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Kenmore
INSTRUCTIONS
ZIG • ZAG SEWING MACHINEMODEL 1430/1431/1625/1641/1940/1941
59982
TABLE OF CONTENTS ..............................................
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1
4.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINEIdentifying Parts ................................................. 2, 3Installing Machine ............................................... 4, 5Converting to Free-arm Sewing ................................ 6Winding the Bobbin ............................................... 7Threading the Bobbin Case ...................................... 8Threading of Top Thread ........................................ 9USING THE CONTROLSAdjusting Top Tension ........................................... 10Adjusting Bobbin Tension ....................................... 11Checking Tensions ................................................ 12Stitch Width Control .............................................. 13Stitch Length Control ............................................. 13Reverse Stitch Control ........................................... 14Special Stitch Modifier ........................................... 14Buttonhole Control ................................................ 14Special Stitch Dial ............................................ 15, 16Pressure Regulator ................................................ 17Feed Dog Control .................................................. 18Sewing Light ....................................................... 18Needle Plates .................................................. 19, 20Seam Guides .................................................. 19, 20ACCESSORIESNeedles .............................................................. 21Needle, Thread, and Fabric Chart .............................. 22Presser Feet ........................................................ 23Buttonhole Attachment .......................................... 24
STARTING TO SEW .............................................. 25
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHESStraight Stitching ............................................ 26, 27Zigzag Stitching ................................................... 27Stretch Stitching ............................................. 28 - 30SPECIAL FINISHING STITCHESButtonhole Making .......................................... 31 - 34Blind Hemming ..................................................... 35Satin Stitching, Appliqueing .................................... 36Zipper Application ................................................. 37Mending ........................................... -.................. 38Darning ...................... -........................................ 38Button Sewing ..................................................... 39Bar Tacking ............................... ....: ..................... 39FREE-ARM SEWING ............................................. 40
CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS ............. 41, 42
CARING FOR THE MACHINECleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle ............................... 43Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate ................................... 44Oiling Underside .............................................. 45, 46Oiling in Face Cover Plate ........................................ 46Parts List ....................................................... 47, 48
_1. _KNOWING YOUR MACHINE _
FRONT VIEW
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(Flat-bed type)
2
BACK VIEW
(Model 1430, 1940)
!625, !1641,19412only)
(-_odel 19412 only)
(Flat-bed type)
3
INSTALLING MACHINE (Free-armtype)
1. To install the machine in cabinet, positionmachine head on cabinet platform so thatholes on bottom of machine match thoseon boards. Insert washers and screws
and tighten into place. (Fig. 1)
2. A separate base and cover is available tocarry the machine when needed. Thebase must be removed when machine isused.
To install machine in carrying case, setmachine into base, with word FRONT inbase facing you. (Fig. 2)Place cover on machine with word
,
,
"SEARS" on handle facing you, The caseslopes in the same direction of the ma-chine. (Fig. 3)
Push the speed control plug onto three-prong connector, Plug machine cordinto any !10.!20 volt wall outlet. Turnon power by pushing light and powe_switch. (Fig. 4)Spool pins are packed in accessorybox.Screw thread spool pins in placesecurelywith a screw driver, Position nylon discsas shown.in illustration.
4
INSTALLING MACHINE (Flat bed type)
1. Loosen the two hinge screws underholes in the rear edge of the machinebed.
2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet orcase. Slip machine head onto pins.
3. Tighten hinge screws securely.
4, Push the speed control plug ontothree-prong connector under thebed plate. Lower machine head tofront cabinet flap,
g
6,
Plug machine cord into any 110-120volt wall outlet. Turn on power bypushing light and power switch.
Spool pins are packed in accessorybox. Screw thread spool pins inplace securely with a screw driver.Position nylon discs as shown inillustration.
5
CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING
° Remove the base from the machineby pushing the release button (ifapplicable) and pulling the base tothe left. (Fig. 1, 2)
2. To replace the base, simply slide italong the free arm to its originalposition. (Fig. 1)
Note: Base cannot be removed or
replaced unless shuttle cover isclosed.
6
WINDING THE BOBBIN
,
,
3.
4.
