La Dolce Vita Down Under - Anita Carmin

8/9/2019 La Dolce Vita Down Under - Anita Carmin

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Fr m p: te uya Wakuda a ed lamb wi mi ;C ef te in i ep nym u e au an ; and sydney

pa kling kyline.

V i r t u o s o i n s i g h t s32

We pass by Nicole Kidmans and Russell Croweswaterfront digs, cruise down Castlereagh Street, the RodeoDrive of Sydney, and make a special trip to up-and-comingDanks Street, a hip arts hub with nine galleries under oneroof. Im dying to nosh at nearby Sopra, the happeningcaf attached to Fratelli Fresh, where Sydney foodies andchefs shop for handmade pastas, unusual produce, and

all manner of gourmet goodies. But were conserving ourappetites for this evenings gustatory marathon. Dont ask me how, but Jill managed to snagthe best table at Tetsuyas for our eagerly awaited, 16-course degustation dinner. This was nosmall feat, as Tetsuya Wakudas eponymous restaurant is soacclaimed many rate it the best restaurant in Australia,if not the planet that it can take months to secure areservation. It helps that Jill is on a first-name basis withTets, who makes an impromptu visit to our table to say hello and oblige us with a photo.

Japanese-born Tetsuya arrived in Sydney in 1982 witha small suitcase, a limited grasp of English, and littleawareness of Australia other than there were lots of koalas and kangaroos around. Hes indicative of theindustrious immigrants who have made Sydney thedynamic multicultural city that it is. After seven years inthe restaurant business, he opened his own place, wherefoodies immediately embraced his elegant and eclecticdishes marrying French cooking techniques with a Japanesepenchant for seasonal flavors. A perfect example: Tetsuyassignature confit of Tasmanian ocean trout, which tonightis served with a kelp, apple, daikon, and wasabi salad.

This is followed by a terrine of Queensland spanner crabwith avocado; grilled fillet of barramundi with braisedbaby fennel; and twice-cooked spatchcock with gobo (burdock root).

From start (chilled corn soup with saffron and vanillaice cream) to finish (chocolate ganache with green tea andred beans), each course is a delicate work of art. Whatsmore, the degustations provide an opportunity to taste awide range of Australian varietals. And since our short stay doesnt allow for a wine country excursion, Robert and Irelish the opportunity to sample everything from a 2003Clover Hill Blanc de Blanc, a sparkling chardonnay produced

in northeast Tasmania, to a lovely 2003 Parker Estate Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon from South AustraliasCoonawarra region.

Its nearly midnight by the time we head back to TheObservatory Hotel, which comes highly recommended dueto its ideal location in the historic Rocks District. Not only is The Observatory close to all the citys famous sites andculinary attractions, its a foodie destination in and of itself,offering Galileo, Sydneys leading five-star hotel restaurant.

Theres also the stylish Martini Club, the ideal retreat forsipping signature martinis and enjoying Rat Pack classics.


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While Sydney is stunning on the ground, its spectacular by air. Which is why EuroPanache has arranged a morning seaplaneflight showcasing not only the worlds most photographedharbor, but also the series of breathtaking beaches hugging thenorthern coastline. After 20 minutes aloft, we land docksideat Cottage Point Inn, once a boatshed and general store, now an award-winning restaurant perched on the waters edge inthe heart of Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. A more tranquilsetting does not exist, and barely 12 hours after our last repast,were ordering a pinot noir from Western Australia to accompany our three-course lunch on the deck.

We begin with chilled tomato and basil soup, topped with

white anchovies, cucumber jelly, avocado puree, and Yarra Valley salmon roe. Robert chooses the Hiramasa kingfish fillet for hismain course; I opt for the soy glazed duck breast with caramelizedblack fig. We even manage to polish off two desserts a feather-light banana and honey souffl and an exquisite Tunisian orangecake before our seaplane returns to whisk us back to Sydney.

