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HE three popular and beautiful5 actresses who are pictured onS this page never need look for-JL ward to the time when the.v
will stop reigning in tha heartsof womankind. They could liold them for¬ever with only their perfect clothes as anattraction, for where could women findbetter entertainment than in analyzingthousand-dollar gowns and liundred-dol-lar hats? And is it not wonderful to be¬
hold Miss Lillian Rv s ll's r.sw Greuzecoiffure, the latest arrangement of the1hair approved by Parisians. w:th Its puffsthat encircle the back of the head inter¬woven with a blue ribbon that ties atone side of the head in a dainty upstand¬ing bow? Miss Russell is as famous forher many hats as she is for her goodlooks, and the charming pieca of head-gear she wears in the illustration is aFrench confection of green velvet drapedwith an exquisite shaded gTeen plume.Grace George, another favorite of the
footlights, is wearing a charming productof Mile. Carlier's art in the guise of ablack clipped beaver adorned with a mag-nifii'ent white willow feather. Quite In aclass by herself is that queen of lightopera. Edna Wallace Hopper, who affectsin her portrait one of the new theaterbonnets trimmed with ribbon and ros>*s.It is said that when this petite woman tiesher bonnet strings under her chin many-are the hearts of the young men that aretied within. ^Ono milliner who dwells with rapture
upon the new headdresses which ingeniousParis has Invented for theater wear saysthat it is in revenge for tha victory whichman achieved in the fight about theaterhats. "There was a long war waged overthe headgear." she says, "and man.forwomen seldom object to the size of otherwomen's hats.won with the help of thetheater managers. Women now havetheir revenge for this, thanks to Paris.No man can make a woman take off anevening headdress, and the new headdressbids fair to rival in height the evening
hat." One must wait and see. Probablymen and theater managers will find away to get around It.
Fifty Tips on Her Hat.Evening and restaurant hats always
represent an important item of the Paris-"tenne's outfit.A large cloche, which was immensely
long from back to front, was carried outin ivory poplin and wreathed with a thickfull ruche of undyed ostrich tips in beige
and white. sligTitly curled to give them atiuffy appearance and comprising fifty inall, these being piljd higher on the leftside than the right, while a huge pale pinkrose nestled among the fronds in the cen-ter of the front and a cachep'igne of cof¬fee colored tulle fell over the hair at theback.Simple and charming as this wonderful
erection might appear to the lay mind, theprice of it would have made our grand¬mothers cxclaim in pious horror, as much
as $100 worth of feathers alone being usedto form tlie wreath.
Just a Few Hata.The smart hats worn at present are
many In design and material. Those"molded over," as the phrase goes, withtheir fabrics are charming (especially Ifgreat care Is taken not to make them tooheavy.a fate which overtakes the feltand velvet hat very frequently). Therehave been some charming ivory hats ofthis d"Scription. notably one of dull moirein a deep grayish tone of cream, trimmedwith a great cluster of very soft feath¬ery black marabou. The lining w:is ofblack tulle. A chapeau of olive gr^en peaude sole is trimmed with olive and blackplumage and wings and lined with ivory,and a third mod"1 of several lovely shadesof saxo blue and mauve turning to gray ismolded of shot nmuve arid gray taft-tas.
The Small Kat loiter On.Those who can foresee the future say
that the small hat, but with a more orless big trimming, will arrive sooner orlater. An elegant model seen recently wasa small tricorne with a mass of plumage.a fantaisle, as they say in Paris.project¬ing from the sides. There is a lot of "out¬line" about those little hats with b!gtrimmings, and though they 111. y not Inimmediately a vogue they will cet th"irinnings sooner or later.* The little hat re¬fuses to poise witiU success on anythingbut a soft, loos> wealth of hair. but. ofcourse, given thai, its success is second tonone. ,But fashion is accommodating and sym¬
pathetic all the time. The higher crownedhats that arc longer from back to frontthan across the head make amends forskimpy front hair wonderfully well. Thereare two kinds of higher crowned hats justnow, one amazone and the other direc-toire, the latter with a brim that is al¬most as perpendicular as the crown andvery narrow. Both of these shapes aregenerally adorned with ostrich feathers,but some amazOnes have been very suc¬cessfully trimmed with bunches of quillsfastened in at the aide with a backwardmovement.
