in a hill sojourn. Founded in 1845 by Yankee missionariesdrawn
from a generation that produced Thoreau andEmerson, Kodaikanal was
not your typical imperialist sum-mer retreat. Alas, the days in
which it was a well-kept secretare now long gone. Despite this,
Kodi still offers somethingunusual not highlighted in tourist
brochures. The lakes, vis-tas and viewpoints are well known. Less
recognised are theunique shola forests, and their endemic plants
and bird life.
Shola forests are montane evergreen forests unique to
thehigh-altitude regions (above 1,800m) of the Western
Ghats.Stunted by fierce winds, sholas contain a wealth of
plant,animal and bird species. Together with native grasslands,this
ecosystem plays a key role in absorbing monsoonrains. Sholas are
most often found in the protected folds ofhills. They are the most
enduring image of Kodaikanal, andalso the most fragile element of
this magical place.
OutlookTraveller APRIL 2005 103
HigherGround
The forest trails of Kodaikanal.Text and photographs by
Ian Lockwood
View of southern plains from Coaker’s WalkLooking east over the
Palani hills on a clear morning.Eucalyptus trees fill the lower
valleys. The full extent ofthe plains lying almost 2,000m below is
clearly visible.Days like this are becoming rare as pollution
fromindustrial centres and agricultural fires clog the air.
The south Indian hill station ofKodaikanal has long attracted a
variety of visi-
tors looking for something out of the ordinary
P H O T O E S S A Y KODAIKANAL
OutlookTraveller APRIL 2005 109OutlookTraveller APRIL
2005108
If you are at all with it, you won’tdream of a weekend break
inKodaikanal or Ooty—blah, beenthere, strictly for Gujjus
withtimeshares or honeymooningprovincials from Namakkal. Butthe
secret of travelling, I havefound, is not just in the place,but
also as much in you andwhat you choose to do there.The most
absurdly clichédplaces have the ability to springsurprises. Like
Kodi.
First, try and ignore the colour-coordinated newly-weds.They’re
just part of the sceneryand usually harmless. Next, findout where
all the big buses andSumos are heading, and headthe other way. The
alternativehas plenty to offer.
GETTING THEREIf you’re trying to get to Kodifrom Chennai, you
can take the
Nagercoil Express (runsThursdays and Sundays; leavesEgmore
station at 8.30pm andarrives at Kodi Road at 5.50am;2A costs Rs
840) or thePandian Express (runs everyday; leaves Egmore at
9.30pmand reaches Kodi Road at5.30am; 2A costs Rs 870.)Taxis from
Kodi Road toKodaikanal (80km; 2hrs30min)cost between Rs 500
(shared)and Rs 800 while the bus costsRs 25 and takes 3hrs30min.The
direct bus from Chennai(12hrs) costs Rs 300-500.
GETTING AROUNDKodi has the advantage ofsmallness—most hotels
arearound the heart of the city(Seven Roads) and most placeswithin
walking distance, or atbest a brisk hike away. Youcould hire a
bicycle (approx. Rs 50 per day). Taxis are aplen-ty but
expensive—they charge aminimum of Rs 50 for 3km. Ifyou want to
quickly check outthe mandatory views, waterfallsand suicide points,
hire a smallcar for about Rs 800 a day.There are tourist buses as
well,for about Rs 25 a head: if youcan cope with the
day-trippers,why not.
WHERE TO STAYRegular: Kodi has plenty ofhotels, so take your
pick (allrates for double rooms). Hotel
RR Residency (Rs 900-1,500;04542-244300/31) has no viewsbut is
right on Seven Roads, thecity centre. It’s comfortable
andpleasantly appointed. HotelGarden Manor (Rs
900-1,300;240461/242176) has terracegardens and views. HotelCarlton
(Rs 3,000-4,000;240056/71) is perched right onthe lake with
fabulous views.Luxurious rooms, very good service and food.
Different: Elephant Valley(Rs 2,500-5,000; 230399; www.
elephantvalley.com), a 100-acreeco-resort and organic farmabout
15km outside Kodaikanal,is on an ancient elephant migra-tion route.
