The Best of Israel,Jordan & Sinai

A journey to Israel is a journey to a place where the past and present call out to trav-elers in astonishing ways. There are layers of meaning everywhere you turn in thisintense land, and why not? This land and its history lie at the very center of the con-sciousness of Western civilization.

Israel is amazingly dramatic and diverse, the more so when you realize the entirecountry is the size of New Jersey. When you find yourself in the silent, hauntingdesertscape near the Dead Sea, spotting ibexes on sheer cliffs that are dotted with caveslike those in which the Dead Sea Scrolls lay hidden for more than 18 centuries, it canbe hard to believe that less than 60 minutes away is the 19th-century East Europeanghetto world of Jerusalem’s orthodox Mea Shearim quarter. A few blocks away fromMea Shearim you’ll find the labyrinthine medieval Arab bazaars of the Old City, withancient church bells and calls to prayer from the city’s minarets punctuating your wan-derings. Hop into a sherut (shared taxi) to Tel Aviv on downtown Jerusalem’s JaffaRoad, and in less than an hour you’re in a world of white skyscrapers, surfboards, andbikinis on the beach, with the Mediterranean lapping at your feet. Two hours to thenorth, and you can be exploring ruined Crusader castles in the green forests of theGalilee mountains.

As a visitor and long-term resident, I have had the opportunity to see Israel from anumber of different perspectives. Thirty-five years ago, the country was an austere,no-frills society—Israelis lived with few luxuries, and the Spartan life was part of thenational ideology. Today, Israeli society is frenetically inventive, the country’s economyis booming, the standard of living has skyrocketed, and many surveys rank Israel’sper capita income among the top 20 in the world. Israel is becoming a nation with alively sense of style and a taste for the good life. Luxury and better-quality hotel accom-modations and resorts have popped up all over the country, and visitors will find aninteresting array of fine restaurants and shopping opportunities geared to Israeli societyat large rather than to visitors. With the Israeli-Jordanian and Israeli-Egyptian peacetreaties, a journey to Israel can also easily include an excursion to the fabulous ancientNabatean city of Petra in Jordan, or a diving or snorkeling odyssey off the Sinai Penin-sula. But amid Israel’s busy swirl of exoticism, ancient sites, shopping malls, and crowdedhighways, you can still find young, idealistic kibbutzim and communities in theNegev, where new immigrants and old-timers are reclaiming the land from the desertas they learn how to live on it, appreciate its wonders, and make it truly their own.

This book will help direct you, as an independent traveler, to some of the best andmost authentic experiences Israel has to offer. Israel is an easy country to explore andget close to if you know the ropes. I hope to lead you to experiences that will be bothpersonal and rewarding.

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1 The Best Travel Experiences• Visiting the Dome of the Rock and

the Temple Mount (Jerusalem):Built by the early Islamic rulers ofJerusalem in A.D. 691 on the site ofthe Temple of Solomon, the Dome ofthe Rock is one of the most beautifulstructures ever created. It is the crownupon a 4,000-year tradition of West-ern monotheistic belief. One canspend hours on the Temple Mountsoaking up the atmosphere and thedazzling views. You might first visitthe Temple Mount on a tour, butcome back and experience the powerof this extraordinary place on yourown. See p. 160.

• Journeying into the Past at MeaShearim: Mea Shearim is the Has-sidic Jewish quarter of Jerusalem, littlemore than a century old, but in thedress and customs of its inhabitants,and in its tangle of courtyards andalleyways, it is a miraculously surviv-ing fragment of the world of EasternEuropean Jewry that disappeared for-ever into the Holocaust. A visitor toMea Shearim may feel like a dreamerwandering the past. Many visitorswill revere the strict discipline andreligious devotion evident in MeaShearim; others will be troubled by itsmany constraints. But a walk throughthese streets will give you insight intothe powerful traditions that continueto make Israel unique. See p. 191.

• An Evening Stroll through OldJaffa: The beautifully restored Cas-bah of Old Jaffa is probably the mostromantic urban spot in the country,filled with galleries, shops, cafes,restaurants, and vistas of minaretsand Crusader ruins set against thesunset and the sea. See p. 264.

• Exploring the Eastern Shore of theSea of Galilee: The Sea of Galilee isIsrael’s greatest natural treasure, and

its lyrical shores were the birthplaceof Christianity. It is also almostmiraculous in its loveliness—a sap-phire/turquoise freshwater lake sur-rounded by the mountains of theGalilee and the Golan. The easternshore is less developed and gives youa better chance to feel the lake’spoetry. There are eucalyptus-shadedbeaches where you can have a lateafternoon swim and picnic and watchthe silver and lavender twilightdescend behind the mountains on thewestern shore of the lake, whichsparkles with the lights of farm settle-ments and kibbutzim. See chapter 9.

• Freewheeling in the Galilee: This isthe place to rent a car for a few daysand explore Israel’s most beautifulcountryside—forested mountains,rushing streams, waterfalls, andoceans of wildflowers in late winterand early spring. Among the region’streasures are ruined Roman-era syna-gogues, Crusader castles, ancientchurches, and the walled Casbah ofAkko beside the Mediterranean.There are also the warm, sparklingwaters of the Sea of Galilee to swimin from April to early November. Seechapter 9.

• Touching the Desert: These are notjust endless sandy wastes; the desertsof Israel encompass the unworldlyand ethereal Dead Sea; the mysteri-ous, abandoned Nabatean cities ofAvdat and Shivta; the hauntingfortress of Masada; canyon oases; andvast erosion craters that are geologicalencyclopedias of past eons. Theselandscapes were the crucible in whichmonotheism was born. Don’t let thedesert be just a 45-minute ride to theDead Sea on a tour bus fromJerusalem. If you can, spend the nightat the guesthouse at the base of

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Masada before you make the ascent atdawn. Camp overnight in the dra-matic Ramon Crater, or visit one ofthe inventive, idealistic Negev/AravaValley kibbutzim. See chapter 10.

• Snorkeling in the Red Sea: The RedSea, with its coral reefs, is an awe-inspiring natural aquarium. Richwith tropical marine life, it’s one ofthe best places on earth for scuba div-ing and snorkeling. At the CoralBeach Nature Reserve just south ofEilat, there’s enough to fascinateexperts, yet wonders are accessible toall levels of swimmers—dazzling fishabound even in waist-deep water.Experienced divers can scuba dive atthe Coral Island, a few miles downthe coast from Eilat, or make anexcursion into the Egyptian Sinai tothe even more extraordinary reefs offNuweiba, Dahab, and the legendaryRas Muhammad at Sharm-el-Sheik.See chapter 10.

