Copyright©2011byLourdesCastroPhotographscopyright©2011byTaraDonneAllrightsreserved.PublishedintheUnitedStatesbyTenSpeedPress,animprintoftheCrownPublishingGroup,adivisionofRandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork.www.crownpublishing.comwww.tenspeed.com

TenSpeedPressandtheTenSpeedPresscolophonareregisteredtrademarksofRandomHouse,Inc.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataCastro,Lourdes,1971Dec.9–Latingrilling:recipestoshare,fromArgentineasadotoYucatecanbarbecueandmore/LourdesCastro.p.cm.Includesindex.Summary:“RespectedLatinchefandcookingteacherLourdesCastrotakesreadersonaculinarytouroftheAmericas,firingup90recipesarrangedintotengrillingfiestasthatfeatureauthenticLatinAmericanflavors,alltailoredforthehomecookorbackyardgriller.”—Providedbypublisher.ISBN978-1-60774-004-9(pbk.)1.Barbecuing—LatinAmerica.2.Cooking,LatinAmerican.3.Cookbooks.I.Title.TX840.B3C452011641.598—dc222010048745

eISBN:978-1-60774067-4

FoodstylingbyLourdesCastroPropstylingbyMarthaBernabeFirstEdition

v3.1

ToGerardandhisappetite

CONTENTS

IntroductionGuidetoGrilling

MexicanFronteraCookout

YucatecanBarbecue

NicaraguanRanchRoast

CubanCookout

NorthernAndeanBarbecue

ThePeruvianGrill

PatagonianAsado

TheArgentineGrill

ChileanSeafoodCookout

BrazilianRodizio

AcknowledgmentsIndex

INTRODUCTION

I’matrueLatingirl.Ilovetocook.Ilovetofeedfamilyandfriends.AndI love to spendhours lingering over a tablewith themwhile enjoyingfabulous drinks and delicious food.Mymenus need to be diverse, thefood abundant, and the flavors bright and vibrant. Oh, and onemorething:IwanttofeelasifI’maguestatmyownparty.Thatlastpartisabittricky,butaftermanyyearsoftrialanderrorI

havefiguredoutawaytomakelotsofdeliciousfoodandnotfeelasifI’mrunningarestaurantoutofmyhouse.Moreonthattechniquelater—firstlet’stalkaboutthefoodandthegrill.I love the taste of food that has been cookedwith fire. The intense

heatoftheflamescharsthefood,deepeningitsflavorandenhancingitstexture. Equally, I love how grilling draws a crowd and excites yourguests. Itmustbe theprimal,communalaspectofcookingover flamesthatbringspeopletogether.When Iwas growing up inMiami, I spentmanyweekendswithmy

familygrilling inourbackyard. In linewithourbackground, the foodsand flavors were traditionally Cuban, while the grilling style andequipment varied according to themood of the “grillmaster.” I recallseeing everything from large sophisticated gas grills to small charcoalkettle ones. However, it wasn’t all so arbitrary. Certain holidays, likeChristmasEve,calledforthespecificandceremonialmethodofcookingawholepig lowandslowwithcharcoal.Andonschoolnights thegasgrill was used for a quick flip of fresh fish over intense flames.Regardless of what was grilled or how it wasmade, themeal alwaysseemedspecial.As I got older and began traveling through Latin America, I saw

firsthandhowcommoncookingoverfire,orgrilling,was.IrecallavisittoArgentinawhereIwasluckyenoughtobeinvitedtoafriend’shomein the outskirts of Buenos Aires for a true, day-long Argentine asado

(cookout). I’ve also experienced the freshest grilled fish prepared on asmallcharcoalkettlerightonabeachinEcuador,andhadthebestchar-grilled pork tacos served out of a parked truck in Puerto Vallarta,Mexico. Each experience was different in its food and flavor, but thecommunalaspectwasthesame.This bringsme to an important note. Despite common threads, likegrilling, all Latin food is not created equal. Latin America is a hugeregionmadeup ofmany countries, eachwith its own culinaryhistoryandcharacteristicflavors.Unfortunately,Latinfaretendstogetmuddledinto one underwhelming cuisine. Just ask a Peruvianwhat he had fordinner and I guarantee you his answer will be very different than aBrazilian’s.Yes, similaritiesdo exist, but it’s theirdifferences—like theprominentuseofcumininonecountryandthefocusonfierychilesinanother—thatmakethecuisinesandtheirflavorssoenticing.InordertobringfocustothediversityanduniquenessofthecuisinesofLatinAmerica,Ihaveorganizedthisbookbyregion,creatingmenusthat provide a taste of some of the most popular foods of severalcountries. At the start of each chapter, I will set you up with quickpointersonwhatmakesup thespiritofeachcuisineandacquaintyouwithsomeofitskeyingredients.MyhopeisthatthiswillhelpyoumakeoutthesubtledifferencesbetweenthefoodsofChileandArgentina,aswellasthemarkeddifferencesbetweenthoseofMexicoandBrazil.This book not only offers both grilling tips and lessons on Latinflavors,italsoinstructsyouonhowtopulloffafullmenu,fromdrinkstodessert, and still find time to enjoy yourself. To guarantee that youwillbeaguestatyourownparty, I’vecreatedadetailed“GamePlan”foreachmenuthatoutlines,stepbystep,whatneedstobedoneinorderto execute the menu successfully. You will see a chronological list oftasksaswellasinstructionsonstorage.Because,let’sfaceit:mostofusdonothaveawalk-inrefrigeratorwherewecanstoretraysoffood!One last thing: feel free tomix andmatch. Cook through the book,pick your favorites, and create your own menu. The only thing thatmattersisthatthefoodisdeliciousandyouarehavingagoodtime!

GUIDETOGRILLING

Cookingwithfirerequiresinstinct.Understandinghowtoadjustthegrilltemperatureandfiguringouttheprecisetimetoremovemeatfromthegrill will determinewhether a steak turns out beautifully charred andsucculentordriedandburnt.I’mnotgoingtoglossoverthefactthatittakes trial and error to truly internalizemanyof thenuances involvedwithgrilling.Butultimately,itsnotrocketscienceandonceyou’repastthe initial learningcurveyou’ll find thatmuchof theprocessbecomessecondnature.Togetyoustarted(orgiveyouarefresher)Iherearemytop ten tips to get you successfully cooking over live fire in no time.Now,let’sgetgrilling!

MYTOPTENGRILLINGTIPS

1.KNOWYOURGRILLAllgrillsarenotcreatedequal.Eachgrillhasitsownnuances—howhotitgets, thehot spots, its tendency to flare.For this reason,youshouldtreatallgrillingrecipessimplyasguides.Onceyou’recomfortablewithyourgrill’s capabilities,youwillbeable tobettergaugecooking timesandtousethelidtoincreaseordecreasetheintensityoftheheat.

2.ALWAYSPREHEATYOURGASGRILLIalwayspreheatmygasgrill at least15minutesbefore Iamready togrill. I start by turning on the burners to their highest setting andallowingthegratestogetveryhot.RegardlessofthetemperatureIwilleventually cook my food at, this allows for an intense sear at thebeginningofthegrillingprocess.Aftertheinitialsear,Iadjustmygrilltemperatureasrequired.

3.INVESTINAGOODINSTANT-READTHERMOMETERForgetaboutproddingthemeatwithyourfingerorjustblindlyguessingif your meat is properly cooked. Even professional chefs usethermometers toaccuratelymeasurethe internal temperatureofmeats.Getyourselfagoodinstant-readthermometerwithalong,heat-resistanthandle.Ipreferthosewiththinprobesthatmakesmallincisionsinthemeat,andItendtostayawayfromthosewiththicktwo-prongforks.

4.EQUIPYOURSELFWITHTHEPROPERTOOLSTherearefourspecific tools I findindispensable: long-handledtongs,along-handled spatula, a long-handled basting brush, and a tight-fittingheat-resistantglove.Thefirstthreeareprettycommon,sincetheymakeupmostsetsofbarbecuetools;justmakesuretheonesyouuseareheatresistant. The tight glove is a discovery I made after I got tired ofsingeingmyhandwhen reaching thebackof thegrill—I figured therehad to be a better way. I had always shied away from bulky grilling

mitts,whichwereclumsyandneverallowedmetofeelasifIhadagoodgriponthings.ThenonedayIfoundapairoftight-fittingpitmittsthatprotectedmefromtheheatoftheflamesbutstillallowedagoodgrip.NowInevergrillwithoutthem.

ThroughoutthebookIbeginrecipesbylettingyouknowhowhightosetyourgrillalongwiththe

temperature that typically corresponds to that setting. For example, the citrus and oregano split

chickenonthebonefromtheMexicanFronterachapterstartsonhigh(550°F)andfinishescookingat

medium-high(450°F).Becausetemperaturesettingscandiffersignificantlyfromgrilltogrill,youwill

need to treat these numbers as general indicators and understand that cooking times will vary

accordingly.

5.ALWAYSOILYOURGRATESRegardlessofwhatyouaregrilling,itisalwaysagoodideatoproperlyoilyourgratesbeforehand.Waituntilyourgrillishotandyouarereadyto place your food on the grate. I prefer using plain vegetable oil,slathering it onto the grateswith a paper towel that I holdwith long-handled tongs. This allows me to cover the entire grill area withoutburningmyself.

6.DEALWITHFLARE-UPSPROPERLYFlare-ups,whicharecausedbyoilorexcessfatdrippingintothefire,arenot always bad, since they can result in a nice char. However, ifuncontrolled they can result in scorched food. Here are some tips forpreventinganddealingwithflare-ups:Ifyou’reworkingwithanoil-basedmarinade,allowasmuchmarinadeaspossibletodripoffthemeatbeforeplacingitonthegrill.Ifpossible,createalow-heatzoneonyourgrillasasafehaventomoveyourfoodtowhenflare-upsoccur.Ifyoudon’thaveenoughspaceforalow–heatzone,pileuppiecesoffoodinacornerwheretheflare-upisnotoccurringwhileyouwaitfortheflare-uptodiedown.

Youdon’twanttoextinguishtheflameswithwaterforthesamereasonyoudon’tpourwateronakitchengreasefire:theflameswilljustgetbigger.

7.SOAKWOODENSKEWERSANDPLANKSSUFFICIENTLYIsaythisfromexperience:makesuretosoakyourwoodenskewersforat least 20 minutes and your wooden planks for at least 2 hours.Anything short of that will result in the wood charring and possiblyigniting.I place skewers in a pitcher of water and, if they’re not completelysubmerged, I flip them after twentyminutes to soak the rest. To soakwooden planks, I find it easiest to place them in a rectangular bakingdishfilledwithwaterandsetaheavypotovertheplankstokeepthemsubmerged.

8.HAVEAPLANBEFOREYOUBEGINUnderstandingcooking times—andhowwell foodswillholdafter theycomeoffthegrill—isessentialtosuccessfullypullingoffagrillingmenu.Ifyourmenuisvaried,beginbygrillingtheitemsthatcanbeeatenatroom temperature.Keep inmind thatmeatneeds to rest forat least5minutesbeforeyouserveorsliceit;thisrestingtimecanoftenbeusedtoquicklygrillsomeotheritems.When grilling various cuts of meat, start with those that take thelongest, adding the others along the way. This will ensure that theyfinishcookingatapproximatelythesametime.The same premise holds true when you’re cooking the same cut ofmeattovariouslevelsofdoneness.Startwiththepiecesyouwanttoendupwell done, adding themediumwell,medium, and so forth so thattheyallgetdoneataboutthesametime.

9.TALKAWALK(ORHAVEADRINK)Oneofthebiggestmistakesmadebygrillersisthattheyputfoodonthegrill and immediatelybegin tomesswith it.My rule is toput itdownandwalkaway.Inorderformeatorvegetablestogetanicechar,theyneed tospendsomealone timewith theheat.Howlongyou leave the

foodalonedependsonthe food,butat least5minutes isagoodstart.Justenoughtimetogetsomethingcoldtodrink!

10.ALWAYSCLEANYOURGRILLPROPERLYAFTEREACHUSEThismight sound obvious, but I can’t tell youhowmany grills I haveseenwithbitsoffoodcakedontotheirgrates.Foodstickstodirtygrates,andbynotcleaningyourgrill,youaresabotagingyourself.Simplygetyourself a cleaning brush with stiff bristles and, when you are donegrilling,crankuptheheattothehighestsetting,waitfor5minutes,andbrushoffanyremainingfoodoroilresiduefromthegrates.

GRILLINGWITHGAS

Grills come in all shapes and sizes and use a variety of fuel sources.Beforeyoudecidebetweenalargeorsmallgrill,custom-builtorofftherack,yourfirstchoicewhenselectingagrillisusuallybetweengrillsthatusegas,wood,orcharcoal fuel.Theeaseandconvenienceofgasgrillshasmadethemthemostpopulartypeofgrillusedtoday,soIdevelopedthe recipes in thisbookwithgasgrills inmind.However, thatdoesn’tnecessarilymeanthatyouhavetosacrificethesmokyflavorimpartedbya wood grill or the intense char from a charcoal grill. When timepermits, I bring out my small kettle charcoal grill and use the samerecipes, making simple adjustments in cooking times; I’ll guide youthrough those adjustments in the next section. Luckily, the effect ofgrillingoverwoodcanalsobeachievedonagasgrillwithsimpleandhandyalternativesthatI’llgooverinthefollowingpages.

GRILLINGWITHWOOD

Grillingwithwooddoesmorethansimplycookyourfood; it infuses itwitha rich smoky flavor.Wood smokealso imparts adeep tanhue tothefood.I’vefoundthatwiththeexceptionofthosewithspecialoutdoorwood-burningovens,mostbackyardgrillersnevergrillwithwood.Thisisreallyashame,sincetheyaremissingoutonsomuchflavor.Imustadmit,I’mnotonetostartsplittingwoodtocreateafireforabackyardcookout. But I douse easier alternatives, likewood chips andwoodenplanks.Giveitashot—Ipromiseyouwon’tbedisappointed!Itendtousehickory,apple,orcherrywoodchips.Hickorygivesfood

anintensesmokyflavor,whilethecherryandappleareabitmilder.

WOODCHIPSConvenientandeasytouse,theseverysmallpiecesofirregularlyshapedwood are great for adding a smoky flavor to grilled meats, fish, andvegetables.Inordertopreventthechipsfromburning,whichwillturnyourfood

bitter,soakthechipswellbeforeusingthem.Ifyourgrillhasabuilt-insmoker,orifyouareusingagrill-topsmoker,followthemanufacturer’sinstructions. Otherwise create foil packets of chips for smoking, asdescribedbelow.FIRST, DETERMINE HOW MANY WOOD CHIPS ARE NEEDED. In order to achieve an even

smoke,Icreatethreesmallpacketsofsoakedwoodchipsandplacethemat various spots under the grill grates. I use about a handful ofwoodchipsperpacket.Keepinmindthesefoilpacketswillproducesmokeforabout 30minutes. If your food requires a longer cooking time, createextrapacketsandreplacethemeveryhalfhourorwhenyourpacketsaresmokedout.SECOND, SOAK THE WOOD CHIPS. Place the wood chips in a bowl filled with

water.Pushthemunderthewaterafewtimestohelpstartthesoakingprocess.Allowthechipstosoakfor1hour,thendrain.NEXT,PREPAREPACKETSOFCHIPS.Cutthreepiecesofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,

each about 12 inches long. (It’s best to use heavy-duty foil for the

packets;however,youcansubstitutetwolayersofregularfoil.)Placeahandfulofthesoakedwoodchipsinthecenterofeachpieceoffoilandspread the chips out a bit. Fold the sides of the foil over the chips,creating a packet that is sealed tightly.Using the tip of a sharp knife,makesmallslitsalloverthetopofeachfoilpacket.FINALLY, SMOKE THE CHIPS. Place the foil packets under the grill grates. Ifpossible,placethepacketssotheywillnotbesittingdirectlyunderthefood(forexample,placethematthebackofthegrill).Turnthegrillonto thehighest setting, close the lid,andwait for thewood tobegin tosmoke. It should take 10 to 15minutes, butwill varywith your grill.You should see smoke escaping from the sides of the grill when it’sready. If using a charcoal grill, place the packets over the coals afterthey have turned a pale ashy color and have been arranged on thebottomgrate.Coverthegrillandwaitforthewoodtobegintosmoke.

WOODENGRILLINGPLANKSI love grilling fish on these thin wooden planks, because then I don’thavetoworryaboutmyfishstickingtoorfallinginbetweenthegrates(andcleanupisasnap).Theplankswon’tgiveyougrillmarks,buttheywillgiveyoumoist,smokyfishthattakesonadeeptancolorfromthesmoke.Makesureyousoaktheplanks(thatis,submergethemcompletelyinwater)foratleast2hours.I’velearnedthehardwaythatinsufficientlysoakedplankswillquicklyincinerate.Theplanksaredisposable,soyoucansimplydiscardthemafteryouaredoneusingthem.

WOODASAHEATSOURCEWood adds color and smoky flavor to food. But what’s the differencebetween grilling with wood and grilling with charcoal—why not justbuildawoodfireinacharcoalgrillandcookthefoodthatway?Wood creates a good amount of smoke, which is something toconsider if you are grilling in a crowded setting.When you’re grillingwithwoodyoualsomustwaita long time for the flames to settleandtheemberstoreachtheproperintensity.Thebottomline?Grillingoverawoodfireworks,butitrequirestimeandspace.

GRILLINGWITHCHARCOAL

Ihavevery fondmemoriesof spendingweekendsat thebeachgrillingocean-sideoversmallportablecharcoalgrills.Wedidn’tcookanythingcomplicated—usuallyhamburgers andhotdogs—but I remember thembeing thebesthamburgersandhotdogs Ihadevereaten. I’msure thefoodwasgoodenough,butIdon’tdoubtitwastheceremonialaspectofbuildingandcookingoverabeachsidecharcoalfirethattrickedmytastebudsintothinkingthey’dneverencounteredanythingsodelicious.Charcoal grilling was much simpler back then. There weren’t many

optionswhenitcametothecharcoal,andalmostall fireswerestartedwith lighter fluid. Today many more charcoal choices exist, but thedesired end result of mouth-watering grilled food is still the same.However,beforeyoucanbegincreatingnewcharcoal-grilledmemories,youhavetounderstandyouroptions.

BEFOREYOUSTARTWHATDOYOUNEED?You’llneedacharcoalgrill,charcoal,achimneystarter

(optional), newspaper or lighter cubes, and long matches or a gaslighter.WHATTYPEOFCHARCOALSHOULDYOUUSE?Charcoaliswoodthathasbeenburned

to remove its water and resins, leaving behind pure fuel. Charcoal isprized for grilling because, compared to wood, it reaches a hightemperaturequicklywithlittlesmoke.Todayyouhaveachoiceincharcoal.Thetwomaintypesarecharcoal

briquettesand lumpcharcoal.Briquettesare thedark, squarepiecesofcharcoal most of us are familiar with, while lump charcoal looks likejagged, irregular pieces of coal. In order to get briquettes shaped intouniform squares, binders and fillers aremixed inwith theburntwoodand the briquettes are compressed into its form. Below aremy plusesandminusesforeachtypeofcharcoal.

Briquettes+Producelesssmoke

+Produceevenheatforalongtime+Burnslower,requiringlessreplenishing+Aregreatforquick-cookingfoods−Theheatproducedislessintense−Somefeelthebindersandfillersinterferewiththepureflavorofthecharcoal

Lump+Producesintenseheat+Producesacleanburnwithnooffflavors−Burnsquicklyandmustbereplenishedmoreoften−Providesmoresmokethanbriquettes;notidealforsmallorcrowdedspaces

Ifyoucannotdecidebetweenthetwo,athirdoptionisavailable.Purehardwoodbriquettes,alsoknownasnaturalcharcoal,basicallycombinethebestfeaturesofbriquettesandlumpcharcoal.

NaturalCharcoal+Madeofwoodandboundwithnaturalstarchesforacleanerburnthanstandardbriquettes

+Burnsalmostashotaslumpcharcoal+Producesalong,evenheat,likebriquettes−Abitmoreexpensivethanregularcharcoal

PREPARINGANDLIGHTINGTHECOALSHOWMUCHCHARCOALDOYOUNEED?Agoodruleofthumbistouse1poundofcharcoal(about30briquettes)perpoundofmeat.HOWSHOULDYOULIGHTTHECHARCOAL?Ifindthattheeasiestandsafestwaytolightacharcoalfireiswithachimneystarter.Touseit,removethetopgrate fromthegrill, fill thechimneystarterwithcoals,andplace itonthebottomgrillgrate.Placecrumplednewspaperunderthestarterandlightwithagaslighterorlongmatch.Thefirewillignitethecoals.Wait

untilmostofthecoalsturnapalegrayashycolor,thenpourthemontothebottomgrateand,usingalongmetalforkorspatula,arrangethemasdesired(inaheaptoonesideforahotsideandacoolside,orinaneven layer for a consistent heat level). Finish by putting the top gratebackintoplace.Yourcharcoalfireisnowreadytogo.

GRILLINGTHEMEATHOWTOGRILLQUICK-COOKINGCUTSMeatsthatcookinlessthan30minutesareconsideredquickcooking(bonelesschickenbreastsorcutlets,sausages,burgers, kebabs, chops, steaks, and so on). Thebestway to grill thesecutsisoverintense,evenheat,whichisachievedbyevenlydistributingthecoalsoverthebottomgrate.HOW TO GRILL SLOWER-COOKING CUTSToughor largecutsofmeat suchas ribs,brisket,andporkshoulder,whichrequiremorethan30minutestocook,shouldbesearedoverhighheat,thencookeduntildoneovermoderatelyhigh heat. In order to do this, create two heat zones on your grill bypilingmostof thecharcoalononehalfof thebottomgrate.This largepilewillproduceintenseheat:placeyourmeatonthegratedirectlyoverthepiletosearit.Thenmovethemeatovertotheotherhalfofthegrillgrate—thecooler,orindirectheatside—tocontinuecooking.Nowclosethegrilllidtotraptheheatandallowyourmeattofinishcooking.Whilecharcoaldeliversintenseheat,itdoesburndownandmayneedtobereplenishedduringthetimethatyou’regrilling.Therearetwocuesforwhentorestockyourcharcoal,onevisualandonebyfeel.Ifyouseequiteabitofashbuilduparoundyourcoals,chancesareyou’llneedtoaddmorecharcoal.(Ashisasignofcombustedcoal,butalsomutestheheatofstill-livecoals.)Butbeforeaddingmore,placeyourhand1inchabovethegrillgratetogaugehowmuchheatthecoalsareemitting.Ifyou can hold your hand above the grate for 2 seconds you’re cookingover high heat, 3 seconds ismedium-high heat, 4 seconds ismedium,andsoon.Mostcharcoalgrillshaveahingedtopgratethatliftsuptoallowyoutoaddmorecoals.Whenyou’vedeterminedthatit’stimetodoso,moveyourfoodoffofthehingedareaanduselong-handledtongstoliftopenthe grate; place new coals over the burning coals (it will take a fewminutesbeforetheheatbeginstointensify).

ONCEYOU’REDONEWHATDOYOUDOWITHTHEBURNTCHARCOALANDASHESWHENYOU’REDONEGRILLING?Waitforthecharcoaltoburnoutcompletely,turntoash,andcooldownbeforeyoudisposeofit.

DONENESSTIPSRemember thatmeats continue cooking after you have removed them from the grill. As a rule of

thumb,removelarge,thickcutsofmeatwhentheyhit10degreesbelowyourdesiredtemperature.

Small,thincutsshouldberemovedabout5degreesbeforetheyreachtheirmark.Thefollowingchart

providesdonenessguidelinesforbeef,veal,lamb,andpork.

Keepinmind:

•Porkshouldbecookedtomediumormediumwell.

•Poultryshouldbecookedto165°F.

•Alltypesofsausageshouldbecookedto160°F.

•Fishshouldbecookedtodesireddoneness.

RUBS,MARINADES&GLAZES

Throughoutthisbookyouwillfindallsortsofflavorcombinationsthataddvibrancyandzesttoyourfoodthroughtheuseofherbs,spices,andcondiments.Latincuisine isknownfor itspopof flavor, so feel free topickoutoneofthemanyrubs,marinades,orglazesfoundhereandturnyoursimpleweeknightgrilledchickenbreastintosomethingexciting.

USINGRUBSRubs are combinations of dry spices. They may or may not containsugar.Rubsthatcontainbrownsugarshouldbestoredinthefreezertopreventthesugarfromdryingoutandturningintohardclumps.Spicerubsshouldbeappliedabout5minutesbeforeyouarereadytogrill.Thesaltintherubmaydryoutyourmeatifyouleaveitonlonger.Ifyourrubdoesnotcontainsalt,makesuretoseasonyourfoodbeforeapplyingtherub.Makesureyourgrillgratesareoiledbeforeplacingrub-crustedfoodonthem.

Clockwise,fromtopleft:ChipotleChileRub,ChileRub,andCoffeeRub

USINGMARINADESMarinadesarecombinationsofwetanddryingredientsthatmayincludefreshherbs,spices,vinegar,wine,and/orcitrusjuices.Theymayormaynotcontainoil.Bealert,asoil-basedmarinadescancauseflare-upsonthegrill.Fishshouldnotbeleftinhighlyacidicmarinadesformorethan20minutes.Toensureevenlymarinatedmeat,placeyourmeatandmarinadeinaresealableplasticbagandpressoutasmuchairasyoucanbeforesealing.

USINGGLAZESGlazes are combinations of wet and dry ingredients, either sweet orsavory,thatarebrushedontofoodtogiveitaglossyappearance.Mostgrilling glazes have some sort of sugary ingredient, such as honey orfruitpulp,thatactsasacaramelizingagent.Loweryourheatabitwhenaddingglazesasthesugarstheycontaincaneasilyburnandturnbitter.Addingapinchofcayennetoaglazehelpsbalancethesweetnessandgivesitasubtlekick.

Clockwise,fromtopcenter:AnchoChilePaste,CitrusOreganoMarinade,Chimichurri,AchioteMarinade,CitrusGarlic

Marinade,Soy&ChileMarinade

RubsChipotleChileRubMexicanFronteraCookoutChileRubYucatecanBarbecueCoffeeRubNicaraguanRanchRoast

MarinadesCitrusOreganoMarinadeMexicanFronteraCookoutAnchoChilePasteMexicanFronteraCookoutAchioteMarinadeYucatecanBarbecueCitrusGarlicMarinadeCubanCookoutSoy&ChileMarinadeThePeruvianGrillFreshParsleySauce/ChimichurriTheArgentineGrill

GlazesHoneyLimeGlazeMexicanFronteraCookoutHoneyAppleCiderGlazeYucatecanBarbecueCoconutLimeGlazeBrazilianRodizio

SaucesGuacamoleMexicanFronteraCookoutCharredTomatilloSauceMexicanFronteraCookoutChipotleCremaMexicanFronteraCookoutPineappleSalsaMexicanFronteraCookoutCremaMexicanFronteraCookoutFieryTomatoSalsaYucatecanBarbecueChunkyFreshTomatoSauce/PicodeGalloNicaraguanRanchRoastGarlickyCubanMojoCubanCookoutMangoSalsaCubanCookoutTangy Avocado Sauce/Salsa Guasca Northern AndeanBarbecueFreshTomatoSalsaNorthernAndeanBarbecueSpicyYellowChileSauceThePeruvianGrillHuancainaSauceThePeruvianGrillFreshParsleySauce/ChimichurriNicaraguanRanchRoastCharredCornSalsaChileanSeafoodCookoutChilean Hot Pepper Salsa/Salsa Pebre Chilean SeafoodCookoutHotPepper&LimeSauceBrazilianRodizioSmokedPaprikaOilBrazilianRodizio

MexicanFronteraCookout

DrinksMargarita

StartersGrilledQuesadillaswithCharredPoblano&JalapeñoChiles/QuesadillasdeRajasTwoGuacamoles:Traditional&Chipotle

MainCoursesChile-MarinatedPorkTacoswithPineappleSalsa/TacosalPastorChipotle-RubbedSkirtSteakTacos/TacosalCarbonconChipotleCitrus- &Oregano-Marinated Split Chicken /Pollo Entero Adobado conJugoCitricoyOregano

Condiments&SidesCremaCharredGreenOnionsCharredTomatilloSauceGrilledCornontheCobwithChipotleCrema&QuesoFresco/ElotealaParillaFreshRadish&CucumberSaladBeer-StewedBeanswithChiles/FrijolesBorrachos

DessertMexicanChocolateCupcakeswithCajetaButtercream

The northern Mexican frontera, or border, is home to a very distinctstyleofcooking.Theareaislandlocked,sofishandshellfishareseldomseen;beef,chicken,andporkaremajorproteins,asaredriedbeans.Theprominenceof beans comes from the largeAztec influence,which stillexists today. This important indigenous civilization is also responsiblefor the cuisine’s emphasis on corn and corn-based foods (think grilledsweet corn, tortillas, tamales, and soon)as thecorn (maize) cropwascentral to the Aztec traditions. Fiery chiles, both fresh and dried, andespecially chipotles, are essential to frontera cooking, as are intensespices such as cumin and dried oregano. Tomatoes, cilantro, and limearealsokeyingredients.

{MENUGAMEPLAN}

Onedayinadvance:•Bakethecupcakes(holdoffonmakingthebuttercream).Coverwithplasticwrap.Storage:roomtemperature•Soakthebeans.Storage:roomtemperature

Thenightbefore:•Cookthebeans.Storage:refrigerator•Marinatethepork.Storage:refrigerator•Marinatethechicken.Storage:refrigerator•Preparetherubforthesteak.Storage:freezer•Ifmakinghomemadecrema,doitnow.Storage:refrigerator•Preparethechipotlecremaforthecorn.Storage:refrigerator

Onthemorningof:•Makethebuttercreamandpipeontothecupcakes.Storage:roomtemperature•Crumblethequesofresco.Storage:roomtemperature•Preparethecharredtomatillosauce.Storage:roomtemperature•Roastandcharthechilesforthequesadillas.Storage:roomtemperature•Preparetheradish&cucumbersalad.Storage:refrigerator

•Preparetheradish&cucumbersalad.Storage:refrigerator•Preparethepineapplesalsafortheporktacos.Storage:roomtemperature

Twotothreehoursbefore:•Prepareapitcherofmargaritas.Storage:refrigerator•Bringthebeansandthecrematoroomtemperature.•Soakthecorn.•Assemblethequesadillasandcoverwithadamptowel.Storage:roomtemperature•Starttheguacamolebymincingorgrindingthearomaticvegetables.Donotaddavocadoyet.Storage:roomtemperature•Washandtrimthegreenonions.Storage:roomtemperature•Makethetortillapackets.Storage:roomtemperature

Inthehourbefore(setup):•Begintoreheatthebeans.•Setupthebeveragebarwithmargaritapitcher,ice,andglasses.•Bringouttotable:ChipsforguacamoleTomatillosauceCremaQuesofrescoPineapplesalsa

Asyoureventunfolds:•Servemargaritas.•Finishtheguacamole(s)bymashingintheavocadoandseasoning.•Grillthequesadillas.•Servethestarters.•Grillthechicken.•Grillthecorninitshusks.•Grillthepork.•Removethehusksandcharthecorn.

•Removethehusksandcharthecorn.•Placetherubonthesteakandgrill.•Oil,season,andgrillthegreenonions.•Heatthetortillas.•Bringouttheradishandcucumbersalad.•Bringoutthebeans.•Servethemaincoursesandsides.•Servedessert.

MARGARITA

I don’t know what it is about margaritas, but I find theyimmediatelymake everyone relaxed and happy. Andwhether youlikeyours frozenoron the rocks,withorwithout salt, thisclassiccocktailisasnaptomake.IliketoprepareapitcherofmargaritasafewhoursinadvanceandkeepitchilledsoI’mreadyformyguestsassoonastheyarrive(seeCookingNotes,below).Makes1cocktail

Saltforrimmingtheglass(optional)Ice1½ouncestequila1ouncelimejuice(from1to2limes)½ounceCointreau

PREPARE THE GLASS If using, pour a handful of salt on a small dish. Use adampnapkintowettheedgesoftherimofashortrocksglassandinvertitontothedishtorimtheglasswithsalt.

MIXTHECOCKTAILFilltheglasswithiceandaddthetequila,limejuice,andCointreau.Stirwellandserve.

FROZENLIMEADEMARGARITA

Trythisforanunexpectedtwist!serves6TO8

Ice6ouncesfrozenlimeadeconcentrate6ouncestequila2ouncesCointreau

Fill a blender all thewaywith ice.Add the frozen limeade concentrate, tequila,andCointreau.Blenduntilsmooth.Serveandenjoy!

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Cointreau Cointreau is a premium brand of triple secproduced in France. It is an orange-flavored liqueur madefromthedriedpeelsofSevilleoranges.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Themargaritarecipecaneasilybemultipliedandmixedinapitcherseveralhoursinadvance.

Tomakeapitcherfor8:12ouncestequila8ouncesfreshlimejuice4ouncesCointreau

Keepthepitcherrefrigeratedandpourthemargaritasintosalt-rimmed,ice-filledglasseswhenyouarereadytoserve.

GrilledQuesadillaswithCharredPoblano&JalapeñoChiles

GRILLEDQUESADILLASwithCharredPoblano&JalapeñoChiles

{QUESADILLASDERAJAS}

Grilled quesadillas are fun, easy starters for any cookout. TheseubiquitousMexican snacks are as easy to assemble as they are togrill and will immediately whet your guests’ appetites. I love thecharred smokiness that roastedpoblano chiles (rajas) provide, andmy“hot-head”friendslovetheaddedjalapeños.Ifyouarenotafanof theheat, substitutegrilledor sautéedmushrooms,bell peppers,orgreenonionsforthechiles.Makes6quesadillas

4poblanochiles6jalapeñochiles3cupsshreddedMontereyJackcheese12corntortillasVegetableoil

CharredTomatilloSauceCrema,homemadeorstorebought

ROAST THE CHILESHeatyourgrill tohigh (550°F)andclose the lid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwith

alongpairoftongs.Placethepoblanoandjalapeñochilesdirectlyonthegrillgratesand

allow them to char on all sides (you are looking for the skin to turnblack). It should takeabout3minutesper side fora totalof about12minutes.Tohelpspeed theprocess,close thegrill lid.Whenthechilesare charred all over, seal them in a plastic bag and set aside for 5

minutes. Thiswill trap steam, allowing the skins to separate from theflesh.Ifyouaregoingtogrillthequesadillasrightaway,keepthegrillonhighandclosethelid.Remove the chiles from the bag, cut off the stems, and, if desired,removetheseeds(thiswilldecreasetheheat).Lightlyscrapethecharredskinoffthechileswiththebladeofyourknife.Alternatively,ifyourskinis not sensitive to the hot chiles, you can remove the skin with yourfingers. To preserve their smoky flavor, do not rinse the chiles underwater; it’sokay if someof thecharredskinstaysattached to thechile.Cutthechilesintolongstrips.Setaside.

ASSEMBLE THE QUESADILLASPlacea tortillaonyourwork surfaceand topwithapproximately¼cupofcheese.Layabout⅙oftheroastedchilestripsoverthecheeseandtopwithanother¼cupofcheeseandasecondcorntortilla. Repeat with the remaining ingredients until you’ve formed 6quesadillas.

GRILL THE QUESADILLAS If your grill is not heated, heat your grill to high(550°F)andclose the lid.Waitat least15minutesbefore loweringtheheattomedium-highandcontinuing.Lightlybrushonesideofthequesadillaswithvegetableoilandplacethemoiledsidedownonthegrill.Cookfor4to5minutes,oruntilthebottomtortilladevelopsgrillmarksandturnsgoldenbrown.Lightlybrushthetopsofthequesadillaswithabitmorevegetableoiland,beingcarefulnottobreakthemopen,flipthemoverandcookforanother3minutes.

SERVE Allow the quesadillas to cool for a fewminutes before cutting inhalforquarters.Servewiththecharredtomatillosauceandthecrema.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Poblano chiles These dark green chiles measure up to 5inchesinlengthandhaveanintenselyfruityflavorwithvery

mildheat.Roastedpoblanosslicedintostripsarereferredtoasrajas,atermthatalsoappliestootherroastedandslicedchiles.MontereyJack cheeseMonterey Jack is a semihard cow’smilk cheese thatmeltsverywell. It is theAmericancheesemost similar to queso Oaxaca, which is a mozzarella-stylecheesetraditionallyusedinMexicoforquesadillas.CremaDonotconfusethisMexicanstaplewithsourcream.Mexican crema is saltier and has a thinner consistencydespiteitsricherflavor.Itservesasaneutralizerfortheheatofchiles,makingitagreatoptiontohavearoundforthosewhodon’tliketheirfoodtoohot.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The chiles can be roastedwell in advance. The quesadillascan be preassembled and left at room temperature with adamp towel covering them so the corn tortillas do not dryout.Itisbesttogrillthequesadillasrightbeforeserving,asthecheesetendstoturngummyasitsits.

TWOGUACAMOLES:TRADITIONAL&CHIPOTLE

I can’t think of any food that brightens up a party more thanguacamole—astapleatallMexicanparties.Thereneverseemstobeenough—and when you see how easy it is to make, you will bepreparing buckets of it (you will never buy premade guacamoleagain). Here, I am giving you two variations: one is fortraditionalists who like their guacamole made simply with ajalapeño, while the other adds an element of smokiness byincorporatingachipotlechile.Serves10

TRADITIONALGUACAMOLE

¼whiteonion,coarselychopped(about¼cup)1jalapeñochile,stemmed,seeded(optional),andchopped½cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,plusafewsprigsforgarnish

1teaspoonkoshersalt3Hassavocados1tablespoonlimejuice(from½to1lime)

CREATE A PASTE WITH THE VEGETABLES Put the choppedonion in amound in thecenterofyourcuttingboard.Topitwiththechoppedjalapeñoandthenthecilantro.Sprinkle the saltover thevegetables.Usinga sharpchef’sknife, chopand crush thevegetablesuntil they arevery finelymincedintoapaste.Thesaltwillcausesomeof themoisture tobedrawnoutfromthevegetables,whichwillhelptoblendtheirflavors.Transferthevegetablepastetoamediumbowl.

SCOOP OUT AND MASH THE AVOCADOS Cut the avocados in half lengthwise andremovetheseeds.Usingaspoon,scoopoutallofthefleshandplaceitinthebowlwiththevegetables.

Apotatomasherortarttamperisagreattoolforthisnextstep.Ifyoudon’thaveeither,adinnerforkwilldojustfine.Mash the avocado until you achieve the consistency you want. Thetextureisentirelyuptoyou.Somepeopleliketheirguacamolechunky,whileotherspreferitsmooth.Ilikeitsomewhereinthemiddle,whereIcanseesomechunksofavocadobutmostofitiswellblended.

SEASON WITH LIME JUICE AND SERVE Add the lime juice to the guacamole andcombinewell.Tasteforseasoningandadjustifneeded.Place the guacamole in a serving bowl and garnish with cilantrosprigs.

CHIPOTLEGUACAMOLE

¼whiteonion,coarselychopped(about¼cup)1cannedchipotlechile,stemmedandchopped½cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,plusafewsprigsforgarnish1teaspoonkoshersalt3Hassavocados1tablespoonlimejuice(from½to1lime)

CREATE A PASTE WITH THE VEGETABLES Put the choppedonion in amound in thecenterofyourcuttingboard.Topitwiththechoppedchipotlechileandthen the cilantro. Sprinkle the salt over the vegetables. Using a sharpchef’s knife, chop and crush the vegetables until they are very finelyminced into a paste. The salt will cause some of the moisture to bedrawnout from the vegetables,whichwill help to blend their flavors.Transferthevegetablepastetoamediumbowl.

SCOOP OUT AND MASH THE AVOCADOS Cut the avocados in half lengthwise andremovetheseeds.Usingaspoon,scoopoutallofthefleshandplaceitinthebowlwiththevegetables.Apotatomasherortarttamperisagreattoolforthisnextstep.Ifyoudon’thaveeither,adinnerforkwilldojustfine.

Mashtheavocadountilyouachievetheconsistencyyouwant.

SEASON WITH LIME JUICE AND SERVE Add the lime juice to the guacamole andcombinewell.Tasteforseasoningandadjustifneeded.Place the guacamole in a serving bowl and garnish with cilantrosprigs.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

HassavocadosThesearealsoknownasCaliforniaavocados.They have a rich nutty flavor and a creamy texture. Fortheserecipes,useonlyfullyripenedonesthatarecompletelydarkandeasilyyieldtolightpressure.Chipotle chiles These are smoked jalapeños.As such, theyare only founddried or canned in adobo sauce. I find thatthey tend to have a bitmoreheat than fresh jalapeños.Aswithany chile, you candecrease theheatby removing theseeds.

