“Kick-Out”

S.S. (strictly street)

Build Instructions

Thank you for purchasing one of our new Kick-Out Manx’s. After being

out of production for nearly 30 years, in 1999 we reintroduced the world famous Classic

Manx – signature series (limited edition of 100), in 2002 and 2005 respectively introduced the

new Manxter 2+2 and Manxter DualSport, and now the newest Traditional Kick-Out and

Kick-Out S.S. Although often copied, the fact remains that the Meyers Manx became the

benchmark for all others.

The Manx’ tremendous universal appeal both on and off the street has propelled it

into an astronomical orbit. Well known around the world, our cars have reached as far as

Europe, Australia, Asia and South America. When most people talk about their fiberglass

dune buggies, they commonly (and often times) misrepresent them as a Meyers Manx. Why

is that? As misguided as some are, they immediately recall the most famous of buggies ever

built and desire to claim some of the history, nostalgia and quality that has been the core of

the Meyers Manx heritage.

As the best Meyers Manx ever, this Kick-Out S.S. (strictly street) kit reflects a 45 year

legacy of constant design improvement, with vastly increased accessibility to both

mechanicals and storage. The Meyers Manx Kick-Out S.S. uses the same main body as

the Traditional Kick-Out, but that is where the similarity ends.

The Meyers Manx Kick-Out S.S. is a kit that is all about street-orientation, ignoring the

need for big fat off-road wheels and tires, ground clearance and skid plates. The S.S. is

intended to be more of a ground-hugging highway scoot. With its curved windshield, buried

headlights, rear deck headrests, dual-hooped roll bar and vented sidepods, the illusion is

complete. Because of the complexity of the hood, windshield, dash area assembly, we

decided to pre-assemble this part of the kit for you, less trauma for you, means less phones

ringing for us. Enjoy!

The Kick-Out S.S. Manx that you have purchased will potentially become a

collectible in that this will possibly be my last buggy design, hence the name - Kick Out: A

surfing maneuver one makes at the end of the ride where he goes up and over the wave to finish with a bit of style and grace.

As in all of the Meyers Manx collection of cars the Kick-Out has the unmistakable

lineage of being hand-crafted and is the manifestation of integrity, ingenuity and heritage.

Remember: “if it doesn’t say Meyers, it’s not really a Manx!” Thank you for your patronage!

Bruce Meyers

Step #1 – Body Mounting Lower the body down and assure that the inner lip captures the pan. Cut short wood

sticks to jam between the tunnel and the body. These will force the body outwards for a

good fit before drilling the body mounting bolts

Step #2 - Hood Assy – Part #mxtr-1004 The earliest Meyers Manx’s had opening hoods, a feature much admired by other

buggy owners. Like the Manxter, the Kick-Out’s hood opens as well, but is also removable.

This allows access to an easily removed gas tank, front axle and brake system below. The

hood’s slip-hinge makes this quickly possible. One opens the hood, unplugs the headlights

and slips the hood sideways for complete removal

Two molded in dimples will be found near the lower front edge of the hood. Drill these

with a 3/8” dia. bit. Install the slip-hinge inside the hood (opposite of the gel-coated side).

Secure the hinge to the hood using the two 3/8” x ¾” socket head bolts, nuts and washers.

With both leafs of the slip-hinge joined together, place the hood on the car carefully

positioning the hood well back, snug between the front fenders. Working under the car, the

loose leaf of the slip-hinge should be swung upwards against the body. Drill upwards two

3/8” dia. holes. The two flat head socket bolts are used here necessitating countersinking

the gel-coated side of the fiberglass. This provides a smooth surface as protruding bolt

heads would wear holes in those spare plastic gas cans, tool bags or whatever might be

stored here.

Step #3 - Hood Emblem

The last and final touch to the hood is the application of the Meyers Manx hood

emblem on the small surface created for it. A dry run for placement is recommended. The

lower edge of the emblem should not be placed below or beyond the top or beginning of

the small radius on the bump just below the emblem. Before removing the protective

backing, hold the emblem in position and see if it rocks to and fro. If it does, use a marker

and outline the emblems placement. With masking tape, mask outside of the outline for

protection. Because the plug used to make the hood mold was so highly polished and

buffed, this small bump became slightly rounded, it’s once flat surface becoming rounded

off. A small block with course 16-36 grit sandpaper can be used, or a small 1½” – 2” disc

sander in your drill motor, gently flatten the surface, grinding into the gel-coat until its flat.