• Sampling the Music Scene: Israelhas an oversupply of magnificent

musicians; even suburbs of Tel Avivand small cities such as Beersheva arehome to orchestras that would be theenvy of many world capitals. Youmay find the Israel PhilharmonicOrchestra performing at Tel Aviv’sMann Auditorium, or the acclaimedRishon-Le-Zion Symphony Orches-tra giving a visiting concert at theHaifa Auditorium. But also look outfor an outdoor performance of Car-men in the Valley of the Sultan’s Pool,just at the foot of the walls ofJerusalem; a night of Mozart at the2,000-year-old Roman amphitheaterbeside the sea at Caesarea; Yemenitewedding singers or Arabic oudistsperforming at free municipal concertsinside Jerusalem’s Jaffa Gate; IsraeliAfrican-American blues and jazzmusicians at clubs in Tel Aviv; or fes-tivals such as the Chamber MusicDays at Kibbutz Kfar Blum, the RedSea Jazz Festival in Eilat, or theJacob’s Ladder Folk Festival held eachsummer in the Galilee.

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2 The Most Evocative Ancient SitesPeople come to Israel to touch the past.The events that occurred here in ancienttimes and the stories and legends thatarose in Israel are firmly planted in theminds of more than a billion peoplethroughout the world.

• City of David: Now the Arab villageof Silwan (in the Bible, Siloam), thisis the oldest part of Jerusalem, locatedon a ridge that slopes downhill justsouth of the present Old City. David,Solomon, and the prophets walkedhere. By late Roman times, warfarehad advanced to the point where thisarea was too low to be easily defendedand it was left outside the walls ofJerusalem. The ancient gardens ofSiloam inspired the Song of Songs.Now an overgrown orchard of fig and

pomegranate trees, watered by thesame Gihon Spring that was used bythe prophets to anoint the kings ofJudah, the gardens still stand at thefoot of modern-day Silwan. The Cityof David is best visited on an organ-ized tour or with a guide. See p. 165.

• Northwest Shore of the Sea ofGalilee: This enchantingly lovelycorner of the lake, in many ways thebirthplace of one of the world’s greatreligions, was the landscape of Jesus’ministry. Centering on the ruins ofCapernaum (once a fishing town,and the site of St. Peter’s house), andTagba, where the multitudes were fedwith the Miracle of the Loaves and theFishes, the shoreline is dominated bythe Mount of Beatitudes. Churches

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and archaeological excavations markthe locations of New Testamentevents. See chapter 9.

• Bar’am Synagogue: In the northernGalilee, near the Lebanese border,this is the best preserved and perhapsmost beautiful of the many ruinedsynagogues of antiquity. Built in the4th century A.D., it was once the cen-terpiece of a small town in the breath-taking wooded mountains of thisnorthern region. See p. 397.

• Masada: Located on an almost inac-cessible mountaintop high above the

shores of the Dead Sea, Herod builtthis legendary palace fortress in about10 B.C. In A.D. 73, more than 75years after Herod’s death, it becamethe final stronghold of the FirstRevolt against Rome. Here the lastJews to live under their own rule(until the creation of the State ofIsrael in 1948) committed suicide onthe eve of their conquest by Romanarmies. Even without the drama ofMasada’s last stand, the site is one ofhaunting, audacious magnificence.See p. 433.

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3 The Most Important Holy PlacesThe great sacred sites all possess extraor-dinary power, mystery, and beauty, at leastpartly conveyed upon them by centuries,if not millennia, of reverence. The owner-ship and histories of Israel’s holy places areoften a matter of contention and debate,not only among the three great monothe-istic religions, but also among sects withinthese religions. These listings are in theorder in which they appear in the book.

• The Western Wall (Jerusalem): Partof a vast retaining wall built by Herodaround the Temple Mount, this is themost visible structure remaining fromthe Second Temple complex. Judaism’sgreat legacy to the world is spiritual,but the massive stones of the Wall,each with its perfectly carved border,are testimony to the physical grandeurof the ancient Jewish world. Over thecenturies, this enduring fragment ofthe Temple complex has come tosymbolize the indestructible attach-ment of the Jewish people to the landof Israel. For more than 1,000 years,under Islamic governments, the Wallwas the closest point that Jews werepermitted to approach to the placewhere the ancient Temple ofJerusalem once stood. Because of thesanctity of the Temple Mount itself,

very observant Jews do not go fartherthan the Wall to this day. See p. 159.

• Dome of the Rock (Jerusalem): Agloriously beautiful Islamic shrine,built in A.D. 691, covers the rockbelieved to have been the altar orfoundation stone of the First and Sec-ond Temples. According to Jewishtradition, the rock was the altar uponwhich Abraham prepared to sacrificeIsaac; Islamic tradition holds that itwas Abraham’s first son, Ishmael, thefather of the Arabic people, whomAbraham was called upon to sacrifice,either at this rock, or at Mecca. Therock is also believed to have beenthe point from which the ProphetMuhammad ascended to glimpseheaven during the miraculous nightjourney described in the 17th Sura ofthe Koran. See p. 160.

• Al Aqsa Mosque (Jerusalem): On thesouthernmost side of the TempleMount, built in A.D. 720, this is thethird most important Muslim placeof prayer after Mecca and Medina.See p. 162.

• Church of the Holy Sepulcher(Jerusalem): Christianity’s holiestplace, this church covers the tradi-tional sites of the crucifixion,

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entombment, and resurrection ofJesus. Built about A.D. 330, the com-plex is carefully divided among theGreek Orthodox, Roman Catholic,Armenian Orthodox, Coptic, Syrian,and Ethiopian churches. See p. 168.

• Mount of Olives (Jerusalem): Over-looking the Old City of Jerusalemfrom the east, the mount offers asweeping vista of the entire city.Here, Jesus wept at a prophetic visionof Jerusalem lying in ruins; in theGarden of Gethsemane, on the lowerslope of the mount, Jesus wasarrested; and the ridge of theMount of Olives is the place fromwhich, according to tradition, Jesusascended to heaven. An encampmentsite for Jewish pilgrims in ancienttimes, the Mount of Olives containsJudaism’s most important graveyard.See p. 196.

• Baha’i Gardens (Akko): At thenorthern edge of Akko, this site

marks the tomb of the founder andprophet of the Baha’i faith, Baha’Allah. As such, it is the holiest placefor members of the Baha’i faith. Seep. 334.