Release clutch by pulling hand wheelor turning clutch knob toward you asshown in Fig. 1.
Draw thread from spool throughbobbin winder tension disc as shown.
Pull end of thread through hole inbobbin as shown.
Place bobbin onto bobbin windershaft with end of thread comingfrom the top of the bobbin. Push
5.
6.
bobbin winder latch against bobbinuntil it clicks, Holding onto end ofthread, start machine. When bobbinis slightly filled, snip off end ofthread.
Start machine. Wind thread untilbobbin winder latch releases.
Push in hand wheel or tighten clutchknob to return to stitching position,Remove bobbin,
7
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
1. Remove base front cover by push-ing the release button on the leftside. Open the shuttle cover.
2. Raise needle to its highest positionby rotating hand wheel towardyou.
3. To remove bobbin case from shut-
tle, pull open latch of bobbin case.
4. Pull bobbin case straight out ofshuttle.
5. Insert bobbin into bobbin case mak-
ing sure thread is coming frombobbin as shown.
6. Pull thread through slot of case asshown.
7. Pull thread under tension spring.
8, Holding latch open, position caseinto shuttle, and release latch. Caseshould lock into place when latchis released.
THREADING OF TOP THREAD
Place thread on spool pin as shownwith thread coming from the back ofthe spool. Draw thread through thetop thread guide. Holding the spoolstationary with right hand, pull theend of the thread between the tensiondiscs as shown. Pull the spring wireloop up and past the top hook untilthe thread can be slipped into hook
(See Fig. 2).When the thread is released, the springwire loop will return to position (Fig.
3) with thread in proper place. Releasespool of thread and hook thread intotake up lever as shown (Fig. 4).Continue to thread machine exactlyas shown. Needle must always bethreaded in direction as shown inFig. 5.
Hold needle thread loosely in lefthand and rotate hand wheel toward
you one complete turn, Bring bobbinthread up by pulling upper thread.
9
ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS
Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates yourtop thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes. The
pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial. The higher the number, thetighter the tension.
There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension for onefabric may not be correct for another. The required tension depends upon thestiffness of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being
sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are making.
it is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before starting to
make a garment as shown below. Use the straight stitch function.
0 Upper thread too tight
Decrease Tension
0 Upper thread too loose
Increase Tension
ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSIONS
Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper threadtension.
If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary toloosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads. Be sure to balancethem as indicated on Page 10.
When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments witha screwdriver.
DECREASE TENSION
_. Turn Counter Clockwise.
INCREASE TENSION
Turn Clockwise.
11
CHECKING TENSIONS
The easiest way to check tensions is to sew a medium zig zag stitch on thefabric you will be using. Use the appropriate type of thread and needle.Use different colors of thread on the bobbin and upper spool.
Sew a line of zig zag stitches The bobbin thread should not snow on thetop of the fabric.
Adjust the top tension if necessary to achieve the stitch balance mentionedabove
UNBALANCED BALANCED
TOP VIEW
1'3
STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
This control regulates the width of thestitch you select. THE HIGHER THENUMBER*THE WIDER THE STITCH.You may vary your zigzag stitch widthby adjusting this control to the settingyou desire.
This control must be on Red Dot inorder to do straight stitching. Turn onlythe outer rim of this control to set thestitch width. The center of the controldials the special stitches the machine iscapable of sewing.
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL
The stitch length control regulates thelength of the stitch you select. THEHIGHER THE NUMBER-THE SHORTERTHE STITCH.
The number on stitch length controlindicates the approximate number ofstitches per inch. The stitch setting youuse will be determined by the thicknessof the fabric you are sewing.
A IQnger_stiich setting should be usedfor thicker fabric or more layers of fabric.The middle range of the control is the10-12 stitchper inch range which is themost commonly used.
A basting stitch is made by using thelongest possible stitch setting -6 stitchesper inch. The red marking ,=,= on thecontrol is the setting used for theshortest stitches such as in SatinStitching.
13
REVERSE STITCH CONTROL':
It is best to begin and end seams with afew stitches taken in reverse, This iscalled back tacking. Back tackingfastens the ends of the seams firmly andpreventsrave!ing. _ : • _ :_:
When reverse stitching is needed, turnthe control clockwise and: hold_ theredur!ng sewing, The fabric w!ll..imme-diately sta[t feeding backwards andseam will be fastened .....