Check often with a small straight edge. 3-M emblem adhesive will insure a good grip being

sure to follow directions to the letter. Acetone or fingernail polish remover will remove the

lines from the marker pen.

Step #4 – Open Hood When open, the hood is designed to stand vertically, leaning against the backside of

the front bumper. The hood is shiny and smooth, so is the polished stainless bumper or

chromed nudge bar, whichever you have purchased. Gently coming to rest, there is little to

show where they touch, but eventually this will mar the finish. Two small pieces of rubber or

sponge-faced tape applied to the backside of the bumper will make a soft protective

resting place for the hood.

Step #5 – Fuel Tank Installation

Any VW Bug gas tank will fit the same space provided, but I recommend the following: In

1968 a little door appeared just forward of the passenger door on all VW Bugs. This little door

opened to a filler cap screwed to a neck within a rubber hose connected to the fuel tank

under the hood. Save all this stuff, it can be shortened some and used along with the four

hold-downs that clamp the tank into the body. If unavailable, four large fender washers will

also work under the four boltheads. A small diameter tube may be found at the opposite

end of the tank from the filler pipe. This can be used as a breather tube by running a small

plastic hose from this upwards, crossing to the other side of the car under the windshield,

down and out through a small hole down the body and out through another small hole

drilled in the floorpan to be pointed at the ground – works!

Step #6 – Fuel Tank Alteration Warning! This is a potentially dangerous process if the following procedure is done on a

used gas tank. The only answer to the interfering headlight well, bumping into the gas tank,

was to remove the interfering gas tank. Not to worry! Most old VW tanks that look great are

rusted out around the drain hole. Check it out. If you still want to use an old gas tank, plug

up all outlets, fill the tank with water, prop it up so the only air space is up in the intended

area of the front corner driver’s side before welding on the tank – whatever, it’s your choice.

We can supply you with a new altered tank or you may use the following directions on a

new tank.

Step #7 – Roll Bar Installation One of the most glaring mistakes in the building of a Meyers Manx dune buggy is the bad

placement of the roll bar. The slight sloping back of the windshield (18° from vertical) is to be

repeated in the roll bar – an elemental basic of the cars design. The fact that we have pre-

drilled the roll bar holes in the body does not insure proper placement, except for this

leaning back angle. The other element of misplacement is the not so perfect matching

alignment of its top to the top of the windshield. As one walks toward a buggy that has its

roll bar top edge cock-eyed to the windshields top edge, the whole car appears twisted or

distorted. So, we have decided to pre-drill only the roll bar holes on the driver’s side. Using

Roll Bar Assy – Part #154, you attach the roll bar to these holes only attaching the small “L”

brackets to the torsion housing first, then eyeball or level the roll bar to match the top of the

windshield, drill and secure the roll bar’s other side to complete the installation.

For a maximum strength installation, the “L” brackets should be bolted down into the

unused body mounting holes found nearest the outer ends of the rear torsion bar housing.

The remaining vertical end of the “L” bracket should fit against the outside of the body, the

intention being to pass a bolt through it, the fiberglass and the lower weldment bracket of

the roll bar. Most important, this ties the roll bar to the chassis. The upper weldment should

be bolted to the body side panel, using the 3/8” flat washers against the outside of the

fiberglass body.

Because of certain uncontrollable variables in bodies and body mounting, the “L”

brackets become “L”aughable and may need re-bending or re-drilling. Do not use the

sheet-metal floorpan as an attachment point.

Step #8 – Wire Management Wiring the Kick-Out is a simple job whether an aftermarket harness or the included

diagram is used. The attached wiring diagram was developed by the late David Helland. It

is an excellent model from which to wire your Kick-Out.

A six-foot plus 1¼” diameter tube is included in the Kick-Out kit. Intended to carry the

wire from the front to the rear of the car, it is to be fitted up under the driver’s side fender.

The 2 electrical clips provided need their holes to be enlarged to 3/8” diameter, as these

clips are to be secured by the upper bolts of the dash frame and roll bar. A 1” diameter hole

is to be drilled adjacent to the front of this tube through the body into the dash tub area to

complete the electrical passage.

