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7/17/2019 Kovacs L Marosvecs en 2009 http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/kovacs-l-marosvecs-en-2009 1/12  The historical survey of Transsylvanian (Romania) Castle Garden An historical survey of Brâncoveneşti Castle Garden Lóránt Kovács * , Sapientia University, Tg-Mureş, Romania Albert Fekete ** , ** Corvinus University Budapest, Budapest, Hungary, Endre Kentelky ***  *** Sapientia University, Tg-Mure ş , Romania Abstract:  The aim of our research is the evaluation of Brâncovene şti Castle Park, assessing its actual stage as well as drafting its revitalization plan. The park’s dynamical changes were studied using military maps, which turned out to be more precise than any other map. Topographical measurements were carried out during the survey, accompanied by a conclusion regarding the present state of the park. We also took measurements of every reference point of the studied area on the investigated site. Our geodesic assessments, together with the park’s present state, contain the most important restoration and revitalization dates. The article also contains our conclusion and references about the investigation. Keywords: castle gardens, Brâncoveneşti, the Kemény family, Helikon, protection of national monuments, Albert Wass. The Kemény Castle Garden of Brâncovene ş ti  Brâncovene şti is situated in the N-E part of the Transylvanian basin, along the upper part of Mureş River at 10 km from Reghin. Câmpia Transilvaniei (Transylvanian Field Area) borders it in the west and the Carpathians in the east starting with the Gurghiu Alps. Brâncovene şti constitutes the “N-E end of Hungarian ethnic group” 1 ). Compared to the gentle hills of Câmpia Transilvaniei, the upper part of Mure ş river is grim, picturesque and girdled with fir trees, which was an important military frontier since Roman times. “God’s Chair” Hill (1380 m) is a peak situated N-E from Brâncoveneşti, whose silhouette can be seen well from the castle in fine weather. László K ővári described the peak from the castle: “It is on the right bank of Mure  ş  , extending to the foothills of the alps and it can be seen well from N-E of Brâncovene  şti. It is one of those peaks that forecast rain when foggy. It is one of the tallest peaks in the area. Fir trees surround it. There is clearing on its top, which is the most smiling, and the rock opened a gorgeous spring here. The appellation of this mountainous region and spring entitles us to believe that our ancestors used this mountain for pagan religious ceremonies; and the people like to think that the name derives from it: God’s Chair  Hill. According to tradition, it was Prince Saint Laszlo’s (Ladislaus, King of Hungary from 1077 to 1095) favourite hunting place.” 2  Brâncovene şti Castle was built on the right bank of Mureş river’s valley, so all in all we have a 60-70 km perspective in good weather conditions up to the northern part of the alps or south towards Tg.-Mureş. (Fig.1) As geographical names on old military maps testify, this area is also rich in salt, similarly to other parts of Transylvania. Many settlements have Salt-well in their appellation. The Salt Spa between Ideciu de Jos and Ideciu de Sus is a favourite place for holidaymakers. 1  Köpeczi et al., 1988, Erdély története I-III. Budapest, vol. I. 289.  2  Kővári, 1853, Erdély ritkaságai. Kolozsvár, 78. 

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The historical survey of Transsylvanian (Romania) Castle Garden

An historical survey of Brâncoveneşti Castle Garden

Lóránt Kovács*,Sapientia University, Tg-Mureş, Romania

Albert Fekete**,**Corvinus University Budapest, Budapest, Hungary,

Endre Kentelky*** ***

Sapientia University, Tg-Mureş, RomaniaAbstract: The aim of our research is the evaluation of Brâncoveneşti Castle Park, assessing its actualstage as well as drafting its revitalization plan. The park’s dynamical changes were studied using militarymaps, which turned out to be more precise than any other map. Topographical measurements were carriedout during the survey, accompanied by a conclusion regarding the present state of the park. We also tookmeasurements of every reference point of the studied area on the investigated site. Our geodesicassessments, together with the park’s present state, contain the most important restoration andrevitalization dates. The article also contains our conclusion and references about the investigation.

Keywords: castle gardens, Brâncoveneşti, the Kemény family, Helikon, protection of nationalmonuments, Albert Wass.