TECHNIQUES

ScoopingoutanavocadoCuttheavocadoinhalfbyslicingitlengthwisewithalargeknife.Onceyouhittheseedinthecenter, slide your knife along its perimeter to halve theavocado.Opentheavocadobygentlytwistingandpullingoneachhalf.Theseedwillstayembeddedinonehalf.Removetheseedbytappingitwiththesharpedgeofyourknife, causing the knife to become wedged into the seed.Twist the knife a bit to dislodge the seed. Use a spoon toscoopouttheavocadoflesh.UsingamolcajeteAmolcajete isamortarandpestlemadeofvolcanicrock.Ifyouhaveone,useitinsteadofaknifetogrind the vegetables to a paste. Place the aromaticingredients in the bowl and sprinkle with salt, then mash

them with the pestle. Fold in and smash the avocado andfinishbysprinklingtheguacamolewithlimejuice.Like cast iron pans, molcajetes tend to be handed down

fromgeneration to generation, as they get betterwith age.Molcajetesaregreat formakingguacamoleandsauces,andthey also function as beautiful serving pieces. If youpurchaseanewone,keepinmindyouwillhavetoseasonitfollowingthemanufacturer’sinstructions.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Guacamole isbesteaten rightafter ithasbeenprepared. Ifyouneedtostoreitforashortperiodoftime,sprinklesomelime juiceover itandplaceapieceofplasticwrapdirectlyonitssurface.Thiswillkeeptheavocadofromturningdarkforabout1hour.

CHILE-MARINATEDPORKTACOSwithPineappleSalsa

{TACOSALPASTOR}

Thisisanupdatedversionoftacosalpastor,theporkthatiscookedonarotisseriespit,thenrotateduprightwithaskeweredpineappleplaced on top of the spit (the technique is similar to that used tocook lambmeat for gyros). Themeat continues to cook over lowheatasthepineapplejuiceslowlydripsdownandflavorsthepork.Thisversion,modified forgrillingathome,marinates thinlyslicedpork with a traditional chile paste. The spicy pineapple salsabrightens up the grilled meat with fresh and vibrant flavors. Myneighbors are always peeking over to seewhat I’m cookingwhenthismeathitsthegrill!Serves8

AnchoChilePaste8clovesgarlic,peeled¼cuppackedlightbrownsugar¼cupanchochilepowder4cannedchipotlechilesinadobo,stemmed2teaspoonsgroundcumin1teaspoonblackpepper1tablespoondriedoregano2teaspoonssalt½cupapplecidervinegar

5poundsboneless,skinlessporkshoulder,cutagainstthegraininto½-inchsteaks

PineappleSalsa1pineapple,peeled,cored,sliced,anddicedsmall(about4cups)

1pineapple,peeled,cored,sliced,anddicedsmall(about4cups)2serranochiles,stemmed,seeded(optional),andfinelychopped1redonion,finelychopped(about1cup)1cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,choppedJuiceof2limes(about3tablespoons)1teaspoonsalt

16to20corntortillas3limes,quarteredCilantrosprigs,forgarnish

PREPARE THE ANCHO CHILE PASTE AND MARINATE THE PORK Using a food processor orblender,pureealltheingredientsforthechilepasteuntilsmooth.Placetheporkinalargeresealableplasticbag(youmayneedtousetwo bags) and pour in the marinade. Massage the marinade into thepork,takingcaretothoroughlycoatallthepieces.Pressoutasmuchairas possible from the bag, seal it, and place it in the refrigerator tomarinateforatleast30minutes,orovernight.Makesureyoubringtheporktonearlyroomtemperaturebeforegrilling.

PREPARE THE SALSA Combine all the ingredients for the salsa in a mediumbowlandtosswell.Tasteforseasoningandadjustifnecessary.SetasideGRILLTHEPORKANDTORTILLASHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Wait at least 15 minutes before lowering the heat to medium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Meanwhile,preparetortillapacketsforthegrill.Lightlysprinkleeachtortillawithwaterandstacktheminbatchesofabout5inthecenterofsheetsofaluminumfoil.Foldthefoilshutintopacketsandsetaside.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Withmarinadestillclingingtoit,placetheporkonthe grill. Close the lid and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until theundersidedevelopsdark,charredgrillmarks.Lowertheheattomedium

and turn the pork over. Close the lid and continue cooking for anadditional 5minutes. Themeat is readywhen both sides of themeatdevelopcharredgrillmarks.Becausetheporkiscutsothin,youcanrelyon its appearance and do not have to bother taking an internaltemperaturetomakesureitiscookedthrough.Removetheporkfromthegrillandallowittorestfor5minutes.Inthe meantime, increase the heat to medium-high and wait 5 minutesbefore continuing. Place the tortilla packets on the grill, close the lid,and heat for 5minutes. Place the heated tortillas on a dish and keepthemwarmbyplacingahot,damptoweloverthem.

CHOPTHEMEATANDSERVEChoptheporkinto½-inchpieces.Placeonaservingplatterandgarnishwithlimewedgesandcilantrosprigs.Servewiththepineapple salsaandwarmed tortillas,allowingyourguests toassembletheirowntacos.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

PorkshoulderThiscutcomesfromtheupperportionofthefrontlegs.Itissomewhatfatty,withlotsofflavor.Althoughit’sconsideredatoughcutofmeat, if it iscutthinlybeforecooking,itcanbegrilledwithoutbecomingtoughordry.Although it can have a thick skin and large bone, porkshoulder can also be purchased in a boneless and skinlesscut, which is easiest for cutting up into steaks. If you areusingabone-inshoulderwithskin,cutoff theskinandcutthemeat off around thebone.Youwillmost likely endupwithodd-sizedchunksandslicesofpork.Don’tworryaboutit—just be carefulwhen grilling that the smaller pieces donotovercook.SerranochilesSerranochilesarehotterthanjalapeñosbutmilderthanhabaneros,makingthemtheperfectcompromiseon heat. Feel free to use the chile of your choice in thequantity of your choice, but don’t eliminate the chiles

entirely, as it offers a great flavor balance to the sweetpineapple.

TECHNIQUES

Choppingmeat for tacos To make tacos easier to eat byhand,all fillingsshouldbe inbite-sizepieces.This includesthe meat, which should be cut up into ½-inch pieces—irregularshapesarefine.Choosing a pineapple You cannot tell how sweet apineapple is by looking at it, because its color it not anindicator of its taste. Look for fruit with bright-lookingleaves and avoid anywith dark spots on the skin. Becausepineapplesdonotripenfurther(getsweeter)aftertheyhavebeen harvested, they are ready to eat as soon as they arepicked. They do decrease in acidity over time, which canmakethemseemtogrowsomewhatsweeter.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Mostofthisrecipecanbemadeinadvance.Theporkcanbemarinatedandthesalsapreparedthenightbeforeandleftintherefrigerator.Thetortillapacketscanbeassembledafewhoursbeforeheating.

Chipotle-RubbedSkirtSteakTacos

CHIPOTLE-RUBBEDSKIRTSTEAKTACOS

{TACOSALCARBONCONCHIPOTLE}

Nothing defines Mexican street food like a taco. Charred meat istuckedinsideasoftcorntortillaandlayeredwithvibrantsaucesandcrunchy toppings. I love to serve these addictivewrapswhen I’mentertaininginmybackyard.Takinginspirationfromtacotrucks,Iset everything out on platters and allowmy guests to build theirown tacos. It’s not only lesswork forme, but everyone is happy,since they get to eat what, when, and how much they want.Serves8

ChipotleChileRub2tablespoonschipotlepowder2tablespoonsanchochilepowder2tablespoonspackedlightbrownsugar1tablespoongroundcumin2tablespoonskoshersalt

3poundsskirtsteak,trimmedofextrafatandcutintopiecesthatwillfitonyourgrill

Glaze⅓cuphoney¼cuplimejuice(from3or4limes)

32corntortillas1cupquesofrescoorfetacheese,crumbledFreshRadish&CucumberSalad

CharredTomatilloSauce4limes,cutintosmallwedges

RUBTHEBEEFWITHTHECHIPOTLERUBHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Wait at least15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Preparetherubbyplacingalloftheingredientsinasmallbowl;mixwelltocombineandsetaside.About5minutesbeforeyouarereadytogrill,pattheruballoverthesteak.Ifindithelpfultosprinklesomeoftherubontoacuttingboardand then press the steak onto it, making sure to coat all sides andcrevassesofthemeat.Allowthebeeftorestforabout5minutesbeforegrilling.

GRILLTHENGLAZETHEBEEFOilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Placethesteakonthegrillandcookwiththelidopenfor3minutes.Turn thesteakoverandcook foranother3minuteswith the lidopen.Removethesteakfromthegrillandplaceonacuttingboard.Usingthesamepaper towel–tongsystem,clean thegrillofanyspiceclumpsandreapplyvegetableoil.Preparetheglazebyplacingthehoneyandlimejuiceinasmallbowlandmixingwithaforkuntilwellcombined.Liberallybrushtheglazeononesideofthebeefandplacethemeat,glazesidedown,ontothegrill.Brush more glaze on the top of the steak and allow to cook for 2minutes.Turnthesteakoverandcookforanadditional2minutestoreachaninternal temperature of 125° to 130°F for medium-rare, or continuecooking until you reach your desired level of doneness. Keep bastingwithglazeifyoucookthebeeflonger.Removethemeatfromthegrillandsetitonacuttingboardtorestforatleast5minutes.

HEATTHETORTILLASANDCHOPTHEBEEFInthemeantime,placethecorntortillason

a dish and cover with a damp paper towel. Heat the tortillas in themicrowave for 30 to 60 seconds, until heated through. Alternatively,lightlysprinkleeachofthetortillaswithwaterandwrapsmallbatches(about5tortillaseach)infoil.Heatthefoilpacketsonthecoveredgrillforafewminutes.Placetheheatedtortillasonadishandkeepwarmbyplacingahotdamptoweloverthem.Nowchopthebeefintobite-sizepieces.Beginbyslicingthemeatintolongstripsagainstthegrainandthencutthosestripscrosswiseinto½-inchpieces. Ifyouhaveanyremainingglaze, slathersomeof itonthemeat.

SERVETHETACOSSetoutplattersandbowlscontainingthebeef,thewarmedcorn tortillas, crumbled cheese, radish and cucumber salad, tomatillosauce,andlimewedgesandallowyourgueststohelpthemselves.

THEBASICSOFTACOASSEMBLY

1. Start with two corn tortillas. Because tacos are layered with sauces andtoppings,thesecondtortillaservesasinsuranceincasethefirstfallsapart.

2. Place themeat down the center of the tortilla. Always use well-seasonedmeatthatischoppedupintobite-sizepiecesforeasyeating.

3.Drizzleonasalsa.Salsasnotonlyprovideflavorandmoisture,theycanalsoaddadditionalheat.

4. Finish with the topping(s) of your choice. Typical toppings are crumbledcheese(quesofresco),crunchyradishes,pickledonions,andcilantrosprigs.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTS

Chipotle powder Chipotles are smoked jalapeños, so theydeliver both smoke and heat (great flavors to grill with).Chipotles are sometimes dried and then ground into apowder;thisallowsyoutousethemasaspice.Justkeepinmindthatchipotlepowderpacksafierypunch.

QuesofrescoServedwithmanyMexicandishes,thistangy,salty cow’s milk cheese is similar to farmer’s cheese. It ispurchased as a large disk orwedges and served crumbled.Quesofrescodoesnotmeltwell.Fetacheeseisoftenusedasasubstitute.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Therubcanbepreparedinadvanceandstoredforweeks,solongas it’skept inanairtightcontainer in the freezer (youwillneedtobreakfreezer-storedrubapartwithyourfingersbeforeusing). If left at room temperature, thebrown sugarwilldryoutandharden.Youwillnotonlyhavesmallhardsugar balls in the rub, the meat will not benefit from thesweetflavor.

Citrus-&Oregano-MarinatedSPLITCHICKEN{POLLOENTEROADOBADOCONJUGOCITRICOYOREGANO}

If someone asks me to describe quintessential Latin barbecuedchicken, I say it’s garlicky and tangy with charred, crispy skin.Althoughthisrecipe ispartof theMexicanchapter, it reallycouldhaveappearedinanyof theothers. It’s trulyfinger licking!Wholechickens are cost-effective, and they grill evenly and easily whenbutterflied,whichismucheasiertodothanitsounds.However,youcan certainly use precut chicken; just make sure to use bone-in,skin-onpiecesformoreflavor.Serves8

Citrus&OreganoMarinade1onion,coarselychopped10clovesgarlic,peeled1⅓cupsorangejuice(from3to4oranges)1⅓cupslimejuice(fromabout16limes)3tablespoonsdriedoregano2teaspoonsgroundcumin1½cupslightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems¼cupoliveoil2teaspoonssalt1teaspoonblackpepper

2(4-pound)wholechickens,splitinhalf,or8poundsbone-in,skin-onchickenparts

2limes,cutintowedges

PREPARE THE MARINADE Place all the marinade ingredients in a blender andpureeuntil smooth.Reserve about 1 cupof themarinade as a bastingliquidandsetaside.

MARINATETHECHICKENSPatthechickensdry,placeinadeepbakingdish,andseason all sides with salt and pepper. Pour the marinade over thechickens, making sure all sides are well coated. Allow to marinate atleast1hour,orovernight.

GRILLTHECHICKENSHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwitha long pair of tongs. Place the chickens skin side down on the grill.Keepingtheheatonhighandthelidopen,grillfor10minutestocrispthe skin and render some of the fat. Lower the heat to medium-high(450°F)andbastethechickenwiththereservedmarinadebeforeturningthe chickens over and closing the lid. Cook for another 10 minutesbefore flipping the chickens a final time. Baste the chicken again andcookfor10moreminutes,oruntilthelegmeatregisters155°F.When the chickensare ready, the jointswill bevery loose.Youwillneedalargespatulatoremovethechickensfromthegrill.Allowthemtorestfor5minutesbeforecuttingthemup.

SERVEPlacethecut-upchickenonaplatterandservewithlimewedges.

COOKINGNOTES

TECHNIQUE

SplittingawholechickenAsplitchicken,alsoreferredtoas butterflied or spatchcock chicken, is a flattened chickenthat has had its backbone and breastbone removed. It’seasiertodothanitmaysound!Step1:RemovethebackboneWhileyoucanuseaknife,it’sbest to use kitchen shears (scissors) for this. Place the

chickenonyourcuttingboardbackside facingup,with thetail end and drumsticks close to you. Reach into its cavityandremovethesackof innardsandpullawaytheextrafatfromaroundopening.Holdingon to the tail, cutalongoneside of the backbone (so you are cutting through to thecavity),andthentheother.Youwillhearcrackingfromthesmall rib bones that you are cutting through. Discard thebone.Openthechickenandgentlypressdownonbothsidesofthebreast and thighs to flatten the chicken so that it staysopen.Step 2: Remove the breastbone Rotate the chicken 180degreessothewingsareclosetoyou.Useaparingknifetocut a small slit over the cartilage located in the centerdirectly over the breastbone. Pop the breastbone out bybending the breast meat back with your hands. Run yourthumband index fingeralong thebreastbone to separate itfromtheflesh.Theboneshouldcomerightout.Discardit.Step3:TuckinthelegsUseaparingknifetomakea1-inchslitwhere the breast ends and the thigh begins. Repeat ontheotherside.Takeadrumstickandpassitthroughtheslitonthesameside,makingsuretoinsertthelegthroughtheskin side. The entire leg does not go through, just the topportion.Fromtheskinsideofthechicken,thelegswilllooklike they are curled up in a circular pattern. Again, repeatwiththeotherside.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thecitrusmarinadecanbemadeuptoacoupleofdays inadvance and kept refrigerated. The chicken can be leftmarinatingovernight.

CREMA

This condiment is a staple in Mexican cooking. It has a thinnerconsistencythansourcreamandaricherflavor.Iabsolutelyloveit,and was so relieved when I figured out a way tomakemy own,sinceIcan’talwaysmakeittothespecialtystoretopicksomeup.Itisamustwhenyouareservingspicyfood,asthecreammellowstheheat.Makes2cups

1cupsourcream1cupheavycream1teaspoonsalt

MIX THE CREAM AND SALT Combine all the ingredients in a bowl, cover withplasticwrap,andsetitoutatroomtemperaturefor3hours.

SERVEORSTORETransfertoaservingbowlifusingrightaway,ortransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateifstoring.

COOKINGNOTES

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thecremacanbemadeandstoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforaslongasthesourcreamwouldlast(sopayattention to the sour cream’sexpirationdate).Bring toroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

CharredGreenOnions

CHARREDGREENONIONS

Sosimple,yetsodelicious!Ifyoulikegrilledonionsbuthavenevergrilledgreenonionsbefore,youwillwonderwhyyouneverthoughtofitbefore.They’reeasytomaneuveronthegrillandaredeliciouswhenlayeredinatacoorjustpoppedintoyourmouth.Serves8

2bunchesgreenonions,darkgreentopsandrootstrimmedCanolaoroliveoilSaltandblackpepper

PREPARETHEGREENONIONSLightlydrizzlethegreenonionswithoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

GRILLTHEGREENONIONSHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforeloweringtheheattomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Cut an8-inchpieceof aluminum foil and set asidenext to thegrill.

Placethegreenonionsonthegrillandcookfor4minutes,oruntilyouseegrillmarksappearontheonions.Fliptheonionsoverandcookforan additional 4minutes. Place the cut piece of foil onone side of thegrill.Usingtongstopickuptheonions,placethegreentopsonthefoil(leavethethickerwhitepartsdirectlyonthegrill)andcontinuegrillingtheonionsforanadditional4minutesperside.

SERVERemovetheonionsfromthegrill,placeonaplatter,andserve.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTS

Green onions Also referred to as scallions, these are

immature onions that are milder tasting than the morematurebulbs.Theyareidentifiedbytheirgreentops,whiteroots,andlong,thinbodies.

CHARREDTOMATILLOSAUCE

Ilovetomatillosauce—itsspicy,tangyflavorisincrediblyaddicting.I used to always make a fresh sauce by pureeing the rawingredients,untilonedayIsawafriendgrillsometomatillosforhisversion. I took that method one step farther and grilled thejalapeñosandgreenonionsforanevendeepercharredflavor.NowIcan’tdecideifIlikethefreshorcharredsaucebetter,soI’mgivingyourecipesforboth,andonerecipethatalsousesavocado(seetheVariations,below).Makesabout2cups

10tomatillos,husksremoved,rinsed2jalapeñochiles,stemmedandseeded(ifdesired)4greenonions,darkgreentopsandrootstrimmed1cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems½teaspoonsalt

GRILLTHEVEGETABLESHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalong pair of tongs. Place the tomatillos, jalapeños, and green onionsdirectly on the grill. Allow the skin of the vegetables to char all overbeforeremovingthemfromthegrill,about4minutesperside.Thetotaltimeeachvegetableneedsmayvary.Ultimatelyyouarelookingfortheskinofeachvegetabletobeblackandblisteredallover.

PUREE THE SAUCE AND SERVE Place all the sauce ingredients, including thecharredvegetableswithskinintact,inablenderandpureeuntilsmooth.Transfertoasmallbowlandserve.

TOMATILLOSAUCEVARIATIONS

FRESHTOMATILLOSAUCEAsanalternative,youcanpreparea freshtomatillosaucebysimplyplacingalltheingredientsintheirrawstateinablenderandpureeinguntilsmooth.

CREAMYFRESHTOMATILLOSAUCEAddthefleshofaHassavocadototheblenderwhenpreparingthefreshtomatillosauce.Theavocadocreatesacreamyconsistencythatpairsfamouslywithcharredgrilledmeats.Thesaucewillkeepforseveraldaysinthe refrigerator, as the tomatillos’ high level of aciditywill prevent the avocadofromturningdarkbrown.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTS

Tomatillos Often mistaken for a green tomato, this fruit,whichisactuallyamemberof thegooseberryfamily,hasafresh, tart flavor.Tomatillosvary in sizebutaverageabout2½ inches in diameter. Their size has no relation to theirflavor,sopickthefreshest-lookingonesthatarefirmwithabrightgreencolorandnoblemishes.

TECHNIQUE

CleaningtomatillosMosttomatilloscomewithathinpaperhusk attached. It usually comes off easily, but in the eventyougetahuskthatisdifficulttoremove,soakthetomatilloincoldwaterforaminute,andthehuskshouldcomerightoff. Tomatillos tend to have a sticky coating; this is easilycleanedoffwitharinseofwater.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

This sauce can be made several days in advance with noeffectonitscolororflavor.

GrilledCornontheCobwithChipotleCrema&QuesoFresco

GRILLEDCORNONTHECOBwithChipotleCrema&QuesoFresco

{ELOTEALAPARILLA}

Just as it does at street fairs, grilled sweet corn will have yourguests lining up for their turn. Corn on the cob is steamed in itshusks on the grill and then charred to concentrate all its naturalsweetness. This is then balanced with a slathering of smoky firefrom chipotle crema and a dusting of saltiness from cheese. Pureperfection!Serves8

8earsofcorn,husksonbutsilksremoved

ChipotleCrema2cannedchipotlechilesinadobo,stemmed½cupcrema,homemadeorstorebought

1cupcrumbledquesofrescoorfetacheese2limes,cutintowedges

SOAK THE CORN Place the corn in a large stockpotor other container largeenoughtoholdalltheears,andfillitwithwater.Ifyoudonothaveasufficientlylargecontainer,useyourkitchensink.Allowthecorntosoakfor20minutes.Removefromthewater,shake,

andtightlysqueezethehusksagainstthekernelsofcorntogetridofanyexcesswater.

PREPARE THE CREMAMeanwhile, prepare the cremaby placing the chipotlesand the crema in a food processor and pureeing until well combined.Alternatively, using a knife, finely chop the chipotles and stir them in

withthecrema.Setaside.

GRILL THE CORN Heat your grill to high (550°F) and close the lid.Wait atleast15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Placethecornonthegrillrackandgrilltheearsfor5min;utes.Turnthecornoverandgrillforanother5minutes.Removefromthegrillandletrestfor5moreminutes.Inthemeantime,keepyourgrillonwiththelidclosed.

PULLBACKTHEHUSKSANDCHARTHECORNTakethegrilledearsofcornandpullbackthe husks, exposing the kernels. Do not remove the husks, though. Ifpossible,tiethehusksback(seeCookingNotes).Increase the grill temperature to high (550°F). Place a sheet ofaluminumfoilononesideof thehotgrill.Place thepulled-backhusksoverthefoil,allowingtheexposedkernelstositonthegrillgrates.(Thisisdonesothehusksdon’tburnbeforethecorncanchar.)Closethegrilllidandallowthekernels tocharforabout5minutesperside,oruntiltheybecomedarkandgoldenbrownonallsides.Removethecornfromthegrillandsetaside.

SERVE WITH THE GARNISHES You can prepare the corn for your guests byslatheringthecornwiththechipotlecrema,sprinklingalightcoatingofcheeseoverit,andfinishingwithasqueezeoflime,orsetthegarnishesoutandallowyourgueststoservethemselves.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTS

UsingcornwithouthusksYoucanstillmakethisrecipeifthe corn you buy comes already husked. Soak the corn inwaterasiscalledforintherecipe.Beforegrilling,wrapthecorn tightly in aluminum foil to act as a substitute for thehusks. Grill the corn as instructed in the recipe and,when

thetimecomestocharthecorn,simplyremoveanddiscardthefoil.Canned chipotles Chipotles are smoked jalapeños. Thesmokingprocessconcentratestheirflavorandmakesthemabithotterthanregularjalapeños.Youcancontroltheheatbykeepingorremovingtheseedsthatcausetheheat;toremovethem,slitopenthechilesandscrapeouttheseedswithyourfinger.For this recipe, you want canned chipotles packed inadobosauce—andremember,youwanttwochilesfromonecan,nottwocansofchiles!

TECHNIQUES

Removing silks from corn The silks are the thin stringsfoundinsidethehusks.Sincetheyareinedible,theyneedtobe removed. To do so, gently pull back the husks halfwaydowntheearofthecornandpulloutthesilks.Itisfineifafew are left behind; they will burn off when you char thekernels.Foldthehusksbackoverthecornandproceedwiththerecipe.TyingbackthecornhusksAfterthecornhasbeengrilledin thehusks, thehuskswillhavedriedout.Whenyoupullthe husks back to char the kernels, remove two pieces ofdriedhuskandwrapthemaroundthecornhusks,tyingthemintoaknot (youmayneed tobeabitdelicate soasnot tobreak the husks). This step is optional but will result in abeautifulpresentation.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thechipotlecremacanbemadeadayinadvanceandkeptrefrigerated. The corn can be prepared a few hours inadvanceuptothepointofcharring.Becausethecorntendstoshrivelupanddryout,itisbesttocharitshortlybeforeserving.

FreshRadish&CucumberSalad

FRESHRADISH&CUCUMBERSALAD

Fresh radishes and cucumbers are typically used as toppings ontacostoaddacrunchytexture,andasacoolreprievetoahotsalsa.Ihavealwaysmarveledathowsuchasmallgarnishcanhavesuchan impacton the final flavor and textureof adish.Butwhy limitthose crispy vegetables to a garnish? Here I take them one stepfarther and combine them for a crisp and refreshing salad.Serves10

2bunchesfreshradishes,trimmedandcutintothinwedges1tablespoonsugar1teaspoonsalt1Englishcucumber,slicedinhalflengthwisethencrosswiseinto¼-inchslices

3tablespoonslimejuice(from2to3limes)¼bunchcilantro(about12sprigs)

PREPARETHERADISHESPlacetheradishesinabowlandsprinklethesugarandsaltoverthem.Tosswell.Allowtheradishestositfor1hour.Draintheradishes in a colander and rinse with cold water. If time permits,refrigeratebeforeserving.

SEASONANDSERVETosstheradisheswiththecucumbersanddrizzlewiththelimejuice.Placethevegetablesonaservingdishandgarnishbytuckingthecilantrostemsunderoneside.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTS

CucumbersIlikeusingEnglishcucumbers—thelongeronesthatcomewrappedinplastic—forthisrecipesincetheskinis not waxed and is therefore edible (cucumbers lose theirmoisture easily and must either be waxed or wrapped inplastictoretaintheirwatercontent).

TECHNIQUE

Pickling: salt and sugar The point of sprinkling salt andsugar over the radishes is to season them as well as toconcentratetheirflavorbyextractingsomeoftheirmoisture.Becauseofthis,youwillfindtheradishessittinginapuddleofliquidbeforeyoudrainandrinsethem.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The recipe can bemade a few hours in advance and keptrefrigerated.Juststorethecilantroseparately,wrappedinadamppapertowelintherefrigerator,untilyouarereadytoserve.

BEER-STEWEDBEANSwithChiles

{FRIJOLESBORRACHOS}

WhilethisMexicanversionofporkandbeansseemsliketheperfectbarbecue side dish, it is also great served on its ownwith tortillachips and a dollop of crema. The heat in the chiles is a perfectcomplement to the meatiness of the beans, and the beer adds adeep, rich flavor to the broth. However you choose to serve thebeans,Iamsureyouwillfindthemdelicious!Serves8

1pound(about2½cups)driedpintobeans24ouncesbeer¼poundbacon(about6slices)1onion,chopped2clovesgarlic,minced2poblanochiles,stemmed,seeded(ifdesired),andchopped2jalapeñochiles,stemmed,seeded(ifdesired),andchopped3plumtomatoes,seededandchopped1teaspoonsalt½cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,chopped

SOAKTHEBEANSPickthroughthebeansforanysmallstones,thenrinsethem.Placethebeansinalargepotandcoverwithwaterbyaninch.Allowtositatroomtemperatureabout8hours,orovernight.

SIMMERTHEBEANSINBEERDrainthebeansandreturnthemtothepot.Addthebeer,alongwith5cupsofwater,andbringtoaboil.Lowertoasimmerandcook,uncovered,for1hour.

SAUTéTHEAROMATICINGREDIENTSPlacealargesautépanovermedium-highheatand add thebacon. Sauté thebaconuntil it renders all its fat and thebaconlosesitspinkcolorandbecomesgoldenbrown,about6minutes.Add the onion, garlic, poblano chiles, and jalapeños to the pan andsautéuntilthevegetablesbecomelimpandtranslucent,about5minutes.Add the tomatoes and salt and cook until the tomato starts to breakdown,about3minutes.

TESTANDSIMMERBEANSSkimoffanygrayfoamthathasrisentothesurfaceofthe beans. Before you continue with the recipe, the beans must betender. Test one bean by pinching it between your fingers. If it easilyyields to pressure, the beans are ready. If the beans are still tough,continue simmeringuntil they soften.Thiswill require some judgmentonyourpart;youwilldecidehowsoftyouwantthebeanstobe.Ifyoucontinuecooking,youdonotneedtoaddmoreliquid;juststirthebeansoften.Add the sautéed vegetable and bacon mixture to the beans andcontinue simmering for another hour to allow the flavors to blend.Control the liquid contentby allowing thebeans to simmeruncovered(forthickerbeans)orcovered(forsoupybeans).

GARNISH AND SERVE When the beans are done, taste for salt and adjust asnecessary.Stirinthecilantroandserve.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTS

BeerIuseabasicMexicanlagerforthisrecipe,butfeelfreetousethebeerofyourchoice.Jalapeños The heat in chiles is found in the seeds andinteriorveins.Youcancontrolhowspicythebeandishisbyaddingmore jalapeños (hotter) or removing the seeds andveinsoftheonesyouuse(milder).Salt It is important not to add salt to the beans until they

have softened. Adding salt too early in the process willincrease the time it takes for the beans to become tender,addingsubstantiallytothecookingtime.

TECHNIQUE

Beanquick-soakmethodIfyoudonothaveenoughtimetosoak your beans overnight, place the beans in a pot withenoughwatertocoverbyaninch,cover,andbringtoaboilfor2minutes.Remove thepot from theheat and let standfor 1 hour. Then proceed with step two of the recipe,simmeringthebeansinbeer.Seeding tomatoes To seed tomatoes, cut the tomato intoquarters lengthwise (from the stem end), then slice off theseedypulp,makingsure tocutoff thecore.Plumtomatoesarebestinthisrecipebecausetheycontainfewerseedsandlesspulpthantheroundvarieties.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Not only can this recipe be made a couple of days inadvance,itsflavorswillimprove.Thebeansalsofreezewellwhen stored in an airtight container. Just defrost and heatbeforeserving.

MEXICANCHOCOLATECUPCAKESwithCajetaButtercream

Mexican chocolate (dark chocolate flavored with cinnamon andvanilla)andcajeta(caramelmadefromgoat’smilk)aretwobakingingredientsthataredistinctlyMexican.Iwasinspiredbythesetwoflavorstocomeupwithadessertthatisnotonlyrichanddecadent,but also ridiculously simple toprepare, as all the cake ingredientsare added to a bowl at the same time and mixed.Makes24cupcakes

2½cupsall-purposeflour1¼cupsDutch-processcocoapowder2½cupssugar2teaspoonsbakingsoda1teaspoonbakingpowder1teaspoonsalt3eggs1¼cupsmilk½cupvegetableoil1tablespoonvanillaextract

CajetaButtercream2sticks(1cup)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1cupconfectioners’sugar½cupcajeta,dulcedeleche,orcaramelsauce

PREPARETHECAKEBATTERPreheatyourovento350°F.Linetwo12-cupcupcake

panswithpaperliners.Combine all the cake ingredients in a largebowl and, using a standmixerwith the paddle attachment or handheld electricmixer, beat onmediumspeed for2minutesuntil thebatter is smoothand shiny.Thebatterwillbeabitthick.

BAKETHECUPCAKESTransferthecakebattertoaliquidmeasuringcupforeasypouringandfillthecupcakelinersnomorethanhalfway.Bakefor20to25minutes,oruntilaninsertedskewerortoothpickcomesoutclean.Remove the cupcake pans from the oven, place on wire racks, andallowtocoolcompletelybeforefrosting.

PREPARETHECAJETABUTTERCREAMUsingahandheldelectricmixerorstandmixerwith the paddle attachment, beat the butter, sugar, and cajeta for 3minutesonmedium-highspeed,untilthefrostingissmoothandcreamy.Scrapethesidesandbottomofthebowlasneededtofullyincorporatethecajeta.

ASSEMBLEANDSERVERemovethecupcakesfromthepananduseaspatulatospread the buttercream over the tops of the cupcakes. For a moredecorative presentation, you can pipe the buttercream as explained intheCookingNotes.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Cajeta Cajeta (ca-HEH-ta) is a caramel sauce made fromgoat’smilk(oracombinationofgoat’smilkandcow’smilk)cooked slowly with vanilla and sugar until a sweet, thickgolden-brownsyrupisachieved.Whiletheflavorisabitdifferent,dulcedelecheorregularcaramel sauce can be substituted for cajeta in this recipe.Bothcajetaanddulcedelechecanbepurchasedatgourmetshops,Latingrocerystores,andsomesupermarkets.Dutch-processcocoapowderCocoapowderisavailablein

two forms: Dutch-process (alkalized unsweetened) andnaturalunsweetened.TheDutch-process formhasaneutralpH and mild flavor. Because pH will affect the leaveningactionofbakingpowder, it is important touse the specifictypeofcocoathatiscalledforinarecipe.

TECHNIQUE

Creatingapipingbag If youdonot have a pastry bag topipethebuttercreamwith,youcancreateonewithaheavy-duty resealable plastic bag. Simply fill the bag with thebuttercream (nomore than one-third to half full), pushingthe buttercream toward a bottom corner. When you areready to pipe the frosting, snip off the tip of the corner tocreate an opening. Carefully squeeze the buttercreamthroughtheopening.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thecupcakesandbuttercreamcanbemadeadayinadvanceand stored separately. The cupcakes should be looselycoveredwithplasticandleftatroomtemperature,whilethebuttercreamneedstobestoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator. Allow the buttercream to return to roomtemperature before beating again so that it is smooth forpiping.

YucatecanBarbecue

DrinkBeerCocktail/Michelada

StarterLime-MarinatedShrimp&CrabCocktail/MariscosenEscabeche

MainCoursesChile-RubbedTunaSteakwithAvocado&LimeAchiote-MarinatedChickenWrappedinBananaLeaves/PolloPibilYucatecanBarbecuePorkSpareribs/CostillitasPibil

Condiments&SidesMarinatedRedOnionsFieryTomatoSalsa/XniPecCrunchyJicama&LimeSalad

DessertGrilledPineappleSkewers&PineappleIce

TheYucatán isapartof southernMexico locatedona largepeninsulathat juts into the Caribbean Sea.Here, indigenousMayan customs arefusedwithSpanish influences.Geographically isolated from the rest ofMexico,theYucatánhasdevelopedacuisinethatishighlyinfluencedbyCaribbean and European cultures, and the area’s proximity to theCaribbeangives it a tropical feel.Key ingredientsofYucatecancuisineinclude tropical fruits and citrus like bitter orange and lime; honey;achiote seeds; chiles; banana leaves; tomatoes; fish and shellfish; andporkandturkey.

{MENUGAMEPLAN}

Onedayinadvance:Preparethepineappleice.Storage:freezerMarinatetheredonions.Storage:refrigerator

Thenightbefore:Marinatethechicken.Storage:refrigeratorMarinatetheporkribsandwraptheminbananaleavesandfoil.Storage:refrigeratorPreparetherubforthetuna.Storage:roomtemperature

Onthemorningof:PreparetheLime-MarinatedShrimp&CrabCocktail.Storage:refrigeratorPreparetheFieryTomatoSalsa.Storage:roomtemperaturePreparetheCrunchyJicama&LimeSalad.Storage:refrigerator

Twotothreehoursbefore:Wrapthechickeninbananaleaves.Storage:refrigeratorRoasttheribs.Cutandskewerthepineapple.Storage:roomtemperature

Inthehourbefore(setup):Setupthebarformicheladas.Setout:

MarinatedRedOnionsFieryTomatoSalsa

Asyoureventunfolds:Preparethemicheladas.ServetheLime-MarinatedShrimp&CrabCocktail.Grillthechicken.Grillandglazetheporkribs.Placetherubonthetunaandgrill.Cuttheavocadoandlimetoservewiththetuna.BringouttheCrunchyJicama&LimeSalad.Servethemaincoursesandsides.Grillthepineappleskewers.Bringoutthepineappleicepan.Servedessert.

BeerCocktail

BEERCOCKTAIL{MICHELADA}

Mexicanslovetheircerveza,orchela(slangforbeer).It’snowondertheywould take their passionone step further and create cervezaspreparadas,orbeercocktails.Thebasiccervezapreparadaiscalledachelada:beerplus ice, lime,andsalt.Thereare regionalvariationsintheingredients,butamichelada(whichisalsoconsideredagoodremedyforahangover)addsWorcestershiresauceandhotsaucetoachelada.Makes1cocktail

Ice12ouncespaleMexicanbeerDashofWorcestershiresauceHotsauce½limePinchofsalt

Fill a chilled pint glass with ice and pour in the beer. Add theWorcestershire sauce, a few dashes of hot sauce, and the juice of thelime.Finishitoffwithapinchofsaltandserve.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUES

SaltI’mnotsureifthiswastheoriginalpurposeforthesaltwhen the michelada was invented, but a dash of saltmaintainsthebeer’sfizz.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Amicheladaneedstobeservedrightaway.

LIME-MARINATEDSHRIMP&CRABCOCKTAIL

LIME-MARINATEDSHRIMP&CRABCOCKTAIL

{MARISCOSENESCABECHE}

Alsoknownasvuelvea lavida (which literally translatesas“comebackto life”), thismarisco isapopularspicytomato-basedseafoodcocktail served in Mexican beach towns. Commonly eaten themorningafteranightofrevelry,itisthoughttoberestorative.Thisrecipe borrows the spicy and tangy flavors of a bloodyMary andpairsthemwiththesweetmeatofshrimpandcrab.It’sagreatdishwithwhichtostart(orend)anyparty.Serves10

1poundlargeshrimp,peeled,deveined,andbutterflied1poundlumpcrabmeat½redonion,cutinhalfandslicedverythinly4plumtomatoes,seededandchopped1cucumber,peeled,seeded,andchopped2jalapeñochiles,stemmed,seeded(ifdesired),andfinelychopped2cupslightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,chopped1cuplimejuice(fromabout12limes)½cupredwinevinegar1cupketchup1tablespoonsaltSprigsofcilantro,forgarnishTortillachips,forserving

BLANCHTHESHRIMPBringapotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Meanwhile,prepareanicebathbyfillingalargebowlwithiceandcoldwater.Addtheshrimptotheboilingwaterandallowtocookfor1minute.

Removetheshrimpfromthepotwithaslottedspoonandimmediatelyplungeintotheicebath.Allowtheshrimptocoolthoroughlyintheicewater, then drain and place on paper towels to absorb some of thewater.Transfertheshrimptoabowl.

PREPARETHECRABDrainthecrabofliquidandpickthroughittoremoveanycartilage.Lightlybreakup someof the larger lumpsof crab, leavingafewchunksintact.Mixthecrabwiththeshrimp.

MARINATE THE INGREDIENTSAddtheredonion,tomatoes,cucumber, jalapeños,andhalfthecilantrototheshellfishandmixuntilwellincorporated.Inasmallbowl,combinethelimejuice,vinegar,ketchup,andsaltandstiruntilwellblended.Addthissaucetotheshellfishandvegetablesandgentlytossuntilwellcombined.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1to2hours.

GARNISHANDSERVETosstheremainingcilantrointothesaladandplaceonaservingdish.Garnishwithsprigsofcilantroandservewithtortillachips.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUES

Whybutterfly the shrimp?While you can get awaywithskipping this step, I like to slice the shrimp in halflengthwise(butterflythem)beforeplungingtheminboilingwater for two reasons. Most importantly, butterflying theshrimpmakes themcookmorequicklyandevenly, therebypreventing them from becoming tough and rubbery fromovercooking. It also allows the shrimp to compress into anattractivespiralshapewhenblanched.Seeding tomatoes and cucumbers To seed tomatoes, cutthe tomato into quarters lengthwise (from the stem end),thensliceofftheseedypulp,makingsuretocutoffthecore.Plum tomatoes arebest in this recipebecause they contain

fewerseedsandlesspulpthantheroundvarieties.Toseedacucumber, slice it inhalf lengthwiseanduseasmallspoontoscoopandscrapeoutalltheseedsfoundinitscenter.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

This recipe can be made in its entirety up to 8 hours inadvancewithlittleeffectonitsquality.Youcanpreparetherecipeaday inadvanceand justholdoffon tossing in thecucumbers,tomatoes,andcilantrountilanhourorsobeforeservingsotheymaintaintheirfresh,crunchytextures.

