1
HE three popular and beautiful 5 actresses who are pictured on S this page never need look for- JL ward to the time when the.v will stop reigning in tha hearts of womankind. They could liold them for¬ ever with only their perfect clothes as an attraction, for where could women find better entertainment than in analyzing thousand-dollar gowns and liundred-dol- lar hats? And is it not wonderful to be¬ hold Miss Lillian Rv s ll's r.sw Greuze coiffure, the latest arrangement of the1 hair approved by Parisians. w:th Its puffs that encircle the back of the head inter¬ woven with a blue ribbon that ties at one side of the head in a dainty upstand¬ ing bow? Miss Russell is as famous for her many hats as she is for her good looks, and the charming pieca of head- gear she wears in the illustration is a French confection of green velvet draped with an exquisite shaded gTeen plume. Grace George, another favorite of the footlights, is wearing a charming product of Mile. Carlier's art in the guise of a black clipped beaver adorned with a mag- nifii'ent white willow feather. Quite In a class by herself is that queen of light opera. Edna Wallace Hopper, who affects in her portrait one of the new theater bonnets trimmed with ribbon and ros>*s. It is said that when this petite woman ties her bonnet strings under her chin many- are the hearts of the young men that are tied within. ^ Ono milliner who dwells with rapture upon the new headdresses which ingenious Paris has Invented for theater wear says that it is in revenge for tha victory which man achieved in the fight about theater hats. "There was a long war waged over the headgear." she says, "and man.for women seldom object to the size of other women's hats.won with the help of the theater managers. Women now have their revenge for this, thanks to Paris. No man can make a woman take off an evening headdress, and the new headdress bids fair to rival in height the evening hat." One must wait and see. Probably men and theater managers will find a way to get around It. Fifty Tips on Her Hat. Evening and restaurant hats always represent an important item of the Paris- "tenne's outfit. A large cloche, which was immensely long from back to front, was carried out in ivory poplin and wreathed with a thick full ruche of undyed ostrich tips in beige and white. sligTitly curled to give them a tiuffy appearance and comprising fifty in all, these being piljd higher on the left side than the right, while a huge pale pink rose nestled among the fronds in the cen- ter of the front and a cachep'igne of cof¬ fee colored tulle fell over the hair at the back. Simple and charming as this wonderful erection might appear to the lay mind, the price of it would have made our grand¬ mothers cxclaim in pious horror, as much as $100 worth of feathers alone being used to form tlie wreath. Just a Few Hata. The smart hats worn at present are many In design and material. Those "molded over," as the phrase goes, with their fabrics are charming (especially If great care Is taken not to make them too heavy.a fate which overtakes the felt and velvet hat very frequently). There have been some charming ivory hats of this d"Scription. notably one of dull moire in a deep grayish tone of cream, trimmed with a great cluster of very soft feath¬ ery black marabou. The lining w:is of black tulle. A chapeau of olive gr^en peau de sole is trimmed with olive and black plumage and wings and lined with ivory, and a third mod"1 of several lovely shades of saxo blue and mauve turning to gray is molded of shot nmuve arid gray taft-tas. The Small Kat loiter On. Those who can foresee the future say that the small hat, but with a more or less big trimming, will arrive sooner or later. An elegant model seen recently was a small tricorne with a mass of plumage. a fantaisle, as they say in Paris.project¬ ing from the sides. There is a lot of "out¬ line" about those little hats with b!g trimmings, and though they 111. y not In immediately a vogue they will cet th"ir innings sooner or later.* The little hat re¬ fuses to poise witiU success on anything but a soft, loos> wealth of hair. but. of course, given thai, its success is second to none. , But fashion is accommodating and sym¬ pathetic all the time. The higher crowned hats that arc longer from back to front than across the head make amends for skimpy front hair wonderfully well. There are two kinds of higher crowned hats just now, one amazone and the other direc- toire, the latter with a brim that is al¬ most as perpendicular as the crown and very narrow. Both of these shapes are generally adorned with ostrich feathers, but some amazOnes have been very suc¬ cessfully trimmed with bunches of quills fastened in at the aide with a backward movement. A New Toque. The newest in smart millinery Is the broad velvet toque in n variety of shades, but chiefly in ruby and sapphire.lovely tints of red and blue.trimmed with a band of skunk or fox and a black aigret. Then there is the large velvet hat with the velvet stretched tightly over the entire shape and a wonderful aigret in the same shade. These aigrets cost sometimes $25 or ?."