The Kemény Castle Garden of Brâncoveneşti Brâncoveneşti is situated in the N-E part of the Transylvanian basin, along the upperpart of Mureş River at 10 km from Reghin. Câmpia Transilvaniei (Transylvanian Field Area)borders it in the west and the Carpathians in the east starting with the Gurghiu Alps.Brâncoveneşti constitutes the “N-E end of Hungarian ethnic group”

1).Compared to the gentle hills of Câmpia Transilvaniei, the upper part of Mureş  river is grim,picturesque and girdled with fir trees, which was an important military frontier since Romantimes. “God’s Chair” Hill (1380 m) is a peak situated N-E from Brâncoveneşti, whose silhouettecan be seen well from the castle in fine weather. László Kővári described the peak from thecastle: “It is on the right bank of Mure ş , extending to the foothills of the alps and it can be seen

well from N-E of Brâncovene şti. It is one of those peaks that forecast rain when foggy. It is one

of the tallest peaks in the area. Fir trees surround it. There is clearing on its top, which is the

most smiling, and the rock opened a gorgeous spring here. The appellation of this mountainousregion and spring entitles us to believe that our ancestors used this mountain for pagan

religious ceremonies; and the people like to think that the name derives from it: God’s Chair

 Hill. According to tradition, it was Prince Saint Laszlo’s (Ladislaus, King of Hungary from

1077 to 1095) favourite hunting place.”2 

Brâncoveneşti Castle was built on the right bank of Mureş river’s valley, so all in all we have a60-70 km perspective in good weather conditions up to the northern part of the alps or southtowards Tg.-Mureş. (Fig.1)As geographical names on old military maps testify, this area is also rich in salt, similarly toother parts of Transylvania. Many settlements have Salt-well in their appellation. The Salt Spa between Ideciu de Jos and Ideciu de Sus is a favourite place for holidaymakers.

1 Köpeczi et al., 1988, Erdély története I-III. Budapest, vol. I. 289. 2 Kővári, 1853, Erdély ritkaságai. Kolozsvár, 78. 

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The stamped brick found in the castle garden in 1847 testifies that an Illyrian troop camp usedto be near the present day castle. The archeological excavations resulted in a Roman castrum in

the English park. The castrum was part of “limes dacicus”, a military frontier stronghold ofDacia’s defence line closing the border of the Roman Empire towards south.Szentiváni’s travelogue (1837) mentions that the people of Brâncoveneşti “lives on farming and

rafting...”3 Rafting was important, as before railroads only those forests were beneficial which

were close to Mureş or other river, otherwise larger quantities of trees could not be transported4 Brâncoveneşti is first mentioned when the borderline between Goreni and Aluniş  is drawn atBrâncoveneşti castle in 1228.5  We can deduce from the content of the certificate thatBrâncoveneşti was a royal ‘last stand’ castle, and as such, an economic centre as well. Royalcastles used to have large estates as well, and some of them, presumably due to the poormanagement of King Andras II., entered the property of high-rank noblemen 6 Although in thetime of Turks with storm and stress Transylvanian castles usually played an important defensiverole, Brâncoveneşti castle saw no battle at all. In 1558 it could still have been an attractive

estate, as its owner, Ferenc Kendi was betrayed and killed for it by Menyhért Balassa.7

 From this moment on the owners of the castle changed rapidly until 1648, when the latermonarch, János Kemény and his descendants obtained it.A register of the estate was filed in 1648 by order of György Rákóczi II. on the occasion ofbestowal. The inventory mentions that seven villages belonged to Brâncoveneşti manor on bothbanks of Mureş river: Brâncoveneşti, Săcalu de Pădure, Vătava, Ideciu de Sus, Deleni, Pietriş,Luieriu and a part of Suseni.8 