• Baha’i Shrine and Gardens (Haifa):The shrine was built to memorializethe remains of one of the Baha’i faith’smartyrs, Bab Mirza Ali Muhammad,who was executed by Persian author-ities in 1850. See p. 334.

• Mount Sinai (Sinai Peninsula,Egypt): Controversy still rages overwhich of the Sinai’s mountains is thetrue site where the Ten Command-ments were given to Moses, but thetraditional identification of MountSinai is very ancient. An isolatedByzantine monastery at the foot ofthe mountain adds to the mysteriousaura. The view from the top ofMount Sinai at dawn is among themost awe-inspiring sights you willever see. See p. 472.

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Important but (Currently) Off-Limits Sites

Two very important religious sites in Israel are set in the chaotic West Bank.At press time this is an area for which the U.S. State Department has issuedthe highest warning against visiting (and we subsequently do not reviewanything in this area inside this book). Check with the State Departmentwebsite before you head out and do not attempt to visit the following spotsunless the warning has been lifted!

The Tomb of the Patriarchs in Hebron, on the West Bank is the burialplace of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, as well as their wives, Sarah, Rebecca,and Leah (Rachel, the second wife of Jacob, is buried in Bethlehem). It’s sur-rounded by massive walls built by King Herod, and venerated by both Jewsand Muslims. Rights to this place are a point of bitter contention betweenthe Islamic and Jewish worlds.

The Church of the Nativity, in Bethlehem marks the site of Jesus’ birth-place. It is the oldest surviving church in the Holy Land; the Persians sparedit during their invasion in A.D. 614 because, according to legend, they wereimpressed by a representation of the Magi (fellow Persians) that decoratedthe building.

Tips

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T H E B E S T L O S T A N C I E N T C I T I E S 11

4 The Best Lost Ancient CitiesIsrael and neighboring Jordan are filledwith ruins of lost, ancient cities from everypart of their long histories. In Herodian-Roman times, the population of Judea andthe Galilee may have been around threemillion. Almost 2 millennia of wars, reli-gious rivalries, persecutions, and misgov-ernment drove the population down toless than half a million by the start of the19th century. Even knowledge of the loca-tion of many ancient sites was forgotten.Now dazzling physical monuments to thepast are being recovered at a rapid pace.

• Zippori (Sepphoris, near Nazareth):A cosmopolitan Jewish-Hellenisticcity, it was the capital of the Galileein Roman and Talmudic times. Espe-cially interesting because it may havebeen familiar to Jesus, Zippori’s high-lights include a colonnaded street; amosaic synagogue floor depicting thezodiac; and the beautiful mosaic por-trait of a woman dubbed “the MonaLisa of the Galilee,” recently discov-ered in a late Roman-era villa. Seep. 352.

• Caesarea (on the coast between TelAviv and Haifa): Built by Herod asthe great harbor and seaport of hiskingdom, this was the splendidadministrative capital of RomanPalestine. There are vast impressiveruins of the Roman city (includingtwo theaters), as well as of the Cru-sader-era city, made all the moreromantic by the waves lapping at theancient stones. Caesarea was animportant Byzantine Christian city,but it is not a biblical site. See p. 292.

• Megiddo (Armageddon, about 32km/20 miles southeast of Haifa): Thistown stood in the path of invadingarmies from ancient to moderntimes. It is an encyclopedia of NearEastern archaeology with more than20 levels of habitation from 5,000

B.C. to A.D. 400 having been discov-ered here. Among the newest discov-eries here are the detailed mosaicfloor of a Byzantine-era church—perhaps the earliest building specif-ically designed as a church everdiscovered. The famous ancient watertunnel of Megiddo, dug from insidethe fortified town to the source ofwater outside the walls in the 9thcentury B.C., is a miracle of ancientengineering. See p. 356.

• Korazim (Galilee): A Roman-Byzantine–era Jewish town in the hillsjust northeast of the Sea of Galilee,this is a beautiful place, with sweep-ing views of the water. Portions ofruins still stand. A black basalt syna-gogue, with beautifully carved detail-ing, and some surrounding houses,also of local black basalt, give a goodidea of what the more than 100 townsonce located in this area must havebeen like. See p. 378.

• Gamla (Golan Heights): Once asmall Roman-era Jewish city locatedon a ridge in the Golan Heights, thissite has a story chillingly similar tothat of Masada, but the number ofdead was far greater. In A.D. 67, at thebeginning of the First Jewish Rebel-lion against Rome, Gamla was over-run by Roman soldiers, and as manyas 9,000 townspeople flung them-selves from the cliff, choosing deathover subjugation. This dramatic siteis especially beautiful amid late win-ter wildflowers and waterfalls. Aruined synagogue, one of the few thatcan be dated from the Second Templeperiod, is also here. See p. 410.

• Bet Shean (Jordan Valley): This placehas been continuously inhabited forthe past 6,000 years. A vast, Roman-Byzantine city with colonnadedstreets and a theater that could house

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5,000 people once stood here,although by the 19th century, BetShean was a small village. Remnantsof earlier civilizations can be seen onthe ancient tel (Hebrew for a moundcomposed of layers of cities) abovethe Roman ruins. See p. 411.

• Petra (Jordan): One of the most dra-matic lost cities of the world, this leg-endary 2,000-year-old Nabateancapital carved from the walls of a

desert canyon is now the highlight ofexcursion tours into Jordan fromIsrael. The entire Petra experience,including the trek into the canyon,has an air of adventure and mystery—especially if you plan 1 or 2 nights (ormore) at Petra and give yourself timeto get a feel for the place early in themorning and in the evening, beforethe hordes of visitors arrive. See chap-ter 11.

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5 The Best Nature & Outdoor ExperiencesIsrael’s diverse landscapes and unusualnatural phenomena provide opportuni-ties for interesting outdoor pursuits,many of which you might never havethought of in connection with a trip here.

• Digging for a Day: Joining anarchaeological dig as a volunteerrequires a definite commitment oftime, money, and backbreaking labor.However, you can often arrange todig for a day and get a close-up lookat the hard work and thrills involvedin bringing so much of Israel’s historyto light. Contact the Israel Ministryof Tourism North American Info-Center for current options. The dig-ging season is during the dry summermonths. See p. 43.

• Hiking to Gamla: A beautiful trailthroughout the year, in late winterthis 1- to 2-hour hike in the Golantakes you past wildflowers, streams,and waterfalls. The reward at the endof the trail is the dramatic ruined cityof Gamla (see “The Best Lost AncientCities,” above). The countryside isalso dotted with prehistoric dolmensand Stone Age tombs. This walkbrings you into contact with nature,archaeology, and a very movingpiece of Israeli history. Plan addi-tional time for the return walk,although a shorter trail is also avail-able. See p. 410.