><), so it is easily understood that the hr.t when complete is a trifle expensive. In fact, the wearer of it may rely upon being somewhat exclusive. A style that is more within the means of all and which is equally pretty has the trimming In large choux of taffeta pinked at the edges. Three of these choux con¬ stitute a trimming, placed one next the other in one or mor9 colors, according to taste. Another fancy in choux is in imitation of grapes, small silk balls made over wool, in green, purple, brown, black or whatever shade you please. Black felt hats are relieved with three of these bunches of grapes in purple or green with excallent effect. Barnyard Feathers on tKe Hat. Cocks' feathers are the fashion. They have taken the place of the costly plume. What was the use of putting $30 or more into a plume when there were so rftany other ways of building up the towering, spreading hat? The milliners say that the weather cock of fashion, which only a short time ago took an alarming twist in the direction of extravagance where head¬ gear was concerned, s'ems to have "set fair" for the woman who is not overbur¬ dened with money. Instead of plumage of a rare and expensive kind we are giving allegiance to the waving plumage of the autocrat of the farmyard. His feathers, introduced in every shads or form which tjie fancy of the milliner can suggest, are hsing used extensively as a decoration. Somebody has named this top piece the chicken feather hat. The Last Word From the Most Reliable Parisian Ateliers Special Correspondence of The Star. PARIS, November f>. 1907. SOCIETY here at the Ville Luml- niere Is all agog over the unique partnership existing between Mme. Anna Gould and her intimate friend, Mrs. Rutherford Stuyves- int, who have planned a social campaign along American lines.that of the smart N*ew York-Newport variety. And it is said by those who have heard the plans Jlscussed that they will inspire e.vtn the blasf old Faubourg set with some inter¬ est In the game. It is the intention of :hese wealthy young matrons to give dur¬ ing the season a series of dinners, balls irid receptions that will rival in novelty sr.ii brilliance the salons of the French leaders. In an4Jcipation of this social war the magnificent palace of Mme. Gould, upjn which Count Boni spent so many of his wife's millions, has oeen in the hands r>: t.t'i decorators and is even lovelier now than when Mme. Anna's little powder Curt of a*t > x-husfcand was the lord and r.aster of this modern Trianon. The other partner, Mrs. Stuyvesant. will do the lienors at her chateau just\>utside Paris as hostess for the week-end parties of the ril iu, and one can be assured that novelty will not be lacking at these gatherings. Mrs. Stuyvesant. although accounted an American society woman and a member of Mrs. Astor's renowned Six Hundred, is a Hollander by birth and before she married her present husband was the Countess Matilde de Waseanaer, widow of a Dutch nobleman. This campaign would seem to discount the rumor that Mme. Anne Gould is again going to risk her luck in the matrimonial market by buying some more stock in the Castellane family, represented by her husoand's cousin, Prince de Sagan. Kiteflying Debutantes. Kiteflying just now is one of society's diversions, and among Parisian debu¬ tantes it has been taken up with a vim. As one girl said to me about the sport, "Kiteflying is splendid exercise for the figure and gives you such a tine appetite for breakfait. And a pretty sigVu was this girl flying her kite out in the Bois in the early morning hours clad in a chic blue sweatsr, a navy blue short skirt, stout shoes with low heels, heavy gray gloves and a blue and white tam-o'shan- ter on her fluffy, fair head. She certainly was the embodiment of health, running about wherever the breezes elected to send her paper kite. Children *nd their bonnes were about the grounds playing the fascinating and favorite game of diabolo, and the youngsters looked too cute for anything in their winter coats patterned after those of the grown-ups. R<>d is always a favorite color for the small girl's raiment, and this season it is more strongly in evident e than usual. Attractive coats of red broadcloth made in the long hox style, with an over-the- shoulder deep collar of black caracal cloth and big black jet buttons, is the i oat worn by the smartest Parisian chil- dren. The hat is either a large black beaver with a slashing big l>ow of moir< ribbon or it is a .close-fitting tricern< trimmed with a military pompon. O course this costume is merely o e fo everyday wear. The French child is neve overdressed for any occasion, and evei the young girls are simply gowned unti they "come out," and even then they di not reach the height of all their sartoria glory until they achieve the prefix ma dame to their names. The Patented Gown the Latest. The patented gown is the very lates novelty in the fashion world. The grea fashion artists are growing tired of