History of Tenure József Biró sums up the castle’s history of tenure as follows: “Brâncovene şti Castle has a

varied and hectic past; it was almost the estate of all Transylvanian noble families or

monarchs.”9 

Ákos Barcsay, who was made monarch by the Turks, was very unpopular and was not reallyaccepted as the real monarch. Soon after György Rákóczi’s death the majority of TransylvanianNoblemen’s Order appointed János Kemény, Rákoczi’s famous general as monarch, and he waselected legitimate monarch after Ákos Barcsay’s resignation on 1st January 1661.Brâncoveneşti estate belonged continuously to the Kemény family from Mănăstireni since1663.10 Evlia Cselebi, a Turkish traveler, wrote about monarch János Kemény the following: “Thisleader is at home in all philosophical sciences, proving a mastery in some strange and amazingsciences. When in chains, he said: If I escape from the ice pitfall and hostage, I have to be the

king of Transylvania after King Rákóczi and I will pour ash onto the ottomans fireplace...but

what’s the use? I cannot live for long, as your Mehmet will kill me.”11 

After the stormy changes of owners up to the 17th century, “almost nothing happened in thecastle”. The peaceful times favoured intellectual life on the estate, so Brâncoveneşti becamefavourable to arts. Of its many cultural aspects12 probably the most important is the foundation

3 Szentiváni M.,1986, Gyaloglat Erdélyben . Budapest, 76. 4 Köpeczi et al ., 1988, as cited, vol. III., 1559. 5 “in curso eiusdem Morus ad castrum Wecheu, et sub castro Wecheu flectitur ad dextram manum ” (in Entz, 1994,Erdély építészete a 11-13. században , Kolozsvár, 181-182).6 Kelemen, 1982, M ű vészettörténeti Tanulmányok , Bukarest, 189.7 Forgách, 1941, Martinuzzi és Izabella históriája, in Erdély öröksége, vol. I., Budapest, 103.

 

8 Kelemen, 1982, as cited above, p.191.9 Biró, J., no year, Erdély m ű vészete , Budapest, 53.10 Keresztes, Gy.,1995, Maros megyei kastélyok és udvarházak . Marosvásárhely, 29.11 Karácson, I., 1985, Evlia Cselebi török világutazó magyarországi utazásai, Budapest, 81.12 Rumour has it that Werbőczi wrote a part of his Tripartitum (Hungarian Book of Law) here and monarch JánosKemény also bequeathed us an impressive historical work here. Court of Appeal assessor, Simon Kemény IV., alsolived here until his death in 1826, whose financial help was powerful, as Farkas Bolyai testifies: “...hadn’t it been for

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of Erdélyi Helikon periodical. János Kemény returning from the US13He was not only a writerbut also the organizer of literature life in Transylvania between the two World Wars, and while

he was studying as a forest engineer in Wien he decided to consecrate his fortune to arts. Heinvited the 28 most representative figures of literary life of the time in his castle in June 1926,thus founding Transylvanian Helikon Society.14 From this moment on Brâncoveneşti castle wasthe venue of literary meetings each summer for almost two decades. The participants manytimes confessed orally and in their writings how important the unifying force characteristic toBrâncoveneşti community was for both writers and Transylvanian Hungarian friends ofliterature. As Aladár Kuncz mentioned, “among spiritual groups in Europe this was the most

unified and universal minority corps.” 15 When assessing the garden in 2004, the castle was the home of mentally challenged children.Public use was not new in the castle’s life, as at the turn of the 19th century Mrs. Kata Kemény(born Wass) ran a seminary here.16 

3. History of the Building 

“Transylvanian noblemen did not intend to build hospitable castles, so they wanted to have

strongly fortified, rejecting castles massively set in the ground, which could protect them.”17 

Brâncoveneşti exemplifies best the medieval Transylvanian castle style18  It is Transylvania’slargest river basin’s northernmost world historical monument.19 Its two-storeyed wings surrounda narrow court; its massive walls, the four corner towers and the bastions show that it wasdesigned for defence.20 (Fig.2) 

baron Simon Kemény, I would have been nothing.” (In: Biró, J.,1943, as cited above, 127); baron Zsigmond Kemény,