• Camel Trekking in the RamonCrater (Negev): In the Negev High-lands, near Mitzpe Ramon, this geo-logical encyclopedia can be visited ona speedy, bone-dismantling Jeep tour,or on a rather arduous hike. Or youcan experience the mysterious quietof the desert as you explore the crateraccompanied by a guide, with acamel to carry your water and equip-ment. This traditional approach totrekking can be arranged for a varietyof itineraries as well as for overnightcamping and Bedouin-style cook-outs. Travel agencies in MitzpeRamon can set it up for you at rea-sonable prices. See p. 440.

• Diving and Snorkeling the Reefs ofEilat: The Red Sea coral reefs areamong the most interesting and easilyaccessible in the world; anyone whocan swim even moderately well cansnorkel and enjoy the underwaterscene. Eilat is home to a number ofdiving schools offering short- andlonger-term programs, plus classes inunderwater photography. Once you’veseen the coral reef just off the shoresof southern Eilat, you can graduate toa dive cruise of the more extensivereefs of the Coral Island. See p. 452.

• Diving at Dahab (Sinai Peninsula):Just across the border from Eilat arethe Sinai Peninsula’s extraordinary

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reefs and clear, light-filled waters.Reefs teeming with exotic marine lifeextend all the way down the coast;perhaps the most famous is the suici-dal Blue Hole, off the town of Dahab(but not recommended by this book).At the southernmost tip of Sinai, just

beyond the resort center at Sharm-el-Sheik is the reefy paradise of theEgyptian National Park at RasMuhammad. Diving schools in Eilatand good Eilat travel agents and dis-counters can arrange diving-packageexcursions to Sinai. See p. 474.

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6 The Best BeachesIsrael’s four seas (the Mediterranean, theSea of Galilee, the Dead Sea, and theRed Sea) offer an amazing variety ofswimming experiences. The beaches ofIsrael look beautiful, but be careful aboutgoing in the water. Unusually strongriptides, whirlpools, and undertowsalong the Mediterranean coast can claimthe strongest swimmer. Never swim inunguarded areas. Along much of the coast,especially north of Tel Aviv, the beachesseem sandy, but a few steps into the surf,and you’re standing on a rocky shelf—nota good place to be when waves come crash-ing down. Pollution is also a serious prob-lem, as it is throughout the Mediterranean.Israel’s beach standards are much higherthan those of most Mediterranean coun-tries, but on many days, garbage fromother countries swirls along the coast. AtNahariya, Akko, and the Poleg NatureReserve (8km/43⁄4 miles south of Netanya),which have no sewage treatment plants, Iwould hesitate to put a toe, no less myhead, in the water. Expect beaches to belively; Israelis play compulsive paddleballon any stretch of beach they’re on, regard-less of sleeping sunbathers in the line offire. And watch out for sea urchins andstinging coral in the Red Sea, and theburning medusas (jellyfish) that attackthe Mediterranean beaches in July.

• Gordon Beach (Tel Aviv): Perhapsthe most accessible place to samplethe Mediterranean, this free munici-pal beach has showers and a friendlymix of Israelis, new Russian immi-grants, and tourists from luxury

hotels. There are nearby places to takea break for a snack or meal, the sandis passably clean, and when the tideis clear, the beach is a pleasure. Seep. 260 for more on the city’s beaches.

• Mikmoret Beach (between Netanyaand Caesarea): If you have a car, thisis a lifeguarded, slightly sheltered,out-of-the-way beach with a restau-rant, showers, and changing rooms.To the south, the beach goes onstraight for miles, good for longwalks. See p. 287.

• Aqueduct Beach (just north of Cae-sarea): An ancient Roman aqueductgives this beach its name and travel-poster ambience. There are no showersor amenities or crowds except onsummer weekends, when vendors sell drinks and snacks. Not good for swimming if the water is rough,but on calm days, as you float in the Mediterranean and gaze at theromantic ruins, you know it’s not theJersey Shore. See p. 296.

• Ein Gev Resort Village Beach (Seaof Galilee): The freshwater Sea ofGalilee is warm and cleansing, spiri-tually as well as physically. You haveto be a guest at the Ein Gev ResortVillage to be allowed to use the beachhere, but it’s the prettiest one onthe lake, with a date palm groveand thick lawns stretching down tothe water, which is relatively free offoot-stubbing rocks. Just to the southof Ein Gev are several miles ofeucalyptus-shaded beaches along the

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road (in summer there’s an NIS 14/$3 parking fee); they’re rockier under-water, but very pleasant when notcrowded with weekenders. Late after-noon often brings real breakers to theeastern shore of the lake; twilight hereis soft and magical. See p. 381.

• Ein Gedi Beach (Dead Sea): Every-one should experience swimming inthe Dead Sea, the strangest body ofwater and the lowest point on theface of the earth. The extremely highsalt content makes you feel like acork; if you float, it’s impossible tokeep much of yourself underwater.The salt and minerals in the water arebelieved to be therapeutic, but thewater will sting any cuts on your skin,and if you stay in too long, you’ll bepickled. At Ein Gedi Beach, there arefreshwater showers as well as a restau-rant. High daytime temperaturesmean that even in winter a dip maybe possible. See p. 432.

• Coral Beach Nature Reserve (Eilat):The Nature Reserve has staked out astrip of beach alongside Eilat’s bestreefs. Here you can snorkel amongdazzling fish and coral formations,and even take interesting scuba expe-ditions. Snorkeling gear is for rent,and there are showers, changing areas,and snack facilities. This beach is not

good for recreational swimming—unless you wear a face mask and footprotection, you can easily step on thequills of a sea urchin, or be cut andburned by stinging coral. See p. 452.

• Dolphin Reef Beach (Eilat): A goodchoice for everyday swimming in theRed Sea, Dolphin Reef is the mostpicturesque beach in Eilat, withthatched umbrellas, a shady gardencafeteria, and a thatched-roof, sand-floor pub/restaurant for when youwant to be out of the sun. It also hasa resident dolphin population, free tocome and go in the open sea as itlikes, and separated from the humanswimming area by a net fence. Youcan swim under supervision in thedolphin zone; or better yet, stay inthe roomy people’s zone (with asandy, nearly sea-urchin-free bottom)and enjoy watching the dolphins leapand frolic. See p. 450.