see ing their ideas copied by artists who hav< less art and'originality to dispose of, ant one of them has taken to patenting hi: best creations before launching them There is hardly any doubt that his exam pie will be followed by his i^ustrious fet low couturiers. Whether they are patent ed or not. it is a very difficult matter tc copy the masterpieces of the Rue de Is Paix. Each couturier has his own par¬ ticular knack, his especial chic, his pel secret, and it is very hard to Imitate hit work unless his imitator be endowed v.'itl' similar gifts. The big Parisian dress¬ makers employ the most talented staff ol designers, and no expense is foregone in the way of experiments ar.d materials. The price of a Rue de 'a Paix gown may at sight appear exorbitant, but little does a customer know of the cost which it in¬ volves. Between the design and the finish¬ ed model and from the model to the cus¬ toms s order may lie an outlay repre¬ senting a small fortune. When every ex- pons . is taicn into consideration.rent, AN EVENING GOWN, PICTURE FROCK AND WRAP BY ROUFF. designers, fitters, cutters, tailors, worji girls, manikins, saleswomen, material a. <3 so forth.one is surprised that shopping in Paris is not much more extravagant than it is. As a matter of fact, nowhere does one obtain as good value for one's money, while it must always be remem¬ bered that everything in the dress line treated here at the capital serves as a model the world over for others to profit by. Models Prom the Maison Houff. M. Rouff, the famous couturier of the Boulevard Haussmann. has a very pic¬ turesque model, to be seen by special fa¬ vor, which he lias named "Sans Soucl." It is a theater or reception costume of al¬ mond green crope de chine with broad bands of velvet woven in the material. The sleeves of old gold lace are an unu¬ sual feature and in their wrinkled snug- ness are characteristic of the latest style. The little fichu, which is loosely knotted on the front of the bodice, is of velvet, which also makes the girdle, from wiiich depend long fringed ends. The creation is laid over a foundation of pale yellow- taffeta, and the glints of gold to be caught as the wearer moves about are fascinating. The illustration does little Justice to the actual frock, which is one of the most charming models T have seen this season. A delightful wrap, composed especially for this frock, is of green vel¬ vet falling a little below the waist line. In the back the drapery takes the form of a hood, from which hang long tassels. The edges of the wrap in some mysterious fashion are hemstitched, and the full floundps on the gathered velvet muff are rrr-atotl In the same fashion. Chiffon also ixautilies this muff, and a big rose in gold tissue completes this seductive har¬ mony. v The same artist has on view a smart evening confectiofi of black voile nlnon into which bands of. black satin ribbon, printed with a pompadour flower pattern, have been woven. Fringes of jet fall from the bodice, and a glittering transparency of jet outlines the decollete neck, and nothing enhances the beauty of the wearer more than this jet embroidery. An apricot liberty satin foundation is just perceptible beneath the voile. M. Rouff is responsible for a charming street suit of blue cloth.that is, the high v.aisted skirt is of the navy blue clotli. while i..e simply cut coat of gray cloth is embroid¬ ered with blue passementerie. Buttons from which depend small tassels figure on a crenelated application of blus cloth. The armholes are embroidered with pas¬ sementerie, and the sleeves are three- ciuarter length.- Still another distinguish¬ ed frock to be seen at this atelier is' of mole-colored voile laid over old blue lib- frty satin. The basque bodice Is em¬ broidered with narrow taupo ribbon on a vieux blue ground, the now indispensable tassel trimming repeating the same shades. The sk'rt is. as usual, slightly high at the back, and the sleeves come only to the elbow. The Theater Wrap. So magnificent and distinctive nowa¬ days is the theater wrap that it occupies a place apart in the smart woman's mind, who regards it much as the Frenchwoman used to regard her theater toque. It Is the cloak that matters and the coiffure. The dross itself Is quite a minor consid¬ eration. Apropos of the shawl-like shape of the cloak of the hour, many handsome old shawls with netted fringes long laid aside as useless might now see th ? light again and make up well into the fashion¬ able theater wrap, There are many peo¬ ple.especially those who have passed middle age, shall we put it?.who prefer a coat to a cloak for evening wear, the latter, with its voluminous draperies and Immense sleeves, making them look too bunchy. For them there is the loose, semi-fitting three-quarter length or rather longer shape, which falls away from th> figure and reveals a daintily embroidered vest. The curve of the waist at the back must be clearly Indicated in these coats both for day and evening wear. This is absolutely necessary if the coat is to pass muster as of this