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NEXT MEETING: August 16, 2016
Come early to socialize and share your questions with experienced
beekeepers.
General Meeting Hall opens at 7:00 pm
Program 7:30 pm
Topic: “Question & Answer” Discussions
We will divide into small groups and an experience beekeepers will be an-swering your individual questions. Bring your questions.
Trinity United
Methodist Church 440 Maxwell Road
Turn West off River Road in Eugene (South of Beltline)
We had great information shared at the both sessions in July. Ken Ograin began with the early session on extracting honey. At the main meeting, Judy Scher presented Fall and Winter Management. After the harvesting of honey, it is important to prepare your hives for the upcoming fall and win-ter. Applying the valuable advice and tips she shared will help you prepare your hives for overwintering. See the July Meeting Highlights printed on page 2 for details on both talks.
The August 16th meeting will be a great opportunity for our members to ask questions and share beekeeping stories with one another. We have a group of experienced beekeepers who will lead a number of small groups in discussions. Please attend and come ready with the questions that have been buzzing in your head this summer.
I hope you were able to see the LCBA exhibit in the Grange display area at the Lane County Fair. Les and I were not fortunate enough to win a ribbon with our two jars of medium honey, but we know others did. The names and categories are listed on page 8.
Les and I just returned from a several day trip to the Metolius River. On our hikes we saw honey bees gathering nectar and pollen on clover. One little lady, with pockets packed with yellow pollen, visited flowers at a hanging basket on the deck. She didn’t get the pollen from the geraniums that at-tracted her, she came to them already full! I wish I knew where she had been earlier in her flight.
The Oregon State Beekeepers Association (OSBA) will hold its annual meet-ing on Oct. 29 and 30 at the Oregon Gardens in Silverton. Our club will be doing a drawing in September for a free registration offered by LCBA as well as one offered by OSBA. To be eligible for these free registrations, the win-ner must be in attendance at the time of the drawing on September 20. For more information on the conference click on the link under “Events” on page 2. Registration form is on page 10 .
Inside this Issue:
July Meeting Highlights 2 Upcoming Events & Announcements 3 Volunteers Needed / New Members 3 Honey Extracting 4 Miticides 5 Busy Bee 6 August Beekeeping Tips 7 Honey Bee Suite Article 8 “Sage Advice” & Survey Info 9 OSBA Registration Form 10 Classified Ads 1 1
LANE COUNTY BEEKEEPERS ASSOCIATION 130 HANSEN LANE, EUGENE, OR 97404
Website: lcbaor.org Email: [email protected]
President: Pam Leavitt 541-344-4228 Vice-President: Max Kuhn 541-999-0744
Treasurer: Polly Habliston 541-461-0339 Secretary: Jodi Wiktorowski 541-685-2875
Past President: Katharine Hunt 541-607-0106 Board Members: Kelly Goodwin 541-925-3028
Francis Rothauge 541-520-8391 Larry Scoville 541-228-0973
Ross Mills 541-510-3394 Wayne Lemler 541-935-9527
President’s Message Pam Leavitt, LCBA President
August 2016 August 2016 NEWSLETTERNEWSLETTER
Speaker:
Judy Scher covered important topics in her presentation, “Fall and Winter Manage-
ment.” Judy noted that in the Willamette Valley, fall typically was designated as beginning in August. Recent changes in weather have pushed this date into July! This year, the beginning of fall beekeeping started around July 15! Judy reminded everyone that the bees mark the begin-ning of fall by kicking the drones out of the hive. If you see this happening at the entrance of your hive, it is a clear indication that fall has begun! Fall management is important to set your hives up to be strong enough to get through winter. The hives need to be strong and they need to have good queens. Judy noted that many people have noticed that their honey supers are full, but that the honey is not capped. This is very likely caused by the nectar dearth because without the nectar, the bees do not have the energy nec-essary to produce wax for capping.
In our area, all honey supers should be off the hives by July 15th. It is very important to remove any queen excluders be-fore going into winter! Any frames removed from the hive need to be treated for wax worms before going into winter storage. There are 2 ways to treat the frames for wax worms; freezing them for 48 hours or using the chemical treatment Paramoth. Frames can be stored in sealed plastic bags after treatment, or they can be left in boxes and the boxes can be staggered to allow exposure to sunlight. If Paramoth is used, the frames will need to be aired out for at least 3 weeks be-fore they can be put back onto the hives in the spring.