SPECIAL STITCH MODIFIER
This control gives you the means ofvarying the stitches on the SpecialStitch Dial, When the pointer: is turnedto the Red Dot, the machine sewsforward only, When the pointer isturned to the White Dot, the forwarddesigns are varied by the machinesewing in a forward and reversemanner. Carefully read directions givenin the next section of the book in order
to accomplish the various stitchescorrectly.
BUTTONHOLE CONTROL
(Model 1625 only)
This control is used in making button-holes. Detailed instructions are given inthe next section of the book.
SPECIAL STITCH DIAL
There are certain types of utility stitches you will use often in your homesewing. This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for thetask at hand.
All stitches printed in red on the dial must be sewn with the Special StitchModifier set at the Red Dot.
To make the stitches printed in white on this dial, the Special Stitch Modifiermust be set at the White Dot.
THE RED DOT SETTING
The setting illustrated above is the one used for most of your stitching.At this setting you may straight stitch, stretch stitch and make a simplezig zag stitch. As each stitch is dependent upon the settings of your othercontrols, carefully read the directions in the next section of the book for thevarious stitches.
15
BLIND STITCH AND OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH "V"V" _
Blind hems are made by using the setting shown above with the StitchModifier set on the Red Dot. When the Modifier is set on the White Dot,overcast stretch stitching is made.
SPECIAL MENDING STITCH AND SMOCKING STRETCH '"'_'_tVY_00_
You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category. For thisreason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears. It isaccomplished with the above illustrated setting and the Modifier set at theRed Dot. When the Modifier is turned to the White Dot a Smocking Stitchresults. For directions see the next section of the book.
SPECIAL BOX STITCH AND ELASTIC STRETCH .JV_L/_
The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing and special stretch
stitch for sewing elastic such as sportswear, girdles and other garments thatrequire stretch. See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches,
SERGING OR PINE LEAF STRETCH _j_////
Serging or pine leaf stretch is used for seam finishing on all types of fabrics.It is a stitch used in the garment industry. _It forms a good looking seam, stitchingand overcasting the edges. This stitch is useful for seaming of seimwear, stretchski pants and other types of knit sportswear. Modifier must be set on theWhite Dot.
1R
OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF MACHINE IN SEWING
In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other small
regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine.
PRESSURE REGULATOR
Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the
pressure on the presser foot. (See above).To-increase the pressure, push down inner pin until a suitable pressure isobtained.
Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches,or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appearon the fabric, reduce the pressure.
When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure. Increase
pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.
17
1R
3
FEED DOG CONTROL
There are a few times when you want tocontrol the feeding of the fabricyourself. Remove the base cover fromthe base. Pull down the feed dog controlor turn to the left as shown in Fig. 1.The feed dogs will drop. You may thendetermine the movement of the fabric
yourself.
For most of your stitching, the feed dogcontrol should be in the up position.
Whenever you raise or lower the feeddogs, be sure to have the presser foot inthe up position.
SEWING LIGHT
The light and power switch shown inFig, 1 and 2 provides the electric currentfor the motor as well as for the light.In order to operate the machine, thisswitch must be on. To turn on the light,depress the upper side of the switch.If you are interrupted while sewing andmust leave the machine unattended,just turn off the switch and the machinecannot be started accidentally.
The sewing light is located inside theface cover plate as shown. To replacethe bulb, turn light off, and swing theface cover plate open. Push up on thebulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise.Remove bulb from socket. Push in newbulb and turn counter-clockwise.
