KNIT CAD AND STRUCTURES

Of all knitting technologies, the modern electronic V -bed flat machine, with its extensive patterning and shaping capabilities, is unique in the. range of structures and shapes which can be developed. This versatility has led to the development of complex cad/ cam programs which allow the programmer complete control of the knitted product. All knitting machine cad programs work on a graphical interface which allows the designer to input the knitted sample stitch for stitch. Each stitch will be represented by either an icon or colour number which carries out a specific function. It is important to remember that in V -bed flat knitting the basic building blocks of each knitted structure consists Knit, Tuck, Miss and Transfer, however it is the combination of these build blocks which leads to numerous permutations of structure.

Shima Seiki SDS ONE/ APEX

Shima Seiki is one ofthe largest V- bed machine manufacturers in the world, they produce complete design, patterning and programming systems called the SDS One and SDS ONE- APEX, the APEX is their top of the line programming system with added functionality. The cad software offers a range of functions from design artwork preparation, to pattern drafting and cutting, to knit machine programming. It is in the KnitPaint program that all knit structures are developed for the knitting machine .

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Main menu screen for KnitPaint

Basic Operation

The SDS ONE uses a pen and graphics tablet, the pen is moved along the tablet to a position relative to a point on the screen, it is important to remember that the pen is not a mouse and each point on the tablet relates to a specific point on the screen. Along the base ofthe KnitPaint screen an array of colour numbers is positioned horizontally, with each colour number carrying out a specific action (see fig)

Basic Colour Operation list

KNIT

COLOUR NUMBER 1 • = FRONT BED KNIT [LINKS LINKS) •

COLOUR NUMBER 2 = BACK BED KNIT [LINKS LINKS)

COLOUR NUMBER 3 = FRONT & BACK BED KNIT

COLOUR NUMBER 51 = FRONT KNIT [NO TRANSFER)

COLOUR NUMBER 62 = BACK KNIT [NO TRANSFER)

TUCK

COLOUR NUMBER 11 11 =FRONT TUCK

COLOUR NUMBER 12 . = BACK TUCK

MISS

COLOUR NUMBER 0 • = NO NEEDLE SELECTION

COLOUR NUMBER 16 = NO NEEDLE SELECTION

TRANSFER

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COLOUR NUMBER 6 = FRONT KNIT+ TRANSFER 1 POSITION LEFT

COLOUR NUMBER 7 D = FRONT KNIT + TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

COLOUR NUMBER 9 • = BACK KNIT+ TRANSFER 1 POSITION LEFT

COLOUR NUMBER g • = BACK KNIT+ TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

COLOUR NUMBER 20 . =FRONT KNIT+ TRANSFER TO BACK OPPOSITE NEEDL

COLOUR NUMBER 30 . =BACK KNIT+ TRANSFER TO FRONT OPPOSITE NEEDLI

HOW TO CREAT A NEW SAMPLE

1 GO TO NEW IN THE TOP LEFT HAND CORNER AND DOUBLE CLICK 2

"- - ::J C I INPUT FILE NAME :.:. ~= ~~- 2 STORE TO YOUR FOLDER "•jl~~l

... 11 3 CHOOSE MACHINE TYPE AND GAUGE

- fMT""3 ~ .tlt..~--+1'-~ --' "" [i50::l ~ -.. 4 INPUT SAMPLE SIZE

• ...,.,. ___ 5 CHOOSE KNI TTING TYPE EG STRUCTURE

---~Ejj~~--- 6 PRESS EXECUTE

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~..,_, ~ ... ..,. 1"3 _ , f"':3~ ollli"'E-----+--- INPUT COURSES X WALES IF YOU HAVE THE STITCH DENSITY

IF NOT SELECT DEFAULT ..... PAIIFcl.dod rec.. .......