Fall treatment is important to send healthy bees into the winter. Tracheal mites, nosema, and varroa mites should all be addressed in the fall. Grease patties need to be present in the hive all year to prevent tracheal mites. The classic sign of tracheal mite infection is K-wing. In previous years, it was advised to treat your hives for Nosema in the fall. Nosema is treated using Fumagillin B in the sugar syrup feed. Recent advice is to only treat if there are clear signs of infection. It is better to ensure your bees have good nutrition to help them remain healthy. Good nutrition means a good variety of pol-len in the hive! This pollen is needed in order to raise fat bees that will be able to survive through the winter months. Pol-len patties can be offered as a supplement also. Varroa mite counts should be done regularly! The Lane county mite count threshold is defined as 24 mites/day on the mite board, or 12 mites/300 bees if using the sugar shake method. Treatment should be done as soon as this threshold is detected! Hives may need up to 2-3 treatments to bring the varroa mite count to acceptable levels. Judy quickly mentioned American Foulbrood. There is no treatment for this. Any hive found to be infected must be destroyed!
Later in the fall, after medicating your hives, they should be inspected for strength and for the presence of a queen. Going into winter, hives should have at least 6 to 8 frames of bees and there should be a good brood pattern. It is often said that it is better to take your losses in the fall. This means that weak hives should be combined to create strong hives that are able to survive winter. If there is a poor brood pattern or no queen, the hive should be re-queened. Other important fall management tasks include placing entrance reducers to prevent robber bees and yellow jackets. Traps can be set for yel-low jackets. Mouse guards are also helpful to prevent mice from damaging the hives during the winter months. During the dry fall months, water should be made available to your bees.
Winter bees do not hibernate. They will form a cluster in order to stay warm. This cluster will move up the hive consum-ing honey as winter progresses. Honey stores are very important to maintain a hive over winter. A hive will require 50-60 pounds of capped honey to survive through winter. This is equal to one full honey super as well as 2-3 frames on either side of the brood. During the last inspection before winter it is extremely important to check on the honey stores! Right now, if the honey stores are light, it is important to feed 2:1 sugar syrup. It is still warm enough for the bees to dehydrate the feed and store it for winter. Once the outside temperature drops, the bees will not be able to dehydrate the syrup so solid food must be offered. Fondant or cane sugar are then necessary. In our climate, it is not temperature that will kill our hives, but moisture will! It is not recommended that we wrap our hives. Ventilation is important and adding a screen bottom board and a moisture box on top help to keep the moisture from accumulating in the hive. If you do not use a screened bottom board, then raising the back of the hive and creating a forward tip will help moisture to run out of the hive. During the long winter months, it is still important to monitor your hives even without inspections. Varroa counts should still be monitored with a mite board. Counts should remain less than 5/24 hours. Oxalic acid is the only one treat-ment available for use in the winter if varroa becomes a problem. The mite board is also very useful for indirect
continued on page 3
July Meeting Highlights by Jodi Wiktorowski, LCBA Secretary
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August 17 - Ohio State University Bee Lab Webinar Creat-ing Pollinator Habitat on Utility and Highway Rights-of-Way by Rick Johnstone, Integrated Vegetation Management Partners: Click on link below to sign up or review previous classes. These are free classes. You can join the seminar live or re-view at a later date. https://u.osu.edu/beelab/courses/
August 17th - Linn Benton Beekeeping Assoc. Meeting Location: Corvallis Waldorf School, 6:30-8:30 pm Speaker: Dr. Sujaya Rao from OSU speaking on Bumble Bees. Visit their website for more information: http://ww.lbba.us
August 20th - Oregon Honey Festival Time: 10:00am - 4:00pm Location: Ashland, OR http://www.oregonhoneyfestival.com/our-presenters.html
September 24th—Master Gardener Fall Festival 10:00am-4:00pm at Emerald Park, Eugene
October 13th-15th - 2016 Western Apicultural Society of North American Annual Conference Location: Honolulu, Hawaii For more information visit their website: wwww.westernapiculturalsociety.org
September 11th - Bring Home & Garden Tour, The Art of Sustainable Living, 10:00 am-4:00pm The tour will showcase the latest in sustainable home de-sign and gardening and celebrates the ingenuity that de-fines our community. LCBA will have a booth.