NEEDLE PLATE INSERTS(Free-arm type)
You are provided with two needle plateinserts:
A. Needle plate with wide oval hole forall zigzag stitching.
B. Needle plate with round hole forregular straight stitching and straightstretch stitch sewing.
CHANGING NEEDLE PLATEINSERTS
1. Raise needle to its highest positionand raise presser foot.
2. Swing shuttle cover open.
3. Push a spring under the plate asshown to release the needle plateinsert.
4. Remove needle plate insert byplacing thumb under edge of plate.
5. Replace the needle plate insertpositioning as shown in Fig. 3.
6. Push needle plate insert down tolock into place, Reposition theshuttle cover.
SEAM GUIDES
Seam guides are printed on either sideof the needle plate to aid you in guid-ing your fabric, THE GUIDE LINEEXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHTSIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE ISTHE "ALL IMPORTANT" 5/8'" SEAMLINE.
The cornering guides are convenient
when turning a square corner 5/8"from the fabric edge. See nextsection of this book for directions.
19
i
MULTI PURPOSE NEEDLEPLATE (Flat-bed type)
This multi purpose needle plate pro-vides a small round hole for straightstitching and a wide oval hole for zigzag and decorative stitching.
CHANGINGMULTI PURPOSENEEDLE PLATE1. Raise needle to its highest position
and raise presser foot.
2. Open hand hole cover plate.
1
*
.
Remove multi purpose needle plateby placing thumb under edge ofplate and lifting it up and out.
Reverse and reposition the needleplate as shown.
Lock it into place by fixing handhole cover plate in position.
SEAM GUIDES
Seam guides are printed on either sideof the needle plate to aid you in guidingyour fabric. THE GUIDE LINEEXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHT SIDEOF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS THE "'ALLIMPORTANT" 5/8" SEAM LINE.
The cornering guides are convenientwhen turning a square corner 5/8" fromthe fabric edge. See next section of thisbook for directions.
;)0
ACCESSORIES
NEEDLES
Use KENMORE needles. The size ofthe needle should conform with thesize of the thread and both should besuitable to the fabric (See next page).
Never use a bent needle or one with a
blunt point.
Fig. 1. shows you the exact length ofyour needle. Be sure you never useone in your machine that is not thisexact length.
You will find among your accessories"Q NEZI_LES",.with blue shanks. Thesespecial needles are to be used whensewing, certain knits and certaindifficult synthetic fabrics. If youexperience skipped stitches in any ofyour sewing, use -o NEEDLE",..
PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE
Raise needle bar to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel toward you.Loosen the needle clamp screw. Hold-ing the needle with the flat side awayfrom_you, slip the needle into theneedle bar. Make certain it is up asfar as it can go. Tighten the needleclamp screw-with a screwdriver.
If you have a double needle for decora-tive stitching, it is inserted in the samemanner as the single needle.
21
NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART
O r )
PRESSER FEET
SUPER-HIGH BAR TYPE
Simply drop the presser foot lock andslip the foot away from the presser bar.To aid you in the placement of thepresser foot, the presser foot lever canraise the foot beyond the normal "'up"position. After the foot is placed on thepresser bar, lift the lock as high as it willgo to hold the foot securely.
SNAP-ON TYPE
Raise the presser bar to its highestposition by lifting the presser foot lever.Press the toe of presser foot upward ashigh as it will go and foot is released.
Place the desired foot on the needleplate aligning the needle holes and lowerthe presser foot lever. Press down onpresse! foot thumb screw until theclamping shank snaps on the foot.
ONE-PIECE TYPE
Raise the presser bar to its highestposition by lifting the presser foot lever.Loosen the presser foot thumb screwand remove the foot.
Insert new foot from the front and
tighten the screw using the largescrewdriver to make certain the foot issecure.
23
BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT
You will find the following parts inyour Attachment Box:
1. Cover Plate with pinion gear in thecenter.
1 Buttonhole adapter to be usedinstead of base cover When button-hole attachment is used. (Free-armtype only).
3. A set of 2 templates is furnishedwith each attachment. Each
template is marked showing thetype and length of each button-hole.
= Desired size of buttonhole is select-
ed by turning template advanceknob. Length of buttonhole appearsin window on top side of guideplate.
Details in using this attachment aregiven in the next section. Followthose directions carefully for perfectlyformed buttonholes.
24
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with theaccessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with yournew Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow eachtime you sit down to sew:
, Test the needle - it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point,It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do notbe afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabricsmade of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily thanfabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of thethreads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabricshould be dodble thickness, Adjust the machine for the length of stitchand tension suitable to your fabric.
, Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of thematerial to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placedon the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simpleseam.
°
.
7.
Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put onthe speed control, the faster the machine will sew.
Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
o Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Neverpull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
25
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHES ....
STRAIGHT STITCHING
Set your machine just as shown in theillustration in order to straight stitch.it is important each dial have thefollowing settings.
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial . wwa_--_Stitch Width Control - Red Dot
Stitch Length Control - 12 to 6
Special Stitch Modifier - Red DotStraight Stitch FootStraight Stitch Needle Plate
You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types ofsewing - temporary and permanent.
1. Temporary stitching - Usually the longest stitch possible and often doneon a single layer of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are:
BastingStay stitchingGuide line marking
2. Permanent stitching - This is the actual stitching that holds the garmenttogether. Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garmentand therefore must be good looking.
The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10- 12 stitchesper inch. This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.
You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiplelayers of fabric and thicker seams. Some of these seams are:
Common two layer seamsCurved two layer seamsTop stitched three layer seamsTop stitched four layer seams
When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness,sew slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in thisarea.
FASTENING A SEAM
Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needleinto fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam. Turn the reverse stitchcontrol clockwise and stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning ofseam. Release control and complete seam. When you reach the end,turn the control clockwise and sew back over 1/2 inch of completedseam.
26
TURNING A SQUARE CORNER
To turn a square corner 5/8" fromthe fabric edge, stop stitching withthe needle tip piercing the fabric,when reaching the cornering guideas shown. Raise the presser foot,turn fabric. New stitching line willalign with 5/8" seam guide on sideof needle plate. Lower the presser footand begin stitching in new direction.
ZIGZAG STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - ww_=_--Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Stitch Length Control - Any numberSpecial Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate
This type of stitching greatly expandsthe use of your machine. This is thefeature that enables you to overcastseams, blind hem, applique, button-hole, monogram, and make all thepretty embroidery designs by machine.Simply use the settings indicated in
the illustr_ion for the simple zigzag.Follow directions given in the follow-ing pages for more specific uses.
OVERCASTING
This is one of the more frequently usedzigzag stitches in garment construc.tion. You may, want to overcast
along the raw _edge of each seamallowance or fold the raw edge towardthe garment and stitch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitch-
ed.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabricjust short of the outside edge. Raw orWorn edges of older garments can beovercast to prevent further raveling.
27
STRETCH STITCHING
The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics. These
are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.
• k
I\I\/,,,>
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/% J%
(I)®®®®®
1. Straight Stretch2. Rick _Rack Stretch3. Smocking Stretch4. Elastic Stretch5. Overcast Stretch
6. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch
STRAIGHT STRETCHSTITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - v_l_i_Stitch Width Control- Red Dot
Stitch Length Control - 6 .....Special Stitch Modifier - White DotStraight Stitch FootStraight Stitch Needle Plate
Use this stretch stitch with knittedfabric and other, fabrics that stretch.Sew as you do with regular straightstitch seaming. The seam may bepressed open as with any regularseam, but will stretch if necessary.
This is also a good stitch to use oncurved seams regardless of the typeof fabric. Any seam that will receivea great deal of strain when wornshould be sewn with the stretchstitch. Use in children's shorts and
slacks as well as adult sports clothes,
28
RICK-RACK STRETCHSTITCHING ....
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - wN_=-"Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4•Stitch Length Control - 6Special Stitch Modifier - White Dot
Zigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate
Use this special stitch for al!-purposeheavy duty sewing of stretch fabrics:Sew as you do a 'regular plain zigzagseam.The machine will make triple lockstitchesback and forth of a fixedstitch length, to give the stretch toseam,
SMOCKING STRETCHSTITCHING
SETTINGS
Step 1. Make s straight line of gathers acrossthe fabric that you wish to smock.
Step2. Speciai St!tch Dial ; V,"¢_.Stitch Width Control - 3 to 4
Stitch Length Control - 6Special Stitch Modifier - White DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate
With a narrow strip of fabric directlyunder the line of gathering, stitch over ....the gathers. The design will be a seriesof small diamonds.
When smocking a garment, the stitch-ing should be done before the piece issewn into the garment.