the founder of Hungarian psychological novel also worked a lot in the castle. (In: Biró, J.,1943, as cited above, 106);The castle became the property of baron Kálmán Kemény in the 1880s, whose wife, Polyxena Bánffy was a favouredlady companion in the English court. Brâncoveneşti state school came into being in 1887 due to her (In: Pallós, A..,1986, Marostorda vármegye és Marosvásárhely Szabad Királyi város népoktatási intézeteinek története ,Marosvásárhely). Many prominent figures visited the castle when it belonged to the Keménys: János Bánffy, Rudolfheir apparent to the throne, the Welsh Prince, who later became King Edward VII. of England, József archduke,András Bethlen minister of agriculture (In: Siemers, Ilona, 1999, Wass-kor , Marosvásárhely, 90. Siemers wasdaughter of Wass family of Ţaga branch.) 13 János Kemény was born in America, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, on 1st September 1903. His father, István, whowas banished, had to settle in the US. Their mother could not take care of the children alone after the father’s death,so she moved to her husband’s Transylvanian relatives in Iara. So János was raised at his parental grandfather.Kálmán Kemény decided to settle the castle’s case before his death: “for good and all” , thus he appointed János asthe second heir of the castle and the fortune. After the death of Ákos Kemény in 1923, János Kemény inherited

Brâncoveneşti castle. 14 “Brâncovene şti Helikon Society can be labelled as neither a movement nor a trend. Its members were not linkedby a common ideology. There was enough room for late romanticism, symbolism, realism and avant-garde ambitionsunder the Brâncovene şti lime trees. It lacked organizational structure; common cause and common responsibilitywas its sole organizer force and its only “membership card” was János Kemény’s friendly letter of invitation sentevery summer. Some of its members were:   Miklós Bánffy - conservatism, high-stepper manner; Ern ő  Ligeti -bourgeois radicalism; Károly Kós - popular democracy; Lajos Áprily - silent exigence; Áron Tamási - juvenile humour;Aladár Kuncz - liberalism, diplomatic suppleness; Sándor Reményik; Dezs ő  Kovács; Sándor Makkai; SándorTavaszy; Károly Molter; Géza Tabéry; György Szántó; Imre Kádár; Jen ő Szentimrei; Sándor Kacsó. Their periodical(Erdélyi Helikon), which appeared in 1928, represented the idea of public life based on literary-centered   culturalwork. (In: Pomogáts, Béla, 1983, A transzilvánizmus; Az Erdélyi Helikon ideológiája, Budapest, 70-73, 78.)15 Adamovits, S., no year, http://www.cograf.hu/erma/erma53/kemenyjanos.htm. 16 Biró, J., 1943, as cited above, 161.17 Csabai, I., 1934, Az erdélyi reneszánsz m ű vészet , Budapest,19.18 Biró, J., no year, as cited above, 53-54.19 Kelemen, Lajos, 1982, as cited above, 187. 20 *** ,1901, Az Osztrák-Magyar Monarchia írásban és képben. Budapest, vol. VII. 299-300.

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Various sources picture contradictory history regarding the history of the building. Comparingthe descriptions we concluded the following:

In Roman times there was already a fortress (castrum) on the salient near Mureş river due to itsstrategic importance. The Crown erected an earthen castle here after the foundation of the state.After the Tartar invasion the medieval castle was built presumably re-using the stones of thecastrum with quadrangular ground plan. Its oldest part is the S-W old tower and the adjoiningsouthern wing. The oldest construction was built of Mureş stones, but later reconstructions wereof brick.21 The renaissance form derives from the 1537 and 1555 constructions carried out byFerenc Kendi, Transylvanian voivode.During Rákóczi’s war of independence the castle suffered ravages and damages, but itsrestoration started in 1816 by order of Miklós Kemény, King’s Chief Judge. During the 1848revolution the castle was ravaged again. The “stylish restoration” was carried out according tothe plans of István Möller (the famous restorer of Hunedoara castle) in 1908, when the oldbastion was rebuilt and the castle was partially roofed over again. Biró mentions that this

restoration “makes its bleak, Transylvanian style insipid.” Its present good condition may be attributed to the multiple restorations. Nevertheless, it isimportant to highlight that the castle never took part in any battles and the world wars left itundamaged. The retreating German troops only “threw some amiable grenades and good

