicklungen,zumindest zum Teil, abpuffern können. Abbildung 2 zeigt, wie die Durchwurzelungstiefe durcheine erhöhte Pflanzdichte innerhalb der Rebzeile verändert wird. Bei vergleichbaren Erträgenund Zuckergehalten verbessert das tiefere Wurzelsystem den Wasserhaushalt und dieAminosäurekonzentrationen im Most und führt zu besseren Weinqualitäten (Schultz 2005).

Hans Reiner Schultz

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Darüber hinaus ist festzuhalten, dass für die Produktion von hochwertigen Rieslingweinenein gezieltes Laubwandmanagement wichtig ist. Wenn eine Entblätterungsmaßnahme ausGründen der Risikominimierung gegenüber Botrytis erforderlich ist, dann sollte diese um dieBlüte oder nach der Veraison durchgeführt werden, um die spätere TDN-Bildung zu mini-mieren. Dies könnte auch die Bildung von Aromakomponenten fördern, die erst vor kurzem alsKomponenten identifiziert wurden, die zur „Typizität“ von Riesling beitragen, wie z.B. TEC und3SH. Eine Ertragsregulierung erscheint wichtig, aber große Weine müssen nicht notwendiger-weise mit extrem niedrigen Erträgen einhergehen, da eine starke Entfruchtung die Bildungvon kompakten Trauben und damit das Botrytisrisiko fördert. Ein Halbieren der Trauben hatsich als positiv für die Qualität und gleichzeitig für die Reduzierung der Botrytisanfälligkeiterwiesen. Der Lesezeitpunkt ist bei jeder Sorte entscheidend, bei Riesling wird mit sehr späterLese auch die Wahrscheinlichkeit einer starken TDN-Bildung gefördert (da an Zuckergehalt ge -koppelt), vor allem auf sauren Böden. Hier muss man mit Düngemaßnahmen entgegenwirken,die den pH-Werten erhöhen (z.B. Kalium). Entsprechend ist für Langlebigkeit und Balancehäufig nicht der späte Lesezeitpunkt entscheidend, vor allem in warmen Jahrgängen.


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Fig. 2

Veränderungen der Wurzellängen-dichte über das ganze Bodenprofil für zwei verschiedene Pflanzdichten in einem Geisenheimer RieslingWeinberg (auf 5C Unterlage). Bei gleicher Zeilenbreite von 2m lag der Stockabstand bei 0.6m (hohePflanzdichte, ca. 8330 Reben/ha) und 2.4m (geringe Pflanzdichte, ca.2.080 Reben/ha). Das Anschnitts -niveau pro m2 wurde für beideVarianten gleich gehalten. DieMessungen wurden 2005 durch-geführt, als der Weinberg 28-Jahre alt war (Viehauser und Adam 2006).

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BLACK C., FRANCIS L., HENSCHKE P., CAPONE D., ANDERSON S., DAY M., HOLT H., PEARSON W., HER-DERICH M., JOHNSON D. 2012. Aged Riesling and the development of TDN. Wine & Viticulture JournalSept./Oct., 20-26.

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FISCHER U. 2011. Making sense of Riesling and Terroir. TONG 9:30-36.

HAYMAN P.T., MCCARTHY M.G., SOAR C.J., SADRAS V.O. 2009. Addressing the tension between the chal-lenge of climate change and the adaptive capacity of the wine grape industry. In: Managing grapevinesin variable climates: the impact of temperature (eds. Sadras, V.O., C.J. Soar, P.T. Hayman, M.G. McCarthy).South Australian Research and Development Corporation, 184-204.

JONES G.V., DUCHÊNE E., TOMASI D., YUSTE J., BRASLAVSKA O., SCHULTZ H.R., MARTINEZ C.,BOSO S., LANGELLIER F., PERRUCHOT C., GUIMBERTEAU G. 2005. Changes in European WinegrapePhenology and Relationships with Climate. Proc. XIV GESCO Symposium, Geisenheim, Germany, 23.8.05-26.8.05, Vol. I, 55-61.

KENNY G.J., HARRISON P.A. 1992. The effects of climate variability and change on grape suitability inEurope. Journal of Wine Research, 3, 163-183.

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LINSENMEIER A.W. LÖHNERTZ O. 2007. Changes in Norisoprenoid Levels with Nitrogen fertilization inaged Vitis vinifera var. Riesling Wines. S. Afr. J. Enol. Vitic. 28, 17-24.

MARAIS J., WYK C.J., RAPP A. 1992. Effect of sunlight and shade on norisoprenoid levels in maturingWeisser Riesling and Chenin blanc grapes and Weisser Riesling wines. S. Afr. J. Enol. Vitic. 13, 23-32.

PINEAU B., BARBE J.-C., VAN LEEUWEN C., DUBOURDIEU D. 2007. Which impact for ß-Damascenone onred Wines Aromas? J. Agric. Food Chem. 55:4103-4108.

PETRIE P.R., SADRAS V.O. 2008. Advancement of grapevine maturity in Australia between 1993 and 2006:putative causes, magnitude of trends and viticultural consequences. Australian Journal of Grape andWine Research, 14, 33-45.

RISTIC R., BINDON K., FRANCIS L. I., HERDERICH M. J., ILAND P. G. 2010. Falvonoids and C13-norisopre-noids in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Shiraz: relationships between grape and wine composition, wine colour andwine sensory properties. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research 16: 369-388.

SADRAS V.O., SOAR C. J., PETRIE P.R. 2007. Quantification of time trends in vintage scores and their varia-bility for major wine regions of Australia. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research, 13, 117-123.

Hans Reiner Schultz

5. Literature | Literatur

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SADRAS V.O., STEVENS R.M., PECH J.M., TAYLOR E.J., NICHOLAS P.R., MCCARTHY M.G. 2007. Quanti fy -ing phenotypic plasticity of berry traits using an allometric-type approach: A case study on anthocyaninsand sugars in berries of Cabernet Sauvignon. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research, 13:72-80.

SADRAS, V.O., SOAR C.J. 2009. Shiraz vines maintain yield in response to a 2-4°C increase in maximumtemperature at key phenostages. European Journal of Agronomy, 31, 250-258.

SACK C., LAFONTAINE M., HEY M., SCHULTZ H.R. 2010. Einfluss von Entblätterung bei Riesling.Der Deutsche Weinbau 10: 12-15.

SACKS G.L., GATES M.J., FERRY F.X., LAVIN, E.H. KURTZ A.J., ACREE T.E. 2012. Sensory threshold of1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene (TDN) and concentrations in young Riesling and non-Rieslingwines. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 60:2998-3004.

SCHULTZ H.R. 2000. Climate Change and viticulture: A European perspective on climatology, carbondioxide and UV-B effects. Invited Review Paper.. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research 6:2-12.

SCHULTZ H.R. 2005. Pflanzdichte und Qualität. Wie hängt das zusammen? Das deutsche weinmagazin20/24: 23-27.

SCHULTZ H.R., GRUBER B.R. 2005. Bewässerung und "Terroir"- Ergänzung oder Gegensatz. Das deutscheweinmagazin 1/8: 24-28.

SCHÜTTLER A. 2012. Influencing factors on aromatic typicality of wines from Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling.Dissertation Université de Bordeaux – Justus-Liebig-Universität Gießen - Hochschule Geisenheim, 212 pp

SPONHOLZ W.-R., HÜHN T. 1997. Ageing of Wine: 1,1.6 Trimethyl-1.2-dihydronaphthalene (TDN) and2-Aminoacetophenone. Proceedings for the 4th International Symposium on Cool Climate Viticulture andEnology pp. VI-37-56.

STOCK M., GERSTENGARBE F.-W., KARTSCHALL T., WERNER P.C. 2005. Reliability of Climate ChangeImpact Assessments for Viticulture. Acta Horticulturae, 689, 29-39.

STOLL, M., STUEBINGER, M., LAFONTAINE, M., SCHULTZ, H.R. 2008. Radiative and thermal effects on fruitripening induced by differences in soil colour. VII Congrès International des terroirs, Agroscope Changins-Wädenswil, Switzerland, CD.

VAN LEEUWEN C., SCHULTZ H.R., GARCIA DE CORTEZAR-ATAURI I., DUCHÊNE E., OLLAT N., PIERI P.,BOIS B., GOUTOULY J-P., QUÉNOL H., TOUZARD J-M., MALHEIRO A.C., BAVARESCO L., DELROT S. 2013.Why climate change will not dramatically decrease viticultural suitability in main wine-producing areasby 2050. PNAS, 110: E3051-E3052; doi:10.1073/pnas.1307927110

VIEHAUSER Y., ADAM A. (2006) Einfluss der Pflanzdichte auf die Wurzelverteilung und die Nährstoff kon -zen tration in unterschiedlichen Bodenschichten. Diplomarbeit, Fachbereich Geisenheim, FachhochschuleWiesbaden, 206pp

WEBB L.B., WHETTON P.H., BARLOW E.W.R. 2007. Modelled impact of future climate change on thephenology of grapevines in Australia. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research, 13, 165-175.

WEBB L.B., WHETTON P.H., BARLOW E.W.R. 2008. Climate change and wine grape quality in Australia.Climate Research, 36, 99-111.

WEBB L.B., WHETTON P. H., BHEND J., DARBYSHIRE R., BRIGGS P.R., BARLOW E.W.R. 2012. Earlier wine-grape ripening driven by climatic warming and drying and management practices. Nature ClimateChange 2, 259-264.

WOLFE D.W., SCHWARTZ M.D., LAKSO A.N., OTSUKI Y., POOL R.M., SHAULIS N.J. 2005. Climate chan-ge and shifts in spring phenology of three horticultural woody perennials in north-eastern USA.International Journal of Biometeorology, 49, 303-309.

Literature | Literatur

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Moderation: Giuseppe Lauria

WINE TASTING II

The“Grand Cru” Couple from VDP.GROSSE LAGE: Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese

Das„Grand Cru”-Paar: Riesling-Grosse Gewächse und Spätlesen aus VDP.GROSSER LAGE

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Moderation: Giuseppe Lauria

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Bernd Glauben

Notes

Riesling – THE distinguished German variety (“Queen of the Grapes“): noble and ambitious

Riesling stands alongside Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc as one of the classic white winegrapes

“The German Superstar" and also important at the international level

Terroir: hardly any grape varietal reflects its origins and soil so perfect

Crafts: Riesling reflects perfect the vintner’s signature

Traditional and modern times: Riesling was sold as the most expensive wine worldwidearound 1900 – but also “cheap and sweet” – present “Riesling Renaissance”

“Light wine” from northern climate

Tremendous segments: Just Riesling shows such a variation of origin and tasting styles(elegant and sustainable, self-confident acid and natural sweetness, dry up to noble sweet)

No high-quality wine list without Riesling

Riesling’s diversity in need of explanation

Multiple compatible: perfect companion of any single menu course and an entire menu

Could accompany easy diverse styles of the global cuisine

A perfect soloist (“wine by glass”) and aperitif

Feels well at the top gastronomy as well as at the “scene”

Riesling is ritzy and also trendy, young, dynamic

The image change of German wine thanks to Riesling

Panel Discussions“The Sommelier’s Experience with Riesling”

Discussion

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Stichworte

Riesling – eine Profilrebsorte („Königin der Reben“): edel und anspruchsvoll

Mit Chardonnay und Sauvignon Blanc zählt Riesling zu den klassischen Weißweinsortender Welt

„Der deutsche Superstar“ und auch international mehr und mehr von Bedeutung

Terroir: kaum eine Rebsorte spiegelt ihre Herkunft so perfekt wie der Riesling

Handwerk: Riesling ist ein idealer Spiegel für die Handschrift des Winzers

Tradition und Moderne: Riesling vom Rhein und seinen Nebenflüssen der teuerste Weißweinweltweit um 1900 – aber auch „cheap and sweet“ – derzeitige „Riesling Renaissance“

„Leichtwein“ aus nördlichem Klimat

Facettenreich: kaum eine Rebsorte zeigt eine solche Bandbreite und Vielfalt nach Herkunftund Geschmackstypen: elegant und nachhaltig, selbstbewusste Säure und Fruchtsüße,trocken bis edelsüß

Keine anspruchsvolle Weinkarte kommt an dieser Rebsorte vorbei

Seine Diversität macht ihn aber auch erklärungsbedürftig – der Sommelier

„Vielfach kompatibel“: idealer Begleiter im Menü zum einzelnen Gang, aber auch zumgesamten Menü

Kann diverse Küchenstile der „Weltküche“ spielend begleiten

Aber auch Solist an der Bar („Riesling by glass“) und ideal zum Aperitif

Riesling fühlt sich in der Spitzengastronomie genauso wohl wie im Szenerestaurant

Er ist nicht nur nobel, er ist ebenso „trendy“, jung und dynamisch

Der Imagewandel des deutschen Weins ist vor allem dem Riesling zu verdanken

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Diskussion„Riesling am Gast – Der Sommelier“

Bernd Glauben

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Diskussion

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Abstract

Leaf Area to Fruit Weight ratio was investigated into its effects on Riesling, and whether chan -ging this ratio could delay its maturation. Leaf Area was reduced using various manual as wellas machine defoliation treatments post-flowering, differing in their position of leaf removal andtheir intensity. Also, application of antitranspirant agent testing for its impact on the transpi-ration to the vine’s canopy was trialled. Large reductions in the ratio of Leaf Area to Fruit Weightsignificantly reduced the sugar content of Riesling berries at harvest. The specific im pacts weredependent on the timing of carbohydrate limitation, the position of defoliation, and its level.

Defoliation by machine (MDC: mechanically defoliated canopy) revealed decreases in the rate ofmaturity however was not as effective in delaying the maturation period as the manual methodsSSP (severe summer pruning) and BZD (bunch zone defoliation). Proportion of leaves from lateralshoots to those from main shoots was increased most in MDC, and its impacts on grape compo -sition and rate of maturation varied from a similar treatment SSP. Maturity sampling revealedthe impacts of each treatment on the maturing berries. For SSP veraison was delayed by approxi -ma tely two weeks, and all other treatments revealed reductions in must sugar content at harvest.

Berry size was not significantly reduced. Developing a better understanding ofcanopycharac teris ticswillallow refinements of future vineyardmanagement strategies toadapt better toseasonal changes.

Background

Similar to many other crops, in grapevines the trend of warming has advanced the pheno-logical development. This affects all phenological stages (Stoll et al., 2010) with implicationson harvest date as well as for fruit quality and wine style. With budburst occurring earlier inthe season, the period of maturation also advances into the part of the year where climaticconditions are usually the warmest. As extreme weather events are likely to become morefrequent (IPCC, 2007), intense heatwaves or heavy precipitation events combined with awarmer maturation period will become more conducive to a loss in fruit quality. If ripening fruitavoids potentially damaging weather events, warmer conditions are likely to exacerbate sugarconcentrations, which could result in a finished wine which has a compromised flavour profileand an unbalanced level of alcohol.

Strategic planning aimed at optimising the vineyard for future climate change, could benefit inthe short-term, through application of strategies which adapt the vine to the conditions in that

Viticultural Strategies to Manipulate BerryMaturation in Vitis vinifera L.cv. Riesling

Manfred Stoll | Vanessa Stöber | Susanne Tittmann

season. Earlier budburst indicating an earlier maturation period, could direct the vine-growersto strategies which aim to delay berry ripening, through modifications to the ratio between leafarea of the vine and the weight of the fruit. Such strategies take advantage of the phenologi-cal stage of the onset of berry growth, post-flowering, where the berry advances through rapidcell division (Ollat et al., 2002). Limitations of carbohydrates at this point will slow berry growth(Ollat and Gaudillere, 1998), which is achieved through significant reductions in vine leaf area.

The successful implementation of treatments such as the aforementioned requires theknowledge of likely impacts of leaf area reductions, both on the vine itself and the composi-tion of the fruit at maturity. These impacts depend on timing of the reduction and position onthe vine of leaf removal, as to their effect. Alternatively to leaf removal, the application of ananti-transpirant substance to the vine’s canopy may yield similar results (Palliotti et al., 2010).All of these impacts depend on various other factors, such as the region and its local climaticconditions, the choice of rootstock and its vigour, the cultivar and the intended quality levelof the harvested fruit (Coombe and Dry, 2004).

Acknowledgements

This work was largely funded by the Federal Ministry of Food, Agriculture and Consumer Protection and theFederal Office for Agriculture and Food (BLE) [contract: 2810HS018, �viticultural practices to reduce sugarcontent in the field�]. The expert technical support of Sabrina Samer, Anette Rheinberger as well as BernhardGaubatz (all Geisenheim University) is gratefully acknowledged. We would also like to thank the studentsMathias Scheidweiler, Gregor Barth, Simon Scheurer and Johann Henschke who contributed through theirtheses to the project.

Viticultural strategies to manipulate berry maturation in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling

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Literature

Coombe, B.G. and DRY, P.R. 2004. Viticulture 2, Adelaide, Australian Industrial Publishers.

IPCC 2007. Summary for Policymakers. In: Climate Change 2007: The Physical Science Basis. Contributionof Working Group I to the Fourth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change[Solomon, S., D. Qin, M. Manning, Z. Chen, M. Marquis, K. B. Averyt, M. Tignor and H. L. Miller (eds.)].Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, United Kingdom and New York, NY, USA.

Ollat, N., Diakou-Verdin, P., Carde, J. P., Barrieu, F., Gaudillere, J. P. and Moing, A. 2002. Grape berry deve-lopment: A review. J. Int. Sci. Vigne Vin 36: 109-131.

Ollat, N. and Gaudillere, J. P. 1998. The effect of limiting leaf area during stage I of berry growth on develop-ment and composition of berries of Vitis vinifera L. cv. Cabernet Sauvignon. Am. J. Enol. Vitic. 49: 251-258.

Palliotti, A., Poni, S., Berrios, J. G. and Bernizzoni, F. 2010. Vine performance and grape composition as affec-ted by early-season source limitation induced with anti-transpirants in two red Vitis vinifera L. cultivars.Austr. J. Grape and Wine Res. 16:426-433.

Stoll, M., Lafontaine, M. and Schultz, H. R. 2010. Possibilities to reduce the velocity of berry maturationthrough various leaf area to fruit ratio modifications in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling. Progrès Agricole etViticole, 127: 68-71.

Dr. Manfred Stoll (Dipl. Ing.; Dipl. Biol.)

Current Head Department of General and Organic Viticulture, Geisenheim University


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Für den Weinbau stellt das Klima die primäre Bestimmungsgröße für die Produktivität und dieQualität dar. Der Klimawandel bringt neue Herausforderungen für den Weinbau mit sich underfordert eine angepasste Bewirtschaftung. Die phänologischen Entwicklungsphasen der Rebehaben sich in allen deutschen Anbaugebieten in den vergangenen Jahren deutlich nach vorneverlagert. Insbesondere wärmere Winter- und Frühjahrsmonate führen zu einer Verfrühungdes Austriebs mit beschleunigter Entwicklung der Reben, Vorverlegung der Blüte und einemfrüheren Eintritt in die Reifungsphase (25°Oe). Der im Vergleich zu 1980 um ca. 16 Tage nachvorne verschobene frühere Eintritt in die Reifungsphase ist auch in Hinblick auf die Trauben -gesundheit von Bedeutung. Eine frühzeitige Zuckereinlagerung in einem Zeitraum mit einerhöheren Wahrscheinlichkeit von wärmeren Temperaturen verstärkt das Risiko einer rascherenFäulnisentwicklung (z.B. Extremjahr Weinlese 2006).