29
30
OVERCAST STRETCH ..........STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial. "VV WWStitch Width Control - 4
Stitch Length Control - 6Special Stitch Modifier. White Dot
Zigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate
This is the same type of stitch used bythe garment industry in making sports-wear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to1/4"', The seam is formed and finishedin one operation. It must be used whenyou are making swimwear, ski pantsand other garments that require stretch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabricjust short of the outside edge.
Raw or worn edges of older garmentscan be overcast to prevent furtherraveling.
ELASTIC STRETCH STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - J_'_Stitch Width Control - 4
Stitch Length Control - 6Special Stitch Modifier - White DotZigzag Presser FoQtZigzag Needle Plate
This is a good stitch to use in making orrepairing lingerie. The stitch is decora-tive as well as useful, Simply stitchthe elastic into place around the waistof the garment, making sure that theelastic is evenly spaced. To do thismark the correct length piece intoquarters and match these markingswith center front and back of the gar-ment as well as side seams.
After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many finishingtouches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the Kenmore has been
designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be done by hand.
BUTTONHOLE MAKING(Model 1625 only)
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dia!- w_]-.---Stitch Width Control - 1 to 1_Stitch Length Control- 12Buttonhole Control - FSpecial Stitch Modifier- Red DotBottonhole FootZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate
.
.
Place the fabric, with the buttonholemarked, under the buttonhole foot.Without lowering the foot, let theneedle pierce the fabric at thebeginning of the buttonhole. Pull thefoot all the way forward so that theindex mark (A) is aligned with thegraduation (B). Lower the foot.(Reproduction of the identical sizebuttonholes is facilitated with the aid
of the graduations cn the left side ofthe buttonhole foot. These gradua- :tions are 1/8" apart. Graduations actas reference mark.)
W_th the buttonhole control at F,stitch forward until you approach thefront marking of your buttonhole.
••: • ••••••i••_••i•••!•i_i:_••_•i:i•!•:•iii:••'••:!•_:•!_i:••!_••:•_
31
3. Turn the control to "R" stitching_ back to the beginning of the button-
hole. _The speed with which thecontrol is turned determines thenumber of stitches at the end of thebuttonhole_ The slowerthe control isturned while sewing, the morestitches foimed. .......
4. Turn the control back to F to finishbuttonhole.
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you pian to use. Try thebuttonhole with the button you will use.
Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissuepaper or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used.
For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly and use a wider stitchwidth setting.
32
BUTTONHOLE MAKING
Always make a practice buttonholeon a scrap of fabric you plan to use.Try the buttonhole with the button youwill use.
Use an interfacing between the layersof fabric - tissue paper can be usedand torn away after the stitching.
For heavier weight fabrics, loosen yourtop tension slightly and use a widerstitch w{dth setting.
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - w_-_-=.-Stitch Width Control - 1 to 1Stitch Length Control- 0Special Stitch Modifier- Red DotFeedDogs- DownButtonhole Foot or Satin Stitch FootZigzag Needle Plate or Hole
1. Turn hand wheel so needle is down.
Remove base front cover by pushingrelease button. Open shuttle cover.Insert buttonhoel adapter minuscover plate with pinion gear.Insert cover plate at 45 degree angle.Snap into place,
2. Screv_ guide pin into the guidepin hole on the base directly behind
the needle plate. Pull guide plateforward as in Fig. 2.
3. Insert a template into the slot oftemplate holder by lifting thebottom portion of the TemplateHolder. Select the proper sizebuttonhole by turning the TemplateAdvance Knob.
33
_4.. . , , ,
•Fig. 5
4. Pull guide plate all the way forwardso that guide pin is at S. This willenable you to start at one end ofthe buttonhole. Drop guide plateinto place over gear on cover plate.
o Pick up bobbin thread throughguide plate by turning hand wheeland drawing thread to back ofmachine. Place fabric between
presser foot and guide plate. Lineup edge of fabric with markedindentation on guide. See Fig, 4.If you wish all buttonholes to be3/4 inch from edge of garment,line up fabric with 3/4 inch mark-ing each time you start sewing abuttonhole.