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SELECT OK

4 USING THE COLORS ARRANGED ALONG THE BOTTOM OF THE SCREEN PROGRAMME YOUR STRUCTURE EACH COLOR NUMBER CARRIES OUT A SPECFIC FUNCTI ON

EXAMPLE

KNIT TUCK MISS

COLOUR I =FRONT BED KNIT COLOUR 11 =FRONT TUCK COLOUR 16 =NO SELECTION COLOUR 2 = BACK BED KNIT COLOUR 12 = BACK TUCK COLOUR 3 =FRONT AND BACK KNIT

HOW TO MAKE AN AREA AND COPY I SELECT THE AREA ICON

2 INPUT THE BOTTOM CORNER OF THE AREA WITH ONE PEN CLICK FOLLOWED BY THE TOP CORNER OF THE AREA WITH ANOTHER PEN CLICK

3 WHEN THE AREA IS CORRECT PRESS OK ON THE AREAD DIALOG

HOW TO COPY AN AREA 1 MAKE AN AREA 2 SELECT THE COPY I CON 3 ON THE COPY DIALOG SELECT COPY MI RROR

OR CHEVRON

TO COPY POINT SET

I SELECT COPY ON THE MODE SECTION OF THE COPY DIALOG

2 SELECT POINT SET ON THE TYPE SECTION OF THE COPY DIALOG

3 PRESS EXECUTE

4 WITH YOUR PEN POSITION YOUR COPIED AREA TO DESIRED LOCATION

L''

LINE DRAW ) /.t:._ _~ ::~j C UNE TYPE

FIGURE DRAW~ !ttJ !!!(] C ENLARGE REDUCE

SHADOW ) ' i,. _#' C BIAS COPY

COLOUR CHANGE~~ .a,_ C FLOOD FILL

INSERT DELETE ._. .Jj-~ ~ ~BASE PATTERN REPEAT

AREA MOVE ) r ".J _:: ,. .J +-- COPY MIRROR CHEVRON

AREA ) . . t;t C ERASE DISPLAY

HOW TO LINE COPY A SMALL AREA INTO A LARGER AREA TO COPY LINE

I MAKE AN AREA OF THE PATTERN YOU WISH TO REPEAT 2 SELECT COPY ON THE MODE SECTION OF THE COPY DIALOG 3 SELECT UNE ON THE TYPE SECTION OFTHE COPY DIALOG 4 PRESS EXECUTE 5 SELECT COPY AREA ON THE LI NE COPY DIALOG 6MAKE A LARGER AREA YOU WISH TO COPY YOUR SMALLER AREA PATTERN INTO 7 PRESS EXECUTE

WHEN YOUR PATTERN HAS BEEN DESIGNED SELECTS PAINT...._ A SERIES OF QUESTION WILL THEN BE ASKED

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SELECT OK

SELECT EXECUTE

ONCE YOU PRESS EXECUTE A SET OF LINES ARE DRAWN EITHER SIDE OF YOUR PATTERN THESE ARE REFERRED TO AS OPTION LINES, WITH A SET OF RIGHT OPTION LINES AND A SET OF LEFT OPTION LINES. EACH LINE CARRIES OUT A SPECFIC FUNCTION, ALL CARRIER INFORMATION, STITCH INFORMATION AND TAKEDOWN VALUES MUST BE INPUT TO THESE LINES.

SEE BELOW FOR A BREAK DOWN OF EACH LINE

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PATTERN AREA ~ z m ., ., lrl ~ m m

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l20 1.19 LlS L17 1.16 1.15 1.14 LL3 1.12 L11 1.10 1.9 l8 1.7 L6 L5 L-4 L3 L2 Ll Rl R2 R3 A4 R!li ll6 R7 lll!l R9 A:lO All A.12 AU R141U!I A: 16 A.17 AlB A: l 9 RZO

ANY YARN CARRIER CHANGE MUST BE CARRIED OUT IN R OP LINE 3

TO PROCESS PATTERN FOR MACHINE

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4 CHECK YARN CARRIERS AND PRESS EXECUTE

Inputting a Pattern on the Screen

When drawing a stitch pattern on the KnitPaint screen it is recommended to zoom the screen until a grid appears. Each square of the grid represent a stitch therefore a grid size of 6 x 6 would represent 6 wales by 6 courses see fig

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EACH SQUARE UP _______,. REPRESENTS A COURSE

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EACH SQUARE ACROSS REPRESENTS A WALE

Creating a Basic Knit Program When creating your program, first, draw the pattern part with the relevant colour number for the structure required (refer back to basic colour operation list) e.g.

