Prepared by: Kai Wei Ong 1

14th Mongolia Sunrise to Sunset (MS2S) Race Report by Kai Wei

Started in 1999, Mongolia Sunrise to Sunset (MS2S) is an annual event that allows runners to experience some of the most spectacular and pristine trail running in the world. It is held at the crystal clear Hovsgol Lake (Khovsgol) National Park. The lake is located on the northern border of Mongolia (adjacent to Russian Siberia) and 700km northwest of Ulaanbataar (UB).

The crystal clear Hovsgol Lake

There were about 70 people from different nationalities gathered for this year 14th MS2S. Participants can choose to complete a 42km or 100km distance. For this year, majority of participants are doing the 100km. One thing special about MS2S is that for those doing the 100km, as long they can finish the marathon distance (which is tough, as there are two peaks !!!), they will be declared as a 42km finisher even they cannot finish the whole 100km course. In other words, there will be no DNF. Where the hell can you find it in other ultra-distance based races? It is very encouraging, especially for those doing their first ultra-trail running. It will give them a good trail racing experience on undulating terrain and altitude. As for me, this is my first oversea race cum holiday and I wanted something special. The MS2S breathtaking scenery, mossy forest, stunning wild flowers, horse trails, mountains and wide open spaces is no question, one of the most beautiful and extraordinary 100km event to offer.

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MS2S Elevation Chart (first 42km is tough!!!)

I went to Mongolia on 26th July and stayed at UB for two nights and travelled to Toilgot (the event base camp) on 28th July with some of the participants by airplane to Moron, followed by a “challenging” 3 and half hours connection by jeeps or Russian vans. When I reached Toilgot, it was already 11pm, has a quick dinner, brushed my teeth and went to bed in my cozy Gers (i.e. the Mongolian yurts). It was a three bed Ger shared with Ben and Dale. Both of them were doing their first 100km.

Domestic Flight from UB to Moron

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Russian Van

The 3 Beds Mongolian Ger I stayed, which came with a centrally fitted metal stove.

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My Cozy Bed ☺

My concerns for this event are the high altitude (up to 2300m) and the temperate climate that range from hot, sun-burning days to cold morning/night. In addition, winds are strong and humidity low, resulting in rapid dehydration without you noticing it. As such, I decided to do some work out (running, hiking, biking) on Sunday and Monday for acclimatization, and have a good rest on Tuesday before the race, i.e. 1st August.

On Sunday, I woke up at 4.30am for my run. However, as it is freezing, I delayed my run till 6.00am, where the temperature is more tolerable. At first I thought that my relative slow pace for my easy run was due to 3 days of no running. However, when I started to increase my speed, my breath becomes shallow and rapid, and I realised that the altitude had some impact. In the early afternoon, I joined Ben, Lieu and his wife, Kim (both from Singapore) to recce the Northern Route. On our way, we met Jennifer and Peter. We managed to get to the first aid station, i.e. is Chichee at 12km. I got too excited (as it is the first time I run up mountain!!!) and proceeded to run up to the Chichee pass. However, I stopped at 2100m altitude so as to come back to the camp for the 5.30pm briefing. Probably, we went too far. A nice “short recce” ended up lasting 5 hours!!! These runs were important as it determined my pace and finalized my attire for the race. For recovery, together with Ben, we ate our lunch standing at the icy lake. The hydrostatic pressure from standing in a lake was an effective approach of reducing muscle soreness – One of the special treats in MS2S. It was almost as good as taking a true ice bath.

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Chichee Pass

Race Briefing by the Organizers

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On Monday afternoon, I went mountain biking with Ben to recce the southern route. We biked until Jankhai Aid Station (i.e. 55/88km for the 100km race) and turned back. This section is flat and it was also the return route for the 100km race. The organizers told us that we were the last batch running this 12/13km section as this section will be changed for the next MS2S. I spent the next one and half days lazing around, mingled with other participants and did my medical check-ups. We were given an impressive presentation about Mongolia by Marc, a very experience veteran ultra-runner on Monday evening, and also a traditional Mongolian music performance on Tuesday evening. As the race is on Wednesday, everyone went back to their Gers to prepare their race gears after the performance. By 9.30pm, the camp is already deserted.

