Knitted Fabric Manufcaturing

7/30/2019 Knitted Fabric Manufcaturing

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Knitted Fabric

Manufacturing


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Side Interlock Rib knit Jersey

Face

Back


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Lecture 01

Course Introduction

Course Outline

To give an understanding to participants about

knitting technology and its management. This course will cover history of knitting and most

modern development in knitting technology.

Participants will be made familiar with the knitting

manufacturing systems and its managements.
http://e/My%20Documents/Downloads/Knitted%20Fabric%20Manufcaturing%20Fall%202006%20Helping%20Material/Outline%20Knitted%20Fbaric%20Manufcaturing%20Fall%202006%20TX-310.dochttp://e/My%20Documents/Downloads/Knitted%20Fabric%20Manufcaturing%20Fall%202006%20Helping%20Material/Outline%20Knitted%20Fbaric%20Manufcaturing%20Fall%202006%20TX-310.doc


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Expected Outcome

Participants will be able to understand one of

the most important fabric formation process

and this would also help understanding

forthcoming courses of textile e.g. wetprocessing and garment manufacturing etc.


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Course Material

Books: Knitting Technology David J Spencer

Notes prepared by Mushtaq Mangat

Class notes

Hand-outs

Survey of the industry

Interviews of industry leaders

Net Surfing


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Attendance Policy

Five classes missing means Grade F

Five minutes late means no entrance in class

Have to justify five minutes late

We will start class at exact time INSHALLAH

Missing of one class means losing one mark


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Grade Policy

Assignments: 12.5%

Quizzes: 12.5%

Midterms: 20%

Project 15%

Attendance: 10%

Final: 35%


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Lecture 02

Knitting History


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Fabric Formation Process

Conversion of fibers into a sheet, which should havefollowing properties:

Strength to bear stretch and stress

A determined surface area

Dimensional stability

Elasticity

Holding capacity to liquid or solid

Able to be used for any particular purpose


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Fabric Formation Techniques

Weaving Woven fabric

Knotting Nets

Knitting Hosiery fabric

Bonding Namda (a sheet used by

nomads)

Tufting Carpet manufacturing


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Lecture 02

Knitting History

From Hand Knitting to Computerized

Knitting Machines
http://www.knittingtogether.org.uk/attachment.asp?doc=7346&type=I&title=Loops


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Knitting Start

The art of hand knitting has been practiced since thousands ofyears.

How this art was learnt by ancient human is still a mystery andso is the country and time of its origin.

However, some believe that this art originated in Persia. Others

claim Israel, Jordan and Syria belt as its origin, and still othersclaim mountains of North Africa.

Knitted socks discovered in Egyptian tombs have been datedbetween the 3rd and 6th centuries BC.


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Ancient Times and Knitting

Job of ladies

Pastime hobby

For safety and decoration

Popular where temperature was generally low

For specific parts of body, like, hands, feet,

head, face not for main body


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Starting of New Knitting Era

In the medieval Europe hand knitting was an

important industry and had developed into an

advanced craft by 16th century


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Hand Knitting in England

Hand knitting in England expanded as an industry in Tudortimes (1485-1603). Knitted caps and stockings were highlyfashionable. From the time of Henry VIII, fine knitted silkstockings imported from Spain were part of court fashion.

Previously, a piece of cloth was cut to the shape of a leg and theedges sewn together to create a stocking. By the time ofElizabeth I, knowledge of how to hand knit stockings had spreadaround England and documents refer to the industry in placesas far apart as London, Kingston (Surrey), and Richmond(Yorkshire


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William Lee and Knitting

In 1589, William Lee, a clergyman invented the firstknitting machine in England.

After this invention, in the 17th and 18th centuries the

art of knitting was gradually taken over by guildorganized cottage industry.

Interestingly, the basic technology of the modern dayknitting machines is similar to Lee's machine.

Even the full-fashioned machine invented in 1864 byWilliam Cotton of Leicestershire, England used thesame bearded-spring needle, which was part of theoriginal model of Lee.


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http://www.knittingtogether.org.uk/doc.asp?doc=7347&cat=737


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The foundation of the knitting

industry

Investing in frames

During the early seventeenth century, knitting frames remainedan expensive investment and few were built. Even in the 1660s,frames could cost as much as 20 to 30 each, more than a

worker's yearly wage. The hand knitters did not have to paysuch high costs and could knit as long as they had a pair ofknitting needles. Demand for the output of hand knitters andframework knitters allowed both branches to expand during thetwo centuries after Lee's invention.


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Changing products

New technology

In the second half of the eighteenth century there were anumber of advances in the development and use of knitting-frame technology. These followed on from Jedediah Strutt's

patent for his Derby Rib machine in 1758, which created a moreelastic fabric. Hose made using this type of fabric soon becamemore popular than hand-knitted stockings. With money to bemade from successful inventions, many individuals investedtime and money in experimenting with new adaptations andpatterns


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Transition to factory production

Working at home

Framework knitting was traditionally carried out in

workers' homes. Hosiers supplied yarn to the

workers, children commonly wound the yarn onto

bobbins, men knitted it into stockings and women

seamed and embroidered the stockings. The

industry could keep the whole family occupied


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http://www.knittingtogether.org.uk/attachment.asp?doc=7364&type=I&title=Ruddington+Frameshophttp://www.knittingtogether.org.uk/doc.asp?doc=13678&cat=740http://www.knittingtogether.org.uk/doc.asp?doc=13676&cat=740http://www.knittingtogether.org.uk/doc.asp?doc=13675&cat=740http://www.knittingtogether.org.uk/doc.asp?doc=13674&cat=740


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Knitting and 19th Century

In the 19th century power was applied to the knitting

machines and simultaneously circular-knitting

machines appeared on the scene.