111111 • e• •• •• •• •• .. . •• •• •• •• •• IIIII •• •• 1111 ••• • •• • • ... •• •• •• 811 Dll •••• • ••• ~~· Dll •• • • ... • •••• • •••• •• 1111 •• •• •• IIIII •• • ••••• • ••••• •• • • ... • • •• • •••• • •••• • • •• •• •• • • •• •• • ••• • ••• •• • • •• • • •• • •• • •• • • •• •• •• • • •• •• •• •• •• • • •• • • •• .. .. COLOUR NUMBER 1 II = FRONT BED KNIT (LINKS LINKS) .

COLOUR NUMBER 2 = BACK BED KNIT (LINKS LINKS) .Q.

COLOUR NUMBER 6 = FRONT KNIT + TRANSFER 1 POSITION LEFT

COLOUR NUMBER 7 D = FRONT KNIT + TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

machines each knitted article has a rib at the base of the structure, this rib ensures a finished edge which will not unravel. The most common use of ribs is at the welt or cuff of a garment. In electronic flat bed knitting the main supported rib structures are

• lxl ~gauge • Tubular • 2xl • 2x2

Ribs are usually defined as the number of front wales X back wales, therefore a 2x2 rib has 2 front wales by 2 back wales (see fig) If the rib required is larger than the supported ribs it is usual to set up in lxl ~gauge and immediately transfer out to the required rib (see Fig)

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TUBULAR

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2X2

Once the rib has been decided on and drawn, you must draw the automatic set up, this consists of one line of co lours 1 ,2 ,3 and 4 repeated across the width of your pattern . The 2nd line is the exact same as the rib you've chosen . See below

FIRST 2 LINES= AUTOMATIC SET-UP

Function of Automatic Set-up

When knitting, some form of take-down force must be acting upon the fabric, this take­down helps ensure the consistent quality of knitting and also ensures the knitabil ity of the fabric. Without any take-down force acting upon the fabric the loops would rise up between the needle beds affecting loop format ion. On hand flat machines, after the first or set-up course of rib is taken by the needles, a fabric comb is hand-inserted into it, upwards from under the needle beds, so that the eyelet holes of the comb protrude above the course. The comb wire is then inserted through the eyelets, over the set-up course, so that the comb is suspended from the course, and a takedown weight is attached to it. On Electronic machines this method is unsu itable as the force of an automated comb would effect, distort and possibly destroy the set-up course, to circumvent this; the initial courses are knitted in a low modulus yarn (high stretch) which can take the strain of the comb. Once the comb has attached itself to the elastomeric yarn, the yarns to be used in the knitted article are knitted in attaching to the comb via the previous knitted course of elastomeric yarn. A draw thread, which is a slippery nylon thread, is then used to separate (after the knitting process) the waste yarn caught by the comb and the knitted fabric. This process of comb insertion and waste knitting can take place over many knitted courses, to simplify this; the automatic set up is drawn to automate the insertion of the comb and waste knitting. Similar to the Auto set-up is the Auto press off, this will automate the taking out and gripping of yarns and also the pressing off of the knitted fabric. One line of colour 3 is draw along the width of the program. See fig Auto colours fo r set-up and press-off are not structure colours they represent automated knitting data.

AUTOMATIC PRESS-OFF

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• - •• - •• •• 1111 •• • • • II ... •• •• •• • • •• • • •• • •• • •• •• 1111 •• •• • • •• •• • ••• • ••• •• II • •• • • •• • •••• • •••• • • •• IJII •• • • •• •• • ••••• • ••••• • ••• •• •• •• • •••• • •••• • • •• •• •• • • •• a a •••• • ••• •• • • •• • • •• • •• • •• • • •• •• •• • • •• •• •• •• •• • • •• • • •• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • II • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 1!1 • II • • Ill lSI 1111 • • • • IIIII&• II • • • II Ill • • • • • m• ra• •• •• •• •• •• • • • .