• Hilton Dahab Resort Beach (SinaiPeninsula, Egypt): If you want toreally beach out for a few days at acomfortable resort with a quiet, dis-tant, end-of-the-earth ambience, andviews of the mountains of Arabia fac-ing you across the water, this is theplace. The beach here offers goodopportunities for swimming andsnorkeling. See p. 474.

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7 The Best MuseumsIsrael’s museums are relatively new, inno-vative, and interactive. They display thediscoveries of the past, of the self, and ofnationhood that are happening so inten-sively every day in Israeli society. Themost interesting museums are those thatcould only be found in Israel.

• Israel Museum (Jerusalem): Althoughit only opened in 1965, in 4 decadesthe Israel Museum has made its placeon the world museum map. Its great-est treasures are beautifully exhibited

and include a number of the Dead SeaScrolls; a dazzling, all-encompassingcollection of archaeological finds fromIsrael; a vast treasury of world Judaicaand costumes; and excellent collec-tions of primitive, pre-Colombian,European, and modern art. There’salso an enticing Children’s Wing. Seep. 181.

• L. A. Mayer Memorial Museum ofIslamic Art (Jerusalem): An under-visited treasure, with an excellent

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collection of Islamic and MiddleEastern art, clocks, and well-chosenspecial and visiting exhibitions. Seep. 184.

• Sir Isaac and Lady Edith WolfsonMuseum (Jerusalem): Right in theheart of Jerusalem, this little-knowngem consists of a large but intimateprivate collection of Judaica from allover the world. It is exhibited on thefourth floor of Heichal Shlomo, theGreat Synagogue complex on KingGeorge Street. See p. 185.

• Yad VaShem Memorial and Holo-caust Museum (Jerusalem): Thislarge complex is a memorial to thesix million Jews killed by the Nazisduring World War II. A major focusof the complex is the new (2005)museum. Here, in ways that put ahuman face on the staggering num-bers of victims, the history of theHolocaust is traced using actual filmfootage, videos of personal interviewswith survivors, historical documents,artifacts, and with personal items—some donated by survivors andaccompanied by stories of unimagin-able heartbreak. Other parts of thecomplex include an archive that gathers and stores information aboutindividual victims, memorial struc-tures, gardens, and commemorative

installations. No visitor can leave hereunaffected. See p. 186.

• Bet Hatfutzot, The DiasporaMuseum (Tel Aviv): Not a museumin terms of displaying actual genuineartifacts, Bet Hatfutzot is rather a vastensemble of multimedia exhibits thatillustrate the histories of Jewish com-munities throughout the world. It’sfascinating, fun, and the special visit-ing exhibitions are always worth-while. See p. 257.

• Eretz Israel Museum (Tel Aviv): Thismuseum covers many aspects of theland of Israel, including its naturalhistory, flora and fauna, archaeology,folklore, and traditional crafts. High-lights include a bazaar filled withcraftspeople demonstrating such skillsfrom antiquity as glass blowing, olivepressing, weaving, and pottery mak-ing; an extraordinary collection ofancient glass; and excavations of a tel(ancient mound) located right on thegrounds of the museum. See p. 257.

• Tel Aviv Museum of Art (Tel Aviv):Notable for strong collections of Israeliand contemporary European (includ-ing Russian) art, as well as its JaglomCollection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist Art. There is a lively pro-gram of public events, performances,and special exhibitions. See p. 260.

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8 The Best Luxury HotelsThe hotel scene in Israel is presently inthe process of a change. After 6 years of atourism slump, when almost no hotelswere renovated or rooms redone, touristsare returning and with them, carpenters,plumbers, and decorators to brightenestablishments that had become wornand shabby. During the time span of thisedition, many hotels we’ve described asneeding to redecorate will probably do so.International chains have been better atkeeping up standards and have already

begun ambitious renovation programs.Although new hotel construction hasbeen at a standstill in Israel since 2000,plans for new hotels that have been onhold are ready to go forward if a quietsecurity situation continues to hold.Inside Israel, hotel rates are beginning torise in response to higher demand. InJordan and Sinai, you’ll find wonderfulnew hotels with rooms still going at bar-gain rates.

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• The King David Hotel (Jerusalem;& 02/620-8888): Built in 1930 dur-ing the British Mandate, the KingDavid has outlasted the BritishEmpire and continues to sail on,immaculate, elegant, and up-to-datein every way. The Nubian, fez-adorned lobby attendants of the1930s are no longer here, but theKing David is thick with atmosphereand ambience, and VIPs from HenryKissinger to Barbra Streisand seem topop up here. The gardened swimmingpool and views of the walls of the OldCity are a real plus. See p. 112.

• American Colony Hotel (Jerusalem;& 02/627-9777): This beautiful,atmospheric, gardened enclave was a19th-century pasha’s villa. As an inter-national meeting place between theworlds of East and West Jerusalem, itattracts journalists, writers, archaeol-ogists, and all sorts of VIPs. It’s prob-ably the most savvy, romantic spot inthe Middle East. Some of the suites,furnished with antiques and tradi-tional crafts, are as splendid as any-thing you’ll find in the region, yetprices are comparatively reasonable.The hotel’s Saturday afternoonluncheon buffet is famous through-out the country. See p. 122.

• Tel Aviv Sheraton Hotel & Towers(Tel Aviv; & 03/521-1111): Themost fun of Tel Aviv’s luxury hotels—right on the beach, but steps awayfrom the city’s restaurant and gallerydistrict—feels like an urban resort.The restaurants here are probablythe best of any hotel in the country,topped off by the inventive (andkosher!) Olive Leaf Restaurant(p. 238). Mediterranean views frommany of the guest rooms, completewith dazzling sunsets, are a plus, as isthe very efficient business center. Seep. 229.

• Tel Aviv Hilton (Tel Aviv; & 03/522-2240): With an unequaled staff,business center, and CYBEX healthclub the Hilton is the doyenne of TelAviv’s beachfront hotels. Suites andbetter-category rooms are beautifullyfurnished and decorated; the shel-tered beach offers a resort atmos-phere; and the kosher sushi bar hintsat the Hilton’s role as a center forbusiness and tourism exchangesbetween Asia and the Middle East.See p. 235.

• Dan Carmel Hotel (Haifa; & 04/830-3010): With sweeping viewsfrom its site at the top of the CarmelRange, as well as a careful staff and arelaxing, gardened pool enclave, thishotel, built in the 1960s, is regardedas Haifa’s best. The better guestrooms, with views of the bay, arebeautifully decorated and well worththe extra money. Lower-categoryrooms still have a style that recalls theEisenhower era. See p. 323.