34
BLIND HEMMING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - WWWStitch Width Control - 2 to 3Stitch Length Control - 12 to 8Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot or Edgestitcher ifavailable
Zigzag Needle Plate
1. Finish edge of hem anyway youdesire. Turn up hem appropriatewidth. (Fig, 1)
2. Fold garment away from hemleaving 1/8" of hem edge extend-ing: (Fig. 2)
3. Place garment under presser foot in
such a manner that straight stitcheswill be sewft on extended edge,The zigzag stitch should just catchthe fold of the garment, (Fig, 3)
4. Press both sides of the finishedhem. The right side of the garmentwill show only the blind stitches.(Fig. 4)
35
°4 o
SATIN STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial . w_l_=Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Stitch Length Control - Red ZoneSpecial Stitch Modifier - Red DotSatin Stitch Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
Closely spaced zigzag stitches are ca|led satin stitches. This is an attractivestitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole making.
Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen thetension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looserthe tension should be.
If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissuepaper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material willbe eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side ofthe fabric.
As with all special stitches, it is best to make a sample design on your fabricbefore starting the design on the garment.
APPLIQUEING
SETTINGS
Same as with Satin Stitching
Select an applique design to be appliedto your garment and baste it in place.Satin stitch around the raw edge ofthe applique completely covering theedge. You may want to do this witha contrasting cOlor of thread or selfcolor.
36
ZIPPER APPLICATION
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - w_l_..=-Stitch Width Control - Red DotStitch Length Control - 12 to 10Special Stitch Modifier - Red DotZipper FootStraight Stitch Needle Plate
REGULAR ZIPPER
The foot is adjustable for use on theright or left side of the needle whensewing the regular type of zipper.Adjust the foot so the needle clearsthe side notch on the foot. See Fig. 1.
Carefully follow directions given onthe zipper package.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Adjust the foot sothe needle is sewingthroughthe center hole of the foot andonegroove of the foot is riding on theteeth of the zipper.See Fig. 2. Follow the zipper manu-facturer's instructions.
After zipper_ has been inserted, finishsewing seam by shifting foot to sideposition sewing through side notch.
CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cordingfor slipcovers etc. Cover a cord witha strip of bias fabric and sew as shownin Fig. 3.
37
38
MENDING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial -.V_._Stitch Width Control - 4
Stitch Length Control - Red ZoneSpecial Stitch Modifier - Red DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate
To repair a straight or three-corneredtear, position the tear under the needlein such a waythat the stitching catchesboth sides of the tear. When mendinga three-cornered tear, stitch from eachend to the center. It is well to use apiece of fabric under the tear for re-inforcement.
DARNING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial. ww_[]_.-_Stitch Width Control - Red Dot
Special Stitch Modifier Red Dot
Feed Dogs -DownNo Presser Foot
Remove presser foot, stretch fabric be-tween embroidery hoops with holecentered. Draw the bobbin thread upthrough the fabric by holding the topthread and taking one stitch at the spotwhere you wish to start darning.Lowering the presser bar, start sewingat a slow to medium speed. Move thefabric back and forth with _a steadyrhythm to cover the darning area.When it is covered, turn the fabric andsew another layer of stitching acrossthe first layer of stitching.
BUTTON SEWING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - ww_=-._Feed Dogs - DownZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate
1. Align two holes of button with slotof presser foot and lower foot tohold the button securely.
2, Turn hand wheel manually untilneedle point is just above button,
3. Adjust stitch width control soneedle will enter left hole of thebutton.
4, Turn hand wheel again by hand soneedle enters second hole. Re-
adjust stitch width if necessary,Stitch a number of times.
5. Finish sewing with an extra twoinches of thread remaining; Drawthese threads to reverse side of
garment and tie.
BAR TACKING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - v,w_]:-=.-Stitch Width Control - 2 to 4Stitch Length Control - Red ZoneSpecial Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
This stitch is similar to a very shortsatin stitch and is used to reinforcepoints of strain such as corners of
pockets and straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
39
FREE-ARM SEWING (Free-arm type only)
This sewing machine can be used likea flat bed machine, but easily convertsto free arm machine by removing thebase.
