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Etymology & Terminology

• Etymology is the study of the history of words and how their form and meaning have changed over time.

• Terminology is a system of words used to name things in a particular discipline language

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Fashion

• It can be termed as a style or a particular look which is reflection of the social, economical, political & environmental/climatic forces of any given time/period.

• Fashion change in the western world is generally considered to have begun in the middle ages and although is visible in many different kinds of material goods, it is particularly pronounced in & rapid in apparel.

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STYLE Style is any particular characteristic or look in apparel or

accessories. Elements that define a style include line, silhouette & details. Style can be interpreted in 3 ways:- • Designers interpret fashion ideas into new styles & offer them

to public. The manufacturer assigns a style number to each new design which is used to identify it throughout the production, marketing & retailing.

• Designs having same characteristic such as a blazer style jacket, an empire line dress. A style may come & go in fashion but a style always remains that style whether it is in fashion or not ex:- polo shirt style will always be in fashion yet it will always have variations every season.

• A person can have a style by wearing fashionable clothes particularly suited to them or a designer may become known for a certain “style” or look

Bubble Style

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STYLE

• “To have a style”, meaning to have certain flair that is specific & individual

• manner: how something is done or how it happens; "her dignified manner"; "his rapid manner of talking";

• a particular kind (as to appearance); "this style of shoe is in demand"

Fusion Style

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FASHION TREND

• Direction in which styles, colors, fabrics and designs are tending to change. Political events, films, personalities, drams, social and sports events often influence fashion trends

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CLASSIC

• Apparel made in a style that continues to be fashionable over a long period of time, and that may return as high fashion at regular intervals.

• When revived, classic fashions retain the basic line of the original style, but are sometimes altered in minor details

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FAD

• Short-lived fashion that becomes suddenly extremely popular, remains for a short period of time, and fades quickly

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CONSUMER

Is a person who buys and uses the merchandise (product which can be apparel or non apparel) and are the primary influence on the market.

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Silhouette • Contour or outline as shown in a solid

black background on white background. • Formerly a term widely used to indicate

trend in length & general outline of garment for the coming season.

• Named after a French author and statesmen “Etienine de Silhouette, who made portraits in black with no background

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COSTUME

The term costume can refer to

wardrobe or dress of a certain period in history, people or class

Costume may also refer to the artistic arrangement of accessories in a picture, statue or play, appropriate to the time, place, or other circumstances represented or described to a particular style of clothing worn to portray a type of character at a social event such as a masquerade, a fancy dress party or in an artistic theatrical performance.

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Costume used in yakshagana-

a theater art from India.

A Kid wearing a Bee costume

Costumed performers in

Bristol Renaissance Faire.

Santa

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CLOTHES

It is a collective term for all items of apparel worn by men, women & children

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READY-TO-WEAR (RTW)

Apparel that is designed, marketed, and sold in standard sizes and is mass-

produced. Describing apparel that does not need any tailoring (example hemming) before it can be worn off-the-rack

In French it is called prêt-à-porter & UK off the rack or "off-the-peg" in casual use)

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A patiala, ready

to

wear salwar

ready to wear dresses

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Pret-a-porter (pret-ah–por-tay)

• French term for ready-to-wear clothes. Many Haute couture designers produce special dress, less expensive pret-a-porter lines of clothing in addition to their custom-made-lines. French, “ready to be carried away”

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ITEMS

It is a specialized category of apparel or accessories eg: logo printed t-shirt, baseball caps

And an Item house is a contractor that makes these products

14 Grocery items Apparel item Non Apparel item

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Co-ordinates & Separates

• Co-ordinate is designed to mix and match interchangeably and is sold as a package to the retailer

• Separates do not show an obvious relationship and are

sold individually

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SOFT GOODS

Are goods that are used up when used once, or that have a short & specific

lifespan & wear & tear of the merchandise is quicker

Fashion and Textile merchandise is a soft good (e.g. dresses, lingerie, coats, household textiles) as contrasted with hard goods (home appliances, hardware or furniture)

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Health care &

beauty products

Furnishings

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Toile (twal) • A French word for cotton or linen cloth in plain or

simple twill weave . Typically printed in monotone color on an off-white or white background & has fine line printed design

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Woven • A woven is a cloth formed by weaving. It only stretches in

the bias directions (between the warp and weft directions), unless the threads are elastic. Woven cloth usually frays at the edges, unless measures are taken to counter this, such as the use of pinking shears or hemming.

