LA VITICOLTURA E L’ENOLOGIA DEL PROSSIMO … · MONIKA CHRISTMANN Presidente Organisation internationale de la vigne et du vin (Oiv) Responsabile Istituto per l’Enologia Hochschule

MONIKA CHRISTMANN Presidente Organisation internationale de la vigne et du vin (Oiv)

Responsabile Istituto per l’Enologia Hochschule - Geisenheim

LA VITICOLTURA E L’ENOLOGIA

DEL PROSSIMO TRENTENNIO

• Harvesting Techniques

• Transport systems

• Destemmer / Crusher

• Skin Contact Time

• Pressing

• Must Clarification (use of enzymes…)

• (Pasteurisation)

• Yeast Selection

• Fermentation Temperature

FOCUS IN LAST 20 YEARS WAS ON OPTIMIZING TECHNOLOGIES

„Gentle Grape Processing“

To minimize mechanical stress and avoid bitterness and

off-flavours in wine

Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 86 07.06.2016

WHAT IS COMING ?

WHY?

(THE FUTURE HAS ALREADY STARTED!)

WHY ?

1. Climate change

2. Technical progress

3. Economical aspects of new vers. traditional techniques

4. Increased demand in in field of consumer protection

5. Change in consumer expectation

6. Stronger international competition

7. International harmonisation of rules and laws ……

87


WHAT PROBLEMS SHOULD WE EXPECT?


PREDICTED CHANGE OF TEMPERATUR IN EUROPE

Schär et al. (2004) Nature 427, 332-336


2000 PROGNOSIS:

SINCE 2003 FACTS:

Low Acidity, high pH

More Alcohol

More Rot / Botrytis

Sun burn, Pinking, Environmental Impact (fire)…

PREDICTED TRENDS (TSS)

Hofmann und Schultz, in prep.

To

tal S

olu

ble

So

lids [

o O

e]

year

Geisenheim , warm scenario

IMPACT OF CLIMATE CHANGE

Conibear 2006

Scholten et al. 2013

1°C rise in temperature ~ is connected to an increase of wine ranking by (100-Punkte Sceme):

→21,5 P. Rhein; 20,8 P. Mosel; 12,7 P. Burgundy; 10,4P. St.Emilon+Pomerol

G.V.Jones et al. 2005 Klimadaten 1950-1999

Gesam

tsäure

(gL

-1)

Hofmann und Schultz, in prep.

PREDICTED TRENDS (TA) (RIESLING 1951 - 2091)

To

tal a

cid

ity [g L

-1]

year

cold - hot

dry

- w

et

pre

cip

itati

on

[mm

]

average daily temperature [o C]

Temperature and rainfall during the ripening period [1955-2014, Geisenheim]

Schultz, H.R., and Hofmann, M. (2015).

WATER STRESS 2003; FUTURE???

Gruber and Schultz, 2005


PROBLEMS + REACTIONS

Low acidity + high pH

Reaction: Acid addition, Bipolare Membranes

More Alcohol

Reaction: Alcohol reduction, Sugar reduction

Sun burn, Environmental impact (Fire…),

Rot, Botrytis

Reaction:„non-allergenic fining materials“, Membrane processes

--- new technologies

--- traditional methods OIV responsibilities!


ALCOHOL MANAGEMENT

We need Flexibility depending on the vintage!

- Increase (traditional) or

- Reduction (new) of alcohol or sugar!

Alcohol reduces

Fruit

Aroma intensity

Acidity

´

Alcohol inceases

Warmness

Body

Adstringency

Sweetness

Saltiness? (Yu& Pickering 2008)

SENSORICAL IMPACT OF ALCOHOL

Schmitt, 2015


ALCOHOL REDUCTION

In Must

1. Vineyard adaptation

2. Sugar reduction by Filtration

3. „Non - productive“ Yeasts

4. Enzymatic reduction of sugar

5. Water addition

BMELV-Project in Geisenheim started in 2010 until May 2014

OIV will start to focus on microbiological options in the upcoming

years

In Wine

1. All physical Techniques accepted

2. Max. 20% reduction of existing alcohol

with no declaration

3. „Discontent“ in Southern Europe and

Overseas

4. New product „categories“ demanded

IMPACT OF PARTIAL ALCOHOL REDUCTION BY 2% VOL

No differences at -2% vol. control vs triangle test!

(vergl. Schmitt 2015, Urbano et al. 2007, Lisanti et al. 2012, Bes et al. 2010., Meillon et al. 2010 und Diban et al. 2008)

At 2% vol. Alcohol reduction no significant differences for the various techniques

IMPACT OF PARTIAL ALCOHOL REDUCTION BY 2% VOL.