A New Toque.The newest in smart millinery Is the
broad velvet toque in n variety of shades,but chiefly in ruby and sapphire.lovelytints of red and blue.trimmed with aband of skunk or fox and a black aigret.Then there is the large velvet hat withthe velvet stretched tightly over the entireshape and a wonderful aigret in the sameshade. These aigrets cost sometimes $25or ?.">. 1907.SOCIETY here at the Ville Luml-
niere Is all agog over the uniquepartnership existing between Mme.Anna Gould and her intimatefriend, Mrs. Rutherford Stuyves-
int, who have planned a social campaignalong American lines.that of the smartN*ew York-Newport variety. And it issaid by those who have heard the plansJlscussed that they will inspire e.vtn theblasf old Faubourg set with some inter¬est In the game. It is the intention of:hese wealthy young matrons to give dur¬ing the season a series of dinners, ballsirid receptions that will rival in noveltysr.ii brilliance the salons of the Frenchleaders. In an4Jcipation of this social warthe magnificent palace of Mme. Gould,upjn which Count Boni spent so many ofhis wife's millions, has oeen in the handsr>: t.t'i decorators and is even loveliernow than when Mme. Anna's little powderCurt of a*t > x-husfcand was the lord andr.aster of this modern Trianon. The otherpartner, Mrs. Stuyvesant. will do thelienors at her chateau just\>utside Parisas hostess for the week-end parties of theril iu, and one can be assured that noveltywill not be lacking at these gatherings.Mrs. Stuyvesant. although accounted anAmerican society woman and a memberof Mrs. Astor's renowned Six Hundred,is a Hollander by birth and before shemarried her present husband was theCountess Matilde de Waseanaer, widow
of a Dutch nobleman. This campaignwould seem to discount the rumor thatMme. Anne Gould is again going to riskher luck in the matrimonial market bybuying some more stock in the Castellanefamily, represented by her husoand'scousin, Prince de Sagan.
Kiteflying Debutantes.Kiteflying just now is one of society's
diversions, and among Parisian debu¬tantes it has been taken up with a vim.As one girl said to me about the sport,"Kiteflying is splendid exercise for thefigure and gives you such a tine appetitefor breakfait. And a pretty sigVu wasthis girl flying her kite out in the Bois inthe early morning hours clad in a chicblue sweatsr, a navy blue short skirt,stout shoes with low heels, heavy graygloves and a blue and white tam-o'shan-ter on her fluffy, fair head. She certainlywas the embodiment of health, runningabout wherever the breezes elected tosend her paper kite. Children *nd theirbonnes were about the grounds playingthe fascinating and favorite game ofdiabolo, and the youngsters looked toocute for anything in their winter coatspatterned after those of the grown-ups.Rd is always a favorite color for the
small girl's raiment, and this season it ismore strongly in evident e than usual.Attractive coats of red broadcloth madein the long hox style, with an over-the-shoulder deep collar of black caracalcloth and big black jet buttons, is thei oat worn by the smartest Parisian chil-dren. The hat is either a large black
beaver with a slashing big l>ow of moir<ribbon or it is a .close-fitting tricern<trimmed with a military pompon. Ocourse this costume is merely o e foeveryday wear. The French child is neveoverdressed for any occasion, and eveithe young girls are simply gowned untithey "come out," and even then they dinot reach the height of all their sartoriaglory until they achieve the prefix madame to their names.The Patented Gown the Latest.The patented gown is the very lates
novelty in the fashion world. The greafashion artists are growing tired of seeing their ideas copied by artists who hav<less art and'originality to dispose of, antone of them has taken to patenting hi:best creations before launching themThere is hardly any doubt that his exampie will be followed by his i^ustrious fetlow couturiers. Whether they are patented or not. it is a very difficult matter tccopy the masterpieces of the Rue de IsPaix. Each couturier has his own par¬ticular knack, his especial chic, his pelsecret, and it is very hard to Imitate hitwork unless his imitator be endowed v.'itl'similar gifts. The big Parisian dress¬makers employ the most talented staff oldesigners, and no expense is foregone inthe way of experiments ar.d materials.The price of a Rue de 'a Paix gown mayat sight appear exorbitant, but little doesa customer know of the cost which it in¬volves. Between the design and the finish¬ed model and from the model to the cus¬toms s order may lie an outlay repre¬senting a small fortune. When every ex-pons . is taicn into consideration.rent,
AN EVENING GOWN, PICTURE FROCK AND WRAP BY ROUFF.
designers, fitters, cutters, tailors, worjigirls, manikins, saleswomen, material a. figure and reveals a daintily embroideredvest. The curve of the waist at the backmust be clearly Indicated in these coatsboth for day and evening wear. This isabsolutely necessary if the coat is to passmuster as of this season's date. The hor¬rible shapeless sack back is quite de modeand must not be confounded with theempire back, a very different story.