October 28th-30th - 2016 Oregon State Beekeepers Assoc. Fall Conference Location: The Oregon Garden Silverton, OR For more information, tentative agenda and registration form click on link below: https://orsba.org/events/2016-osba-fall-conference/
Kelly’s Beekeeping Website: “Lane County Hiveways” Follow Kelly as she does her inspections, observations, and other beekeeping activities. http://lanecountyhiveways.com/
Upcoming Events & Announcements Master Gardener Fall Festival Volunteers Needed
Date: Saturday, Sept. 24th, 10:00am-4:00pm Location: Emerald Park Recreation Center, River Road Park, 1400 Lake Drive, Eugene
Looking for volunteers to help out at the LCBA booth. This is a fun event and we are indoors. If you can help out please let me know.
Nancy Ograin at 541-935-7065 [email protected]
Welcome New Members
Bob Haase & Julie Schaffner Eugene Madronna Holden Eugene Geof Horvath Eugene Julie Jessal & Mike Worlf Eugene Scott Perkins & Jessica Jones Eugene Lauren Sommers Pleasant Hill Larry Winiarski Monroe
monitoring of the cluster. You will be able to see where the cluster is located by the debris pattern on the mite board. If the cluster is stuck to one side of the hive this
can be an emergency as they may run out of honey and starve! In this situation you can very quickly re-center the cluster on a day when the outside temperature is above 50 degrees. It is normal for bees to die during the winter months. The dead bees will accumulate near the hive entrance. Be sure to clear the entrance occasionally. On warm winter days you can also monitor your bees by watching for cleansing flights! The bees will not defecate within the hive, so on warm days they will take short flights in order to defecate. This can give you an indication of your hive strength.
July meeting highlights continued
Photo submitted by Katharine Hunt
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Ken Ograin presented “Extracting” in the early session, attended by 38 members. Ken talked about the different methods of getting the bees out of the hive first. For beekeepers who have only a few hives, his
recommendation is to use a bee brush or a turkey or goose feather to sweep the bees off the frames.
To prepare for the process, an empty box is important for placing the frames after sweeping the bees, as well as a damp towel to use as a cover. He suggested placing a sheet in front of the hive, shake the frame over the sheet to cause the bees to drop off, then use the brush or feather to sweep any extra bees off and place this frame in an empty box, and cover quickly. The cover prevents the bees from flying back onto the swept frames. The bees on the sheet will climb back into the hive. He doesn’t recommend shaking or sweeping directly over the open hive, as that will create active bees flying all around as you are trying to work, and by the time you finish with eight to ten frames, the air will be alive with honeybees.
The second method of removing bees from the hive is to use a bee escape. One type, the Porter escape is inexpensive and is made to fit into the hole in the older style inner cover. Newer inner covers may need some filing of this hole for the es-cape to fit properly. This escape has copper wires, that must be spaced at 5/16th inches apart so the bees can get out but not come back in. Once installed in the inner cover, lift all the honey supers and place the inner cover between the brood boxes and the honey supers. Use of this method requires the beekeeper to be available to remove the honey supers within 24 hours, because this type of escape reduces the ventilation in the boxes significantly, with the possibility of the bees overheating and dying.
There are also other types of bees escapes available for purchase. There is a triangle escape and a cone escape. The ad-vantages of each of these is the improved ventilation provided to the honey boxes should the beekeeper not be able to remove them within 24 hours. These do require purchasing another piece of equipment that needs to be stored and their only use is during extracting.
The third method he discussed was use of fume boards, with felt undersides, placed on the top of the honey supers after removing the queen excluder. He likes BeeDun and Bee Quick, natural oil and extract products which are non toxic, and have a pleasant odor. This method is easy on a hive, is best used on a sunny day, and within 30 minutes most bees will be out of the honey supers. (Note: place fume boards in the sun to warm before using.)
Lastly, he mentioned a Bee Blower, saying commercial beekeepers use them but he doesn’t recommend them for back-yard beekeepers. They are very disruptive to the hive and bees will be flying all around, which is not advisable in a neighborhood setting.
After removal of the frames from the hive, then the process of getting the honey out of the frames is the next step. He recommends doing this on the day they are taken off the hive, because the honey is warm and will flow easily. If it is nec-essary to wait to extract, he suggests placing the frames in a bee tight warm area, frames will need to be warmed to 85 to 90 degrees prior to extracting.