A A A A A

0,00

0,50

1,00

1,50

2,00

2,50

3,00

3,50

4,00

Durchschn. Rangziffer

2012er Weissburgunder

n= 2x12

Schmitt 2015

2012 Pinot blanc

At 2% vol. Alcohol reduction no significant differences for the various techniques

IMPACT OF PARTIAL ALCOHOL REDUCTION BY 2% VOL.

n= 2x12

Schmitt 2015

A A A A A A

0,000,501,001,502,002,503,003,504,004,50

Durchschn. Rangziffer

2012er Riesling 2012 Riesling


ACID MANAGEMENT

Acid Addition (legal)

Tartaric acid

Malic acid

Lactic acid

(Citric acid)

max. 4 g/l

(measured as Tartaric acid)

Restriction in EU:

1,5 g/l in must

2,5 g/l in wine

Was in pipeline (now legal):

„Concentration“ of acids in wine by

reduction of specific minerals

(Filtration with bipolar membranes

similiar to Electro-Dialysis)

=> Opinion of some experts: More

„natural“ than acid addition


„FACE“ TO ESTABLISH AN „“EARLY WARNING SYSTEM

Geisenheimer Free Air Carbon Dioxide Enrichment - FACE

für Sonderkulturen

ObstReben ZierpflanzenGemüse

2010 –1-jährige Kulturen

Freiland-Infrastruktur zur Überprüfung der Wirkungzukünftiger Klimabedingungen auf den Anbau (Boden-Pflanze-Atmosphäre), die biotischen (Mikroorganismen,Pflanzenpathogene)– und abiotischen Interaktionen mitunterschiedlichen Umweltfaktoren (z.B. Wasser,Temperatur), die stoffliche Zusammensetzung derProdukte sowie deren Sensorik und Verarbeitung

mehrjährige Kulturen einjährige Kulturen

Working Package

2

Working Package

1• Anbau –abiotische Interaktionen

Wasser + Temperatur

Working Package

3

• Produktqualität (Inhaltsstoffe)

• Prozessqualität (Sensorik)

Working Package

4• Modellierung – Bilanzierung

• Anbau –biotische Interaktionen Mikroorganismen,

Pflanzenkrankheiten

TECHNICAL PROGRESS

Every enological treatment has its reasons and is based

on the technical possibilities at the time!

But

The stone ages did not end because all of a sudden they were running out of stones!

(Prof. Dr. Sakkie Pretorius AWRI)

107

European Wine industry often very concerned about

new developments!

Emotional discussion about: „Industrial wines versus hand crafted wines“

Where is the limit?

How can this be determined?


EXAMPLE: FILTRATION

Is a sheet filtration with 2-3 plates ok and the same

filter with 100 plates already industrial?

TOO OFTEN OVERLOOKED:

ALL TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES ARE ALSO

CONSTANTLY RE-EVALUATED BY OIV!

(and if necessary taken of the list !)

1

ECONOMICAL ASPECTS

(NEW UND TRADITIONAL TECHNOLOGIES)

• Barrique – Chips

• Aging „sur lie“ – Addition of Mannoproteins

• Cold stabilization – Addition of Metatartaric acid or CMC

• Filtration – DMDC (Velcorin)

• Additive – substractive Enrichment

• Acid addition - „Filtration“ with bipolare Membranes

not all new Techniques are lower in cost!

Product „Quality“ also taken into consideration!

112

CONSUMER PROTECTION

???? important! But consider circumstances!!!

• „Allergenic“ Fining Materials Is there really a risk?

Demand of declaration ; new products i.e. made from potatoes?

Standardized wine making procedures (EFSA)

• SO2 as Biozid no Alternatives for barrels!

Risk without use of SO2 much higher!

Or no more barrels???

• SO2 in general Discussion about reduction is very dangerous!

113

CONSUMER DEMAND / EXPECTATIONS

• Traceability (existing law !!!!)

Every consumer has the right to get information with what material the wine has

been treated or been in contact with!

• „Transparent“ Wine

• No Residues

• Healthy

• (Traditional)

• Sustainable

• „Recognizable“ (standardized)

• Not too expensive

Often only with new physical techniques possible!

114


VERY EMOTIONAL AND CONTROVERSIAL DISCUSSION ABOUT:

• Tradition

• Sustainability (even for methods of analysis)

• Competition

• Products to fit the market

• Energy efficiency

• CO2- und Water Footprint……………..

CONSUMER PROTECTION

???? important! But consider circumstances!!!

• „Allergenic“ Fining Materials Is there really a risk?

Demand of declaration ; new products i.e. made from potatoes?

Standardized wine making procedures (EFSA)

• SO2 as Biozid no Alternatives for barrels!

Risk without use of SO2 much higher!

Or no more barrels???

• SO2 in general Discussion about reduction is very dangerous!

116

CONSUMER DEMAND

• Traceability (existing law !!!!)

Every consumer has the right to get information with what

material the wine has been treated or been in contact with!

• „Transparent“ Wine

• No Residues

• Healthy

• (Traditional)

• Sustainable

• „Recognizable“ (standardized)

• Not too expensive

Often only with new physical techniques possible!

117

INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION

Wine production increasing while wine consumption decreasing!

New wine producing countries (India, China, Brasil, Thailand…)

Different cost for production

Different laws and regulations in global winemaking

bilateral contracts unfair competition

„New Marketing strategies“:

Organic-wine biodynamic „natural“ „orange“ ???

118

INTERNATIONAL HARMONIZATION OF LAWS

„New“ Position of OIV but:

• Stronger international impact caused by principle of

„Consensus“

• Technical Resolutions often blocked by political Limits

This discussion needs to be solved in other „areas“

119

CONCLUSION

Many challenges to face but:

1. We can manage to produce our styles of wine but we need

(consumers to agree to) new technical possibilities!

Or

2. The consumer needs to adapt to new wine styles!

(My guess: I think that membran technologies will become very important in the future!)


WE

HAVE TO MEET

THESE CHALLENGES!

(AND WE WILL !!!!)

Documents

LA VITICOLTURA E L’ENOLOGIA DEL PROSSIMO … · MONIKA CHRISTMANN Presidente Organisation internationale de la vigne et du vin (Oiv) Responsabile Istituto per l’Enologia Hochschule