Der Gestaltung der Laubwand durch weinbauliche Bewirtschaftungsmaßnahmen kommtzukünftig eine wichtige Rolle zu. Hierdurch wird sowohl die potentielle Zuckereinlagerungdurch die photosynthetische Leistung als auch die Bildung von Aromastoffen durch Licht -intensität und Temperatur beeinflusst (Sack et al. 2010). Die Wahl der Rebsorten und Unter -lagen, unterschiedlichste Bewirtschaftungspraktiken und Produktionssysteme sowie die mikro-klimatischen oder standortbedingten Unterschiede bieten dem Winzer ein breites Instrumen -tarium und Gestaltungsfreiräume. Dennoch ist es eine Herausforderung seitens der Produktion,je nach erwünschtem Weinstil durch Anpassung der Bewirtschaftung eine Ausgewogenheitzwischen der Zucker- und Säurekonzentration sowie der Art und Menge der Inhalts- undAromaausprägung zu erzielen.

Zuckereinlagerung in die Traube

Die Photosynthese stellt den wichtigsten pflanzlichen Prozess auf der Erde dar, bei der aus ener-gieärmeren Stoffen mit Hilfe von Lichtenergie energiereiche Stoffe gebildet werden. DerPhotosyntheseapparat und damit das primäre Photosyntheseenzym, die Ribulose-bisphosphat-carboxylase/oxygenase, unterliegen einem kontinuierlichen Ab- bzw. Aufbau von Enzym -komponenten bzw. Teilen der Begleitpigmentstruktur. Eine der wichtigsten Komponenten desPhotosystems II, das so genannte D1-Protein, hat z. B. eine Auf- und Abbaurate von nur zweiStunden (Baker et al. 2004). Wenn auch der „Umbau“ anderer Komponenten des Photosynthese -apparates deutlich langsamer vonstatten geht (Tage bzw. Wochen), so liegt genau hier dieAnpassungsmöglichkeit an sich verändernde Umgebungsbedingungen (z.B. Temperatur). Das

Weinbauliche Strategien zur Verzögerungder Beerenreife bei der Rebsorte Riesling

Temperaturoptimum für die Photosynthese ist sehr variabel. Innerhalb einer Vegetationsperiodekann das Optimum zwischen 18°C und 34°C Blatttemperatur liegen, je nach Zeitraum sowieTemperaturbedingungen, an die sich der Photosyntheseapparat anpassen konnte (Schultz 2003).

Neben der CO2-Assimilation kommt dem Zuckertransport in die Traube eine sehr große Be-deu tung zu. Auch hier spielen Enzyme, wie z.B. die Invertase, eine große Rolle. Dieses Enzymspaltet Saccharose (Transportzucker) in die beiden Bestandteile Glucose (Traubenzucker) undFructose (Fruchtzucker). Da in den Stielchen der Beeren ab dem Weichwerden (Veraison) die fürden Wassertransport zuständigen Leitgefäße des Xylems ihre Funktion weitgehend einstellen(Findlay et al. 1987), erfolgt sowohl der Transport von Mineralstoffen, aber auch von Zuckerund Wasser, über die Transportelemente des Phloems. Wasser besitzt hierbei eine wichtigeTrägerfunktion und kann durch eine Erhöhung der Wasserverdunstungsrate der Beere auch dieZuckereinlagerung in gewissem Umfang erhöhen (Rebucci et al. 1997).

Blatt/Frucht-Verhältnis

In zahlreichen Untersuchungen hat sich gezeigt, dass das Blatt/Frucht-Verhältnis (BFV) einobjektives Maß für die Menge oder Güte des Lesegutes in Abhängigkeit von der dafür be-nötigten Blattfläche darstellt. Während in der Vergangenheit vielfach ein Ziel der Forschungdie Optimierung bzw. Maximierung des BFV in unseren Klimazonen war, um die Minimal -anforderungen an die Zuckerkonzentration zu erzielen, kann dieses Instrument unter wärme-ren Bedingungen auch zur Verzögerung der Reife genutzt werden. Das Problem, welches sichhier stellt, ist die Erzielung einer optimalen Traubenzusammensetzung bei niedrigeren Zucker -gehalten. Die Einlagerung und Biosynthese von sekundären Inhaltsstoffen, wie z.B. Aromenoder auch Anthocyane und Tannine verlaufen zwar zuckerabhängig, d.h. Zucker als Grund -baustein muss ausreichend vorhanden sein, andererseits sind diese Prozesse aber nicht an dieZuckereinlagerung gekoppelt und haben daher auch unterschiedliche Temperaturoptima.Während die Zuckerproduktion ein relativ hohes Temperaturoptimum erreichen kann, liegtdas Optimum für sekundäre Inhaltsstoffe teilweise deutlich niedriger (Mori et al. 2007),was bei einer Klimaänderung dazu führen wird, dass mit dem Erreichen eines gewissenNiveaus an sekundären Inhaltsstoffen immer höhere Zucker- und damit Alkoholwerte ein-hergehen. Dies ist letztendlich in warmen Weinbaugebieten (z.B. Kalifornien und Australien)zu beobachten.

Eine erhöhte Rebenbelastung (mehr Ertrag) wirkt sich reifeverzögernd aus. Entsprechendwerden hier Minimalschnittsysteme in der Zukunft Vorteile haben. Diese Strategie führt inMinimalschnittsystemen neben der Zuckerminderung auch zur Minderung der Trauben-botrytis. Problematisch wird die Strategie dann, wenn gesetzliche Rahmenbedingungen fürdie Produktion existieren, die einen Ertrag stark beschränken (z.B. Erstes Gewächs, Selektions -weine), denn eine sehr späte Ertragsregulierung bedingt automatisch einen hohen Reifegraddes entnommenen Traubenmaterials, was aus phytosanitären Gesichtspunkten nicht imWeinberg verbleiben sollte.

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Eine Reifeverzögerung könnte auch durch Änderung der Laubwandhöhe bzw. durchVerminderung der Assimilationsfläche, beispielsweise durch Entblätterung der Traubenzone,erzielt werden (Petrie et al. 2003). Hier ist immer zu bedenken, dass die Verminderung vonBlattfläche in der Traubenzone auch Sekundäreffekte mit sich bringen kann. Zum Beispielbewirkt die Reduzierung der Blattfläche zwar eine Verzögerung des Reifeverlaufs bei gleichzei-tig geringerem Beerengewicht, aber die durch diese Maßnahme erzielte stärkere Belichtung inder Traubenzone fördert auch z.B. die Synthese von Proteinen aus freien Aminosäuren, die dannin geringerer Konzentration im Most vorkommen können.

Neben der Manipulation des BFV durch Entblätterungsmaßnahmen in der Traubenzone mitAuswirkungen auf die Inhaltsstoffbildung oder einer Reduzierung der Laubwandhöhe und damiteinhergehend der Stimulation des Seitentriebwachstums kann die Entblätterung auch maschi-nell (hier: Entlauber Binger Seilzug) über der Traubenzone durchgeführt werden (Stoll et al.2010). Die Versuchsergebnisse haben gezeigt, dass hiermit eine jahreswitterungsabhängige,dynamische Anpassungsmöglichkeit in Abhängigkeit vom phänologischen Verlauf, z.B. desBlütezeitpunktes oder des Eintrittes in die Reifungsphase, möglich ist. Ein wesentlicher Unter -schied im Vergleich zur Reduzierung der Laubwandhöhe ist, dass die Triebspitze intakt bleibtund es nicht zu einer Stimulation des Seitentriebwachstums kommt.

Das Seitentriebwachstum wird u. a. durch Hormone kontrolliert. Hierbei spielt insbesondere dasVerhältnis aus dem in der Triebspitze gebildeten Auxin und dem in den Seitentrieben vorhan-denen Cytokinin eine wichtige Rolle. Das Auxin wird in der Triebspitze gebildet und RichtungWurzeln verteilt (Kotov und Kotova, 2000). Wird die Triebspitze durch Laubschnitt entfernt, sogeht die Quelle für Auxin verloren, das Verhältnis beider Hormone ändert sich und die in denKnospen vorhandenen Cytokinine stimulieren das Wachstum der Seitentriebe. In den eigenenVersuchen blieben bei einer frühen maschinellen Entblätterung über der Traubenzone dieTriebspitzen intakt. Das Trieblängenwachstum der Haupttriebe unterschied sich nicht von derunbehandelten Kontrolle und das Seitentriebwachstum war nicht stimuliert.

Erfolgt der Eingriff in das Blatt/Frucht-Verhältnis in einem frühen Stadium der Entwicklung(unmittelbar nach der Blüte), so werden die Beerengröße und damit die Traubengesundheitpositiv beeinflusst. In Jahren mit höheren Monatsmitteltemperaturen (Bsp. 2007 und 2009)wurde die Entblätterung auch beim Eintritt in die Reifungsphase wiederholt und auf dieseWeise die Zuckereinlagerung, bei sonst vergleichbaren Inhaltsstoffen, verlangsamt.

Sensorische Untersuchungen bei der Rebsorte Riesling haben gezeigt, dass die Weine aus derKontrolle (hohe Blattfläche, frühe Lese) deutlich „unreifer“ bewertet wurden als die Weine, diebei gleichem Mostgewicht, jedoch geringerer Blattfläche (Entblätterung über der Traubenzone)zu einem späteren Zeitpunkt geerntet wurden (Lesetermin 14 bis 21 Tage nach der Lese derKontrolle). Die gezielte Verlängerung des Lesezeitraumes in warmen Jahren kann auf Teilflächenein zusätzliches weinbauliches Werkzeug darstellen, um die Produktqualität zu steuern.


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Fazit

Der Photosyntheseapparat bietet zahlreiche Anpassungsmöglichkeiten bei sich änderndenUmweltbedingungen. Dies können sich die Winzer zunutze machen und durch gezielteEingriffe, hier in Form von Entblätterungsmaßnahmen über der Traubenzone dargestellt, dasBlatt/Frucht-Verhältnis beeinflussen. Dadurch ist es möglich, dynamisch auf die Jahres -witterung einzugehen. Dies kann insbesondere in Jahren mit einer sehr früh einsetzenden Blüteoder einem raschen Eintritt in die Reifungsphase zu einer verlangsamten Zuckereinlagerungbei sonst vergleichbaren Inhaltsstoffen sowie der Vermeidung einer zu starken Besonnung derTraubenzone in der Weinbergsbewirtschaftung angewendet werden.

Danksagung

Die Autoren bedanken sich bei Mathias Scheidweiler, Gregor Barth (beide ehem. Hochschule RheinMain –Fachbereich Geisenheim), Simon Scheurer und Johann Henschke (beide M. Sc. EuroVinifera) sowie BernhardGaubatz (Institut für allgemeinen und ökologischen Weinbau, HSGM) für die sehr gute Zusammenarbeitund Versuchsdurchführung. Die Förderung des Vorhabens (2808HS022) erfolgte aus Mitteln des Bundes -ministeriums für Ernährung, Landwirtschaft und Verbraucherschutz (BMELV) aufgrund eines Beschlussesdes deutschen Bundestages. Die Projektträgerschaft erfolgt über die Bundesanstalt für Landwirt schaft undErnährung (BLE) im Rahmen des Programms zur Innovationsförderung.

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Findlay N, Oliver KJ, Nii N und Coombe BG (1987). Solute accumulation by grape pericarp cells. IV.Perfusion of pericarp apoplast via the pedicel and evidence for xylem malfunction in ripening berries. J.Exp. Bot. 38, 668-679.

Kotov AA and Kotova LM (2000). The contents of auxins and cytokinins in pea internodes as related to thegrowth of lateral buds. Journal of Plant Physiology 156, 438-448.

Mori K, Goto-Yamamoto N, Kitayama M and Hashizume K (2007). Loss of anthocayanins in red-wine grapeunder high temperature. Journal of Experimental Botany, 58, 1935-1945.

Petrie PR, Trought MCT, Howell GS and Buchan GD (2003). The effect of leaf removal and canopy heighton whole-vine gas exchange and fruit development of Vitis vinifera L. Sauvignon Blanc. Functional PlantBiology 30, 711-717.

Rebucci B, Poni S, Intrieri C, Magnani E and Lakso AN (1997). Effects of manipulated grape berry transpi-ration on post-veraison sugar accumulation. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research 3, 57-65.

Sack C, Lafontaine M, Hey M und Schultz HR (2010). Weinbau - Einfluss von Entblätterung bei Riesling.Der Deutsche Weinbau 10, 12-15.

Schultz, HR(2003).Extension of a Farquhar model for grapevines (cvs. Riesling and Zinfandel) for light environ -ment, phenology and leaf age induced limitations of photosynthesis. Functional Plant Biology, 30, 673-687.

Stoll M, Lafontaine M and Schultz HR (2010). Possibilities to reduce the velocity of berry maturation throughvarious leaf area to fruit ratio modifications inVitis vinifera L.Riesling. Progrès Agricole et Viticole127,68-71.

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Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route

Riesling von Donau, Rhein, Nahe und Mosel: Die europäische Riesling-Schiene

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Monika Christmann

Where is the optimum?

Various international studies could proof increasing alcohol contents during the last years.Climate change, but also improved viticultural, microbiological and enological strategies areresponsible for this phenomenon.

The influence of alcohol on the wine’s sensory character is controversially discussed. Whilealcohol can increase the mouth feel of a wine in appositive way at the same time alcohol canit mask desired aromas and the wines appear to be bitter.

So how can we achieve the optimum alcohol content of a wine?

A federal German research project under leadership of Hochschule Geisenheim investigated theproblems arising from elevated alcohol levels.

There are various approaches to reduce the alcohol content of a wine in the cellar. Besidesmicrobiological treatments there are several physical treatments available that can reduce thealcohol content precisely.

The glucose oxidase enzyme (GOX) transforms the must’s glucose into gluconic acid. Vintnerscould also choose yeasts with a lower alcohol production yield. Instead of the common yield of47,5% and more, such yeasts produce considerably less alcohol whereas more side productsare formed. During the selection of such yeasts the sensorial influence is besides the loweralcohol yield, a major selection criteria. Another approach is the Pasteur-effect. In aerobicconditions sugar contents below 5 g/l are converted into water and CO2 and not like usuallyinto ethanol and CO2. It is important to monitor the must addition carefully to keep the sugarcontent below 5 g/l.

In the field of enology there are several physical processes legal to reduce the alcohol contentof a wine. Already before fermentation, one can correct the potential alcohol content. Theso-called Redux® treatment uses the coupling of two membrane processes to reduce the sugarcontent in a must. A highly sugar-containing fraction is separated more or less selectively fromthe initial must. The potential negative influences of excessive alcohol contents on alcoholicand malolactic fermentation are reduced.

How to Optimize the Alcohol Content of Riesling Wines?

At wine stage, the alcohol level can be reduced by separation of the alcohol by membranesor distillation.

During the osmotic distillation, the wine passes a membrane contactor in counter flow to gasfree water. The micro-porous, hydrophobic nature of that membrane enables just the passageof the volatile components, that afterwards dissolve in the strip water on the other side ofthe membrane. Numerous membrane contactors are already in use in the wine industry. Themain application is gas management of wines but these units can also be used for partialalcohol reduction.

The osmotic distillation can also be coupled with a previous reverse osmosis treatment toreduce the alcohol content.

To reduce the alcohol content by distillation or rectification, a subset is dealcoholized sever-ely under vacuum and blended with the initial lot. Appropriate plants exist since more then100 years. The distillation under vacuum reduces the thermal load of the wine.

A special type of rectification is the Spinning Cone Column (SCC). The principle to remove thealcohol is the same as the usual rectification under vacuum. The SCC caused a sensation inthe wine industry, as it was said to be able to fragment the wine selectively in desired andundesired aroma components. This is not the case! The separation of aroma components justhappens according to its volatility. The pre-run of that distillation contains several undesiredand unpleasant aroma components. In a usual distillation the pre-run would be separated fromthe heart cut. Modern vacuum distillation plants for vacuum rectification are also equippedwith aroma traps that catch very volatile components out of the distillate and recycle it tothe alcohol free wine.

Besides economical questions, the wine industry is highly interested in sensory influencesby the partial alcohol reduction. The first goal of our research was, how the alcohol reductioninfluences the sensory properties of a wine. Extensive tests showed that an alcohol reductionby 2% vol. could not be differed significantly from the initial wine. Also between the dif fe renttreatments, no significant difference could found for an alcohol reduction by 2% vol. Here itis necessary to notice, that the several treatments have to conducted correct and gently.

If a wine was reduced by more than 2% vol., first sensory deviations get noticeable. Generally,the partial alcohol reduction slightly reduced the wine’s fruitiness, sweetness and bitterness.The perceived acidity was raised with lower alcohol contents. Globally the panelists coulddetect the treatment according to the perceived alcohol content. The attribute “body/fullness”was changed the most with the treated Rieslings.

Wine with reduced alcohol contents clearly show a lower perception of body/fullness. Severalenological treatments are known that can raise the body and fullness of a wine. The “sur-lie”storage, malolactic fermentation and residual sugar can help to balance that reduction.

Monika Christmann

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How to optimize the alcohol content of Riesling wines?

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Fig. 1

Influence of the alcohol reduction on selected wine attributes (n=14+21 �=5%)

Fig. 2

Deviation of the panelist’s preference in increasing, decreasing and randomized order (n=3x14)

A further topic of our sensory investigation was the Sweet Spot Theory. This theory implies thatevery wine has an optimum alcohol content that suits it the best. In each of the tastings withwines of the varieties Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Regent and Pinot Noir no clear pre-ference was found for a certain alcohol content. The panelists could not find a commonly pre-ferred alcohol spot within a range of 3%vol. difference of the samples. Especially the tastingswith the Riesling showed a wide spread in preference, as the example in figure 2 clearly shows.So the various panelists had different opinions which alcohol content works best for Rieslingwines. These results proof why there are so many successfully styles of Riesling worldwide.

2011 Riesling 14,6% vol.

2012 Riesling

Prof. Dr. Monika Christmann

Head of Department for Oenology and Wine Technology and Head of the Winery, Geisenheim University

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Monika Christmann

Wo liegt das Optimum?

Zahlreiche Studien belegen weltweit steigende Alkoholgehalte in den letzten Jahren. Nebendem Klimawandel ist auch die Optimierung von weinbaulichen, mikrobiologischen sowiekellerwirtschaftlichen Praktiken dafür verantwortlich.