CHILE-RUBBEDTUNASTEAKwithAvocado&Lime

Ifyouare lookingforaspicerubwithaboldpunchof flavorthatgoeswellwithfishandshellfish,you’vefoundit.Becausethesmokyheatofchipotlepowdertakescenterstage,youwanttomakesuretheproteinyouareusingismeatyenoughtostanduptotheheat.Ifind tuna is theperfectmatch.Tohelp tame theheatandbalancetheflavorsofthisdish,Iliketosetupalargeplatterwithavocadoslices, lime wedges, and cilantro sprigs and allow my guests tocreatetheirperfectplate.Serves8

ChileRub¾cupchipotlechilepowder¼cupanchochilepowder4teaspoonsgroundcumin2tablespoonsplus2teaspoonsdriedoregano4teaspoonssalt½teaspooncayennepepper4poundstuna,portionedinto8(1-inch-thick)steaks3Hassavocados,slicedandsprinkledwithlimejuice5limes,quarteredCilantrosprigs,forgarnish

PREPARE THE RUB Placeall the rub ingredients in abowlandmixwell. Setaside.

HEATTHEGRILLANDPREPARETHETUNAHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.

Place all of the rubona largeplateor cuttingboard.Workingwithone tuna steak at a time, gently press the steak onto the rub mix,creatingaspicecrustonallsidesofthefish.Setasideandrepeatwiththerestofthesteaks.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwitha long pair of tongs. Place the tuna steaks on the grill and cook untilthey reach the desired doneness: on average, a 1-inch steak will takeabout2minutespersidetobecookedrare,andabout3minutespersideformedium-rare.Keepinmindyouaregrillingonhighheatandthefishwillcookquickly.

SERVEPlacethetunaonalargeplatterandgarnishwithslicesofavocado,wedgesoflime,andsprigsofcilantro.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUES

Slicing an avocado Start by slicing the avocado in halflengthwisewitha largeknifeand,onceyouhit theseed inthe center, move your knife along its perimeter. Open theavocadobygentlytwistingandpullingoneachhalf.Removetheseedbytappingitwiththesharpedgeofyourknife, causing the knife to become wedged into the seed.Twisttheknifeabittodislodgetheseedfromtheflesh.Finally, slice the avocadoby taking the tip of your knifeanddrawingstraightlinesthroughthefleshofeachavocadohalf,makingsurethetipoftheknifereachestheskinoftheavocado. The closer the lines, the thinner the slices. Use aspoontoscoopouttheslicedavocado.WhentoapplythespicerubIt’sbesttoapplythespicerubtothefishabout5minutesbeforeyou’rereadytogrill.Thesaltintherubmaydryoutthefishifyouleaveitonlonger.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The rub can be prepared in advance and will keep in anairtightcontainerformonths.

Achiote-MarinatedChicken

ACHIOTE-MARINATEDCHICKENWrappedinBananaLeaves

{POLLOPIBIL}

This recipe is similar inprinciple to theYucatecanpork spareribs.Anachiotemarinade isusedto flavorandseasonthechicken,andbanana leaves are wrapped around the meat to infuse it withsmokiness. Traditionally, the chickenwould be placed in an earthoven (pibe), but this version only requires you to place it in acoveredgrill.I’veserveditintactinthebananaleaf(whichusuallydraws applause), but I’ve also chopped the chicken up with thetomatoandonionforadelicioustacofilling.Howeveryouchoosetoserveit,Iguaranteeyouwilllovehowstraightforwardthisbeautifulandmouthwateringdishistomake.Serves8

AchioteMarinade¼cupannattoseeds1headgarlic,clovesseparatedandpeeled2tablespoonssalt2tablespoonsgroundcumin¼cupdriedoregano1tablespoonblackpepper¾cupapplecidervinegar¾cuporangejuice8skinless,bonelesschickenbreasts(about3poundstotal)3largebananaleaves4plumtomatoes,coredandsliced1redonion,sliced

PREPARETHEMARINADEPlacetheannattoseedsinablenderandturnonhighuntil the seeds are ground. It’s all right if the powder is not evenlyground—justtrytogetitasfineasyoucan.Place the remaining marinade ingredients in the blender and pureeuntil all the ingredients are well blended into a paste. Remove themarinadefromtheblenderjarandsetaside.Place the chicken breasts in a large resealable plastic bag (youmayneed to use two) and pour in the marinade. Make sure to coat thechickenwellwiththemarinade.Pressoutasmuchairaspossiblefromthebag,sealit,andrefrigerateforatleast45minutes,orovernight.

PREPARE THE BANANA LEAF PACKETS Use kitchen scissors to cut eight pieces ofbananaleaves,eachapproximately12inchesby12inches.Reserveanyextrascrapsofleavestomaketies.Remove the marinated chicken from the refrigerator. Lay a bananaleafsquareinfrontofyou,makingsuretheshinysideisfacingup.Placethechickenbreast,withmarinadestillclingingtoit,inthecenteroftheleafandtopitwith3or4slicesoftomatoandseveralonionslices.Foldonesideof the leafover thechicken.Overlap theopposite sideover the leaf. Fold the two ends in toward the center and place thepackage on a baking sheet seam side down.Tear a long strip fromanextrapieceofbananaleafandtieitaroundthechicken-stuffedpackagetosecureit.Repeatwiththeremainingchicken.

GRILL THE PACKETSHeatyourgrill tohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Placethebananaleafpacketsonthegrill,closethelid,andcookfor25 minutes. The leaves will turn dark brown and have a burntappearance.Theywillalsobegintogiveoffasmokyscent.

SERVE Pile the banana leaf packets on a serving platter and allow yourgueststoservethemselvesandunwraptheirpackages.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Banana leavesWhile these long,wide, sturdy leaves comefromthebananatree,theydonotproduceabananascentorflavor. Instead, they infuse foods with an unexpected yetwonderfulearthyandsmokyflavor.Theyaremostcommonlyfoundfrozen.Touse, just thawthem at room temperature and unfold. Whether you areusing fresh or frozen leaves, start by cutting off the spinethatrunsthrougheachleaf,becauseitwillpreventyoufromfolding the leaf properly. Kitchen scissors work best fortrimmingtheleaves.The frozen packs come with a good number of bananaleaves.Afteryoudefrostthepackageandusetheleavesthatyou need, repack the leaves airtight in plastic wrap andreturn to the freezer. You can defrost and refreeze theseheartyleavesasoftenasyouneedtowithoutaffectingtheirflavorortexture.While you will sacrifice a bit of flavor, you cansuccessfullysubstitutealuminumfoilforthebananaleaves.AnnattoseedsSeetheCookingNotesinYucatecanBarbecuePorkSpareribs.

TECHNIQUE

Grilling packets These packets create an environmentwherethechickenissteamed.After25minutes,thechickenwillbecookedthroughandinfusedwiththesmokyscentofthe banana leaves and the deep red color of the annattoseeds,butitwillnothavecharredfleshorgrillmarks.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The chicken can be left marinating overnight. The packetscan be assembled and left in the refrigerator for severalhoursbeforegrilling.Makesuretobringthepacketstoroomtemperaturebeforegrilling.

YUCATECANBARBECUEPORKSPARERIBS

{COSTILLITASPIBIL}

TheYucatán is known for barbecues that use earth ovens to cookthemeat. Pits (calledpibes) are dug in the ground and linedwithrocksandcoal.Achiote-marinatedmeatisthenwrappedinfragrantbananaleaves,placedinthepit,andcoveredwithafibrousmaterialsimilar to burlap before the displaced dirt is used to cover the“oven.”TosaveyoufromhavingtodigaditchIcreatedthisrecipe,whichstillinfusesthemeatwiththeflavorsofthepepperyandtartachiotemarinadeandsmokybanana leaves,while relyingonyourgrilltodothecooking.Serves8

6pounds(3or4racks)porkspareribs4largebananaleaves,trimmedAchioteMarinade

Glaze½cuphoney⅓cupapplecidervinegar½teaspooncayennepepper

PREPAREANDMARINATETHERIBSMakesurethebottom(bonyside)oftheribsislightly scored with small gashes. If it’s not, cut shallow 1-inch-longgashes all along the bottoms of the racks. This helps the ribs cookevenly.Cutapieceofaluminumfoilthatisabout6incheslongerthanarack

of ribsandplace itonyourwork surface.Trimapieceofbanana leafapproximatelythesamelengthasthefoil(don’tworryaboutthewidth;justmakesurethelengthisaboutthesame),andplaceitdirectlyoverthe aluminum foil. Place the ribs, bony side up, on the center of the

banana leaves and slather the meat with the marinade. Turn the ribsoverandcoatwellwithmoremarinade.Closethepacketbyfoldingthesidesofthebananaleafovertheribsandthenwrappingthefoilaroundtheleaf,makingsuretosealitwell.Repeatthesameprocedurewiththeremainingracks.Allowtomarinate intherefrigerator forat least1hour,orupto24hours.

ROASTTHERIBSPreheattheovento275°F.Removetheribpacketsfromtherefrigerator.Placethepacketsonabakingsheetandroastintheovenfor2hours.Removethetrayfromtheovenandallowtheribstorestforatleast10minutessotheyhaveachancetocool.

GLAZETHERIBSHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15 minutes before lowering the heat to medium-high (450°F) andcontinuing.In a small mixing bowl, combine the honey, vinegar, and cayennepepperuntilwellblended.Setaside.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwitha long pair of tongs. Carefully open the foil and banana leaf packets,exposingthetopsoftheribracks.Brushtheribswithglazeandtransferto thegrill, glazed sidedown. Someof the ribsmaybe so tender thatthey fall apart. If that happens, don’t worry about it; simply continuewith the recipe. Brush the bony side of the ribs (this side should befacingup)withmoreglaze.Allowtheglazetocaramelizeforabout4to5minutesbeforeturningtheracksoverandcookingforanother4minutes.Removetheribsfromthe grill and allow to rest for 5minutes before slicing into individualribs.Ifyouhaveanyextraglaze,dabsomeontheribsbeforeserving.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Annatto seeds Also known as achiote seeds, these are the

seedsoftheachiotetree,andtheyimpartamusky,pepperyflavorinadditiontoadeepredcolor.Grindthesesmall,hardseedsinaspicegrinderorblender.Whilegroundversionsexist, the flavor isnot the sameandtheyshouldonlybeusedasalastresort.Youmayalsofindachiote paste,which is ground annattomixedwith vinegarandsomeotherseasonings.Youcanusethisasastarterforthemarinade—justchecktheingredientlabelandadjusttherecipeproportions accordingly. I start by checkingwhetheroreganoandcuminarelistedinthelabel;addtheamountintherecipe if theyaremissing.Thenextstepwill takesomejudgment fromyou. If you feel the paste is too tart, add afewtablespoonsoforange juice. If it’s toosweet,addsomeapplecidervinegar.Banana leaves Prepare the leaves according to thesedirections.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Themajorityofthisrecipecanbemadewellinadvance.Themarinade and glaze can be stored in the refrigerator inairtight containers for up to a week. The ribs can bemarinated, wrapped in the banana leaf–foil packets, andrefrigeratedovernight.The ribs can also be roasted 3 to 4 hours in advance,leavingonlytheglazingtobedonebeforeserving.

MARINATEDREDONIONS

Pickled onions are a popular condiment throughout the Yucatán,where they are used as a topping for all sorts of grilled meats,seafood, and vegetables. This recipe, which marinates the onionsinsteadofpickling them,delivers the samepiquant resultwith farless fuss. And as soon as you discover how deliciously tangy andridiculously easy these onions are tomake, youwill find yourselfkeeping a container of them in your refrigerator to add to yoursalads, sandwiches, and grilled meats. Don’t be alarmed by howmuchvinegaryouwillbeusing;youcanreusethevinegarforothercookingneedsafteryouhaveeaten(devoured!)theonions.Makesabout2cups

1redonion,thinlysliced2to3cupsredwinevinegar

MARINATE THE ONION Place the onion slices in a small bowl or resealableplasticbagandpourinenoughredwinevinegartocompletelysubmergethem.Ifyou’reusingaplasticbag,pressoutasmuchairaspossibleandsealthebag.Ifyou’reusingabowl,placeapieceofplasticwrapdirectlyon the surface of the onions and vinegar to help keep the onionssubmerged.Settheonionsasideforatleast20minutesoruptoseveraldaysinthe

refrigerator.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

SelectingtheonionsandvinegarIpreferusingaredonionforboth its sweet flavorandredcolor,andI likepairing it

with red wine vinegar for the punch of color it creates.However,feelfreetousewhateveronionyoupreferorhaveavailable and,with the exception of balsamic vinegar, youcanusethevinegarofyourchoice.

TECHNIQUE

Slicinganonion Inordertogetthin,evenlyslicedonions,it’sbesttoslicetheonionfromroottostem.Simplycuttheonioninhalfthroughitsrootsandpeeloffitsskin.Trimofftherootsandthestemend,placeoneofthecutsidesinfrontofyou,andslicetheonionlengthwise(youwillbegoinginthesamedirectionasthenaturalridgesfoundontheonion).

ADVANCEPREPARATION

This recipe can be done well in advance—it will keeprefrigeratedfor1week.

FIERYTOMATOSALSA{XNIPEC}

This is not your everyday tomato salsa—it is something far moreserious.Xnipec(SHNEE-pek),Mayanfor“dog’snose,”getsitsnamefromhow itmakesyournose run.The tomatoandcilantro takeaback seat to the very hot habanero and jalapeño chiles, both ofwhicharefinelymincedwithseedsandveinsintact,makingforanincrediblyhotandtangysaucethatgoesperfectlywithalltypesofgrilledmeats.Ifyoulikeithot…knockyourselfout!Makesabout1½cups

2jalapeñochiles,stemmedandminced3habanerochiles,stemmedandminced2plumtomatoes,coredandfinelychopped2greenonions,rootsanddarkgreentopstrimmed,finelychopped3tablespoonslimejuice(from2or3limes)½cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,chopped¼teaspoonsalt,plusmoretotaste

PREPARETHESALSAPlacealltheingredientsinabowlandtosswell.Tasteforseasoningandaddmoresaltasneeded.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Habanero chile One of the hottest chiles used in thekitchen, the habanero is believed to have originatedsomewhereontheYucatánPeninsula.ItsnamereferstotheCuban capital ofHavana (spelledHabana in Spanish), as itwastradedthere.

Habaneros are short (about 1½ inches long) and round,andaretypicallyredororangeincolor.Habaneros’thinskinand flesh is very similar to those of Scotch bonnet chiles,whichcanbesubstitutedinthisrecipe.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thesalsacanbeprepared severalhoursbefore servingandleftintherefrigeratororatroomtemperature.

CRUNCHYJICAMA&LIMESALAD

CrunchyandtangywithahintofsweetnessishowIwoulddescribethissalad.BecauseIalwayslovetohavesomethingcrunchyonmyplate, this has become a favorite of mine when I’m entertainingoutdoors.Ialsolovethatjicama’scream-coloredfleshwillnotturna dull color or lose its crispness even after sitting out for a fewhours.Serves10

2½poundsjicama,peeledandcubed¼cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,chopped,plusextrasprigsforgarnish½teaspoonsalt

Zestof1lime3tablespoonslimejuice(from2or3limes)

MARINATE THE JICAMAPlaceall theingredientsexceptthecilantrosprigs inabowl and toss well. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes to chillthrough.

GARNISH AND SERVETransfer the jicamatoa servingdishanddrizzleall theremainingmarinatingliquidoverit.Garnishwithsprigsofcilantro.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Jicama A starchy root vegetable from a vine of the samename, jicama isverypopular inMexicoandcanbecookedoreatenraw.Ithasaverythin, inedibleskinandacream-colored flesh whose appearance and texture are similar tothoseofapplesorpears,but itwillnot turnbrownafter ithasbeencut.Jicamahasasweetflavorthatisenhancedbya

sprinklingoflimejuiceorotheracid.

TECHNIQUE

Peeling and cutting jicama After cutting off the two flatendsof the jicama,youmaynotice that the thin skinpeelsrightoff.However, I liketocutoff theskinwithaknife tomakesureitallcomesoff.Afterthat,youcancutthejicamaasyouwouldapotato.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

This recipewill benefit fromadvancepreparation, to allowthelimejuicetomarinatethejicama.Itcanbemadeseveralhoursinadvance—eventhenightbefore—withoutimpacttothe vegetable’s texture or flavor. Just keep it refrigerateduntilreadytoserve.

GRILLEDPINEAPPLESKEWERS&PINEAPPLEICE

Pineapple is very popular in the coastal beach towns of Mexico,especiallythoseoftheYucatán.Thestreetvendorswhosellskewersofgrilledmeatandbagsofchilledpineappleinspiredthisrefreshingdessert. After discovering how delicious grilled fruit is, I begangrillingpineappleskewers toservewiththepineapple ice,andthecombination is now one of my favorite summertime desserts.Serves8to10

½cupsugar2cupswater2pineapples,coredandchopped(about6cups)2limes,quartered

PREPARE A SIMPLE SYRUP Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan overmedium heat. Stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Removefromtheheatandallowthesyruptocool.

PUREETHEPINEAPPLEANDFREEZEPureehalfthepineapplechunks(about3cups)inablenderuntilsmooth.Pourthesimplesyrupandpineapplepureeina9by13-inchnonreactivebakingpanandstirwell.Coverthepanwithplasticwrapandplaceinthefreezer.Afteronehour,stirthemixturewellwithafork.Returntothefreezer

andallowthemixturetofreezeforatleast6hoursorovernight.

SKEWERANDGRILLTHEPINEAPPLEHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Wait at least 15 minutes before lowering the heat to medium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwith

a longpairof tongs.Skewer2or3of theremainingpineapplechunksonto eachof 8 to10 skewers, placingpeices of the same sizeon eachskewer.Grill each skewer for2minutesper side,oruntilyouseegrillmarksdevelop.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

PREPARETHEPINEAPPLEICEANDSERVERemovethepanfromthefreezerandallowit to sitat roomtemperature forabout5minutes.Usinga fork, scrapethe fruit ice into individual serving cups and garnish by spearing askewerintoitandaddingalimewedge.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Simple syrup Simple syrup is sugar that is dissolved inwater, but it has to be heated enough so that the sugaractuallydissolves.Thiswillpreventtheicefromtakingonagrittytexture.LimeThelimeisusedasbothagarnishandaseasoning.Theacidinthelimebrightensuptheflavorofthepineappleandbalancesitssweetness.

TECHNIQUE

Soakingwoodenskewers

ADVANCEPREPARATION

This is definitely a recipe to start ahead of time. Thepineappleicecanbemadeseveraldaysinadvance.Youcaneven scrape the ice early, placing it in an airtight plasticcontainerinthefreezer;letitsoftenforafewminutesbeforeserving.(Youmayhavetoscrapeitabitagain.)Inordertoprevent freezer burn, I wrap the container in plastic wrapbeforeplacingitinthefreezer.Thegrilledpineapplecansitatroomtemperatureforafewhours.

NicaraguanRanchRoast

DrinkRum&GuavaCooler

StarterGrilledRipePlantainswithCrema/MadurosalaParillaconCrema

MainCoursesNicaraguanGrilledSkirtSteak/ChurrascoNicaragüenseCoffee-RubbedCowboyRib-Eyes

Condiments&SidesChunkyFreshTomatoSauce/PicodeGalloRiceCookedinRedBeans/GalloPintoMixedGreenSalad

DessertThreeMilksCake/TresLeches

Nicaraguancuisinereflectsacombinationofinfluences,primarilythoseof pre-Colombian Indians and Spanish colonizers. Farming is a bigindustry in Nicaragua, with coffee, banana, and tobacco plantationsscattered throughout the country. Coffee exports bring in the mostrevenue, but Nicaragua is also the largest exporter of beef in CentralAmerica.Beefandcoffeeareveryimportantingredientsinthenationalcuisine,asarerice,beans,plantains,garlic,parsley,andtomatoes.

{MENUGAMEPLAN}

Onedayinadvance:BaketheyellowcakefortheTresLeches.Coverwithplasticwrap.Storage:roomtemperature

Thenightbefore:Preparethethreemilksmixtureandsoakthecake.Storage:refrigeratorPreparethecoffeerub.Storage:freezerPreparetheChimichurri.Storage:refrigerator

Onthemorningof:Trimandmarinatetheskirtsteak.Storage:refrigeratorPreparetheGalloPinto.Storage:roomtemperatureinacoveredpotPreparethemeringueandtopthecake.Storage:refrigeratorPreparetheglazefortheplantains.Storage:roomtemperature;willhardenandneedreheating

Twotothreehoursbefore:Preparethesaladgreensandcoverthemwithadamptowel.Storage:refrigeratorPreparethesaladdressing.Storage:roomtemperature(Optional)Bruléethemeringueonthecake.PreparethePicodeGallo,butdon’taddsaltyet.Storage:roomtemperature

Inthehourbefore(setup):Setupthebeveragebarwiththeingredientsfortherumcoolers.Bringthemeatstoroomtemperature.Setout:Chimichurritobeusedassauce(1½cups)PicodeGallo

Asyoureventunfolds:PreparetheRum&GuavaCoolers.Grilltheplantains.SeasonthePicodeGallowithsaltandsetout.Placetherubontherib-eyes.Grilltheskirtsteak.Grilltherib-eyes.BringouttheGalloPinto.Dressthesalad.Servethemaincoursesandsides.Servedessert.

RUM&GUAVACOOLER

Ifyouarelookingforacoolandrefreshingcocktail,you’vefoundit.Made with only four ingredients, this is like a simple yetsophisticated Rum Runner. It’s the cocktail I go for on a breezysummerdaywhenthesunissetting.Makes1cocktail

Ice2ouncesguavajuice2ounceslightrum1ouncefreshlimejuiceSparklingwaterorclubsoda1limewedge

Fillatallglasswithiceandsetaside.Placeahandfuloficeinacocktailshaker and add the guava juice, rum, and lime juice and shakevigorouslyfor10to15seconds.Strainthecocktailintotheglassoficeand topwith sparklingwaterorclub soda.Garnishwitha limewedgeandserve.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTSGuava juice Guava is very common in the Caribbean and Central America.Because the fruit is high in pectin, it is often used for jellies and preserves.However,itsjuice,whichissweetyettart,isalsoverypopular.Ifyoucannotfindguavajuice,substitutecranberryjuice.

GRILLEDRIPEPLANTAINSwithCrema

{MADUROSALAPARRILLACONCREMA}

If you are not accustomed to eating something sweet with yourgrilled beef, you are in for a pleasant surprise. These grilledplantains become caramelized with the brown-sugar-and-butterglaze that is slathered over them as they cook, making them aperfectcomplementtochar-grilledbeef.Infact,they’resolusciouslysweet, I’m never sure whether to serve them as a side dish or adessert!Serves8

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter¾cuppackedbrownsugar2tablespoonsapplecidervinegarorsherryvinegar4veryripe(black)plantains1½cupscrema,homemadeorstorebought

PREPARETHEBUTTERGLAZEPlacethebutterandsugarinasmallsaucepanovermediumheatandcookforabout2minutes,untilthebutterhasmeltedcompletely.Addthevinegarandstirwell.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

PREPARE AND GRILL THE PLANTAINSHeatyourgrill tohigh (550°F)andclose thelid.Wait at least15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Slice the unpeeled plantains in half lengthwise and place cut side

down on the grill. Close the lid and cook for 15 minutes. Turn theplantainsoverandbastethecutsideswiththebutterglaze.Closethelidandcontinuecookingforanother15minutes.Brushabitmoreglazeontheplantainsbeforeremovingthemfromthegrill.

SERVEServetheplantainsintheirskinswiththecremainabowlontheside.Whenreadytoeat,placeadollopofcremaovereachplantainhalf.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTSPlantainsPlantainsarelargestarchybananasandmustbecookedbeforeeating.Youwillfindtheminvariousstagesofripeness.Forthisrecipeandforallrecipesaskingyoutouseripeplantains,youwantthefruit’sskintobecompletelyblackandlooklikeitisrotting(it’snot!).Surprisingly,despiteitsoutwardappearance,thefleshwillbesturdy.CremaCremaisathinsourcreamservedthroughoutCentralAmericaandMexico.Itisascommonlyusedonsweetasonsavoryitems.Ifyoucannotfindit,youcanmakeyourownorsubstitutecrèmefraîche;don’tsubstituteregularsourcream.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Youcanpreparethebutterglazeafewhoursinadvance.However,itwillthickenatroomtemperature,requiringyoutoreheatit.

NicaraguanGrilledSkirtSteak

NICARAGUANGRILLEDSKIRTSTEAK

{CHURRASCONICARAGÜENSE}

ChurrascoisatermusedthroughoutLatinAmericatorefertoathinpiece of grilled meat. In Nicaragua, churrasco is made from beeftenderloin that is sliced lengthwise to produce long, thin steaks,whicharethenmarinatedinchimichurri(freshparsleysauce).Someskip the butchering step and use skirt steak instead. This is mypreference,sinceskirtsteakisalreadythinandhasadeliciousbeefyflavor that pairs incredibly well with the garlicky chimichurri—someofwhichisusedtomarinatethesteakwhilesomeisreservedto use as a sauce for the cooked steak. The oil-based chimichurrialso helps to produce the desirable charred crust on the steak.However, flare-ups can quickly turn it into singed beef, so payattentionatthegrill!Serves8

3poundsskirtsteak,trimmedofextrafat3½cupsChimichurri

MARINATE THE STEAK If desired, cut the large skirt steak into smaller steaks.Placethesteakinaresealableplasticbagordeepbowlandpour2cupsofthechimichurrioverit,makingsuretocoatallsurfacesofthemeat.Ifusingaplasticbag,pressoutasmuchairaspossiblebeforesealingthebag.Ifusingabowl,placeapieceofplasticwrapdirectlyonthesurfaceofthemeatandmarinade,creatinganairtightcover.Allowthemeattomarinateforatleast1hour.

GRILLTHESTEAKPreheatthegrilltoitshighesttemperature,closethelid,andwait15minutes.Oil thegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Remove the steaks from the marinade, letting the excess marinade

dripoff,andplaceonthegrill.Lowertheheattomedium-high,closethelid,andcookfor4minutes.Ifyoutendtogetflare-upsonyourgrill,youmaywanttoleavethelidopen;thiswillresultinalongercookingtime.Turnthesteaksoverandcookforanother4minutestoreachaninternaltemperature of 125° to 130°F formedium-rare, or until it reaches thedesireddoneness.

SERVE Place the remaining 1½ cups of chimichurri in a small bowl andservewiththegrilledskirtsteak.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUEBecausethisisanoil-basedmarinade,flare-upsmayoccur.Reviewthesectionondealingwithflare-ups.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The chimichurri can bemade a day in advance andwill keep, refrigerated, foraboutaweek.Thesteakscanbeleftmarinatingforseveralhoursbeforegrilling.

Coffee-RubbedCowboyRib-Eyes

COFFEE-RUBBEDCOWBOYRIB-EYES

Manypeoplearesurprisedwhentheyhearthatthefirstingredientin this rub is instant espresso powder. While it may seemunorthodox,thecoffeeconveysadeep,richflavorthataccentuatesthebeef’smeatyessence.Therestoftherubingredientsaretheretoseason the beef, not flavor it: the combination results in anincrediblytastysteak.Serves8

CoffeeRub6tablespoonsinstantespressopowder2tablespoonsSpanishpaprika1tablespoonkoshersalt2teaspoonsblackpepper¼cuppackedbrownsugar2teaspoonsgarlicpowder2teaspoonsgroundcumin

8(1-pound)bone-inrib-eyesteaksVegetableoil

PREPARETHERUBANDPUTITONTHEMEATPlacealltherubingredientsinabowlandstiruntilwellcombined.Sprinkleabout¼cupofthespiceblendontoyourcuttingboardand

put the steak on it, pressing down. Lift the steak and press down onareas to which the rub has not yet adhered. Turn the steak over andpressitdowntocompletelycoattheotherside.Whenyouaredone,youshould not be able to see anymeat through the spices. Set aside andrepeatwiththeremainingsteaks,addingmorespicerubtotheboardasnecessary.

Allowthesteakstorestforabout10minutesbeforegrilling.

GRILLTHEMEATHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwitha long pair of tongs. Make sure to have an instant-read thermometernearbytochecktheinternaltemperatureofyourmeat.Placeyoursteaksonthegrill,makingsurenottocrowdthegrill(it’sbesttoflipthesteaksoverontoacleanareaofthegrate).Closethelid,decreasetheheattomedium-high,andgrillthesteaksfor5minutesperside,toaninternaltemperatureof125to130°Fformediumrare.

SERVERemove thesteaks fromthegrillwhen theyare10degreesunderyour desired temperature. Allow them to rest for 5 minutes beforeservingorslicing.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTSCowboy rib-eye Bone-in rib-eye steak is also called cowboy rib-eye. Rib-eye isknownforitsmarblingandjuiciness.Ithinkitgoesreallywellwiththisrub,butIhavealsousedtherubonsirloinandskirtsteakwithequalsuccess—souseyourfavoritecutofmeat.Instant espresso powder Instant espresso powder is brewed espresso that hasbeen dehydrated. As a result, it will quickly give off its flavor. Regular groundespressobeanswillnotprovidemuchflavorandshouldnotbesubstituted.Asanalternative,useinstantcoffee.PaprikaPaprikaisaspicemadefromgrounddriedredbellpeppers.Dependingonthevarietyofthepepper,theflavorofthespicecanrangefromhotandspicytosweet or smoky. Paprika is produced in a few countries, including Spain andHungry;althoughSpainwasthefirstcountrytoproduceit,Hungarianpaprikaisconsidered bymany to be superior. I like using amild Spanish paprika for thisrecipe,butfeelfreetousetheoneyouprefer.

TECHNIQUE

StoringextrarubBecausethisrubcontainsbrownsugar,takealittleextracarewhenstoring—itneedstobekeptinthefreezersothatthesugardoesnotdryoutandbecomeclumpy.Don’tbesurprisedifthefrozenspicesharden;theyjustneedafewminutestodefrost.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The rub can be made several days in advance. Refer to Technique, above, forproperstoringinstructions.

CHUNKYFRESHTOMATOSAUCE{PICODEGALLO}

This sauce is very common throughout Central America. Pico degallo,whichliterallytranslatesto“rooster’sbeak,”isnamedforthehaphazardchoppingofallofthesauce’singredients—asifaroosterdid it with its beak. Unlike its Mexican cousin, the Nicaraguanversiondoesnotcontainhotchile.It’stypicallyusedtoaccompanygrilledmeatsandchicken.Serves8

2largetomatoes,chopped¼cupfinelychoppedredonion½cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,finelychopped

1lime¼teaspoonsalt

COMBINE ALL INGREDIENTS AND SERVEPlaceall the ingredients inabowlandmixuntilwellcombined.Serve.

COOKINGNOTES

ADVANCEPREPARATIONYoucanpreparethesauceafewhoursinadvancesolongasyoudonotaddthesaltuntilyouarereadytoserve.Thesaltwillcausethevegetablestowiltandturnsoggy.Keepthesaltlesssauceintherefrigerator.

RICECOOKEDINREDBEANS{GALLOPINTO}

Considered the national dish of Nicaragua, gallo pinto literallytranslatesas“spottedrooster,”areferencetothedish’sappearance.The meaty red beans and smoky bacon flavor make this a verysatisfying and comforting dish that goes well with almosteverything.Serves8to10

¼pound(about6slices)bacon,chopped2tablespoonsoliveoil1onion,finelychopped(about1cup)1greenpepper,stemmed,seeded,andfinelydiced(about¾cup)2clovesgarlic,minced2tablespoonstomatopaste2teaspoonssalt1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundoregano2cupslong-grainwhiterice2(15½-ounce)cansredkidneybeans,notdrained1¾cupswater

RENDERTHEBACONFATPlacethebaconandoliveoil inalargepotandsetitovermedium-highheat.Sautéthebaconuntilitrendersitsfatandturnsa golden brown color, about 6 minutes. Move the bacon around topreventitfromstickingtothebottomofthepot.

SAUTÉ THE VEGETABLES AND RICEAddtheonion,greenpepper,andgarlic to thebaconandsautéuntil thevegetablesare limpand translucent,about5minutes.Add the tomatopaste, salt, cumin, oregano, and rice and stir

for 1 minute, until all the ingredients are well mixed and the rice iscoatedinoil.

ADD THE BEANS AND SIMMER Add the beans and their liquid, along with thewater,tothepot.Bringtoaboil,cover,andreducetoasimmer.Cookfor 35 to 40minutes, or until all thewater has been absorbed by therice.Allowthecoveredpottositofftheheatfor5minutes.Fluffthericewithaforkandserve.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUECooking the rice Rice requires a specific amount of liquid to cook properly.Becauseonionsandgreenpepperscancontributeaconsiderableamountofliquidto a recipe, a volume measure for each is given. While the measurements areapproximate,makingsurethechoppedvegetablesareclosetotheseamountswillensurethatthericecooksproperly.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Youcanpreparetherecipeinitsentiretythenightbeforewithverylittleeffectonitstasteandtexture.However,youwillwanttowarmthedishbeforeserving.Thiscanbedone in themicrowaveor on the stovetop. Just sprinkle about¼cupofwateroverthericetomakesureitdoesnotdryoutwhenreheated.

MIXEDGREENSALAD

I find that a simple green salad is often overlooked by hosts but,when it is offered, it’s rarely passed over by guests. A well-madegreen salad not only adds some needed green to a table, it alsocomplements grilled meats incredibly well. I consider it the littleblackdressofvegetables:everyoneshouldhaveagreensaladrecipeintheirrepertoireandshouldfeelcomfortablewhippingitupatamoment’snotice.Serves10

SherryVinaigrette2tablespoonssherryvinegar2tablespoonsredwinevinegar2tablespoonsoliveoilPinchofsalt

2headsbutterlettuce,coresremovedandleavestornintobite-sizepieces1pintcherrytomatoes,halved

1Englishcucumber,cutinhalflengthwisethenslicedcrosswise2tablespoonschoppedchives

PREPARETHEVINAIGRETTEPlacetheingredientsforthedressinginabowlorjarand stir or shakewell. Keep inmind that the oil and vinegarwill notblend.Setaside.

PREPARE THE SALAD Toss the salad ingredients and place on a serving dish,distributingthemevenly.

SERVEWhenservinglargegroupsinsituationswherethefoodwillbeleftout for awhile, I like to serve the dressing on the side and allowmyguests to drizzle it onto their salads themselves—this keeps the salad

greenscrisperlonger.Becausethisdressingis“broken”—thatis,theoilandvinegararenotblended—it’s important that it be well stirred or shaken before it isserved.

BASICSOFAWELL-MADEGREENSALAD:

1.Freshlyhand-torngreenlettuceleaves.

2.Asmallamountofchoppedherbstoaddalayerofflavorandfreshness.

3.Awell-seasonedvinaigrettedressing—saltbalancestheflavors.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTSSherryvinegarLikebalsamicvinegar,sherryvinegarisagedand,asaresult,hasatouchofsweetnessandadepthofflavor.Ilikeitforbothitsflavoranditsambercolor,whichlooksbeautifulwhenpooledonadish.

TECHNIQUE

TearinglettuceleavesCuttinglettuceleaveswithaknifewillspeedupoxidationand cause the edges of the leaf to turn limp anddark. Toprevent this, tear thelettuceleavesbyhand.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The dressing can be made well in advance and kept refrigerated in a coveredcontainer.Anyextradressing canbekept in the same fashion for a littleover aweek.Youcanprepare the salada fewhours inadvance so longasyouplaceadamppapertoweloverthegreens,covertheentiredishwithplastic,andplaceitintherefrigerator.

ThreeMilksCake

THREEMILKSCAKE{TRESLECHES}

While tres leches is servedalloverLatinAmerica,Nicaragua is thecountrythatcanclaimthisdishas itsown.Aplainvanillacake issoaked in a mixture made from three kinds of milk—evaporated,sweetened condensed, and whole—and then topped with silkymeringue.It’sasimpleyetsatisfyingdessert,especiallywhenservedwithashotofespresso.Therecipeforthisyellowcakebelongedtomy great-grandmother Wiwa and is a great basic cake recipe.Serves12to14

Cake2sticks(1cup)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature2cupssugar4eggs3cupscakeflour1tablespoonbakingpowder1teaspoonsalt1cupmilk1teaspoonvanillaextract

MilkMixture1½cupswholemilk2½cups(two14-ouncecans)sweetenedcondensedmilk3cups(two12-ouncecans)evaporatedmilk

Meringue4eggwhites1cupsugarPinchofsalt

Pinchofsalt

PREPARE THE CAKE BATTER Preheat the oven to 350°F.Grease the bottom andsidesofa9by13-inchbakingdishandsetaside.Usingastandmixerwiththepaddleattachmentorahandheldelectricmixer, beat the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until themixture is pale yellow and fluffy, 2 to 4 minutes depending on yourmixer.Addtheeggsandcontinuebeatinguntilthemixtureislightandfluffy,another3minutes.Scrapethesidesandbottomofthebowlwitharubberspatulaifnecessary.Mix the cake flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl and stir tocombinewithawhiskorfork.Combinethemilkandvanillaextractinaliquidmeasuringcup.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,addaquarteroftheflourmixtureand then a quarter of themilkmixture. Continue alternating betweenthe two mixtures until they have both been completely added to thebatter.Beatforafinal30secondstofullycombinethebatter(butmakesureyoudonotovermix,asyoumayendupwithatoughcake).

BAKETHECAKEPourthecakebatterintothepreparedbakingdishandspreadit out evenly using a rubber spatula. Bake for 45 minutes, or until askewerinsertedintothecentercomesoutclean.Thetopofthecakewillbeadeepgoldenbrown.Allowthecaketocoolcompletelyinthepan,about30minutes.

SOAKTHECAKEWITHTHEMILKSUseawoodenskewerorothersharp,thinobjectto poke holes all over the top of the cake, including the edges andcorners.Combinethewholemilk,sweetenedcondensedmilk,andevaporatedmilkinabowlandwhiskwelltofullyincorporatethethicksweetenedcondensedmilkintothemixture.Slowlypourthemilkmixtureoverthecooledcake.Itmayseemasifthecakewillnotbeabletoabsorballoftheliquid,butkeepgoing—itwillallsoakin.Allowthecaketorestintherefrigeratorwhileyoupreparethemeringue.

PREPARETHEMERINGUEPlacetheeggwhites,sugar,andsaltintheworkbowl

ofastandmixerorametalmixingbowlandsetoverapotofsimmeringwater.Stir theeggwhitemixtureuntil thesugarandsaltaredissolvedandtheeggwhitesarewarmtothetouch,about4minutes.Themixturewillbeabitfrothyandmilkyincolor.Remove the bowl from the pot and beat on high speed (using thewhiskattachmentifyou’reusingastandmixer)untiltheeggwhitesarestiffandglossy,about5minutes.

FINISH THE CAKEWhile themeringue is stillwarm, use a rubber spatula tospread it all over the top of the cake. For a decorative touch, createpeaks ofmeringue by tapping the flat side of the spatula all over thetopping. Ifyou like, finishbycaramelizingthesurfaceof themeringuewithakitchentorch.

COOKINGNOTESEQUIPMENTBecausethecakewillnotberemovedfromthebakingpan,selectonethatyouwillbehappy serving the cake from. I like touse a rectangularwhite ceramicoven-proofdish.

TECHNIQUES

SwissmeringueCaramelizingthemeringueCaramelizingorbrowningmeringuegivesitadepthof flavor and an attractive appearance. This is best done with a kitchen torch,which can be purchased at a kitchenware store. Follow the manufacturer’sinstructions for turning on the torch. Hold it about 4 inches away from themeringue andwave it back and forth over the surface of the topping until youachievestreaksofcaramelbrowncolorallover. Ifyoudonothavea torch,youmaywishtogarnishwithadustingofcocoapowderorcinnamon.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thecakeisbestpreparedadayinadvanceandallowedtorestintherefrigerator.Thetimeintherefrigeratorwillallowthecaketoabsorbthemilkmixtureandalsostiffenabit,sothatitdoesn’tfallapartwhenyoucutintoit.

CubanCookout

DrinkMojito

StartersChorizoSliderswithGuavaKetchup/FritasCubanasPlatter of Shrimpwith Garlicky CubanMojo / Fuente de Camarones alAjillo

MainCoursesGrilled Mahi-Mahi with Mango Salsa /Mahi a la Parilla con Salsa deMangoCubanGrilledPork/LechonAsado

SidesGrilledRipePlantains/PlatanosMadurosalaParrillaRiceCookedinBlackBeans/MorosyCristianosAvocadoSalad/EnsaladadeAquacate

DessertButterRumCakewithLimeIcing/PanetelaBorracha

LeftoversGrilledCubanSandwich/SandwichCubano

Cubancuisine isawonderfulblendofSpanish,African,andCaribbeaninfluences—theSpanish influencebeingperhaps the strongest, asCubawasonceaSpanishcolony.Although the flavorsofCubancookingarehighlyspicedwithgarlicandcumin,they’renotfieryandhotchilesareseldom used. Pork is immensely popular on the island; it and othermeatsareoftenservedshredded,pulled,pounded,orchoppedtostretchtheservings.DuetoCuba’stropicalclimate,fruitsandtubers,especiallyyams,bananas,andplantains,areabundantandareusedinbothsweetand savory dishes. Characteristic ingredients of Cuban cuisine includegarlic and onion; green peppers; cumin and oregano; citrus fruits; riceandbeans;rootvegetables;plantains;andavocados.