wishes towards it” in 1944.22 The interior court was banked up, lost its old style; the well, which was devised by SámuelHorváth hydraulic engineer in 1802, must have fallen victim of this banking up as well.23 In front of the southern facade stood monarch János Kemény’s barb dryer, facing Mureş river.24 In the Rákóczi inventory an octagonal summerhouse is mentioned lying in front of the smallgate of the inner castle. We may conclude the existence of a trellis from the shape of its ground-plan, which may have been where later barb dryer was. The most picturesque view of thevalley was from the monarch’s barb dryer where Mihály Szentiváni could presumably pry the

rafts men. As László Kővári formulates, we can conclude that this roofed place was unexistingin 1866. We find it possible that the cornered gate building was later founded on this building.The 1864 Rohbock engraving and the 1866 picture in the Kővári book (dating from 1843) onlyportray the interior castle wall as well as a new, impressive building towards S-W from thecastle, the two-storeyed coach-house.The castle was surrounded by an outer hedgerow plank and a moat, through which a drawbridgeled into the castle yard.25 The stone guarding lions at the entrance gate standing on the outerpillars of the bridge were destroyed during World War II.26  The lions must have got in front ofthe gate in the 20th century, which is also supported by József Biró’s remark: “there are still

statues scattered all over in Transylvanian parks; (...) among the newest ones the guarding

lions at the entrance of Brâncovene şti castle.”27 

History of the land and gardenThe study of old maps reveals that although the castle was built on a height, the area around it isfull of brooks, ditches and waterlogged lands. Endre Zrínyi, archeologist of Tg.-Mureş CountyMuseum concluded that “The initial castle was built on such a lucky place which is a mountain

at the same time; but it was surrounded by mires and waters, so it turned to a difficult prey to

enemies: a ‘a castle on mountain and water’.”28 

21 Kővári, L.., 1866, as cited above, 204. 

22 Kelemen, L. , 1982, as cited above, 193.23 B. Nagy, Margit, 1970, as cited above, 312.24 Kővári, L.., 1866, as cited above, 204.25 György Rákóczi’s I., Brâncoveneşti inventory (1648). 26 http://www.kemenyinfo.hu. 27 Biró, J., 1943, as cited above, 92. 28 Szépréti, Lilla, 1981, Régi és új világ. Kolozsvár, 78. 

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We concluded from the initial stormy history of the castle’s owners that the rapid changes ofowners up to the 17th century was not favourable for creating a significant ornamental garden

on the estate; anyway, this period was mainly characterised by profitable (kitchen) gardens ofnoblemen. Although one of the owners was the wife of György Rákóczi I., ZsuzsannaLórántffy (famous for her garden activity), we have no knowledge of an ornamental garden inBrâncoveneşti similar to the one in Făgăraş. Nothing is known about showing a similar interestin gardens of Anna Lónyai, wife of monarch János Kemény. As Brâncoveneşti castle was JánosKemény’s favourite place to stay (1648-1662), it is likely that the castle’s surrounding wasmade suitable for relaxation.The 1648 register shows that the land around the castle had multiple functions. There is anorchard with apple, pear, sour cherry and plum trees, kitchen garden with red onions andsaffron, a garden with fruit-trees, vineyard, flowers and a gardener’s shed and a third, so-called“Dogberry garden” with fruit and vegetables. There are more gardens with various agriculturalpurposes (one for bee-hives, one with the barn, one for the sheep) accompanied by the

buildings. However, their position is not known. There is a well in the castle’s yard. The poultryyard had peacocks too. The estate also had grass-fields, wheat- and oat-fields as well as beechforests and oak forests.29 There is no sign referring to garden on the first military survey30. Mureş  river splits into twobelow the settlement with a wooden bridge on both branches. There is a mill at the lower part ofthe narrower Mureş branch, which was already mentioned in the 1648 register. (Fig. 3) The second military survey mentions the garden behind the castle. An important element is theavenue starting from and leading to the western corner bastion and the surrounded grove withtrees to its east, which may be the old oak grove we can see today. The avenue ends in the roadonce leading to Bistriţa and, although there is no data about a baroque garden, it seems to bepart of a baroque composition guiding the look of wanderers coming from N-W towards thecastle tower. In the vicinity of the castle there were smaller outbuildings, including the two-