Der sensorische Einfluss von Alkohol im Wein ist sicherlich kontrovers zu sehen. Zum einenverleiht der Alkohol dem Wein Körper und verdeckt ungewünschte Aromen, aber andererseitsmaskieren überhöhte Alkoholgehalte typische Aromen und lassen die Weine brandig wirken.

Wie lässt sich nun der Alkoholgehalt von Wein optimieren?

Ein entsprechendes deutschlandweites Verbundvorhaben unter der Leitung der HochschuleGeisenheim hat sich in den vergangenen Jahren mit der Vermeidung von überhöhten Alkohol -gehalten beim Wein befasst.

Um den Alkoholgehalt beim Wein zu verringern, sind verschiedene Ansätze im Keller denkbar.Neben mikrobiologischen Praktiken sind eine Reihe von Anlagen am Markt, die durch physika-lische Verfahren den Alkoholgehalt gezielt reduzieren können.

Durch die Zugabe des Enzyms Glucoseoxidase (GOX) wird die vorhandene Glucose in Glucon -säure umgewandelt. Ebenfalls ist es möglich auf Hefen zurückzugreifen, die eine geringereAlkoholausbeute anstatt der üblichen ca.47,5% und mehr haben. Zwar bilden diese Hefendeutlich weniger Alkohol, aber andere Gärungsnebenprodukte können vermehrt entstehen.Bei der Selektion solcher Hefen steht neben der geringeren Alkoholausbeute die sensorischeEignung an erster Stelle. Um reduzierte Alkoholgehalte zu erzielen, ist es auch möglich, einenTeil des Zuckers durch den sog. Pasteur-Effekt gezielt zu veratmen. In Gegenwart von Sauer -stoff werden Zuckergehalte von unter 5 g/l von der Hefe in CO2 und Wasser veratmet und nichtwie üblich in Alkohol umgewandelt. Dabei ist die Mostzufuhr so zu steuern, dass in der hefe-haltigen Suspension der Zuckergehalt unter 5 g/l bleibt.

Aus kellerwirtschaftlicher Sicht sind verschiedene physikalische Verfahren zugelassen, um denAlkoholgehalt zu reduzieren. Bereits vor der Gärung ist es möglich, den späteren Alkoholgehaltzu korrigieren. Das im Markt bereits vorhandene Redux® Verfahren ermöglicht es, durch die

Wie optimiert man den Alkoholgehalt von Rieslingweinen?

Kopplung von zwei Filtrationsschritten den Zuckergehalt im Most gezielt zu reduzieren. Demvorgeklärte Most wird hierbei mehr oder weniger selektiv eine stark zuckerhaltige Fraktionabgetrennt. Dadurch sind mögliche negative Einflüsse von exzessiven Alkoholgehalten auf dieGärung und einen evtl. späteren biologischen Säureabbau reduziert.

Im Weinstadium wird der Alkoholgehalt verringert indem man den Alkohol durch Membran -verfahren oder Destillation teilweise abtrennt.

Bei der osmotischen Destillation wird der Wein im Gegenstrom zu entgastem Wasser in einenMembrankontaktor geleitet. Die mikroporöse, hydrophobe Eigenschaft der Membran ermöglichtnur einen Übergang der flüchtigen Stoffe, die anschließend im Stripwasser in Lösung gehen.Zahlreiche Membrankontaktoren sind bereits in der Branche vorrangig zum Gasmanagementzu finden, die aber auch zur teilweisen Alkoholreduzierung genutzt werden können.

Es ist auch denkbar, durch die Kombination von Umkehrosmose und anschließender osmo-tischer Destillation den Alkoholgehalt zu reduzieren.

Soll dem Wein durch Destillation / Rektifikation teilweise der Alkohol entzogen werden, sowird eine Teilmenge unter Vakuum destilliert. Entsprechende Anlagen sind bereits seitüber 100 Jahren bekannt. Durch die Destillation unter Vakuum wird die thermische Belastungreduziert.

Eine Sonderform der Rektifikation stellt die Spinning Cone Column (SCC), oder auch Schleuder -kegelkolonne genannt, dar. Das Prinzip der Alkoholabtrennung ist das Gleiche wie bei derRektifikation unter Vakuum. Aufsehen erregte die SCC in der Weinbranche, weil man ihrnachsagte, sie könne Weine gezielt in gewünschte Aromakomponenten zerlegen. Dies ent-spricht nicht der Realität. Die Abtrennung durch die Spinning Cone erfolgt lediglich nachFlüchtigkeit. Im Vorlauf der Destillation finden sich eine Reihe von unerwünschten Aroma -stoffen, warum man bei einer üblichen Destillation auch den Vorlauf vom Hauptlauf abtrennt.Moderne Anlagen zur Vakuumrektifikation haben ebenfalls Einrichtungen, um die besondersflüchtigen Komponenten aus dem Destillat zu entfernen und dem alkoholfreien Wein wiederzuzuführen.

Neben wirtschaftlichen Fragen steht für die Weinbranche natürlich auch der sensorischeEinfluss der teilweisen Alkoholreduzierung im Vordergrund. Erster Gegenstand der Unter -suchungen war es, wie sich eine Alkoholreduzierung auf die Sensorik auswirken kann. Inausgiebigen Verkostungen konnte bei einer Alkoholreduzierung um 2%vol. kein signifikanterUnter schied zum Ausgangswein festgestellt werden. Auch wurden die verschiedenenVerfahren zur Alkoholreduzierung um 2% vol. gegeneinander verglichen. Hier zeigte sichkeine signifikante Abweichung der verschiedenen Verfahren zueinander. Allerdings ist dabeivorauszusetzen, dass die jeweiligen Verfahren stets sachgemäß und produktschonend an-gewendet werden.


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Wurde den Weinen mehr als 2% vol. entzogen, so machten sich erste Veränderungen bemerk-bar. Generell wurde ersichtlich, dass durch die teilweise Alkoholreduzierung die Fruchtigkeit,Süße und Bitterkeit leicht reduziert wurden die Säurewahrnehmung gesteigert wurde. Globalkonnten die Verkoster den Eingriff der Alkoholreduzierung klar am Alkoholgehalt festmachen.Am deutlichsten wurde das Attribut Körper bzw. Fülle beim Riesling verändert.

Weine mit deutlich weniger Alkohol verfügen also über einen geringeren Körper. In derWeinbereitung sind jedoch eine Reihe von Praktiken bekannt, die dem Wein mehr Körper ver-leihen können. Solche Maßnahmen können sein: „Sur lie“ Ausbau, biologischer Säureabbauoder das Belassen von Restsüße.

Ein weiterer wichtiger Punkt der sensorischen Untersuchungen war es, die „Sweet-Spot-Theorie“ zu überprüfen. Diese Theorie besagt, dass jeder Wein einen spezifischen Alkoholgehalthat, der am Besten zu ihm passt. In den jeweiligen Verkostungen mit den Rebsorten Müller-Thurgau, Weißburgunder, Riesling, Regent und Spätburgunder zeigte sich, wenn die jeweiligenProben in einem Korridor mit 3% vol. Alkoholunterschied verteilt wurden, dass keine klarePräferenz für einen bestimmten Alkoholgehalt gefunden werden konnte. Gerade bei derRebsorte Riesling wich die Präferenz der jeweiligen Prüfer sehr stark voneinander ab, wie dasBespiel in Abbildung 2 zeigt. Folglich haben die Verkoster gerade beim Riesling eine unter-schiedliche Vorstellung, welcher Alkoholgehalt präferiert wird. Diese Ergebnisse bestätigendie zahlreichen Stilarten des Rieslings weltweit.

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Abb. 1

Einfluss derAlkoholreduzierung auf ausgesuchteWeinattribute (n=14+21 �=5%)

2011er Riesling 14,6% vol.


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Abb. 2

Verteilung der Prüfer -präferenz in aufsteigender,absteigender und randomisierter Reihenfolge(n=3x14)

2012er Riesling

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Moderation: Caro Maurer MW

WINE TASTING IV

Riesling and Aging Potential

Riesling und Reifepotential

IV 1

IV 2

IV 3

IV 4

IV 5

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WINE TASTING IV

IV 6

IV 7

IV 8

IV 9

IV 10

IV 11

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Moderation: Caro Maurer MW

IV 12

III 13

III 14

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WINE TASTING IV

IV 18

III 19

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Few words better capture the spirit of the last ten years than 'revolution.' The last five years inparticular have seen an incredible amount of lasting changes to the internet! And while someindividuals are still preoccupied with discovering the so-called 'Web 2.0' – little more than cavedrawings by current technological standards – the rest of us have long since arrived in themobile age. Things have moved much faster than I ever would have expected. And whilethe developments are far from complete, they have of course affected the wine world as well.Wine has indeed 'gone digital,' despite, or rather in spite of, a contingent reluctant to acknow -ledge this changing of the guard.

Even in this day and age, some still try to conduct their business as it has always been done –with more than a hint of secrecy and back room deals. Intense territorial battles are wagedregularly for the authority to proclaim and refute certain 'truths.' And yet, despite this, a fiercebedrock of democracy has taken hold. Gone are the days when a select few held the keys to thecastle, disseminating the information when, how and to whom they chose. The buzz word isnow 'user generated content.' It all started in small internet forums that drew together a virtualgathering of wine geeks and zealots, discussing and debating all things wine into the weehours. And this all, mind you, far away from the limelight. In general, the members of theseforums were roundly belittled by those outside the virtual gates – when they were noticed byproducers at all. This is on the one hand understandable. For those unfamiliar with the forumpractices, the raw and sometimes insulting tone must have seemed somewhat bewildering. Thatthis was being done in the name of the holiest and loveliest of all beverages, wine, was, at itsbest, difficult to imagine. And the memories of those stormy forums continue to live on in theminds of many, especially the producers. While wine forums do continue to exist today, theyare only a small piece of a larger digital wine whole. And within Germany, this small piece istruly minuscule. Active participation in such forums requires a considerable allocation of thevery resource that we, in the modern mobile world, have perhaps the least of: time. Blogs havefilled part of the need for these forums. The real heartbeat, however, is best heard within thehallowed virtual halls of the social networks, in particular Facebook.

Facebook is the world’s largest platform for wine. Any conceivable wine-related question canbe both asked and answered on the social network in the span of a few seconds. Dozens of'wine groups' are dedicated to every possible theme, from style to region. The group I founded,for example, called "Hauptsache Wein" – roughly translated as 'Everything Wine" – has at lastcount over 2000 members and thousands of hits daily. Individual wines are praised, discussed,

Riesling and the Digital World of Wine

Dirk Würtz

criticized and sometimes simply photographed. The discussion touches on everything fromviticulture to the future of wine journalism. In the end, it’s hard to imagine any wine-relatedtheme that hasn't been already touched upon. And of course, word spreads quickly! There isnothing else like it in the world. Those who chose not to use it have no one to blame but them-selves. To me, the only possible reason not to be present on Facebook is because your familyname ends in "Cheval Blanc" or something equally notable. That, of course, represents a wholeother set of circumstances. Then again, perhaps in a few years Facebook itself shall cease toexist. Then something – with a different name, and most likely larger, and perhaps even faster –will replace it. But the purpose will remain the same. We have passed the point of no return.The social connection is not a passing fad, destined to vanish into oblivion as quickly as itappeared. It is here to stay. Those who believe otherwise are living in an alternate universe.It can represent, for a select few, an interesting and conscious choice to not take part in thissocial wine world. But then of course we are back to the family of Cheval Blanc, and even thenit is likely only a matter of time. It makes no sense not to be represented. The point isn’t tomake wild postings, or 'Like' everything in sight. Rather, it is crucial to provide both interestingcontent and a regular presence, even if that presence merely involves monitoring the goings-on. But let’s put that aside for the moment.

Participation in the social network naturally involves more than a simple rehashing of thecontents of one's homepage. Which is not to say that many people don't take that approach –just that it is far from optimal. In those cases, a static homepage will more than suffice. On theother hand, the goal should not be simply to collect as many fans and followers as possible.The old chestnut about "location, location, location" has been replaced by "Content is King."This golden rule applies more than ever when it comes to the internet. Wine is inherently anemotional product, but not a necessity for life. To quench my thirst, I drink water; if I’m loo-king for a quick buzz, any plonk will do. Wine is history, culture, and emotion. And these aspectsare the ones that can be communicated, quickly and effectively, on the social networks. A wine-maker can now reach his customers and supporters seamlessly and directly. There's a venueto convey what he finds important in an unbelievably transparent way. Gone are the days oftireless recruitment. The interested fans are already there. They have come to him. I know ofno other platform that can come close to that level of effectiveness and trust.

To be clear, the system only works when one is both straight-forward and honest. Pretendingto be something you're not, or telling tales of things you haven't done, is a dangerous game,reserved for the shadows of the more seedy and dubious internet dating portals. For one, thewine scene is far too small. More and more frequently, this kind of misbehavior is quicklydiscovered and punished. In the modern world, there is little that goes unsaid, and even lessthat goes unseen.

For many, it is precisely this pressure for honesty and authenticity that can be problematic. Theyseem to live in fear that the mythos around wine will be punctured and that the world of winewill ultimately become transparent. Worst of all, people will be able to figure out what's true


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and what's codswallop. Yes indeed, the times are hard. In today's world, I'd be crazy to claimthat I harvest entirely by hand – while a machine harvester drives through the vineyards behindme. The risk is too great that someone will photograph that harvester and immediately uploadit to Facebook. On the other hand, it is exactly this credibility and truthfulness that Germanwine needs. True stories need to be told, establishing the emotional connection linked to aflawless, artisanal product. For German wine, for Riesling, this is an almost historic chance toraise the overall public and commercial profile. Gone are the divides between the digital andthe 'real' world. It's crucial that we accept this. Those who continue to insist on separating thetwo realms haven't grasped what's at stake here. Always be Yourself.

It goes without saying that there are risks associated with using these social media tools andthe openness tied to them. Thus emerges the necessity for 'monitoring.' You need to know atall times what is being posted about you and your product – positive and negative. Keep yourrevolver cocked and loaded and your trigger finger at the ready. One moment of poorjudgment, one negligent or unsubstantiated slip-up and a mere trifle can gather into an epic'shitstorm.' These dust-ups often die out quickly, but others can seem to gain a life of their own.Whether short or long-lived, they almost always end up emotional, biased, controversial andabove all else hurtful. With more than a few of these virtual brawls under my own belt, thosewho have experienced one for themselves know of what I speak. This alone attests to thenecessity for vigilant monitoring. A quick draw is the first – many might say the only – rule ofengagement, but it all starts by thinking through carefully all actions undertaken on the inter-net. An inability to interact appropriately in social situations will inevitably create one’s ownpersonal Waterloo within the virtual existence. Good luck trying to delete your miscues after-wards; the internet never forgets. The ability to stay truthful and straight-forward, and tocultivate a solid network, makes the entire monitoring process much easier. Others may eventake up your cause ...

To reiterate, I am quite serious when I say that the internet and the social networks are provi-ding an unprecedented chance for German Riesling. The wine industry as we know it is under-going a series of permanent changes. The wine business has to date been dominated by theproducers and – at various times – a few key opinion-makers. Going forward the consumer willrule the market. The consumer’s experience with a product and the emotions that encountertriggers will be decisive. Transported, inescapably, by the internet and the social channelsand/or networks. A Riesling is bought, tasted and the first impressions and initial evaluationsare communicated immediately on Facebook (or wherever), without any catalytic detour. Thisisn't about long contemplation, degustation or even comparison – things move along speedilyand with unstinting candor. Within the circle of credibility – and yes, something like this doesexist on the internet – this 'evaluation' is perceived as incentive to either make a purchaseor avoid one. The readers will certainly consider the assessments to be sound. More crediblethan anything else, which translates into more influential than anything else. Robert Parker isencountering serious competition… not from other wine critics, but rather from the verypeople he is trying to reach: the consumers ... We can and must take advantage of this funda-

Dirk Würtz

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mental change. Riesling must be present on all channels. It must be established as THE Germanvariety, and anchored as such for all eternity on the Net. Anyone who googles the term “winesfrom Germany“ MUST absolutely have the word ”Riesling“ shown as the top hit. This isn’t aquestion of Search Engine Optimization (SEO), but rather content.

We have to reach the consumers more aggressively than ever before, grab them there wherethey are, and that's on the Net and the social networks. If you have something to say aboutRieslings, then say it! Say it again! Twitter it, Facebook it, Instagram it, Whatsapp it, Googleplusit. The motto should be"more is better." Thanks to the internet we're in a position to convey ourconcerns, our messages and our favorite variety to the world. Quickly and affordably. There’s noother way to achieve this great an impact with so little overhead. You don’t need budgets orexpensive campaigns. A bit of contemplation, a dash of social competency and ten minutes aday are enough.

So be sure to keep the consumer in mind. That sounds obvious. But I have sadly observed thatit is in fact no longer the norm. Too many people seem to view themselves as existing in somekind of parallel world where the consumer – the customer! – is little more than a disruption.There was a time when it was easier to forget about the customer. Those times are now gone.Thanks to the internet!

What this means is a completely new relationship between you and your customers. In thepast, if a wine didn't taste good to someone, they didn't buy it the next time. Today thoseimpressions are posted straight to Facebook: “I visited winemaker xyz, the wines stink. Not tomention much too expensive and the people were unfriendly to boot.“ That would be a 'worst-case' scenario. The ideal scenario would run very differently. The customer is enthusiastic,shares his excitement with his friends and followers, a portion of whom in turn forward it onto their own contacts, and in a flash thousands of people hear how awesome you and yourRiesling are! The 'power' is with the consumer and people with deep networks!