Traditional Mongolian Music Performance

On Wednesday, the race started at 4.30am and ended at 1030pm. I ran the first 12km of the course at a comfortable pace. When I reached the Chichee Aid Station, I was informed that I was the 6th participant. As I did not need anything, I headed towards for the first and highest climb, i.e. the Chichee Pass at 17km/altitude 2300m. I always see running hills as a challenge and I really like the feeling when reached the summit. As such, instantly I galvanized to start my climbed. During the climbed, I kept reminded myself not to look to the top too often, but stayed positive, focused and made steady gradual progress with short stride. Short stride works on hills as it keep you close to the surface, pushing against it. I told myself, just stopped or walked to enjoy the breathtaking scenery if tried. On my way to the summit, I overtook two Mongolians runners, who were doing 42km and 100km respectively. This motivated

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me to move on. On reaching the summit, the views offered to me were simply stunning that could not be expressed by words. When I reached the summit, an old Mongolian horseman directed me down towards Check-Point 2, i.e. the Ongolog Aid station (23.5km). This part of the course was not that tough as it was mostly down slope, but the terrain was quite technical as it required crossing of the stony dried river beds and some places were no track at all. At the Ongolog Aid station, I filled up my water bottle with my first serving of endurance fuel (i.e. Hammer Perpetuem) and proceeded towards the Khirvesteg Pass at 31km/altitude 2100m. Following behind me closely was Frank. The slope was very steep and the terrain made running not possible. As such, for this section, I had to walk up and down. It was not an easy walk either as I had to negotiate my way through thick undergrowth and over fallen trees. I was overtaken by Frank at this section. He was fast on down hills and I lost sighted of him after the down hills section.

I heard that some runners got lose at this section of the course. Luckily, I managed to spot all the markers and reached the Toilogt Aid Station (i.e. the base camp, 1st drop-off bag point, the Marathon finish point and 8 hours cut-off point for the 100km) with no serious problems apart from some soreness on my quads due to the steep down hills running. On my way back to Toilogt, I met Shagdar, the 3rd position Mongolian runner. He just exited the Toilogt Aid Station and was on his way to the Jankhai Aid Station. At the Toilogt Aid Station, I met Frank and he was ready to take off. I stayed at the Toilogt Aid Station for around 15 minutes to refill my 2nd serving of Perpetuem, changed the bandage for the cut on my right toe (I got the cut when walking barefoot in my Ger on my first day!!!) and also changed my socks and shoes.

As mentioned earlier, the section from Toilogt to the Jankhai Aid Station is flat and this was my way back also. From the Jankhai Aid Station, I was leaded by a horseman towards the 3rd climb, i.e. the Jankhai Pass (59km). Although, the slope is not as steep as the first two passes, but the terrain was more technical, in addition running under strong sunlight. When I reached the Jankhai Pass, I made one clockwise circumambulation around the local carin, called ovoo in Mongolia. From the Jankhai Pass to the Uren Aid Station (65km, 12 hours cut-off point) and to Modot Bulan aid Station (76km, 2nd drop-off point and 14 hours cut-off point), I ran alone and I almost lost my ways at some places. However, I managed to track back with help of locals. They were very helpful and guided me to the next visible course markings. At the Modot Bulan Aid Station, I refilled my 3rd serving of Perpetuem. From the Modot Bulan Aid Station back to the Jankhai Aid Station, the trail began to get really hilly and the forest tracks were tough as there were lot of thick tree roots. My quads started to get painful when running down hills and I have to use a run/walk approach to complete this section. When I got closer to the lake, I knew I was reaching the Jankhai Aid Station (88km) and I picked up my pace. At the Jankhai Aid Station, I refilled my 4th serving of Perpetuem and headed towards Toilogt camp. For the last 12km, I ran at a strong pace and managed to overtake Frank at the last 5km to come in 4th before Sunset.

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During the race, one of the wonderful things that motivated me was sharing the trail with horses, yaks and goats that wandered freely. On some occasions, I was running side by side with horses and it really made me felt good. I was glad that I could finish this race safely and without any problems (no black toes, cramping, abrasions, etc.), apart from some soreness on my quads. As for nutrition, throughout the race, I did not take solid foods, I consumed 1.5 litre of water (excluding the water for Perpetuem), 5 packs of non-caffeinate gels, 7 capsules of Endurolytes and 3 and half serving of Perpetuem.

Generally, the race was very well organized with great support from the local Mongolian community at the aid stations, to provide medical services, foods and assistance for lost runners. In addition, well-balance meals were provided throughout our stays at the base camp. MS2S not only offered challenging competition but also an excellent place for holiday. Readers can refer to http://www.ultramongolia.com/ for more information about the races and http://www.facebook.com/MongoliaSunriseToSunset for nice photos took by Darko.