Women's stocking when knitted on original machines

were a straight knitted tube, because stitches could

not be added or dropped on circular knitting machine.

So these products were known as hosiery.


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The word hosiery is derived from the old English

hose, which means a covering for the leg. Now

seamless stockings are knitted even on circularmachines, developed in the mid-19th century.

To start with cotton, wool, silk and later rayon yarns

were used for making hosiery, but with theemergence of nylon in the 1940s women preferred

nylon hose, because they could be permanently

formed into the desired shape by heating. The use of

nylon also improved the fit of hosiery due to stretchability of nylon fabrics


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Subsequently, in Great Britain, hosiery came to be

associated with all types of machine-knit garments,

now called knitwear. In United States they still callstockings, socks, panty hose, and tights as hosiery

products.


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Between 1880 to 1910 knitwear was mainly a female

fashion, later knitted pullovers, cardigans, skirts,

men's underwear, sportswear and swimwear becamepopular.

Developments in the 20th century increased the

production speeds of the machines and offered wider

choice to pattern the knitted fabrics.

Now computer controlled knitting machines have

come on the scene, which are highly versatile.

Knitted garments have now become every day dress.


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Knitting in 20th century


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http://www.knittingtogether.org.uk/attachment.asp?doc=7371&type=I&title=Paget+Machine+at+Troyes


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Workshop of the world

A resourceful Britain

Between 1840 and 1860 Britain experienced a period of rapidgrowth that saw many changes in the workplace and insociety. The rail network in Britain expanded to around 10,000miles of track, cutting travel times between many cities and

towns. For the first time in history, goods could be transportedacross the country within a matter of hours. Opportunities forbusiness opened up and the economy boomed. Theconstruction of the railways alone employed 200,000 people andat its peak used 40% of the country's expanding output of iron


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Seamless improvements

The circular knitted stocking was technologically improved bythe use of nylon. The thermoplastic properties of nylon meantthat when placed on a shaped board and heated the yarnsoftens, and permanently takes on the shape of the board when

the heat is removed. Unlike steamed natural fibres, heatednylon stockings did not lose their shape whenwashed. Technology had reached the point where the quality ofseamless stockings could rival fully-fashioned stockings


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In Current Era

We have:

Circular knitting machines of high speed (plus

50 RPM) gauge more than 40, dia plus 50

inches. Feeders more than 200, fully garmentknitting machines, stripers, terry and many

thing more


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Latest Developments in Knitting

The art of knitting has come of age. From hand knitting to handoperated machines was a long way. Gradually it upgraded topower operated V-Bed and circular knitting, and then itleapfrogged to microprocessor controlled machines. Now lately

CAD/CAM has revolutionised the knitting industry. However, inthe developing countries including China, they still use manuallyoperated flat and V-bed knitting machines for thier bulkproduction since cheap labour is available.


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Whole garment knitting
http://e/My%20Documents/Downloads/Knitted%20Fabric%20Manufcaturing%20Fall%202006%20Helping%20Material/WHOLEGARMENT%20Knitwear1.htmhttp://e/My%20Documents/Downloads/Knitted%20Fabric%20Manufcaturing%20Fall%202006%20Helping%20Material/WHOLEGARMENT%20Knitwear1.htm


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Lecture # 3

Significance of Knitting


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Significance of Knitted Fabric

Knitting Clothes---a modern way of living


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Knitted Fabric Characteristics

Flexibility Elasticity

Adaptability

Air permeability

Crease resistance

Hand feel

Bulky Easy to wear

Less size problems

Price at the last


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Change in life style

More traveling

More casual life style

Shortage of time

Busy life

More work

Fashion

More colors and embellishments


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http://images.google.com.hk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.siltex.com/images/perfect_collar/splitstripe_big.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.siltex.com/products/trim/perfect_collar/&h=300&w=450&sz=40&tbnid=WUtizYVfeFwJ:&tbnh=82&tbnw=124&hl=en&start=45&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dknitted%2Bfabrics%2B%26start%3D40%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN


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Knitted Garments in new era

Most popular dress

Comfort and convenient

Cheap and highly fashioned

Fit for body

Easy to produce

Easy to make changes in designs


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Lecture # 4

Knitted and woven fabric

evaluation


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Woven and Knitted Fabric

Comparison

Each one is better than other


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http://images.google.com.hk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.halimal.com/WWW/weaving/Jorvik_BLT_draft.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.halimal.com/WWW/weaving/Jorvik_BLT.php&h=470&w=500&sz=113&tbnid=AE6dQDUS2VEJ:&tbnh=119&tbnw=127&hl=en&start=6&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dwoven%2Bfabric%2B%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN


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A h W d K itt d
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Areas where Woven and Knitted

Fabric differ

Method of production

Fabric properties

Machine requirements

Usages of fabric

Price

Style and fashion


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Lecture # 5

woven and knitted fabric


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Woven and Knitted

Fabric

Production Method


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Woven

Insertion of weft through warp

Warping

Sizing

Beaming

Bobbin winding

Loom machine working


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Knitted

Direct supply of yarn to knitting needles No warp in weft knitting and no weft in warp knitting

No application of size

No beaming in case of weft knitting

Beaming process in case of warp knitting

Very quick start of production


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Properties

Woven Knitted

Stable Unstable

Rigid Flexible

Harsh feel Soft feel

Less shrinkage Highly shrinkage

Less adaptability Highly adaptability


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Long procedure of

production

Very quick

production

Need machine Can be done with

needles manually

Need sizing No need of sizing

Costly process Cheap productionprocess

Difficult to make

designs

Easy to make

designs