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JennyKu
FashionHistoryII
ProfessorWhitley
May3,2012
AlexanderMcQueen
AlexanderMcQueen’sdesignshavealwaysbeencaptivating,innovativeandoverthe
topoftenmakingastatementwithhisshows.Priortohisdeathin2010,LeeAlexander
McQueenwashailedasonethebestdesignerswithaflairfortheatricsand
intricatedetails.
McQueen’s2009Spring/SummerandFall/Wintercollection
featuresanarrayofsilhouettes,designs,andprints.Inthiscollection,many
piecesfeaturedalotofanimalprintsandplayedwithtexture.The
silhouettesfeaturedamixofhourglassfiguresandstraightlines.The
hourglasssilhouetteisveryreminiscentofthehourglassfiguresforwomen
duringthe1860s,wherethewaistissmallandthedressflaresoutabout
thehip.Thisdesign,asshownontherightalsofeaturesaminicrinithatis
similartothatofVivienneWestwood’sinthe80s,amoremodernversion
oftheearly19thcenturyhoopskirts.Othersilhouettesincludedintheshow
werestraightmoremodernlike,verynostalgicofthefemininedefined
waistlinesilhouettesofthe1930sandpaireddown.Otherhistorical
elementsfeaturedinthecollectionincludebustlesfromthe19thcentury,
shoulderpadsfromthe1980sandtightslinkydresses.
1HourglassSilhouettewithminicrini
2StraighterSilhouette
3GetaShoes2010Fall/WinterCollection
4ChanelInspiredsuit
5Hobbleskirt
ForMcQueen’sFall/Wintercollection,hedrew
inspirationfromthedesignersofthe1950ssuchasChristian
Dioraswellasthe1920slikeCocoChanel.Inthiscollection,
McQueen’sdesignsfeaturedthehoundstoothpatternandvery
slimfemininesilhouettes.Insomeofhisoutfitsareshoesthat
looksimilartoVivienneWestwood’smockcrocplatforms.These
shoes,calledgetaarepicturedontheleft.Inthiscollection,
McQueenchanneledChanelinsomeofhissuits.Usingtweed
materialinspiredfromChanelsuits,McQueenmadeithisownwithasmallerwaistand
flaringatthehem.NotonlydidMcQueengetinspirationfromlegendarydesignersbuthe
alsoincorporatedtrendsinthe1800s.Inonepiece,McQueencreatedadressthat
incorporatedthehobbleskirt.Thishobbleskirtdress,picturedbelow,showsthetight
wrappingaroundthelegs.
Inthisspring/summercollection,thispiecefeaturedabustleat
theback.Thisfirstbustleappearedinthelate1700sinjacketsand
laterinthe1860sindressesandMcQueenchanneleditbutmade
itmodernwiththeprintandincorporatingthebustletomakeit
looklikewings.Thesilhouetteisverystraightandshouldersare
mildlyrounded.Inaddition,thereisahighcollarthatcoversthe
wholeneckandissimilartocravatsinthe18thcentury.
Thissilverdressalsofromthespring/summercollection,thereare
elementsfromthe19thcenturywiththetinywaistandhourglass
figure.Theillusionofthisdressmakethewaistlineevensmaller.In
away,theillusioncreatesanSbendcurvethatwascommoninthe
early1900s.Thisdressalsoincludespaddedstraightshoulderpads
thatincorporatesthestylesduringthe40sand80s.Thestraight‐
lineshoulderisreminiscentoftheshoulderpadsoftheutilitysuits
andthepaddingissimilartothe80swhenbigshoulderswerein.
McQueenchannelsChristianDior’sbarsuitandthe“newlook”inhis
fall/wintercollection.Thesimilaritiesincluderoundedshoulders,
tinywaistandhourglassfigure.Thenewlookwasfirstintroducedin
the50safterthewarandwasmorefemininethanthatof40s
fashion.Tomakethishis,McQueenincorporatesthehoundstooth
patternandthesuithasmoreofatailoredfitthanDior’sBarsuit.
ThissuitalsoincorporatesmorefabricthanDior’ssuitinthe50s.
5,6,7McQueenDesigns
Bibliography
1. http://www.hellomagazine.com/fashion/designers/paris_spr‐sum2009/images/disenadores/mcqueen/alexander‐mcqueen049a.jpg
2. http://images.nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/2009/spring/main/europe/womenrunway/alexandermcqueen/images/2.jpg
3. Knox,Kristin.AlexanderMcQueen:geniusofageneration.London:A&CBlack,2010.Print.
4. http://media.fashionmagazine.com/images/sept09tweed1_250.jpg
5. Knox,Kristin.AlexanderMcQueen:geniusofageneration.London:A&CBlack,2010.Print.
6. Knox,Kristin.AlexanderMcQueen:geniusofageneration.London:A&CBlack,2010.Print.
7. Knox,Kristin.AlexanderMcQueen:geniusofageneration.London:A&CBlack,2010.Print.