When kni tting, yarn carriers are used to deliver yarn to the active needles, once past the active knitting zone the carriers need to be parked prior to the next knitted course. On Hand-Flat machines this function is carried out by yarn carrier stop blocks, which physically stop the carrier advancing past the block area. When creating a shaped sample on Hand-flat the carrier blocks have to be manually moved in relation to the width of knitted course. This method would be impractical on electronic machine so virtual stop blocks are created on the knit program. For each knitted course a start and an end point are required, colour number 13 is set either side of the structure program and always works in pairs, the start and the end point of each knitted course

CARRIER START LEFT TO RIGHT

COLOUR 13 WORKS IN PAIRS EACH SIDE OF KNITTED COURSE

BY CHANGING THE POSITION OF COLOUR 13 YOU CHANGE THE PARKED POSITION OF YARN CARRIER

Colour 13 is not a structure colour it sets the width to knit for the yarn carrier

Option lines

When knitting on the hand-flat the machine operator has to make many decisions and choices on how to knit, Stitch size, take-down, speed, number of knit courses ,pattern repeats and yarn carrier choice are all taken into consideration during the knit process. When programming, this information also needs to be included, either side of the structure pattern a set of 20 lines are positioned, these are referred to as option lines, a right set and a left set. Each line represents a specific function during the knit process

LEFT OPTION LINES

When input information in the option lines you draw to the right of the right option line and the left of the left option line

Basic Setting up of Option Lines

Rl Jump Economizer

A repeat area on the pattern is indicated by colour number 1, all repeat areas are even i.e. 2,4,6,8 etc multiply repeat areas can be set for the pattern see below

2 NO ECON SET REPEAT TO 3 IN AUTO PROCESS

1ST ECON SET REPEAT TO 3 IN AUTO PROCESS

PROGRAM

·--- 2ND STRUCTURE REPEAT

--- 1ST STRUCTURE REPEAT

ACTUAL KNrT

By altering the repeat setting on the machine various lengths of rib and structure can be attained

R3 Yarn Carrier Change

For every line of knit instruction corresponding yarn carrier information is required. This is input in R3; a colour number will act as an address for the yarn carrier information. It is considered best practice to use the corresponding colour number for the yarn carrier e.g. colour I =yarn carrier I colour 2 =yarn carrier 2 etc.

R3 Yarn Carrier

If there is a knit command on the pattern and no yarn carrier information is included in R3 the knit fabric will press off the machine

For ever knit command you must have a yarn carrier selected

R4 Knit System Choice

Usually when knitting on a Hand-Flat; only 1 knit course is possible in any direction, this is because there is only one set of raising and lowering cams front and back. However if an additional cam box is placed beside the existing cam box there is now 2 sets of raising and lowering cams front and back, so 2 courses can be knit in 1 direction this is now effectively a 2 system machine . . On electronic flat bed machines the number of systems can usually range between 2 and 6. In R3 the knit system is selected, if no colour is input the knit is single system if however 2 squares of colour 6 followed by 2 squares of colour 7 are input the knit system choice is 2 system. Consequently 3 squares of colour 6 followed by 3 squares of colour 7 are input the knit system choice is 3 system. See fig.

WHEN KNITTING 2 SYSTEM A DIFFERENT YARN ADDRESS IS REQUIRE IN R3 R3 KNIT SYSTEM CHOICE

COLOUR 0 = SINGLE SYSTEM COLOUR 6, 7 = DOUBLE SYSTEM

COLOUR 0 = SINGLE SYSTEM

COLOUR 6,7 = DOUBL E SYSTEM

COLOUR 0 =SINGLE SYSTEM

When knitting single system (1 System) only 1 yarn carrier is knit in 1 carriage movement. When knitting double system (2 System) 2 yarn carriers are taken across in 1 carriage movement.