The free arm enables you to sewtubular types of pieces more easily.Just slip the sleeve or pants leg onthe free arm as shown above.
You will find many uses for this freearm feature such as:
1. Mend elbows and knees of gar-ments more' easily.
2. Sew in sleeves more easily. Thisis especially true when sewingsmaller garments.
3. Applique, embroider or hem aroundedges of cuffs or pants legs.
4. Sewing in elastic casings in skirtsor pants at the waistline.
4O
3. CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS WHAT TO DO
J:_
m_
• _i _ • ii _z _ _ !ii , _ _i _ i¸ _ i I _
CARING FOR THE MACH NE ................................................................................................................................................
CLEANING AND OILING
Fig. 1 Cleaning the feed dogs with abrush.
To insure the best possible operationof your machine, it is necessary tokeep the essential parts clean at alltimes. Using a small brush, removethe lint that accumulates in the shuttlearea and around the feed dogs.
Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly
To
1.
,
.
.
Clean the Shuttle Area:
This area must be kept free of dust,lint and occasional tangled thread.Raise the needle bar to its highestpoint and remove the bobbin case.
Push levers of shuttle race asideand lift shuttle race cover and shut-tle out.
Clean the shuttle race with smallbrush,
Put a drop of oil on the center pinof the shuttle and shuttle race.
(see arrows)
To
1.
.
=
Replace Shuttle Assembly-
Position shuttlerace as illUStrated so
that shuttle driver is forming halfmoon on the left side of themachine.
Hold shuttle by center pin andposition shuttle so as to form a halfmoon on the right side, Pointedhook will be on the bottom.
Place shuttle race cover into placeover shuttle assembly.
Fig. 1
43
OILING UNDER ARM COVER PLATE
Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head.To remove cover plate, insert a screw driver into the spacing between armcasting and top cover plate and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.
44
OILING UNDERSIDE (Free_armtype)
Tilt maqhine head back and remove bottom cover to oil points indicated onunderside of machine. To remove bottom cover, remove screws (A), (B),(C), (D) and (E) as shown below.
/it =
OILING UNDERSIDE (Flat-bed type)
Tilt machine head back to oil points indicated on underside of machine.
<
OILING IN FACE cOVERPLATE
Swing hinged face cover plateopen and oil points indicatedin illustration.
46
PART LIST
47
PARTS LIST
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. orSimpsons- Sears Limited store or service center.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWINGINFORMATION :
1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
Ref. No. Part No. Description
12
3456789
101112131415161718192021222324
252627282930313233
473829538296362106510
*6862193982862273
*6550"6551*6552*6553*6554*674640390687068736757
40396371743717542063420644206241040438406757
41662 Buttonhole35346 Buttonhole35347 Buttonhole
ShuttleNeedle plate insert...Zigzag stitchNeedle plate insert...Straight stitchMulti purpose needle plateBobbin caseBobbin box with 10 bobbinsBobbin winder rubber ringThread spool pinNylon discNo. 9 needlesNo. 11 needlesNo. 14 needlesNo. 16 needlesNo. 18 "needlesQ NEEDLESStandard zigzag footSatin stitch footStraight stitch footZipper footStandard zigzag footSatin stitch footStraight stitch footStandard zigzag foot
, Satin stitch footStraight stitch footButtonhole footButtonhole guide footZipper foot
guide platetemplate (No. 1)template (No. 2)
482744053036214686467976830
4167041669*6890
Buttonhole adapterButtonhole cover plateButtonhole cover plateNeedle threaderLight bulbButtonhole openerLarge screw driverSmall screw driverOil/oiler
48
SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, should aneed ever' exist for repair parts or service, simply contact anySears Service Center and most Seam, Roebuck and Co. orSimpsons-Seam Limited Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinentfactswhen you call or visit.
The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown onyour nomenclature plate on the right side of your SewingMachine. See page 3 for location.
:;_ WHEN ORDERING REPAIRiili; FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
l':ii.
PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE
*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will beelectronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts DistributionCenter for handling.
iiiiii_iii
_?iiiSEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A. and
i SlMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
$ - 158 Part No. 59982(_)