And in fact we might say the networks in general are more important now than ever. The bondsthat once took any number of phone calls and time-intensive trips to establish are formedtoday quickly and easily via digital channels. Affinities and friendships are established, projectsslide from the digital into the analog world. And all of that without ever having actually laideyes on one another. Authenticity and trust play a major role here. A crucial one, even. Thesenetworks don't just produce projects, they also produce opinions. New trends are established,and others put to rest. The tedious 'target audience analysis' becomes superfluous, since thetarget audience is clearly defined: EVERYBODY! In our case, everybody who drinks wine. From18 to 88 years of age!! Factors from income to education no longer matter. The internet andthe social networks offer barrier-free access. That's the point of the entire affair. It's the mostsignificant and important difference from all of the wine publications in our world. They are thevery definition of 'special interest,' and rely on a defined target audience to buy those issues.The target audience for Facebook, by contrast, is very simple: it's everybody! That continues


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to make it much tougher for wine journalism in particular. The internet is certainly not thesole reason for the dramatic drop in circulations of the German language wine publications.But naturally it's one of the them. The classic sovereign topics for print magazines were always'Industry News' and 'Wine Tips.' The Net has long since learned to do it better. Not leastbecause most of the tips that can be found in print originated on the Net. Major investigativejournalism pieces are somewhat less likely to appear on the Net, and not at all on Facebook.In this case the classic wine blogs play a more major role than the social networks. That aside,this kind of reporting isn't what the classic internet user might be expecting. The average pagevisit time for these stories tends to be short, with 2,500 characters more time than the readersare willing to budget. Although naturally there are also readers who are in fact interested,coming from the 'special interest' group. Moving images are of growing importance in this con-text. The future, I am solidly convinced, belongs to moving images. But not on TV. On the Net.Linear TV programs are going the way of the dinosaurs, I give them no more than ten years.That may sound pessimistic, I know, but the head of the TV networks say the same things ifyou catch them in a candid moment. And most print media outlets were too late to readthe writing on the wall. There are exceptions, of course. In German, “falstaff” does a good job,as does “Vinum,” at least at a content level. The most ambitious of the magazines from anoptical and thematic standpoint,“FINE,” holds a special position comparable perhaps only with“VOGUE.” They are focused on excellence and nothing less! There'll always be a market forthat – including on paper. That said, I’m fairly certain that there's a great deal of transforma-tions ahead in this industry here in Germany. Classic wine journalism will undergo permanentchanges. It will adapt its habits to the social networks, and work increasingly with the tools ofemotion. And it’ll have to, or else it won’t survive. But one thing must absolutely be clarifiedagain and again in this context. The network, the digital world, is also THE chance for allwine journalists. Profound knowledge is in demand. Style is decisive, wagging fingers is passé.A tenuous grasp on the details will be punished, while respectful interactions as equals is a corerequirement. The internet wine geeks who were once dismissed as those 'nutjobs with theirblogs' have grown voices that increasingly must be heeded. Many of them have more readerseach month than issues are sold for all of the print media in an entire quarter. And the publi-shing houses and publishers need to be reminded once again in no uncertain terms: qualitydoesn’t come cheap. Doling out assignments each time to the lowest bidder is not a goodlong-term strategy.

It doesn’t matter who’s doing the writing or the platform they’re using, in the end we all sharethe same goal. We want to showcase the most intriguing and heavenly grape variety in theworld – our Riesling. The internet with all of its varying angles offers a perfect internationalplatform to shine the spotlight on Riesling. We just need to tackle it together!

Dirk Würtz

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Dirk Würtz

Estate Manager at the VDP-Weingut Balthasar Ressand Wine Blogger

„Revolution“ ist das Wort, das am besten beschreibt, was in den vergangenen knapp zehnJahren passiert ist. Insbesondere die letzten fünf Jahre haben das Internet nachhaltig ver-ändert! Während einige immer noch damit beschäftigt sind, dass sogenannte „web 2.0“ zuentdecken, und überhaupt nicht merken, dass dies mit „Höhlenmalerei“ gleichzusetzen ist, sindwir längst im mobilen Zeitalter angekommen. Das alles ging viel schneller, als ich selbst einmaldachte. Die Entwicklung ist noch lange nicht am Ende und natürlich betreffen alle dieseEntwicklungen auch die Weinwelt. Wein ist digital geworden, ob es dem ein oder anderen passtoder nicht.

Wein ist, man mag es kaum glauben, auch im 21. Jahrhundert immer noch von einem Hauchgeheimbündlerischer Logenkrämerei umgeben. Deutungshoheiten werden definiert und hartum kämpft. Dabei hat sich alles längst demokratisiert. Vorbei sind die Zeiten, in denen einigewenige über Wein sprachen oder ihn gar bewerteten. „User generated content“ ist DAS Stich -wort. Alles ging los in kleinen Internetforen, in denen sich wahrhaftige Weinfreaks zusammen-fanden und nächtelang über Weine diskutierten, stritten und sich nicht selten annähernd reli-giös ereiferten. Fernab einer größeren Öffentlichkeit, versteht sich. In der Regel wurden sämt-liche Teilnehmer dieser Foren belächelt – wenn sie denn von der Produzentenseite überhauptwahrgenommen wurden. Einerseits war das verständlich. Es muss für einen Forenfremdenschon mehr als verwunderlich gewesen sein, welch rauer und teilweise beleidigender Ton daherrschte. Es war mitunter kaum vorstellbar, dass es um das göttlichste und schönste allerGetränke – den Wein – gehen sollte. Andererseits existiert noch in vielen Köpfen, gerade derProduzenten, dieses Bild und dieser Eindruck aus den stürmischen Forenzeiten. Heute sindWeinforen zwar noch existent, aber eben nur noch als ein Teil der gesamten digitalen Weinwelt.In Deutschland ist es ein verschwindend kleiner Teil. Die Teilnahme an einem Forum erfordertZeit, also das, was im mobilen Zeitalter kaum noch einer hat. Blogs haben zu einem Teil dieForen ersetzt, die Musik hingegen spielt in den sozialen Netzwerken – allen voran Facebook.

Facebook ist die größte Weinplattform der Welt. Wer eine Frage zum Thema Wein hat,bekommt diese via Facebook in der Regel sekundenschnell beantwortet. Es gibt Dutzende von„Weingruppen“ zu beinahe jedem Thema, jeder Weinart oder Region. Alleine die von mir insLeben gerufene Gruppe „Hauptsache Wein“ marschiert stark auf die 2.000 Mitglieder zu undhat täglich Tausende von Zugriffen. Einzelne Weine werden diskutiert, gelobt, kritisiert odereinfach nur fotografiert. Weinbauliche Themen werden angesprochen, über die Zukunft desWeinjournalismus wird diskutiert – am Ende gibt es eigentlich kein Thema in Sachen Wein, über

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Riesling und die digitale Weinwelt

Dirk Würtz

das nicht geredet wird. Und natürlich verbreiten sich sämtliche Nachrichten im Eiltempo!Es gibt weltweit nichts Vergleichbares. Wer Facebook nicht nutzt, dem ist eigentlich nichtzu helfen. Es gibt nur ein zulässiges Argument, nicht präsent zu sein, und das wäre, wenn manmit Familiennamen „Cheval Blanc“ heißt – oder Ähnliches. Natürlich kann sich das alles ändern.Vielleicht gibt es in einigen Jahren Facebook nicht mehr. Dann wird es aber etwas anderegeben, mit einem anderen Namen, wahrscheinlich noch größer und noch schneller. Zurück gehtes in jedem Fall nicht. Das soziale Netzwerk ist keine Modeerscheinung, die irgendwann einmalwieder genau so schnell verschwindet, wie sie aufgetaucht ist. Es ist Alltag! Wer etwas anderesglaubt oder gar behauptet, lebt in einer Parallelwelt. Es kann, für einige wenige, ein unterUmständen spannendes Alleinstellungsmerkmal sein, NICHT in den einschlägigen Netzwerkenvertreten zu sein. Aber da sind wir wieder bei „Cheval Blanc“, und auch das ist ganz sicher nurnoch eine Frage der Zeit. Es macht eigentlich auch keinen Sinn, nicht vertreten zu sein. Es gehtdabei gar nicht darum, wild zu posten oder zu liken oder was auch immer zu tun. Es geht umInhalte und natürlich wird dabei auch das Monitoring immer wichtiger. Aber dazu später mehr.Selbstverständlich ist die Teilnahme an der sozialen Welt mehr, als das einfache Wiederholenstatischer Inhalte der eigenen Homepage. Das kann man machen, das machen viele, aber dasist nicht der Sinn des Ganzen. Dann reicht eben auch die statische Homepage. Ebenso geht esnicht darum, möglichst viele Fans und Follower zu generieren. Es geht um Inhalte. „Content isKing“. Diese goldene Regel gilt mehr denn je im Netz. Wein ist ein durch und durch emotio-nales und eigentlich nicht notwendiges Produkt. Wenn ich Durst habe, trinke ich Wasser, undwenn ich schnelle Wirkung haben will, genügt ein billiger Fusel. Wein ist Kultur, Geschichte undEmotion. Und alle diese Dinge können in einfachster und schnellster Weise über die sozialenNetzwerke kommuniziert werden. Der Produzent kann in einen völlig neuen Kontakt zu seinenKunden und Sympathisanten treten. Er kann in einer unglaublich transparenten Art und Weisealles das, was ihm wichtig erscheint, transportieren. Das Publikum dafür kommt freiwillig zuihm. Es muss nicht mühevoll rekrutiert werden, es ist einfach da. Gibt es etwas Vergleichbares?Ich glaube nicht!

Es versteht sich von selbst, dass das Ganze nur dann etwas bringt, wenn man authentisch ist.Wenn man nicht vorgibt, jemand zu sein, der man nicht ist, oder Dinge zu tun, die man eigent-lich nicht tut. Das funktioniert, wenn überhaupt, nur noch auf zwielichtigen Datingportalen.Derartige Verhaltensweisen werden schnell abgestraft, die Zeiten, in denen so etwas nichtauffällt, sind lange vorbei. Im Übrigen ist die Weinszene viel zu klein…

Für viele ist gerade dieser Zwang zur Ehrlichkeit und Authentizität das eigentliche Problem ander ganzen Sache. Es könnte ja am Mythos gekratzt werden, Wein könnte ja am Ende transpa-rent werden und, ganz schlimm, die Leute merken sich tatsächlich, was man so von sich gibt ...Ja, die Zeiten sind hart. Heute kann ich keinem mehr ungestraft erzählen, ich würde alleTrauben von Hand ernten, während im Hintergrund die Maschine durch den Weinberg fährt.Viel zu groß ist die Gefahr, dass das einer fotografiert und das entlarvende Foto auf Facebookstellt… Aber sind wir einmal ehrlich, es ist genau diese Authentizität, die insbesondere derdeutsche Wein braucht. Echte Geschichten müssen erzählt und eine emotionale Bindung zu

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einem handwerklich einwandfrei hergestellten Produkt aufgebaut werden. Für den deutschenWein, für den Riesling, ist das beinahe eine historische Chance, im breiten Bewusstsein – unddamit auch im Markt – anzukommen. Es gibt übrigens keine Trennung zwischen der digitalenund der „realen“ Welt. Das sollte jedem klar sein. Wer da etwas meint trennen zu müssen, hatnicht verstanden, um was es eigentlich geht. Seien Sie immer Sie selbst

Es versteht sich von selbst, dass die Art der Kommunikation – das Nutzen der sozialenNetzwerke und die damit verbundene Offenheit – auch einige Gefahren mit sich bringen. Ausdiesem Grund ist das „Monitoring“ eine der Hauptaufgaben. Sie sollten zu jeder Zeit wissen,was über Sie und Ihre Produkte geschrieben, gepostet und im schlimmsten Fall geschimpft wird.Der Colt sitzt locker und der Zeigefinger zuckt immer nervöser am Abzug. Eine Unachtsamkeit,eine falsche und unbedachte Äußerung – und aus einer Lappalie wird unter Umständen eintsunamigleicher „shitstorm“. Manches verpufft schneller, als es kam, anderes kann durchausnachhaltig sein. Ungerecht, emotional, bis hin zu hochgradig polemisch und verletzend sindsolche „shitstorms“ beinahe immer. Wer so etwas schon einmal erlebt hat, ich habe mehrere hin-ter mich gebracht, weiß, wovon ich rede. Aus diesem Grund führt am konsequenten Monitoringauch kein Weg vorbei. Rechtzeitiges Reagieren ist oberste Pflicht, überlegtes Handeln istdie Grund voraus setzung für jegliches Tun im Netz. Wer sozial inkompetent ist, erlebt in densozialen Netz werken sein persönliches Waterloo. Späteres Löschen bringt übrigens gar nichts –das Internet vergisst nichts. Wenn Sie es geschafft haben, authentisch zu bleiben, und Ihr Netz -werk funktioniert, wird auch das Monitoring einfacher. Das übernehmen dann andere für Sie…

Ich meine das übrigens ernst, wenn ich sage, dass das Internet und die sozialen Netzwerke einehistorische Chance für den deutschen Riesling sind. Die Weinwirtschaft ändert sich nachhaltig.Bisher war die Weinwirtschaft von den Produzenten und – hin und wieder – einigen wenigenMeinungsmachern dominiert. Künftig beherrscht der Konsument den Markt. Die Erfahrung, dieein Verbraucher mit einem Produkt macht, und das dadurch ausgelöste emotionale Momentwerden den Markt dominieren. Transportiert, wie sollte es anders sein, durch das Internet unddie sozialen Kanäle, respektive Netzwerke. Ein Riesling wird gekauft, probiert und der ersteEindruck und die erste Einschätzung werden sofort und ohne katalysatorische Umwege aufFacebook (oder wo auch immer) kommuniziert. Es wird nicht lange nachgedacht, verkostet odergar abgewogen – es geht schnell und schonungslos. Im vertrauten Umfeld – ja, so etwas gibtes auch im Internet – wird dieser „Bewertung“ geglaubt und sie wird entweder als Kaufanreizwahrgenommen oder, im schlimmsten Fall, als Warnung. In jedem Fall aber werden dieseEmpfehlungen als glaubwürdig eingestuft werden. Glaubwürdiger als alles andere und damitauch einflussreicher als alles andere. Robert Parker bekommt ernsthafte Konkurrenz. Allerdingsnicht von anderen Weinkritikern, sondern von denen, die er eigentlich erreichen will – denKonsumenten… Diese maßgebliche Änderung können und müssen wir uns zunutze machen.Riesling muss auf allen Kanälen präsent sein. Er muss als DIE deutsche Rebsorte betoniert undauf alle Ewigkeit im Netz verankert sein. Wer den Begriff „Wein aus Deutschland“ googeltMUSS zwingend als erstes Suchergebnis das Wort „Riesling“ angezeigt bekommen. Dabei gehtes nicht um Suchmaschinenoptimierung (SEO), sondern um content.


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Wir müssen also stärker denn je die Konsumenten erreichen, sie da abholen, wo sie sind, unddas ist nun einmal im Internet und in den sozialen Netzwerken. Wenn Sie etwas zum ThemaRiesling zu sagen haben, sagen Sie es! Wiederholen Sie es! Twittern, facebooken, instagramen,whatsappen, googleplusen Sie es. „Viel hilft viel“, ist hier die Devise. Mit Hilfe des Netzes sindwir in der Lage, unser Anliegen, unsere Botschaften und unsere Lieblingsrebsorte in die Welt zutragen. Schnell und kostengünstig. Nirgendwo kann man mit so wenig Aufwand eine so großeWirkung erzielen. Es bedarf keinerlei Budgets und aufwendiger Kampagnen. Etwas nachdenken,soziale Kompetenz und zehn Minuten Zeit am Tag genügen.

Behalten Sie den Konsumenten also im Blick. Das klingt normal. Leider beobachte ich immeröfter, dass dies nicht mehr normal ist. Zunehmend begeben sich einige in eine Art Parallelwelt,in der der Konsument, der Kunde, nur stört. Früher konnte man den Kunden leichter aus demWeg gehen. Heute geht das nicht mehr. Dem Internet sei Dank!

Dadurch entsteht zwischen Ihnen und Ihren Kunden eine völlig neue Beziehung. Wenn einemfrüher der Wein nicht geschmeckt hat, hat man einfach nicht mehr gekauft. Heute steht daszuerst auf Facebook: „Ich war bei Winzer xyz, der Wein taugt nichts. Und viel zu teuer ist erauch und die Leute waren total unfreundlich“. Das wäre das „worst case“-Szenario. Im Idealfallläuft das aber anders. Der Kunde ist begeistert, teilt die Begeisterung seinen Freunden undFollowern mit, ein Teil davon teilt das wiederum und im Handumdrehen haben Tausende vonMenschen mitbekommen, wie toll Sie und Ihr Riesling sind! Die „Macht“ ist beim Konsumentund bei den gut vernetzten Menschen!

Überhaupt werden Netzwerke immer wichtiger. Was früher mühsam per Telefon und zeitauf-wendiger Reisen aufgebaut werden musste, findet sich heute ganz einfach und schnell digitalzusammen. Sympathien und Freundschaften entstehen, Projekte schwappen aus der digitalenin die analoge Welt. Und das alles manchmal, ohne sich auch nur einmal persönlich gesehenzu haben. Auch hier spielen Authentizität und Vertrauen eine große Rolle. Eine wesentlichesogar. In diesen Netzwerken entstehen nicht nur Projekte, es entstehen auch Meinungen.Neue Trends werden gemacht, andere beerdigt. Mühsame Zielgruppenanalysen entfallen, dieZielgruppe ist klar definiert: ALLE! In unserem Fall alle, die Wein trinken. Von 18 bis 88 Jahren!!!Das Einkommen spielt keine Rolle, ebenso wenig die Bildung und was sonst auch immer. DasInternet und die sozialen Netzwerke haben einen barrierefreien Zugang. Das ist der Sinn desGanzen. Das ist der deutlichste und wichtigste Unterschied zu sämtlichen Weinpublikationendieser Welt. Die sind „special interest“ und brauchen zwingend eine definierte Zielgruppe,die das Heft auch kauft. Die Zielgruppe von Facebook hingegen ist einfach: es sind alle!Das macht es insbesondere für den Weinjournalismus immer schwerer. Das Internet ist sichernicht der alleinige Grund für den dramatischen Rückgang der Auflagenzahlen der deutsch-sprachigen Weinpublikationen. Aber natürlich ist er einer der Gründe. Die klassischen früherenPrint-Hoheitsgebiete „Neuigkeiten“ und „Weintipps“ sind im Netz längst besetzt. Zumal diemeisten Tipps, die heutzutage im Print stehen, aus dem Netz kommen. Große Reportagen sindeher weniger im Netz zu finden, auf Facebook natürlich gar nicht. Hier spielen die klassischen

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Weinblogs eine größere Rolle als die sozialen Netzwerke. Allerdings sind solche Reportagennicht das, was der klassische Internetnutzer erwartet. Die Verweildauer im Netz auf solchenGeschichten ist in der Regel kurz, 2.500 Zeichen sind für viele schon eine echte Heraus forde -rung. Natürlich gibt es auch hierfür Leser, die kommen dann aber aus der „special interest“-Gruppe. Bewegte Bilder werden in diesem Zusammenhang immer wichtiger. Die Zukunft, davonbin ich felsenfest überzeugt, gehört so oder so den bewegten Bildern! Allerdings nicht denenim TV, sondern denen im Netz. Lineare TV-Programme sind in spätestens zehn Jahren tot!Das klingt provokativ, ich weiß, aber etwas anderes sagen die TV-Macher – wenn sie ehrlichsind – auch nicht. Die meisten Printmedien haben leider viel zu spät die Zeichen der Zeiterkannt. Ausnahmen bestätigen die Regel. Der „falstaff“ macht das gut, „Vinum“ zumindestinhaltlich. Das optisch und thematisch sicherlich anspruchsvollste Magazin, „FINE“, hateine Ausnahmestellung, nur noch vergleichbar mit Titeln wie „VOGUE“. Hier geht es einzigund alleine um Exzellenz! Dafür gibt es immer einen Markt – auch auf Papier. Ich bin mirallerdings ziemlich sicher, dass sich auf diesem Sektor hier bei uns in Deutschland einigestun wird. Der klassische Weinjournalismus wird sich nachhaltig ändern. Er wird sich denGepflogenheiten in den sozialen Netzwerken anpassen und zunehmend emotionaler werden.Das wird er auch müssen, ansonsten überlebt er das Ganze nicht. Eines muss in diesemZusammenhang unbedingt auch einmal ganz deutlich hervorgehoben werden. Das Netz, diedigitale Welt, ist auch DIE Chance für alle Weinjournalisten. Profundes Wissen ist gefragt.Der Stil ist entscheidend, der Zeigefinger hat ausgedient. Halbwissen wird abgestraft undein respektvolles Miteinander auf Augenhöhe ist eine Grundvoraussetzung. Aus den einmalals „Spinner in ihren Blogs“ verächtlich abgetanen Internetweinfreaks ist eine ernstzu-nehmende Stimme geworden. Manche von Ihnen haben in einem Monat mehr Leser, als allePrint-Titel zusammen in einem Quartal Käufer haben. Und den Verlagen und Verlagsleitern seiin diesem Zusammenhang auch einmal ganz deutlich gesagt: gute Arbeit kostet gutes Geld.Aufträge immer nur an den jenigen zu vergeben, der am billigsten liefert, ist auf Dauer keinegute Strategie.