You can sight elephants and other wildlife.Cinnabar (Rs
2,250-2,750;240220, www.geocities.com/cinnabarfarm) is a homestay
runby a charming couple. Lovelyrooms and garden; everything
ishome-produced—from thebread and jam at breakfast tothe cheese and
coffee. BisonWells (Rs 1,200 approx.;
240566) is a rugged log cabin ina forest, very far from
themadding crowd, with no moderntrappings like TV or music.Plenty
of wildlife and birds. Agreat escape.
WHERE TO EATThe place is littered with Tibetaneateries and the
usual indetermi-nate restaurants servingTandoori or Chinese. Try
Swad,a basement place on PT Roadthat looks like nothing but
hashomey North Indian food at rea-sonable rates. But Daily
Breadnear the bus stop is an absolutemust: try their bread,
cinnamonrolls and brownies. And the freshfruit ice cream (plum,
bananaand peach) is simply superb.Prices are ridiculouslylow—bread
Rs 10 a loaf and icecreams Rs 6 a scoop. Fruit inKodi is a meal in
itself—pig outon plums, peaches and avoca-
dos in season. Practically everyshop sells eucalyptus oil as
wellas homemade chocolates, sosplurge. Do visit Eco Nut on PTRoad
for health foods like organ-ic muesli, cheeses, grains andflour,
plus great jams and juices.
WHAT TO SEE & DOThe usual suspects (all distancesfrom Seven
Roads):◗ Coaker’s Walk (1km): Built in1872 by Lt. Coaker, it’s a
wind-ing walk around Mt Nebo, withgreat views.◗ Berijam Lake
(20km): Greatfor picnics/camps, with wildlifesightings. You need a
permit, soprepare in advance.◗ Silver Cascade Waterfall(7km): A
80ft-high waterfall.◗ Suicide Point (10km): A spec-tacular view of
Periyakulam townfrom 7,000ft up.◗ Astrophysical Observatory
(3km): Built in 1898, it has an array of spectroscopic
instruments.◗ Shembaganur Museum(5km): Displays flowers,
butter-flies, birds, etc and 300 orchids.◗ Kurinji Andavar
Temple(3km): A small Murugan shrine,supposedly centuries old
andwith great views.And the not-so-usual: ◗ St John’s Convent,
knownlocally as the Belgian Convent.At Munjikal (3km;
04542-240726). An old-fashioned con-vent, where you can buy
exquis-ite hand-embroidered linen andlace. You’ll pay a fortune
butwon’t find such stuff easily. Afine cut-work tablecloth
costsabout Rs 3,000, a hankie Rs 50,and if you want real
Venetianlace, be prepared to payupwards of Rs 50,000 for
onetablecloth. ◗ Jaysh Quilts (5.5km; 240921)is where you can learn
quilt-making from charmingJayashree. Just watch or buysome very
lovely handmadequilts. There’s a story in everypiece, and she’ll
create a specialone around whatever theme you choose, including
your lifestory! Rs 1,500 (baby size) to Rs 12,000 (full size).◗
Potter’s Shed Trust (243968)has a retail outlet on PT Road,where
you can pick upPondicherry-style glazedstoneware. Or you can
spendsome time at the wheel at theirworkshop (10km). About Rs
200per person, and, for a little extra,they fire and ship your
master-piece across to you.
◗ Bodhi Zendo (www.bodhizendo.org) is strictly for people
whohave already tried Vipassana orYogic meditation and want to
tryZen. Set in a coffee estate about12km from Kodi near
PerumalMalai, it is run by India’s only Zenmaster, who is,
strangely enough,a Catholic priest. ◗ Sheep in a Jeep, off
SevenRoads, has some nice appliquécushions and bags. They make
great gifts, especially for kids.◗ Pillavali Coffee
Estate.(62km). For a tour through a cof-fee estate, call the
Nagarajans at224271 to book in advance. ◗ The Lake. Just carry a
picnicbasket and a book to one of thebenches around KodaikanalLake:
you could happily spendthe whole day there. I did.
VAISHNA ROY
The Kodai Club
Pillar Rocks makes for a good excursion
Horse rides are an option
The Biscuit-Tin church
T H E I N F O R M AT I O N
A view of the Kodi Lake
PRASHANT PANJIAR
PRASHANT PANJIAR
PRASHANT PANJIAR
K O D A I K A N A L
JAI
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