storeyed coach house. The Rose Forest can be found north from the castle, behind the garden.There is a surrounded place on a height in the forest that is cut through by Gödöcs and Leányvárbrooks. This place becomes important from the angle of the next two military surveys. Theuncontrolled river got three more islands below the castle. Szentiváni’s travelbook is from thisperiod and it mentions the famous cherry orchards in Ideciu de Sus, belonging to Brâncoveneştiestate. (Fig. 4)The third military survey already mentions explicitly the “Castle garden”  behind the castle.The surrounded bigger unit is divided into four smaller ones with regular tree plantations. Theexception is the middle, almost triangular part, where the trees are scattered. There is a cemeteryon the two sides of the farm road near the church. The garden continues up to Szálas Forest andRose Forest, where after the Leányvár brook, near Gödöcs brook one can find buildings on theformerly mentioned surrounded area. This is “Villa Redal”, according to the map caption. Thearea, which is west from Szálas Forest, is called ‘Lake leg’, so the area must have beenmarshland although it is situated far above the capricious island-builder and destroyer Mureş river. The boundary of ‘Lake leg’ is Patkányos brook, whose bed fits with the former roadleading to Bistriţa. There is a regular area north from the castle on the abyss between Szálas

29 Kővári, L.., 1853, Erdély ritkaságai. Kolozsvár. 30 The maps regarding Transylvania were drawn between 1769 and 1773 (Josephinische Aufnahme). The exact dateof the second military survey (Franzisische Aufnahme) referring to Transylvanian lands is difficult to ascertain.Although Emperor Franz II. orders another survey of the empire in 1806, the survey of Hungary’s present-dayterritory only starts in 1829 and it lasts up to 1866. As for the Transylvanian parts, we only have forestry maps fromthe 1830s to the 1860s, “which have been drawn by the local system (Sibiu – Ocna Sibiului) within the framework ofthe national survey. Thus the military survey of Transylvania in 1869 began within the above-mentioned national

framework. As the third military survey was ordered in the same year, the mapping of the Transylvanian areasconstitutes a shift towards it.” The third military survey was carried out in Transylvania between 1869 and 1873. Theperiod between 1940-1944 brings the update of the third military survey maps (In: Vajda, Sz., 2003, A HadtörténetiTérképtár katonai topográfiai térképeinek bemutatása, Budapest, Tájépítészet, 4th year, No. 2., 30-33). 

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Forest and the main road, which might as well be a look-out. According to the map, Reghin-Deda railway was already finished on the left bank of Mureş river (presumably the less swampy

bank). The railway station is situated S-E from the Mureş bridge.The third military (updated) survey from the 1940s already shows Mureş river meandering in asomewhat regular bed with a few smaller branches below Brâncoveneşti. Thus the settlementgot further from the huge river. Nothing new can be seen of the castle garden on the 1:50000-scale map. Salt Spa is marked on both sides of Mureş river between Ideciu de Jos and Ideciu deSus, south from Brâncoveneşti, where Kálmán Kemény’s family used to take the Wass childrenof Ţaga branch. (Fig.5) Based on castle descriptions of various ages we can somewhat picture the garden as well. Thebuilding and its surroundings create a particular impression. The castle with fir trees on top,orchards in the middle, and its bottom ‘bolstered’ by alder trees of Mureş offers an impressiveview to the approaching people, especially from the valley or by train.31  It is a landscapecomponent with character throughout the centuries up to now.

The overall impression of the monument was highly influenced by its relevating vegetation: thepine-grove emphasizes the bleak mass of the castle, whereas the orchards gently offset it. JózsefBiró also mentions the pine-grove in 1943. Not only the sight of the castle is impressive, butalso the panorama from the castle is remarkable. The initial strategic look-out turned to anaesthetic experience over times. The “roofed look-out place, monarch János Kemény’s barb

dryer”, mentioned by László Kővári, is the oldest recorded (landscape) garden building.32  Itsposition was not randomly chosen. The most beautiful view of Mureş valley is from the mainfacade of the castle. We know about the existence of this look-out at the back of the parkstarting from 1860s and even at the end of the 19th century: “Taking a walk along the beautiful

 park of Brâncovene şti we arrive at a peak from which we can see the villages in the narrowing

valley.” 33 Szentiváni describes the castle garden as a source of special memories: two family tombs, one

of which older than a century, and the Roman road “named after Trajan”34, which is alsomentioned by Kővári: “We can see the rampart of the Roman fortress with a 210 steps long side

with still distinguishable tower feet at both ends. A Roman road led to this fortress which can be

see even today.”35 

The tombs mentioned by Szentiváni may have been parts of a sentimental garden as the thirdmilitary survey from the end of the 19th century illustrates the ornamental garden authentically.Vilmos Hankó characterizes the park in 1896 as a result of aristocratic generosity, “upon which

century-old trees cast a dark shadow.”36 We also know the garden of Kálmán Kemény from