{MENUGAMEPLAN}

Onedayinadvance:Bakethecakeandmakethelimeicing.Icethecake,butwaittogarnishitwithmint.Coverloosely.Storage:roomtemperaturePreparethechorizoslidermeatmixture.Storage:refrigerator

Thenightbefore:Marinatethepork.Storage:refrigeratorPreparegarlickymojofortheshrimp.Storage:refrigeratorMarinatetheonionsfortheavocadosalad.Storage:refrigeratorShapethechorizosliderpatties.Storage:refrigerator

Onthemorningof:Preparericeandbeansandleavecoveredinthepot.Storage:roomtemperaturePreparethemangosalsaforthefish.Storage:roomtemperaturePreparethebutterglazefortheplantains.Storage:roomtemperature;however,theglazewillgethardandwillneedtobereheatedFrythepotatosticks.Placeinanairtightcontainer.Storage:roomtemperaturePreparetheguavaketchup.Storage:roomtemperature

Twotothreehoursbefore:

Dependingonthesizeofyourpieceofpork,youmayneedtostartgrillingnow(seetheCookingTimesGuide).Deveinandbutterflytheshrimp.Storage:refrigeratorBoiltheporkmarinadeandpuree.Storage:roomtemperature

Inthehourbefore(setup):Setupthemojitobar.Setupatraywithingredientsforthechorizosliders(buns,ketchup,andpotatosticks).Setout:GarlickymojoMangosalsa

Asyoureventunfolds:Grillyourporkasdictatedbycutandrequiredcookingtime(seetheCookingTimesGuide).Servemojitos.Grillandassemblethechorizoslidersandservethemwiththeguavaketchup.Grilltheshrimpandserveitwiththegarlickymojo.Grilltheplantains.Grillthefish.Finishthepork,pullingorshreddingitbyhand.Slicetheavocadosforthesaladandservewiththemarinatedonions.SetouttheMorosyCristianos(beansandrice).Servethemaincoursesandsides.Garnishthecakewithfreshmint.Servedessert.WrapandstoreleftoverporkforCubanSandwiches.

Mojito

MOJITO

Made famous by Ernest Hemingway, the mojito is considered bymany tobeCuba’snationalcocktail.Thedrinkgets itsname fromtheAfricanwordmojo,whichmeans“tocastaspell.”Appropriate,considering how good just one mojito makes you feel!Makes1cocktail

¼cuplightlypackedfreshmintleaves4teaspoonssugar½lime,cutinto4smallpiecesIce2ounceswhiterum4ouncesclubsodaFreshmintsprig,forgarnishStickofsugarcane,forgarnish

MUDDLE THEMINTAND LIMERipthemint leavesintosmallpiecesbyhandandplacetheminatallglass.Addthesugarandlimepiecesandmuddleormashtheingredientsuntilallthejuicehasbeensqueezedoutofthelimeandthesugarhasdissolved.

FINISHTHECOCKTAILFilltheglasswithiceandthenpourintherumandclubsoda.Stirwellandgarnishwithamintsprigand/orasugarcanestick.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTSClub soda Refrigerate your club soda so that it is chilled when added to thecocktail.Thiswillpreventtheicefrommeltingtooquickly,helpingthedrinkkeepitsfizz.

TECHNIQUE

MakingmojitosforagroupIhavenevermadeapitcherofmojitoswithsuccess.The club soda tends to fizzle out, and it is impossible to evenly distribute themuddled limeandmint leaves. Insteadofmakingapitcherofmojitos,muddleabatchofmint,lime,andsugar(belowarethemeasurementsforsixservings;thiscaneasilybedoubled).

Tomakeapitcherfor6:1½cupslightlypackedfreshmintleaves½cupsugar3limes,eachcutinto8pieces12ounceswhiterum24ouncesclubsoda

Dividetheingredientsintoglassesandtopeachwithice,rum,andclubsoda.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Themintleaves,lime,andsugarcanbemuddledandkeptforacoupleofhoursinanairtightcontaineruntilreadytoserve.

ChorizoSliderswithGuavaKetchup

CHORIZOSLIDERSwithGuavaKetchup

{FRITASCUBANAS}

As legendhas it, thesehighlyseasonedburgersgot their start inaCubansausagefactory.Inordertomakesuretheseasoningforthechorizo sausagewasperfect, a small amountof the sausage fillingwasquickly friedupandtasted.Eventually, thesamplesbecameapopular midday snack. Because they pack a powerful punch offlavor,thepattiesarepurposelymadethinandsmall.Youcanthinkof these sliders asmini chorizo burger patties that are piled highwithfriedpotatosticks.Serves12

SliderMix1tablespoonoliveoil1clovegarlic,peeledandcrushed½smallonion,chopped(about½cup)1tablespoonhotpaprika1tablespoonsmokedpaprika1teaspoongroundcumin2teaspoonssalt¼cupketchup1½tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce¾poundgroundbeef,preferablychuck¼poundgroundpork

PotatoSticks2russetpotatoes,unpeeledandcutintomatchsticksorthinstripsVegetableoilforfryingSalt

GuavaKetchup¼cupketchup¼cupguavajelly1½teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce12slider(miniaturehamburger)buns,preferablypotatobread

SAUTÉTHEONIONANDGARLICPlacetheoliveoilandgarlicinasautépansetovermedium-highheat.Whenthegarlicbeginstosizzle(about45seconds),addtheonionandsautéuntil theonionbecomeslimpandtranslucent,about 3 minutes. Add both paprikas, cumin, and salt, and stir tocombine.

PREPARE THE SLIDER MIX Place the onion and garlic mixture, ketchup, andWorcestershiresauceinablenderandpureeuntilsmooth.Placethebeefand pork in amediumbowl and pour the puree over themeat.Usingyourhands,work thepuree into themeatuntilwellmixed.Allow themeatmixturetorestintherefrigeratorforabout1hour.

PREPARETHEPOTATOSTICKSLineadishwithpapertowelsandsetaside.Pour2inchesofoil intoadeep,heavy-bottomedpot.Place thepotoverhighheatandwait for theoil to reach375°Fonadeep-fry thermometer. Ifyoudon’thaveadeep-frythermometer,youcantesttheoiltemperatureby dropping a couple of potato sticks in the oil—if bubbles rise uparoundthepotatoes, it’s ready.Sprinkleasmallamount(abouta four-fingerpinch)ofthepotatosticksintothehotoil(smallbatcheskeepthepotatoesfromformingintoonelargemass).Whenthepotatoescooktoagoldenbrowncolor,inabout2minutes,removethemfromtheoilwithaslottedspoonandplaceonthepapertowel–lineddishtodrain.Immediatelyseasonwithsalt.Repeatwiththeremainingpotatosticksuntilallarecooked,drained,andsalted.Someofthepotatostickswillhavestucktogether.Whentheyhavecooled,gentlybreakapart.

PREPARETHEGUAVAKETCHUP Inasmallbowl,mixtogethertheketchup,guava

jelly,andWorcestershiresauceuntilwellcombined.

SHAPE AND COOK THE PATTIESHeatyourgrill tohigh(550°F)andclose the lid.Wait at least 15 min;utes before lowering the heat to medium-high(450°F) and continuing. (Alternatively, you can use a griddle overmedium-highheat.)While thegrill isheating, roll about¼cupof themeatmixture into a ball and lightly flatten into a patty about½ inchthick. Repeat with the remaining mixture. Oil the grill grates with avegetable oil–soakedpaper towelheldwith a longpair of tongs.Cookthepattiesforabout3minutesperside.

ASSEMBLE THE SLIDERS AND SERVE Slather the guava ketchup on both sides of abun. Layer amoundofpotato sticks on thebottombun,place apattyoverit,thentopwithanothermoundofpotatosticksandtheotherhalfofthebun.Serve.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTSPotatosticksYoucaneasilysubstitutestore-boughtpotatochipsorsticksforthehomemadeversion.Irecommendusingthecolorfulrootvegetablechipsthatcomeinstickform,orsimplyuseyourfavoritebaggedpotatochip.HamburgerbunsAnytypeofminiature(slider-size)hamburgerbuncanbeused;however, soft potato bread is the most authentic. If you cannot find slider-sizebuns,substitutesplitdinnerrolls.GuavaketchupTheguavajellyaddssweetnesstotheketchup.Intheeventyoucannotfindit,apricotjellycanbesubstituted.

TECHNIQUE

GrillversusgriddleAplancha,or stovetopgriddle, is traditionallyused tocookthesesliders.However,theycaneasilybegrilledaswell.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Theslidermix,potatosticks,andguavaketchupcanallbemadeupto2daysinadvance.Keeptheslidermixandketchupintherefrigeratorandstorethepotatosticksinanairtightcontainer.

Mojoingredients

PLATTEROFSHRIMPwithGarlickyCubanMojo

{FUENTEDECAMARONESALAJILLO}

Here I have taken a Cuban classic,camarones al ajillo(shrimp ingarlic sauce), and adapted it for backyard entertaining. Iwas alsoinspiredbythecrowd-pleasingmoundsofcoldpoachedshrimpwithsidesofcocktailsauceyouseeatbuffets.SoIgrilledjumboshrimp,piledthemonaplatter,andservedthemwithmojo,theaddictivelydelicious citrus-garlic sauce that has become synonymous withCubancooking.Serves8

Mojo7clovesgarlic,peeled2teaspoonssalt⅓cuplimejuice(from4to5limes)¼cuporangejuice(from1orange)¼cupoliveoil

Shrimp2poundsjumboshrimp,peeled,deveined,andbutterflied¼cupvegetableoilSaltandblackpepper2limes,cutintosmallwedges

PREPARETHEMOJOMakeawetgarlicpastebymashingthegarliccloveswithsalt inamortarandpestle. Ifyoudonothaveone,youcanuseacupand thebackof awooden spoon;otherwise, simply sprinkle thegarlicwiththesaltanduseyourknifetochopitveryfinelyintoapaste.Place the garlic paste in a small bowl and pour the lime juice and

orangejuiceoverit.Allowthemixturetositfor20minutes.Place the olive oil in a small saucepan and set it overmedium-highheat. (This can be done on your grill or on your stove.) When smallbubbles begin to rise to the surface of the oil, carefully add the garlicandcitrusmixturetothepan(theoilwillsizzleabit,sobecarefulthatitdoesnotsplatteronyou).Givethemixtureaquickstirandallowtocook over medium-high heat for 1 minute before removing from theheat.Setaside.

SEASON AND GRILL THE SHRIMP Place the shrimp in a large mixing bowl anddrizzlethevegetableoiloverthem.Liberallyseasonwithsaltandpepperandtosswell.It’sbesttouseyourhandsforthis,asyouwanttomakesuretheoilandseasoningsgetinsidetheslitsyoumadeintheshrimp.Heat your grill to high (550°F) and close the lid. Wait at least 15minutes before lowering the heat to medium-high (450°F) andcontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.It is important toproperlyplace theshrimpon thegrill so that theycook quickly and evenly. Again, its best to use your hands for this.Holdingtheshrimpby its tail,place thebutterfliedshrimponthegrillonebyone,slitsidedown.Curl thetaildowntowardstheheadof theshrimp.Closethelidandcookforabout5minutes,oruntilthefleshoftheshrimphasturnedwhiteandisno longer translucent.Youwillnotneedtoturntheshrimpover.

SERVE THE SHRIMP AND MOJOMound the grilled shrimpon a large platter andgarnishwithlimewedges.Servewiththegarlickymojoforyourgueststouseasadippingsauce.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTSMojo PronouncedMOH-hoh, mojo is the condiment most often used in Cubancooking—it canbeused as amarinadeor a dipping sauce. (Note thatwhile thename of the sauce is similar to that of themojito cocktail, the two concoctionshavenoothersimilarities.)Mojosarealwaysoil-basedandalwayscontaincitrusjuice. This recipe is for the version used as a dipping sauce; those used formarinadescontaingroundcuminand/ordriedoregano(seetherecipeforCuban

GrilledPork).

TECHNIQUE

ButterfliedshrimpAbutterfliedshrimphasbeenevenlysplitlengthwisedownitscenterandcutalmostallthewaythrough(notethatsometimesitiscutallthewaythrough, intotwopieces).Whenopened, ithas theshapeofabutterfly. I liketouse this technique on shrimp so that it cooks evenly and quickly (shrimp easilyovercookandcanturntoughandrubbery).Placethetipofyourknifebladeintheindentationcreatedontheshrimp’sback

bythedeveiningprocess.Slicetheshrimp¾ofthewaythrough,sothatthefleshisstillconnectedononeside.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Themojocanbemadeadayinadvanceandkeptrefrigerated.Heatovermediumheatinasaucepanuntilwarmbeforeserving.

GrilledMahi-MahiwithMangoSalsa

GRILLEDMAHI-MAHIwithMangoSalsa

{MAHIALAPARRILLACONSALSADEMANGO}

SimplygrilledfishbrightenedwithasqueezeoffreshlimeisaverytypicalCubandish.Snackingonfreshmangoisalsoverypopularonthe island. Combining the two, however, was a Miami inventionthat many have come to really enjoy. A light and refreshingalternativetobeefonthegrill,thisisthefishrecipeImakethemost—andInevergettiredofit!Serves8

MangoSalsa2ripemangoes,peeledandchopped½smallredonion,finelychopped(about½cup)1jalapeñochile,stemmedandfinelychopped¼cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,finelychopped,plusmoresprigsforgarnish¼cuplimejuice(from3limes)

½teaspoonsaltBlackpepper

8mahi-mahifillets(about4poundstotal)4limes1cupoliveoilSaltandblackpepper

PREPARETHEMANGOSALSAPlaceallthesalsaingredientsinamixingbowlandtosstocombine.Allowtositforatleast15minutesatroomtemperaturewhileyoupreparethefish.

PREPARE THE GRILL AND SEASON THE FISH Heat your grill tomedium-high (450°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Squeezehalfalimeanddrizzle2teaspoonsofoliveoilovereachfillet(get the juice and oil on both sides) and then season with salt andpepper.

GRILLTHEFISHANDSERVEPlacethefishonthegrillandclosethelid.Grillthefishfor8minutes,oruntilyouseegrillmarksandthebottomhalfofthefleshbecomesopaque.Flipandcookforanother6to8minutes.Thefishisreadywhenthebottomhalfof thefleshhasbecomeopaqueandthetopfleshbeginstoflake.Placethefishonaplatter.Topeachfilletwithaspoonfulofsalsaandgarnishwithsprigsofcilantro.Serveanyremainingsalsaontheside.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTSMahi-MahiMahi-mahiisafirmandflavorfulfishthathasamoderateamountoffat,makingitagoodgrillingfish.Itisalsoknownasdolphinfish,butitsHawaiianname,mahi-mahi,ismorecommonlyused.Ifyoucannotfindmahi-mahi,youcansubstitutegrouper,tilapia,orhalibutinthisrecipe.

TECHNIQUES

Successfully grilling fish Fish is tricky to cook well on a grill. For starters, ittendstodryoutquickly;butprobablymostfrustratingisthatittendstosticktothegratesevenwhentheyarewelloiled.Myapproachistousedenseandmeatyfish rather than flaky fish. I’ve listed some suggestions above in the Ingredientsnoteabove,butwhenindoubt,lookforsteakcutsorthick,densefillets.Chopping amango Peel themango first, using a vegetable peeler or a smallparingknife.Mangoeshaveasinglelargeseedinthecenterthatyouwillneedtocut around. It may take a bit of trial and error to remove as much flesh fromaroundtheseedaspossible.Afteryouhaveremovedtheflesh,chopit.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The mango salsa can be made a few hours before serving and stored at roomtemperature.

CubanGrilledPork

CUBANGRILLEDPORK{LECHONASADO}

Cubanslovetheirpork.It’shardtofindaCubanorCuban-Americanwho doesn’t have a memory of spending hours waiting for alechonto finishcooking in someone’sbackyard,and then sharing itwith family and friends (I am certainly no exception). What setsCuban-styleporkapart istheuseofmojocriollo,ahighlyseasonedmarinade made up of tangy citrus juice, vast amounts of garlic,cumin,andoregano.Andwhile roastingawholepig isdeliciouslyfun,smallercutsarefarmoremanageableandeasiertoworkwith.So I’ve come up with a chart outlining various cuts and theircooking times, and the approximate amount ofmarinade youwillneedtobeginmakingyourownmemories.

CitrusGarlicMarinade(seechartforamountspercut)Pork(seechartforcutandsize)

Salt

PREPARE THEMARINADEMixallmarinadeingredientsinabowlandletsit for10minutes.

MARINATETHEPORKIfusingaflavorinjector(seeCookingNotes),strainhalfthemarinadeintoabowl,addingthestrained-outgarlictotheotherhalfof the marinade. Use the injector to take in some strained marinade,piercetheporkwiththetipoftheneedle,andinjectitintotheflesh.Dothisalloverthemeatuntilthestrainedmarinadehasbeenusedup.Ifyouarenotusingaflavorinjector,usealong,thinknifetocreate

deepgashesalloverthefleshandpourthemarinadeoverthepork.Place the marinated pork in a deep bowl or container. Generously

season the outside of the pork with salt and pour the remainingmarinadealloverit,spreadingtheonionringsalloverthetop.Coverwellwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorup

to24hours.

BOIL THE MARINADE FOR BASTING (This does not applywhen you’re preparing awhole pig.) Remove the pork from the marinade and place it on aplatter.Transferthemarinadetoasaucepan,addtheonions,andbringtoaboilfor2minutes.Removefromtheheatandallowtocool.Placethe boiledmarinade and onions in a blender and puree until smooth.Themarinadeisnowreadytouseasabastingliquid.

GRILL THE PORK Before heating your grill, remove the pork from therefrigeratorandbringtoroomtemperature.Dependingonthesizeofthecutthiscouldtake15minutes(smallporktenderloin)to1hour(alargerleg).Heat your grill to high (550°F) and close the lid. Wait at least 15minutesbeforeloweringtheheattothetemperaturerequiredforthecutyou are using. Oil the grill grates with a vegetable oil–soaked papertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Ifyourcuthastheskinstillattached,beginthecookingprocesswiththeskinsideup(awayfromthedirectheat).Grillyourmeataccordingtothetimeoutlinedinthechart.Turnthemeat over once when you are one quarter through with the cookingtime,againwhenyouarehalfwaythrough,andoncemorewhenthree-quarters of the cooking time has elapsed. The pork is ready when itreachesaninternaltemperatureof150°Fonthegrill(itwillcontinuetocook when it’s off the heat, raising the internal temperature to thedesired160°F).

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTSSevilleorangesASevilleorangeisabitterorangethatissometimesreferredtoasasourorange.Itsthickskinispaleyellowanditsfleshcontainsmanyseeds.Dueto its very sour taste, it is not an eating orange. In the event you cannot findSevilleoranges,substitutea2:1ratiooflimejuiceandregularorangejuice.

TECHNIQUES

Flavor injector Cuban-style pork is very well seasoned both inside and out. Aflavor injector, a kitchen tool that resembles a needle and syringe, is used tomarinate the interior fleshof thick cuts of pork. If youdonothaveone, simply

makedeepgasheswithathinknifealloverthemeatandpourthemarinadeoverand into the cuts.Thinner cuts suchas the loin and tenderloindonot require aflavor injector, but they should still bepiercedwith a knifebeforebeing coatedwithmarinade.Injecting the flesh To prevent the garlic from getting stuck in the injector tip,strainhalfofthemarinadeandusethatintheinjector.Whenyouinjectthemarinadeintothepork,youwillseeabulgeappearcloseto

thesiteoftheinjection.Thatisthemarinadesettlingintotheflesh.Whentheporkis cooked,youmay seepocketsofdarker flesh in theareaswhere themarinadewasinjected;thisisnormal.FreezingcitrusjuiceBecauseIusesomuchcitrusjuiceinmycookingandinsistonusingonlyjuicefromfreshfruit,Ialwaysfreezeleftoverjuicefromrecipesorfrom fruit that is just about to go bad for future use. If placed in an airtightcontainer, citrus juice will keep for a few months. Simply thaw at roomtemperaturebeforeusing.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Themarinadecanbemadeadayinadvance.Allcutscanbeleftmarinatingfor24hours.

CookingTimesGuide

CitrusGarlicMarinade

GrilledRipePlantains

GRILLEDRIPEPLANTAINS

{PLÁTANOSMADUROSALAPARRILLA}

Plantains,ripeorunripe,areastapleofCubancooking.Andwhileeveryonelovestheripeones(maduros),nooneeverwantstomakethem.Typicallydeep-fried,theyareamesstomakeandneverseemtocomeoutwiththatcandylikecoatingyougetatgoodrestaurants.This recipe solves the problem: simply grilling very ripe plantainsandbastingthemwithabutter-sugarglazeisallittakestore-createthegoodstuff.Theseareamustatallmyfamilycookouts.Serves8

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter¾cuppackedbrownsugar2tablespoonsapplecidervinegarorsherryvinegar4veryripe(black)plantains

PREPARETHEBUTTERGLAZEPlacethebutterandsugarinasmallsaucepanovermedium heat and cook until the butter is melted and the sugar isdissolvedinit.Addthevinegarandstirwell.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

PREPARE,GRILL,ANDSERVETHEPLANTAINSHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethe lid.Wait at least 15minutes before lowering theheat tomedium-high (450°F) and continuing.Oil the grill grateswith a vegetable oil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Slicetheunpeeledplantainsinhalflengthwiseandplacethemcutside

down on the grill. Close the lid and cook for 15 minutes. Turn theplantains over andbaste the cut sides of the plantainswith the butterglaze.Closethelidandcontinuecookingforanother15minutes.Brushabitmoreglazeontheplantainsbeforeremovingthemfromthegrill.Servetheplantainsintheirskinswhilehotfromthegrill.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTSPlantains

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Youcanpreparethebutterglazeafewhoursinadvance.Itwillthickenwhencoolandwillneedtobereheated.

TheThreeStagesofaPlantain

RICECOOKEDINBLACKBEANS

{MOROSYCRISTIANOS}

This dish gets its name from the wars between the dark-skinnedMoors (moros) and the light-skinned Spaniards (cristianos) thatoccurred during the eighth century in Spain. It’s a very popularCuban dish, and it’s perfect for outdoor entertaining, as it can bemade well in advance and be served at room temperature.Serves8to10

4clovesgarlic,peeled3teaspoonssalt¼poundbacon(about6strips),chopped2tablespoonsoliveoil1onion,finelychopped(about1cup)1greenpepper,seededandfinelychopped(about¾cup)1bayleaf¼teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoondriedoregano1½cupslong-grainwhiterice2(15½-ounce)cansblackbeans,notdrained1¾cupswater1tablespoonredwinevinegar

MASHTHEGARLICANDRENDERTHEBACONFATPutthegarliconacuttingboardandsprinkle1 teaspoonof saltover thecloves, let it sit fora fewminutes,andminceitintoapastewithaknife.Setaside.Place thebaconandoliveoil ina largepotandset itovermedium-

high heat. Sauté the bacon until it renders its fat and turns a goldenbrowncolor,about6minutes.Movethebaconaroundasit’scookingtopreventitfromstickingtothebottomofthepot.

SAUTÉTHEVEGETABLESANDRICEAddtheonion,greenpepper,andgarlicpastetothebaconandsautéuntilthevegetablesarelimpandtranslucent,about5minutes.Add theremaining2 teaspoonsof salt, thebay leaf,cumin,oregano,andriceandstirfor1minuteuntilwellmixedandallthericeiscoatedinoil.

ADDTHEBEANS,SIMMER,ANDSERVEAddthebeansandtheirliquid,alongwiththewaterandvinegar,tothepot.Coverandbringtoaboil,thenreducetoasimmer. Cook for 35 to 40 minutes, or until all the water has beenabsorbed by the rice. Allow the covered pot to sit off the heat for 5minutes.Fluffthericewithaforkandserve.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTSCannedblackbeansIfyoudonotwanttousetheliquidfromthecannedblackbeans,justaddanextra½cupofwaterwiththedrainedandrinsedblackbeans.

TECHNIQUE

Cooking the rice Rice requires a specific amount of liquid to cook properly.Becauseonionsandgreenpepperscancontributeaconsiderableamountofliquidto a recipe, a volume measure for each is given. While the measurements areapproximate,makingsurethechoppedvegetablesareclosetotheseamountswillensurethatthericecooksproperly.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Youcanpreparetherecipeinitsentiretythenightbeforewithverylittleeffectonthetasteandtextureofthedish.However,youwillwanttowarmthedishbeforeserving.Thiscanbedoneinthemicrowaveoronthestovetop.Justsprinkleabout¼cupofwateroverthericetomakesureitdoesnotdryoutwhenreheated.

AvocadoSalad

AVOCADOSALAD{ENSALADADEAGUACATE}

SaladgreensarehardtocomebyinCubancooking.Butanavocadosalad—simply made by topping sliced avocado with red onionslices, olive oil, and vinegar—is both traditional and refreshing.Serves6to8

½redonion,thinlysliced1cupredwinevinegar1Floridaavocadoor2Hassavocados(about1poundtotal),sliced1tablespoonhighest-qualityextra-virginoliveoilSaltandblackpepper

MARINATETHEONIONPlacetheonionslicesandvinegarinaresealableplasticbag,pressoutasmuchairaspossible,andclosethebag.Alternatively,place theonionandvinegar ina smallbowlandputapieceofplasticwrapdirectlyon the surfaceof the ingredients so that theonion slicesremain submerged in the vinegar. Allow the onion tomarinate for atleast30minutes.

ASSEMBLETHESALADANDSERVEReserveafewtablespoonsofthevinegarusedtomarinate the onion before draining the onion slices and setting aside.Placetheavocadoslicesonaservingplatterandtopwiththeredonionslices.Drizzletheoilandreservedredwinevinegaroverthesaladandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTSFloridaversusHassAvocadosCubans tend touseFloridaavocados since thesearemorewidelyavailableintheCaribbeanandinMiami.TheyarelargerthantheCaliforniaorHassvariety,andtheyremaingreenwhenripe, incontrasttoHass,whicharedarkgreen,almostblack,whenripe.

Florida avocados have amilder flavor due to their higherwater content, andtheyarereadytoeatassoonastheyyieldtopressurewhensqueezedlightly.

TECHNIQUES

MarinatingonionsAllowingrawonionstomarinateinvinegaroranotherhighlyacidicliquidmellowsoutthestrongflavorandsoftensitstexture.Slicinganavocado

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Theonionscanbeleftmarinatinguptoafewdaysinadvance.However,whiletheoil andvinegarhelp slowdown thebrowningof the avocado’s flesh, it’s best toslicetheavocadoshortlybeforeserving.

BUTTERRUMCAKEwithLimeIcing

{PANETELABORRACHA}

RumcakehasalwaysbeenaCubanstapleatweddings,birthdays,Christmas parties, and celebrations of all kinds. The secretingredient in this recipe is the package of instant pudding mixadded to the cakebatter—itmakes the cakeperfectlymoist everytime.AnotherfeatureofthisrecipeisthetouchoflimejuiceIaddto the icing, and the mint garnish—it’s my ode to the mojitococktail.Serves12to18

CakeBatter2sticks(1cup)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1½cupssugar4eggs2cupscakeflour2teaspoonsbakingpowder1teaspoonsalt1(3½-ounce)packagevanillainstantpuddingmix½cupmilk½cuplightrum1teaspoonvanillaextract

RumSyrup½stick(¼cup)butter1cupsugar¼cupwater¼cuplightrum

LimeIcingJuiceof1lime(about1tablespoon)¾cupconfectioners’sugar1bunchfreshmint

PREPARE THE BATTER AND BAKE THE CAKE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease andfloura12-cupBundtpan.Setaside.Using a handheld electric mixer or stand mixer with the paddleattachment, beat the butter and sugar until well combined and themixture is pale yellow and fluffy, 2 to 4 minutes depending on yourmixer.Addtheeggsandcontinuebeatinguntilthemixtureislightandfluffy,about3minutes.Scrapethebottomandsidesofthebowlwitharubberspatulaifnecessary.Combinetheflour,bakingpowder,salt,andvanillapuddingmixinabowlandsetaside.Combinethemilk,rum,andvanillainameasuringcupandsetaside.Alternateaddingtheflourmixtureandthemilkmixturetothebutterandeggs,mixinguntilalltheingredientsarewellincorporated.PourthecakebatterintothepreparedBundtpanandbakefor1hour.Thecakeisreadywhena skewer inserted in thecenter comesout clean.Youmayalsoseethesidesofthecakeshrinkawayfromthepan.

PREPARETHERUMSYRUPANDSOAKTHECAKEPlacethebutter,sugar,andwaterinapan and simmer until the liquid becomes slightly thickened, about 8minutes. Themixture will foam a bit. Stir occasionally and lower theheat if the mixture begins to bubble over. When the mixture hasthickened, add the rum and stir well. Remove from the heat and setaside.Assoonasyouremovethecakefromtheoven,pokeholesalloveritssurfacewithalongskewer.Slowlydrizzlealloftherumsyrupoverthecake (itmay seem like overkill, butmake sure youuse all the syrup).Allow the cake to cool completely in the pan. Once the cake is cool,invertitontoaservingdish.

PREPARE THE LIME ICING AND ICE THE CAKE Mix the lime juice and confectioners’sugar in a small bowl until the sugar is dissolved. It should be theconsistencyofmayonnaise.Drizzleorpipetheicingoverthetopofthecake, allowing it to drip down the sides. Garnish by placing plenty offreshmintsprigsinthecenterholeofthecake.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUESPipingthelimeicingInordertodrizzletheicingproperly,youcancarefullypouritoverthecake,allowingittodripdownthesides.Alternatively,youcancreateapipingbagwith a resealableplastic bag. Pour the icing into theplastic bag andpushittowardabottomcorner.Snipoffthetipandpipetheicingthrough.Bundtpan I likeusingaBundtpan foracoupleof reasons: itallows foreasy

slicing and serving, and its center hole is perfect for holding the bunch of freshmint.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Therumglazecanbemadewhileyou’rewaitingforthecaketobake.Afteralltheingredientshavebeencombined,setitasideinthepan,offtheheat,thengentlywarmitbeforedrizzlingitoverthecake.Themint shouldnotbeplacedon thecakeuntil it is ready tobeserved,as it

willquicklywiltatroomtemperature.

GrilledCubanSandwich

GRILLEDCUBANSANDWICH

{SANDWICHCUBANO}

AssoonassomeonefindsoutaboutmyCubanbackground,aCubansandwich question is never far away. It’s nowonder, since Cubansandwicheshaverecentlypoppeduponmenusalloverthecountry.Whilemany have gotten close to re-creating the real thing, I feelmostmiss themark.Sohere isa step-by-stepguide tocreatinganauthentic sandwich Cubano.This is also a great way to use up theleftoversfromyourCubanpigroast!Serves8

1loafCubanbread,slicedlengthwise½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,softened3tablespoonsyellowmustard,ortotaste1½poundsboiledham,sliced1½poundsroastedpork,sliced1poundSwisscheese,sliced1cupdillpicklechips,ortotaste

ASSEMBLETHESANDWICHSpread2tablespoonsofthebutterononehalfofthebreadloafandathinlayerofmustardontheother.Place1to2layersofham, pork, cheese, and, finally, pickles on the buttered bread and topwiththemustard-spreadbread.

WRAPTHESANDWICH INFOILSmeartheremainingbutterallovertheoutsideofthesandwichandwrapitcompletelyinaluminumfoil.

PRESSANDGRILLTHESANDWICHHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Wait at least 15 minutes before lowering the heat to medium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.

Before grilling the sandwich, press down on it with your hands toflatten it. Place the wrapped, flattened sandwich on the grill and topwithabrick,grillpress,oranyotherheavy,heat-resistantobject.Closethelidandgrillfor5to6minutesperside.Remove the wrapped sandwich from the grill and take off the foil.Returnthesandwichto thegrillandgrill forabout2 to3minutesperside,oruntilbothpiecesofbreadarecrispyandgoldenbrown.

SLICEANDSERVERemovethesandwichfromthegrillandcutatanangleintosmall sandwich wedges (triangles). Place on a large platter and servewhilestillhot.

VARIATION:MEDIANOCHESANDWICH

As an alternative to theCuban sandwich try amedianoche (midnight) sandwich,whichhas the exact same fillings but ismadewith a sweet eggbread,which isreferredtoaspandemedianoche,ormidnightsandwichbread.Thesegoldenbrownhoagie-shapedbreads canbe foundatmost Latinmarkets, or you can substitutechallahorbrioche.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTSCubanbreadMadefromwhiteflour,yeast,andabitoflard,thisbreadhasaverythincrustandsoftmiddlefilledwithtunnels.Cubanbreadisdistinguishedbythepalmfrondplacedlengthwisedownitsmiddlepriortobaking,itslength(almost3feet),anditssomewhatrectangularshape.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The loaf sandwichcanbepreparedandwrapped in foila fewhours inadvance.Pressandgrillrightbeforeserving.

ThebuildingblocksofaCubansandwichare:•Athinlayerofyellowmustardonthetoppieceofbread•Asinglelayerofdillpicklechips•AfewslicesofSwisscheese•1to2layersofroastpork•1to2layersofsweetboiledham•Athinlayerofsoftenedbutteronthebottompieceofbread

Keepinmind:1.CubanbreadmakesaCubansandwich.Ifyoucan’tfindCubanbread,goodalternativesareciabattaorpaninibread,sincetheyhaveasimilarsoft,airymiddle.2.Thesandwichmustbepressed.3.Thefillingsmustbewarm,thecheesemelted,andthebreadtoasted.4.ThemustardhastobesimpleyellowAmericanmustard.5.Dillpicklechipsmustbeincluded.

NorthernAndeanBarbecue

DrinkColdVenezuelanBeer

StarterCornmeal-CheesePancakes/Arepas

MainCoursesSalt-CrustedBeefTenderloinCharredinCloth/LomoalTrapoBrownSugar–CrustedGrilledChicken/PolloAsadoNegro

Condiments&SidesFreshTomatoSalsa/SalsaPicaTangyAvocadoSauce/SalsaGuascaCoconutRice/ArrozconCoco

DessertVenezuelanChocolatePuddingwithEspressoCream

NorthernAndeanfood(thecookingofColombiaandVenezuela)blendsAfricanandindigenouscuisineswithascatteringofEuropeantraditionsbroughtbyimmigrants.Thesecountries’highlydiversepopulationsandtopographyhaveshapedavariedcuisinethatdiffersgreatlyfromregionto region, as seen in the Caribbean-influenced coasts of Colombia andVenezuela, the indigenous traditions found in the mountain cities ofColombia, and the sophisticated European impact felt in the valleycapital of Venezuela. Chocolate and coffee are essential flavors here.Venezuela is an important producer of premium cacao: though thecountryproduceslessthan1percentoftheworld’scacaobeans,theyaresomeofthebestintheworld.AndColombiaisamajorproducerofthehighly regarded Arabica coffee bean. Other key ingredients of thenorthernAndesincludeplantains,rice,whitefarmer’scheese,corn,andbeef.AlthoughVenezuelamaynot be known for its beer,Venezuelanslove it and favor light pilsner-style beer. In fact, Venezuela has thehighestpercapitabeerconsumptioninLatinAmerica.

{MENUGAMEPLAN}

Onedayinadvance:Preparethechocolatepudding.Storage:refrigerator

Thenightbefore:PrepareandshapetheArepas.Storage:refrigeratorMarinatethechicken.Storage:refrigerator

Onthemorningof:PreparetheTangyAvocadoSauce.Storage:refrigerator

Twotothreehoursbefore:PreparetheCoconutRiceandleaveitinthepot.Storage:roomtemperatureToastthecoconutflakes.Storage:roomtemperaturePreparetheespressocreamandplaceitinaresealableplasticbag.Storage:refrigeratorPreparetheFreshTomatoSalsa;however,donotaddthesalt

untilreadytoserve.Coverwithadamptowel.Storage:roomtemperaturePreparethetomatoesandonionsforthechicken.Storage:roomtemperature

Inthehourbefore(setup):Makesurethebeeriscold.Setupthebeveragebar.Placetherice,stillinitscoveredpot,inalow(180ºF)oven.SetuptheingredientsfortheSalt-CrustedBeefTenderloinCharredinCloth.Setout:TangyAvocadoSauceFreshTomatoSalsa

Asyoureventunfolds:GrilltheArepasandserveasastarter.Grillthechicken.Preparethesalt-crustedbeefpacket.Grillthebeef.Grilltheonionsandtomatoes.SeasontheFreshTomatoSalsawithsaltandsetitout.ToptheCoconutRicewithtoastedcoconutflakesandsetitout.Carvethebeef.Servethemaincoursesandsides.Pipeespressocreamontothechocolatepudding.Servedessert.

CORNMEAL-CHEESEPANCAKES{AREPAS}

Arepas are to Colombians and Venezuelans what tamales are toMexicans:apopularcorn-basedsnackeatenbothathomeandfromstreetcarts.Thesecakesaremadewithwhitecornmeal,freshcorn,and mild white cheese and griddled until hot and bubbly. Theflavors are sweet and savory at the same time and go amazinglywellwith grilledmeats. Thewhite cornmeal used tomake arepasisn’t difficult toobtain (seebelow), sodon’t bediscouraged;don’tjust substitute regular cornmeal—it won’t work. I use mozzarellacheese in place of the traditional queso telita, or fresh farmer’scheese, which is more difficult to obtain. Serves 8 to 10 (aboutsixteen3-incharepas)

4½cups(32ounces)frozencorn,thawed1½cupsprecookedfinelygroundwhitecornmeal½poundmozzarellacheese,shredded(about2cups)1teaspoonbakingpowder½cupmilk2teaspoonssalt

PREPARE THE CORN BATTERPureethecorn inablenderor foodprocessoruntiljust smooth. Transfer the puree to a large mixing bowl. Add thecornmeal, cheese, baking powder, milk, and salt to the bowl and stiruntilwell combined.Themixturewillbeabitwetandchunky.Allowthebattertosit for5minutesoruntil itthickensupabitandyoucaneasilyformpatties.

FORMTHEPATTIESANDREFRIGERATETakeabout⅓cupofthebatterandrollitintoa ball using your hands.Repeatwith the remaining batter,making allthe balls about the same size. Flatten each ball between the palms of

your hands as youwould a hamburger (the patties should be about 3inches across and 2 inches thick). Place the formed patties on a sheetpan linedwithparchmentpaper.Cover thepanwithplasticwrap andrefrigeratefor30minutes.

GRILL THE AREPASPlaceagrill topperon thegrill grates.Heatyourgrill tohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforeloweringtheheattomedium(400°F)andcontinuing.Brushvegetableoilalloverthegrilltopper.Place thearepason thegrill topperandcook for3 to4minutesperside.Thearepasarereadywhentheyturnagoldencolorandthecheesebeginstooozeoutofthetoporsides.

SERVE Arepas are best eaten when still hot. Cut 8-inch squares ofparchmentpapertowraparoundeachcakesoyourguestscaneatthemwiththeirhands.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTSHarinaP.A.N.Thisbrandofthespecialcornmealneededtomake arepas has become so popular that it’s synonymouswith the actual ingredient. This finely ground precookedwhite cornmeal, which can be found in Latinmarkets andonline, is not the same as the cornmeal used in Italiancooking.

EQUIPMENTGrill toppers Grill toppers (also called grill sheets) offer afantastic solution for grilling items that would otherwisestick toor fall through thegrates.Theyare thinperforatedmetalsheetsthatsitdirectlyonthegrillgrates.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The arepas can be prepared and shaped a day in advanceandkeptrefrigerateduntilyouarereadytogrillthem.

Salt-CrustedBeefTenderloin

SALT-CRUSTEDBEEFTENDERLOINCharredinCloth

{LOMOALTRAPO}

ThishasgottobeoneofthecoolestrecipesIknow.Thetechniquesusedaresocounterintuitivethatyoucan’tbelieveitactuallyworks.Theprocessissimple:coverthebeefinanalarminglylargeamountofsalt,wrapitinacottonkitchentowel,andthensetittoburnonthegrill.Yourguestswill thinkyouhave lostyourminduntilyouunravelthemummifiedclothandsliceupthemosttender,perfectlyseasonedbeeftheywillevereat.Serves8

3poundsbeeftenderloin,trimmedofallfatandsilverskin4cupskoshersalt

PREPARE THE GRILL Heat your grill to the highest setting and close the lid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.