season's date. The hor¬ rible shapeless sack back is quite de mode and must not be confounded with the empire back, a very different story. In spite of the vogue for enveloping garments, the corset remains the founda¬ tion for good dressing. It must be very supple and woven to imitate knitting. The texture stretches perpendicularly and not, of course, horizontaHy. Vv hatever may be said to the contrary, tight lacing is not indulged in by the woman of fash¬ ion. If possible the corset should be cut to order, but very good ones are to be found in the shops. Whether the corset should be high or low depends entirely on the wearer, and a good corset maker's advice silould be followed in the matter. Ab a rule, the best corsets over here are low in the bust and deep on the hips. If a corset is not perfectly comfortable it should not be worn. Comfort will almost always insure elegance. The laces should be wide open when the corsets are I it on, and they should be pulled down all round and the suspenders fastened to the stock¬ ings. Finally the laces should bo tied at the back, as much space as possible being left above and below the waist. The laces should always be undone before re¬ moving the corset or it will not remain in good shape. A corset should be loose, not tight fitting, and, however loose it is, if badly cut and worn with broken or ill placed whalebones it may be very harm¬ ful. CATHERINE TALBOT. THREE-PIECE COSTUME. The fashionable skirt for the three-piece costume or any dressy gown, in fact, will touch the ground as much as three Inches in the front and from five to six inches in the back. It will hang in long, graceful lines unbroken by flounces. Its ornamen¬ tation will all be toward the botlom. When tilmy materials are used, such as marquisette and voile, this skirt will either be gored or it will be gathered and plaited a trifle at the top, the fullness be¬ ing correctly distributed at the waist line. This style of skirt, which lies on the ground all the way around, when made up in other than transparent fabrics is often cut circi.ar. The waist will be an elaborate combina¬ tion of lace, exquisite trimmings and the fabric of the costume ar.d in design will frequently show the short empire effect at the back. The coats will often intro¬ duce a directoire effect showing a short¬ ened waist line, big pocket flaps, ftanng cuffs and rather full three-quarter sleeves. Broadcloth, dyed lace and vel¬ vets will be combined in these costumes. They will display much self-trimming. Many cordlngs of the same fabric as the gown will be used, as well as ruchlngs and plaitings when the material is of a filmy texture. A high novelty for the three-piece cos¬ tumes, will be the imported siiks which show> suiting designs, some woven and some printed. These are especially at¬ tractive in tussah silk printed in a serg ¦ or striped suiting pattern. The costume idea is just as pronounced a winter fash¬ ion for certain occasions as the mannish tailor-made suit. The Nosegay Fashion. That very cfiarming habit of wearing a' bouquet of- flowers tucked into the cor¬ sage is again universal among the bes{ dressed women, only as often as not th^ flowers worn are artificial. A bunch of malmaisons, of roses or of violas Is modish. The first-named blos¬ soms wear well, and so real ones are chosen in preference to made ones: but roses soon droop and violas cannot al¬ ways be obtained, so in their case arti¬ ficial blossoms are preferred. Hoses for the corsage are sold singly, with an enormously long stalk, but violas are best liked in a big bunch, deftly ar¬ ranged in a most natural looking group. The jewelers have produced a nosegay brooch that clasps tha bouquet round the stalks and secures it to the bodice or coat. It has a humped bar across it, through whicli the stalks are slipped. Ornamented witli diamonds.which sparkle like dewdrops among the foliage, tne brooch is a very pretty addition to, tne toilet. Dainty bandy bags In white kid for the theater and evening wear look lovely when decorated with graceful trails of flowers reproduced with tiny shaded rib¬ bon. closely gathered, to form relief. Wide belts made of the same delicate ma¬ terial are sometimes successfully pow¬ dered with clusters of varlegatea pansies stamped on the foundation with colored stencils, partly covered with silk braid loosely woven, dyed in the exact tints of the blossoms, and laid flat, with but a few creases, to allow a pesp at the paint¬ ed ground, says the Queen. The end tuft beyond the fastening is alone left free from the braid veiling. All kinds of charming head scarfs are being introduced for evening wear. Mara- bou lias been aplied to pauze In a most bewitching form, so that the whole head is enveloped with the soft fluffy wrap, which is eminently becoming, encircling the head, and giving fresh beauty to the face. The coats which fashionable folk are wearing in the evening are singularly delightful; the trend of empire modes ia still apparent, and much to the benefit of the wearer. * A STYLISH STREET GOWN.