Wer auch immer es ist, der im Netz und in den Netzwerken aktiv ist, am Ende haben wiralle ein Ziel. Es geht um die göttlichste und faszinierendste Rebsorte der Welt – den Riesling.Das Internet mit allen seinen Facetten bietet die perfekte Plattform, um den Riesling in diegesamte Welt zu bringen. Lassen Sie uns das gemeinsam angehen!


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LecturersModerators

Professional Career

1980–1983 BS program „Beverage Technology“, University of applied Sciences/ Wiesbaden in Geisenheim /Germany

1983–1985 MS program „Oenology“, Justus-Liebig-University Gießen /Germany1988 Doctor in Agricultural Sciences, Justus-Liebig-University Gießen /Germany1987–1990 Quality Control/R&D Manager, Sichel Winery, Alzey1991–1993 Laboratory Director and Member of Winemaking Teams,

SIMI Winery in Healdsburg /Californiasince 1994 Head of Department for Oenology and Wine Technology and

Head of the Winery, Geisenheim Universitysince 1995 Lecturing in continuing professional training programs in Germany, Austria,

Netherlands, Belgium, Norway and Finland since 1995 German Expert /Delegate at the „International Organisation for Vine and Wine“

(OIV) in Paris1998–2012 Member of Board of Directors Geisenheim Research Institute

as Head of Institute I (Grape Breeding, Viticulture and Oenology)2003–2006 Oenology Lectures in Bachelor- and Master Programs FH Burgenland /Austria2004–2010 President of the OIV expert group “Wine Technology” in Paris2009–2012 President of the OIV Commission Oenology2013–2016 2nd Vice-President of the OIVas of 3/2009 Oenology Lectures for Euro-Masters program „Vinifera“ in Montpellier

Participation in Expert Groups, Societies and Organisations:1. Chairwoman „Betriebsleitertagung Kellerwirtschaft e. V.“ since 19942. Member of the Board „Forum Wein und Gesundheit e.V.“3. Member of the Organisation „Dr. von Opel-Preis“4. Member of „ Bundesausschuss für Weinforschung“ (Expert Consultant Group

for Federal Ministry for Nutrition, Agriculture and Consumer Protection) 5. Member of the German Research Organisation in Viticulture and Oenology; 6. Committee Member to organise Oenology Symposium at INTERVITIS / INTERFRUCTA since 1995 7. Member of „Bund Deutscher Önologen“ (Association of German Oenologists)8. Member of “American Society for Enology and Viticulture” (ASEV)

Review work for various magazinesNumerous publications in various magazines and books.


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Head of Department for Oenology and Wine Technology and Head of the Winery, Geisenheim University

Date of Birth 7 August 1962 (in Homburg/Saar)Graduation University entrance qualificationQualified job Hotel Managment

Occupational CareerParkhotel in FrankfurtHotel „Europäischer Hof“ in HeidelbergGastronomiebetriebe Stockheim in DüsseldorfHotel Schloss Berg in Nennig/Mosel (Pre Opening and Management)

Holder1986-1993 Gourmetrestaurant „le jardin“ & alfa hotel“ in St. Ingbert / Saar

(1986–1993 together with Jörg Glauben)

since 1994 Holder and owner of „Hotel Goldene Traube“ (4 stars Romantik Hotel in Coburg) and Gourmetrestaurant „Esszimmer“ (1Michelin Stern)

Membership & HonoraryFunctions Sommelier-Union Deutschland:

Membership since 1990General Secretary 1993-1996President since Januar 1996

Jury Membership in national und international Sommelier-Competitons: World Championship (2000 in Canada)World Championship (1998 in Vienna)World Championship (2007 in Greece)„Bester Sommelier Deutschlands – Trophäe Ruinart“ „German Sommelier Cup“ (Competition DWI) Trophy Relais & Châteaux“

Romantik Hotels & Restaurants(Main office Frankfurt am Main; 210 hotels in 11 European countries)

Membership (German Advisory Board 1998-2003)Chairman of the German Advisory Board (2001-2003)Member of the International Board of Administration (1998-2004)Member of the International Presidium (2001-2004)

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Bernd Glauben

Hotelier and President Sommelier-Union Germany

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Willi Klinger, a previous theatre actor, who has been in top-positions in all wine distributionchannels from retail to export, is the Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board.He is also lecturer at the University of Natural Resources and Applied Life Sciences, Vienna,the University of Salzburg, the Austrian Wine Academy and the Institute of Masters of Wine(London).

As a son of an Upper Austrian gastronome, he studied French/Italian and holds a Master inPhilosophy. From 1987 on he learned his craftsmanship from the renowned wine distributorA. V. Stangl in Salzburg. Later, he played a significant role in the development of the Austrianwine retail chain WEIN & CO, before demonstrating pioneer achievements for Austrian wine atan international level as managing director of Domäne Wachau. From 2000–2006, as the righthand for the Italian cult vintner Angelo Gaja, he was responsible for more than 50 exportmarkets. Since January 1st 2007 he is the Managing Director of the Austrian Wine MarketingBoard and the President of the Austrian Wine Academy. Willi Klinger is married, has twochildren and lives in Vienna.

Wilhelm Klinger mag

Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

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Cornelius Lange (born 1963), Author and Journalist. Degree in Journalism from the University of Mainz. Production of corporate videos and develop -ment of media concepts for trade fairs and exhibits.

Fabian Lange (born 1965), Journalist and Architect. Degree in Architecture from the University of Hannover. Studied under Master Architects EnricMiralles and Peter Cook at the Städelschule School of the Arts in Frankfurt on Main.

JournalismFreelance authors and journalists Cornelius and Fabian Lange have published works in leadingGerman publications: Articles about wine, luxury items, lifestyle and restaurant reviews in the“Frankfurter All gemeine Sonntagszeitung”; the wine column on www.zeit.de; articles in "ZeitWissen" and "DB-mobil"; the weekly news paper DIE ZEIT in the Science, Travel and Businesssections; their innovative style earned them the Special Prize from the Prix-Lanson journalismcompetition. They report on topics related to wine, luxury items and lifestyle for Stern maga-zine, and initiated the "Stern Wine School," with over 17,000 participants. The pair are presenton www.stern.de through the audio-visual version of the Stern Wine School.

BibliographyDas große Fressen – ein kulinarischer Trip ans Ende der Nahrungskette, Eichborn Verlag, Frankfurtam Main | Wein einfach, Hallwag Verlag (2009) |Crashkurs Weinprobe, Hallwag Verlag (2006)|Wein direkt. Ein Weinführer zu 100 deutschen Winzern, Hallwag Verlag (2005) | Keine Angst vorWein! (Revised new edition), Hallwag Verlag (2004) | Das Weinlexikon, S. Fischer Verlag (2003)Bella Italia; Abenteuer Einkauf; Stile, Trends und Moden, Hallwag Verlag (2001) | Keine Angstvor Wein! Hallwag Verlag (2000) | Die Rotweinelite Deutschlands, Hallwag Verlag (1999) |Cookbook Mit einem Schuß Wein, Hallwag Verlag | Cookbook Die Tafelspitzen der GebrüderLange (Foreword by Wolfram Siebeck), Droemer und Knaur (1998).

TVReport on counterfeit Aldi wines for ARD’s Europamagazin (6min) and report on the work byWine Guide Gambero Rosso (8min) for Arte (2003) | 12 pieces on famous German vineyards(12x6min) for SWR (2001) | Report on Germany’s elite red wine makers (30min) for SWR (1999).

Exhibitions, Experiential ShowsAnother focus of their work is on the design of interactive experiential shows (WeinsensoriumDWI; Projekt Weinwelt at the Mainzer Zollhafen; Weinerlebnisworld Rheinhessen) on the topicsof wine and luxury products. In the process they have focused not just on the target audienceof wine experts, but rather have sought to address the broadest possible range of interest groups.

Cornelius LangeJournalist and Architect

Fabian LangeAuthor and Journalist

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Guiseppe Lauria, born 1968, is a journalist, communications advisor, media trainer and certifiedcoach (www.gl-kommunikation.de). Since 2008, he has been responsible for the Rheingauregion in the well-known Gault Millau Wine Guide. As an expert in both the German and inter-national wine scene, he has also been a frequent contributor to leading international winemagazines, with a focus on Germany, Italy, Australia and Bordeaux.

He sits on the jury of numerous wine competitions, awarding winners based on blind tastings.Blending his experience in communications, media and finance with his wine expertise,Mr. Lauria offers high-end wine seminars and moderates exclusive tastings. (www.wine-sensation.de).

In 2007, he won the “Sicilia Madre Mediterranea,” an internationally recognized journalisticaward from the Agricultural Chamber of Sicily, for his article covering the renaissance of theextreme wine growing region on Mount Etna.

In addition to his responsibilities as wine journalist and critic, Mr. Lauria is the owner ofGL Communications — a firm specializing in strategic communications and performanceconsulting. Having already worked as an on-air expert for German's ZDF television broadcasterand international business and financial news broadcasters (Bloomberg TV, CNBC Europe),Mr. Lauria then switched to the other side of the desk. Since 2002 Mr. Lauria has offeredconsulting services for decision makers at leading corporations, associations and institutions,helping them improve their media reputation and positioning and prepare for public appea-rances.

Giuseppe Lauria

Giuseppe Lauria

Journalist, Communications Advisor, Media Trainer and Certified Coach

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Caro Maurer, MW, is a wine writer and journalist currently residing in Bonn. Early in her careershe spent time as a correspondent in both New York and Los Angeles, and later went on toassume editorial responsibility for the Lifestyle section of the German edition of Forbesmagazine and the daily newspaper Die Welt. Over the last twenty years, she has establishedherself as a leading expert on the topics of food and wine. She writes regularly for the BonnGeneral-Anzeiger newspaper and Der Feinschmecker and Fine magazines. She also teachesfor the WSET in Germany, Austria and Norway and is actively involved in the Institute ofthe Masters of Wine. In addition she moderates wine tastings, and sits on the jury of nume-rous international wine competitions in places as widespread as Chile, Argentina, Georgia,and the Decanter WWA (World Wine Awards) in London. Caro Maurer is to date the onlywoman with a German language background to hold the Master of Wine title.

Caro Maurer mw

Wine Writer and Journalist

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I was born on 26 May 1960 in Orpington Hospital in Southeast London. My first wine harvestwas in 1967 during the Summer of Love. In an atypically courageous moment for me, I hung outof my first floor bedroom window and picked grapes off the vine growing against the wall ofour small house. Thanks to the hot summer, the Trollinger berries which I threw down to mywaiting friends were dark in color and tasted ripe.I was in my early twenties and a student in London when I first began writing about wine. It wasoften more interesting than my studies and I was paid for doing it too. When my first articleswere published in Decanter Magazine in 1984 I was beginning studying for a masters degree incultural history at the Royal College of Art (RCA) and had no idea that this “sideline” would be-come my whole life after I graduated in July 1986. Within a few years I’d moved to Berlin whereI became fluent in spoken and written German. Since September 2001 I’ve been the wine colum-nist of the Sunday Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, Germany’s equivalent of The New York Times.Inspired by the American writers Hunter S. Thompson and Tom Wolfe I have attempted to deve-lop a revolutionary new style of wine journalism worthy of the title “Gonzo wine journalism.” Outof this decade long process came a trilogy of books on the subject of wine and globalization:“Schöne neue Weinwelt” (Brave New Wine World, Argon, 2003); “Wilder Wein” (Wild Wine,Scherz, 2006); and “Wein weit weg” (Wine Far Away, Scherz, 2009). In 2007 with the help ofthe photographer Andreas Durst and co-authors Ursula Heinzelmann, Chandra Kurt, ManfredLüer and Stephan Reinhardt I produced “Wein spricht Deutsch” (Wine Speaks German, Scherz,2007), a standard work on the wines of the German-speaking countries.In October 2008 I began two semesters as a guest student at the famous wine school in Geisen -heim, Germany. Thanks to the generous loan by Christian and Simone Stahl of Winzerhof Stahl(Auernhofen, Franconia) involving 10 rows of Müller-Thurgau vines and service on the brutallysteep Hasennest site, I was able to make a dry 2009 Müller-Thurgau (presented in Berlin inSeptember 2010). Then in 2010 I co-wrote the scripts for the first 2 series of “WeinwunderDeutschland” (Wine Wonder Germany) with director Alexander Saran and spent several weekswith him and his team filming.THE BEST WHITE WINE ON EARTH – The Riesling Story (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2014) is theculmination of many years and miles of research beginning on 1 Feb, 2012 in Adelaide, Australiaand covering New Zealand, Austria, Germany, and the many, many Riesling regions of NorthAmerica. This is my first English language book in almost a decade, and I can’t tell you how gladI am to be back in my mother tongue! I’ve been away from it for far too long.I have a thirst for wine and for truth, and because we live in an interconnected world the truthin wine leads me to many other truths. The view through the front windshield is so muchbigger than that in the rear view mirror, and focusing on it has made me who I am today.

Stuart Pigott

Wine Writer and Journalist

www.stuartpigott.deFoto: Vuk Karadzic)

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Hans Schultz grew up in the Mosel Valley, Germany, where his parents owned a small familyoperated vineyard and winery. He received a Bachelor of Science degree,majoring in viticultureand enology from Geisenheim, Germany in 1983, and a Master of Science in Horticulture/ PlantBiology from the University of California, Davis (UCD), USA, in 1986. He continued to work ona Ph.D. in crop science in Geisenheim and Davis which he completed in 1989. He then beganwork on post-doctoral projects at UCD before joining a European research project at the EcoleNationale Supérieure Agronomique (today SupAgro) in Montpellier, France in 1993. In 1995 hewas appointed Head of the Viticulture Department at the Forschungsanstalt Geisenheim(Geisenheim Research Center, GRC), and professor of Viticulture at the FachhochschuleWiesbaden/Geisenheim, Germany. He was appointed Director of the GRC in April 2009 andPresident of the newly formed Geisenheim University in 2013.

Prof. Dr. Hans Reiner Schultz

President of Geisenheim University

90

born 28th June 1965

Academic Record2009 Current Head Department of General and Organic Viticulture, Geisenheim University2005–2009 Research Scientist, Section of viticulture -Geisenheim Research Center2000–2002 Postdoctoral fellowship (University of Dundee) School of Life Sciences

Topic: Plant Ecophysiology1997–2000 PhD student (The University of Adelaide)

Recipient of an Overseas Postgraduate Research Scholarship (OPRS)Research Topic: Effects of partial rootzone drying on grapevine physiology and fruit quality (Vitis vinifera L.)

Supervisor: Prof. Brian Loveys (CSIRO Plant Industry), Dr. Peter Dry (The University of Adelaide)1997 CSIRO Plant Industry Horticulture Unit Adelaide

Research work under supervision of Prof. Dr. Brian LoveysFunded by a scholarship from the German Academic Exchange Service (DAAD)Project title: partial rootzone drying: a new irrigation technique for grapevines

1991–1996 Diploma (equivalent to a M.Sc.) in BiologyJulius Maximilians University of Würzburg (Germany), Department of Plant PhysiologyThesis entitled: Non-uniform stomatal aperture in grapevine leaves (Vitis vinifera L.)Supervisors: Dr. habil Helmut Düring (Inst. of Grapevine Breeding, Geilweilerhof)Prof. Wolfram Hartung (University of Würzburg)

1987-1990 Diplom Ingenieur (technical diploma in viticulture and oenology)Institute for viticulture and grapevine breeding Thesis entitled: Fungal disease resistance of Vitis amurensis breedingsSupervisor: Prof. Helmut Becker

Employment History2002–2005 consultant in viticulture and related areas such as winemaking and wine marketing

Winery: “Weingut am Stein”; Ludwig Knoll, Würzburg (Germany)1990-1995 Vineyard manager “Weingut am Stein”, Ludwig Knoll, Würzburg (Germany)1993, 1996 Work experience in plant biochemistry; Institute of Plant Biochemistry (IPB);

Halle (Saale, Germany); Collaborator: Prof. Claus Wasternack 1985-1987 Apprenticeship in viticulture and oenology, with special emphasis in grapevine graf

ting and “dessert-wine”making; “Weingut Kurt Darting”, Bad Dürkheim (Germany)1996 until present: reviewing articles for:Precision Agriculture; Vitis; Journal Experimental of

Botany; Functional Plant Biology; Journal of wine research; Agricultural Water Management VITS-VEA, a literature database in the field of viticulture

Dr. Manfred Stoll(Dipl. Ing.; Dipl. Biol.)

Current Head Department of General and Organic Viticulture,Geisenheim University

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Dirk Würtz (born 1968) is Estate Manager at the VDP Weingut Balthasar Ress, located inHattenheim, Germany. A true pioneer, Dirk was among the first in the German wine worldto establish a significant social media presence on both Facebook and Twitter. He has alsomaintained an active wine blog at www.wuertz-wein.de since 2008. In 2011, he began filminga series of educational videos (“stern.de-Weinschule”) for the German online edition of “Stern.”He lectures and writes both nationally and internationally for numerous books and publi-cations. And in 2012 began holding “New Media” seminars for Geisenheim University.

Dirk Würtz

Estate Manager at the VDP-Weingut Balthasar Ressand Wine Blogger

Winery Profiles

Australia | Clare Valley

Winemaking Philosophy

Jim Barry Wines has an innovative approach to viticulture and a drive forexcellence in winemaking. At the centre of this philosophy is a commitmentto owning their vineyards, allowing consistency and control throughout thewinemaking process, to maintain quality. Over the last fifty years, Jim BarryWines has worked to establish a mosaic of vineyards across the Clare Valley,building six viticultural holdings in Clare, each a unique site in aspect andsoil.