The club has manual extractors for members to borrow. They come with an electric hot knife and stand. Ken showed ex-amples of food grade honey buckets with gate valves and filtering devices and ways to capture cappings. Having a bucket of warm water handy for washing your hands is essential, as this is a very sticky procedure. Wetting a 100% cotton towel is advisable to wipe the hot knife cutting surface during the uncapping process which prevents the wax and honey from burning onto the knife. When uncapping, hold the knife at an angle to prevent the hot surface from the knife from melting the wax that was just uncapped.
For filtering, he recommends straining with a 600 micron filter to first remove wax and bee parts, then a second filtering at 200 microns, which allows the pollen to remain in the honey. Honey filtered to 200 microns can be labeled “raw honey”.
Ken gave a number of helpful and advisable points for new beekeepers as well as to those who have done the process but wanted a refresher course. His years of experience allows club members to learn from his “trials and occasional errors”.
Some of those were: A reminder to have uncapped honey tested for moisture content to prevent fermentation. Use of a capping scratcher. Care in extracting first side of a frame to prevent wax comb from collapsing due to weight of honey on reverse side.
continued on page
Early Educational Class - Honey Extracting by Pam Leavitt, LCBA President
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Advice on storing frames wet or dry post extracting. Allow bees to clean frames by putting them above the inner cover for two days only. The bees will bring the residual honey from
the frames down to their hive to store. Then remove them from the hive.
Freezing frames for 24 to 36 hours will kill wax moth larva. Allow frames to warm to room temperature before placing them in sealed bags or boxes for winter storage. Use of paramoth is another method to prevent wax moth destruction of the comb. It is a chemical product and requires good aeration of the frames prior to them being used on the hive in the spring.
Finally Ken showed his low cost solar wax melter which is made for about $15. It works great for processing wax in one step.
Honey Extracting continued
Measuring the load of Varroa mites is critical now. This is the time the hive needs to be strong and nurse bees need to be healthy. If the hive is weak‐ened by Varroa mites, it will be hard for winter bees to be raised and the
hive will not survive to spring. Winter adult bees have fat stores with nutrients which enable them to live up to 6 months.
If you use a sugar shake method to determine mite load, you need to treat for mites if they are 2% or more (6 mites/300 bees in your sample). A sticky board mite collection is less accurate unless you know the population of bees in the hive; however, you can use it every 2 or 3 weeks to show how the mites are increasing over time. If I have a drop of 24 mites/day or more from a strong hive I know I need to treat.
LCBA does not recommend specific Varroa controls, but LCBA does strongly suggest that you control the mite populations in your hives. If you are in an isolated area and decide not to treat, this is your decision. However, if you live in an urban area, remember that you have other hives within foraging distance. If you decide not to treat for mites, bees from your hive will infect these nearby hives because your hive becomes a “mite bomb”. In its weakened state other bees from nearby hives will rob your untreated hive and pick up mites. This is why I must treat for mites 3 times/year!
The definitive 2016 source for Varroa mite control is Tools for Varroa Management. You can download this from the first page of our website: www.lcbaor.org
‐ Varroa controls for post‐honey harvest (NOW) is on page 12
Descriptions of Varroa controls start on page 13
You need to pick your treatment and READ THE DIRECTIONS!
Apivar This is a synthetic miticide. All surplus honey needs to be removed before using this. It is effective if used correctly.
Api Life Var Consists of thymol, eucalyptus oil, menthol and camphor. All surplus honey needs to be removed or honey will taste like thyme Use between 65 and 85 degrees F Must use every week for 3 weeks
Apiguard Consists of Thymol Use twice. Replace after 10 days if tub is empty, otherwise replace on day 16. All surplus honey needs to be removed or honey will taste like thyme Use between 60 and 104 degrees F
Hopguard II The effectiveness is not proven, but may be a good “knock down” of phoretic Varroa mites. It has mixed results.
Miticides by Judy Scher, LCBA Webmaster
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Sunday, July 24th, Francis and Fran Rothauge, Sadie Thorin and Larry Larson were hosts in the grange building at the Lane County Fair. They answered questions and encouraged people to vote for their favorite grange display.
