Lakesha Cole Fashion Textile Survey

Introduction

From someone who only knew of textile from reading a garment tag, this class and this project has been the ultimate learning experience for me.

The inspiration for this project came to me as I strolled through the National Museum of the Marine Corps located in Quantico, VA.

The National Museum of the Marine Corps is a lasting tribute to the U.S. Marines--past, present and future. Whether you take the Legacy Walk, a display of photos, maps, iconic artifacts and life-like cast figures that capture the courage of individual Marines and the evolution of the Marine Corps as a whole from 1775-Present, or tour the World War I or II exhibits, you are met with lifelike exhibits that highlight war time innovation in tactics, equipment and garments used and worn during each period.

Textiles have an assortment of uses of which, the most common is apparel. From cotton, to khaki, to gabardine, the captive displays of various military uniforms literally captures the fabrics that are part of our country’s history,

Here’s a snapshot of what I observed and learned….

History

Since the 18th century, U.S. military uniforms have been implemented as a way to encourage unit cohesion. Today, the uniform is a reflection of a member's branch of service and rank. Each service has a variety of uniforms, to be worn for specific assignments or events.

The Revolutionary War In 1779, General George Washington selected a blue uniform for his men, in stark contrast to the red uniforms of the British Army. The uniforms were characterized by white pantaloons, exposed waistcoats and button-back lapels and cuffs.

1817 By 1817, gray pantaloons replaced the less-practical white pantaloons. By 1832, light blue pantaloons had replaced the gray. By this time, under Napoleonic influence, coats were fastened and the waistcoat no longer exposed. Metal insignia appeared around 1832.

The Civil War In 1851, for economic reasons, the short coats of Napoleon's time were lengthened into tunics or frock coats, accompanied by black leather belts. During the Civil War, the Confederate army elected to wear gray pantaloons. The Union army adopted a French cap. John Whiteclay Chambers II. "Uniforms." The Oxford Companion to American Military History. 2000. Retrieved May 09, 2011 from Encyclopedia.com: http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1O126-Uniforms.html

History

1872 In 1872, the U.S. military adopted a service dress, in addition to the everyday uniform. 1902

In 1902, with the adoption of the smokeless rifle, the Army adopted the khaki or olive drab to better conceal troops who were no longer concealed by traditional weaponry. Blue was reserved for the dress uniform. Sleeve insignias were added during World War I.

Modern Times Today, Army, Air Force and Marine members wear camouflage battle dress uniforms (BDUs) and black boots. Sailor's service dress consists of blue or white jumpers. Naval officer's daily dress consists of a khaki blouse, trousers and black dress shoes or pumps. John Whiteclay Chambers II. "Uniforms." The Oxford Companion to American Military History. 2000. Retrieved May 09, 2011 from Encyclopedia.com: http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1O126-Uniforms.html

Dress Blues

The most distinctive uniform in the military.

Every detail of the dress blues uniform reflects the proud legacy of Marines who have served for more than two centuries:

The buttons featuring the eagle and anchor have been on the uniform since 1804, making them the oldest military insignia in continued use.

The "blood stripe" runs down each trouser leg of the dress blues worn by noncommissioned officers, staff noncommissioned officers and officers. The solid red stripe became part of the uniform in 1849. Today, it serves to honor the memory of fallen comrades.

The collar of today’s dress blues reflects the original Marine uniform of the American Revolution, which had a high leather neck to help protect Marines from sword blows.

Because it embodies Marine Corps history, rigorous standards apply to wearing this uniform and every Marine upholds those standards with pride.

Me and my husband GySgt Cole

Enlisted USMC Dress Blues Jacket, trouser and skirt made of gabardine. Shirt made of khaki.

gab·ar·dine - [gab-er-deen, gab-er-deen]

A tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats, trousers uniforms, and other garments. The fiber used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted wool, but may also be cotton, texturized polyester, or a blend. Gabardine is woven as a warp-faced steep or regular twill, with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and smooth surface on the back. Garbardine always has many more warp than filling yarns.[1][2][3

The Uniforms of the United States Marine Corps serve to distinguish Marines from members of other services. Among current uniforms in the United States Armed Forces, the Marines' uniforms have been in service the longest. The Marine Dress Blue uniform has, with few changes, been worn in essentially its current form since the 19th century.

1 Kadolph (2007), pp. 240, 472 2 Cumming (2010), p. 248. 3 Picken (1957), p. 145

Khaki

Over the decades, popular culture worldwide has come to recognize the term khaki as meaning a soft cotton blend material of a tan shade. Additional pop culture influences have brought the term to mean specifically pants of a tan shade made from cotton material.

Khakis in military use were originally employed due to their camouflage qualities in more arid regions. The appeal of these pants has little to do with camouflage in the world of popular fashion and has become synonymous with comfort and flexibility of wardrobe.

Khaki military clothing has a long-standing history, spanning nearly two centuries. However, its popularity in personal fashion came into its own in the 1950s, with the emergence of more comfortable and casual clothing for everyday wear.

Enlisted USMC Service Uniforms

khak·i - [kak-ee, kah-kee]

A light brown fabric used primarily for military uniforms. It is made with cotton, wool, or combinations of these fibers, as well as with blends of synthetic fibers. It is made in a variety of weaves, such as serge.

The United States Army adopted khaki during the Spanish American War (1898). It has become de rigueur for military uniforms of militaries the world over (e.g., the United States Navy and the United States Marine Corps), as well as the police forces of many South Asian countries and U.S. states and counties. It has also spread to civilian clothing, where "khakis" since the 1950s has meant tan cotton twill pants/trousers.

Jacket, trouser and skirt made of gabardine. Shirt made of khaki.

Nylon Cotton Twills

Known for its versatility, cotton is the most prevalent fabric in the world, providing lightweight, breathable protection from the elements. Cotton can be woven into a twill pattern in order to give it more strength and durability.

Twill is the name given to fabric woven in such a way as to produce diagonal parallel ribs. These ribs strengthen the fabric.

Cotton twill fabric is heavier than normal cotton material, making it more durable and resistant to tears and wrinkles. At the same time, cotton twill is light, breathable and water-resistant.

Enlisted USMC Utility Uniforms Made of 50-Cotton and 50-Nylon

50% ny·lon [nahy-lon] 50% cot·ton - [kot-n]

• ripstop weave prevents tears • 6.7oz psy (all-season weight) • synthetic fabric blend featuring DuPont® nylon • fade resistant • shrink resistant • wrinkle resistant • wind resistant • quick drying • durable

Marine Corps utility uniforms are made of 50% nylon and 50% cotton, in a ripstop fabric designed to withstand repeated washings and the physical demands of a Marine’s life.