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Jim Barry Wines

33 Craig Hill Road, Clare,

South Australia 5453

[email protected]

www.jimbarry.com

Peter & Sue Barry

Tom Barry

1959

243/600

80,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 30%, Shiraz 40%,

Cabernet Sauvignon 30%

Name

Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

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Australia | Frankland River


Frankland Estate is a family owned and operated premium wine producerlocated in the isolated Frankland River region some 380 kilometers south-eastof Perth the capital city of Western Australia.

Situated far from population and industrial centers the region has ancientweathered soils and a pristine, pollution-free grape-growing environment freeof major vine pests or diseases. Summer temperatures and moderated by on -shore winds off the Southern Ocean creating cool, mild conditions that allowgrapes to ripen slowly resulting in fresh delicate and highly aromatic wines.

The winemaking potential of the region was first identified in 1956 by therenowned US viticulturist Dr Harold Olmo who noted the climate was similarto the Bordeaux region in France. Frankland Estate was established in 1988and is committed to making wines that offer an authentic expression of bothvarietal character and the distinctive features of the natural environment inwhich they were grown.

To this nd meticulous attention to detail in every aspect of grape growingand winemaking is combined with a minimal intervention approach in thehandling of grapes, juice and wine. This results in complex, well-balancedwines that have a distinctive sense of place and are generally consideredmore subtle and elegant than most contemporary Australian wine styles.

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Frankland Estate

530 Frankland Road,

Frankland River, Western Australia

[email protected]

www.franklandestate.com.au

Hunter Smith

Hunter Smith

1988

30/74

20,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Cabernet Franc and other 40%

Name

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eMail

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Australia | Clare Valley


Jeffrey Grosset, owner and founder, has always been an innovator, challen-ging tradition and questioning accepted practices. He campaigned to insti-tute the legal integrity of the riesling grape in Australia, was a leading pro-ponent for the introduction of screwcap closures and privately funded rese-arch into the subject.

Grosset Wines’ philosophy has remained steadfast over thirty years. Theemphasis is on purity of fruit. The estate vineyards, which are ACO certifiedorganic, are hand tended and each bunch of grapes is harvested at optimumripeness. The winemaking process is gentle and uncomplicated. With dedi-cation, discipline and the application of knowledge garnered through deca-des of experience, the result is the finest expression of variety and place.

96

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Grosset Wines

King Street Auburn South Australia 5451

[email protected]

www.grosset.com.au

Jeffrey Grosset

Jeffrey Grosset& Brent Treloar

1981

21/52

11,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 69%, Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 9%,

Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc 7%, others 15%

Australia | Barossa Valley


Henschke is a sixth generation family wine estate established in 1868 inthe Barossa’s Eden Valley. The Henschke reputation is linked with the Juliusreserve Riesling and Mount Edelstone and Hill of Grace, Stephen’s flagshipsingle vineyards shiraz wines. Stephen and Prue believe in careful tradi-tional winemaking and use organic and biodynamic practices to enrich theland of their forebears and to strengthen the future for their children andgenerations to come. The Henschke philosophy is ‘Exceptional Wines fromOutstanding Vineyards’.

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Henschke

1428 Keyneton Road

Keyneton South Australia 5353

[email protected]

www.henschke.com.au

Stephen & Prue Henschke

Stephen Henschke

1868

100/247

40,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Pinot Noir 9%, others 40%

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98

Austria | Kamptal


Outstanding grapes are the basis of our search for an individual expression.Ecology is a guiding principle. We tend to support, not suppress, the indivi-duality of the year and the single vineyards. Our approach occasionally leadsto extreme results, which are, however, in some ways very balanced andnatural. Nature is sometimes harsh and difficult, but it never lacks charmwhen expressed in the form of wine. Each year is different and a challenge.We earnestly try to adapt to the tunes of nature. Bründlmayer is a familyoperation that assembles a bunch of enthusiastic people who devote theirpassions to wine.

Weingut Bründlmayer

Zwettler Straße 23, 3550 Langenlois

[email protected]

www.bruendlmayer.at

Willi Bründlmayer

Willi Bründlmayer

1581

80/198

40,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 30%, Grüner Veltliner 40%,


Name

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99

Austria | Kamptal


Schloss Gobelsburg is the oldest winery in the Austrian Danube region witha documented history back to 1171. The history of the winery is connectedto Cistercian monks, but since January 1996 the Château and winery ismanaged by Eva & Michael Moosbrugger (Winemaker of the year 2006,Wine & Spirits Top 100 Winery of the year 2009 & 2010 & 2011 & 2013).Nowadays the winemakers are focusing on the production of authentic andnoble wines from different terroirs.

Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg

Schloßstraße 16, 3550 Gobelsburg

[email protected]

www.gobelsburg.at

Michael Moosbrugger

Michael Moosbrugger

1171

45/111

15,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls)

Riesling 25%, Grüner Veltliner 55%

and Red Varieties 20%

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100

Austria | Wachau


The distinctive climate and the unique soil are the basis for the originalityof the wines. Through highly physiological ripe grapes due to a very late andpicky harvest and “controlled inactivity” in the cellar it is possible to displaythis uniqueness. National and international recognition show the highquality of Hirtzberger wines.

Weingut Franz Hirtzberger

3620 Spitz /Donau,

Kremserstraße 8

[email protected]

www.hirtzberger.com

Franz Hirtzberger

Franz Hirtzberger

1898

30/74

15,000–17,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


others 5% (Weißburgunder, Grauburgunder,

Chardonnay, Neuburger)

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101

Austria | Kamptal


Professionalism, vigour and confidence are reflected when AlwinJurtschitsch talks about soil, terroir and his beloved natural yeasts.“Converting the wine estate’s entire grape growing – with some of the vine-yards being tiny plots – to controlled organic methods which was plannedmeticulously over many years is literally yielding quality fruit.”

Passion in wine, delight in nature – It is the wine itself and its nature whichinspires us. With specific varieties from separate terroir, we intervene aslittle as possible in the vinifaction process. The wine shall develop itself inthe 700-year-old natural cellar. Due to the long maturing process on its ownyeast, the wine stabilizes in the spring and summer.

Wines of crystalline minerality, clearness and vitality, with distinct characterand aromas. The cool climate Kamp Valley promotes intense fruity flavourscombined with spicy freshness. Each individual vintage reflects the variety ofthe soils and the micro-climatic conditions – typical for each grape variety.

Weingut Jurtschitsch

Rudolfstraße 39, 3550 Langenlois

[email protected]

www.jurtschitsch.com

Jurtschitsch Family

Stefanie & Alwin Jurtschitsch

1541

64/158

28,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Zweigelt and Pinot Noir 20%

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102

Austria | Wachau


Not being certified in any biological standard we try to produce grapesthe most sustainable way according to the circumstances of weather andvineyard. All grapes get selectively handpicked, after undestemmed crushingwe have maceration times for some hours.

Selected Yeast and spontaneous fermentations are allowed up to 25°C.After the first rack, soon after yeast came to an end, the wines stay on theirfine lees for about 6 month before getting filtered and bottled.

Our goal is to use as little influence to the wines as possible, to show both,the variety- and vineyardstyle with a strong accentuation of the vintage.

Weingut Emmerich Knoll

Unter-Loiben 10, 3601 Dürnstein

[email protected]

www.loibnerhof.at/de/weingut.html

Emmerich & Monika Knoll

Emmerich H. Knoll

Family Business since 1825, after producing wine only for the family owned Restaurant Loibnerhof, 1961 was the first vintage to be sold with the distinctive label painted by Siegfried Stoitzner

16/40

7,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


others 10%

Name

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eMail

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103

Austria | Kamptal


“I know very well how contradictory one must be in order to be consistent!”Pier Paolo Pasolini

“I like to be surprised,” Fred Loimer always says. Indeed, he is – and wasalways – good for surprises. For example, in 2000, he built a modern,minimalistic “black box” over his historic brick vault cellar in Langenlois,something that 'disturbed' the traditional layout of the winery and its cellarlane ensemble. Also, in 2006, he began to convert his vineyards to the stan-dards of biodynamic agriculture. And a year later, he and his fellow wine-making colleagues founded an association called “Respekt” to ensure thatthe targets of biodynamics in winemaking are constantly being met.

Because at Weingut Loimer, everyone is convinced that only winegrowingthat follows the lines of nature will yield wines with regional character andtypicity. And this is not only an issue of protecting soils and resources, butalso – quality.

Weingut Fred Loimer

Haindorfer Vögerlweg 23,

3550 Langenlois

[email protected]

www.loimer.at

Fred Loimer

Fred Loimer

1962

70/173

30,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Zweigelt 10%, Pinot Noir 10%, others 10%

Name

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104

FXAustria | Wachau


Our philosophy is to get the best out of the excellent potential nature offersus. A responsibility not only towards our family, but also towards nature,history and the wine, because our capital is the vineyards, the vines and theunderstanding gained from tradition in association with intuition and world-openness.

Weingut F. X. Pichler

Oberloiben 57, 3601 Dürnstein

[email protected]

www.fx-pichler.at

Family F. X. Pichler

Lucas Pichler

1989

18/44

10,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Sauvignon Blanc 1%

Name

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eMail

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105

Cave Spring Cellars

3836 Main Street,

Jordan, ON L0R 1S0

[email protected]

www.cavespring.ca

Pennachetti Family

& Angelo Pavan

Angelo Pavan

1986

66/163

50,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 55%, Chardonnay15%, others 30%

Name

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Production

Grape Varieties

Canada | Niagara Peninsula


Named after the limestone caves and mineral springs located in their epo-ny mous vineyard, Cave Spring Cellars has been producing outstanding winesnearly for 30 years. Founded and to this day operated by the Pennachettifamily and veteran winemaker Angelo Pavan, this steemed estate has beenvital in the development of the wine industry in Niagara, most notably aspioneers of vitis vinifera with plantings dating back to the 1970’s and therefinement of the regional style for Riesling as one of the Peninsula’sdefinitive varieties. In addition, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, andtraditional method sparkling wines complete the core of a diverse portfolio,with the very best of these coming from vines up to 40 years of age plantedin the limestone- clay soils of their Cave Spring Vineyard on the BeamsvilleBench.

Canada | British Columbia (Okanagan Valley)


At Tantalus Vineyards we strive to make the best quality wine that eachseason gives us. To achieve this we believe that a healthy, balanced vine-yard is paramount. With great fruit comes the opportunity to craft excellentwine with minimal intervention. It is our goal to employ ambient yeast andminimal additives in guiding our wines to bottle. As a result of this philo-sophy, our wines are bottled with only a small amount of sulphur. Justgrapes in a glass, is to us, the ultimate expression of each unique vintage.

106

Tantalus Vineyards

1670 Dehart Road,

Kelowna V1W-4N6

[email protected]

www.tantalus.ca

Eric Savics

David Paterson

2004

20/49

6,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 40%, Pinot Noir 30%,

Chardonnay 20%, others 10%

Name

Address

eMail

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Winemaker

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Size (ha/acres)

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France | Alsace


Actually, 7words: Balance, balance, balance, everything else is «blablabla»

More seriously, our Family has been known in winemaking for some yearsnow, as we started in 1626. The style of wine we produce has always remainthe same: we look for balance, for purity, elegance and finesse in our wines.We also have been reputed for the drier style of wines we produce in Alsace.Pierre Trimbach has been elected as one of the top 10 white winemakersin the world in 2006 by Decanter magazine. They mentioned he is a "purist".

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F. E. Trimbach

15 Rte de Bergheim

68150 Ribeauvillé

[email protected]

www.trimbach.fr

Trimbach Family

Pierre Trimbach, 12th generation

1626

44/109 owned, grapes selection/purchasing as well

83,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 50%, others 50%

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eMail

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The 30 hectares of Domaine Weinbach are some of the finest vineyards onthe hills and valley of Kaysersberg including the prestigious Grands CrusSchlossberg, Furstentum, Mambourg and Marckrain, as well as the re nownedAltenbourg and Clos des Capucins, each of which imparts its indivi dualcharacter to the wines.

The primary concern is to produce the highest quality grapes which expressthe personality of the Alsace grape varieties and the richness of theirterroirs. Biodynamic viticulture, low yields, hand-picking of grapes at theiroptimum maturity, slow natural yeast fermentation in ancient, large oakcasks: all contribute to the intensity and balance of the wines.

Our philosophy is to produce wines that show authenticity, concentrationand complexity, as well as great purity, intensity of fruit, balance andelegance.

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Domaine Weinbach

Clos des Capucins –25 route du vin

68240 Kaysersberg

[email protected]

www.domaineweinbach.com

Colette, Catherine & Laurence Faller

Laurence Faller

1898

30 /74

12,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 40%, Gewurztraminer 25%,

Pinot Gris12%, others 23%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

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Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

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France | Alsace

Germany | Rheingau


Our family has lived for 700 years in the Rheingau. This history provides usboth with an obligation and also an incentive, as we consider tradition to bevery important and that it helps us to achieve positive change. Together withour employees, we will also do our very best in future to achieve the highestquality and to optimally nurture and care for our vines so we can producethe finest wines for you.

With lots of Riesling and Pinot Noir in our hearts, we remain cordially yours,the Allendorf and Schönleber families.

Weingut Fritz Allendorf

Kirchstrasse 69,

65375 Oestrich-Winkel

[email protected]

www.allendorf.de

Christine Schönleber & Ulrich Allendorf

Josef & Max Schönleber

1292

64/158

54,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


others 5%

109

Name

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Germany | Rheingau


The family-run BARTH Wine and Sparkling Wine Estate is situated in thevillage of Hattenheim, in middle of the Rheingau valley and has about 20haof vineyards under organic cultivation. It is a member of the prestigiousVDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter). The varieties are mostly typicalfor the region such as Riesling and Pinot Noir but also Pinot Blanc andCabernet Sauvignon. Hattenheim grand cru sites like Hassel or Wissel -brunnen are south facing, consisting of loam, clay, marl and quartzite. Theseoptimum terroir conditions are the perfect base for meaningful wines andsparkling wines, which are hand crafted by traditional bottle fermentation,single variety and minimum of 24 months maturation on the yeast beforedisgorging.

Striving to combine traditional values and modern technologies, BARTH isalways looking for new, innovative ways of working with the natural productwine and sparkling wine on the highest possible quality level.

110

Wein- und Sektgut BARTH

Bergweg 20, 65347 Hattenheim

[email protected]

www.weingut-barth.de

Christine & Norbert Barth

Mark Barth

1948

20/49

12,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)

Riesling 78%, Pinot Noir 20%, others 2%

Name

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Germany | Rheinhessen


“To my mind, wine should communicate a direct impression of the soilcharac teristics of the southern Wonnegau: marled chalk and chalk pebbles,all the way to solid limestone. One should be able to experience and tastethe rock.Riesling is my vision. In the Wonnegau, no grape is able to translatelight and soil into wine as precisely or succulently. I judge Riesling’s super-ficial fruitiness to be only a pretense. It is merely an intermediate phase,before the metamorphosis to a true stone wine begins. In reality, a naturalRiesling wine is less fruit, and rather much more herbs, spices, saltiness,and flint. That’s why my primary slogan is LIQUID EARTH. It took until 2005before I was able to concern myself with the background of biodynamic.”

H.O. Spanier

111

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Weingut Battenfeld Spanier

Bahnhofstraße 33

67591Hohen-Sülzen

[email protected]

www.battenfeld-spanier.de

H.O. Spanier & Carolin Spanier-Gillot

H.O. Spanier

1990

28/69

12,500 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Germany | Rheingau


For us quality originates from our vineyards. Older vines, low yields and solehandpicking are very important to us. By allowing herbs and weeds to coverthe vineyard soil we prevent erosion and even accept lower yields. The vita-lity of the vines is strengthened by their more natural environment. Whenyields are too high, in the end of summer, we eliminate unripe grapes inorder to achieve higher quality for the remaining grapes. This guaranteesthat one can taste the terroir when drinking the wine. Picking selectivelyby hand, in several passages, will further improve the quality of the grapes.

There is no high tech in our cellars. Art and craft is our guideline. All winesare vinified individually in containers with a maximum volume of 2400 litres.Seventy percent of our storage capacity is in big old German oak barrels.They can be used between 50 and 100 years. The temperature duringfermentation is not computer controlled as it is today’s state-of-the-art.However we accept on purpose varying conditions for fermentationresulting in more character and variety.

Weingut Georg Breuer

Geisenheimer Straße 9

65385 Rüdesheim am Rhein

[email protected]

www.georg-breuer.com

Breuer family

Hermann Schmoranz

1880

33/82

20,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)


others 5%

112

Name

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Winemaker

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Germany | Pfalz


We pay more than lip service to our dedication to the term terroir, for manyyears it has been expression of our respect for our soils and their unique andunmistakable characteristics.

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Name

Address

eMail

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Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf

Weinstraße 65

67157 Wachenheim a.d.W.

[email protected]

www.buerklin-wolf.de

Mrs Bettina Bürklin von Guradze

Mr Nicola Libelli

1597

86/213

42,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)

Riesling 82%, Pinot Blanc 7%,


Germany | Franken


Castell is a special place, where we celebrate history and tradition. In aware -ness of our history, we cannot imagine a better task than to work towardsadvancing this tradition. In the dark vaults of the Castle Cellar, wrappedin decades-old dust, lies the top-level produce of the best years. Next doornew Castell Wines are created and vinified each year – a task which wecontinue to fulfil respecting the high demands of our history and our wines.

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Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt

Schlossplatz 5, 97355 Castell,

[email protected]

www.castell.de

Ferdinand Erbgraf zu Castell-Castell

Karl-Heinz Rebitzer

Philipp Kollmar

Peter Hemberger & Christian Friess

1224

70/173

37,500 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)

Riesling 8%, Silvaner 40%,

Müller-Thurgau 21%,

Redwines 14%, others 17%

Name

Address

eMail

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Director

Sales Manager

Winemaker

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We are lucky to own vineyards that offer wines with impressive mineralityand fruit. They have built the reputation of the Nahe region. We feelobligated to continue this natural quality through our gentle work in vine-yard and cellar.

115

Weingut H. Dönnhoff

Bahnhofstr. 11, 55585 Oberhausen/Nahe

[email protected]

www.doennhoff.com

Helmut & Cornelius Dönnhoff

Cornelius Dönnhoff

more than 200 years

25/62

12,500 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)

Riesling 80%, Pinot Gris & Pinot Blanc 20%

Name

Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

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116

Germany | Nahe


Our basic fundamentals: Schönleber wines offer true drinking pleasure.They are honest, authentic, unembellished expressions of their origin.We produce wines with distinctive personalities.

These essentials instruct us in everything we do, from planting the vines tobotteling.

In terms of the process from grape to wine, every cask or tank is unique.

Weingut Emrich-Schönleber

Soonwaldstraße10a,

55569 Monzingen

[email protected]

www.emrich-schoenleber.com

Werner & Frank Schönleber

Frank Schönleber

Viticulture since mid of 18th century

18/44

11,000 (cases12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 86%, Pinot Gris 6%,

Pinot Blanc 6%, others 2%

Name

Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Franken


Fürst - The Wine Estate: In the westernmost corner of the Franconian wineregion, framed by the low mountain ranges of Spessart and Odenwald, uniqueconditions have been created by time and weather. Here the Fürst Family hasbeen making wine since 1638. In 1979 Paul and Monika Fürst built the newes tate amidst the vineyards and in 2007 they were joined by their son Sebastian.