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Blends Yarns & Fabrics

• Yarns that are composed of two or more fibers mixed together then spun to form one yarn e.g. cotton fibers & polyester fibers

• When such a yarn is used to make fabric, the fabric possesses the qualities of both the fibers

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Weight & Hand

• Weight & Hand dictate the silhouette of the garment.

• Weight is the heaviness or lightness, thinness or

thickness of the fabric.

• Hand is the tactile quality the feel body and fall of the

fabric

Performance Fabrics – fabric made for a variety of end

use applications which provide functional qualities such as

moisture management, UV Protection, anti-microbial,

thermo regulation & wind water resistance

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Knits • Process of making a fabric, or an item of apparel, by the inter-lacing of

loops either by machined or hand.

• A cross wise row of loops is called a cross, while a vertical row is called wale.

• A great variety of stitches and yarns can be used to give textured effects and surface interest

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Trimming • Trim or trimming in clothing and home decorating is applied ornament, such as

gimp, passementerie, ribbon, ruffles, or, as a verb, to apply such ornament. It is used to enhance the surface ornamentation of the garment

• Before the industrial revolution, all trims were made and applied by hand, thus

making heavily trimmed furnishings and garments expensive and high-status. Machine-woven trims and sewing machines put these dense trimmings within the reach of even modest dressmakers and home sewers, and an abundance of trimming is a characteristic of mid-Victorian fashion . As a predictable reaction, high fashion came to emphasize exquisiteness of cut and construction over denseness of trimming, and applied trim became a signifier of mass-produced clothing by the 1930.

The iconic braid and gold button trim of the Chanel suit are a notable survival of trim in high fashion.

• In home decorating, the 1980s and 1990s saw a fashion for dense, elaborately layered trimmings on upholstered furniture and drapery.

• Today, most trimmings are commercially manufactured. is known for elaborate trim for home furnishings, and Wrights is a leading manufacturer of trim for home sewing and crafts.

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Details – Are features which enhance the look of the

garment like Embroideries, placket enhancements, button

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MOTIFS

• In creative work:

• Motif (narrative), any recurring element in a story that has symbolic significance

• Motif (textile arts), a recurring element or fragment that, when joined together, creates a larger work

• Motif (visual arts), a repeating theme or pattern

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Victorian motifs

African motifs

Celtic Motif

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REPEAT Repeat is the “ Repetition” of floral or geometric print in a fabric design.

And Repetition is use of same form again and again

Block Repeat Half Drop Repeat All Over Repeat

Ogee Plaid

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Pattern • Pattern is an underlying structure that organizes surfaces

or structures in a consistent, regular manner. Pattern can be described as a repeating unit of shape or form, but it can also be thought of as the "skeleton" that organizes the parts of a composition.

Flowing Branching Spiral

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Couture (Koo-ture) • French term for business in which original apparel designs

are created by designers & the items are manufactured in the design house using exceptionally fine sewing & tailoring and expensive fabrics

christian dior couture 2008 Givenchy Spring 2008 Couture

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Haute Couture (oat koo-toor)

• Haute couture (French for "high sewing" or "high dressmaking") refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques

• Firms that create model that may be sold to private customers or other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to reproduce other designs

• Designers show at least 2 collections a year of original designs to the public

• An original design is not the only one of its kind, but mean only that the garment was designed and made in the atelier of the designer

• As currently used in United States and in the fashion press, refers to the latest and most advanced fashions; high fashion

30 Valentino Haute Couture Paris

christian-dior-haute-couture

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Avant Grade (ah-vant gard)

• French term commonly used in English meaning new, unconventional, ahead of its time.