• Sheraton’s Herods Palace Hotel(North Beach, Eilat; & 07/638-0000): Opened in 1999, this block-buster’s public areas are the mostsumptuous in Israel. With architec-tural touches echoing Middle Easterntraditions, and staff at times cos-tumed in “ancient” garb, the effectmay seem a bit Hollywoodesque, butthe gorgeous spa, the vast pool, andthe excellent service are not fantasies.The Red Sea is steps away. See p. 458.

• Four Seasons Sharm-el-Sheik(Sharm-el-Sheik, Sinai, Egypt; & 69/360-3555): This establishment is themost atmospheric and luxurious ofSinai’s many new superluxury resorts.It’s designed in a low-rise, gardenstyle that suggests a whitewashedEgyptian/North African village. TheFour Seasons offers rooms, suites,and private villas overlooking the Red

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Sea; a good snorkeling reef; diving,swimming, and snorkeling facilities;and every amenity you could want.See p. 475.

• Mövenpick Resort Petra (Petra, Jor-dan; & 962 03/215-7111): Rightat the entrance to Petra NationalPark (which makes more than oneforay into Petra each day possible)the Mövenpick is the best blend ofcontemporary and traditional Mid-dle Eastern design I’ve seen in theregion. Without being kitschy, pub-lic areas are atmospheric and excit-ing. The rooftop cafe at night is aneasy place for travelers to meet and

swap experiences under the stars; thedinner buffet is the best around. Seep. 488.

• Taybet Zaman Hotel and Resort(Petra, Jordan; & 962-03/215-0111):The stone houses and lanes of anabandoned Bedouin village in themountains above Petra (a 20-min.drive away) have been turned into therooms and suites of a charming,atmospheric, quality resort. Vistas areawesome, and each room is uniquelydecorated with Bedouin crafts. Thevillage market is a shopping arcadeand local country musicians serenadeat night. See p. 489.

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9 The Best Value HotelsThis selection of hotel choices runs fromsplurges to economy strategies; eachestablishment offers something special.

• Saint Mark’s Lutheran Guest House(Jerusalem; & 02/628-5105): Beau-tiful, atmospheric, and immaculate,with gardens above the main Arabbazaar, this is the best possible placeto stay in the Old City, and one ofthe most remarkable little hotels inthe country. See p. 106.

• Jerusalem Inn Hotel (Jerusalem;& 02/625-2757): Just a short walkfrom the Old City, and 11⁄2 blocksfrom Zion Square and the bustlingBen Yehuda and Yoel Salomon malls,this small hotel offers tidy, no-frillsdoubles with a touch of style andexcellent beds. The management con-stantly upgrades the rooms with newequipment and services, yet keeps itsrates the most reasonable in town forthis level of quality. See p. 110.

• YMCA Three Arches Hotel(Jerusalem; & 02/569-2692): Thisis in no way your average YMCA;instead, it’s a respected hotel fre-quented by savvy travelers. You get a

well-appointed double in a landmarkbuilding (designed by the same archi-tect who created New York’s EmpireState Building), right across the streetfrom the famed King David Hotel.See p. 115.

• Mount Zion Hotel (Jerusalem;& 02/568-9555): This moderatelypriced standout features lovely gar-dens; interesting architecture, aswimming pool, and dramatic vistasof the Old City, Himmom Valley,and the Mount of Olives. See p. 117.

• Saint Andrew’s Church of ScotlandGuest House (Jerusalem; & 02/673-2401): With its own gardens and vistas of the Old City, this Church ofScotland hospice is one of the mostdramatic vantage points in WestJerusalem. Rooms are simple butcomfy, and open to guests of allfaiths. Public areas are freshly reno-vated. See p. 118.

• Jerusalem Hotel (East Jerusalem;& 02/628-3282): A small place runby a well-informed, attentive family,the Jerusalem Hotel offers a pleasantgarden restaurant with live music a

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number of times a week, and a gen-eral atmosphere that makes it seemlike a very affordable version of therenowned American Colony Hotel.See p. 123.

• Hotel Cinema (Tel Aviv; & 03/520-7100): This new, amusingly inven-tive hotel, right on Dizengoff Square,is a monument to the Bauhaus andart moderne movements that are somuch a part of Tel Aviv’s heritage.Though it’s great fun and centrallylocated, the Hotel Cinema is a fewblocks from the beach, where mostof the city’s hotels are clustered. Seep. 236.

• Hotel de la Mer (Tel Aviv; & 03/510-0011): In a city with an over-supply of faceless medium-rangehotels, this new little gem, just acrossthe road from the beach, is a real find.The fresh, pleasant rooms aredesigned according to the principlesof feng shui. See p. 234.

• Scots Hotel (Tiberias; & 06/671-0710): With its 19th-century build-ings, beautiful terraces, and gardenslooking out on the Sea of Galilee, thiswell-run, moderately priced hotelseems almost like a villa on the Italiancoast. Run under the auspices of theChurch of Scotland, it welcomes visi-tors of all faiths. All rooms weretotally rebuilt in 2004, but the“antique rooms” in an older buildinghave special character. See p. 367.

• Ein Gev Resort Village (Sea ofGalilee; & 04/665-9800): The EinGev kibbutz has bungalows, caravans,and basic doubles set amid eucalyptusand date palm groves right on theshores of the Sea of Galilee. It’s a para-disiacal place to unwind and swim thewarm waters of the lake. The kibbutzruns an excellent fish restaurant a miledown the road. Book this on a kib-butz package, and the price becomesvery reasonable. See p. 381.

• Vered HaGalil Guest Farm (Galilee;& 04/693-5785): Set in the hills afew miles north of the Sea of Galilee,this intimate, family-run place beganas a simple horseback riding lodgeand over 4 decades has slowly beenturned into a small Garden of Eden.It offers a variety of rustic, charmingaccommodations and well-informed,personal attention; you don’t have tocome here for riding, but if you do,the programs are probably the best inthe country. See p. 383.

• Ruth Rimon Inn (Safed; & 04/699-4666): In a country with few reallyromantic, atmospheric hotels, thisinn, a collection of beautiful build-ings from Ottoman times, is a winnerand an example of what might bedone elsewhere in the country. A stayhere helps make the often-elusivemagic of Safed more tangible. Seep. 392.

• Masada Youth Hostel (Masada;& 08/995-3222): Right at the baseof Masada, overlooking the Dead Sea,this new, beautifully designed IsraelYouth Hostel Association establish-ment is virtually a hotel. The hostelgives you the option of overnightingin the desert and making the ascentto Masada in the cool dawn hours.See p. 436.