In spite of the vogue for envelopinggarments, the corset remains the founda¬tion for good dressing. It must be verysupple and woven to imitate knitting.The texture stretches perpendicularly andnot, of course, horizontaHy. Vv hatevermay be said to the contrary, tight lacingis not indulged in by the woman of fash¬ion. If possible the corset should be cut
to order, but very good ones are to befound in the shops. Whether the corsetshould be high or low depends entirelyon the wearer, and a good corset maker'sadvice silould be followed in the matter.Ab a rule, the best corsets over here arelow in the bust and deep on the hips. Ifa corset is not perfectly comfortable itshould not be worn. Comfort will almostalways insure elegance. The laces shouldbe wide open when the corsets are I it on,and they should be pulled down all roundand the suspenders fastened to the stock¬ings. Finally the laces should bo tied atthe back, as much space as possible beingleft above and below the waist. The lacesshould always be undone before re¬moving the corset or it will not remain ingood shape. A corset should be loose, nottight fitting, and, however loose it is, ifbadly cut and worn with broken or illplaced whalebones it may be very harm¬ful. CATHERINE TALBOT.
THREE-PIECE COSTUME.The fashionable skirt for the three-piece
costume or any dressy gown, in fact, willtouch the ground as much as three Inchesin the front and from five to six inchesin the back. It will hang in long, gracefullines unbroken by flounces. Its ornamen¬tation will all be toward the botlom.When tilmy materials are used, such asmarquisette and voile, this skirt willeither be gored or it will be gathered andplaited a trifle at the top, the fullness be¬ing correctly distributed at the waist line.This style of skirt, which lies on theground all the way around, when madeup in other than transparent fabrics isoften cut circi.ar.The waist will be an elaborate combina¬
tion of lace, exquisite trimmings and thefabric of the costume ar.d in design willfrequently show the short empire effectat the back. The coats will often intro¬duce a directoire effect showing a short¬ened waist line, big pocket flaps, ftanngcuffs and rather full three-quartersleeves. Broadcloth, dyed lace and vel¬vets will be combined in these costumes.They will display much self-trimming.Many cordlngs of the same fabric as thegown will be used, as well as ruchlngsand plaitings when the material is of afilmy texture.A high novelty for the three-piece cos¬tumes, will be the imported siiks which
show> suiting designs, some woven andsome printed. These are especially at¬tractive in tussah silk printed in a serg ¦or striped suiting pattern. The costumeidea is just as pronounced a winter fash¬ion for certain occasions as the mannishtailor-made suit.
The Nosegay Fashion.That very cfiarming habit of wearing a'
bouquet of- flowers tucked into the cor¬sage is again universal among the bes{dressed women, only as often as not th^flowers worn are artificial.A bunch of malmaisons, of roses or of
violas Is modish. The first-named blos¬soms wear well, and so real ones arechosen in preference to made ones: butroses soon droop and violas cannot al¬ways be obtained, so in their case arti¬ficial blossoms are preferred.Hoses for the corsage are sold singly,
with an enormously long stalk, but violasare best liked in a big bunch, deftly ar¬ranged in a most natural looking group.The jewelers have produced a nosegaybrooch that clasps tha bouquet round thestalks and secures it to the bodice orcoat. It has a humped bar across it,through whicli the stalks are slipped.Ornamented witli diamonds.which sparklelike dewdrops among the foliage, tnebrooch is a very pretty addition to, tnetoilet.Dainty bandy bags In white kid for the
theater and evening wear look lovelywhen decorated with graceful trails offlowers reproduced with tiny shaded rib¬bon. closely gathered, to form relief.Wide belts made of the same delicate ma¬terial are sometimes successfully pow¬dered with clusters of varlegatea pansiesstamped on the foundation with coloredstencils, partly covered with silk braidloosely woven, dyed in the exact tints ofthe blossoms, and laid flat, with but afew creases, to allow a pesp at the paint¬ed ground, says the Queen. The end tuftbeyond the fastening is alone left freefrom the braid veiling.All kinds of charming head scarfs are
being introduced for evening wear. Mara-
bou lias been aplied to pauze In a mostbewitching form, so that the whole headis enveloped with the soft fluffy wrap,which is eminently becoming, encirclingthe head, and giving fresh beauty to the
face. The coats which fashionable folkare wearing in the evening are singularlydelightful; the trend of empire modes iastill apparent, and much to the benefitof the wearer.
* A STYLISH STREET GOWN.