PREPARETHEMEATDothisrightbeforeyouarereadytostartgrilling.Youwillneedacleancottonkitchentowelandsomecottonkitchentwine.Laythekitchentowelflatonaworksurface.Spreadabout1½cupsof

saltinalinedownthemiddle(ifyourtenderloinisaslongasthetowel,ornearlyso,formthelinediagonally).Setthetenderloinonthesaltlineandpourtherestofthesaltoverthebeef(itwillseemlikeoverkill,butdon’tworry). Fold the endsof the clothover theendsof thebeef andthen fold the longer sides of the cloth over, completely covering themeat.Tiekitchentwinearoundthecoveredmeat,securingtheclothsothatitcannotunravel.

GRILLTHEMEATPlacethebundledmeatonthegrill,lowerthelid,andcookfor 9minutes. After a fewminutes you will see smoke and smell the

cottontowelburning.Leaveitalone.Carefullyflipthebundledmeatoverandclosethelid.Partoftheclothwillbecharredandmaybreakoff,whichisfine.Closethegrilllidandallow the meat to continue cooking for another 9 minutes. Check fordoneness:Sinceyouwillnotbeabletoseethemeat,useaninstant-readthermometer tocheck thedoneness.Remove themeatwhen it reaches5°Fbelowyourdesiredlevel.

REMOVETHECLOTHANDSERVEWhenthemeatisremovedfromthegrill,theclothsurroundingitwilllookcharredandpetrified.Allowthemeattorestfor5minutes,thenremovetheclothandscrapeoffthesalt.Placethebeefonacuttingboard,slicethemeatcrosswisein½-inchpieces,andserve.

COOKINGNOTESEQUIPMENT

Cloth and twine It is important that both the cloth andtwineusedbe100percentcotton.Otherwise,theywillgoupinflames.The clothwill still smolder and char, and it’s the smokeproduced by this charring that will infuse and flavor thebeef.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Whileyoucanhavethemeatandsaltpremeasuredandthetowel and twine ready to go, the bundle needs to beassembled right before you grill. Otherwise, the salt willdraw out themoisture from the beef and youwill end upwithatoughpieceofmeat.

BROWNSUGAR–CRUSTEDGRILLEDCHICKEN

{POLLOASADONEGRO}

This recipe is an adaptation of a classic Venezuelan dish calledasadonegro(blackroast), inwhichbeefisslowlyroastedinbrownsugar until it is so caramelized that it turns black. The mostintriguingpartofthedish,tome,isthesurprisinglybalancedflavorcombination—the sweetness of the sugar, the saltiness of theWorcestershire, and the punch of the garlic. Reworked to usechicken instead of beef, it’s a great concept for the grill, as thebrownsugarmeltstoformadeliciousglazethatalsoservestokeepthechickenmoist.Serves8

7clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushedSalt1¼cupspackedbrownsugar3tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce2tablespoonsvegetableoilBlackpepper2poundsskin-on,bone-inchickenbreasts2poundsskin-on,bone-inchickenlegsandthighs2onions,cutintothickslices2tomatoes,cutintothickwedges3limes,cutintowedges

CREATE A GARLIC PASTEPlace thecrushedgarlicclovesonyourcuttingboardandsprinkle1teaspoonofsaltoverthem.Waitaminuteorso;youwillnotice moisture leaching from the garlic. Holding your knife bladealmostparalleltothecuttingboard,scrapethebladeoverthechopped

garlic.Repeatthismotionafewtimes,untilthegarlichasturnedintoasemisoftpaste.(Alternatively,useamortarandpestle.)Setaside.

MARINATETHECHICKENInalargemixingbowl,combinethegarlicpaste,brownsugar, Worcestershire sauce, vegetable oil, and ½ teaspoon of blackpepper.Stiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Addthechickenandtossuntilwellcoatedwithmarinade.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast30minutes,orovernight.

GRILLTHEVEGETABLESPlaceagrilltopperonthegrillgrates.Heatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforeloweringtheheattomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Oilthegrilltopperwithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwitha longpair of tongs.Place theonion slices on the topper, seasonwithsaltandpepper,andclosethelid.Cookfor7minutes,oruntiltheonionsdevelop a nice char on the bottom and begin to turn limp. Turn theonions over and add the tomatoes to the grill, skin side down; seasonbothvegetables.Closethelidagainandgrillforanadditional5minutes,oruntiltheonionsandtomatoesturnlimp.Removethevegetablesandgrill topper from the grill and place the onions and tomatoes on aservingplatter.

GRILL THE CHICKEN Increase thegrillheat tohigh(550°F),close the lid,andwait15minutesbeforecontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwitha longpairof tongs.Place thechickenbreasts, skin sidedown,on thegrill.Withtheheatonhighandthelidopen,grillfor10minutestocrispthe skinand render some fat.Lower theheat tomedium-high (450°F),turnthechickenover,addthechickenthighsandlegs,andclosethelid.Cook for an additional 10minutes before flipping the chicken a finaltime.Cookfor10moreminutes,oruntilthechickenregisters160°F(itwill continue to cook off the heat until it reaches the desired 165°F).Remove from the grill and place on the platter with the onion andtomatoes.

SERVE Garnish the platter of chicken, onions, and tomatoes with lime

wedgesandserve.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUE

Whycreateagarlicpaste?Ithelpspreventthegarlicfromburningonthegrillandbecomingbitter.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thechickencanbeleftmarinatingovernight.

FRESHTOMATOSALSA{SALSAPICA}

Part sauce, part tomato salad, salsa picais always found atColombiancookouts. SomeofmyColombian friendshave toldmethe sauce gets it name from how it is prepared: it is picado, orchopped; others tell me its name comes from its spicy—picante—aspect.Whateverthecase,itsvibrantflavorsandfreshnessmakeittheperfectcomplementtogrilledmeats.Makes2cups

2largetomatoes,coarselychopped½redonion,slicedthin½cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,finelychopped2limes

HotsauceSalt

COMBINEALLTHEINGREDIENTSANDSERVEPlacethetomatoes,onion,andcilantroinabowlandtosstocombine.Addthejuiceofthe2limesandseasonwithhotsauceandsalttotaste.Serve.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

TomatoesAlthoughroundredtomatoesaretypicallyusedinsalsapica,trysubstitutingyellow,orange,orotherheirloomtomatoeswheninseason.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Youcanpreparethesalsaafewhoursinadvancesolongasyou hold off on adding the salt until right before serving.

The salt will cause the vegetables to wilt and turn soggy.Placeadamppaper towelover theunsaltedsalsauntilyouarereadytoseasonandserveit.

TANGYAVOCADOSAUCE{SALSAGUASCA}

Don’tbefooledintothinkingthatthisisapureedguacamole.Whilemost of the ingredients are suspiciously similar, the addition of asmallamountofyellowpreparedmustardmakesall thedifferenceintheworld(andnoonecaneverguesswhatthesecretingredientis). This tangy sauce has a lusciously creamy texture thatcomplementscharredmeatsperfectly.Italsowhipsupinaflashandgoesremarkablywellwithalmosteverything.Makesabout4cups

½redonion,coarselychopped(about⅔cup)2clovesgarlic,peeled1serranochile,stemmed½cupredwinevinegar¼cupoliveoil2teaspoonsyellowpreparedmustard½cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems4Hassavocados,pittedandpeeled1teaspoonsalt

PUREE ALL THE INGREDIENTS Place all the ingredients in a blender or foodprocessorandpureeuntil smooth. Ifusingablender,youmayneed topushdowntheingredientsabit.Thefinishedsaucewillhavethetextureofthickmayonnaise.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Serrano chile For this recipe I like using a serrano chile,whichisabithotterthanajalapeñochile;theavocadostend

tomutetheheat.However,usethetypeandamountofchilethatsuitsyourpreference,rememberingthatyoucanremoveanychile’sseedstotemperitsheat.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Because the acid in the vinegar and mustard prevents theavocadofromturningbrown,thisrecipecanbemadeadayinadvance.Tokeepit fresh,Iplaceapieceofplasticwrapdirectly on the surface of the sauce and store it in therefrigerator.

COCONUTRICE{ARROZCONCOCO}

Popular in the beach towns along the Caribbean coast of SouthAmerica, this easily prepared rice offers a sweet and exoticaccompaniment tosimplygrilledmeats.Becausethetextureof thericeissoftenedbythecoconutmilk,Iaddtoastedcoconutflakestoprovideacrunchycomplement.Serves8

1tablespoonoliveoil2clovesgarlic,minced1onion,chopped(about1cup)1teaspoonsalt1¾cupslong-grainwhiterice1(13½-ounce)cancoconutmilk2cupswater2cupssweetenedshreddedcoconutflakes

SAUTé THE VEGETABLES AND RICE Place the olive oil and garlic in a mediumsaucepanovermedium-highheat.Whenthegarlicbeginstosizzle(afterabout 40 seconds), add the onion and salt and sauté until the onionbecomes limp and translucent, about 4minutes. Add the rice and stiruntilallthegrainsarecoatedwithoil.

SIMMERTHERICEAddthecoconutmilkandwaterandbringtoaboil.Cover,reducetoasimmer,andcookfor30minutes,oruntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Allowthecoveredpantositofftheheatfor5minutes.

TOAST THE COCONUT FLAKES Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°F. Place thecoconut flakes on a baking sheet and spread out evenly. Bake for 6minutes,thentosstheflakesandevenlyspreadthemoutagain.Bakefor

an additional 6minutes, until the coconut is very fragrant and goldenbrown. Be careful toward the end of the cooking time, as the coconutcan burn very easily. Remove from the oven and remove the coconutflakesfromthebakingsheetrightawaytopreventmorebrowning.Setaside.

FINISH THE RICE AND SERVE Fluff the rice with a fork and stir inmost of thetoasted coconut flakes, keeping some to garnish the rice. Transfer thecoconutricetoalargeservingbowlandsprinkletheremaningcoconutflakesontop.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Coconut milk To get the full coconut flavor, use regularcoconutmilkandnotthelightvariety.Whenyouopenacanofcoconutmilk,alayeroffatwillhaveaccumulatedatthetopofthecan.Justmixitinwiththerestoftheliquidinthecanbeforeusing.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The coconut flakes can be toasted and kept in an airtightcontainerafewdaysinadvance.Thericecanbemadeafewhoursinadvanceandkeptatroomtemperature.Inordertomaintain the crunchy texture of the coconut flakes, do nottossthemwiththericeuntilyouarealmostreadytoserve.

VENEZUELANCHOCOLATEPUDDINGwithEspressoCream

Just asColombiaboasts someof thebest coffeeplantations in theworld, Venezuela produces what is arguably the best chocolate,fromtheindigenouscriollo(kree-OH-yoh)cacaoplant.Putthesetwoingredients together and you have the makings of a fabulousdessert.Thispuddingbringsout thebest intherichchocolateandtopsitwithcoffee-infusedcream.Serves10to12

ChocolatePudding4largeeggyolks1cupsugar¼cupplus2tablespoonscornstarch6cupswholemilk12ouncesbittersweet(70percentcacao)Venezuelanchocolateorotherbittersweetchocolate,chopped¼teaspoonsalt

2tablespoonsvanillaextract

EspressoCream2cupsheavycream,chilled2tablespoonssugar1tablespoonplus1teaspooninstantespressopowder

MAKE THE CHOCOLATE MIXTURE Place the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch in amedium bowl and beat with a whisk until the ingredients are wellcombinedandtheyolksarealightyellowcolor,about1minute.Placethemilk,chocolate,andsaltinamediumsaucepanandsetover

medium heat. Stir until the chocolate is completely melted, about 2minutes.Themixturewilllooklikechocolatemilk.

TEMPER THE EGGS Your next step is to combine the chocolate and eggmixtures.However, youneed todo so gradually so asnot to cook theeggs with the heat of the chocolate. So add about half a cup of thechocolatemixture to thebowlwith theeggmixtureandstirwell.Addanotherhalfcupandstir.Whentheeggmixturefeelswarmtothetouch,pouritintothepanwiththerestofthechocolateandstirtocombine.

COOK THE PUDDING Place the chocolate-eggmixture overmedium heat andcook, stirring continuously, until the pudding thickens, about 15minutes.Removethepanfromtheheatandstirinthevanillaextract.

COOLTHEPUDDINGPourthepuddingintoaservingdishandallowtocoolatroom temperature, uncovered, for 20minutes. Then coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours,oruntilthepuddinghasthickenedandischilledthrough.Topreventaskinformingonthepudding,makesuretheplasticwraptouchesthepudding’ssurface.

PREPARE THE COFFEE CREAM In a small bowl, mix the sugar and the instantespressopowderandsetaside.Usingahandheldelectricmixerorstandmixerwiththewhiskattachment,beatthecreamonmedium-highspeedfor2minutes,oruntilit’sveryfrothy.Lowerthespeedofthemixerandsprinkle in the sugar-espressomixture. Increase the speed tomedium-highandcontinuebeatinguntilthecreamhasthickenedandsoftpeaksform,about2to3moreminutes.

GARNISH AND SERVE Serve the chilled pudding with dollops of the espressocream.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Venezuelan chocolate If you cannot find Venezuelanchocolate, look for onemadewith criollo beans, or simplypurchasethebestchocolateyoucanfind.Thequalityofthechocolate makes all the difference in the flavor of the

pudding.Heavy whipping cream Whipping cream has the highestpercentageofbutterfat incomparisontoothercreams.Thisextrafatallowsthecreamtodoubleinvolumeandholditsform. In this recipe, you can use either heavy whippingcreamorheavycreamwithgoodresults.However,half-and-half,sometimescalledlightcream,willnotwork.

TECHNIQUE

WhippingcreamAcoldenvironmentisnecessaryforcreamto whip up with as much volume as possible. If you can,placeyourmixingbowlandwhiskorbeaters in the freezer30minutesbeforeusingthem,andmakesureyourcreamiscold.

SERVINGSUGGESTION

For a fun presentation, spoon individual portions of thepuddingintocoffeeorespressocupsandtopwiththecream,as if it were a specialty coffee drink. Then, if you like,garnish with a dusting of cinnamon, cocoa powder, orchocolateshavings.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thepuddingcanbemadeinadvance;itwillkeepforabout4 days in the refrigerator. The cream can be made a fewhoursinadvanceandstoredinaresealableplasticbagintherefrigerator.Whenyou’rereadytoserve,snipoffthebottomcornerofthebagandpipethecreamoverthepudding.

ThePeruvianGrill

DrinkPiscoSour

StartersCevicheBar:

FreshFishCevichewithGinger&Chile/CevichedePescado

ShrimpCeviche/CevichedeCamarones

MushroomCeviche/CevichedeHongos

Crab,Avocado&PotatoTerrine/CausaLimeña

MainCoursesSoy-&Chile-MarinatedBeefSkewers/Anticuchos

ChickenSkewerswithSpicyYellowChileSauce/AjideGallina

SidesRoastedPotatoeswithHuancainaSauce/PapasalaHuancaina

GrilledCorn&QuinoaSalad

DessertPeruvianCaramelMeringue/SuspirodeLimeña

The Inca IndiansofPeruare farmers;historically, theyhavecultivatedmore than one thousand varieties of potatoes and tubers, as well asgrains like quinoa and corn. Spanish colonists, who arrived in thesixteenth century, brought ingredients and techniques—such as beef,eggs, and beans plus herbs and spices such as cilantro and turmeric—thatblendedwithIncancuisine.ChineseandJapaneseinhabitants,whowere initially brought to the country in the nineteenth century asindenturedworkers,havealsoheavilyinfluencedPeruviancuisinewithingredients like soy sauceandginger and techniques likewokcookingandservingrawfish.Someimportantingredientsofthisunique,layeredcuisine include corn, potatoes, chiles, sweet potatoes, quinoa, and fishandshellfish.

{MENUGAMEPLAN}

Onedayinadvance:•Preparethesoyandchilemarinade.Storage:refrigerator•Preparethespicyyellowchilesauceforthechicken.Storage:refrigerator•Preparethehuancainasauceforthepotatoes.Storage:refrigerator

Thenightbefore:•PreparetheCrab,Avocado&PotatoTerrine.Storage:refrigerator•PreparetheMushroomCeviche.Storage:refrigerator•Preparethecevichemarinadeforthefish.Storage:refrigerator•Boilthesweetpotatoes.Storage:refrigerator•Preparethecaramelbasefordessert.Storage:refrigerator•Trimandmarinatethebeef.Storage:refrigerator

Onthemorningof:•Ifyouarecookingthecornintheoven,preparethequinoasaladnow.Storage:refrigerator•Soakthewoodenskewers(ifusing).•Preparetheshrimpceviche.Storage:refrigerator

Twotothreehoursbefore:•Addthefishtothecevichemarinade.Storage:refrigerator

•Addthefishtothecevichemarinade.Storage:refrigerator•Preparethepotatofoilpackets.Storage:roomtemperature•Threadthechickenandbeefontotheskewers.Storage:refrigerator

Inthehourbefore(setup):•Setupthebeveragebarwithpiscosouringredients.•Setupthecevichebarserv;ingarea—butwaituntilthelastminutetobringouttheceviches.•Setout:GrilledCorn&QuinoaSaladSpicyyellowchilesauceHuancainasauce

Asyoureventunfolds:•Prepareandservethepiscosours.•Setoutthecrabterrine.•Setouttheceviches.•Servethestarters.•Ifyouaregrillingthecornforthequinoasalad,doitnow.•Roastandcharthepotatoes.•Seasonthechicken.•Grillthechickenandbeefskewers.•Servethemaincourses.•Preparethemeringuefordessert.•Servedessert.

PISCOSOUR

Thereisalong-standingdisputebetweenPeruandChileoverwhichcountry “owns” the pisco sour. And to complicate matters more,each country produces its own distinct style of pisco, which willimpart its particular flavor to the cocktail. Therefore, even whenyou’reusingthesamerecipe,thetasteofyourpiscosourwillvarygreatlydependingonwhichcountry’spiscoyouused.Whether it’smade in the high Andes or Tierra del Fuego, raw egg white isalways used to achieve the pisco sour’s frothy texture.Makes1cocktail

Ice2½ouncespisco1ouncelimejuice(from1to2limes)½ouncesimplesyrup1eggwhite

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add all the ingredients. Vigorouslyshake for 20 to 25 seconds and strain into a chilled martini or shortrocksglass.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

PiscoPiscoisadistilledspiritmadefromgrapes.Itisnamedafter the Peruvian city of Pisco, one of the placeswhere itwasfirstproduced.SimplesyrupSimplesyrupisamixtureofequalpartswaterand sugar that has been heated until the sugar melts. It

makesagreatsweetenerforbeverages—especiallycoldones—sincethesugarcrystalsarealreadydissolvedandwillnotlend a gritty texture to the drink. I tend tomake about 2cups of it at a time, using 2 cups of sugar and 2 cups ofwaterheated ina saucepanovermediumheat.Thisway, Ialwayshave someonhand—it keeps for about 1month intherefrigerator.

FRESHFISHCEVICHEwithGinger&Chile

{CEVICHEDEPESCADO}

Ceviche is arguably Peru’s national dish. It is so popular thatthroughout the country you will find cevicherias—restaurants thatspecialize in ceviche. In these restaurants youwill see all typesoffish and shellfish swimming in an assortment of marinadesconsistingoflimejuice,aromaticvegetables,andotheringredients.I’ve taken inspiration from those ceviche bars and come up withthreecevichesthataregreattoserveasatrio.There’sevenonethatvegetarians or those who do not like raw fish should findirresistible.Serves10

2poundsmildwhitefish(suchasseabass,mahi-mahi,halibut,ortilapia),skinnedandthinlyslicedlengthwiseandthencutcrosswise(piecesshouldmeasureabout¼thickinchby1inchlong)2cupslimejuice(from24limes)

1(4-inch)piecefreshginger,peeledandgrated1Peruvianhotpepper(ajiamarillo)orhabanerochile,stemmedandfinelychopped½redonion,halvedandslicedverythinly

1cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,choppedSalt2sweetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto1-inchcubes1cupcornnuts

MARINATE THE FISH Place the fish, lime juice, ginger, chile, onion, cilantro,and1teaspoonofsaltinabowlandallowtomarinatefor30minutesto1 hour. There should be enough lime juice that you can completelysubmergethefish,whichshouldstillhavesomeroomtomovearoundabitintheliquid.Thiswillallowtheacidinthelimetofullyandevenly

penetratethefish.Iliketoplaceapieceofplasticwraponthesurfaceofthecevichetoassurethatthefishremainssubmerged.

BOIL THE SWEETPOTATOESBringapotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Addthesweetpotatoes and cook until fork tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and setaside.

GARNISHANDSERVEIfyou’reservingthecevicheindividually,placeacoupleofpiecesofsweetpotatointhebottomofeachdishorglass,topwithahelpingof the ceviche,anddrizzle themarinating liquidover the fish.Garnishwithasprinklingofcornnuts.Alternatively,ifyou’reservingthecevicheonalargeplatter,placethesweet potato on one side of the platter, drizzle the marinating liquidoverthefish,andsprinklethecornnutsoverit.

DON’TFORGETTHELECHEDETIGRE

The juice that is left on a dish after one eats ceviche isreferred toas lechede tigre, or tiger’smilk. It canbedrunkstraightfromthedish(bringingthedishuptoone’smouthisnotconsideredbadmanners),oritcanbeconsumedthenextday, spiked with a shot of pisco or vodka, as a hangoverremedy.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Peruvian chiles Chiles fromPeru are very distinctive. Theaji amarillo and rocoto are two of the most popular.Unfortunately, they are not easily obtained in the UnitedStates. Habanero chiles are a good substitute; however,habanerosarehotter,sofeelfreetouseasmallerquantity—or substitute your favorite chile. While you can tame the

heat of the chile by removing its veins and seeds, do noteliminateitentirelyfromtherecipe,asitaddsafruityflavorthatwillbemissedifitisn’tused.Sweet potato Boiled sweet potato is often served withceviche. Its soft texture and sweet flavor complement thebrightacidofthecevichemarinade.Ialsofindthatithelpstobalancetheheatfromthechiles.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Peruviancevicheisnotmarinatedfortoolong.PossiblyasaresultoftheJapaneseinfluenceinPeru,itisoftenservedassoonastheingredientsaremixed,keepingthefishmoreontherawside,sashimistyle.You can marinate the fish for as long as you like toachievethetextureandflavorofyourpreference.However,ifyouwouldliketopreparethisaheadoftime,simplystorethe uncut fish, prepared lime juice marinade, and boiledsweet potato in separate airtight containers in therefrigerator(youcandothisthenightbeforeserving).Slicethefishandcombineitwiththemarinadeshortlybeforeyouarereadytoserve.

MUSHROOMCEVICHE{CEVICHEDEHONGO}

The mushrooms in this untraditional yet ingenious ceviche aremeatyenoughtostanduptotheacidicmarinadewithoutbreakingapart, yet they absorb flavors like little sponges. This tangy andflavorfuldishcanbeservedasanappetizerorusedasasidedish.Andthisvegetarian-friendlydishisperfectforoutdoorentertaining,since you do not have to worry about it getting too warm andbecomingunsafetoeat.Serves10

2½poundswhitebuttonmushrooms,stemsremoved,cutintoquartersoreighths(dependingonsize)1cuplimejuice(fromabout12limes)

½cuporangejuice(from1to2oranges)½redonion,halvedandslicedverythin1redbellpepper,cored,seeded,andfinelydiced1cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,chopped,plusextrasprigsforgarnish2teaspoonssalt

Blackpepper

MARINATE THE MUSHROOMS Combine all the ingredients except the wholecilantrosprigsinalargebowlandallowtomarinateforatleast3hours.

GARNISHANDSERVEPlacethecevicheinalargebowlorplatterandgarnishbytoppingwiththesprigsoffreshcilantro.Serveandenjoy.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Sevilleorangejuice

TECHNIQUE

Marinating the mushrooms The mushrooms require atleast 3 hours of marinating in order for the acid to “cookout”therawmushroomflavorandsoftentheirtexture.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thisdishneedstobemadeinadvance.Youcaneasilymakeit up to 24 hours before serving, and it will maintain itsfreshnessforacoupleofdaysafteritwasprepared.

SHRIMPCEVICHE{CEVICHEDECAMARONES}

I lovethisrecipeforbothitsvibrantcolorsanditsfreshflavors.Ituses tomatoandavocado inaddition to the ingredients found inabasic ceviche, giving it texture and color. It is also very versatile:youcansubstituteanymildwhitefishfortheshrimp.Justkeepinmindthatshrimptakeabitlongerthanfishto“cook”inacid,socutthemarinatingtimeinhalfwhensubstitutingfish.Serves10

2poundslargeshrimp,peeled,deveined,andbutterflied3cupslimejuice(fromabout36limes)1habanerochileor2jalapeñochiles,stemmedandfinelychopped4plumtomatoes,cored,seeded,andchopped½redonion,halvedandslicedverythin1cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,chopped,plusextrasprigsforgarnish2Hassavocados,peeled,pitted,andchopped

2teaspoonssalt

MARINATE THE SHRIMP AND VEGETABLES Place the shrimp, lime juice, chile,tomatoes,onion,andcilantroinalargebowlandtosswell.Coverwithplastic wrap and allow to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2hours.

GARNISH AND SERVE Shortly before serving, toss in the avocados and seasonwiththesalt.Transferthecevichetoaservingplatterandgarnishwiththesprigsofcilantro.Serveandenjoy.

COOKINGNOTES

TECHNIQUES

How tobutterfly shrimpAbutterflied shrimp is a shrimpthathasbeensliced lengthwise.Sometimes,onesideof theshrimp is kept attached; sometimes it is sliced all thewaythrough.For this recipe, theshrimpwillbecutall thewaythrough.First, peel and devein the shrimp. Then put a shrimp onyourcuttingboardandplace the tipofyourknifeblade inthe indentation created on the shrimp’s back by thedeveiningprocess.Slicetheshrimpinhalflengthwise,usingtheindentationasyourguide.Marinating seafood for ceviche There are two things tokeep in mind when preparing ceviche: the size of the fishpieces,andtheamountoflimejuice.Inorderforthefishto“cook”evenly,thefishneedstobeslicedthinsothattheacidfromthelimejuicecanmakeitswaytothecenteroftheflesh.Thelengthofeachpieceisoflessconcern;justmakesureyoukeepthembitesize.Thereshouldbeenoughlimejuicetocompletelycoverthefishandtoallowittomovearoundabitintheliquid.Ifthepieces of fish stick to each other, the acid won’t entirelypenetrate the pieces. Because the amount of juice found infreshlimesvariesconsiderably,alwaysbuyafewmorethanyouthinkyouneed.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thisdishneedstobemadeatleast2hoursinadvance.Youcanprepareitupto8hoursinadvancewithlittleeffectonthequalityofthedish.However,thetomatoesmaybecometootartiftheystayinthemarinadeformorethan8hours.

Crab,Avocado,&PotatoTerrine

CRAB,AVOCADO&POTATOTERRINE

{CAUSALIMEÑA}

I’vealwaysconsideredthisPeruvianclassictheperfectpotatosalad.Creamy mashed potatoes, tangy crabmeat salad, and velvetyavocado are layered to create a stunningly delicious dish that isdeceptively easy to create. Although this combination,which usescrab and avocado, ismy favorite, causas can be layeredwith anynumberofingredients,suchastuna,ceviche,ortomatoes.Serves8

1½poundsYukongoldpotatoesSalt3tablespoonsbutter½cuphalf-and-half¼teaspooncayennepepper1teaspoonturmeric½poundlumpcrabmeat2limes2greenonions,rootstrimmed,whiteandpalegreenpartsthinlysliced

¼cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,finelychopped

2Hassavocados

PREPARE THE POTATOES Peel the potatoes and place them in a medium pot.Coverthepotatoeswithcoldwater,bringtoaboil,add½teaspoonsalt,andcookthepotatoesuntilfork-tender,about20minutes.Drain thepotatoesandplace inamixingbowl.Addthebutter,half-

and-half,cayennepepper,andturmericandmashuntilthepotatoesare

smooth and creamy. Taste for seasoning and add salt if necessary. Setasidetocoolatroomtemperature.

PREPARETHECRABMEATPlacethecrabmeatinabowlandpickthroughitwithyourfingerstoremoveanycartilage.Addthejuiceof1lime,halfofthegreenonion,andthecilantroandtosswell.Tasteforseasoningandaddsaltifnecessary.Setaside.

PREPARETHEAVOCADOSCuttheavocadosinhalfandremovetheseeds.Usingaspoon,scoopoutallofthefleshandplaceitinabowl.Addthejuiceoftheotherlimeandmash.Seasonwithsaltandsetaside.

ASSEMBLETHETERRINECutapieceofplasticwrapthatislongenoughtohangoverthesidesofa9by5-inchloafpan.Placehalftheavocadomixtureintheloafpanandpatitdowntoaneven layer.Create the second layerby spooning thecrabmixtureoverthe avocado and spreading it out. Finish the terrine by layering themashedpotatooverthecrabandsmoothingitout.Fold the plastic wrap over the mashed potato, covering the terrinewell. If the potato is not completely covered, place another sheet ofplasticoverthetopoftheloafpan.Refrigerateforatleast5hours.

GARNISHANDSERVEHaveaservingplatterready.Removetheterrinefromtherefrigerator and open the plasticwrap. Invert the platter over the loafpanandflipbothoversothepanisnowupsidedownontopofthedish.Carefullyliftofftheloafpanandpeelofftheplasticwrap.Garnish by sprinkling the remaining green onion over the terrine.Gentlyslice the terrinecrosswise,beingcareful toavoidcrumbling thecrablayer.Ifinditbesttousealongserratedknifeforthisandslowlycutthroughtheterrineusingasawingmotion.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Potatoes I likeusingYukongoldpotatoes for theirbuttery

flavorandcreamytexture.Foramoredramaticpresentation,substitutepurplepotatoesandeliminatetheturmeric.

TECHNIQUE

BoilingpotatoesWhenboilingpotatoes,youwanttoplacethem in cold water and then bring the pot to a boil. Thisensures that the potato cooks evenly: otherwise the insidewillstillberawbythetimetheouterlayeriscooked.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Theterrinemustbepreparedatleast5hoursinadvanceandcanbemadeupto1dayinadvance.

Soy-&Chile-MarinatedBeefSkewers

SOY-&CHILE-MARINATEDBEEFSKEWERS

{ANTICUCHOS}

WhenIthinkofstreetfood,Iimmediatelythinkofcharredpiecesofmarinatedmeateatenstraightoff theskewer. Iconsideranticuchos(ahn-tee-COO-chos) the quintessential Latin American street food.Thesehighlyseasonedgrilledbeefskewersarefoundinstreetcartsthroughout theAndean region, andwhile anticuchos canbemadefromany typeofmeat, thosemade frombeefhearts are themostpopular. For this recipe, however, I decided to go a bit moremainstreamanduseflanksteakinstead.Serves8

SoyMarinade¾cupsoysauce⅓cuphoney9clovesgarlic,mashed2tablespoonsgroundcumin1tablespooncrushedredpepperflakes3poundsflanksteak,trimmedofexcessfat2limes,quartered

SLICEANDMARINATETHEBEEFPlaceallthemarinadeingredientsinalargebowlandmixuntilwellcombined.Setaside.Slice the beef against the grain into long strips about½ inch thick.

Placethebeefstripsinthebowlwiththemarinadeandtossuntilallthebeef is well coated. Cover and allow to marinate, refrigerated, for atleast1hour.

SKEWER AND GRILL THE BEEF Soak 24 wooden skewers by submerging themcompletelyinwaterfor20minutes.

Removethebeeffromthemarinadeandthread2piecesontoasoakedskewer.Starting1inchfromthebottomofastripofmeatandtreatingthe skewer like a needle, make “stitches” in the meat, weaving theskewerinandoutevery2inchesorso.Heatyourgrilltothehighestsettingandclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Grilltheskewersfor3to4minutesperside.Lowerthe lid ifdesired,but justkeep inmind thatbecause thebeef is slicedthinitwillcookquickly.

SERVETransferthebeefskewerstoaservingplatterandgarnishwiththelimewedges.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUE

Why soakwooden skewers?Wooden skewers need to besoakedforabout20minutestopreventthemfromcatchingfire—althoughtheymaystillsmolderandsmoke.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

You can prepare themarinade a day in advance and leavethebeefmarinatingforseveralhours.

CHICKENSKEWERSwithSpicyYellowChileSauce

{AJIDEGALLINA}

Aji de gallina (ah-HEE-deh-gah-YEE-nah) is one of Peru’s mostemblematicdishes.Traditionally,thedishismadebystewingthenshreddingawholechickenandtossingthemeatintheyellowchilesauce.ThechilesauceismadewiththePeruvianchileajiamarilloand other aromatics, which are blended with a bit of evaporatedmilk.Thisspicy-hotandflavorfulsauceissodelicious,versatile,andeasy to prepare that I’ve oftenwonderedwhy it’s not pairedwithothermeats.SoIreworkedthisclassicbygrillingskeweredchickenbreastmeatandservingthesauceontheside,whichgivesyoutheoptionofusingitwithothergrilledmeatsandseafood.Serves8

SpicyYellowChileSauce2tablespoonsvegetableoil3clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed1onion,chopped1serranoorhabanerochile,stemmedandchopped2teaspoonsturmericSalt½cupevaporatedmilk¼cupwalnutpieces1lime

2poundsskinless,bonelesschickenbreasts¼cupvegetableoilSaltandblackpepper3limes,cutintowedges

SOAKTHESKEWERSSoak24woodenskewersbysubmergingthemcompletelyinwaterfor20minutes.

PREPARETHESAUCEPuttheoilandgarlicinamediumsautépanandsetovermedium-high heat. When the garlic begins to sizzle (after about 40seconds), add the onion, chile, turmeric, and ½ teaspoon of salt andsautéuntilthevegetablesbecomelimpandtranslucent,about5minutes.Transfer the sautéedvegetables toablenderandadd theevaporatedmilkandwalnuts.Pureeuntilsmooth.Addthejuiceof1limeandtasteforseasoning.Setaside.

SLICE, SEASON, AND SKEWER THE CHICKEN Slice the chicken against the grain intolong strips, each about 1 inch thick. Drizzle with vegetable oil andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Removetheskewersfromthewaterandthreadthechickenstripsontotheskewers.Starting1inchfromthebottomofeachstripandtreatingthe skewer like a needle, make “stitches” in the meat, weaving theskewerinandoutevery2inchesorso.

GRILL THE CHICKENHeatyourgrill tohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwitha longpairof tongs.Place the skewerson thegrill, lower the lid, andcook for 7 minutes, or until the bottom of the chicken develops grillmarksand turnsgoldenbrown.Turn the skewersover.Leaving the lidopen,grillforanother7minutesoruntilthechickeniscookedthrough.

SERVEPlace thegrilledchickenskewersonaservingplatterandgarnishwith limewedges.Youcandrizzleyellowchilesauceover theskewersorallowyourgueststodosothemselves.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTS

Chiles The Peruvian yellow chile (aji amarillo) istraditionallyusedinthisrecipe.However,sincetheyarenotalwaysreadilyavailable,Iamsubstitutingaserranochileorhabanerochileinitsplace.Althoughit’sstillplentyhot,theserrano is a bit milder than the habanero; both are hotterthantheajiamarillo.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The saucecanbepreparedaday inadvanceandwill keeprefrigeratedinanairtightcontainerforaboutaweek.Thechickencanbeskeweredseveralhoursinadvance,butwait until right before grilling to season it with salt andpepper.

RoastedPotatoeswithHuancainaSauce

ROASTEDPOTATOESwithHuancainaSauce

{PAPASALAHUANCAINA}

Although the sauce isnamedafterHuancayo, thecapitalofPeru’scentral highlands, this potato dish has come to represent classicPeruvian home cooking and is enjoyed all over the country.Traditionally, the sauce isused to smotherboiledpotatoes. I haveadded my own twist to this classic, roasting the potatoes in foilpacketsonthegrilltogivethemsometexture.Thistangy,creamy,spicy sauce can be used to accompany many other dishes, but itpairsespeciallywellwithseafood.Serves8

Sauce2tablespoonsvegetableoil2clovesgarlic,chopped1smallonion,chopped1serranochile,stemmedandchopped2teaspoonsturmericSalt¼cupplus2tablespoonsevaporatedmilk4ouncesgoatcheese1hard-boiledegg,peeledandchopped

3poundssmallredpotatoes,cutintoquarters½cupoliveoilSaltandblackpepper

PREPARE THE SAUCE Place the oil and garlic in amedium sauté pan and setovermedium-highheat.Whenthegarlicbeginstosizzle(afterabout40

seconds), add the onion, chile, turmeric, and ½ teaspoon of salt andsautéuntilthevegetablesbecomelimpandtranslucent,about5minutes.Transfer the sautéedvegetables toablenderandadd theevaporatedmilk,goatcheese,andegg.Pureeuntilsmooth.Tasteforseasoningandadd more salt if necessary. The sauce should have the consistency ofcreamy salad dressing. If you need to thin it out, add a bit moreevaporatedmilk.Setaside.

PREPARE FOIL PACKETS OF POTATOESCutapieceof foilabout14 inches in lengthandplace¼ofthepotatoesinitscenter.Drizzle2tablespoonsofoliveoilontothepotatoesandtossgentlytocoatwell.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Createasquarepacketbybringingthelongsidesofthefoiluptowardthecenterandfoldingtheedgesoveracoupleoftimestocreateaseal.Bringtheendsuptowardsthecenterandsealbycrimpingthefoilshut.Repeattheprocessthreetimestoendupwithatotaloffourpackets.

ROASTTHEPOTATOESHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Placethepotatopacketsonthegrillshelfandclosethelid.Allowthepotatoestoroastfor40minutes,oruntiltender.Itestthisbyskeweringthetipofathinknifethroughthefoilandintoapotato.IfIdon’tmeetresistance,thepotatoesareready.Ifyoudonothaveagrillshelf,lowertheheattomediumandplacethepacketsdirectlyonthegrates.

CHARTHEPOTATOESIncreasethegrillheattohigh(550°F).Placethepacketsdirectlyonthegrates,closethelid,andallowtocookfor15minutestocharthebottomofthepotatoes.Removethepacketsfromthegrillandsetasidetocool.

SERVEOpenthepackets,beingcarefulnottoburnyourselfwiththesteam,and transfer thepotatoes to a servingbowl.Youmayneed topeel offsomeofthepotatoesthathavebecomestuckandcharredtothefoil.(Ifthe potatoes have not developed a charred crust, close the foil packetandreturntothegrilluntilacrustdevelops.)Traditionally,thisdishis

servedwiththesaucealreadydrizzledoverthepotatoes.However,youmaywanttoservethesauceontheside,allowingyourgueststoservethemselves.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

ChilesThePeruvianyellowchileajiamarilloistraditionallyusedtomakethissaucespicyhot.However,sincethesearenot always readily available, I am substituting a serranochileinitsplace.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The sauce can be made a day in advance and it keeps,refrigerated, for a few days. The potato packets can beassembled a few hours in advance and kept at roomtemperature.

GrilledCornandQuinoaSalad

GRILLEDCORNANDQUINOASALAD

Quinoa has been a staple grain in Peru for centuries. Highlynutritious,itisacompleteproteinthatishighinironandfiber,andit has a very mild flavor that complements anything it is pairedwith.And,whenyouconsiderthatitcooksinonly15minutes,youunderstandwhyit’scalledthe“goldoftheIncas.”Serves8to10

5earscorn,husksonbutsilksremoved4greenonions,rootsandtopstrimmed2cupsquinoa,wellrinsed3¼cupswaterSalt4plumtomatoes,cored,seeded,anddiced1cuplightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,choppedJuiceof3limes(about¼cup)2tablespoonsoliveoilBlackpepper

SOAK THE CORNPlace thecorn ina largestockpot,orothercontainer largeenoughtoholdalltheears,andfillitwithwater.Ifyoudonothaveasufficientlylargecontainer,useyourkitchensink.Allowthecorntosoakfor20minutes.Removefromthewater,shake,

andtightlysqueezethehusksagainstthekernelsofcorntogetridofanyexcesswater.

GRILL THE CORN Heat your grill to high (550°F) and close the lid.Wait atleast15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.(OrseeCookingNotesfor instructionsonroastingthecorninanoven.)Placethecornonthegrillrack,closethelid,andgrillfor5

minutes.Turnthecornoverandgrillforanother5minuteswiththelidclosed.Removefromthegrillandletrestfor5moreminutes.

PULLBACKTHEHUSKSANDCHARTHECORNTakethegrilledearsofcornandpullbackthehusks,exposingthekernels.Donotremovethehusks.Ifpossible,tiethehusksback(seeCookingNotesforGrilledCornontheCob).Increase the grill temperature to high (550°F). Place a sheet ofaluminumfoilononesideof thehotgrill.Place thepulled-backhusksoverthefoil,allowingtheexposedkernelstositonthegrillgrates.(Thisisdonesothehusksdon’tburnbeforethecorncanchar.)Closethegrilllidandallowthekernels tocharforabout5minutesperside,oruntiltheybecomedarkandgoldenbrownonallsides.Atthispoint,addthegreen onions to the grill and char on all sides, about 8minutes total.Removethecornandgreenonionsfromthegrillandsetaside.