Note: To aid in the wiring process, run a lead wire down through the hole in the body

and pull it through the rear exit hole. Make a loop on the end of the lead wire that the loom

can thread through and tape the loom to the wire. Pull the loom through the tube using the

lead wire as a guide.

*See supplemental wiring diagram.

Step #9 - Headlights

(2) 6” headlight housings

(2) high/low sealed beam halogen headlight bulbs

(2) pigtails

(2) aluminum mounting brackets

(6) 10/32 x 1” flathead bolts & nuts

There were certain limiting factors surrounding these buried-in-the-hood headlights and

their adjustability. The aluminum headlight mounting brackets interfered with the body and

so were resolved and slid inwards away from the body under the hood. This resulted in the

headlight bulbs being cocked at an angle (not being level to each other), however this is

remedied by simply assembling the glass bulb 2 5/8” off-center from the small screw at the

bottom of the trim ring. The glass has three small bumps or protrusions around its perimeter.

The bump at the bottom is marked “sealed beam”. This is the bump that should be placed 2

5/8” to the right or the left of the small trim ring screw at the bottom of the headlight. This will

level the headlights to each other. Mount the headlight assembly main bolt onto the

aluminum bracket. Position headlight in hood opening with bracket under the fiberglass.

The trim ring should only peek out of the hood approximately 5/8” concealing the joint

between trim ring and headlight housing. It is held in place around the glass bulb with small

springs – these are under tension and can be dangerous. Always wear eye protection.

We have pre-drilled the three bracket mounting holes below each headlight for you.

Using a counter-sink in your drill-motor, sink to level with the surrounding fiberglass the

polished heads of the (6) 10/32 x 1” bolts that secure the headlight mounting brackets to the

hood.

Passenger Side Headlight Assembly

OPTIONAL PARTS INSTRUCTIONS:

VENTED SIDEPOD ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS The Sidepods are to be slipped up under the buggy’s fender, not to be slipped in

between the body and the floorpan, but under the floorpan – along the bottom. At the

outset, three of four body bolts should be removed from each side of the floorpan, to be

drilled down through and replaced later (possibly with longer bolts).

When starting out, a floor jack with a wooden block on top, better yet, two jacks and

the help of a friend will reduce frustration. A bolt at each end, up under the fender, finishes

the job.

The Sidepods are not intended to be water or mud-proof, but lots of clever folks have

made a waterproof compartment by cutting a reach-through access hole from the inside of

the car. If one does this, remember to radius the inside corners of the cutout to reduce the

possibility of stress cracks later. The upholstery shop has “pinch welt”, a plastic edge trim for

covering the raw fiberglass edge of the access hole.

Much scrutiny of late Ferrari’s and Lamborghini’s air inlet ducts lays bare the source of the

protective screens that reside in these air ducts, as this material is nothing more than ½”

hardware cloth, the most common of barnyard materials! On smaller air inlets those

inventive Italians sometimes placed the wires of the screens at a 45° angle to be extra

clever. Otherwise, the screens are placed in a north, south, east and west configuration

level to the earth… suit yourself. Closer scrutiny shows that the screens have been powder-

coated shiny black, looking fatter or thicker. You too could do this – I didn’t. Further

inquisitiveness provided a not so surprising insight into these super expensive cars. I found a

dazzling display of fabrication as an art form wherein the delicate frame that secures the

screen to the car was hand-formed and welded from numerous itsy-bitsy pieces – nary a

thought of simplification from its maker! I used epoxy. No doubt there could be other

suitable ways to attach these screens to the backside of the fiberglass Sidepods, but the

following procedure worked for me and is simple and functional.

Fig 1. Working from the backside of the Sidepods, the outer perimeter wall of the air-duct

opening must be thoroughly sanded using the coarsest of sandpaper (16-grit) and/or a small

disk or drum sander. Sand about an inch or more down from the opening edge as illustrated

by the shaded area in Fig 1.

Fig 2. Placing the screen over the duct opening, hold it in place with weights. Using a

permanent marker, draw a line on the screen approximately ½” to ¾” outside and beyond

the duct openings edge.

Fig 3. After removing the excess screen (outside the drawn line) with tin snips, re-position the

screen centrally over the opening and hammer to bend down the outer edges of the screen

to conform as close as possible to the sanded fiberglass surface. Removal, bending, re-

bending and much tinkering with the fit is expected. Once satisfied, place weights to hold in

position. Apply two-part epoxy paste as regular epoxy runs down in puddles. However,

epoxy can be thickened with sawdust, painters whiting, talc, flour, sand, even dirt – who

knows what else? Bondo will work also as it is more viscous and will stay where you want it.