Ilona Siemers’ memories from the turn of the 19-20 century. According to Siemers, the “real

 English park” started from the flower garden behind the castle’s northern wing, which was “a

grassy broad area variegated with century-old oak trees”. These oaks dominate the castlegarden today; their dendrological and landscape value is immeasurable.There were more winding paths in the garden, one of them leading to Mureş  hillside withbenches here and there. After comparing Ilona Siemers’ memoirs with the third military survey,a good question is whether the park extended or not across the surrounded area. However, thereis neither path typical of landscape gardens nor buildings to be accepted as look-outs. Still,look-outs may not be taken as buildings at all costs, it could have been a simple look-out spoteither: “...After a 30 minutes walk we got to a charming look-out. God, I have sat so many times

there, reading and enjoying the silently teeming power of nature. I have often forgotten of both

31 Kelemen, L. , 1982, as cited above, 187.32 Kővári, L.., 1866, as cited above, 204-205.33 In: ***, 1901, Az Osztrák-Magyar Monarchia írásban és képben. Budapest, vol. VII. 300.34 Szentiváni, M., 1986, as cited above, 78.35 Kővári, L., 1866, Erdély építészeti emlékei . Kolozsvár, 27. 36 Hankó, V., 1896, Székelyföld . Budapest, 335.

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time and meals. The last frontier of the garden was there.”37

  The only building between the

 Rose and Szálas forests was the “cottage in the alps with the farm” on the pasture, which was

also valuable as a landscape motive. In the memoirs of István Mikó “the garden ended in the forest blending into it almost abruptly...”

 38 The tennis court also belongs to the vicinity of the castle known from Ilona Siemers’description. This was useless due to the lasting shadows of the fir trees, and because of the race-horse stables with racecourse for practicing, respectively. In those days the two stone guardinglions were still at the gate and the courtyard was cobbled with mossy stones.39 “The serpentine path leading to the castle changed to a flower-edged promenade during thegreat settlement at the beginning of the 20th century, and rose trees blossom alongside in theformer moat.40 A position was advertised for a gardener in the “ A Kert ” (’garden’) journal in 1899 to maintainthe extensive Brâncoveneşti garden: “Gardener wanted from 1st September this year, who is

expert in all branches of gardening, such as planting flowers and indoor plants, improving

roses, kitchen gardening and planting fruit-trees, creating flower beds and he shall be a practical person knowing floral design and understanding Hungarian...”41 Brâncoveneşti castle garden was a prominent venue of Erdélyi Helikon, many minutes mentionthe park as number one place of discussion even before the rooms of the castle:42 “The meeting,

if weather permitted, started and finished under the old trees of the big park throughout the

three days. There was an enormous table of millstone on the clearing between the tall oak trees

with benches around where the discussions took place...After dinner we went for a walk almost

each time in this big park whose sandy path was shining. Returning from there, we would sit on

the benches in front of the castle, on the so-called look-out. A glittering panorama set before

our eyes of the land across Mure ş.”43 The Aladár Kuncz memorial table, designed by Károly

Kós, was placed here later.

The castle’s present stateThe castle above the settlement dominates the area from the distance even today. The

Kemény family was returned the castle, according to the latest news 44, which can be a ray ofhope that Brâncoveneşti may become a centre of Transylvanian intellectual life again.There are two ways to get to the rock projection serving as the “foundation” of the castle: acobbled straight road past the reformed church and a serpentine. Some houses were built on thelower part of the serpentine that disturb the view.The former coach house is situated right from the castle’s entrance, whose facade still revealssome of its original style. The moat around the castle cannot be seen in full, it remained only onthe northern and western side. Similarly to the Gorneşti moat, it is one of the few medievalgarden relics. 