Last Word From the Most Reliable - Chronicling Americairid receptions that will rival in novelty sr.ii brilliance the salons of the French leaders. In an4Jcipation of this social war

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  • HE three popular and beautiful5 actresses who are pictured onS this page never need look for-JL ward to the time when the.v

    will stop reigning in tha heartsof womankind. They could liold them for¬ever with only their perfect clothes as anattraction, for where could women findbetter entertainment than in analyzingthousand-dollar gowns and liundred-dol-lar hats? And is it not wonderful to be¬

    hold Miss Lillian Rv s ll's r.sw Greuzecoiffure, the latest arrangement of the1hair approved by Parisians. w:th Its puffsthat encircle the back of the head inter¬woven with a blue ribbon that ties atone side of the head in a dainty upstand¬ing bow? Miss Russell is as famous forher many hats as she is for her goodlooks, and the charming pieca of head-gear she wears in the illustration is aFrench confection of green velvet drapedwith an exquisite shaded gTeen plume.Grace George, another favorite of the

    footlights, is wearing a charming productof Mile. Carlier's art in the guise of ablack clipped beaver adorned with a mag-nifii'ent white willow feather. Quite In aclass by herself is that queen of lightopera. Edna Wallace Hopper, who affectsin her portrait one of the new theaterbonnets trimmed with ribbon and ros>*s.It is said that when this petite woman tiesher bonnet strings under her chin many-are the hearts of the young men that aretied within. ^Ono milliner who dwells with rapture

    upon the new headdresses which ingeniousParis has Invented for theater wear saysthat it is in revenge for tha victory whichman achieved in the fight about theaterhats. "There was a long war waged overthe headgear." she says, "and man.forwomen seldom object to the size of otherwomen's hats.won with the help of thetheater managers. Women now havetheir revenge for this, thanks to Paris.No man can make a woman take off anevening headdress, and the new headdressbids fair to rival in height the evening

    hat." One must wait and see. Probablymen and theater managers will find away to get around It.

