Kosode & Hakama Pattern

7/27/2019 Kosode & Hakama Pattern

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Kosode

The first is the kosode (which can be easily extrapolated into kimono by extending it

from knee length to floor length). The basic fabric layout is as follows:


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Cut out fabric along all solid lines exceptfor the neck - that's placed there so you can seewhere the neck cut-out template will go; the dotted lines in the sleeves are to show where

folds will occur later. Make sure to finish all edges (serge, zig-zag, whatever).

The neck hole is a very specific and odd cut, with the only non-straight lines in the whole

pattern; I strongly recommend making a template (out of paper or thin cardboard), since

you may need it more than once, and it'll make the cutting significantly easier.

This is very important! The dotted line is the measuring line, based on the calculations

you'll make from your neck size; the solid line is the part you'll actually be cutting into

your fabric, set in from the measuring line by the amount of seam allowance you're

using!

The first thing to do will be to attach the two back pieces lengthwise, getting onepiece that is ~28" wide by 'A' tall; at this point place your neck template along the

edge, as shown, and cut out the neck hole; I'd suggest finishing this edge also

before continuing.

Attach the two front pieces to the two back pieces, basically as shown, sewing infrom the shoulder point to where the neck hole begins. Then attach each of theoverlap pieces to their corresponding front pieces.

Now, make the sleeves - sew each of them into a tube, which will be 22.5" longby 30" around; depending on your arm measurement (shoulder to wrist), this may

be too long, but can be easily corrected by either shortening the sleeves (at the

non-selvage end) or by giving it a larger seam allowance when attaching it to thebody of the garment.

Attach the sleeves to the body, such that the fold line (halfway around the tubefrom the seam line) is attached to shoulder seam; depending on circumstance or

preference, you can either completely attach the sleeve to the body, attach only

the top half to the body leaving the bottom half open (for better ventilation on

both arm and body), or attach only the top half of the sleeve to the body and sewthe bottom half of the sleeve to itself, thus closing it."

Sew closed each side of the body from the bottom attachment point of the sleeveto the bottom hem.

Put the garment on, making sure the shoulder seams are square across yourshoulders. Take the front pieces (left and right) and fold triangles from them, from

where they meet the neck hole to the far edge of the former 'overlap' pieces - use


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the mid-point of the chest as the lower point of the triangle - then cut these piecesout.

Now it's time to make the neckband: take the three pieces you have, and make onevery long piece from them (~3 x 'B' long by 5" wide), then turn it into a tube (~3 x

'B' long by ~2" wide), turn it inside out (so the seams are all on the inside), and

close off the ends.I would strongly suggest pinning the neckband together, especially when

preparing to turn it into a tube (this will drastically reduce the chances of twisting

along the seam line); not that many pins area really needed (I use just one at eachend, one at each crosswise seam line, and three or so in each 'section').

I would also suggest that once you've turned it rightside-out, that you iron down

along the long seam line - this will make attaching it to the body much easier.

Now, find the midpoint of your neckband, line it up with the middle seam on theback of the body, and starting from that point, sew the neckband to the body,

down to the hem, on both sides; if, once attached, the neckband is too long, trim it

off to the hem line.

Now just finish off your hems as needed (a simple blind hem at the bottom shoulddo).


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Hakama

There are two distinct methodologies for making hakama - this first is my preference,though later I may include my 'quick and dirty' method as well.

After cutting out all pieces, and finishing their edges, sew all of the pairs of panels

together (i.e. "left front 1" and "left front 2", &c), giving you four equal-sized leg

panels, ~28" x 'B'. Then, sew the two front pieces together for 12" down from the

top only; do the same with the back.

At the 'outer' edge of each new piece ('front' and 'back') fold in a triangle, ~5"along the top, and 9" along the side; sew down this triangle on what will become

the inside.


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Documents

Kosode & Hakama Pattern