Once cured, turn Sidepods over and mask from the screen outwards covering the Gelcoat

surface. Using rattle-cans, spray black from the outside, turn Sidepods over and spray from

the backside of the screen and surrounding area. Turn back over to the front side and

remove all masking materials. Once installed, remember, I have confided in you all that I

know about air-duct screens and that you will accept no sass from Ferrari’s and Lambo’s!

OPTIONAL PARTS INSTRUCTIONS:

OPTIONAL PARTS INSTRUCTIONS:

REAR DECK LID ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS The design of these hinges was to move the deck lid away as it opens, avoiding interference from the roll bar. We have completed the hinge assembly for you. The plastic edge trim provides a finished look and serves to protect the body from the abrasive fiberglass edge of the deck lid when closed. This can be installed by bending and pressing it onto the edge of the deck lid and the ends of the front panel.

1. Place deck lid over the rear package area of the body to reveal approximately ¼” - ½” of exposed body all around – center from side to side. Hold this position with several pieces of tape. See Fig. 1.

2. To determine the placement of the hinges, the longest part (8”) is the top of the hinge,

to be later bolted with three flathead socket bolts countersunk into the deck lid. The

top of this part is angled to match the sloping shape of the deck lid. The two

articulating links are bolted pointing to the cars forward end. See Fig. 2.

3. First proceed with the following. Close the hinge and with a helper place the hinge,

triangular-shaped part down and out against the body side and long part up against

the underside of the deck lid (being careful to stop against the inside, forward radius

of the deck lid). While holding this position with helper, drill through the bottom hole of

the triangular-shaped part. Using 5/16” x ¾” hex head bolt and fender washer on the

outside against fiberglass, tighten with a 5/16” x ¾” nyloc nut. Complete attachment

of the remaining two holes and tighten. Repeat on the opposite side of the car. Now

the hinges are attached to the cars body.

4. Remove deck lid from car. See Fig. 3.

5. Pairs of hinges must have a common axis. With the use of a straight edge placed

across the car and a square, the upper assemblage of articulating parts can be

rotated horizontally. After squaring, the direction of the longer 8” part can be secured

by tightening the one center bolt (¼-20” x 5/8”) already loosely installed. Install

remaining two ¼-20” x 5/8” bolts and nyloc nuts and tighten.

6. Before replacing the deck lid as before, cover the areas with masking tape where the

tops of the hinges will touch the underside of the deck lid. Now replace and fix deck

lid in position with tape as before. The hinges should be touching the masking tape on

the underside of the deck lid. Reaching up under, trace with a pencil or pen, drawing

an outline of the hinge onto the masking tape. With help, the deck lid can be opened

and the hinges can be “C-clamped” (remember to protect the outside gel-coat with

tape) to their outlines. Using a 5/8” dia. or larger countersink, carefully remove

material from the top of the deck lid, stopping to place the flat head socket (5/16” x

¾”) into the hole, checking for a flush surface. Once satisfied, install and tighten with

nyloc nuts. Drill, countersink and bolt in place after removal of all masking tape from

the underside of the deck lid.

Now cut a stick to hold the deck lid open. The spring prop is to be installed next.

Fig 7. This simple device is to be bolted top and bottom with the four 6/32” x ¾” Phillips

buttonhead bolts and nuts. One swivel is to be mounted on the upper end of the top hinge

bracket 1½” from its end as shown in Fig 7. The lower swivel is to bolt to the fiberglass as

shown, ½” behind the lower hinge bracket and ¾” below the upper corner of the body.

Simply pull the spring out of column and gravity does the rest.

Fig. 4 on the following page.

The ¼” thick mahogany plywood floor has a piano hinge riveted in place for you. This

provides the attachment to the front panel. Once bolted together, the floor can be swung

upwards providing access to the spare tire well and battery. The pilot holes at each end of

the floor provide the location of the two eye-nut hold-downs to be installed next.