• Kibbutz Ein Gedi Resort Hotel(Kibbutz Ein Gedi, Dead Sea; & 08/659-4222): A wonderful alternativeto the big spa hotels along the DeadSea, Kibbutz Ein Gedi is a beautiful,internationally recognized botanicalgarden of rare plants and trees thathave been planted in a once-bleakpiece of desert over the past 45 years.There are indoor and outdoor swim-ming pools; spectacular desert vistas;archaeological sites, and free use ofthe kibbutz’s Dead Sea Spa and DeadSea beach. Look for discounts on kib-butz packages. See p. 432.

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• Isrotel Ramon Inn (Mitspe Ramon;& 08/658-8822): This efficient,comfortable hotel close to the won-ders of the Ramon Crater opens upthe interior of the Negev to travelerswho do not want to stay in rudimen-tary accommodations. The staff willconnect you to all kinds of hiking,biking and nature activities; and theindoor swimming pool and outstand-ing, home-style buffet are nice tocome home to after a day exploringthe desert. See p. 441.

• Three Arava Valley Kibbutzim:Lotan, Yahel, and Ketura (AravaValley): Half an hour north of Eilat,these kibbutzim, founded largely byNorth Americans, are known fororganic farming, and inventive recy-cling projects. They offer wonderfulprograms in desert touring and ecol-ogy, a blanket of stars at night, simpleaccommodations, and deliciousmeals. Each in its way is a paradise,and a chance for travelers to experi-ence the vision and idealism at theheart of Israel’s rebirth. See p. 444.

• Isrotel Riviera Club (Eilat; & 08/630-3666): A block from the beach,this informal hotel has units that canaccommodate two to four people,and are equipped with kitchenettes,TVs, and other useful amenities.Although not a kibbutz guest house,a room here can be booked as part ofthe Kibbutz Guest House 7-NightPackage Plan, making this the mostaffordable way to have nonscruffyaccommodations in costly Eilat. Seep. 460.

• Sanafir Tourist Village (Sharm-el-Sheik, Sinai; 069/360-0197): Withan inventive architectural design thatdraws on traditional Middle Easternkhans, or travelers’ inns, Sanafir is alively place where it’s easy to meet fel-low travelers, and an affordable alter-native to the big package resortvillages of Na’ama Bay. It’s a fewblocks from the beach, but it hascharm, comfort, and maintainssomething of the spirit of exoticadventure that was once part of a tripto Sharm-el-Sheik. See p. 476.

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10 The Best Luxury DiningUntil the 1980s, it was almost consideredanti-Zionist to spend money and efforton gourmet cuisine. Israel was a practical,egalitarian society, and good, healthfulfresh food was all that was necessary tocreate a sturdy population. But peoplecannot live by falafel alone, and Israel hasdeveloped a group of truly fine, personalrestaurants, many rooted in French tradi-tion, but also exploring the cuisine tradi-tions of the Mediterranean Rim.

• Darna (Jerusalem): Craftsmen andinterior designers from Morocco werebrought to Jerusalem to create thisauthentic, atmospheric glatt kosherrestaurant that celebrates the tradi-tions of Israel’s large Moroccan Jew-ish population. The fine Moroccan

cuisine matches the graceful serviceand ambience. Totally wonderful. Seep. 129.

• Canela (Jerusalem): A chic, carefullydesigned, contemporary setting; apianist at a white grand piano (Monnights); and pampering service thatincludes valet parking, are touchesthat help make this the best of thecity’s new crop of top-drawer kosherrestaurants. The menu is continentaland strong on meat; prices are notnearly as exorbitant as at the compe-tition. See p. 137.

• Arcadia (Jerusalem): Jerusalem’s mostsublime French and Mediterraneanrestaurant offers a charming, uniquesetting and an ever-changing menu

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that’s elegant and inventive withoutbeing pretentious or glitzy. See p. 140.

• American Colony Hotel ArabesqueRestaurant (Jerusalem): The Satur-day luncheon buffet in the ArabesqueRestaurant is a Jerusalem tradition,with a romanticized atmosphere aswell as a vast, all-you-can-eat buffetof excellent Middle Eastern and Con-tinental choices. Sadly, this treat isonly for lunch, and only a once-a-week affair. See p. 149.

• Olive Leaf (Tel Aviv): With an inven-tive menu of nouvelle cuisine that’sactually hearty, filling, and preparedwithin the rules of kashrut, plus aview of the Mediterranean, this is thebest hotel restaurant in Tel Aviv (inthe Sheraton Hotel and Towers), andone of the three best kosher choicesin Israel. The decor, like the menu, iselegant without being phony or glitzy.Great luncheon deals. See p. 238.

• Rafael (Tel Aviv): A beautiful, con-temporary space beside the DanHotel, with great vistas of the sea, thisis the best nonkosher upper-bracketdining choice in the beachside hoteldistrict. Chef Rafi Cohen’s take onmodern French cuisine with a rustictouch gets high marks from criticsand customers alike. See p. 238.

• Mika (Tel Aviv): This is Israeli Fusioncuisine, served in a New York SoHo-like setting and done with style that issometimes exquisitely delicate, some-times delightfully audacious. It’saging, but remains a landmark on theIsraeli restaurant scene. Lunch spe-cials are a bargain. See p. 242.

• Carmela Be Nachala (Tel Aviv): Setin an antique, veranda-laden buildingthat might have been transported fromthe 19th-century American South,this is a top choice for charm, ambi-ence, and an ever-changing, inventivemenu in the French/Mediterranean

tradition. Half-portions are encour-aged so you can sample more of themenu. See p. 242.

• Orca (Tel Aviv): Chef Eran Shroit-man serves a constantly changingmenu that’s the toast of Tel Aviv,amid a marvelous 1930s art modernesetting. The downstairs bar is amongthe most chic in town (with amazingtapas); the restaurant’s food is filling,delicious, and fascinating. See p. 243.

• Cordelia (Jaffa): Located in an eclec-tic and candlelit romantic Jaffa build-ing, Cordelia is an example of food astheater, and like nothing else inIsrael. Chef Nir Zook’s ever-changingmenu is designed to surprise, amaze,shock, and usually please. See p. 254.

• Mul Yam (Tel Aviv): The seafoodhere is the freshest and most exotic inIsrael, jetted in from all over theworld, expertly prepared, and servedin a comfortable, informal setting.Israelis love it. See p. 251.