• Used as an adjective to describe apparel that may be provocative or startling

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Atelier de couture

• Work rooms in which Parisian haute couture designers and their work men produce their collections

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High- Fashion

• Apparel of advanced design available from innovative designer and/or firms. It is usually more expensive & is a trend-setting fashion.

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Bridge Fashion • A line at the upper end of the apparel price range

that is made with fewer details and less expensive fabrics than designer clothing

Bec & Bridge Fashion Show At Rosemount Australian Fashion Week

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Knock-0ff • An item of apparel copied from a more expensive item

and generally manufactured from low-priced components so it can sell at a lower price. Compare with LINE-For-LINE COPY and PIRACY

Knock off Nike Shoes

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Boutiques (boo-teek)

• Small shop selling a variety of merchandise including dresses, jewellery, accessories, antiques, or object d’art.

• Ever since Parisian designer Lucien Lelong opened his boutique de la mansion couture in 1929, haute couture designers have taken up the practice of selling variety of designer label merchandise in boutiques.

• The term has been applied to small shops everywhere since the 1950’s; and now such shops are often contained within large department stores

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Boutiques

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Collection & Line The act of gathering several styles or garments which are grouped

together or considered as a whole is called a collection

• Term used by couture, ready to wear, or manufacturers designers for clothing and accessories offered to customers for a specific season. Originally used for high-priced couture clothing. Also called “Line”

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FASHION FORECASTING Fashion forecasting is the prediction of the colors and style of apparel and

accessories which are new directions in fashion that the majority of people would like to buy at a given time and place. It is anticipating the customers wants & needs by Designers, Merchandisers & Buyers.

It needs to be done well in advance i.e minimum of 2 seasons away so as to produce fresh stocks on time & to keep the business going.

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INCLUDES FOLLOWING ACTIVITIES :-

• Studying market conditions – how the consumers buying behavior is influenced by society, economics, technology & the environment

• Noting the lifestyles of the customers

• Past data analysis

• Observing “street fashion” & what celebrities are wearing

• Keeping up with current events, media, arts & the mood of the public

• Surveying Fashion publications, catalogs, magazines & fashion websites

• Evaluating popular designer collections

• Feedback from customers

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DRAPING Is a procedure of creating fashion designs by manipulating, pinning &

cutting muslin or other fabric over a dress form so as to alter the fall of the fabric in different positions.

In this technique, the drapes garment is then used to create a pattern from which garment can be made

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PATTERN MAKING

Patternmaking is the art of designing patterns with specific body measurements with hand on paper or cardboard before

A pattern is an original garment from

which other garments of a similar style are copied, or the paper or cardboard templates from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling (sometimes called paper patterns).

Worked across all clothing categories it is an

integral part of fashion design & clothing industry.

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e.g: Different parts of a trouser pattern

Coat pattern

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GRADING

Grading means scaling i.e the act of arranging in a graduated series

Pattern grading means creating a set of pattern pieces for each of the sizes listed on the garment specification sheet for a style.

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CAD-CAM-CIM

• Computer-aided design/manufacturing (CAD)- The linking of computer systems for creating designs with those for pattern creations, grading & marker in ordered to coordinate steps in production

• Computer-aided manufacturing (CAM)- Computer aided systems that Grade and make Markers Electronically. They may also have the capability to do computer controlled cutting, use lasers for specialized cutting & employ robotics in manufacturing

• Computer integrated manufacturing – The production of a finished product integrated by integrating various computer aided process (CAD,CAM) that link information & equipment throughout the manufacturing process

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RETAILER

Is an individual or firm that sells merchandise to the consumers.

These items are purchased from the manufacturer or wholesaler and sold to the end user at a marked up price.

In the fashion industry, that merchandise would be apparel and related products.

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VISUAL MERCHANDISING (VM) (VM) is the activity of promoting the sale of goods,

especially by their presentation in retail outlet. It is the art of presentation, which puts the merchandise in focus.

It has become an important element in retailing

as it educates the customers, creates desire and finally augments the selling process.

Enables long lasting impact and recall value.

Setting the company apart in an exclusive position.

drawing the attention of the customer to enable him to take purchase decision within shortest possible time, and thus augmenting the selling process.