PREPARETHEQUINOAPutthequinoa,water,and1teaspoonsaltinasaucepan.Bringtoaboil,cover,andlowertoasimmer.Cookfor15minutes.Uncoverandcheckifthequinoaisreadybytiltingthepantothesidetomakesureall thewaterhasbeenabsorbed. Ifnot,continuecookingforafewminutesmore.Transferthecookedquinoatoalargebowlandallowtocoolatroomtemperature.

TOSS AND DRESS THE SALAD AND SERVECut thecornkernelsoff thecobs, slice thegrilledgreenonions,andaddboth to thequinoa.Toss in the tomatoesandcilantroandmixwell.Drizzlethe limejuiceandoliveoiloverthesaladandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Tosswellbeforeserving.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUES

Cooking quinoa Quinoa should always be rinsed wellundercoldrunningwaterbeforeit’scooked;otherwiseitwillhavearatherbittertaste.Package instructions for preparing quinoa state that you

should use 2 cups of liquid to 1 cup of quinoa. I find thisratioresultsinasoggytexturethatdoesnotworkwellinagrain salad. Therefore, this recipe uses a proportion ofapproximately1½cupsofliquidto1cupofgraininordertoendupwith a grain thatwill stay intactwhen tossedwiththevinaigretteandvegetables.Roasting the corn in the oven This recipe can easily bemadeintheovenusingcornkernelsthathavebeenremovedfromthecob,or3cupsoffrozencornthathasbeenthawed.Preheatyourovento400ºF.Roastthecorninasinglelayeronabakingsheetfor20minutes,thenallowtorestoutsidetheovenforanother5minutes.Ifyoulike,thegreenonionscanjustbeleftraworcanberoastedwiththecorn.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

This recipe can bemade a day in advance and kept in anairtight container in the refrigerator. Bring to roomtemperaturebeforeserving.

PERUVIANCARAMELMERINGUE

{SUSPIRODELIMEÑA}

Composed of light dollops of meringue left to float atop a sweetliquid base, suspiro de limeña is a cousin of the floating islanddessert.Thedish,whosenameliterallytranslatesto“theladyfromLima sighs,” is one of Peru’smost popular desserts andwillmakeany man or woman sigh with satisfaction upon tasting it.Serves8to10

3eggs,separated2teaspoonsvanillaextract½cup(7½ounces,orhalfacan)sweetenedcondensedmilk1(12-ounce)canevaporatedmilkPinchofsalt2tablespoonsconfectioners’sugar2tablespoonsportwineGroundcinnamon,fordusting

PREPARE THEBASEBeattheeggyolksinasmallbowlwithaforkuntil lightyellowincolor.Mixinthevanilla.Setaside.Placethecondensedmilkandevaporatedmilkinasaucepanandstir

well to fully combine. Set the panover highheat andbring to a boil.Immediately lower to a simmer and cook for 20minutes, occasionallystirringwitharubberspatulaandmakingsuretoscrapethebottomofthepan.Youwillnoticethemilkthickeningalongthewallsofthepan.Scrape it off and stir it into themilkmixture; itwill contribute to thethickeningofthebase.Themixture is readywhenthebottomof thepancaneasilybeseen

when stirring themilk—it should not immediately flow back into the

furrow made by the spatula. At this point the mixture will havedarkenedtoadeepcaramelcolor.

TEMPERTHEEGGSRemovethepanfromtheheat.Addasmallamount(about¼ cup) of the hotmilkmixture to the beaten egg yolks and stir untilcombined. Then add another¼ cup of themilk to the yolks. You aremixing the egg andmilk slowly to keep the eggs from cooking whenthey come in contact with the hot milk. When the egg mixture feelswarmtothetouch,addittothepanholdingtheremainingmilkandstirtocombinewell.

THICKEN THE BASE Set the pan over medium heat and cook for 2 minutes,whilestirring,toallowthemixturetothickenabitmore.Atthispointthecustardshouldhavetheconsistencyofathinpudding.Removefromthe heat and set aside. The custard will thicken more as it cools.Ultimately,itshouldhavetheviscosityofacaramelsauce.

PREPARE THE MERINGUEUsing a standmixerwith thewhisk attachment or ahandheldelectricmixer,beattheeggwhitesatmedium-highspeeduntilfrothy, about 2 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar and continuebeating on high until the eggwhites form stiff peaks, 4 to 6minutes,dependingonyourmixer.

SERVETHEDESSERTToservethedessertfamilystyle,pourthethickenedbaseinto a shallow servingbowl.Topwithdollopsofmeringueand lightlydrizzle the port wine over all. Garnish with a dusting of groundcinnamon This dessert looks stunning when served in individualportions. The trick is to use a glass vessel, such as a wine goblet ormartini glass. For this presentation, pour two large spoonfuls of thecustard base into the glass and top with a large “sigh,” or dollop, ofmeringue. Finishwith a drizzle of port wine and a dusting of groundcinnamon.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUE

TemperingeggsThistechniqueisusedinordertoaddeggsto hot or warm mixtures without the eggs cooking in theprocess.Justaddsmallamountsofthehotliquidtotheeggsto slowly increase the temperature of the eggs. As soon asthe eggs feelwarm to the touch, they are safe to add to awarmliquid.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thebasecanbemadeadayinadvanceandkeptrefrigeratedin an airtight container. The meringue should be madeshortly before serving in order to maintain its full volumeandlighttexture.

PatagonianAsado

Drinks

Beer

RusticRedWine

Starters

Olives,Cheese&SpanishChorizo/PicaditadeQuesoyChorizo

GrilledChorizowithCrustyBread/Choripan

MainCourse

Bounty of Wood-Smoked Meats: Boneless Short Ribs, Skirt Steak,Chicken/Parrillada:TiradeAsado,Entraña,Pollo

Sides

ArugulaSaladwithCrunchyCharredPotatoes

GrilledEndive,GreenOnions&Tomatoes

Dessert

DulcedeLecheFlan

Patagonia is the southernmost portion of South America—it’s locatedmostly in Argentina, but also extends into Chile. The cuisine of theregionisverysimilartothatofArgentina;itishighlyfocusedongrilledmeats and game and locally sourced vegetables like green onions,potatoes, and carrots that grow well in its cold climate. Its ruggedoutdoor culture inspires outdoor cooking methods, especially charcoalgrillingandwoodsmoking,althoughopenspitroastingisstillthetime-honoredfavorite.WinemakingisabourgeoningindustryinthisareaofSouthAmerica,whichmanyrefertoastheendoftheworld.Merlotandchardonnay have been found to grow well in this region, but manylocalsstillfavorArgentina’ssignaturegrape,malbec.

{MENUGAMEPLAN}

Thenightbefore:•PreparetheDulcedeLecheFlan.Storage:refrigerator

Onthemorningof:•Soakthewoodchips.

Twotothreehoursbefore:•PreparethetrayofOlives,Cheese&SpanishChorizo.Storage:roomtemperature•Preparefoilpacketsofpotatoesforthesalad.Storage:roomtemperature•Trimandportionthemeats.Storage:refrigerator•Preparethesaladdressing.Storage:roomtemperature•Washandtrimtheendives,greenonions,andtomatoes.Coverwithadamptowel.Storage:roomtemperature

Inthehourbefore(setup):•Setupthebeveragebarwithbeerandwine.•SetoutthechorizoandpreparethebreadforGrilledChorizowithCrustyBread.•Prepare3foilpacketsofwoodchips.•Setout:Olives,Cheese&SpanishChorizo

Olives,Cheese&SpanishChorizo

Asyoureventunfolds:•Grillthechorizoandbread.•Servethestarters.•Roastthepotatoes.•Grilltheendive,greenonions,andtomatoes.•Charthepotatoes.•Placethefoilpacketsofwoodchipsinthegrilltobeginsmoking.•Grill/smokethemeats.•Tossthesaladwiththecharredpotatoesanddressing.•Servethemaincoursesandsides.•Servedessert.

Olives,Cheese&SpanishChorizo

OLIVES,CHEESE&SPANISHCHORIZO

{PICADITADEQUESOYCHORIZO}

The easiest things are often overlooked. Few starters are moreinviting thana trayofcheese,chorizo,andolives,andeven fewerareeasier toprepare.Anofferingofpicadita (littlepickings)andaglass of robust red wine is the way many meals begin in theSouthern Cone, the triangular region in the southernmost tip ofSouthAmericamadeupofChile,Argentina,andUruguay.Serves8

1(½-pound)wedgeParmesancheese½poundprovolonecheese,sliced1poundSpanishchorizo,slicedverythin1cupmixedolives

ASSEMBLE THE TRAY AND SERVE Place the cheeses and the chorizo on a cheeseboardorservingtray.Includeahardcheeseknife,withawedge-shapedblade,tochipoffchunksoftheParmesan.Placetheolivesinaseparatesmallbowlandsetasmallerdishnextto

ittocollectthepits.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

SpanishchorizoBecausemostSpanishchorizosaresmokedand cured, they can be eaten straight from the package,makingthemgreatsnackingsausages(freshchorizoneedstobecookedfirst).Thisporksausageis flavoredwithSpanishpaprika and garlic, giving it its characteristic reddish colorandhighlyspicedflavor.

Provolone Provolone is an Italian cow’s milk cheese thatcomes in sharpandmildvarieties. Iprefer thepiquancyofsharpprovolone.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Because the cheese and chorizo are best eaten at roomtemperature, I recommend you assemble the tray a fewhours before serving and cover the tray with plastic wrapwhileyouarewaitingtoserve.

GRILLEDCHORIZOSKEWERSwithCrustyBread

{CHORIPAN}

Choripan,shortforchorizo-pan(panisSpanishforbread),issimplygrilledfreshchorizosausageservedwithapieceofbread.Assoonasthechorizoisoffthegrill,Isliceitontopofthecrustybreadtocollectanyjuicethatmayspilloutduringtheslicing,thenIstabaskewerinitandhanditovertoaguest.IloveSpanishchorizowithitssmokedpaprikaflavor,butuseyourfavoritefreshsausageinthisdish. Pairedwith a glass of redwine, it’s the perfect starter for aleisurelyPatagoniancookout.Serves8

1baguetteOliveoilSaltandblackpepper1½poundsfreshchorizo

PREPARETHEBREADSlicethebreadlengthwiseinto2pieces.Drizzleoliveoiloverthecutsideofeachhalfandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Setaside.

GRILLTHECHORIZOHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Place the chorizo directly on the grill and cook for 15minutes per

side.Thesausageshouldlooksomewhatcharred.Removefromthegrillandsetaside.

GRILL THE BREADPlace thebreadcut sidedownon thegrillandcook for5minutes,oruntilthebreaddevelopsgrillmarksandturnsgoldenbrown.

SERVEPlacethechorizoononehalfofthegrilledbreadandinsertwoodenskewers3inchesapartfromeachother.Slicethechorizoinbetweentheskewers, creating 3-inch-long skewered pieces of chorizo and bread.Placeonaplatterandallowyourgueststohelpthemselves.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

ChorizoChorizoisaporksausagecharacterizedbyitsredcolor.Thishighly seasonedsausageowes its color toeithersmokedpaprikaor chilepeppers.Freshchorizo is availableatmanymarkets,butyoucansubstitutespicyItaliansausageifyoulike.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Youcanprepare thebreadwith theoil and seasonings1hourinadvance.However,itisbesttogrillthechorizoandbread right before serving tomaintain the dish’s juicy andcrispynature.

BonelessShortRibs,SkirtSteak,andChicken

BOUNTYOFWOOD-SMOKEDMEATS:BonelessShortRibs,SkirtSteak,Chicken

{PARRILLADA:TIRADEASADO,ENTRAÑA,POLLO}

Formany,includingmyself,grillingoverawoodfireisasgoodasitgets. I don’t know if it’s theprimitive satisfactionof cookingoverflames, the seductive aroma of the charring wood, or the deep,smoky flavor that is infused into the meats, but the appeal isundeniable.InthePatagoniancountryside,woodfiregrillingispartofawayoflife.Forthoseofusoutsidethatregion,unfortunately,itcan be logistically tricky. Luckily, usingwood chips over a gas orcharcoal firecangiveusasemblanceof thereal thing. Iknowit’snotthesameascookingoversmokylogsatanArgentineranch,butuntil you canmake it down there, this is an easy and convenientoption.Serves8

2poundsboneless,skinlesschickenbreasts2poundsskirtsteak,trimmedofexcessfat2poundsbonelessbeefshortribsSaltandblackpepper

SOAK THE WOOD CHIPS Place 3 handfuls ofwood chips in a bowl filledwithwater and push them under the water a few times to help start thesoakingprocess.Allowthechipstosoakfor1hour,thendrain.

PREPAREFOILPACKETSOFCHIPSANDSTARTSMOKINGTHEWOODCutthree16-inchsquaresof foil and place a handful of the soakedwood chips in the center ofeach,makingsuretospreadthechipsoutabit.Foldthesidesofthefoiloverthetop,creatingpacketsthataresealedtightly.Usingthetipofasharpknife,makesmallslitsalloverthetopofthefoilpacket.

Place the foil packets under the grill grates. If possible, place thepacketssotheywillnotbesittingdirectlyunderthemeat(forexample,atthebackofthegrill).Turnthegrillontothehighestsetting,closethelid,andwaitforthewoodtobegintosmoke.Itshouldtakeabout10to15minutesbutwillvarywithyourgrill.Youshouldseesmokeescapingfromthesidesofthegrillwhenit’sready.

SEASON AND GRILL THE MEATS Oil the grill grates with a vegetable oil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Season the meats with salt and pepper and place the meats on thegrill.Closethelidandlowertheheattomedium-high.Cookthemeatsfor6minutesundisturbed,withthe lidclosedinordertomaintainthesmokeinthegrill.Atthispoint, themeatsshouldhavedevelopedgrillmarks and a brown or tan hue from the smoke. Turn themeats over,close the lid, and cook for another 6 minutes. Take the internaltemperature of themeats and remove from the grillwhen the chickenregisters160°Fandthebeef130°Fformedium-rare,orcontinuecookinguntilyoureachyourdesiredlevelofdoneness(refertothischart).

SERVEServeallthecutsofmeatonalargetray,preferablyawoodenoneequippedwithasharpknifeandcarvingfork,soguestscansliceofftheirownpiecesofmeat.

COOKINGNOTESEQUIPMENT

Wood chips Convenient and easy to use, these smallpiecesofwoodaregreatforaddingasmokyflavortogrilledmeats,fish,andvegetables.In order to prevent the chips from burning and turningyourfoodbitter,soakthembeforeusing. Ifyourgrillhasasmoker or if you are using a grill-top smoker, read thedirections before using; otherwise follow the directions intherecipeforcreatingfoilpacketsofchipsforsmoking.I tend to use hickory, apple, or cherrywood chips. The

hickory gives themeat amore intense smoky flavor,whilethecherryandappleareabitmilder.Aluminumfoil It’sbest touseheavy-dutyaluminumfoilfor the packets; however, you can substitute two layers ofregularfoil.

TECHNIQUE

Flare-ups Flare-ups tend to occur when you are grillingfattycutsofmeat(liketheshortribsinthisrecipe)overhighheat,orwhenoilfromamarinadedripsintotheflames.Do not try to extinguish a flare-upwith water—it won’twork.It’sbesttomoveyourmeatawayfromtheflamesandlet the fireburnouton itsown—even if youhave to stacksome of the meat on top of other pieces that are situatedawayfromtheflare-up.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thefoilpacketscanbemadeafewhoursinadvance.

ArugulaSaladwithCrunchyCharredPotatoes

ARUGULASALADwithCrunchyCharredPotatoes

ThisiswhatIcallpotatosalad!Theinspirationforthisdishcomesfrom the vegetables that are charred on coals in Patagoniancookouts. Small red potatoes and sweet shallots are roasted withrosemaryandthencharredonthegrill.Thesearethentossedwithfresh peppery arugula and drizzled with a tangy red winevinaigrette.ThissaladdisappearsfasteverytimeIserveit.Serves8

3poundssmallredpotatoes,quartered4shallots,peeledandquarteredthroughtherootend4sprigsrosemarySaltandblackpepper½cupoliveoil½cupredwinevinegar2teaspoonsDijonmustard½cupextra-virginoliveoil4cupsarugula,stemmed,washed,anddried

PREPAREFOILPACKETSCutapieceoffoilabout14inchesinlengthandplace¼ofthepotatoesand4shallotquartersinitscenter.Sprinkletheleavesofone sprig of rosemary over the vegetables and season with salt andpepper.Drizzle2tablespoonsofoliveoilontothevegetablesand,usingyourhands,tossthevegetablesgentlytocoatwell.Seal thepacketsbybringing the longsidesof the foilup toward the

center and folding the edges over a couple of times to create a seal.Bringtheendsuptowardthecenterandcrimpthefoilshut.Repeattheprocessthreetimestomakeatotalof4packets.

ROASTTHEPACKETSHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitat

least15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Placethepotatopacketsonthegrillshelfandclosethelid.Allowthepotatoestoroastfor40minutes,oruntiltender.Itestthisbyskeweringthetipofathinknifethroughthefoilandintoapotato.IfIdon’tmeetresistance,thepotatoesareready.Ifyoudonothaveagrillshelf,lowertheheattomediumandplacethepacketsdirectlyonthegrates.

CHARTHEPOTATOESIncreasethegrillheattohigh(550°F).Placethepacketsdirectlyonthegrates,closethelid,andallowtocookfor15minutestocharthebottomofthepotatoes.Openthepackets,beingcarefulnottoburn yourself with the steam, and transfer the potatoes to a servingbowl.Youmadeneedtopeeloffsomeofthepotatoesthathavebecomestuck and charred to the foil. (If the potatoes have not developed acharredcrust,closethefoilpacketandreturntothegrilluntiltheydo.)Removethepacketsfromthegrillandsetaside.

PREPARE THE SALADPlace thevinegar,mustard,and½ teaspoonof salt inasmall bowl and stir until the mustard has blended into the vinegar.Whilestirring,slowlydrizzleintheextra-virginoliveoil.Setaside.Place the arugula in a large salad bowl and toss in the charredvegetables.

SERVE If youareplanningoneating immediatelyafteryou set the saladout,goaheadandtossthesaladwiththedressing.Otherwise,keepthedressingonthesidetopreventthegreensfromwilting,anddressitrightbeforeyoueat.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUES

RemovingleavesfromrosemarysprigsTheeasiestwaytoremovethe leaves fromasprigofrosemary is tostartatthe top of the sprig. Pinch the top of the sprig with yourthumbandindexfingerandgentlyslidethemdowntoward

the bottom of the sprig, going against the growth of theleaves.Theleaveswillpeeloff.Creating an emulsified salad dressing Vinaigrettes aresalad dressingsmade from oil and vinegar.When they areemulsified,theliquidsarecombinedinsuchawaythattheydonot separate. Inorder for this toworkyouneeda thirdingredientthatactsasanemulsifier,keepingthedropletsofthetwoliquidsfromrepellingeachother.Mustardisagreatemulsifier. To use it, simply dissolve the mustard in thevinegaralongwiththesaltandthendrizzleintheoilwhilestirring.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The packets of vegetables can be made a few hours inadvance.Theycanalsoberoastedintheoven(at450ºFfor30minutes) and left, unopened, at room temperature untilyouarereadytocharthemonthegrill.

GRILLEDENDIVE,GREENONIONS&TOMATOES

Not only are grilled vegetables delicious and easy to prepare, butyoualsodon’thave toworryabout themwilting,and theycanbeservedat roomtemperature. I love thiscombinationofvegetables:thevarietyof shapesandcolorsmakes forastunningpresentationwhenpiledonaplatter.Serves8

4Belgianendives,slicedinhalflengthwise2bunchesgreenonions,rootsandtopstrimmed3tomatoes,cutintolargewedgesOliveoilSaltandblackpepper3lemons,halved

PREPARE THE VEGETABLES FOR THE GRILLHeatyourgrill tohigh (550°F)andclosethe lid.Wait at least 15minutes before lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Drizzletheendives,greenonions,andtomatoesliberallywitholiveoil

andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Placetheendivehalvesandgreenonionsonthegrill,makingsureto

set themcrosswiseon thegrates tokeepthemfromfalling through. Inorder to prevent the tomatoes from falling apart, set them skin sidedownonthegrill.Setthelemonhalvescutsidedownonthegrill.Each of the vegetables and fruits will cook at a different pace. The

tomatoesandlemonswillonlycookononeside.Theendivesandgreenonionswillneedtobeflippedandgrilledonbothsides.Removeorflipthe vegetables after they have developed grill marks—you are notnecessarily cooking them all the way through. This will take about 5minutesforthetomatoes,8minutesforthelemons,3minutesperside

forthegreenonions,and5minutespersidefortheendivehalvesDRESSTHE VEGETABLES AND SERVE Place the grilled endives, green onions, andtomatoesonaservingplatterandsqueezethegrilledlemonoverthem.Season with salt and pepper and discard the squeezed lemons beforeserving.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUE

Whygrill the lemons? Lemonshavenatural sugars thatcaramelizewhenheated.Thesimpletechniqueofgrillingthelemon fleshwill add a deeper flavor dimension to its juiceand,ultimately,toyourvegetables.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The vegetables can be grilled in advance and served atroom temperature. Simply wait to squeeze the lemon overthembeforeserving.If youwould like to cook thevegetableswith the rest ofyourmealbutstillwantaheadstart,cutandassemble thevegetables and lemons a few hours in advance. Wait toseasonthemwithsaltandpepperanddrizzlethemwithoiljustbeforeyouarereadytogrillthem.

DULCEDELECHEFLAN

WhileflancanbefoundalloverLatinAmerica,dulcedelecheflanbelongsspecificallytoArgentinaandthePatagonianregion.Withitshintsofcaramelandburntsugar,it’sabitsweeterthanthetypicalflan.Iliketoprepareitinaloafpanandsliceitlikeapoundcake.And making the caramel is actually much easier than you mightthink. Justmake sure youhave a nonstick skillet and a heatproofrubberspatula.Serves10

1cupsugar2cupsstore-boughtorhomemadedulcedeleche(seeCookingNotes,atright)orcaramelsauce3cupsmilk

8eggs,lightlybeaten1teaspoonvanillaextractPinchofsalt

PREPAREAWATERBATHANDPREHEATTHEOVENPlacearectangularroastingpanintheoven and pour in enoughwater to come one-third of theway up thesidesofthepan.Turntheovenonandletitpreheatto350°Fwiththepanstillinit.

MAKE THE CARAMEL Place a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat andsprinklethesugarevenlyalloverthebottomofthepan.Afterabout5minutes,youwillseethesugarbegintomelt.Afewminutesafterthat,partsof themelted sugarwillbegin to turna lightbrowncolor. If thesugar ismeltingunevenly,use a rubber spatula to stir it aroundabit.Whatever clumps develop will eventually melt down—just continuestirring.Onceallofthesugarhasmeltedandturnedalightbrowncolor,and

all the clumps have disappeared, pour the caramel into a 9 by 5-inch

loafpan,preferablyanonstickoneforeasycleanup.Assoonasyoupourthecaramelintothepan,itwillbegintoharden,whichisokay.

MIXTHE FLAN INGREDIENTSPutthedulcedelecheandmilkintoablenderandpuree until well combined. The mixture will take on an even, lightcaramelcolorandbetheconsistencyofathinmilkshake.Pourthemilkmixtureintoabowlandaddtheeggs,vanilla,andsalt.Stirwithawhiskuntileverythingiswellblended.

BAKETHEFLANPourtheflanmixtureoverthecaramelinthebottomofthepan.Carefullyplace thepan in the centerof thewaterbath.Youmayhearthehardenedcaramelcrack—that’sokay.Bake for 1½hours, or until a cake tester, toothpick, or butter knifeinserted in thecenterof the flancomesout clean.Thecenterwill stilljiggleabit.Remove the loaf pan from the oven and allow it to cool at roomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforeplacingit intherefrigeratortochillforatleastanhour,orovernight.Bynowthewater-filledroastingpanintheovenwillhavecooledabit;removeitfromtheovenanddiscardthewater.

UNMOLD THE FLAN Before you unmold the flan, the bottom of the loaf panneeds to be heated to melt the caramel a bit. Turn a burner of yourrangeontomedium-highandletthepansitontherangetopuntilyouhearthecaramelcrack.Movethepanovertheheatafewtimestomakesurebothendsofthepanhavebeenheated.Thisshouldtakeacoupleofminutes.Runa thinknifebladearound the sidesof thepan. Invert a servingplatterovertheloafpanandflipbothover,dislodgingtheflanfromthepan.Someofthecaramelwilldripdownthesidesoftheflanontotheplatter.Agoodamountofcaramelwillhaveremainedinitssolidstateinthepan,whichistobeexpected.Simplydiscardit.

SERVE Slice the flan into 1-inch-thick pieces, place on individual plates,andenjoy.

MAKINGDULCEDELECHE

It is not difficult tomake your own dulce de leche; it justrequirestimeandalittleattention.Placeanunopenedcanofsweetenedcondensedmilkatthebottomofaverylargepotfilledwithwater.(Youwillneedtousetwo14-ouncecanstoget enough dulce de leche to use in this flan recipe; you’llhave a little bit left over.) The can should be completelysubmerged. Bring thewater to a boil, turn the heat down,andallowit tosimmeruncovered for2½hours.Makesurethecan isalwayscoveredwithwaterandaddhotwater tothepotassoonasyouseethewaterlevelskimmingthetopofthecan.Keepingthecansubmergedinwaterensuresthatthemilkwillcookandcaramelizeevenly.Whilethereisnodangerifthewaterleveldropsbelowthetopofthecan,thecanmayburstifthepangoesdry.

Once themilk has finished cooking,move the pot into thesinkandruncoldwaterintoittocoolthecan.Takethecanout of the pot and let it cool at room temperature for 30minutes.Openthecanonlyafterithascooledcompletelyinordertokeepthehotdulcedelechefromburstingout.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

DulcedelecheAsortofthick,spreadablecaramelsauce,dulce de leche is caramelized sweetened milk. Anothercaramelsaucecaneasilybesubstitutedinthisrecipe.

TECHNIQUES

Blendingdulcede lecheandmilkDonotoverlookthisstep. The milk and dulce de leche must be pureed in a

blender until well mixed. Otherwise, the flan will end upwithamarbledappearanceanduneventexture.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Itisbesttopreparetheflaninadvanceinordertoallowittocoolcompletelyintherefrigerator.Theflancanbemadeup to 2 days in advance, cooled in its pan, then wrappedtightly in plastic and refrigerated. Don’t unmold the flanuntilshortlybeforeserving.

ArgentineGrill

DrinkRusticRedWine

StartersGrilledProvoloneCheese/Provoleta

BeefEmpanadasandSausage&MushroomEmpanadas

GrilledRosemaryFlatbread

MainCourseArugula-, Garlic- & Green Onion–Stuffed Flank Steak /Matambre BeefEmpanadasandSausage&MushroomEmpanadas

Condiments&SidesFreshParsleySauce/Chimichurri

Char-GrilledVegetables

SavoryCornPudding/HumitadeOlla

DessertDulcedeLecheCookieCake/AlfajorGigante

When it comes toArgentinecuisine,mostpeople immediately thinkofbeef.Andwithgoodreason:Argentinaisalargecountrywithextensivegrazingland,andArgentinebeefiswildlypopularathomeandfamousabroad for its delicious grass-fed flavor. But Argentine cuisine is alsohighly influenced by European immigrants, most notably those fromItaly,France,Germany,andBritain.Infact,itisasawholelessfieryandmore reminiscent of European cuisines than other Latin Americancuisines.Andbeefisn’ttheonlymeatArgentinesenjoy;lambandpigarealsopopular,asareawiderangeofsausages.OtherimportantelementsofArgentinecookingincludearomaticslikeparsley,freshoregano,andgarlic;sweetcorn;andthethicksweetcaramelized-milksauceknownasdulce de leche. Argentina is an important wine-producing and wine-exporting country,withmalbecas thegrape the industrywas foundedon in this region. However, Argentina is also a large producer andconsumerofcabernetsauvignonandchardonnay.

{MENUGAMEPLAN}

Onedayinadvance:•MaketheDulcedeLecheCookieCake,butdonotdustwithconfectioners’sugaryet.Coverinplasticwrap.Storage:roomtemperature

Thenightbefore:•Prepareandassembletheempanadas,butdonotbakeyet.Wrapwellinplasticwrap.Storage:refrigerator•Preparetheflatbreaddough.Coverinplasticwrap.Storage:refrigerator

Onthemorningof:•Coattheprovoloneinbreadcrumbsandcovertightlyinplasticwrap.Storage:freezer•PreparetheChimichurri.Storage:refrigerator•Cutandpreparethevegetablesforchar-grilling.Coverwithadamptowel.Storage:roomtemperature

Twotothreehoursbefore:•PreparetheSavoryCornPuddingandleaveinacoveredpot.

•PreparetheSavoryCornPuddingandleaveinacoveredpot.Storage:roomtemperature•Assemble,roll,andtietheflanksteak.Wraptightlyinplasticwraporfoil.Storage:refrigerator

Inthehourbefore(setup):•Setupthebeveragebar.•Bringtheempanadastoroomtemperatureandbrushwithegg.•Bringtheflatbreaddoughtoroomtemperature.Preparetherosemarybastingbrush.•DusttheDulcedeLecheCookieCakewithconfectioners’sugar.•Bringoutthefrozenprovolonecheese20minutesbeforeyou’rereadytogrillit.•Setout:Chimichurri

Asyoureventunfolds:•Grilltheempanadas(or,ifyouareshortongrillspace,youcanbakethemintheoven).•Rolloutandgrilltherosemaryflatbread.•Grilltheprovolonecheese.•Servethestarters.•Char-grillthevegetables.•ReheattheSavoryCornPudding.•Grilltheflanksteak.•Servethemaincoursesandsides.•Servedessert.

GRILLEDPROVOLONECHEESE{PROVOLETA}

When I first visitedArgentina, the one dish that stood out amongthe rest was the provoletaI had at the famed Cabaña las Lilas inBuenosAires.Athickslabofprovolonecheesewasgrilleduntil itsexterior was burnt and crisp and its interior was soft and gooey.How they were able to grill the cheese without creating acatastrophic mess all over the grill, much less produce a crispytexture on the outside of the cheese, was mind-blowing to me. Iimmediately asked everyone I could how it was done. Waiters,cooks,friends,acquaintancesalltoldmethesecretwasthecheese,whichcouldonlybefoundinArgentina.Defeated,IacceptedthatIwould have to make special trips for this delicious dish. Futileattemptsatmakingitathomeresultedindisaster.Thenoneday Ihadan“ah-ha!”moment. Iwasgettingready to

gratesomemozzarellatofillsomeempanadas,andIbrieflyplacedthecheeseinthefreezertomakeiteasiertoshred.That’swhenitoccurredtome:freezetheprovolonebeforegrillingit.Itworked!Thisrecipe,whichIcoatwithbreadcrumbslacedwithoregano,hasthesametextureastheoneIhadatCabañalasLilas.Serves8

All-purposeflour1egg½cuppanko(Japanesebreadcrumbs)1tablespoondriedoregano½poundprovolone,in1(1-inch-thick)piece,atroomtemperatureBreadsticks,storeboughtCrackers,storeboughtRosemaryflatbread

COATTHEPROVOLONEANDFREEZEPlacethreeshallowdishessidebyside.Put⅓cupflourinone,crackandlightlybeattheegginanother,andcombinethepankoandoreganointhethird.Dredgetheprovoloneinthefloursothatallthesurfacesarefloured.Thendipitintotheegg,andfinallycoatitwellwiththeoregano-pankomixture,pattingthecrumbsontothecheese.Wrapthecoatedprovolonewithplasticwrapandputinthefreezerfor1hour.

GRILLANDSERVETHEPROVOLONEHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Wait at least 15minutes before continuing.Oil the grill grateswith avegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Remove the cheese from the plastic wrap and place it on the grill,leavingthelidopen.Cookuntilthebottomofthecheesedevelopsgrillmarksandturnsgoldenbrown,about4minutes,andthenflip.Grillforanother 4minutes. Transfer to a cheese board and serve immediatelywithbreadsticks,crackers,androsemaryflatbread.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Panko Also called Japanese breadcrumbs, panko is lighterandflakierthantypicalItalian-stylebreadcrumbs.Iusethemheretogivethecrustofthecheesealight,crispytexture.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The cheese can be coated in the breadcrumb mixture,coveredinplastic,andfrozenseveralhoursbeforegrilling.

BeefEmpanadasandSausage&MushroomEmpanadas

BEEFEMPANADASandSAUSAGE&MUSHROOMEMPANADAS

ManyconsidertheempanadatobethenationaldishofArgentina—itseemstheyareeatenalloverthecountryatallhoursoftheday.These small handheld pies can be filled with any number ofingredients,butthemostpopularfillingisbeef.Thebeefempanadaisdefinitelyacrowdpleaser,butIalsolovethemfilledwithsausageand mushrooms. Both make perfect snacks to serve your guestswhile they enjoy a glass of wine before a meal. Empanadas areusuallybaked,sometimesfried,butnevergrilled—untilnow.Itriedgrilling them as an experiment, and I am so glad I did, as grilledempanadashavenowbecomeastapleatallmyfootball-(orfutból-)watchingparties.Makes16empanadas

EmpanadaDough3cupsall-purposeflour½cupvegetableshortening⅔cupwater1½teaspoonssalt1egg,lightlybeaten

BeefFillingOliveoil1poundbonelesssirloin,finelydicedSalt2tablespoonsbutter1onion,choppedfine1teaspoonsmokedpaprika½teaspoongroundcumin

½teaspoongroundcumin

SausageFilling1tablespoonoliveoil2freshsausagelinks(about½poundtotal),casingsremovedandcrumbled½onion,choppedfine½poundcreminimushrooms,choppedfineSalt

1egg,foreggwash

PREPARE THE DOUGH Place the flour in a largebowl.Combine thevegetableshortening,water,andsalt inasmall saucepanandcookovermediumheatuntiltheshorteninghasmelted,1to2minutes,stirringtocombine.Pour themelted shorteningmixtureover the flour,add theegg,andstirtocombine.Theflourmixturewillbeclumpy,andyoumaynotbeable to stirmuchwith a spoon. Using your hands, begin to work thedoughinthebowluntilyouareabletocreateaball.Thedoughwillbepretty dry and a bit crumbly. Transfer the dough to a lightly flouredwork surfaceandkneadwithyourhands forabout4minutes,oruntilyou feel thedoughbecome smoothandelastic.Thedoughwillnotbesticky.Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and allow it to rest at roomtemperaturefor30minutes.Ifyouarenotgoingtobeusingthedoughfor more than an hour, refrigerate it. (But bring it back to roomtemperaturebeforeyoustart rollingandcutting it.)PREPARE THE BEEF FILLINGPlaceamediumskilletovermedium-highheatandadd1tablespoonofoliveoil.Putabout¼of thedicedbeef in thepan, spreading itacrossthebottomofthepan.Ifyouaddtoomuchmeattothepanorcrowdit,thebeefwillsteamandnotbrown.Seasonwithapinchofsaltandturnthemeatwith a spatula to brownon all sides.As soon as themeat isbrowned,about5minutes,removeitfromthepanwithaslottedspatulaor spoonandplace itonadish.Repeatwithbatchesof the remainingbeefuntilit’sallbrowned,addingmoreoliveoilasneeded.Lower theheatunder thepan tomediumandadd thebutter.When

thebutterhasmelted,addtheonion,paprika,andcuminandstirtocoattheonionwithbutterandspices.Sautétheonionuntilitbecomeslimpandtranslucent,about4minutes.Takethepanofftheheat,addthebeef,andstirtocombinewellwiththe onion mixture. Transfer the beef mixture to a dish and set aside.Wipetheskilletdowntouseforthesausagefilling.

PREPARE THE SAUSAGE FILLINGPlace theskilletovermedium-highheatandaddthe olive oil.When the oil is hot, add the sausage and the onion andcook,breakingapart thesausagemeat,until themeatbegins torenderitsfat,about4minutes.Addthemushrooms,seasonwithapinchofsalt,and continue cooking until the mixture is well blended and cookedthrough, about another 6 minutes. Taste for seasoning and adjust ifneeded.

ROLL OUT AND CUT THE DOUGHCut theempanadadough inhalf.Keeponehalfwrappedinplasticandplacetheotheronaflouredworksurfaceinfrontofyou.Usingarollingpin,rolloutthedoughtoabout⅛inchthick.Tokeepthedoughfromsticking,liftitupofftheworksurfaceaftereverycoupleofrolls.Usea4-inch-diameterroundcookiecutterortherimofaglasstocutout circlesofdough.You shouldget about8 circles (youmayneed toreroll thedoughonce tomakeenough).Makesure tocover thedoughcircleswithplasticwrapwhileyouworktokeepthemfromdryingout.Ifyouwanttostackthem,placeapieceofparchmentpaperbetweenthelayerstokeepthedoughcirclesfromstickingtoeachother.Repeatwiththeotherhalfofthedough.

ASSEMBLE AND SEAL THE EMPANADAS Place a circle of dough in front of you andplacea coupleof tablespoonsof filling in thecenterof thecircle.Wetyour fingers with water and use them to lightly wet the edges of thedoughcircle.Foldonesideofthedoughover,closingtheempanadaandconcealingthefilling.Inorder todistinguish theempanadasafter theyhavebeenclosed, Ilike to create a different seal for each filling. For the sausage andmushroomempanadas,press thebackofa forkalongtheedgestoseal

the empanada. For thebeef empanadas,pinch the edges togetherwithyour fingertips, then, starting at one end, create pleats by folding andpressingtheedgeoftheempanadaupandoverontoitself.

GLAZEANDGRILLTHEEMPANADASPlaceagrilltopperonthegrillgrates.Heatyourgrill to medium (400°F) and close the lid. Wait at least 15 minutesbeforecontinuing.Crack the egg into a small bowl and whisk lightly. Using a small

paintbrush or basting brush, lightly brush the tops of the empanadaswiththeegg.Oilthegrilltopperwithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwith

a longpairof tongs.Place theempanadason the topperandclose thegrill lid. Allow the empanadas to cook for 12 minutes. Because thefillings are already fully cooked, the empanadas are ready when thedoughiscookedandturnsgoldenbrown.

SERVETransfertoaservingplatterorbasketandenjoy.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Commercial empanada dough You can purchase frozenempanadadoughthatcomesinprecut5-inchcircles. Ifyoucan find it, it’s a good alternative to making your own.Simplydefrostatroomtemperaturebeforeusing.Empanada dough is traditionally made with fresh lard.

Because high-quality fresh lard is difficult to find, I usevegetableshortening,whichstillproducesverygoodresults.

TECHNIQUE

Finely diced beef The meat for the empanadas istraditionally chopped or diced; it is never ground. Groundbeef releases too much liquid, resulting in a soggyempanada.

When chopping themeat,make sure the pieces are verysmall(lessthan¼inch)andallaboutthesamesizeforevenbrowning.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thedoughcanbemadeadayinadvance.Keeprefrigeratedandbringtoroomtemperaturebeforeusing.Bothfillingscanalsobemadeadayinadvance.Theempanadascanbeassembledandrefrigeratedadayin

advance. If stacking uncooked empanadas, place a piece ofparchmentpaperbetweeneachtokeepthemfromsticking.

GRILLEDROSEMARYFLATBREAD

You only need to spend five minutes in Argentina to notice theinfluencethatItalianculturehashadonthecountry.Andinnoareaisthismoreapparentthaninitsfood.PizzasandpastasarestaplesoftheArgentinediet,asareredwine,provolonecheese,andsmallcalzones (known in Argentina as empanadas). These grilledflatbreads partake of that heritage and are a popular starter atbarbecues (asados). I love this nonyeasted bread dough for howquick and easy it is tomake—and for howmy guests are alwaysimpressedwhenItellthemImadeitfromscratch!Serves8

3½cupsall-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingpowder2teaspoonssalt1stick(½cup)unsaltedbutter,cutintocubes,chilled1cupwater1bunchfreshrosemary1cupoliveoilFleurdeselorothercrunchyfinishingsalt(optional)

PREPARETHEDOUGHCombinetheflour,bakingpowder,andsaltintheworkbowl of a standmixer or in a largemixing bowl and stir to combine.Scatter the butter pieces over the dry ingredients and, using yourfingertips, squeeze the butter into the flour between your index fingerand thumb until the butter pieces are the size of peas and evenlyscatteredthroughouttheflour.Usingthepaddleattachmentofyourstandmixer,turnthemachineon

tomedium-high speed and drizzle thewater over the dry ingredients.Wait for the dough to come together into a ball. Continuemixing on

medium-highforanadditional2minutes(thisstepservestokneadthedough).Alternatively,useahandheldelectricmixerathighspeedfor3minutes. Remove the dough from the bowl after it has formed a ballaroundthebeaters,andonaflouredworksurfacekneadthedoughbyhandfor3minutes.Wrapthedoughinplasticandallowtorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.