    Fifty Tips on Her Hat.Evening and restaurant hats always

    represent an important item of the Paris-"tenne's outfit.A large cloche, which was immensely

    long from back to front, was carried outin ivory poplin and wreathed with a thickfull ruche of undyed ostrich tips in beige

    and white. sligTitly curled to give them atiuffy appearance and comprising fifty inall, these being piljd higher on the leftside than the right, while a huge pale pinkrose nestled among the fronds in the cen-ter of the front and a cachep'igne of cof¬fee colored tulle fell over the hair at theback.Simple and charming as this wonderful

    erection might appear to the lay mind, theprice of it would have made our grand¬mothers cxclaim in pious horror, as much

    as $100 worth of feathers alone being usedto form tlie wreath.

    Just a Few Hata.The smart hats worn at present are

    many In design and material. Those"molded over," as the phrase goes, withtheir fabrics are charming (especially Ifgreat care Is taken not to make them tooheavy.a fate which overtakes the feltand velvet hat very frequently). Therehave been some charming ivory hats ofthis d"Scription. notably one of dull moirein a deep grayish tone of cream, trimmedwith a great cluster of very soft feath¬ery black marabou. The lining w:is ofblack tulle. A chapeau of olive gr^en peaude sole is trimmed with olive and blackplumage and wings and lined with ivory,and a third mod"1 of several lovely shadesof saxo blue and mauve turning to gray ismolded of shot nmuve arid gray taft-tas.

    The Small Kat loiter On.Those who can foresee the future say

    that the small hat, but with a more orless big trimming, will arrive sooner orlater. An elegant model seen recently wasa small tricorne with a mass of plumage.a fantaisle, as they say in Paris.project¬ing from the sides. There is a lot of "out¬line" about those little hats with b!gtrimmings, and though they 111. y not Inimmediately a vogue they will cet th"irinnings sooner or later.* The little hat re¬fuses to poise witiU success on anythingbut a soft, loos> wealth of hair. but. ofcourse, given thai, its success is second tonone. ,But fashion is accommodating and sym¬

    pathetic all the time. The higher crownedhats that arc longer from back to frontthan across the head make amends forskimpy front hair wonderfully well. Thereare two kinds of higher crowned hats justnow, one amazone and the other direc-toire, the latter with a brim that is al¬most as perpendicular as the crown andvery narrow. Both of these shapes aregenerally adorned with ostrich feathers,but some amazOnes have been very suc¬cessfully trimmed with bunches of quillsfastened in at the aide with a backwardmovement.

    A New Toque.The newest in smart millinery Is the

    broad velvet toque in n variety of shades,but chiefly in ruby and sapphire.lovelytints of red and blue.trimmed with aband of skunk or fox and a black aigret.Then there is the large velvet hat withthe velvet stretched tightly over the entireshape and a wonderful aigret in the sameshade. These aigrets cost sometimes $25or ?.">. 1907.SOCIETY here at the Ville Luml-

    niere Is all agog over the uniquepartnership existing between Mme.Anna Gould and her intimatefriend, Mrs. Rutherford Stuyves-

    int, who have planned a social campaignalong American lines.that of the smartN*ew York-Newport variety. And it issaid by those who have heard the plansJlscussed that they will inspire e.vtn theblasf old Faubourg set with some inter¬est In the game. It is the intention of:hese wealthy young matrons to give dur¬ing the season a series of dinners, ballsirid receptions that will rival in noveltysr.ii brilliance the salons of the Frenchleaders. In an4Jcipation of this social warthe magnificent palace of Mme. Gould,upjn which Count Boni spent so many ofhis wife's millions, has oeen in the handsr>: t.t'i decorators and is even loveliernow than when Mme. Anna's little powderCurt of a*t > x-husfcand was the lord andr.aster of this modern Trianon. The otherpartner, Mrs. Stuyvesant. will do thelienors at her chateau just\>utside Parisas hostess for the week-end parties of theril iu, and one can be assured that noveltywill not be lacking at these gatherings.Mrs. Stuyvesant. although accounted anAmerican society woman and a memberof Mrs. Astor's renowned Six Hundred,is a Hollander by birth and before shemarried her present husband was theCountess Matilde de Waseanaer, widow

    of a Dutch nobleman. This campaignwould seem to discount the rumor thatMme. Anne Gould is again going to riskher luck in the matrimonial market bybuying some more stock in the Castellanefamily, represented by her husoand'scousin, Prince de Sagan.