Facing due south and overlooking the picturesque towns of Miltenberg andBürgstadt the slopes of the Centgrafenberg are home to most of the vines.The Pinots and Riesling especially love the warm and iron rich soils formed bythe weathering of red sandstone.

The quality and structure of the wines is ensured by minimal interventionin the vineyards, reduced yields, gentle vinification and long barrel aging.Nestling between the woods of Spessart and Odenwald the river Main hasformed a basin, creating an environment perfect for the Pinot vines. The mildclimate promotes ripening of the grapes and the soil provides them with thestructure for which the Fürsts' red wines are known. Over the last decadesthere has been much investment in the quality of the vineyards. Naturalcultivation, reduced yields, extensive canopy management, graduated pickingof the grapes and careful vinification with long barrel aging time make surethe wines reach their full potential.

The cellar philosophy is simple; make a careful selection when harvesting,preserve what comes in from the vineyards, employ careful bunch selectionat the cellar door.

117

Weingut Rudolf Fürst

Hohenlindenweg 46, 63927 Bürgstadt

[email protected]

www.weingut-rudolf-fuerst.de

Paul & Sebastian Fürst

Sebastian Fürst

1638

20/49

10,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

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Winemaker

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Germany | Mosel


Best vineyards, best cultivation of the vineyards, late harvest, multipleselection of grapes, maceration, gentle pressing, natural sedimentation,long and cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks, long lasting on yeast,only one filtration before bottling.

118

Weingut Grans-Fassian

Römerstraße 28, 54340 Leiwen

[email protected]

www.grans-fassian.de

Gerhard Grans

Gerhard Grans & Kilian Klein

1624

11/27

7,500 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 90%, Pinot 10%

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eMail

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Winemaker

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Making good wine requires a philosophy and outstanding skills – nottechnology. Wine is part of our culture. Good wines, having their very ownspecial character, can be only produced at certain locations and with thenecessary knowledge about them. Our grapes are cultivated in century-oldvineyards of Westhofen on soils that have been responsibly cared for byour family for generations. By liberally cutting back the vines in spring, bynot using mineral fertilizers, and the having a variety of natural growth atthe individual sites, a natural competition is generated in the vineyards.The vines will suffer and are forced to look for their nourishment in thedeeper layers of the soil.This principle is the foundation for unique wines,which in turn will reflect their origin – the “terroir” – a unity composed ofthe soil, the micro-climate and the vintner.

119

Weingut K . F. Groebe

Mainzer Strasse 18, 67593 Westhofen

[email protected]

www.weingut-k-f-groebe.de

Friedrich Groebe

Friedrich Groebe

1763

9/22

4,500 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Pinot Gris 10%, others 10%

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Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

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Germany | Mosel


Production of high quality Riesling with great aging potential and distinctivevineyard character. Winemaking influence is kept to a minimum to preservethe natural style of vineyard and vintage.

120

Weingut Reinhold Haart

Ausoniusufer 18, 5448 Piesport/Mosel

[email protected]

www.haart.de

Theo, Edith & Johannes Haart

Johannes Haart

1921, winemaking tradition since 1337

8/20

4,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 100%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

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Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

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Germany | Baden


Close to nature, hands on in the vineyard, hands off in the cellar. Most of thewines produced are fermented completely dry, in special years like 1998 or2008 we enjoy making dessert wines. We work with a lot of oak barrelsin different sizes. The picking time is most important for the wine quality,combined with gentle vinification methods and enough patience to giveeach wine the time it needs.

121

Weingut Dr. Heger

Bachenstraße 19, 79241 Ihringen

[email protected]

www.heger-weine.de

Joachim Heger

Jürgen Jehle

1935

26/64

12,500 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 10%,Pinot Noir 30%,

Pinot Gris 30%, Pinot Blanc 15%,

others 15%

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Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

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Germany | Nahe


Although great wines do indeed originate in the vineyards, their time in thecellar shapes them into what they will ultimately become. Once the grapes,harvested at optimum ripeness and condition, are transported from thevineyards to our cellar doors, we handle them with only the utmost careand respect. With nature as our guide, we forgo, for example, the fining ofeither must or wine.

We are not looking to 'make' wine, but rather to follow our unshakable faithin the unique potential of our vineyards. Each lot is vinified separately togive it a better chance to unfold its full range of individual properties andcharacteristics – even among grapes harvested from within a single site.

At the end of the day, we pledge allegiance not to an ordained style, butrather to the authenticity of our wines.

122

Gut Hermannsberg

ehem. Weinbaudomäne

55585 Niederhausen/Nahe

[email protected]

www.gut-hermannsberg.de

Dr. Christine Dinse & Jens Reidel

Karsten Peter

1902, as Königlich Preussische Weinbaudomäne

30/74

10,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 95%, Pinot Blanc 5%

Name

Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

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Germany | Mosel


If we succeed in sublimating the identity of the terroir into the wine, if thecreative synthesis of the soil, vines, microclimate and the ability of thevintner become a unique, authentic sensory experience, then wine is morethat just good taste. The genesis of our vineyards began 400million years ago.At that time, in the Devon age, todays Europe was situated in the tropicssouth of the equator. At the shore of this primeval ocean various sedimentsof the Old Red Continent mingled with silt from the sea. Fine clay, sand,mussels, coral-reefs ... The differences of these sediments that formed ourslate in millions of years explain the fascinating diversity of taste in ourtodays wines. Only one grape variety is capable to revive this slate in such afascinating way: Riesling. This old variety has an unbelievable vitality withwhich it withstands cold, rain, heat and dryness and forms roots up to12m deep into the rock to sublimate that taste of slate into the grapes, ofcourse, only, if we stick to the rules: Old vines, high density (we go up to12,000 plants par hectar) and low yields. But then comes the real difficulty:a vinification with the attitude of a respectful accompanying with greatpatience and trust in the natural process ...

123

Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein

Bahnhofstraße 10, 56333 Winningen

[email protected]

www.hlweb.de

Cornelia Heymann-Löwenstein

& Reinhard Löwenstein

Reinhard Löwenstein

1980

14/35

9,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

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Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau


A broad range of tastes is produced by great variations of terroirs, theindividualized viticulture and wine maturation that allows the differentwines to reach their full taste potential. The focus lies in cultivating andaccentuating the typical Riesling character of the wines. Also, each harvestproduces specific flavors that are highlighted by carefully tending to theindividuality of each vintage. The cool and humid cellars guarantee thebest conditions for cultivation and maturation of the wines.

124

Weingut Johannishof, Johannes Eser

Grund 63, 65366 Johannisberg

[email protected]

www.weingut-johannishof.de

Johannes Eser

Johannes Eser

1685

20/49

11,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 100%

Name

Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

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Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Mittelrhein


We believe that wines of character are marked by their origins: the grapescome from terroirs which are unique as to their soil and microclimate. It isthe task of the winemaker to underscore the special features of the terroir.

Our monopol vineyard site the Bacharacher Hahn is one of the best and mostfamous vineyards located directly on the banks of the Rhine.

The extremely long maturing time for the grapes, extending far into theautumn, gives the Riesling and Pinot noir grapes that grow here in thesenorthern wine growing areas of Germany their particular character.The slow maturing process under changing weather conditions, as well asthe constant alternation between warm days and cool nights as autumnapproaches, intensify the aroma and heighten the wine's fruitiness.

125

Weingut Toni Jost

Oberstrasse 14, 55422 Bacharach

[email protected]

www.tonijost.de

Cecilia & Peter Jost

Cecilia Jost

1831

15/37

8,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Pinot Blanc 5%

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eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

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Production

Grape Varieties



The Keller winery is a pure family-run winery. 4 Keller generations are livingunder one roof and correspond in the idea of producing great wines mainlyfrom the Riesling grape.

Our Riesling vineyards are mainly located on the south eastern facingslopes of the Dalsheimer Hubacker and the Westhofen hills with AbtsE,Morstein and Kirchspiel.The Hubacker vineyard belongs to the family since1789. It’s skeleton rich soilis a mixture of loess loam and limestone which reduces the yield to a maxi-mum of 6 to 7 tons of grapes per hectare.With the use of greencover (clover, cabbage) we keep undesirable weedsdown, it protects against erosion and produces humus.

The long vegetation period in Germany has an important influence on cha-racter and taste of wines. Therefore the Riesling harvest at the Keller winerystarts always very late - often in the first November days - to gain complexity. For our winery the precondition to produce outstanding wines is always thevineyard- therefore all the work done from the pressing to the bottling canonly maintain quality but not improve it.

126

Weingut Keller

Bahnhofstraße 1,

67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim

[email protected]

www.keller-wein.de

Klaus Peter Keller

Klaus Peter Keller

1789

16/40

9,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

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Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau


To get the terroir in the bottle!

127

Weingut August Kesseler

Lorcher Straße 16,

65385 Assmannshausen

[email protected]

www.august-kesseler.de

August Kesseler

Max Himstedt

1977

22/54

10,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 70%, Pinot Noir 30%

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Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

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Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Mosel


Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt’s vineyards are most valuable asset. With 12ha(30 acres) each in the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer, the estate has a most extra-ordinary spectrum of top vineyards in all three valleys in the region.

Annegret Reh-Gartner highly esteems the mineral-rich, filigree style sotypical of the wines of all three river valleys. She is thoroughly convincedthat no other region can compete with this delicacy and mineral character.For years she has also strived with heart and soul to produce top-quality,not only fruity but dry wines, too with ageing potential. Particularly withthe climate changes in recent years, the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer valleys havethe potential to produce excellent dry wines whose brilliance lies not intheir alcohol content, but in their elegance and mineral structure.

Thanks to the commitment of all employees, Reichsgraf von Kesselstattproduces Riesling wines that are on a par with the finest wines of the world.

128

Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt

Schloss Marienlay,

54317 Morscheid

[email protected]

www.kesselstatt.com

Günther Reh Family

Wolfgang Mertes

1349

36/89

18,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 100%

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Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

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Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau


Kloster Eberbach cultivates the finest and most individual vineyards in theRheingau and in the Hessische Bergstrasse. Over 50% of the first classvine yards in the first vineyard classification map from 1867 are still ownedby Kloster Eberbach. We aim every year express the individual character ofthese vineyards. Therefore we interfere as little as possible in our gravitiyflow wineries using CO²-controlled fermentation in stainless steel as wellas traditional wooden cask fermentation & ageing for white wines. Thelegendary Pinot Noirs are vinified in classic open fermenters and stay up to24 month in barrels (225–1,200 Liters).

129

Hessische Staatsweingüter

Kloster Eberbach

Kloster Eberbach, 65346 Eltville

[email protected]

www.kloster-eberbach.de

Federal State of Hesse

Dieter Greiner

Ralf Bengel & Bernd Kutschick

1136

247/610

190,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


others 5%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Estate Manager

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau


The Baron Knyphausen Wine Estate is dedicated to produce powerful wineswith great harmony and full of character. We are not focused on a dry stylewithout compromises – although some of our wines are – but on maximumbalance. Our intention is to work out the intrinsic character of every singlevineyard. Therefore, we are using neutral yeasts, no cool temperatures duringfermentation, and refuse, in strong contrast to some popular opinions, spon-taneous fermentation. For some of our ultrapremium wines, like the ImperialYellow and the Constitutional Green, we use barrels – in 2013 even new,medium toasted 500l barriques.

130

Weingut Baron Knyphausen

Erbacher Straße 28,

65346 Eltville-Erbach

[email protected]

www.baron-knyphausen.de

Grapevault Wine Fund No.1

Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen

Rainer Rüttiger

1818

24/59

11,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


others 5%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

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Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties



Kühling-Gillot is a business steeped in tradition, in the best sense of theword. Family provides a solid foundation, guarantees continuity, and suppliesnew impulses with each generation. This family has been involved in vini-culture since the 19th century. Over the years, the estate has acquired someof the best sites in Germany on the Red Cliff in Nackenheim and Niersteinand added an architectural gem: its unique park and Art Deco pavilion, andstylish reception hall, tasting room, and vinothek. The philosophy is markedby controlled laissez faire. Great wines need time, and this is guaranteedby organic winemaking, traditional fermentation and maturation processesin large, wooden barrels. Tradition is not an end in itself, rather a standardof quality.

131

Weingut Kühling-Gillot

Oelmühlstraße 25, 55294 Bodenheim

[email protected]

www.kuehling-gillot.de

Carolin Spanier-Gillot & H.O. Spanier

H.O. Spanier

19th century

15/62

8,500 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


others 15%

Name

Address

eMail

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Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau


Our Riesling grapes are hand-picked. Processing the fermentation on theskin at constantly low temperature supports microbiological stabilisationwhile being extremely gentle on the grapes. State-of-the-art wine pressesprocess the harvested grapes as gentle as possible. Depending on the pro-venance and quality, the must is either processed in steel tanks or in the tra-ditional oak casks focussing slow and controlled fermentation. Temperatureas well as the reduction of grape sugar are regularly controlled and moni-tored. Low-temperature fermentation allows the aromas to unfold their fullpotential. After the fermentation which lasts for about six to eight weeks,the wines are drawn off and continue to settle on the lees (sur lie). Thus, thewine makes its way up to a powerful, well-balanced, rich in extract, terroir-driven and vivid representative with an excellent ageing potential.

When making red wine, we rely on the traditional fermentation on skin inclosed fermentation vats. During the fermentation process, the grape skincap is regularly punched down to extract most of the colour and flavour.Moreover, the grape seeds are systematically removed from the individuallots to make the wine smoother and to avoid harsh tannins. The winesundergo in either traditional mature oak casks (1,200 litres) or Barriquecasks (225 litres) allowing them to age for about 12 months.

132

Weingut Künstler

Geheimrat-Hummel-Platz 1a,

65239 Hochheim

[email protected]

www.weingut-kuenstler.de

Gunter Künstler

Gunter Künstler & Rolf Schregel

1648

42/103

25,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau


Our Wine-Estate is one of the oldest in a direct line of ownership winery inthe Rheingau with the best and most famous vineyards the area since 1464.To produce wine is a philosophy. Therefore we are making wine as aquality oriented state with strictly controlled, environment-friendly viti-culture in accordance with the VDP. We are one of the oldest members ofthe prestigious VDP, the oldest association of leading estates in Germany,demanding rigid standards of quality control and strict yield limitation of itshigh-ranking affiliated estates.

Langwerth von Simmern Wines have received many awards and are mentio-ned in many American and German Publications. “Wine & Spirits”, “WineSpectator”, „Washington Post“, „San Fransisco Chronikel“, „Feinschmecker”,„Vinum“ etc.

133

Weingut Langwerth von Simmern

Kirchgasse 6, 65343 Eltville am Rhein

[email protected]

www.weingut-langwerth-von-simmern.de

Georg R. Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern

Uwe Lex

1464

30/74

15,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau


We focus on making Riesling and believe that terroir matters. This is whyWeingut Leitz concentrates on transporting the terroir from the specific siteto the bottle. Nescessary for this is the production of the best possible grapes.

The unique “Rüdesheimer Berg” (Rüdesheim Mountain) creates the perfectconditions for terroir driven Rheingau Riesling.

134

Weingut Leitz

Theodor-Heuss-Str. 5, 65385 Rüdesheim

[email protected]

www.leitz-wein.de

Johannes Leitz

Johannes Leitz

historically 1744,

refounded by Johannes Leitz in 1985

43/106

35,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

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Winemaker

Founded

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Production

Grape Varieties

135

Germany | Mosel


"A great wine begins in your head"Ernst F. Loosen

What has impressed me most about the great wines of the world – asidefrom the immense pleasure of drinking them – is the deeply rooted, fiercelyheld philosophies of the people who create them. The great winemakersI have met invariably possess a clear concept in their minds –before the firstgrape is picked – of what their wines should be. It’s a vision that placesterroir over technology, and grape quality over quantity. Their wines aregreat because they share a dedication to producing intense, concentratedwines that proudly proclaim their heritage.

This is the level of winemaking that we pursue at our two estates: Dr. Loosenon the Mosel and Villa Wolf in the Pfalz. Our goal is to make wines that aredelicious to drink and true to their roots. When I drink a Riesling from agrand cru vineyard like Wehlener Sonnenuhr, I want to smell the blue slatesoil that nourishes the fruit. I want to taste the depth of the old vines. I wantto experience the character of the vintage. I want authenticity; without it,a wine is simply another beverage.

Of course, the measure of any great wine is not where it begins, but whereit ends — in your glass. I hope you enjoy drinking the wines as much as wehave enjoyed making them.

Weingut Dr. Loosen

St. Johannishof, 54470 Bernkastel

[email protected]

www.drloosen.com

Ernst F. Loosen

Bernhard Schug

1988

36/89

25,000 (cases 12 /750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

136

Germany | Rheingau


When traditions are practiced and appreciated for so long, there is a reason:We foster and revitalize them by combining long-term experience withmodern competence. In doing so, we develop something new along the way,which usually sets a precedent.

Weingut G.H. von MUMM

Am Erntebringer 9a,

65366 Johannisberg

[email protected]

www.mumm.de

Weingut G.H. von Mumm

Christian Witte

1822

65/161

60,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Pinot Blanc 5%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

137

Germany | Rheingau


We feel that the vineyard sets the stage for good and individual wine.Wine originates in the vineyard, and the vineyard leaves its mark on a wine’sindividual personality. We are convinced that in conjunction with soil andmicroclimate, the wine-growers signature must also be clearly recognizable.

Weingut Prinz

Im Flachsgarten 5, 65375 Hallgarten

[email protected]

www.prinz-wein.de

Sabine & Fred Prinz

Fred Prinz

1991

8/20

4,500 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Sauvignon Blanc 3%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

138

Germany | Rheingau


“It is and has always been a tremendous challenge to balance 800 years offamily tradition against the expectations of the modern wine world, and topromote synergy between these two aspects,” explains Donatus Landgrafvon Hessen.

This interplay between 'classic and modern' is reflected in all aspects of theestate's work. The resulting wines present a lively, racy and fresh modernstyle, while the estate maintains an unerring dedication to Riesling thatdemonstrates the true depth of their Rheingau roots.