There are three memorial plaques in Hungarian, Romanian and German to the memory of manof lettres János Kemény and the Erdélyi Helikon. (Fig. 6) 

37 In: Siemers, Ilona, 1999, as cited above, 95. 38 Mikó, I., 1996, Vár állott, most k őhalom . Kolozsvár, 43. 39 Siemers, Ilona (1999): as cited above, 86-88., 95-98.40 http://www.kemenyinfo.hu. 41 *** A Kert , 1899, Budapest. 42 “The minute of the third Helikon meeting, Brâncovene şti, 5-7 July 1928. Recorded on 5th, 6th and 7th July 1928,on the occasion of the third Erdélyi Helikon meeting of Transylvanian Hungarian writers’ friendly working-group,whose series of sessions were held in the park and rooms of Brâncovene şti castle thanks to baron János Kemény

who made sacrifices and kindly invited us.”  (In: Nemeskürty, I., 1988, Édes Erdély . Debrecen, 156.) 43 Tamási, Á, Vadrózsa ága. In:http://www.mek.iif.hu/porta/szint/human/szepirod/magyar/tamasi_a/vadrozsa/vadrozsa.htm 44 http://www.mediatica.ro 

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There are more outbuildings west from the castle, which do not go well at all with the castle. Asmaller playground and promenade was formed north from the castle, probably on the spot of

the previous tennis-court.In the vicinity of the castle there are almost exclusively Norway spruces ( Picea abies) leftinside the fence. There are other ornamental plants too, but none of them can originate from thestock of the former garden. There are other spontaneously planted leafy plants contributing tothe flora along the serpentine near the fir trees.János Kemény, his wife and his daughter Klió were buried in the back garden under the leafyboughs of centuries-old oak trees, and Albert Wass’ (1908-1998) memorial was also erectedhere near the Aladár Kuncz memorial table.From the relatively healthy oak grove, which might have been planted by György Rákóczi II.,one could have a wonderful view upon the broad valley up to the alps in case the thicket isremoved on certain parts of the terrace. It could be an ideal look-out spot towards north.An enormous orchard lies west from the castle. Drainage ditches run along the avenues to divert

storm-water. The former orchard belonging to the estate must have been situated here. On theeastern side of the orchard we have presumably found the remaining of the old earthen castle,which may have been built on the foundations of the Roman castrum.The plant stock of the former castle garden is illustrated by the attached geodesic survey and thelist of plants. (Fig. 7)

List of plants:Number  English name  Latin name 

1. Pin Oak Quercus palustris 2. Common

(English/Pedunculate) OakQuerqus robur  

3. European Weeping Birch  Betula pendula 4. European Black Pine Pinus nigra 5. Norway Spruce Picea abies 6. Common walnut  Juglans regia 7. Small-leaved Lime Tilia cordata 8. Plane tree Platanus hybrida 

Baron György Kemény’s sepulchre lies on the western side of the earthen castle. There aresmaller ditches on the remaining corner arches of the square earthen castle, which may trace theplace of the former bastions. A smaller hill can be seen towards the centre of the earthen castle,revealing the remaining of a stone wall in the middle.

There is a fine prospect over the Mureş valley towards south from the top of the earthen castle.Béla Fráter inherited his three-storeyed castle with park in Vălenii de Mureş  from countsRhédey of his mother’s branch. It was only 500 metres north from Brâncoveneşti castle. “The

estate with its garden reaching the forest did not survive the war. The remaining of the last

brick were brought to Budapest by my friend, commendatory Dr. József Hajós.”  45  In all

probability, this building may be identified as the project named “Villa Redai” on the thirdmilitary survey map.

45 Mikó, I., 1996, as cited above, 44. 

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Figure

Fig.1 Brâncoveneşti Castle

Fig.2 the medieval Transylvanian castle style

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Fig.3 the map of the first military surveying

Fig. 4 the second military survey map

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Fig. 5 the third military survey map

Fig. 6 the memorial plaques to the memory of János Kemény

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Fig. 7 geodesic survey