PREPARETHEROSEMARYBRUSHCreatearosemarybastingbrushbytightlytyingthe rosemary stalks at their base with twine (or use a rubber band).Placetheoliveoilinacupandsettherosemarybrushtiesideupintheoil.

ROLLOUTTHEDOUGHCutthedoughinto4equalpieces.Onalightlyflouredworksurface,usearollingpintorolloutthedoughintoa9-inchcirclethat is about ⅛ inch thick. Do not worry if the shape is irregular (Iactuallythinkitlooksbetterthatway).Setasideandrepeatwiththerestofthedough.Using the rosemary brush, slather the tops of the rolled-out doughroundswithacoatingofoliveoil.

GRILL THE DOUGHAND SERVEHeatyourgrill tomedium-high(450°F)andclosethe lid.Waitat least15minutesbeforecontinuing.Oil thegrill grateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Place the flatbreads,oiledsidedown,onto thegrillgratesandbrushthetopsofthedoughwithmoreoil.Closethegrilllidandallowtocookfor 3 to 4 minutes, until the crust develops grill marks and turns agoldenbrowncolor.Fliptheflatbreadsover,brushmoreoilonthetops,andallowtocookwiththelidclosedforanadditional3to4minutes.Removetheflatbreadsfromthegrillandbrushabitmoreoilontop.Ifyoulike,whilethebreadisstillhotyoucansprinklesomefinishingsaltoverit.Cutthebreadintowedgesasyouwouldapizzaandservewarm.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

BakingpowderBecausethisdoughisleavenedwithbakingpowder,it

canbegrilledaslittleas30minutesafterithasbeenmade(doughmadewithyeastneedsmoretime).

TECHNIQUE

ShapingthedoughYoudonotneedarollingpintoshapethedough.Simplyplacethedoughonyourworksurfaceand,usingyourfingertips,pushitoutintoaflat,circularshape,turningitinacircleasyoudoso.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The dough can bemade a day in advance, tightlywrapped in plastic,andrefrigerated.Bringthedoughtoroomtemperaturebeforerollingoutandgrilling.

Arugula-,andGarlic-&GreenOnion-StuffedFlankSteak

ARUGULA-,GARLIC-&GREENONION–STUFFEDFLANKSTEAK

{MATAMBRE}

If an Argentine offers you amatambre, I hope you are hungry.Traditionally, the dish,whose name literally translates to “hungerkiller,” ismade up of a long piece of flank steak rolled around astuffingof rice,beans,eggs,andanythingelse thecookdecides toadd.Justoneslicehasthemakingsoftwomeals!However,lightervariations do exist. My favorite is this one, stuffed with aromaticvegetablesandleafygreensthatworkperfectlywiththechar-grilledflanksteak.Trymycombination,oruseingredientsofyourchoice.Serves8

8clovesgarlicSalt3poundsflanksteak,trimmedofexcessfatBlackpepper3cupsarugulaleaves,washedanddried1bunchgreenonions,topsandrootstrimmed,halvedlengthwisethenhalvedcrosswise3tablespoonsoliveoil

PREPARE A GARLIC PASTE Prepare a garlic paste bymashing the garlic cloveswithateaspoonofsalt inamortarandpestle. Ifyoudonothaveone,youcancreateonebysmashingthegarlicandsaltinsideacupwiththebackofawoodenspoon.Otherwise,simplysprinklethegarlicwiththesaltanduseyourknifetochopitveryfinelybyhand.Ineithercase,youshouldendupwithawetgarlicpaste.

SEASONTHEBEEF,ADDTHETOPPINGS,ANDROLLSeasonthebeefonbothsideswithsalt

andpepperandplacelengthwiseinfrontofyou(theshortsidesoftherectangleshouldbeparalleltoyou).Slatherthegarlicpastealloveronesideofthebeefandtopwiththearugula and the green onions placed evenly across the surface of themeat. Drizzle the olive oil over the vegetables and season with morepepper.Starting with the short side closest to you, begin rolling the beeftightly, being careful to keep the arugula and green onions inside theroll. You should end upwith a tightlywound cylinder of flank steak.Placethebeefrollseamsidedownonyourworksurfaceandcutthree18-inch pieces of cotton kitchen twine. Place them a few inches apartunderthemeatandwrapeachtightlyaroundtherolledbeefandtieintoaknot.

GRILLANDSERVEHeatyourgrilltothehighestsettingandclosethelid.Waitat least 15 minutes before continuing. Oil the grill grates with avegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Set the rolledmeat on the grill seam side down and lower the lid.Cookfor8minutesperside,rotatingtherolltwice(foratotalcookingtime of 24 minutes), until the internal temperature registers 125° to130°Fformedium-rare,oruntilitreachesthedesireddoneness.Allowthemeattorestfor5minutesonaworksurface.Thencutoffthe twine and carve the roll into 1-inch-thick slices and arrange on aservingplatter.Ifthesteakwasnotlongenoughorifyoudidnottietheroll tight enough, it may fall apart when you slice it (I’ve had bothhappentome).Thesteakandvegetableswillstillbedeliciousandcanbeattractivelypresentedalongsideeachotheronaplatter.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUES

TyingthemeatSolongasyouusecottontwine(soitdoesnotignite)andareabletotieaknot,youwillbeabletodothis.Useatleasttwo—andpreferablythree—stringstokeepthemeatsecurelyrolledasitcooks.

Takingan internal temperatureWhen taking the internaltemperature of the meat, be careful to keep the tip ofthermometerprobeinsidethebeef.Becausethethinmeatisrolled around vegetables, it is easy to accidentally take anincorrectmeasurementofthevegetablesinsteadofthebeef.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The meat can be rolled and left refrigerated several hoursbefore grilling. Bring themeat to room temperature beforegrilling.

FreshParsleySauce

FRESHPARSLEYSAUCE{CHIMICHURRI}

Ifyouaskme,chimichurriisastiedtoArgentina’snationalprofileas gauchos and the tango. This incredibly versatile sauce,with itsbrightandvibrant flavors, canalsobeusedasagrillingmarinadeforchicken,fish,orbeef.Makeextratostoreasaflavorfuladditiontoamidweekmeal.Makes1¾cups

4clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed1teaspoonsalt2cupslightlypackedflat-leafparsleyleavesandtenderstems,finelychopped½cupfreshoreganoleaves,finelychopped

½cupredwinevinegar1cupoliveoil1tablespooncrushedredpepper

CREATE A GARLIC PASTE Place the crushed garlic on your cutting board andsprinkle the salt over it. Wait a minute or so; you will notice somemoisture leaching from the garlic. Holding your knife blade almostparalleltothecuttingboard,scrapethebladeoverthechoppedgarlicafewtimes,turningthegarlicintoasemisoftpaste.Placethegarlicpasteinasmallmixingbowl.

COMBINE THE REMAINING INGREDIENTSAdd theparsley,oregano,vinegar, oil, andcrushedredpeppertothebowlwiththegarlicpasteandstiruntilwellcombined.

SERVEORSTOREPlacethesauceinasmallservingbowlandserve.Tostoreforlateruse,placeinanairtightcontainerandrefrigerate.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUE

CreatingagarlicpasteGarlicpasteismadebymashingorscraping garlic cloves with salt, either with a mortar andpestle or on a cutting board with a knife. The salt isnecessarytobringoutthemoistureinthegarliccloves.Iusethis technique often, especiallywhen the garlicwill be leftraw, as it mellows the flavor a bit and eliminates thepossibilitythatoneofmyguestsorIwillbiteintoachunkofrawgarlic.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Chimichurri can be made in advance and kept in therefrigeratorforupto5days.

CHAR-GRILLEDVEGETABLES

Nothingismoreinvitingtomethanagianttrayofcolorfulcharredvegetables.Iespeciallylovecarrots,sincetheyhaveagoodamountof natural sugars that caramelize beautifully on the grill. Chooseyour favorite seasonal veggies and leave them on the grill a bitlonger thanyounormallywould to trulychar themandgive theirflavorsasmokydimension.Serves8

3carrots,peeledandcutlengthwiseintoquarters1bunchasparagus,endstrimmed3onions,peeledandcutthroughtherootendintoquarters2peppers,coredandcutintoquartersOliveoilSaltandblackpepper2lemons,halved

OILANDSEASONTHEVEGETABLESPlacethecarrots,asparagus,onions,andpeppersina largebowl,drizzlegenerouslywitholiveoil, and seasonwith saltandpepper.

GRILL THE VEGETABLES AND SERVE Heat your grill to medium-high (450°F) andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Place all the vegetables on the grill, setting them crosswise on the

grates so they do not fall between them. Place the lemons, cut sidedown,onthegrillaswellandclosethelid.Grillthevegetablesuntiltheydevelopgrillmarksandbecomecharred

inplaces,4to6minutesdependingonhowdensethevegetableis.Thelemonwilltakeabitlonger(butitdoesnotneedtobeflipped).Turnthevegetablesoverandcookuntil theothersidechars,againabout4to6minutes.Removethevegetablesfromthegrillastheyfinishcookingand

arrangeonaservingplatter.Before serving, squeeze the grilled lemon halves over the charredvegetables.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Vegetables To make sure your vegetables char nicely butdon’tburnupanddryout,cutthemonthelargerside.Thisway they will maintain a firm, moist interior while theoutsidechars.Lemon Grilling the lemon halves not only caramelizes thenaturalsugarsfoundinthefruit,butitalsoloosensthecitrusmembranes,makingthelemonextrajuicy.Because the acid in the lemon juice will turn the greenvegetables a drab olive color, wait until you are ready toservebeforesqueezingthejuiceoverthevegetables.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thevegetablescanbecutseveralhoursinadvance,butwaituntilyouarereadytogrillthembeforeoilingandseasoningthem. The vegetables can also be grilled a few hours inadvanceandservedatroomtemperature.Remembernottosqueeze the lemonsover thevegetablesuntilyouare readytoserve.

SavoryCornPudding

SAVORYCORNPUDDING{HUMITADEOLLA}

ThisdishfromnorthernArgentinaremindsmeofsummercreamedcorn. It canbe cooked in apot (as it is here) orwrapped in cornhusksandsteamed(likeaMexicantamal).Ilovethisversionforitssimplicity and deliciousness. There is something incrediblycomfortingaboutwarm, creamy sweet corn, andwhenyoupair itwithcharredgrilledbeef,youhaveatruewinner!Serves8

4½cupscorn(about7earsfreshor32ouncesfrozencorn,thawed)¼cupheavycream1teaspooncornstarch2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1tablespoonoliveoil1onion,chopped(about1cup)1redpepper,coredanddiced(about¾cup)1teaspoonsalt¼teaspooncayennepepper8leavesbasil

PUREETHECORNPlacethecorn,heavycream,andcornstarchinthejarofablenderor theworkbowlof a foodprocessor andpureeuntil smooth.Setaside.

SAUTÉ THE VEGETABLESHeat amedium saucepan overmediumheat and addthe butter and oil. When the butter has melted completely, add theonion and red pepper and cook until the vegetables turn limp andtranslucent,about6minutes.Stirinthesaltandcayennepepper.

COOKTHECORNANDSERVEAddthecornmixturetothesautéedvegetablesand

cookovermediumheat,stirringintermittently,untilthecorniscooked,themixtureturnsthickandcreamy,andtheflavorsareblended,10to12minutes(frozencornwilltakelesstime,about8minutes).Removethepotfromtheheatandallowthecornpuddingtorestfor5minutes;itwillcontinuethickening.Transfertoaservingbowlandgarnishwiththebasilleaves.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUE

PureeingthecornThisdishistraditionallymadebygratingthe corn off the cob. You can do that, but I opt for thequickerandeasiermethodofpureeingthecorninablenderorfoodprocessor.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thisdish canbemadeup toaday inadvanceandkept intherefrigerator.Simplyreheatbeforeserving.

DULCEDELECHECOOKIECAKE

{ALFAJORGIGANTE}

Alfajores are to Argentina what Oreo cookies are to the UnitedStates.FoundalloverArgentina,theyaremadeupofdulcedelechesandwichedbetweentwocakeybrownsugarcookies.Thesandwichistheneitherdippedinchocolateorcoatedinconfectioners’sugar.IlovethemsomuchthatIdecidedtomakeagiantone!It’sagreatendingtoanymeal.Serveasyouwouldacake.Serves10

2½sticks(1¼cups)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature2cupspackedlightbrownsugar3eggs1tablespoonvanillaextract2¼cupsall-purposeflour1½teaspoonsbakingpowder1½teaspoonssalt1cupdulcedeleche,homemadeorstorebought,orothercaramelsauceConfectioners’sugar,fordusting(about¼cup)

PREHEATTHEOVENANDPREPARECAKEPANSPreheattheovento350°F.Youwillbeusing2ovenracks,somakesureoneisplacedonthelowerbracketsandtheotherinthecenter.Cutoutparchmentpapercirclestofitinthebottomsofeachoftwo9-

inchroundcakepans(seeCookingNotes,right).Butter thebottomsofboth pans, topwith the parchment rounds, and butter the tops of theparchmentrounds.Setaside.

MAKE THE BATTER Using a handheld electricmixer or standmixerwith thepaddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar until smooth, about 2

minutes.Addtheeggsandvanillaandcontinuebeatingforanother3minutes,untillightandfluffy.Ifnecessary,scrapethebottomofthebowlwitharubberspatulatofullyincorporatealltheingredients.Placetheflour,bakingpowder,andsaltinabowlandstirwithaforktocombine.Addaboutaquarteroftheflourmixturetothebutter-sugar-eggmixture,beatinguntilfullyincorporated.Continueaddingtheflourin batches until it’s all mixed in. The batter will be slightly thick. Becarefulnottooverbeatthemixture,asthiswillresultinatoughcookie.

BAKE THE CAKE Pourhalf of the batter into each cakepan.Using a rubberspatula,carefullyspreadthebatter towardallsidesof thepan,makingsurethatthethicknessofthebatterislevelthroughout.Thisisnecessarytoensureevencooking.Bakefor20minutes,oruntilaninsertedskewerortoothpickcomesoutclean.

COOLANDASSEMBLETHECAKERemovethecakesfromtheovenandallowtocoolfor15minutesinthepans.Runathinknifebladearoundtheperimeterofthecakesandinvertthemontoaworksurface.Peelofftheparchmentpaper.Placethecakessidebysidewiththebottoms(thesidesyoupeeledtheparchmentoffof)facingup.Spreadthedulcedelecheovertheexposedsurface of one of the cakes. Invert the plain cake over the one spreadwith dulce de leche, so that the sides of the cakes that had theparchmentpeeledoffaretheinsidesofthesandwich.Carefullymovethecakeontoaservingplatter.Dust a generous amount of confectioners’ sugar over the top of theassembledcake.Sliceandserve.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUE

Parchment rounds Parchment rounds are used tomake iteasier to remove a cake from its pan once it has cooled.Typically,theyareonlyaskedforifitwouldprovedifficult

toremovethecakewithout them.Theeasiestwaytomakethem is to simply trace the bottomof the cake pan onto apieceofparchmentandthencutitoutwithscissors,cuttinga little bit inside the line you drew to account for thethicknessofthepan’ssides.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

You canmake this cake a day in advance, but hold off ondustingitwiththeconfectioners’sugaruntiljustbeforeyouplan to serve it. Keep the cakewrapped in plastic at roomtemperature.

ChileanSeafoodCookout

DrinkWhiteWineSpritzers

StarterBacon-WrappedScallopswithCharredCornSalsa

MainCoursesWoodPlank–GrilledHalibut/FletánalaParrilla

GrilledClams&Chorizo/CurantoalDisco

Condiments&SidesChileanHotPepperSauce/SalsaPebre

CharredPotatoesandPancetta

SaladofMarinatedCheese,Olives&Tomatoes

DessertMeringueCakewithDulcedeLeche&Berries/MerengónconDulcedeLecheyBayas

ChileancuisineisverymuchtiedtoSpain—youmighteventhinkofitasSpanish cuisine prepared with local Chilean ingredients and sprinkledwithinfluencesofotherEuropeancountriessuchasItalyandGermany.Chile is anarrow,mountainous country (its averagewidth isonly110miles) with a very long coastline (over 2,600 miles). It is,understandably, a maritime-centric culture, and seafood is immenselypopular. The country’s mountainous terrain favors the breeding ofsmaller animals such as lamb, rabbit, and pig—rather than cattle—sothese are the most common meats in the Chilean diet. Like theirneighbors in Argentina, Chileans love to cook outdoors with woodand/orcharcoal,andtheymakeanddrinkalotofwine.Corn,potatoes,garlic, and tomatoes are also important ingredients here at thesouthwesternedgeofSouthAmerica.

{MenuGamePlan}

Onedayinadvance:•Bakethemeringuecake,butdonottopityetwithberriesanddulcedeleche.Coverloosely.Storage:roomtemperature

Thenightbefore:•Preparethesalad.Storage:refrigerator•Preparethehotpeppersauce.Storage:refrigerator

Onthemorningof:•Soakthewoodenplankforatleast2hours.•Wrapthescallopsinbaconandcover.Storage:refrigerator•Combineallthesauceingredientsfortheclamsandchorizoinabowl.Storage:roomtemperature

Twotothreehoursbefore:•Shuckthecornandsoakitinwater.•Preparethefoilpacketsofpancettaandpotatoes.Storage:roomtemperature•Preparetheingredientsforcharredcornsalsa—exceptthecorn—andcombinetheminaservingbowl.You’llgrillandcharthecornlater.Storage:roomtemperature•Finishdessertbytoppingthemeringuewithdulcedelecheandberries.Storage:room

thecornlater.Storage:roomtemperature•Finishdessertbytoppingthemeringuewithdulcedelecheandberries.Storage:roomtemperature

Inthehourbefore(setup):•Setupthebeveragebarwithingredientsforthewhitewinespritzers.•Setout:SaladofMarinatedCheese,Olives&TomatoesChileanHotPepperSauce

Asyoureventunfolds:•Servewinespritzers.•Grill/charthecornandaddtothesalsa.•Grillthebacon-wrappedscallops.•Servethestarters.•Roastandcharthepotatoandpancettapackets.•Placeapanonthegrillandaddtheclamandchorizosauceingredients.•Grillthechorizoandclamsandaddthemtothesauce.Coverthepanwiththepanlidorfoil.•Removethewoodenplankfromthewaterandprepareitforgrilling.•Seasonthefish,placeitontheplank,andgrill.•Servethemaincourses.•Servedessert.

WHITEWINESPRITZERS

Thisisagreatstarterforanoutdoorcookout.Lightandrefreshing,ithelpsopenyourappetitewhilequenchingyourthirst.It’sagreatcocktailtoserveinpitchers,anditlooksfabulousinpunchbowls.Ifyou want to make individual spritzers, top a glass of white winewithsomesparklingwaterandaddalemonwedge.Serves6

1bottleChileanwhitewine,chilled2½cupssparklingwater,chilled2lemons,slicedintorounds

Placeall the ingredients inaglasspitcherand stirwell. Serve inwineglassesandenjoy.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Chilean white wines The two most popular white winevarietalsinChilearechardonnay,whichisfullerbodied,andsauvignon blanc, which is crisper. While both make goodspritzers,Ipreferusingsauvignonblanc.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

It’sbest to serve the spritzers soonafteryoumake them topreservetheeffervescenceofthesparklingwater.

BACON-WRAPPEDSCALLOPSwithCharredCornSalsa

WhenIfirsttastedthisdish,Iknewitwouldbeakeeper.Allofitsdelicious elementsmake it the perfect starter salad: sweet, smokymeatsetoveratangysalsaoftomato,basil,andcharredcorn.Thiscolorfuldish,whichcanbeleftoutatroomtemperaturewithlittleeffecton its tasteor texture, isalsogreat to serveon itsownasalightlunch.Serves8

4earsfreshcorn,husksonbutsilksremoved1pintcherrytomatoes,quarteredLeavesfrom3or4stemsfreshbasil(about20leaves),cutintothinstrips2greenonions,whitepartsonly,slicedthin

Juiceof1lemon2tablespoonsoliveoilSaltandblackpepper8largeseascallops(about1poundtotal)4stripsbacon,cutinhalfcrosswise

SOAK THE CORN Place the corn in a large stockpotor other container largeenoughtoholdalltheears,andfillitwithwater.Ifyoudonothaveasufficientlylargecontainer,useyourkitchensink.Allowthecorntosoakfor20minutes.Removefromthewater,shake,

and tightly squeeze the husks against the kernels of corn to removeexcesswater.

GRILL THE CORN Heat your grill to high (550°F) and close the lid.Wait atleast15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)and

continuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Placethecornontherack,closethelid,andgrillfor5minutes.Turnthecornoverandgrillforanother5minutes.Removefromthegrill.

PULLOFFTHEHUSKSANDCHARTHECORNIncreasethegrilltemperaturetohigh.Pulloff the husks from the cobs of corn and discard them. Place the cobsdirectlyonthegrillandclosethelid.Allowthekernelstocharforabout5minutesperside,oruntiltheybecomedarkandgoldenbrownonallsides.Removefromthegrillandsetaside.Closethegrilllidtokeepthegrilltemperatureup;you’llbegrillingthescallopsnext.

PREPARE THE SALADOnawork surface, slice the cornkernels from the cobswith a sharp knife. Collect all the kernels andplace them in amixingbowl. Add the tomatoes, basil, and green onions to the bowl and tosswell.Drizzle in the lemon juiceandoliveoil and seasonwith salt andpepper.Mixwell.Tasteandadjustseasoningifnecessary.

PREPAREANDGRILLTHESCALLOPSSeasoneachscallopwithsaltandpepper.Wrapasliceofbaconaroundeach,coveringthescallop’sflatsides.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwitha longpairof tongs.Place thescallopson thegrill,makingsure to setthe bacon seam side down, and lower the heat tomedium-high.Closethe lid and grill for 6 minutes. Turn the scallops over and grill foranother6minutes.

SERVESpoonthesaladontoalargeservingplatter,topwiththescallops,andserve.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUES

BasilstripsSlicingbasilintothinstrips,calledchiffonade,isveryeasytodo.Simplystackthebasilleavesontopofeachotherandthenrollthemintoacylinderlikeacigarette.Use

yourknifetoslicetheleavescrosswiseintothinstrips.Shakethestripsloosefromeachother.Wrapping scallops in bacon Wrapping lean cuts of meatwith fat in order to prevent the meat from drying out iscalled barding. In this recipe, bacon not only keeps thescallops moist, it also infuses the shellfish with its smokyflavor.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thesaladcanbemadeafewhoursinadvance.Thescallopscanbegrilledacoupleofhoursinadvanceandkeptatroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

WoodPlank-GrilledHalibut

WOODPLANK–GRILLEDHALIBUT

{FLETÁNALAPARRILLA}

Ilovegrilledfish,butIdon’talwayslovethecareneededtomakesure it doesn’t dry out. Even the fattiest of fish can becomedesiccatedandtastelessifcookedimproperly.Mysolutionistogrillfish on wood grilling planks. Not only do they protect the fish’smoisturebyallowingthefishtositinitsownjuices,theyimpartabeautiful smoky flavor and deep, rich color reminiscent of thewood-burninggrillsof theSouthernCone.Onceyou seehoweasytheplanksaretoworkwith(andhowquickcleanupbecomes),Iamsureyouwillkeepasupplyofthemaround.Serves8

2½to3poundshalibutfillet(onelargefilletorafewsmallerones)Oliveoil

Saltandpepper

SOAK THEWOOD PLANKSoakaplank inwater for2hours. (Iputmine in thekitchensinkandplaceapotoverittokeepitsubmerged.)PREPARETHEPLANKFORGRILLINGHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Usingtongsoraheat-proofgrillglove,placeyoursoakedplankonthe

grill for 2 minutes, then turn the board over and grill for another 2minutes.Repeat,sothatyouwillhavegrilledeachsideforatotalof4minutes. You will hear the wood snap. The snapping sounds willcontinue throughout the grilling process. Leave the plank on the grillwhileyouseasonyourfish.

SEASONANDGRILL THE FISHDrizzleoliveoilonbothsidesof thefishandthenseason each side with salt and pepper. Place the fish directly on thewoodplankandclosethegrilllid.

Afterafewminutesyoushouldbegintoseesmokecomeoutthesidesofthegrill.Cookfor15minutes,oruntilthefishiscookedthrough.Ifthefilletsarelessthan1inchthick,begincheckingfordonenessafter12minutes. You know it is ready when the flesh begins to flake andseparate,andwhenametalskewerinsertedintothefleshfeelswarmtothetouchwhenremoved.

SERVEForanattractivelyrusticpresentation,servethefishdirectlyonthewoodenplank.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Halibut Halibut can be purchased as fillets or steaks, andeitherwouldworkwellinthisrecipe.Thislean,firm,white-fleshed fish has a very mild flavor and is available year-round.Whilethehalibut’sdensemeatinessmakesitagreatgrilling fish, it’s best to use awoodplankwhen grilling tokeeptheleanfleshfromdryingout.

TECHNIQUE

Wood grilling planks I love grilling fish on thin woodenplanks,becauseIdon’thavetoworryaboutmyfishstickingto or falling in between the grates, and cleanup is a snap.Theplankswon’tgiveyougrillmarks,buttheywillgiveyoumoist,smokyfishwithadeeptancolor.Theplankscomeindifferent types of wood, but cedar, which gives off amildsmokyflavor,isthemostpopular.Foundatkitchenwarestoresaswellasmanyfoodmarkets,the planks are disposable, so you can simply discard themafteryouaredoneusingthem.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The wooden plank should be soaked at least 2 hours in

advance.However, the fish should be seasoned and grilledrightbeforeserving.

GrilledClams&Chorizo

GRILLEDCLAMS&CHORIZO

{CURANTOALDISCO}

I like to thinkof thisdishasaLatin clambake.A smokedpaprikaand butter sauce serves as the base to which grilled chorizo andgrilledclamsareadded.It’squick,easy,anddelicious!Ifyouhavenever grilled clams, you will see just how quickly they cook andhowflavorful theyare.But thebestpart is that,sinceyoucanseethem pop open, you won’t have to worry about the clamsovercookingandturningrubbery.Thisrecipeisasfuntomakeasitisdelicioustoeat.Serves8

1½poundsfreshchorizo1stick(½cup)unsaltedbutter,diced1½cupswhitewine4clovesgarlic,minced3shallots,sliced2tomatoes,chopped1½teaspoonssmokedpaprikaSaltandblackpepper36smallclamsintheshell,scrubbedExtra-virginoliveoil1baguette,halvedlengthwise¼cuplightlypackedflat-leafparsleyleavesandtenderstems,chopped3lemons,cutintowedges

GRILLTHECHORIZOANDPREPARETHESAUCEHeatyourgrilltomedium-high(450°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairof

tongs.Placethechorizoononesideofthegrill,closethelid,andcookfor8to 10minutes, or until the chorizo is a deep golden brown. Turn thesausageoverandgrillforanother4to5minutes,untilitsskinischarredandshriveled.Removethechorizofromthegrill.Setaroastingpansetontheothersideofthegrillandaddthebutter,wine,garlic,shallots,tomatoes,smokedpaprika,½teaspoonofsalt,and¼teaspoonofblackpepper.Cook,stirringintermittently,for8minutes,oruntilthetomatoesstarttobreakdownandtheshallotssoften.Meanwhile,slicethechorizointothinroundsandaddtothepanwiththesauce.Stirtocombine,andleavethepanonthegrill.

GRILLTHECLAMSIncreasethegrillheattohigh(550°F),leavingthelidopen.Place the clams directly on the grill grate and cook until they popopen,about3to6minutes.Usetongstotransfertheclamstothepanassoon as they open. Discard any clams that remain shut after 8 or 9minutes.Tosstheclams,chorizo,andsaucetogether,andsetaside.

GRILL AND SLICE THE BREAD Drizzle some olive oil over the inside of the cutbaguetteandplacethebreadhalvescutsidedownonthegrill.Allowtotoastforafewminutes,untilslightlycharredandtoasted.Removefromtheheatandcutintoslices.

SERVE Garnish the clams and chorizo with a sprinkling of parsley andwedgesoflemon.Servewiththebaguetteslices.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

ClamsUseyourfavoriteclamsinthisrecipe,orfeelfreetoexperimentwithdifferenttypesofshellfish,suchasmussels.Shrimpalsoworkreallywellinthisrecipe.

EQUIPMENT

Ihaveusedeverythingfromastainless-steelroastingpantoa paella pan to a disposable foil roasting pan—all withsuccess.Justmakesurethepanfitsonthegrillwithenoughextraspacetogrillthechorizoandclams.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

All of the ingredients for the sauce can be prepared andplacedinthepan.Astheclamscanbecomerubberyastheysit, the clams and chorizo should be grilled just beforeserving.

CHILEANHOTPEPPERSALSA{SALSAPEBRE}

Think of this sauce as a cross between a fresh herb-and oil-basedArgentine chimichurri and a hot, chunky Mexican salsa. Chile’ssharedborderwithArgentinaexplainshalfofit,andwhileChileisnot geographically close toMexico, it is close to Peru,where hot,chile-tingedsaucesarecommonlyused.ThisclassicChileansauceisa great accompaniment to grilled meats, seafood, and vegetables,and itworkswonderfully as a spicy spreadon sandwiches. In thismenu, it accompanies the wood plank–grilled fish.Makesabout¾cup

¼cupplus2tablespoonsredwinevinegar5clovesgarlic,peeled6greenonions,rootsandtopstrimmed1or2serranochiles,stemmed2cupslightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,chopped2plumtomatoes,coredandchopped¼cupplus1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1teaspoonsalt

PUREE THE AROMATIC INGREDIENTS Place the red wine vinegar, garlic, greenonions, and chile in a blender or small food processor. Puree untilsmooth.

MIXINTHEREMAININGINGREDIENTSPourthepureedmixtureintoabowlandblendinthecilantro,tomatoes,oliveoil,andsalt.Serveorsetasideforuptoaday.

CHARREDPOTATOES&PANCETTA

Chapaleles, deep-fried potato cakes flavored with pork rinds, arecommonlyservedinChileasasidedishorsnack.Thisrecipefindsinspiration from the chapalele, but simplifies the preparation byroastingpotatoesandpancettatogetherinafoilpacketonthegrill.The results are pancetta-perfumed Yukon gold potatoes that arecrispy and charred on the outside and moist and pillowy on theinside.Serves8

3poundsYukongoldpotatoes,scrubbedandcutintosmallwedges½poundpancetta,diced4shallots,peeledandcutintoquartersthroughtherootend4sprigsfreshthyme,plusmoreforgarnish½cupoliveoilSaltandblackpepper

PREPAREFOILPACKETSCutapieceoffoilabout14inchesinlengthandplace¼of the potatoes, ¼ of the pancetta, and 4 quarters of a shallot in itscenter.Sprinkletheleavesofonesprigofthymeoverthevegetablesanddrizzlewith2tablespoonsofoliveoil.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandtoss the vegetables gently with your hands to coat them in oil andseasonings.Seal the packet by bringing the long sides of the foil up toward the

center and folding the edges over a couple of times to create a seal.Bringtheendsuptowardsthecenterandsealbycrimpingthefoilshut.Repeattheprocessthreetimestoendupwithatotalof4packets.

ROASTTHEPACKETSHeatyourgrilltohigh(550°F)andclosethelid.Waitatleast15minutesbefore lowering theheat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.

Placethepotatopacketsonthegrillshelfandclosethelid.Ifyoudonothaveagrill shelf, lower theheat tomediumandplace thepacketsdirectly on the grates. Allow the potatoes to roast for 40 minutes, oruntiltender.Itestthisbyskeweringthetipofathinknifethroughthefoilandintoapotato.IfIdon’tmeetresistance,thepotatoesareready.

CHARTHEPOTATOESIncreasethegrillheattohigh(550°F).Placethepacketsdirectlyonthegrates,closethelid,andallowtocookfor15minutestocharthebottomofthepotatoes.Openthepackets,beingcarefulnottoburn yourself with the steam, and transfer the potatoes to a servingbowl.Youmayneedtopeeloffsomeofthepotatoesthathavebecomestuck and charred to the foil. (If the potatoes have not developed acharredcrust,closethefoilpacketandreturntothegrilluntiltheydo.)Removethepacketsfromthegrillandsetaside.

GARNISH AND SERVETransfer toa servingbowlandgarnishwith some freshsprigsofthyme.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

YukongoldpotatoesDevelopedinCanada,Yukongoldsareamong the most versatile potatoes. They have a richlyflavoredyellowflesh,whichmanysayhasabutterytaste.Agoodsubstitutefortheminthisrecipeissmallredpotatoes.PancettaPancettaisporkbellythathasbeensaltcuredandflavoredwithspicesbut isnotsmoked.It is typicallyfoundrolled.Simplyeliminateit ifyoucannotfindpancetta,as itisdifficulttofindasuitablesubstituteforitinthisrecipe.

TECHNIQUE

Removing thyme leaves Pinch the top of the sprig withyourthumbandindexfingerandgentlypulldowntowardsthe bottom of the sprig, going against the growth of theleaves. The leaveswill come right off. The thin, soft stems

thatcomeoffwiththeleavesarefinetoleavein.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thepacketscanbepreparedafewhoursinadvanceandleftatroomtemperature.Thepacketscanalsoberoastedintheoven (at450°F for30minutes)until youare ready to charthemonthegrill.

SALADofMARINATEDCHEESE,OLIVES&TOMATOES

While this very easy side dish is great to serve year-round, Iespecially love tomake itwhen tomatoes are at their peak. I usecherry or grape tomatoes here since they are usually in goodconditionevenwhentheothertomatoesarepaleandlifeless.Butifyoucangathertomatoesinavarietyofshapesandcolorsandthrowthem into the mix, you will take this salad to another level.Serves8

10ouncesmanchegocheese,cubed½cupoliveoil¼cupredwinevinegarLeavesfrom4sprigsofthyme1cuppittedolives3greenonions,whitepartsonly,slicedthin1pintcherryorgrapetomatoes,halvedSaltandblackpepper1headromainelettuce,leavestornbyhand

MARINATETHECHEESE,OLIVES,ANDTOMATOESPlacecheese,oliveoil,vinegar,thymeleaves, olives, green onions, and tomatoes in a mixing bowl and tosswell.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandallowthemixturetomarinateatroomtemperaturefor2hours.

ASSEMBLETHE SALADPlacethelettuceleavesonalargeplatter.Topwiththecheese,olives,tomatoes,andalltheirmarinade,tosswell,andserve.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

ManchegocheeseThis semifirm sheep’smilk cheesehas aslightlysharpflavor.Itismadein10-inchroundwheelsthathavearecognizablezigzagpatternembossedontherind;therounds are typically cut into wedges that are wrapped forsale.You can use a different cheese in this recipe; just makesure it is not a soft cheese, which will fall apart in themarinade.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Themarinatedcheese,olive,andtomatomixturegetsbetterwith time. If you can, prepare it a day in advance, keep itrefrigerated, andbring out to come to room temperature 2hoursbeforeserving.

MERINGUECAKEwithDulcedeLeche&Berries

{MERENGÓNCONDULCEDELECHEYBAYAS}

InspiredbytheclassicNewZealanddessert,thepavlova,thisrecipeusesaslow-bakedmeringueasabaseformixedberries.Butbecausedessertinthispartoftheworldisnotcompletewithouttheadditionofdulcedeleche,Imadesuretoslatherathinlayerofitbetweenthemeringueandthefruit.Serves8to10

1½cupsconfectioners’sugar,plusmoreforgarnish¼cuppackedbrownsugar1teaspooncornstarch2teaspoonsvanillaextract2teaspoonsdistilledwhitevinegar6eggwhites1½cupsdulcedeleche1pintraspberries½pintblueberries½pintblackberries

PREPARE A BAKING SHEET Set a rack in the center of the oven andpreheat to350°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Setaside.

PREPARE THE MERINGUE Place the confectioners’ sugar, brown sugar, andcornstarchinabowlandmixwell,makingsuretobreakupanyclumpsofbrownsugar.Setaside.Inasmallbowl,combinethevanillaextractandvinegarandsetaside.Usingastandmixerwiththepaddleattachmentorahandheldelectric

mixer, whip the egg whites on high until frothy. Lower the speed to

mediumandaddthesugarmixtureabout½cupatatime,incorporatingeachadditionbeforeaddingmoresugar.Addthevanilla-vinegarmixtureandwhipforanotherminute,untiltheeggwhiteshaveaglossysheentothemandformsoftpeaks.Using a rubber spatula, scoop the meringue into the center of theparchment-lined baking sheet and spread it into a circle. It is notimportantthatthecirclebeperfectlyround,buttrytomakeitabout9inchesacrossand2inchestall.Levelthetopsothatthemeringuecooksevenly.

BAKE THEMERINGUELowertheovento275°Fandbakethemeringuefor1½hours,oruntil ithas turneda tancolorand the tophashardenedandbeguntocrack.Turnofftheheatandallowthemeringuetocoolintheovenfor1hour.

ASSEMBLETHEDESSERTANDSERVERemovethemeringuefromtheparchmentandplace it top sideupona servingdish.Themeringue isvery light,andwillseemasifitmaycrack,butitissturdierthanyouthink.Ifitdoescrack,don’tworryaboutit;itwillbecoveredwithdulcedeleche.Spreadthedulcedelechealloverthetopofthemeringueandcoverwith the berries. Garnish the top of the dessert with a dusting ofconfectioners’sugar.Serveandenjoy.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUE

AddingvinegartothemeringueVinegar(oranotheracid)is added to meringue to prevent overbeating, which couldcause the meringue to become lumpy or collapse. Thevinegardoesnotchangethemeringue’sflavor.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thisdessertcanbeassembledseveralhoursinadvance.Youcanpreparethemeringuethenightbeforeandaddthedulcedelecheandfruitafewhoursbeforeserving.Waituntilyou

are ready to serve before dusting the cake withconfectioner’ssugar.

BrazilianRodizio

DrinkCaipiroska

StarterGrilledSaladSugarcane-SkeweredShrimpwithCoconut-LimeGlaze

MainCoursesCharcoal-GrilledSkewersofSteak,Sausage&Chicken/Churrascada

Condiments&SidesSmokedPaprikaOilHotPepper&LimeSauceYucaSoufflé/SuflédeYucaBlackBean,Bacon&RiceSalad

DessertCoconutCupcakes

Braziliangastronomy is a combinationof themanycultures thatmakeupthecountry.ButthethreegroupsthathavehadthebiggestimpactonBrazil’s cuisine are thenativepeoples, the conqueringPortuguese, andthe African slaves who were brought to work on the sugarcaneplantations—and who had a huge impact on Brazilian cooking byturningpeppers,coconut,andleafygreens intoBrazilianstaples.Thesegroups all brought to the table their own culinary techniques, whichthey put to use with local ingredients. The “cowboy” cuisine that ispopular inArgentina isalsopopular inBrazil:Brazilians lovebeefandpork cooked over charcoal. Aromatics like garlic and parsley, manioc(alsoknownascassavaoryuca),rice,andblackbeansarealsocentraltoBraziliancuisine.

{MENUGAMEPLAN}

Onedayinadvance:Preparethecupcakesandcoverthemwithplasticwrap.Donotpreparethemeringueyet.Storage:roomtemperature

Thenightbefore:Preparethecoconut-limeglaze.Storage:refrigeratorPreparetheSmokedPaprikaOil.Storage:roomtemperaturePreparetheHotPepper&LimeSauce.Storage:refrigerator

Onthemorningof:PreparetheBlackBean,Bacon&RiceSalad.Coverwithadamptowel.Storage:roomtemperaturePreparethesugarcaneskewers(ifusing)orsoaksomewoodenskewers.Preparethemeringueandspreaditonthecupcakes.Toastthecoconutflakesandsprinkleoverthemeringue.Storage:roomtemperature

Twotothreehoursbefore:BaketheYucaSoufflé.Storage:roomtemperatureSkewertheshrimp.Storage:refrigerator

Skewerthemeatsontometalskewers.Storage:refrigeratorPreparefoilpacketsoftomatoesforthegrilledsalad.Storage:roomtemperature

Inthehourbefore(setup):SetupthebarwithingredientsfortheCaipiroskas.PuttheYucaSouffléintheoven.Cutthelettuceandlemonsforthegrilledsalad.Coverwithadamptowel.Storage:roomtemperatureSetout:BlackBean,Bacon&RiceSalad(keepcoveredwithadamptowel)SmokedPaprikaOilHotPepper&LimeSauce

Asyoureventunfolds:PrepareandservetheCaipiroskas.Glazeandgrilltheshrimpskewers.Servethestarters.Saltandgrillthemeats.Grillthesaladingredients.Servethemaincoursesandsides.Servedessert.