Weingut Prinz von Hessen

Grund 1, 65366 Johannisberg

[email protected]

www.prinz-von-hessen.de

Hessische Hausstiftung Kronberg i. Ts.,

SKH Donatus Landgraf von Hessen

Dr. Clemens Kiefer & Sascha Huber

1957

38/94

20,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

139

Germany | Pfalz


The key idea is the production of “Nature Wines”. This idea originates fromthe 40s when Ökonomierat Eduard Rebholz decided to produce unique andindependent wines beyond the mainstream. A philosophy which is stillpractised today: The wines are biodynamically produced, never deacidifiedor chaptalized. The wines reflect the vintage and the soil. They are “TypicalRebholz”

Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz

Weinstraße 54, 76833 Siebeldingen

[email protected]

www.oekonomierat-rebholz.de

Hansjörg Rebholz

Hansjörg Rebholz

16th century

22/54

10,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 45%, Pinot 40%, others 15%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

140

Germany | Rheingau


Great wines don’t happen by chance. They are the results of an ideal inter-play of soil, grape variety and climate. The winegrower must bear thesefactors, as well as innovation, in mind in order to produce authentic wines.For nearly 1,200 years viticulture at Schloss Johannisberg has embracedthese realities as part of an open-minded tradition. This guarantees theinimitably elegant and aromatic character of our Rieslings.

Domäne Schloss Johannisberg

Schloss Johannisberg, 65366 Geisenheim

[email protected]

www.schloss-johannisberg.de

Fürst von Metternich

– Winneburgsche Domäne –

Schloss Johannisberg GbR.

Christian Witte

11th Century

35/86

20,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 100%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Mosel


We only cultivate Riesling and respect always the pure terroir style ofour Grosse Lage vineyards Lieser Niederberg Helden, Brauneberger JufferSonnenuhr and Brauneberger Juffer.

The vineyards are all facing south or south west, have a typical blue slatesoil and a slope up to 75%.

We produce extremely clear, precise, lean and elegant wines of great finesseand with an almost fragile structure and at the same time very complex andwith an impressive expression of their origins.

141

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Weingut Schloss Lieser

Am Markt 1, 54470 Lieser

[email protected]

www.weingut-schloss-lieser.de

Thomas & Ute Haag

Thomas Haag

bought in 1997

17/42

9,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 100%

Germany | Rheingau


For a family-owned winery great wines start with growing up in the vine-yards. We harvest as late as possible with the aim to keep the grapesripe and healthy. Once in the cellar, we do as little as possible, however,everything needed to ensure the unique quality of our wines. We love touse the Riesling’s versatility: From classic dry wines up to the highestquality of sweet wines you have ever tasted.

Riesling is like a diva: It demands experience and sensitivity.

142

Wein- und Sektgut F. B. Schönleber

Obere Roppelsgasse 1


[email protected]

www.fb-schoenleber.de

Bernd & Ralf Schönleber

Bernd Schönleber

1783

11/27

7,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau


For us, winemaking is philosophy and a zest for life at the same time.We operate from the principle that the consumer experience and theirdegree of indulgence when tasting our wines is a result of winemakingcraftsmanship being perfectly blended well with nature.

Our wines are elegant and remarkable at the same time – that’s one of ourmost important aims: to make wines, that bring pleasure and joy and tokeep our ancestors inheritance since 1641.

143

Weingut Josef Spreitzer

Rheingaustraße 86, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel

[email protected]

www.weingut-spreitzer.de

Bernd & Andreas Spreitzer

Andreas Spreitzer

1641

21/52

11,500 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties



Each of our wines should offer a unique set of characteristics that speaksto people. My sometimes unconventional approach to the vineyard, vines,and varietals has been significantly influenced, I believe, by a complex setof factors. These include a non-traditional background in the industry, withno family winegrowing estate to draw upon, and the years I spent as bothan apprentice and journeyman. Great wines only emerge when you doggedlychase a highly original idea with care, courage and perseverance.

I have but one singular goal: To use Riesling, Blaufränkisch and Pinot Noirwines to show the world the magnificent and irreplaceable nature of theestate and vineyards of St. Antony.

144

Weingut St. Antony

Wilhemstraße 4, 55283 Nierstein

[email protected]

www.st-antony.de

Family Meyer

Felix Peters

1920

45/111

20,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)

Riesling 60%, Blaufränkisch 12%,


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Mosel


The Estate produces year after year Rieslings that capture the individualterroirs of the estate’s vineyard sites. Together with his vineyard ManagerHermann Jostock, Nik works the vineyards according to the principle thatevery wine must be a true expression of its origin. In Nik words, “the highestquality wines are a result of hard work during an entire year. Careful soilcultivation, precise shoot positioning, leaf thinning, crop reduction, hand-pikking and late harvesting at all.“

145

Weingut St. Urbans-Hof

Urbanusstraße 16, 54340 Leiwen

[email protected]

www.urbans-hof.com

Nik Weis

Rudolf Hoffmann

1947

28/69

20,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)

Riesling 100%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Nahe


TESCH has proven that an old winery can very well successfully walkdown a new path. The selection is small, tight and clearly laid-out. AllTESCH wines are distinct and dry. Only three different grapes are grown:Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. All bottles are outfitted with practicalscrew tops and the design has been award-winning. Eco-friendly wine-growing, extensive care for the vineyard and hand harvesting of the grapesfor the wines is a matter of the heart for TESCH.

146

Weingut TESCH

Naheweinstraße 99

55450 Langenlonsheim

[email protected]

www.weingut-tesch.de

Dr. Martin Tesch

Dr. Martin Tesch

1723

21/52

13,000 (cases12/750ml-btls.)


Pinot Blanc 7%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Mosel


As a former domaine of the 18th century Luxembourg Jesuit Order, this estateonce–and now again–possessed parcels in the heart of the most famous vine -yards in Wiltingen-Braunfels, Klosterberg, Gottesfuß, and the aforementionedScharzhofberg as well as in the best sites of Kanzem and Wawern. The goal hasbeen to strive for the highest quality and so returning Van Volxem to its for-mer glory. From the best slate vineyards of the Saar, and with the help of lowyields averaging just 40hl/ha, emerge finely textured, fruity, and elegant winesshowing a clear terroir profile, enormous depth, and ageing potential. The goalfor the handcrafted wines is to retain the characteristics from each specificvineyard in the bottle. Upon beginning the harvest usually in late October, thefully ripe grapes are selectively handpicked in uo to three passes. After a care-ful crushing and short maceration followed by a gentle pressing–partly withmodern basket presses – the must vinifies very slowly in mainly tradi tionalwooden Fuder casks along with stainless-steel tanks. In order to keep the uni-que style of each vineyard, only indigenous yeasts are used. With the excepti-on of the botrytized specialities, Van Volxem’s wines fall within the spec trumreferred to as “harmoniously dry,” an ideal partner with many aromatic dishes.

Thanks to Van Volxem's low yields and late harvests, ripeness levels in themuch-desired Spätlese and Auslese categories are commonplace rather thanexceptions. As during the time around 1900, Prädikat designations are avoidedfor the wines.

147

Weingut Van Volxem

Dehenstraße 2, 54459 Wiltingen

[email protected]

www.vanvolxem.com

Roman Niewodniczanski

Dominik Völk

2000

62/154

25,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties



The Wagner family has been involved in wine production now for nine gene-rations, and since the early Nineties Daniel Wagner is responsible for thevineyards and the cellar. Since then, he has concentrated on the classicalgrape varieties such as Silvaner, Pinot Blanc and more especially Riesling,and converted to organic production methods.

Far-reaching measures are implemented to reduce yields. Manual pruningand canopy management as well as selective hand-picking in the autumnare corner-posts of his philosophy of wine production, which is based on theprinciple that outstanding wines are made in the vineyard.

148

Weingut Wagner Stempel

Woellsteiner Straße 10,

55599 Siefersheim

[email protected]

www.wagner-stempel.de

Daniel Wagner

Daniel Wagner

1845

20/49

14,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)

Riesling 50%, Pinot Blanc 25%, Silvaner 10%,


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau & Mosel


"Our philosophy is quality"

Julius Wegeler coined this mission statement back in 1882 – and despite ofall fashions, marketing strategies or market restrictions, it has never beenmodified to this day. Period!

We produce our wines ourselves, mature them without exception in our owncellars, and bottle them in our own bottling plants in the estates. In this way,we monitor the chain of production, from planting the vineyard to packagingthe bottles.

Our labels say "Weingüter" (estates) and "Gutsabfüllung" (estate-bottled ) toprove that we only sell self-produced wines.

This is something that we vouch for!

149

Weingüter Wegeler

Friedensplatz 9-11,


[email protected]

www.wegeler.com

Family Wegeler-Drieseberg

Michael Burgdorf & Norbert Breit

1882

Rheingau 45/111, Mosel 14/35

40,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 100%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Rheingau


High-quality vineyards are indispensable to producing first-class Rieslingwines. It is a challenge to exploit the natural potential of the best sites.

The goal is to reap the finest fruit possible to make Riesling wines of everyPrädikat level, including Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese – a goal thathas been realized every year without exception since the 1989 vintage.The estate’s dedication to Riesling since 1875 has led numerous observesof the international wine world to regard Weingut Robert Weil, with its“château character”, as a worldwide symbol of German Riesling culture.

150

Weingut Robert Weil

Mühlberg 5, 65399 Kiedrich

[email protected]

www.weingut-robert-weil.com

Suntory Ltd. /Wilhelm Weil

Wilhelm Weil

1875

90/222

55,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 100%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Pfalz


Respectful cooperation with nature, no use of herbicides and syntheticalfertilizers in the vineyard, traditional methods in vineyard and cellar, fermen-tation in oak barrels of different sizes. No interference with the wine’s innerstructure and maximum deference for this precious natural product!

151

Weingut von Winning

Weinstraße 10, 67146 Deidesheim

[email protected]

www.von-winning.de

Jana Niederberger

Stephan Attmann

Kurt Rathgeber

1849

46/114

32,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Estate Manager

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Franken


The most important step for making great wine starts in the vineyard.This is why at Wirsching our top priority is the attention and care thatunderlines our affinity with nature and the resultant integrated viticulturewe practice. Old vines with their deep, expansive root systems transfer lotsof minerals from the soil to the grapes. Old vines and low yields form thebasis for the cellar master’s art to produce our Great Growths or “GroßeGewächse”. These great wines remind the palate to their heritage whilepointing to the future with their potential for aging.

152

Weingut Hans Wirsching

Ludwigstraße 16, 97346 Iphofen

[email protected]

www.wirsching.de

Dr. Heinrich Wirsching & Family

Werner Probst

1630

85/210

50,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)


others 35%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties



Since the early 1990s the Wittmann family has emerged as one of the finestRiesling producers in Germany.

The vines have been cultivated organically (Naturland-certified) since 1990and biodynamically (Demeter-certified) since 2004.

Philipp Wittmann decided to go biodynamic mainly for quality reasons, toreflect the origin of his wines in the most authentic way possible. So he aimsfor ripe but not overripe, aromatically intense, healthy grapes that are notat all affected by botrytis.

In the vineyards, no herbicides, no fungicides and no chemical fertilizershave been used for more than 20 years.

With the biodynamic approach, Wittmann aims for natural balance in hisvine yards, a slower ripening process and physiologically ripe grapes withlower sugar levels but intense mineral flavours.

153

Weingut Wittmann

Mainzer Straße 19, 67593 Westhofen

[email protected]

www.wittmannweingut.com

Philipp Wittmann

Philipp Wittmann

1663

25/62

15,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 65%, Burgundy varieties 15%,

Silvaner 10%, others 10%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Mosel


Our goal is a maximum of finesse by the lightest possible impression a winecan offer.

Our wines are fermented and matured in neutral 1,000 l German oak barrels.The deep cellars we own are keeping a constant and optimal temperature asa result of nearly 100% humidity. So evaporation or extra oxidation areprevented.

Pronounced freshness through minerality, acidity, notes of citrus, mint andchamomile is, for us, the key to crafting wines with great ageing potential.Our steep, south facing Rausch vineyard is situated on a bedrock of stony,weathered slate, providing us with optimal conditions to produce lively, vividand classic Saar Rieslings.

Our promise: no matter the concentration, our wines will never lose theirelegance or charm.

154

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

Heckingstraße 20, 54439 Saarburg

[email protected]

www.zilliken-vdp.de

Hans-Joachim Zilliken

Hans-Joachim Zilliken

1742

11/27

6,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 100%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Germany | Sachsen


Ecological cultivation (without certification)

Skin contact (maceration)

Use of a basket press

Bottling in May (after harvest)

Lived alliance of art and wine

155

Weingut Klaus Zimmerling

Bergweg 27

01326 Dresden-Pillnitz

[email protected]

www.weingut-zimmerling.de

Klaus Zimmerling

Klaus Zimmerling

1992

4/10

1,300 (cases12/750ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

New Zealand | Central Otago


Demeter certified viticulture and very simple “hands off” winemaking com-bine to make our wines a statement of place not style.

Wines are all fermented using indigenous yeasts, and avoid the addition ofany additives with the exception of Sulphur. Rieslings are hand harvest,whole bunch pressed, wild ferment without settling the must in stainlesssteel, Ferment is stopped by chilling, 6 months on lees prior to bottling.Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are produced without fining or filtration.

156

Felton Road

Felton Road, Bannockburn,

Central Otago

[email protected]

www.feltonroad.com

Nigel Greening

Blair Walter

1991

35/86

12,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 10%, Chardonnay 20%,

Pinot Noir70%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

New Zealand | Marlborough


Framingham’s estate vineyard was established at Conders Bend inMarlborough’s Wairau valley in 1980, with approximately 17 acres of Rieslingplanted on resistant rootstock on stony, old riverbed soils. Riesling wasaugmented with other varietals in later years. Today, Framingham is takingfruit from these 30-odd years old vines and releasing a diverse range ofRiesling wines, unashamedly inspired by Germanic styles which rely on thevibrant natural acidity Marlborough’s temperate climate provides. Winesunder the Framingham range represent fruit purity, whereas the F-Seriesprovides a home for more complex, textural examples, as well as theextremely small run vintage specific wines that we may not be able to makeevery year.

157

Framingham Wines Ltd

19 Conders Bend Road,

Renwick, Marlborough

[email protected]

www.framingham.co.nz

Sogrape Vinhos

Andrew Hedley

1994

86/212

26.000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 8%, Sauvignon Blanc 75%,


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Slovakia


Riesling, limestone soil and the almost continental climate of the SlovakianDanube valley produce a wine of unique character.

158

Château Belá

Belá 1, 943 53 Belá

[email protected]

www. chateau-bela.com

Gräfin von Krockow & Egon Müller

Miroslav Petrech

2001

6/15

2,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling (+ Cabernet Sauvignon)

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

USA | Michigan


Edward O’Keefe founded Chateau Grand Traverse in 1974 with the aim ofproducing world class Riesling on the Old Mission Peninsula in NorthernMichigan, USA. Our family winery has grown and diversified over the yearsand now produces several tiers of wines that each has its own winegrowingand winemaking philosophy.

For the CGT Eclectic wines presented at this symposium, we strive our verybest to keep the “winemaking” to the very minimum in order to let thebeauty of our peninsula and the unique character of each vintage revealthemselves. There’s no fixed recipe, and frankly we’re still learning what’sideal for our relatively young winegrowing region. What is certain is thatour most important task is in carefully tending our vineyards to producethe most flavorful, balanced fruit; everything else follows.

159

Chateau Grand Traverse

12239 Center Road, Traverse City,

Michigan, USA-49686

[email protected]

www.cgtwines.com

O’Keefe Family

Bernd Croissant & Sean O’Keefe

1974

total 92/227 (estate 50/124)

80,000 vintage, 40,000 non-vintage

(cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 67%,White Varieties 20%,

13% Red Varieties

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

USA | Washington (Columbia Valley)


My winemaking goal is to bring out the varietal character and regionalexpression in Washington State reds which have amazing depth andconcentration due to our climate, soil and diurnal temperature fluctuations.Gentle handling, careful extraction techniques and proper cellar aging allplay a key role in harnessing the power of Washington red fruit. On thewhite side, we have found great new places to grow Riesling and otherwhite varieties for our cooler, more “mineral" style that we strive for in ourwhite wines.

160

Chateau Ste. Michelle

14111NE 145th Street,

Woodinville, Washington 98072

[email protected]

www.ste-michelle.com

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates

Bob Bertheau

1934

1862/4600

2.752.500 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay,

Gewurztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Gris,

Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

USA | F inger Lakes


By utilizing multiple clones, rootstocks and soil types, we are able to selectfor and effectively capture the essence of every growing season in eachof our 20 vineyard blocks. Our 100% estate grown fruit is the key to ourconsistency in the wine cellar. Delivering grapes to the winery at the peakof ripeness, and processing them within minutes of harvest, allows for theperfect preservation of each of our varietals with minimum intervention.Additionally, our 30,000 gallons of stainless steel tanks and 24,000 gallonsof oak barrels allow us to keep each lot separate to provide for maximumvineyard expression and complexity in each of our wines.

161

Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars

9224 State Route 414,

Lodi, NY, USA 14860

[email protected]

lamoreauxwine.com

Mark Wagner, Josh Wig

Mark Wagner, Colin Grant

Winery in 1990, Vineyards planted

on the property in the late 1800’s

42/105

14,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.)

Riesling 30%, Chardonnay 15%,

Cabernet Franc 10%, others 45%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

USA | F inger Lakes


At Red Newt Cellars our focus is creating Finger Lakes expressions ofaromatic white grapes, with a particular emphasis on Riesling. Working withseveral unique vineyards on Seneca Lake, we vinify each block individuallyto purely express its character. Thus, from harvest date, to processingdecisions, to indigenous or cultured yeast, and beyond, we make a rangeof styles tailored to each site. We take pride in making a series of singlevineyard and single block wines to showcase this, as well as classic winesfor everyday consumption.

162

Red Newt Cellars

3675 Tichenor Road,

Hector, New York State 14841

[email protected]

www.rednewt.com

David Whiting

James Russell

1998

13/32

18,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)

Riesling 75%, Gewurztraminer 10%,

others15%

Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

USA | Napa


Trefethen Family Vineyards produces a diverse range of award-winningvarietal, blended and reserve wines – all from our Napa Valley estate –exhibiting the classic hallmarks of fine wine quality: richness with elegance,concentration with finesse, complexity with harmony, and sophisticationwith approachability. Reflecting both the relatively cool climate of ourOak Knoll District of Napa Valley estate vineyard and the Trefethen family’spreference for balanced wines, this classic style dovetails perfectly withthe growing movement of connoisseurs in the United States away fromwines of unbridled alcohol and ripeness toward wines of greater finesse andfood-friendliness.

163

Trefethen Family Vineyards

1160 Oak Knoll Avenue,

Napa, CA 94558

[email protected]

www.trefethen.com

The Trefethen Family

Zeke Neeley

1968

243/600

60,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.)


Name

Address

eMail

Website

Owner

Winemaker

Founded

Size (ha/acres)

Production

Grape Varieties

Melbourne/Australia8, 9 and 10 February 2015

Seattle/USASummer of 2016 (exact dates TBD)

Rheingau/GermanyMay 2017 (exact dates TBD)

The Riesling Coalition brings events to Australia, North America and Germany on a rotating basis.

164

Upcoming Events

Documents

Lectur es Win eTastings Vor träge We inprob en...10 :00 a.m. Opening remark 10:30 a.m. Banquet Halls Lecture Willi Klinger (CEO ÖWM , Wien) The Ten Commandments of Marketing Riesling