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Kevin Robbs and Emily Gwilliam
Costume Design has been around since the beginning of Theater
Actors would manage all their own costumes when acting in a play
In early theater, men would wear specific colors and different types of garments to impersonate a woman
Costume Designers weren't available to the actors until the late 1800’s to the early 1900’s
They would have a limited choice of which fabric to choose from
Each actors wardrobe would go from play to play with them
Sometimes you would see a costume that was worn in one play in a different play
About Costume Design
Costume Designers start out all their projects with brainstorming and sketching
The Director will also dictate how much the designers can spend on their projects (Budget)
First step is talking with the Director and all the other designers to come up with an all around concept
The Costume Designer then searched for fabrics and color schemes to go along with the concept
They would go through dozens if not a hundred different sketches that had fabric attached to them and submit them to the directed hoping one would pull through
Sizing for the actors and any additional props are added into the design as needed
Continued…
Onkoi- Headdress worn by actors
Mask- depicted emotions or even animals
Chitons- a toga or a robe worn by actors
Himation- a thick wool robe draped over the actors body for specific roles
Kurthonoi- high-heeled boots or platform sandals in which to elevate the actor
Greek and Roman Design
Men would wear a garment called “Plaid Cotehardie” (a long sleeved garment often laced or buttoned down the front or back)
Skirts were worn more commonly on men than woman
Chains and swords were added to the costume
Hats and even Crowns were worn as headdress’
Medieval and Renaissance Design (Men)
Woman wore long flowing full length dresses
It was custom to show the woman's chest to symbolize womanliness
Make-up was dull in the Medieval time but was very vibrant in the Renaissance
They wore bonnets and or beautiful head pieces to show class
Hoop skirts were introduced to theater
Medieval and Renaissance Design (Woman)
Asian actors wore big and vibrant robes that covered the whole actor
Face paint was a traditional way of personifying a character
Specific colors like: red, white, black, green and gold were applied to the costumes as a basic color palette but could be modified
For footwear they would wear sandals or slippers
Puppets would be introduced and would wear the same wardrobe as an actual actor
Asian Design
Born in Boston She studied at many institutions
including; New York of Fine and Applied Arts, The Art Students League of New York, and the Acedemie de la Grande Chaumiere in Paris
One of her first productions was the Broadway style of Alice in Wonderland in 1931
In the production of The King and I, she used silks from Thailand which created a new trend in fashion and interior design
Irene Sharaff (1910-1993)
Featured Work
Academy Award in 1961
“West Side Story”
Academy Award in 1963
“Hello Dolly”
Academy Award in 1963
“Mommy Dearest”
Academy Award in 1963
“Cleopatra”
Academy Award in 1966
“Who's afraid of Virginia Woolf?”
Academy Award in 1956
“Guys and Dolls”
Academy Award in 1956
“The King and I”
Academy Award in 1951
“An American In Paris”
“Funny Girl”
Broadway Work
Irene Sharaff’s work in Hallelujah Baby
Tony Award Nominations
Tony Award winner “The King and I”
Attended Yale School of Drama
He was nominated for 12 Tony awards but only winning 5 of them
In 2000, William was named “Person of the Year” by the National Theatre Conference
In 2003, he was crowned “Legend of Fashion” by the Art Institute of Chicago
In 2006, he was inducted to the Theater Hall of Fame
William Ivey Long (1947 – present)
Drama Desk Award for “Outstanding Costume Design”
Tony Awards
“Nine”
“Crazy for you”
“The Producers”
“Hairspray”
“Grey Gardens”
Interview with William Long
“La Cage Aux Folles”
www.IBDB.com “Irene Sharoff and William Ivey Long”www.youtube.comwww.playbillwault.com
Gronemeyer, Andrea. “Theater”. Germany. Barron’s. 1996
Williams, John. “Costumes and Settings for Shakespeare’s Plays”. Totswa, New Jersey. 1982
Newton, Stella Mary. “Renaissance Theatre Costume”. New York. Theatre Arts Books. 1975
La Motte, Richard. “Costume Design 101”. Studio, California. Michael Wiese Productions. 2010
Cohen, Robert. “Theatre, Ninth Edition”. Avenue of Americas, New York. McGraw-Hill. 1938
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