Our schedule allows for one more Aussieadventure: a trip to the majestic Blue MountainsNational Park, located just 90 minutes outside of Sydney.Named a World Heritage Site in 2000, the Greater BlueMountains Area attracts outdoor enthusiasts and gourmandsalike as chefs here outdo each other, showcasing the fresh localproduce in a variety of innovative ways. We have reservations atLilianfels Blue Mountains Resort & Spa, the former nineteenth-century summer retreat of Sir Frederick Darley, who couldnot have chosen a better site on which to build his Euro-stylecountry estate. Surrounded by two acres of lush English gardens,its just a stones throw from the famous Three Sisters, the

oft-photographed sandstone formation that towers above the Jamison Valley.

We even manage to polish offtwo desserts before our seaplane returns

to whisk us back to Sydney.

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goQantas Airlines offers a number of non-stopflights to Sydney from San Francisco and LosAngeles, along with daily-direct service from New

York (JFK) via LA. In addition, a variety of cruiselines feature itineraries that begin or end in Sydney,presenting the perfect opportunity to visit thisexciting city. Your Virtuoso travel advisor can helpselect the cruise thats right for you.

seeCalling on its innumerable local connections,EuroPanache works with your Virtuoso travel

advisor to create customized programs and uniqueexperiences perfectly tailored to your interests from culinary adventures in the Blue Mountains toprivate winery tours in the Hunter Valley.

stay SYDNEYLocated in Sydneys historic Rocks District, TheObservatory Hotel, an Orient-Express Hotel , isjust a short stroll from the Sydney Harbour Bridge,the iconic Opera House, and the vibrant restaurantsof King Street Wharf. The 100 individually decorated

guestrooms include 12 stylish suites. (Our favorite:#313, a junior suite with a wraparound terrace.) Therenowned Day Spa features a subterranean indoorswimming pool lit by a fiber-optic galaxy of twinkling stars. In Galileo, Executive Chef Masahiko

Yomoda offers fine French dining with surprisinginternational influences. Virtuoso guests receivea room upgrade on arrival, if available; breakfastdaily; fresh strawberries upon arrival; and early check-in and late checkout, if available. Contact yourVirtuoso travel advisor for up-to-the-minute pricing.

stay THE BLUE MOUNTAINSSet on a cliff top overlooking the breathtaking BlueMountains, Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort &Spa, an Orient-Express Hotel , draws outdoor loversand foodies alike. The historic retreat offers indoorand outdoor pools, a luxurious spa, and the award-winning Darleys Restaurant serving contemporary Australian cuisine. A more casual dining option, TheGrille, has earned the coveted reputation of servingthe best steaks in the Blue Mountains. The hotelconcierge can arrange everything from gourmetpicnics to Breakfast with the Kangaroos eco tours.Virtuoso guests receive a room upgrade on arrival, if available; Continental breakfast daily; welcome giftupon arrival; and early check-in and late checkout,if available. Contact your Virtuoso travel advisor forup-to-the-minute pricing.

DOINg IT SAvOrINg NEwSOUTH wALES

Robert and I take full advantage of our time here. We descendthe Giant Stairway a series of 800-plus steps, many hewn outof the cliff to the valley, then ride the worlds steepest railway back to the top. The following morning, we embark with localguide Tim Tranter on a 6:00 a.m. private eco tour to observekangaroos in the wild. Kangaroos dine early in the morning, asdo we on fresh-out-of-the-oven pumpkin, honey, and orangejuice scones served with steaming hot coffee from the back of

Tims 4X4.Later, we indulge in the six-course tasting menu with

matching Australian wines at Darleys, Lilianfels signaturerestaurant. It is the beginning of autumn in Australia andExecutive Chef Hugh Whitehouse has created a seasonal menuincorporating the best-of-the-best local produce, nuts, late-season berries, and ripe black figs. Theres wild barramundion tonights degustation menu, served with Hawkesbury Riversquid, baby leeks, and Jerusalem artichokes. Theres also quailwith seared sea scallops and barberries, and a delicate NorthernRivers milk-fed veal with white asparagus and local walnuts.

Tonights meal is the perfect finale to our culinary odyssey. Traveling via foot, 4X4, train, and seaplane, weve covered a lotof gourmet territory in the past four days. Now, just one lastquestion remains.

Whats for dessert?

Fr m p: t e maje ic Lilianfel Blue M un ainre & spa; and a eal cliff ange .

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La Dolce Vita Down Under - Anita Carmin