R 5 Knit Cancel and Carriage Move Large amounts of program colour numbers consist of a knit and transfer command; however in some instants the knit command is not required. Therefore in R5 colour number 1 is included to cancel the knitting instruction. When using colour 1 in R5 no knit commands are input on the corresponding structure line to the knit cancel line. See fig

........................ . . •• •• ••• • ••

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= FRONT KNIT & TRANSFER 1 POSITION ~EFT

0 = FRONT KNIT & TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

KNIT CANCEL

; = FRONT TRANSFER 1 POSITION ~EFT

0 = FRONT TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

Carriage Move

Usually when knitting with more than one yarn carrier, it is considered good practice to keep all knit courses even to finish knitting on the side where the next carrier is positioned. However this is not always possible, when you finish a yarn carrier on the opposite side to the next chosen yarn carrier you can input a command, colour number 2, to move the cam box to the correct side to select the next yarn

When inputting rack commands

• co lour 1 = 1 rack position • co lour 2 = 2 rack position etc

L4 Racking left/right

When racking the machine can move either left or right. With colour 0 in L 4 the racking will be to the right and with colour 1 the racking will be to the left. In the above pattern the stitch is being deflected right and left, but there is no left command in L 4 this is because all the racking is to the right of 0 position see below

"0 " POSITION IS THE DEFAULT POSITION OF THE NEEDLE BEDS IN RELATION TO EACH OTHER

LS & 6 Knit & Transfer Speed

When nothing is input in L5 & 6 the pattern will be automatically knit on a high speed if additional speeds are required see below

• Colour 0 = High speed • Colour 1 = Low speed • Colour 2 = Middle speed • Colours11-17=Speeds1-7

L5 inputs the knit speeds L6 input the transfer speeds

L1 0 & 11 Knit and transfer Take down

When programming various knit structures it may be necessary to change the takedown tensions on the fabric this can be achieved by inputting different colour numbers in L 10 for knit and 111 for transfer, the colour number provides an address on the machine to make a takedown adjustment

R 6 Stitch Size

To indicate stitch setting a colour no is input in R6, any colour number between 1 and 44 can be input. Col 0 in R 6 defaults to stitch address 5 on the machine Please note THE COLOUR NUMBER DOES NOT INDICATE STITCH SIZE IT REPRESENTS AN ADDRESS ON THE STITCH MENU OF THE MACHINE WHERE THE ACTUAL STITCH SIZE IS INPUT

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l STITCH SIZE

R 6 STITCH INPUT

R8 Yarn-in I Yarn-out

Sometimes during knitting it is necessary to move a carrier to its rest position outside of the knit area. To move a carrier out input colour number 31on the last knitted row of the carrier. If the carrier is later used for knitting colour number 32 is input on the first row of knitting to bring the carrier back in.

Rl 0 Gripper & Cutter

When knitting on a hand-flat you must manually tie the yarn ends onto the side of the machine to secure them before knitting. This process is carried out automatically when you input colour number 41 in R 10, the yarns are gripped and cut by a gripper device at the side of the machine. The colour can be positioned anywhere in the first 20 courses except in the rib economizer.

NB NEVER OPERATE THE GRIPPER & CUTTER ON THE MACHINE UNLESS SUPERVISED BY THE RELEVANT MEMBER OF STAFF

Rll Stitch Presser

The stitch presser is attached to the cam box and can be activated by input colour number 1 in R 11. When activated, the stitch presser will drop down between the needle beds and push the knitted fabric down.

Generally it is recommended that the stitch presser be turned off for knitting 1 x 1 all needle structure

Stitch Presser out of action Stitch Presser in action

LEFT OPTION LINES

L2 RACKING POSITION

On flat-bed knitting machines racking is a very important function which facilitates stitch transfer and movement. When racking one needle bed is laterally moved in relation to the opposite needle bed, usually the back needle bed is displaced. When programming with colour numbers e.g. 92 (back knit and move 2 positions left) the software will organize the racking sequence there is no need to input additional racking information in L2 WHEN TO USE L2

Initially the most common use for L2 will be in the creation of Racked stitch patterns. By raking you deflect one set of stitches in relation to another