• Yoe’ezer Wine Bar (Jaffa): Set insidethe cavernous arches of a Crusader-erabuilding, this is a gourmand’s para-dise created by noted Israeli journalistand food writer Shaul Evron. Here, atyour leisure, you can sample from anElysian collection of European andIsraeli wines, accompanied by won-derful breads and cheeses, or feast ona select menu of classic, richly pre-pared Continental cuisine. See p. 254.

• Picciotto (Zichron Yaacov): Namedfor its founder and former chef, anex-fighter pilot who has moved on tothe world of computers, this is adelightful Mediterranean restaurantset in a 19th-century cottage. It’s notcheap, but by Israeli standards is avery good value. See p. 300.

• Uri Buri (Akko): Chef/owner UriYirmias is a man who knows where toget top quality fish and seafood andhow to prepare it, and who loves to

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see customers enjoying his dishes.Seaside sunsets and the ambience ofOld Akko are extra pluses of thisquality, informal place. See p. 310.

• 1872 Hashmura Restaurant (Haifa):Named for the year in which thequaint stone mansion it occupies wasbuilt, this rustic French restaurant,strong on meat dishes, is an atmos-pheric choice for a special night out.It’s also surprisingly affordable. See p. 331.

• Decks (Tiberias): With a setting thatfloats on the surface of the Sea ofGalilee like a Fellini dream, Decksoffers luxurious meats expertly grilledover olive and citrus wood fires. As an

extra, you get a complimentary post-dinner disco cruise. A great kosherchoice for a memorable evening! Seep. 370.

• Jolson and Lawrence Restaurants(Eilat): These two separate luxuryrestaurants in the Sheraton’s HerodsPalace Hotel complex, each have amenu designed by talented ChefRonen Dovrat Bloch. Jolson (p. 465)is nonkosher Mediterranean in styleand located just outside the hotel;Lawrence (p. 465) is located inthe Vitalis Spa wing of HerodsPalace, and serves an elegant, health-conscious, kosher menu of beautifullypresented fish and vegetarian dishes.

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11 The Best Moderate DiningIsrael is filled with interesting, affordablerestaurants ranging from authentic ethnicto natural Mediterranean, and fromkosher Indian or kosher Mexican to grace-fully inventive French. In order to beaccessible to kosher diners, many Israelirestaurants offer vegetarian-only menusthat are imaginative and affordable. Thefollowing is a selection of unusual choicesfor atmosphere, good food, and goodvalue, but you’ll find many other fabulousrestaurants listed throughout this book.

• Chakra (Jerusalem): The decor hereis inventive eclectic, and so is thecuisine—unique dishes created by achef who loves spices and cooks hisheart out, creating new tastes andmixing influences from all over theworld. Besides the standard menu,there’s a nightly tour de force of adozen specials. See p. 138.

• The Village Green (Jerusalem): Thisinexpensive vegetarian cafeteria righton Zion Square is virtually a publicservice, and the best place in town fora healthy, hefty, fast meal. Lasagna,veggie pies, tasty soups, and salads by

weight top the menu at this kosherL’Mehadrin restaurant. See p. 134.

• Tsacho in the Market (Jerusalem):Deep in the Iraqi (western) section ofJerusalem’s great Machane YehudaFood Market, Tsacho’s is a top-qual-ity kosher Mediterranean bistro witha menu based on the freshest meatsand vegetables to be found in the vastmarket. There’s quality and expertisein every dish. See p. 141.

• Spaghettim (Jerusalem): This fabu-lous restaurant offers a vast array ofspaghettis in fantastic sauces loadedwith fresh ingredients. The Jerusalembranch, set in an old Ottoman-eramansion with a delightful dining gar-den, is an especially romantic loca-tion, but there’s also a branch in TelAviv. See p. 134 and p. 244.

• Cacao at the Cinémathèque (Jeru-salem): The view of the Old Citywalls from the terrace here is breath-taking, the crowd is intelligent andstylish, and the menu is very afford-able. Salads, peasant sandwiches, anda good, reasonably priced pasta and

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fish menu are offered. In coldweather, the indoor dining room canbe smoky, but in good weather, ameal or dessert on the terrace is amust. See p. 148.

• Kohinoor (Jerusalem): This kosherIndian restaurant provides a rareopportunity for kosher visitors tosample well-prepared Indian cuisine.The all-you-can-eat luncheon buffetsare very affordable. The nonkosherTandoori restaurants (Tel Aviv, Eilat,and Herzlia) of the same chain areequally excellent, elegant, and a goodvalue. See p. 146.

• Manta Ray (Tel Aviv): On an emptystretch of beach between Tel Aviv andJaffa, this beach pavilion is open tothe sea, the sound of the waves, andthe Mediterranean sunset. It servesgreat medleys of tapas, stylishly pre-pared fish and seafood, and is a goodchoice for breakfast or leisurelylunches and dinners. See p. 253.

• Margaret Tayar’s (Jaffa): This is asmall, authentic place a short walkfrom trendy Old Jaffa, with a coveredterrace overlooking the sweeping TelAviv shoreline, and a master cookwho loves to see people enjoyingher creations. Jaffa’s fishers adoreMargaret—she gets first choice of thecatch. This is a one-woman tour deforce whose hefty, unforced dishes(including exquisitely grilled fish)have been lionized in Gourmet.Always call to confirm hours. One ofthe very best restaurants in the coun-try at any price. See p. 254.

• Erez (Herzlia): Erez Komarovsky hascreated a one-man world of contem-porary Israeli cuisine served in a func-tional but bright, imaginative space.The entire concept draws on Israelitraditions of brashness, pragmatism,and a touch of poetry. It’s alwaysexciting and blessed with heavenlybreads, and prices here are moderate,which makes the taxi ride up from TelAviv a worthwhile investment. Seep. 283.

• Abu Christo (Old Akko): Fresh fishand a covered dining terrace rightbeside the sea give this restaurant adelightful Greek Island harborsideambience. You can put together afeast here, complete with MiddleEastern appetizers, for the price ofa single main course elsewhere. Seep. 309.

• Ramon Inn Restaurant (MitspeRamon, Negev): This hotel restau-rant serves the best food to be foundfrom the Dead Sea to the outskirts ofEilat. The evening buffet (get there at7pm) is filled with gently ethnic,home-style offerings. The largebreakfast buffet, open to outsiders,offers exotic jams, and fluffy, gourmetpita made less than a minute beforeit’s on your plate. See p. 442.

• Eddie’s Hideaway (Eilat): In atourist town at the end of the earth,where most restaurants plan for cus-tomers they’ll never see again, Eddieputs his heart into every meal andkeeps coming up with Continentalmenus that are delicious and inven-tive. See p. 464.

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