7. Place the plywood floor in car with piano hinge facing up. With floor held well aft, a

¼” dia. drill bit is to be used to drill downwards through the two pilot holes and the

fiberglass below. After removing the plywood floor, insert two ¼” dia. bolts up through

these holes and secure them with ¼” dia. nuts on top. Next, enlarge the ¼” holes in

the plywood floor with a larger ½” dia. drill bit. This will provide the space for the ¼”

dia. nuts to recess into, allowing the floor to settle down to the fiberglass below.

Replace the floor over the recessed nuts, hand tighten the eye-nuts and 1” flat

washers. The eye-nuts provide an attachment for straps or shock cords to secure the

luggage or whatever? To achieve a good fit of the front panel, the intention is to

have the deck lid, when closed, sit on top of the small horizontal plane that turns

rearwards at the top of the front panel. The top of the corner or radius of the panel is

where the deck lid should intersect to sit on top of the panel. See Fig. 5

Now that the rear deck lid is installed and closed down, one will find a loose, not completely

shut corner of the deck lid nearest the spring-prop – a result of the spring-prop in its folded

down position, springing back, lifting the deck lid a bit at the nearby corner. Never fear, one

will find by pushing down, where to locate the lock and key that will squeeze the deck lid

totally closed. This is directly behind the headrest bump, approximately 10” from the nearest

corner of the deck lid. Next, apply a 4”-5” square patch of masking tape to the underside of

the deck lid and adjacent upper corner of the body. See Fig 6 on the following page.

With the deck lid closed, and reaching up under from the open front (towards the front of

the car), mark by pointing a pen or pencil upwards (holding and sliding back and forth

against the rear body wall) onto the underside of the deck lid. Now open the deck lid and

make another mark 1” forward (again, towards the front of the car). See Fig 7.

This will be the location of the lock. Drill a small 1/8” dia. pilot hole up through the deck lid.

Shut the deck lid and drilling downwards from the top, enlarge the hole - either by holesaw

or drillbit to a 5/8” dia. hole. This is the width of the two non-rotating flat spots on the locks

cylinder. Now with a rat-tail file, widen the hole leaving the two flat spots untouched until

the cylinder fits through this now oblong hole without revolving. The cam lock comes with an

assortment of parts for your decision making. Two small washers with square holes allow a

quarter or 90° turn, or a 180° for a half turn. There are three different length cams. The

longest 3” cam should be used by bending two 90° bends 3/4 of an inch from both ends,

forming a “Z” shape. See Fig 8.

Assemble the cylinder with the “Z” shaped cam and secure into the deck lid. Shut the deck

lid and while holding it down, revolve the cam with the key. Looking under the deck lid from

the open front, revolve the cam with the key until it bumps into the masking tape on the

vertical surface of the body. The intention is for the cam to hook into the slot you’re about to

make in the body. Revolve the cam both ways touching the masking tape where a slot

should be drilled and filed into a slot that the cam will protrude into, locking the deck lid to

the body. Remember, this slot should, at first, be made a tad too far below the cam until

filing makes it a tight fit. No doubt there will be much fiddling about, possibly even bending

the cam ever so slightly to accommodate a good fit. Fig. 8 on the following page.

8. The front panel should be placed in the car and can be held in position with duct

tape – wrapping it around the top corners to the body. The small space at each end

of the panel should be equal distance – the same. The piano hinge should be swung

open against the inside vertical surface of the front panel. The bottom of the plywood

floor should be even with the bottom edge of the front panel. Drill a 3/16” dia. hole at

each end of the piano hinge and secure. See Fig 9.

Remove plywood floor and the semi-attached front panel to your bench and finish drilling

and securing with 3/16” bolts and nuts. Replace floor and panel assembly in car,

securing with eye-nuts and washers. The panel can be shifted up and down a tad

because the floor is flexible in this dimension. The two 5” long aluminum angles are to be

eventually mounted inside the compartment and there is a right and a left. The angled

end is to be placed downwards and out against the body. They are to be placed as

high as possible to avoid interference with the wheel well (but don’t install them just yet).

After taping the front panel in place once again (level to the top of the body), correctly

place the aluminum angle pieces on the front side of the panel. Hold with tape and drill

the ¼” holes. Now, undo the tape and place the angles behind the panel and secure

with four ¼” dia. buttonhead bolts and nuts. The last step is easier if you have a long ¼”

drill bit (like maybe 12” long), if you are certain the upper outer corners of the front panel

is even and level with the body. Then drill and attach from the inside of the

compartment, the last four ¼” dia. bolts and nuts. Have fun, and good luck!