    Kiteflying Debutantes.Kiteflying just now is one of society's

    diversions, and among Parisian debu¬tantes it has been taken up with a vim.As one girl said to me about the sport,"Kiteflying is splendid exercise for thefigure and gives you such a tine appetitefor breakfait. And a pretty sigVu wasthis girl flying her kite out in the Bois inthe early morning hours clad in a chicblue sweatsr, a navy blue short skirt,stout shoes with low heels, heavy graygloves and a blue and white tam-o'shan-ter on her fluffy, fair head. She certainlywas the embodiment of health, runningabout wherever the breezes elected tosend her paper kite. Children *nd theirbonnes were about the grounds playingthe fascinating and favorite game ofdiabolo, and the youngsters looked toocute for anything in their winter coatspatterned after those of the grown-ups.Rd is always a favorite color for the

    small girl's raiment, and this season it ismore strongly in evident e than usual.Attractive coats of red broadcloth madein the long hox style, with an over-the-shoulder deep collar of black caracalcloth and big black jet buttons, is thei oat worn by the smartest Parisian chil-dren. The hat is either a large black

    beaver with a slashing big l>ow of moir<ribbon or it is a .close-fitting tricern<trimmed with a military pompon. Ocourse this costume is merely o e foeveryday wear. The French child is neveoverdressed for any occasion, and eveithe young girls are simply gowned untithey "come out," and even then they dinot reach the height of all their sartoriaglory until they achieve the prefix madame to their names.The Patented Gown the Latest.The patented gown is the very lates

    novelty in the fashion world. The greafashion artists are growing tired of seeing their ideas copied by artists who hav<less art and'originality to dispose of, antone of them has taken to patenting hi:best creations before launching themThere is hardly any doubt that his exampie will be followed by his i^ustrious fetlow couturiers. Whether they are patented or not. it is a very difficult matter tccopy the masterpieces of the Rue de IsPaix. Each couturier has his own par¬ticular knack, his especial chic, his pelsecret, and it is very hard to Imitate hitwork unless his imitator be endowed v.'itl'similar gifts. The big Parisian dress¬makers employ the most talented staff oldesigners, and no expense is foregone inthe way of experiments ar.d materials.The price of a Rue de 'a Paix gown mayat sight appear exorbitant, but little doesa customer know of the cost which it in¬volves. Between the design and the finish¬ed model and from the model to the cus¬toms s order may lie an outlay repre¬senting a small fortune. When every ex-pons . is taicn into consideration.rent,

    AN EVENING GOWN, PICTURE FROCK AND WRAP BY ROUFF.

    designers, fitters, cutters, tailors, worjigirls, manikins, saleswomen, material a. figure and reveals a daintily embroideredvest. The curve of the waist at the backmust be clearly Indicated in these coatsboth for day and evening wear. This isabsolutely necessary if the coat is to passmuster as of this season's date. The hor¬rible shapeless sack back is quite de modeand must not be confounded with theempire back, a very different story.