CAIPIROSKA

Brazil isknownforitsCaipirinha,acocktailmadewithcachaça(asugarcane liquor), lime, and sugar. However, the Caipiroska, asimilar cocktailmadewith vodka, is also quite popular. Imade apitcheroftheseforapartywhenIonlyhadvodkainthehouseandthey now hold a permanent place in my cocktail repertoire.Makes1cocktail

1lime,cutinto8wedges1teaspoonsugar2ouncesvodkaIce

Placethelimewedgesandsugarinashortrocksglass.Useamuddlerorthehandleofawoodenspoontomashthelimeandsugaruntilyouhaveextractedallthejuicefromthefruitandthesugarhasdissolved.Pourinthevodka,topwithice,andstir.

COOKINGNOTESADVANCEPREPARATION

The recipe can easily bemultiplied and left to chill in therefrigerator.

Tomakeapartypitcherfor8:

8limes,cutintosmallwedges

2tablespoonsplus2teaspoonssugar

16ouncesvodka

When you’re ready to serve, fill short rocks glasseswithiceandpour2ouncesofthesweet-and-sourvodkaintoeach

glass.Scoopoutsomeofthecrushedlimewedgesintoeachglass.

GRILLEDSALAD

Ilovethecookedleafygreenvegetables,suchascollardgreensandkale,thatareservedassidedishesinBrazil.SoIwantedtokeeptheideaofservingwiltedgreenswhilestillmaintainingthefreshnessofagreensalad.Icameupwiththisgrilledsalad,andithasbecomemygo-tosummersalad.Serves8to10

1pintcherryorgrapetomatoes,stemmedOliveoilSaltandblackpepper1lemon,halved1lime,halved3heartsofromainelettuce,splitinhalflengthwise

PREPARE THE TOMATO PACKETS Cut 2 pieces of foil about 14 inches in length.Placehalfofthetomatoesinthecenterofeachpieceoffoil,drizzlewitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Sealthepacketsbybringingthelongsidesofthefoiluptowardsthe

center and folding the edges over a couple of times to create a seal.Bringtheendsuptowardsthecenterandcrimpthefoilshut.

GRILL THE TOMATO PACKETS AND CITRUS FRUIT Heat your grill to high (550°F) andclose the lid. Wait at least 15 minutes before lowering the heat tomedium-high(450°F)andcontinuing.Placethetomatopacketsonthegrill.Placethelemonandlimehalves

cutsidedownonthegrill.Closethelidandallowtocookfor5minutes.

GRILLTHELETTUCEOilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Drizzleoliveoiloverthecutsidesoftheromaineheartsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Openthegrill lidand

placethelettucescutsidedownonthegrill.Cookallthevegetableswiththe lid open for about 3 minutes, or until the lettuce develops grillmarks.

SERVERemovethetomatopacketsfromthegrillandopenthemcarefullytoprotectyourselffromhotsteamescaping.Placetheromaineheartsonaplatterandpourthetomatoesoverthem.Squeezethelemonandlimehalvesoverallandserveimmediately.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUE

Caramelizing citrus fruit Citrus fruits have natural sugarsthatcaramelizewhenheated, intensifyingthebrightflavorsofthefruit.Grillinghalvedcitrusfruitscutsidedownallowsthisprocesstooccur.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Youcanpreparethetomatopacketsafewhoursbeforeyouplan on grilling them. Otherwise this should be preparedimmediatelybeforeserving.

Sugarcane-SkeweredShrimpwithCoconut-LimeGlaze

SUGARCANE-SKEWEREDSHRIMPwithCoconut-LimeGlaze

I love to start a cookout with skewers of shrimp. Because thesemeatymorselscookinlessthan8minutes,youcanofferyourguestsafreshlygrilledappetizerinnotime.Thefreshsugarcaneservesasanunexpectedspear,whiletheglazeisperfectlybalancedbetweensweet coconut and tart lime. Small skewers thatmeasure about 5inches longandhold2shrimpmake theperfectappetizer serving.Serves8

Coconut-LimeGlaze1½cupscoconutmilk¾cupcreamofcoconut¾cuplimejuice(from6to8limes)¼teaspooncayennepepper½teaspoonsalt

3poundslargeshrimp,peeledanddeveined16(5-inch)sugarcaneskewersSaltandblackpepper3limes,cutintowedges

PREPARETHEGLAZEPlacealltheglazeingredientsinamediumsaucepanandbring to a boil over medium-high heat (make sure you have enoughspaceinthetopofthepotasthemixturewillbubble).Lowertheheattomedium and cook for 25 minutes, or until the mixture is reduced bytwo-thirds.Itwilltakeonadarktancolor.Stirintermittentlytopreventthemixturefromstickingtothebottomofthepot.Setaside.

PREPARETHESHRIMPSkewerabout2shrimpontoeachsugarcanespear.Iftheskewers aren’t sharp enough you may need to make small incisionsthroughtheshrimpwithathinknife.

GLAZE AND GRILL THE SHRIMPHeatyourgrill tohigh (550°F)andclose the lid.Waitatleast15minutesbeforecontinuing.Seasontheshrimpalloverwithsaltandpepperandslatherglazeoverallsidesaswell.Oilthegrillgrateswithavegetableoil–soakedpapertowelheldwithalongpairoftongs.Place the shrimp skewers on the grill and keep the lid open so theshrimpdon’tovercookbeforethesugarsintheglazecaramelize.Grilltheshrimpforabout4minutesperside,bastingasitcookswithmoreglaze.Theshrimparereadywhentheyturnopaqueandtheglazebeginstocaramelize.

SERVE Arrange the shrimp skewers on a platter and serve with limewedgestosqueezeovertheshrimp.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

SugarcaneThishard,fibrousgrasshasaninedibleskinthatmust be peeled off before the moist beige flesh can bechewed (though even the sweet, tough flesh is notswallowed).Seebelowforhowtomakesugarcaneskewers.If you cannot find sugarcane, substitute small wooden ormetal skewers, making sure to soak the wooden onesthoroughlybeforeusing.CoconutmilkCoconutmilk isa liquidmadebysimmeringshredded coconut in an equal amount of water and thenstraining it. For best results, use the full-fat variety ofcoconutmilk—thelow-fatkindhasamuchmilderflavor.CreamofcoconutThisisacommerciallyproducedcanned

condiment made of sweetened coconut cream. Coconutcream, which is thicker than coconut milk, is made bysimmeringfourpartsshreddedcoconutwithonepartwaterand then straining it. Creamof coconut is one of themainingredientsinpiñacoladas.

TECHNIQUE

MakingsugarcaneskewersWhileyoumaybeabletofindsugarcanethatistrimmedandreadytouseasskewers,youmayonlyfindawholepieceoffreshsugarcanetoworkwith.Toconvertthecanetoskewers,firstcutitcrosswiseinto9-inch-long pieces using a large, sharp chef’s knife. Then cuteach piece lengthwise in half, and then in half again or inthirds to create 4 or 6 long, wedge-shaped pieces. Finally,use a paring knife to trim one end of each skewer into asharppoint.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The coconut glaze can bemade a fewhours in advance; itcanstayoutatroomtemperatureforafewhoursorkeptinthe refrigerator. If refrigerated, bring the glaze to roomtemperaturebeforeusing.Theshrimpcanbeskewered, leftunseasoned,andkeptrefrigeratedafewhoursinadvance.

Charcoal-GrilledSkewersofSteak,Sausage&Chicken

CHARCOAL-GRILLEDSKEWERSOFSTEAK,SAUSAGE&CHICKEN

{CHURRASCADA}

I have to say that one of my favorite culinary aromas is that ofcharcoalburninginagrill.AndwhileIamoftenguiltyofturningtotheconvenienceofthegasgrill,whenIhaveabitmoretimeIliketo bring out the charcoal and grill over fire. The added effort isminimalincomparisontotheadded“oomph”youwillget—andthisisonerecipewherecharcoalmakesarealdifference.In Brazil, an invitation to a churrascadais an invitation to a

grillingfeast,whereitisverycommontohavecharcoal-grilledmeatseasoned onlywith rock salt. Traditionally, the cut of beef that isservedisthepicanha(pee-KAHN-yah).Theexactcutisnotavailablein the U.S., but it is similar to top sirloin. These 2-inch bonelesssteaks are curled into a letterC formation and speared onto largemetalskewers,asyouwoulddotoshrimp,whichissaidtokeepthemeatmoist. The salt perfectly seasons themeat, allowing its pureflavors to stand out. Iwas apprehensive the first time I tried thissuper-simpletechnique,butnowI’maconvert.Ifyouaremaking this recipeaspartofawholemenu inwhich

you’llbegrillingother foodsonyourgasgrill, it’s fine togowithgasheretoo.Serves8

1poundhangersteak1poundbeefsirloin1poundboneless,skinlesschickenbreasts1poundfreshchorizoRocksalt

PREPARETHECHARCOALGRILLLightyourcharcoalandwaitforabout80percentof the coals to ash before spreading them out evenly over your lowergrate.Spreadalightcoatingofvegetableoiloveryourtopgrateandsetitinplace.

SKEWERTHEMEATInthemeantime,prepareyourmeat.Cutthehangersteakand sirloin crosswise into2-inch chunks. Slice the chickenbreasts intolargechunksandleavethechorizowhole.Skewerthebeef,chicken,andchorizoontolargemetalskewers.

SEASON AND GRILL THE MEAT Season the hanger steak, sirloin, and chickenliberally with rock salt by sprinkling the salt over themeat and thenpatting it inwithyourhands.Place the skewerson thegrateandgrilluntil the chicken and chorizo are cooked through; thiswill dependontheintensityoftheheatfromthecharcoalbutshouldtakeabout20to25minutes.Grillthehangersteakandsirloinuntilitreachesthedesireddoneness.

RESTTHEMEATTHENSERVERemovethecookedmeatsfromthegrillandallowtorest for5minutesbefore serving.Place the skewersona large servingplatter or bigwooden cutting board and allowyour guests to slice offtheirmeat.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Rock salt This salt comes in chunky crystals that aretypically placed in salt grinders. Make sure to use thenatural, food-gradevarietyandnot theoneusedforsaltingdriveways or for making ice cream, as those salt crystalscontainimpurities.Donotbealarmedbythesizeof thesaltcrystals. Itmayseemasifyouareoversalting,butyouarenot.Thecrystalsare so large that theywillnot completelydissolveandwilleventuallyfalloffthemeat.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The meat can be cut and skewered a couple of hours inadvance and left refrigerated. Bring to room temperaturebeforegrilling.Donotseasonwithsaltuntilreadytogrill.

SMOKEDPAPRIKAOIL

This is agreatoil todrizzleongrilledvegetables andmeats, as itimparts a smoky flavorwhile adding a touch ofmoistness. It’s aneasy andquickway toperkupyour grilleddishes.A little goes alongwayand,ifyouareluckyenoughtohavesomeleftover,itwillkeepforafewweeks.Makes½cup

½cupgrapeseedoilorotherneutraloil1tablespoonsmokedpaprika

INFUSETHEOILPlacetheoilinasmallsaucepanandsetoververylowheat.Addthepaprikaandstir.Allowthemixturetositovertheheat for15minutes.Turnofftheheatandallowtheoilmixturetositinthepanfor1hour.

STRAINTHEOILPlaceacoffeefilteroverthetopofaglass.Flipthetopofthefilteroverthelipoftheglasssothatthefilterstayssecureatoptheglass.Pourtheoilintothefilter,beingcarefulnottoallowtheoiltooverflow.Allowtheoiltostrainthroughthefilter.Thiswillbeaslowprocess,

takingabout20minutes.Transferthestrainedoiltoabowlorasqueezebottle for serving.Touse,pass theoil around the tableanddrizzleonthemeatasacondiment.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

GrapeseedoilWhenpreparinganinfusedoil,itiscrucialtouse a neutral oil that imparts no flavor of its own, whichwouldcloudtheessenceofthespice.Grapeseedoil,whichisextractedfromtheseedsofwinegrapes,isoneofthemost

neutralandclean-tastingoils.

TECHNIQUE

Infusing oil This technique can be used with other spicessuchascurryorchilepowder.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The oil can be made well in advance and stored in anairtight containerorbottle forup to2 to3weeks at roomtemperature.

HOTPEPPER&LIMESAUCE

{MOLHODEPIMIENTAELIMÃO}

This salsalike raw sauce, molho de pimienta e limão, is a staplecondimentinBrazilandisalwaysservedwithgrilledmeats.Itskickof heat plays against the tang of the lime juice. So simple yet sointense!Makesabout1½cups

1clovegarlic,peeledandcrushed½teaspoonsalt4to6malaguetapeppers,stemmedandchopped½onion,veryfinelychopped(½cup)½cuplimejuice(from4or5limes)

CREATE A GARLIC PASTE Place the crushed garlic clove on your cutting boardandsprinklethesaltoverit.Waitaminuteorsountilthegarlicreleasessomemoisture.Holdingyourknifebladealmostparallel to thecuttingboard, scrape the blade over the chopped garlic. Repeat thismotion afewtimesuntil thegarlichasbecomeasemisoftpaste.Placethegarlicpasteinasmallmixingbowl.

COMBINEALLTHEINGREDIENTSANDSERVEPlacealltheremainingingredientsinthebowlwiththegarlicandcombinewell.Serveandenjoy.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

Malagueta peppers These very small, spicy red chiles areoftenfoundpackedinabottleofvinegar.TheyareavailableinLatinmarketsoronline. Suitable substitutes areTabasco

peppers,whicharealsosoldbottledinvinegar;birdorThaichiles; or serrano chiles. In the case of the latter two, useonlyoneortwochiles,astheyareconsiderablyhotterthanmalaguetas.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thissaucecanbemadeinadvanceandkeptrefrigeratedforup to 4 days. After that the lime may begin to take on abitterflavor.

YUCASOUFFLÉ{SUFLÉDEYUCA}

Don’t let the word souffléscare you.While this is made using thetraditional soufflé method, it is served as a fallen soufflé, whichmeans there is no stress involved inmaking sure it gets served intime.What youdo get is a light and fluffy dish of yuca (cassava)that captures the tuber’s sweet, nutty flavor. As is the case withmostrootvegetablesidedishes,thisgoeswithalmostanything.It’sbecomemynewalternativetorice.Serves8

1poundyuca,peeledanddiced½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,plusmoreforgreasingthepan,atroomtemperatureSalt

½cupmilk,atroomtemperature4eggs,separated

BOILTHEYUCAPlacetheyucainapotofsaltedboilingwaterandcookuntilfork tender, about 20minutes. The boiling liquid will have thickenedandturnedslightlyopaque.Draintheyucaandplaceitinalargemixingbowl.

PREHEATTHEOVENANDPREPARETHEPANPreheattheovento350°F.Greasea9-inchroundorsquarebakingdishwithbutter.Setaside.

PREPARETHEYUCAMASHWithaforkorpotatomasher,mashtheyucawellandmixinthebutterand1teaspoonofsalt.While it’sokayifyouleaveafewlumps,youwanttotrytogetthemashassmoothasyoucan.Themixturewillseemverygelatinous.Pourinthemilkandstiruntilalltheliquidhasbeenincorporatedandthemixturebeginstolooklikegummymashedpotatoes.Tasteforseasoningandaddmoresaltifnecessary.Stirtheeggyolksintothemash.Setaside.

WHIPTHEEGGWHITESANDFOLDTHEMINUsingahandheldorstandmixerwiththewhisk attachment, beat the egg whites at high speed until stiff peaksform,about4minutes.Usingarubberspatula,fold¼ofthebeateneggwhitesintotheyucamash.Carefullyfoldintheremainingeggwhitesuntiljustincorporated,making sure to mix gently to maintain the volume of the beaten eggwhites.

BAKE THE SOUFFLé AND SERVE Pour the yucamixture into the prepared bakingdish and bake for 30minutes, or until a skewer inserted in its centercomesoutclean.Thesouffléwillbepuffedandlightlybrowned.Thesouffléwillsinkabitafteritisremovedfromtheoven.Servebyslicingwedgesorscoopingouthelpingswithalargespoon.

COOKINGNOTESINGREDIENTS

YucaAlsocalledcassava,manioc,ormandioca,yuca(YOO-kah) is an elongated root vegetablewith a very tough andinedible brown skin and milky white flesh. It is high instarch andhas aneutral flavor. It is used tomake tapioca.Yucacanbepurchasedfreshor frozen. Inthe lattercase, itcomes peeled. If using frozen yuca in this recipe, thaw atroomtemperaturebeforeboiling.

TECHNIQUE

Peeling yuca Yuca has a very thick skin that is usuallywaxed. I find the easiest way of removing the skin is byslicing it off with a knife (rather than using a vegetablepeeler).Youmaynoticearedtingetothefleshoftheyucathatsitsdirectlyunder theskin. I tend tocut thatoff,as itwill discolor the dish.When cutting up the yuca, youmayalsonoticesomegraystreaksintheflesh.Thesearenaturalanddonotaffecttheflavorortextureofthevegetable.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Thisrecipecanbemadeafewhoursinadvanceandleftoutatroomtemperature.

BLACKBEAN,BACON&RICESALAD

Feijoada(feh-shoo-AH-dah)isatypicalBrazilianstewpreparedwithblackbeansandsmokedporkandaccompaniedbywhiterice.Thisrecipe takes those flavors and lightens them up, in the form of acoldricesalad.Becausethesalad’sbrightflavorsarebestenjoyedatroomtemperature,itisagreatdishtoservewhenentertaininglargecrowds, as it can be made well in advance and left covered in aservingbowl.Serves8to10

¾poundbacon(about18slices),chopped3cupscookedwhiteorbrownrice,cooled2(15½-ouncecans)blackbeans,drainedandrinsed2redbellpeppers,seededandchopped4greenonions,trimmed,halvedlengthwiseandthinlysliced4plumtomatoes,cored,seedsremoved,anddiced2cupslightlypackedcilantroleavesandtenderstems,chopped,plusafewsprigsforgarnishJuiceof2limes(about3tablespoons)

⅓cupredwinevinegar¼cupextra-virginoliveoilSaltandblackpepper

FRYTHEBACONPlacethebaconinadrysautépanovermedium-highheat.Sauté the bacon until it renders its fat and turns crispy and goldenbrown,about8minutes.Removethebaconfromthepananddrainonapapertowel–lineddish.

MIX THE RICE SALAD AND DRESS IT In a large bowl combine the rice, beans, red

peppers,greenonions,tomatoes,andcilantroandmixwell.Pourthelimejuice,vinegar,andoiloverthesaladandtosswell.

GARNISHAND SERVECrushthebaconintosmallbite-sizepiecesandtoss intothe salad. Transfer the salad to a serving bowl, garnish with cilantrosprigs,andserve.

COOKINGNOTESTECHNIQUES

Cookingwhite rice Rice is cooked by simmering the rawgrains in salted water. To make 3 cups of cooked rice,combine1½cupslong-grainwhiterice,3cupsofwater,and½teaspoonofsaltinamediumsaucepanorpot,bringtoaboil,cover,reducetoasimmer,andcookfor25minutesoruntilthewaterisallabsorbedandthericeistender.(Thesequantitiescaneasilybedoubledorhalvedasneeded.)UsingleftoverriceLeftoverplaincookedriceworksverywellwiththis recipe. Just warm the rice as instructed below inAdvancePreparationandcontinuewiththerecipe.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

Ifyouwouldliketomakethisrecipeinadvance,preparetheelements (bacon, rice, andbeanmixture) as instructed, butdo not mix them together. Store in separate airtightcontainers in the refrigerator. When ready to serve, warmthericebysprinklingalittlewateroveritandplacinginthemicrowave for 30 seconds or heating in a pot on thestovetop.After the rice has beenwarmed,mix in the beanmixtureandthebacon.

COCONUTCUPCAKES

InBrazil,sweetcoconutconfectionscalledcocadasareverypopular:coconutflakesarecookedinmilkandsugarandformedintoballs.This dessert takes the fundamental flavors and textures of thatdessertandrepackagesthemintoaverylightyetlusciouscupcake.Makes24cupcakes

3sticks(1½cups)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature2cupssugar4eggs3cupsall-purposeflour1tablespoonbakingpowder1teaspoonsalt1(13½-ounce)cancoconutmilk1tablespoonvanillaextract2cupssweetenedshreddedcoconutflakes

Meringue4eggwhites1cupsugarPinchofsalt

PREHEATTHEOVENANDPREPARETHEBATTERPreheattheovento325°F.Linethecupsoftwo12-cupcupcakepanswithpaperliners.Setaside.Using a standmixer or handheld electricmixer beat the butter and

sugar together on high speed until smooth, about 2minutes. Add theeggsandbeatforanother3minutesathighspeed,untilthemixtureislightandfluffy,scrapingthebottomofthebowlasnecessary.

Inaseparatebowl,combinetheflour,bakingpowder,andsaltandstirwellwithawhiskorfork.Inanewbowl,combinethecoconutmilkandvanillaextractandmixwell.Addabout¼oftheflourmixtureand¼ofthe coconut milk mixture to the butter and egg mixture and beat onmedium speed until combined. Continue adding the flourmixture andthe coconut milk mixture in batches until all the ingredients arecombined. Turn the mixer off and, using a wooden spoon or rubberspatula,gentlyfoldin1cupoftheshreddedcoconutflakes.

BAKETHECUPCAKESTransferthecakebattertoaliquidmeasuringcupforeasypouringandfillthecupcakeliners¾ofthewayfull.Bakethecupcakesfor30minutes,oruntilatoothpickorskewerinsertedinthecenterofacakecomesoutclean.Notethatthetopswillbeabitpale.Allow the cupcakes to cool in the pan for 15minutes. Transfer thecupcakestoacoolingrackandallowtocoolforanother15minutes.

TOASTTHECOCONUTWhilethecupcakesarecooling,spreadtheremainingcupofcoconutflakesinasinglelayeronabakingsheet.Toastinthe325°Fovenfor7minutes,stirtheflakesabit,andtoastforanother5minutes,or until most of the flakes are golden brown. Stay close to the ovenduringthelast5minutes,astheflakescanquicklyburn.Removefromtheovenandsetaside.

PREPARETHEMERINGUEPlacetheeggwhites,sugar,andsaltintheworkbowlof a stand mixer or a metal mixing bowl and set it over a pot ofsimmeringwater.Stiruntilthesugarisdissolvedandtheeggwhitesarewarmtothetouch,about4minutes.Themixturewillbeabitfrothyandmilkyincolor.Removethebowl fromthepotandbeatonhighspeeduntil theeggwhites are stiff and glossy, about 5minutes. (If you are using a standmixer, beat with thewhisk attachment.) ASSEMBLE THE CUPCAKES Spread themeringue over the cupcakes and garnish eachwith a sprinkling of thetoastedcoconutflakes.

COOKINGNOTES

INGREDIENTS

CoconutmilkItisimportanttouseregularcoconutmilkinthis recipe and not the light variety. The coconut flavor isnotasintenseinthelightvariety,andthelowerfatcontentwouldproduceadriercake.

TECHNIQUE

Making Swiss meringue The meringue used here, calledSwissmeringue, isoftenusedasa toppingoncakes. It isasoftmeringue that is glossyand stable,meaning itwillnoteasilylosevolume.Thestabilityisachievedbydissolvingthesugarintheeggwhitesbeforetheyarebeaten.To tell if the sugar has dissolved, rub some of the eggwhitebetweenyourfingers.Ifyoufeelgrit,thesugarhasnotcompletelydissolvedyet.The eggwhites will become glossy soon after you beginbeating them. However, continue beating for a few moreminutes to achieve full volume. The result will look likesmoothlymeltedmarshmallows.

ADVANCEPREPARATION

The cupcakes can bemade a day in advance. It is best toassemble them the day they will be served so that thetoastedcoconutwillstaycrispy.However,notethatastheysit for more than a few hours, themeringue will begin todevelopaverynicecrunchyoutershell.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Althoughonlyonenameappearsonthecoverofthiscookbook,ittookmanymoretocompleteit.Toallofyou,¡MuchasGracias!

FORYOURINSPIRATIONTomygrandfatherJuanCastro,agreatCubancookwhostillcookslargefamily meals (and sends me fresh sugar cane, which he grows in hisbackyard).ToKaterinaCardoso,PamelaFuertes, JuliaBrown,ErnaniAssunção,

Carola Castro Nuñez, and Osvaldo Ramos, a few of my friends andfamilywhohailfromvariouspartsofLatinAmerica.Althoughyoumaybe surprised to see your names here, when I asked a question youanswered,andforthatIameternallygrateful.Tomy nieces and nephew, Nikki, Alex, and Andy Ramos, for being

greattastersandlovingmymistakesasmuchasmysuccesses.(GigiandSofie,Iknowyouwouldhavedonethesame.)FORYOURHELPTomyagent,BobSilverstein,andallthoseatTenSpeed,NancyAustin,KatyBrown,MelissaMoore,andClancyDrake.TomyteamatBullfrog&Baum,PamelaSpiegel,JonathanKreissman

andCameronLevkoff.To Anne Mortillaro for your generosity with the garden, and Lois

Tiloccaforyourtirelessassistance.

FORYOURENCOURAGEMENTTomysisters,AlinaRamosandYviGarcia, for indulgingmyobsessivenatureandneversayingno.ToDulcyBenson,FrankieDeCarlo,MannyGarcia,andOzzieRamos—

directlyandindirectlyyou’vehadyourhandinthis.To my parents, Alina and Fausto Gomez and Alfredo and Georgina

Castro,forallyoursupport.

ToGerardMortillaro,foreverything.

INDEX

AAchioteseeds.SeeAnnattoseedsAjiamarillo,6.1,6.2AjidegallinaAlfajorgiganteAnchochilesAnchoChilePasteChileRub

AnnattoseedsAchioteMarinade

AnticuchosArepasArrozconcocoArugulaArugula-,Garlic-,andGreenOnion–StuffedFlankSteakArugulaSaladwithCrunchyCharredPotatoes

AsparagusChar-GrilledVegetables

AvocadosAvocadoSaladChile-RubbedTunaSteakwithAvocadoandLimeChipotleGuacamoleCrab,AvocadoandPotatoTerrineCreamyFreshTomatilloSauce

preparing,1.1,2.1ShrimpCevicheTangyAvocadoSauceTraditionalGuacamolevarietiesof,1.1,4.1

BBaconBacon-WrappedScallopswithCharredCornSalsaBeer-StewedBeanswithChilesBlackBean,BaconandRiceSaladRiceCookedinBlackBeansRiceCookedinRedBeansBananaleavesAchiote-MarinatedChickenWrappedinBananaLeavesYucatecanBarbecuePorkSpareribsBasilchiffonadeBeansBeer-StewedBeanswithChilesBlackBean,BaconandRiceSaladRiceCookedinBlackBeansRiceCookedinRedBeanssaltingsoakingBeefArugula-,Garlic-,andGreenOnion–StuffedFlankSteakBeefEmpanadasBountyofWood-SmokedMeatsCharcoal-GrilledSkewersofSteak,SausageandChickenChipotle-RubbedSkirtSteakTacos

ChorizoSliderswithGuavaKetchupCoffee-RubbedCowboyRib-EyesNicaraguanGrilledSkirtSteakSalt-CrustedBeefTenderloinCharredinClothSoy-andChile-MarinatedBeefSkewersBeerBeerCocktailBeer-StewedBeanswithChilesBellpeppersBlackBean,BaconandRiceSaladChar-GrilledVegetablesMushroomCevicheRiceCookedinBlackBeansRiceCookedinRedBeansSavoryCornPuddingBerries,MeringueCakewithDulcedeLecheandBeveragesBeerCocktailCaipiroskaFrozenLimeadeMargaritaMargaritaMojitoPiscoSourRumandGuavaCoolerWhiteWineSpritzersBread.SeealsoSandwichesCubanGrilledChorizoSkewerswithCrustyBreadGrilledRosemaryFlatbread

ButterRumCakewithLimeIcing

CCaipiroskaCajetaCajetaButtercream

CakesButterRumCakewithLimeIcingDulcedeLecheCookieCakeMeringueCakewithDulcedeLecheandBerriesThreeMilksCake

CarrotsChar-GrilledVegetables

CausalimeñaCevicheFreshFishCevichewithGingerandChileMushroomCevicheShrimpCevichetipsfor

CevichedecamaronesCevichedehongoCevichedepescadoCharcoal,grillingwithCheeseChipotle-RubbedSkirtSteakTacosCornmeal-CheesePancakesGrilledCornontheCobwithChipotleCremaandQuesoFrescoGrilledCubanSandwichGrilledProvoloneCheeseGrilledQuesadillaswithCharredPoblanoandJalapeñoChiles

HuancainaSaucemanchegoMedianocheSandwichMontereyJackOlives,CheeseandSpanishChorizoprovolonequesofrescoSaladofMarinatedCheese,OlivesandTomatoesChickenAchiote-MarinatedChickenWrappedinBananaLeavesBountyofWood-SmokedMeatsBrownSugar–CrustedGrilledChickenCharcoal-GrilledSkewersofSteak,SausageandChickenChickenSkewerswithSpicyYellowChileSauceCitrus-andOregano-MarinatedSplitChickensplittingwholeChileanHotPepperSalsaChiles.SeeindividualchilesChimichurriChipotlechiles,1.1,1.2cannedChile-MarinatedPorkTacoswithPineappleSalsaChileRubChipotleChileRubChipotleCremaChipotleGuacamoleChipotle-RubbedSkirtSteakTacosChocolateMexicanChocolateCupcakeswithCajetaButtercream

VenezuelanChocolatePuddingwithEspressoCreamChoripanChorizo.SeeSausageChurrascadaChurrasconicaragüenseCitrusfruits.SeealsoindividualfruitscaramelizingCitrusandOreganoMarinadeCitrusGarlicMarinade,4.1,4.2juice,freezing

ClamsandChorizo,GrilledCocoapowderCoconutCoconutCupcakesCoconut-LimeGlazeCoconutRicecreamofmilk,5.1,10.1

CoffeeCoffeeRubEspressoCreamespressopowder,instant

CointreauFrozenLimeadeMargaritaMargarita

CornBacon-WrappedScallopswithCharredCornSalsaCornmeal-CheesePancakesGrilledCornandQuinoaSalad

GrilledCornontheCobwithChipotleCremaandQuesoFrescoremovingsilksfromroastingSavoryCornPudding

CostillitaspibilCrabCrab,AvocadoandPotatoTerrineLime-MarinatedShrimpandCrabCocktail

Cream,whippingCrema,1.1,1.2,3.1ChipotleCrema

CubanGrilledPorkCucumbersFreshRadishandCucumberSaladLime-MarinatedShrimpandCrabCocktailMixedGreenSaladseeding

CupcakesCoconutCupcakesMexicanChocolateCupcakeswithCajetaButtercream

Curantoaldisco

DDessertsButterRumCakewithLimeIcingCoconutCupcakesDulcedeLecheCookieCakeDulcedeLecheFlanGrilledPineappleSkewersandPineappleIceGrilledRipePlantainswithCrema

MeringueCakewithDulcedeLecheandBerriesMexicanChocolateCupcakeswithCajetaButtercreamPeruvianCaramelMeringueThreeMilksCakeVenezuelanChocolatePuddingwithEspressoCreamDonenesstipsDulcedelecheDulcedeLecheCookieCakeDulcedeLecheFlanmakingMeringueCakewithDulcedeLecheandBerries

EEggsDulcedeLecheFlanMeringueCakewithDulcedeLecheandBerriesPeruvianCaramelMeringuetemperingYucaSouffléElotealaparillaEmpanadasBeefEmpanadascommercialdoughforSausageandMushroomEmpanadasEndive,GreenOnionsandTomatoes,GrilledEnsaladadeaguacateEspresso.SeeCoffee

FFish

Chile-RubbedTunaSteakwithAvocadoandLimeFreshFishCevichewithGingerandChileGrilledMahi-mahiwithMangoSalsagrillingWoodPlank–GrilledHalibutFlan,DulcedeLecheFlare-ups,fm.1,7.1FlavorinjectorsFletánalaparrillaFritacubanaFrostingsandicingsCajetaButtercreamLimeIcingFuentedecamaronesalajillo

GGallopintoGarlicArugula-,Garlic-,andGreenOnion–StuffedFlankSteakBrownSugar–CrustedGrilledChickenChileanHotPepperSalsaCitrusGarlicMarinade,4.1,4.2FreshParsleySauceMojopasteGas,grillingwithGlazesusingGrates,oilingGreenonions

Arugula-,Garlic-,andGreenOnion–StuffedFlankSteakCharredGreenOnionsGrilledEndive,GreenOnionsandTomatoes

Grillingwithcharcoalwithgastipswithwood

GrilltoppersGuacamoleChipotleGuacamoleTraditionalGuacamole

GuavaGuavaKetchupjuiceRumandGuavaCooler

HHabanerochilesFieryTomatoSalsaSpicyYellowChileSauce

HalibutFreshFishCevichewithGingerandChileWoodPlank–GrilledHalibut

HamGrilledCubanSandwichMedianocheSandwich

HoneyHoney–AppleCiderVinegarGlazeHoney-LimeGlaze

HuancainaSauceHumitadeolla

IIcings.SeeFrostingsandicings

JJalapeñochilesBeer-StewedBeanswithChilesFieryTomatoSalsaGrilledQuesadillaswithCharredPoblanoandJalapeñoChilesLime-MarinatedShrimpandCrabCocktailMangoSalsa

JicamaCrunchyJicamaandLimeSaladpeelingandcutting

LLechedetigreLechonasadoLemonsGrilledEndive,GreenOnionsandTomatoesgrilling,7.1,8.1

LettuceGrilledSaladMixedGreenSaladSaladofMarinatedCheese,OlivesandTomatoestearing

LimesCaipiroskaChile-RubbedTunaSteakwithAvocadoandLime

CitrusandOreganoMarinadeCitrusGarlicMarinade,4.1,4.2Coconut-LimeGlazeCrunchyJicamaandLimeSaladFieryTomatoSalsaFreshFishCevichewithGingerandChileFrozenLimeadeMargaritaGrilledCornandQuinoaSaladHotPepperandLimeSauceLimeIcingLime-MarinatedShrimpandCrabCocktailMangoSalsaMargaritaMojitoMojoMushroomCevicheShrimpCeviche

Lomoaltrapo

MMadurosalaparrillaconcremaMahialaparrillaconsalsademangoMahi-mahiFreshFishCevichewithGingerandChileGrilledMahi-mahiwithMangoSalsa

MalaguetapeppersHotPepperandLimeSauce

MangoeschoppingMangoSalsa

MargaritaFrozenLimeadeMargarita

Marinadesusing

MariscosenescabecheMatambreMedianocheSandwichMeringuecaramelizingMeringueCakewithDulcedeLecheandBerriesPeruvianCaramelMeringueSwiss

MexicanChocolateCupcakeswithCajetaButtercreamMicheladaMojitoMojoMolcajetesMolhodepimientaelimâoMorosycristianosMushroomsMushroomCevicheSausageandMushroomEmpanadas

NNicaraguanGrilledSkirtSteak

OOilgrapeseedinfusing

SmokedPaprikaOilOlivesOlives,CheeseandSpanishChorizoSaladofMarinatedCheese,OlivesandTomatoes

Onions.SeealsoGreenonionsChar-GrilledVegetablesMarinatedRedOnionsmarinatingslicing

OrangesAchioteMarinadeCitrusandOreganoMarinadeCitrusGarlicMarinade,4.1,4.2MojoMushroomCevicheSeville,4.1,6.1

PPancettaCharredPotatoesandPancetta

PanetelaborrachaPankoPapasalahuancainaPaprikaSmokedPaprikaOil

ParchmentroundsParrillada:tiradeasado,entraña,polloParsleySauce,FreshPeruvianCaramelMeringuePicaditadequesoychorizo

PicodegalloPineapplechoosingGrilledPineappleSkewersandPineappleIcePineappleSalsaPiping,1.1,4.1PiscoPiscoSourPlanks,wooden,fm.1,fm.2,9.1PlantainsGrilledRipePlantainsGrilledRipePlantainswithCremastagesofPlátanosmadurosalaparrillaPoblanochilesBeer-StewedBeanswithChilesGrilledQuesadillaswithCharredPoblanoandJalapeñoChilesPolloasadonegroPolloenteroadobadoconjugocitricoyoreganoPollopibilPork.SeealsoBacon;Ham;Pancetta;SausageChile-MarinatedPorkTacoswithPineappleSalsaChorizoSliderswithGuavaKetchupCubanGrilledPorkGrilledCubanSandwichMedianocheSandwichYucatecanBarbecuePorkSpareribsPotatoesArugulaSaladwithCrunchyCharredPotatoes

boilingCharredPotatoesandPancettaCrab,AvocadoandPotatoTerrinePotatoSticksRoastedPotatoeswithHuancainaSauceYukongoldProvoletaPuddingsSavoryCornPuddingVenezuelanChocolatePuddingwithEspressoCream

QQuesadillas,Grilled,withCharredPoblanoandJalapeñoChilesQuesadillasderajasQuinoacookingGrilledCornandQuinoaSalad

RRadishandCucumberSalad,FreshRiceBlackBean,BaconandRiceSaladCoconutRicecookingwhiteRiceCookedinBlackBeansRiceCookedinRedBeansRosemaryGrilledRosemaryFlatbreadRubsusingRum

RumButterRumCakewithLimeIcingMojitoRumandGuavaCoolerRumSyrup

SSaladdressingscreatingemulsifiedSherryVinaigretteSaladsArugulaSaladwithCrunchyCharredPotatoesAvocadoSaladBlackBean,BaconandRiceSaladCrunchyJicamaandLimeSaladFreshRadishandCucumberSaladGrilledCornandQuinoaSaladGrilledSaladMixedGreenSaladSaladofMarinatedCheese,Olives&TomatoesSalsaguascaSalsapebreSalsapicaSalt,rockSandwichcubanoSandwichesChorizoSliderswithGuavaKetchupGrilledCubanSandwichMedianocheSandwichSaucesandsalsasSausage

Charcoal-GrilledSkewersofSteak,SausageandChickenchorizo,7.1,7.2ChorizoSliderswithGuavaKetchupGrilledChorizoSkewerswithCrustyBreadGrilledClamsandChorizoOlives,CheeseandSpanishChorizoSausageandMushroomEmpanadasScallops,Bacon-Wrapped,withCharredCornSalsaSerranochilesChileanHotPepperSalsaChile-MarinatedPorkTacoswithPineappleSalsaSpicyYellowChileSauceTangyAvocadoSauceSherryVinaigretteShrimpbutterflying,2.1,6.1Lime-MarinatedShrimpandCrabCocktailPlatterofShrimpwithGarlickyCubanMojoShrimpCevicheSugarcane-SkeweredShrimpwithCoconut-LimeGlazeSkewerssoakingwooden,fm.1,6.1sugarcaneSliders,Chorizo,withGuavaKetchupSoufflé,YucaSoyMarinadeSuflédeyucaSugarcane-SkeweredShrimpwithCoconut-LimeGlazeSuspirodelimeñaSweetpotatoes

SweetpotatoesFreshFishCevichewithGingerandChile

SyrupsRumSyrupsimple,2.1,6.1

TTacosassemblingChile-MarinatedPorkTacoswithPineappleSalsaChipotle-RubbedSkirtSteakTacoschoppingmeatfor

TacosalcarbonconchipotleTacosalpastorTequilaFrozenLimeadeMargaritaMargarita

Terrine,Crab,AvocadoandPotatoThermometersThreeMilksCakeThymeTomatillosCharredTomatilloSaucecleaningCreamyFreshTomatilloSauceFreshTomatilloSauce

TomatoesBacon-WrappedScallopswithCharredCornSalsaBeer-StewedBeanswithChilesBlackBean,BaconandRiceSaladChileanHotPepperSalsa

ChunkyFreshTomatoSauceFieryTomatoSalsaFreshTomatoSalsaGrilledCornandQuinoaSaladGrilledEndive,GreenOnionsandTomatoesGrilledSaladLime-MarinatedShrimpandCrabCocktailMixedGreenSaladSaladofMarinatedCheese,Olives&Tomatoesseeding,1.1,2.1ShrimpCeviche

ToolsTortillasChile-MarinatedPorkTacoswithPineappleSalsaChipotle-RubbedSkirtSteakTacosGrilledQuesadillaswithCharredPoblanoandJalapeñoChiles

TreslechesTunaSteak,Chile-Rubbed,withAvocadoandLime

VVenezuelanChocolatePuddingwithEspressoCreamVinaigrettes.SeeSaladdressingsVodkaCaipiroska

WWineSpritzers,WhiteWood,grillingwith,fm.1,9.1

XXnipec

YYucapeelingYucaSoufflé

YucatecanBarbecuePorkSpareribs