Ken and Dave Creasey set up our display and Pam Leavitt, Nancy Ograin , Katharine Hunt along with her granddaughters Artemisia and Ivie did the decorations. London Grange #937, in Cottage Grove, won the “People’s Choice” award. We had over 20 honey entries. Thanks to all those who entered honey. Nancy Ograin’s medium honey won “Best in Show”.
1st Place 2nd Place 3rd Place Water White Honey Mathew Gardens Dynamic Spring — Light Honey Beacons Best Judy Scher Buzzin Bees Dark Honey Katharine Hunt Fruits & Flowers Chuck Hunt Medium Honey Nancy Ograin Ken Ograin — Chunk Honey Katharine Hunt Chuck Hunt — Wax Jen Hornaday Ken Ograin Nancy Ograin The first place winners will be awarded a $10 premium from LCBA at our August
Busy Bee-“Giving Back to the Hive”
Left to right - Francis & Fran Rothauge, Larry Larson, Sadie Thorin
Left to right: Pam Leavitt, Ivie, Artemisia, Katharine Hunt, Nancy Ograin
Honey Entries
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1. August is one of the most important months of the year for beekeepers. The survival of your hive(s) through the winter into the following spring is determined by what you do this month in terms of disease and pest prevention, stores for the winter, and yellow jacket protection.
2. All honey to be used for human consumption should be removed from the hive by August 15 and either stored or extracted. There are a number of alternatives for mite con-trol available and, if you have screen bottom boards, it is time to monitor the mite populations in your hive(s). What-ever type of mite control you use, make sure to follow the directions given for that type of control and do not leave strips in the hives longer than required. Grease patties should be placed on the hives. The patties will take care of tracheal mites.
3. The honey flow is largely over in the Willamette Valley by August. Be careful exposing honey and inducing robbing
in your bees. Make sure that your bees have sufficient honey stores to survive the winter. In the Willamette Valley this is approximately 50 to 60 pounds of honey or one full western super. Feed hives, that are too light, a thick sugar syrup.
4. Yellow jackets begin to appear in late July. August is a critical month for these pests. Carefully observe your hives to see if they are being attacked. Reduce entrances, close up all alternative entrances, and place yellow jacket traps around your hives if they are under attack.
5. Wax moths are also active in August. Strong hives will protect themselves but supers taken off the hives are vul-nerable. If wax moths are a concern either use Paramoth or place the supers or frames in a freezer.
6. Make sure that your bees have a source of clean water this month as they will use the water for cooling in the heat of August. Also, if they are not being attacked by yellow jackets, provide small ventilation openings in the hive for the bees to help cool the hive. These may be as small as toothpicks placed under the top cover or between boxes.
August Beekeeping Tips
by Chuck Hunt, LCBA Member
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August is a critical time for mite management
In the temperate regions of the northern hemisphere, August is a critical time for mite management. Every year I find it hard to think about mites
during spring and summer since they are nearly invisible. At that time of year, nearly 90% of all mites hide within the capped brood cells, out of sight and out of mind. So unless you are in the habit of plucking pupae from their cells, you hardly ever see a mite. Your sticky board counts are low and your colonies are booming. Mites, it seems, are not the problem everyone talks about. But it all changes in the eighth month. Sort of. It actually began to change at the summer solstice, back in June. That’s when your colony growth rate began to level off. Although hardly noticeable at first, the queen lays fewer and fewer eggs per day and the colony gradually shrinks as the weather warms into July and August.
Mite populations rise as bee populations fall
But while the bee population declines, the mite population continues to rise. More gravid female mites roam the hive looking for soon-to-be-capped brood cells where they can lay their eggs. If there are not enough brood cells, the mites will even double up and share the ones available. And by August, the colony is tired of drones and is actively expelling them. The queen isn’t laying many drones either, so all the female mites opt for what remains: worker brood. Left untreated, an average-sized colony that may have had 6 mites per 100 bees at the end of June, may find itself hosting 35 mites per 100 bees by September 1, a nearly seven-fold increase. Assuming you started the season with zero mites, the rate of increase is dependent on the number of mites that joined your colony during the spring and summer. Mites can arrive in many ways but drifting bees, especially drones, probably bring in the most. A colony with ten introduc-tions could end up with five times as many mites as a colony with two introductions, depending on when they occurred.