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ELEMENTS USED IN VM

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This includes combining product,

environment, and space into a stimulating

and engaging display to encourage the

sale of a product or service.

Many elements can be used by

visual merchandisers in creating displays,

including , color, lighting, space, product

information, sensory and interactive

installations. inputs such as smell, touch,

and sound as well as technologies such as

digital displays

educating the customers about the product/service in an effective and creative way.

COLOR

THEME

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STYLIST A stylist is person who picks out the clothing or can select and either shop or borrow the clothing

items which in turn is used to dress their client e.g. it could be worn by models in photo shoots, for commercial print catalogue, television appearances, music videos, concert performances, and any public appearances made by celebrities, models or other celebrities and public figures.

They often consult with the client, photographer/director, hair stylist and makeup artist to put together the particular look or theme for the specific project. They are suppose to be an expert in Style, Trend, Fashion & Shopping

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MERCHANDISER

Merchandiser is a person responsible for ensuring that right product appear in the right store at the right time and in the right quantities.

Role of Sourcing Merchandiser: This involves procurement of all raw materials required to make a product Role of Production Merchandiser This involves ensuring that the work flow & time chart for the production is

followed; at times Quality control may also be handled by the production merchandiser

Role of a Retail Merchandiser :- This involves working closely with the buying teams to accurately forecast trends,

plan stock levels and monitor performance, maximize profits and manage the performance of the ranges.

They also decide on the quantity & oversee the delivery and distribution of the stock and deal with problems with suppliers as they arise.

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Balance

• Balance is the concept of visual equilibrium, and relates to our physical sense of balance. It is a reconciliation of opposing forces in a composition that results in visual stability. Most successful compositions achieve balance in one of two ways: symmetrically or asymmetrically.

• Symmetrical balance can be described as having equal "weight" on equal sides of a centrally placed fulcrum. It may also be referred to as formal balance

• Asymmetrical balance, also called informal balance, is more complex and difficult to envisage. It involves placement of objects in a way that will allow objects of varying visual weight to balance one another around a fulcrum point.

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Proportion • Proportion refers to the relative

size and scale of the various elements in a design. The issue is the relationship between objects, or parts, of a whole. This means that it is necessary to discuss proportion in terms of the context or standard used to determine proportions.

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Rhythm • Rhythm can be described as timed movement through space; an easy, connected

path along which the eye follows a regular arrangement of motifs. The presence of rhythm creates predictability and order in a composition.

Visual rhythm may be best understood by relating it to rhythm in sound.

• Linear rhythm refers to the characteristic flow of the individual line

• Repetition involves the use of patterning to achieve timed movement and a visual "beat". This repetition may be a clear repetition of elements in a composition, or it may be a more subtle kind of repetition that can be observed in the underlying structure of the image.

• Alternation is a specific instance of patterning in which a sequence of repeating motifs are presented in turn; (short/long; fat/thin; round/square; dark/light).

• Gradation employs a series of motifs patterned to relate to one another through a regular progression of steps. This may be a gradation of shape or color. Some shape gradations may in fact create a sequence of events, not unlike a series of images in a comic strip.

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Hue • Hue is the term for the pure spectrum colors commonly referred to by

the "color names" - red, orange, yellow, blue, green violet - which appear in the hue circle or rainbow. Theoretically all hues can be mixed from three basic hues, known as primaries. When pigment primaries are all mixed together, the theoretical result is black; Therefore pigment mixture is sometimes referred to as subtractive mixture.

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Value • Value is defined as the relative lightness or darkness of a

color. It is an important tool for the designer/artist, in the way that it defines form and creates spatial illusions. Contrast of value separates objects in space, while gradation of value suggests mass and contour of a contiguous surface

Intensity is Defined as the relative brightness or dullness of a color

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Texture • Texture is the quality of an object which we sense through

touch. It exists as a literal surface we can feel, but also as a surface we can see, and imagine the sensation might have if we felt it. Texture can also be portrayed in an image, suggested to the eye which can refer to our memories of surfaces we have touched. So a texture can be imaginary.

Bristle, Hard & Rough

Smooth, Cold & Hard