    In spite of the vogue for envelopinggarments, the corset remains the founda¬tion for good dressing. It must be verysupple and woven to imitate knitting.The texture stretches perpendicularly andnot, of course, horizontaHy. Vv hatevermay be said to the contrary, tight lacingis not indulged in by the woman of fash¬ion. If possible the corset should be cut

    to order, but very good ones are to befound in the shops. Whether the corsetshould be high or low depends entirelyon the wearer, and a good corset maker'sadvice silould be followed in the matter.Ab a rule, the best corsets over here arelow in the bust and deep on the hips. Ifa corset is not perfectly comfortable itshould not be worn. Comfort will almostalways insure elegance. The laces shouldbe wide open when the corsets are I it on,and they should be pulled down all roundand the suspenders fastened to the stock¬ings. Finally the laces should bo tied atthe back, as much space as possible beingleft above and below the waist. The lacesshould always be undone before re¬moving the corset or it will not remain ingood shape. A corset should be loose, nottight fitting, and, however loose it is, ifbadly cut and worn with broken or illplaced whalebones it may be very harm¬ful. CATHERINE TALBOT.

    THREE-PIECE COSTUME.The fashionable skirt for the three-piece

    costume or any dressy gown, in fact, willtouch the ground as much as three Inchesin the front and from five to six inchesin the back. It will hang in long, gracefullines unbroken by flounces. Its ornamen¬tation will all be toward the botlom.When tilmy materials are used, such asmarquisette and voile, this skirt willeither be gored or it will be gathered andplaited a trifle at the top, the fullness be¬ing correctly distributed at the waist line.This style of skirt, which lies on theground all the way around, when madeup in other than transparent fabrics isoften cut circi.ar.The waist will be an elaborate combina¬

    tion of lace, exquisite trimmings and thefabric of the costume ar.d in design willfrequently show the short empire effectat the back. The coats will often intro¬duce a directoire effect showing a short¬ened waist line, big pocket flaps, ftanngcuffs and rather full three-quartersleeves. Broadcloth, dyed lace and vel¬vets will be combined in these costumes.They will display much self-trimming.Many cordlngs of the same fabric as thegown will be used, as well as ruchlngsand plaitings when the material is of afilmy texture.A high novelty for the three-piece cos¬tumes, will be the imported siiks which

    show> suiting designs, some woven andsome printed. These are especially at¬tractive in tussah silk printed in a serg ¦or striped suiting pattern. The costumeidea is just as pronounced a winter fash¬ion for certain occasions as the mannishtailor-made suit.

    The Nosegay Fashion.That very cfiarming habit of wearing a'

    bouquet of- flowers tucked into the cor¬sage is again universal among the bes{dressed women, only as often as not th^flowers worn are artificial.A bunch of malmaisons, of roses or of

    violas Is modish. The first-named blos¬soms wear well, and so real ones arechosen in preference to made ones: butroses soon droop and violas cannot al¬ways be obtained, so in their case arti¬ficial blossoms are preferred.Hoses for the corsage are sold singly,

    with an enormously long stalk, but violasare best liked in a big bunch, deftly ar¬ranged in a most natural looking group.The jewelers have produced a nosegaybrooch that clasps tha bouquet round thestalks and secures it to the bodice orcoat. It has a humped bar across it,through whicli the stalks are slipped.Ornamented witli diamonds.which sparklelike dewdrops among the foliage, tnebrooch is a very pretty addition to, tnetoilet.Dainty bandy bags In white kid for the

    theater and evening wear look lovelywhen decorated with graceful trails offlowers reproduced with tiny shaded rib¬bon. closely gathered, to form relief.Wide belts made of the same delicate ma¬terial are sometimes successfully pow¬dered with clusters of varlegatea pansiesstamped on the foundation with coloredstencils, partly covered with silk braidloosely woven, dyed in the exact tints ofthe blossoms, and laid flat, with but afew creases, to allow a pesp at the paint¬ed ground, says the Queen. The end tuftbeyond the fastening is alone left freefrom the braid veiling.All kinds of charming head scarfs are

    being introduced for evening wear. Mara-

    bou lias been aplied to pauze In a mostbewitching form, so that the whole headis enveloped with the soft fluffy wrap,which is eminently becoming, encirclingthe head, and giving fresh beauty to the

    face. The coats which fashionable folkare wearing in the evening are singularlydelightful; the trend of empire modes iastill apparent, and much to the benefitof the wearer.

    * A STYLISH STREET GOWN.