More mites carry disease to more bees
A six- or seven-fold increase in the number of mites per bee means a similar increase in the number of bees infected with the viral diseases that mites spread. Worse, by fall the mites are not divided among the drones and workers but reside on the workers alone. While the number of mites per bee gradually rises in June and July, by August it literally explodes. Unfortunately—and here is the real kicker—the worker bees that are reared in September and October are the bees that will see the colony through until next spring.
Winter bees can’t afford to be sick
While a spring or summer forager may live a mere four to six weeks, a so-called winter bee (or diutinus bee) may live up to ten months. Since these long-lived bees care for the colony during the cold and confined winter months, they cannot be sick at the beginning or the colony will not survive. To raise healthy bees in September and October, your colony needs to be virtually mite-free by the end of Au-gust, the very month that the mites-per-bee ratio explodes. So if you are going to treat your hives, August is the month to do it.
Timing is everything
For many years, I read that any treatments should be com-pleted by August 31. But lately I’ve noticed that many groups are recommending an August 15 completion date for the best shot at healthy winter colonies. That means if you are doing a three-week course of something like ApiLife VAR, you should have already started. Many beekeepers like to treat the mites in August and then again in the dead of winter when little capped brood is present. A second treatment in winter may be especially important in very strong colonies that robbed other colonies in the fall. Rob-bers often attack a weak colony that is dying. In addition to bringing home the honey, they bring home the mites as well. But however you decide to proceed, remember that timing is eve-rything. The ultimate goal is to raise a crop of disease-free bees that can take care of themselves from fall until spring.
Article from Honey Bee Suite by Rusty Burlew
Varroa destructor on honey bee pupa. Photo by Gilles San Martin from Namur, Belgium [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wiki-media Commons
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Bee-related classified ads cost $5.00/month for non-members and are free to members. Classified ads run for three issues and may be renewed by contacting the editor. Bee-related business ads cost
$35 a year. To place an ad, contact Nancy Ograin by the 1st of the month. 541-935-7065 or via e-mail [email protected].
NEWSLETTER CONTACT INFORMATION
The LCBA newsletter is published eleven times a year by the Lane County Beekeepers Association, 130 Hansen Lane, Eugene, OR 97404. Sample copies may be re-quested from the editor. Copyright resides with individ-ual contributors. If you would like to reprint anything you see here, please contact the editor. Permission is normally granted freely for non-profit use. For adver-tisements, please contact the editor or the association treasurer by the first of the month.
Editor: Nancy Ograin 541-935-7065, [email protected]
Classified Ads
For Sale Swarms
I will have swarms for sale, $35, usually at the beginning in April. Call to get your name on the waiting list; first come first serve basis. Julie - Message phone: 541-937-2577
For Sale Warré Beehives
I sell complete kits for Warré top-bar beehives and also fully assembled hives.
See the details at www.beeologique.com
(under products)
I also offer free guidance in Warré top-bar beekeeping.
Bill Wood
~ (541) 687-8211 ~ [email protected]
For Sale NUCS
Nucs on western and/or deep frames, $125 + $10 box de-posit. 2016 queens raised from untreated, local, survivor stock. Contact Kelly Goodwin: Email [email protected] or call 541-925-3028.
Bees For Sale
Jen Hornaday with Healthy Bees = Healthy Gardens has bees for sale
Different size hives including Nucs, western, & deep boxes of bees for sale at various prices. Please call Jen for details @ 541-914-2225. Also looking for helpers in the field with my hives. You will learn a lot of hands on bee keeping skills. Need to have a strong back. [email protected]
For Sale Extracting Equipment
Maxant motorized 9 frame extractor model 3100 with legs and wooden base.
Large plastic double uncapping tank with stainless grate, honey gate and new mesh liner Pierce Mfg master model electric. Uncapping knife All in excellent condition! Contact Barbara Bajec for prices. Email [email protected] or text/call 541-767-9086
For Sale Protein Power
Mann Lake protein powder
2lb bag - $4 3lb bag - $5 Contact Polly Habliston 541-3461-0339 [email protected]
For discounts on American Bee Journal subscriptions contact Nancy Ograin for discount forms.
For Sale Supers
10 ea Eight frame medium (6 5/8”) supers (without frames) $18 ea The supers are brand new, assembled and painted.
Contact Baruch HaLevi (916) 396-8405 [email protected]
For Sale Bee Equipment
Everything needed for 3 complete hives plus tools and bee suit. Many extras.
For a complete list and contact information send email to [email protected]
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